I'm a retired, ASE certified tech. and I have done my share of instruction. I know a lot but definitely not everything and your videos are informative, clearly presented, articulate and not full of meaningless chatter taking up the time that should go to instruction. It's really a relief and refreshing compared to the majority of videos I find here. Thanks! 😊
@@ReignitedAuto You're very welcome 🙏 I have a '23 Scat Pack ➕️ Shaker edition with 6spd and all the upgrades you can stuff in a standard body. 😀 I'm chewing away at it but the big stuff will wait until the warranty is out. 😆
I'm at 200k. Stock. Stopped mobile oil at 100k. Went to Valvoline high mileage. No issues so far. Cai, shorties on back. Due to ex manifold bolt issues. Soon will be cam, intake, etc.
Just as a heads up, I have wrenched on car since 1964. I currently, because I am retired, I do a side job of security and one of my security positions I am at an auto parts store. I recently started taking some of the lifters that they sell, these are as melling lifters. When I checked them, by taking them out and rolling them along my wrist or even along a smooth portion of the counter, I find several that the bearings do not roll consistently. They are skidding along the countertop. That is concerning to say the least. Make sure that you check the bearings on new lifters when you install them. It is worth every turn of the wrench that you save later.
Sky, I am here in Jan. 2025 to review before I install a cam into a spare engine to replace the 5.7l in my 2012 Challenger. I always enjoyed your vids, full of knowledge, nothing fancy and easy to relate. Hope you make more, if only to document your personal projects, I for one like to see them!
If you watched Uncle Tony's Garage, then you should have seen him demonstrate that the lack of oil splash was not the only issue, but the angle of the lifter which is almost horizontal rather than the standard vertical that most lifters are, which will allow any oil dripping from the lifter to fall down on the rollers, but the way that these bores are almost horizontal keep that from happening. I agree with Tony, that there c are several issues, and that the horizontal angle is causing alot of the issues as well as that bore tube that runs down the center blocking the splash that you would normally get from the crankshaft is also an issue that is causing these rollers to fail prematurely. I would love to know what changes were made in the design or material after 2009 that caused this issue to be so much more prevalent.
Thanks for your hemi videos. Didn't have 3500 to get my car fixed so I watched u and did myself. Got my whole engine broke down and lifters and cam out. I'm not a mechanic but if you show me I can achieve 💯
My son and I followed your videos. Outstanding tips and instructions allowed us to easily replace a damaged cam and lift on a 5.7 hemi. Best instructional videos on UA-cam!
It took a while before I could get time to myself to watch this episode...did not want to miss it and I'm glad I didn't. So much detailed info and best practice in here its AMazing. Thank you for taking the time and effort to thoroughly put this together.
Got to 194K miles in my 2011 R/T when I got P1524 followed by a couple of P30 misfire codes. Took it to Meineke and they told me it’s my cam and lifters and to replace the whole engine. This video series gives me hope to just fix it myself while also upgrading my cam anyway.
I’m at 76,039 miles on my MINT 2011 grand Cherokee. 2nd owner of the vehicle. Everything is super clean. BUT, I have a tapping noise at idle and drive and know it’s the dreaded cam and lifter. This video series is so so amazing.
Keep up the amazing work. To have this information on UA-cam is great for new technicians like me . Thank you for working with the engine in the vehicle
My RT Plus Shaker with Tremec manual tranny has 30 K on it, still running strong. This is a great series you are doing here, very informative for the Mopar brotherhood....
I did the SRT headers on my 05 magnum rt and it freed up so much power! I had a lifter start to fail after 170000 miles after cam install and raced for years.I put SRT lifters to eliminate MDS and never looked back.You will so happy with a bigger cam.Good luck and have fun
@@carlosdelrio7593 the only thing I had to do was on the passenger side I put a groove in the flange for the EGR . There is a round hole in the head.and all have to do also use the SRT manifold bolts to bolt it up. I used the factory SRT Cat pipes cause 5.7 uses 2.25in and SRT uses 2.75-3in pipes and frees up HUGE
Amazing. Friend of mine got all this done to his camaro and spent close to 9k I’m definitely gonna do it myself. Your vids are very informative. Glad to be apart of your channel
Getting ready to do this job on my '15 300S. I know this video's a year old, but the information is invaluable. Thanks for taking the time to do it. Subscribed.
I just bought a 2022 Ram 1500 with 44,500 miles on it. The 5.7 Hemi had a fairly loud cold start lifter tick lasting about 3 seconds until it filled with oil. I changed the oil, put a quality filter on, and added a half quart of Marvel Mystery oil. Cold start tick is now gone. You get lucky some times.
I own a 2004 ram 5.7 with over 200k miles and just did a round trip from Illinois to Mexico I decided to change all gaskets and being there I check the lifters and they’re actually pretty good.
im a DIY wanna be mechanic, im currently doing my cousins RT, its pretty staright forward but oh man watching your two videos of removal and install makes it even easier, thansk for all the excellent information 😎
Definitely got more info from you on this then any other channel getting ready to do a mds repair/delete and learned so much here gonna make it a lot smoother I believe!
Great tip on the valve cover seal. I rolled the back corner on mines and had to take them off 2 times before I got it on without it leaking...😁 Enjoying the videos, keep up the great work!👌
Thank you for this video, it help very much during my rebuild. I’ve done the exact job you did and I only used stock one parts from dealer. I’m having problems with the valves saying open and hitting the piston after rebuild. Valve timing is perfect and I’m stumped. Thanks
Well to be honest one of those statements can't be true, either the timing is correct, or the valve are hitting, can't be both. I'd be pulling the cover back off to verify the timing marks. 👍
@@ReignitedAuto Thanks for the reply, I’ve double checked timing (mark at 12 and 1st cylinder at TDC) and it’s still perfect. I’ve also had my heads re-machined with new valves. Is it possible that the new lifters aren’t compressing?
@@matthewcecil9404 also, as a secondary option, remove the valve covers and check the pushrod ends to make sure they are seated properly in the rocker arms and aren't hanging the valve open when they should be fully closed 👍
@@ReignitedAuto Verifying the timing with the cam gear mark at 12 o’clock and 1st cylinder at TDC. Thanks for the tips I’m going to go back threw everything and double check the rocker arms. I’ll give you an update on what I find.
my name is Eric Horr i live in south western pa and own a 2005 chrysler 300. i bought it last year with 59000 miles on it. it currently has around 72000 now. i genuinly enjoy your videos . they are super informative. im wanting to put long tube headers and upgraded cam and lifters. I would love to hear your opinion and see if you have a video on long tube headers install. thank you again for your amazing videos.
This guy is spot on, couldn't explain it better myself. As far as the passenger side valve cover, yes I've been there also, there is an engine ground that runs directly behind it that runs up near the strut tower I undo, makes install a bit easier
Once again, a great video. I'll comment on things I did wrong and perhaps some other tips that might be good or bad -- I'm definitely not as skilled as you. I put loctite on the cam bolt and on the lifter "cartridge" bolts. I just used blue loctite. When I replaced my springs, the first time around, I had my shop press them on because I screwed up and dragged the head on the dowel pins. But, I wanted to take a few off to check something, so I tried two different methods. One is to place a rag under the valve, put the head down over the rag, then take a large socket that completely fits over the spring retainer, and give it a few good whacks with a hammer. When you do that, the keepers fall (I should say fly) out. But Autozone does have a screw style spring compressor. Some say it doesn't work with the hemi, but I got it to work fine with mine. Much better and less violent way to get the keepers off. One of the mistakes I made when reassembling the valvetrain was that I actually put a pushrod into the cylinder head drain hole. Thankfully, it was the exhaust lifter and wasn't able to fall all the way into the oil pan, but I still did need to use a magnet to pull it back out. It seems like a silly thing to do, but in the ram, it's hard to work from the side and be "level" with the cylinder head like on the challenger. When putting the rockers back on, I found that it was easiest for me to figure out which pushrod was going to be the tallest, then set that in the rocker and ever so slightly tighten the bolt near it. then move on to the next highest and so on. If I didn't do that, inevitably when working trying to get all four lined up, one of them would fall out of the rocker cup. Then when they were all in, I would tighten everything down a little bit, but not all the way, and then run my finger on the rocker arms. It is a relatively small difference, but if the pushrod is in there right, the rod will feel kind of "far" away from the tip of the rocker arm. If it's real close to the tip, then it's not seated right. On the Ram, the drivers side valve cover is particularly difficult to avoid the gasket rolling out like you said. You're fighting between the cowl, the transmission breather, fuel lines, evap lines, and a brake booster. In my case, I had to fight with it to get over the last rocker, but then once I got it over, I was able to pull it up slightly -- enough for me to get my finger under the cover and feel that the gasket was in fact rolled over. Using my finger, I was able to press it back into place before tightening everything down. Oh and one other thing I did, since I screwed up my heads when I took them off, I ordered an extra set of head bolts (I thought I couldn't re-use them). In any case, I took two of the old bolts, cut the heads off real close (e.g. keep them as long as possible) and then I took a grinding wheel and gave them a dullish/blunt/rounded point (e.g. like the end of a pushrod). I screwed the old two bolts one or two revolutions into the top front and back holes (The dowel pin ones) and then when I put the head back on, all I had to do was line up the two bolts, and slide the head down on those bolts. The bolts that you cut down don't stick out very far because you cut them off, so you might need to use a magnet or needle-nose pliers to unscrew them when the head is in -- but that's why I only twisted them in one revolution or so. So although you can re-use the bolts, perhaps buy two new ones and sacrifice two old ones to make the "alignment pins" LOL. Both of those heads you put on went amazingly well, but for me only doing it once, there is no way it would have went on that well LOL.
Thanks Tucker! "One of the mistakes I made when reassembling the valvetrain was that I actually put a pushrod into the cylinder head drain hole" Super common, don't feel bad about it, I've seen lots of techs do this! When putting the rockers back on, I found that it was easiest for me to figure out which pushrod was going to be the tallest, then set that in the rocker and ever so slightly tighten the bolt near it. then move on to the next highest and so on. If I didn't do that, inevitably when working trying to get all four lined up, one of them would fall out of the rocker cup. Then when they were all in, I would tighten everything down a little bit, but not all the way, and then run my finger on the rocker arms" This is exactly the way I do it as well 👍 Also, Blue loctite is never a bad idea.
Tip to keep pushrods in place when tightening down the rocker arms. Get some fuel/oil rubber hose that snugly fits the pushrods on the ID and cut 3/4" pieces then slice them open. Slide them over the pushrods and snug the pushrods up to the rocker arms. They will keep the pushrods from dropping and will keep enough tension to hold them into the rocker arms. Once all tightened down you pull them off (that's where the slicing them open comes into play.)
Thank you for this great series - it has given me the confidence to try this job at home, to fix a stuck lifter. Unfortunately, I’m finding myself worried about the condition of the heads, and their ability to seal properly at the head gasket. I scraped off any old material with a plastic scraper and gasket remover and cleaned them up as best as I can but I see a lot of people using abrasive wheels, which I didn’t do, and others saying heads need to be machined and resurfaced or an OEM MLS gasket won’t seal. I’ve read aftermarket head gaskets are a little more forgiving in this regard, since the OEM gasket is generally fit to brand new components. You didn’t really touch on this subject in the series, and I’m wondering if I’m overthinking things.
Interesting that you post this now, since I'm literally filming a segment tomorrow speaking about this exact thing! In short, yes you're probably overthinking it a bit. I use a red (medium) coarse roloc disc on a 90 degree sanding wheel to clean the gasket residue from the surface of the heads. Don't sand at an angle, keep the disc flat to the surface, also don't put pressure on the disc, you're just looking to remove the excess gasket material, not take off the top layer of aluminum. The discs are much less aggressive than you think they are, this is what they are designed to do. Literally all you need to do is get rid of the gasket material from the previous head gaskets, you don't need to remove every mark from the head gasket surface. You also do not need to resurface the heads if you haven't had any issues with overheating or suspect the engine has been overheated at some point. As far as aftermarket head gaskets being more forgiving than OEM ones, it's actually the other way around. OEM head gaskets are far more preferable in my opinion. Love the fact that you've tackled this yourself, shows the channel is doing what I meant for it to do. 💪
@@ReignitedAuto Thanks, I feel a whole lot better! Yeah, so far following your videos has made this an absolute SNAP. The only snag has been drilling out one of the studs on the exhaust flange that broke off. I'm hoping I can just put through a nice grade 8 bolt and a nut and that will suffice. So this is an 09 Charger I bought out of state back in June. 75,000 miles, and it made the trip back home just fine. BUT as soon as I got it home (200 mi drive...) I shut off the car and when I next started it, I took off and got a misfire right away. That's when I noticed the ticking. I took it right in to a mechanic (dealer) and they diagnosed a collapsed lifter, as I feared. They were going to charge $7,000! I actually said 'ok', but they sat on the car from June until last week. When I found your videos, I said "I can do this..." and I towed it home. So far so good. So yes, your channel is fantastic. I've always worked on my own car, but I never thought I'd take on something like this.
If and when I do not looking forward as my 5.7 is in a Ram 2500 4x4 stock height , wanting to do long tube ARH at same time, thinking about doing this 6.4 cam , do you think the advantages are there and did you say you can leave mds active Thanks for the video
Great explanation and timing for doing this, you found a problem before it got worse. Is oil degradation one of the factors that can cause this type of wear on the lifters and cam...If so, will changing the oil before the specified time help?
Absolutely oil degradation is a huge factor in premature lifter failures. I'm a firm believer in oil changes every 3k miles. I know the newer synthetics give a longer interval than that, but better safe than sorry in my opinion.
I’m looking to put new lifters in my new (to me) ‘14 pursuit charger. These videos are of super quality. Only videos so far to help get such a great understanding of this job. Hoping that the ‘ask a question’ tab on your website is working. If I can get this job done, I’m definitely buying a t-shirt.
try putting those valve covers off right after painting and trying not to nick it on anything 😂 i most definitely rolled the gasket on that corner you said! had to take off repaint and new gasket 🙄😂
I did SRT headers on my 10 Challenger. I had previously installed a Corsa Spirt cat-back system. I also installed 6.1 mid-pipes. But, I had the pipes moded to fit OVER the smaller 5.7 pipes.
You can call MMX to see if they still have them. I got mine from them with Stainless Works 3in mid pipes for $450. I can't wind them on their sight anymore.
Great information!! My 2012 Ram Hemi had cam/lifter failure at 190K miles. The lifter was not on one of the MDS cylinders but appears to be a camshaft hardening issue because I had the same putting on six of the lives and one that was noisy that had worn into the lobe. Bought complete MDS delete kit with Mopar replacement cam and lifters. Hope this cam is better but 190K is not too bad but have gotten 300K out of GM 5.3’s. Still love my Hemi!!
Great videos. Thanks for sharing! Was told by a local [arts manager that the camshaft for a 5.7L is fairly soft material. And that they were roughly $65 for a 5.7 cam shaft! BUT.... you'll need 2 sets of lifter assemblies and those are about $475 EACH SET??!! So, not including labor costs, this isn't a cheap, budget job by any means. But I will say again, THANKS for sharing this info. Besides the parts prices being typical Mopar costs, I would do this at home and save the money from labor, since it IS very doable with hand tools and this knowledge.
Appreciate you watching Daniel. Yea Mopar parts pricing is crazy, the super cheap camshaft is a side effect of Chysler having to replace so many of them under warranty. By law they have to pay the dealer a markup cost for the parts used during warranty repairs, so if they price the part super cheap they pay less markup 😂. All part of the game.
My 2015 manual 5.7 started ticking at around 70k... I think it's a bit premature, especially considering the need to pull the heads to fix it. Thanks for the video on the process, though!
Love the channel and love the information. I’m intending on doing many of these mods. With a couple of changes. 1. My state allows full length headers and I’ll opt for those with the high flow cats as well 2. Will be adding the 392 intake with the matching cam you just installed.
A lot of people have had a lot of success with Redline oil, it's high moly and zinc content have quited everybodies hemi valve train noise almost completely, so it stands too reason that in one way or another, it's lubricating better than your typical off the shelf oils and should mostly if not entirely alleviate these lifter failures. It's definitely expensive -- like double the price of Mobil 1, and you have too order it online, but it's still cheaper than a whole new valve train
Best bang for your buck Pennzoil Platinum unless you like to throw money away for no better performance. Most folks who spend too much on oil come up with all kinds of things to justify it. There's been all kinds of testing on additive packages, lubrication levels, viscosity, dilution resistance etc and they have not shown the benefits some expensive oils claim.
@@DL101ca I really don't go by tests, I go by how many people have used it and can prove it worked. HEMI's are known for a lot of valve train noise, which is normal in these engines, and literally every single person who tried Redline says it quietted the valve train noise almost completely, myself included. The only logical reason it would do that is improved lubrication one way or another. I'll stick with it. There's hundreds This fucking cop ran code for a whole nother fucking hour at well over 100mph, he risked everyone else's life, chasing someone he will never catch. There's hundreds, if not thousands of forum posts about exactly this.
I’ve done this SRT manifold sway on my 5.7 and the motor mount heat shield studs interfere with the header. The need to be trimmed. Check before you put the head bolts in!
Weirdly some of the Chrysler vehicles have that stud like you mentioned, and some install the heat shield with a bolt. I haven't figured out why they use one or the other.
I have a 2015 SRT392 I bought new that had three lifters fail at around 23K - none were on MDS cylinders. All 16 were replaced under warranty with updated parts (which came out in 2016).
@@ReignitedAuto The one thing I didn't find out is what they changed about them in 2016. Would be interesting to know. I also wonder if my cam was really"OK" like they claimed..
he looks like Steve from Jerry Springer lol 😂 but all jokes aside I can say this for everyone thank you for theses detailed videos I hope your following grows fast because you deserve it
😂 That's the second time I've gotten that one, I need to look him up and see what he looks like. That being said, I do have a very generic white guy look 😂
Great video! Love the detail... you gave me confidence to do the lifters, cam swap, and mds delete.. Wish I would have spend a bit more time on the pushrod.. definitely think I have that issue
I'm just commenting for the UA-cam engagement algorithm again Sky. I don't know if more typed out is better or not, but I'm gonna write out a bunch of words just in case.
I picked up a good quality Lang spring compressor from Summit Racing for $76.84 including tax, S/H. I live in Ohio so I had it in 2 days. There was another one like it, that reviews said to stay away from. Review said the Lang was the brand to get.
Great video!! I love all the tips and details. I can't wait to do the same on my 300C. Thanks, Sky! I learned a lot, especially about the lifters ! I am curious. I watched the video on the hellcat oil pump project. Why did you not put one in this upgrade?
Hey man! Sorry for the abundance of questions, but I have the rocker arms and pushrods in and everything is seemingly good. But I have a lot of air sound and I think it may just be the oil pump since I don’t have the timing cover back on yet, but I just wanted your professional opinion.
When my 2017 RAM 5.7 hits 100K I plan a cam swap. I was going to pay to have the shop do it but after watching your videos I may do it myself. Great instruction. Does the cam swap eliminate the MDS system? I want to eliminate the system and run all eight at all times.
The cam swap itself doesn't eliminate MDS, but you can purchase a non MDS cam, remove the MDS solenoids and install the block off plugs and purchase a tuner that will turn the MDS system off. 👍
Did the valves come in contact with #1 piston? Looks like it in the vid. I hope you don't have any bent valves and or pushrods. Definitely would have replaced all pushrods especially if that one lifter was starting to go out.
Sky, I installed the stage1 comp cam on my 2011 5.7. Before reassembly, I verified the #1 piston was at tdc and the cam phaser mark was at 12 o'clock. Although I didn't check the crank sprocket to make sure it was at the 6 o'clock position because I didn't remove the oil pump, I assumed it was because the #1 piston is at tdc. I rotated the crankshaft multiple times and the phaser mark and piston were dead on every time. Finally, the issue I'm having is after the engine is at operating temperature, it will not idle below 1000 rpm. On the test drive the engine is very lazy and it smells like it's over fueling. My thoughts are it's out of time, but before I recheck cam timing I wanted to get your thoughts. Thanks
Hmm, seems like you got the timing correct, there's no way that if your #1 piston is at TDC and the phaser is at 12 O'clock that it could be out of time. Are you having any other driveability problems, like misfires, CEL or anything?
@@ReignitedAuto Sky I also verified timing and went one step further and checked the crank sprocket as I was changing the oil pump also. I released the pin front the tensioner and was concerned when the cam sprocket rolled back a bit. I’m also getting a p0016 now it runs great before the second start up on a battery reset any ideas
@@brandizzo1 if it runs perfectly fine and it's not stumbling at all, you might take it for a short drive to see if the code goes stored. Sometimes the cam phaser has to go through an entire sweep before it'll clear. If that's not it is hate to say it but you'll probably have to pull the ticking cover again to verify timing marks. But usually if its a tooth off it'll run poorly.
OK so it is my understanding that in order for the cylinder deactivation system to work the solenoids open allowing more oil into the lifter valley which then allows the oil to depress the pin in the lifters and canceling those cylinders out. With more oil in the area wouldn't that help prevent lifter wear making the cylinder deactivation system a good thing for the engine? Also just wondering if you knew about sunroofs in Rsms and if so would you mind doing a series on proper maintenance, how to keep them from leaking, and if they need any adjustment. Thanks Sky!
You're right Tom, that's my thought on the MDS system as well. As far as sunroofs go, my main point of advice is to periodically open the sunroof, and looking at it from the top, you will see two small holes at the front corners. These are your drains. Many times these will become plugged and cause a leak inside the vehicle. So periodically use some compressed air to blow out the drains and keep them clear 👍
Thanks! First time having a truck with a sun roof and always hear horror stories about them. Wasn't looking for a sun roof it just came with it. I just want to keep up on it and avoid any problems. Is a little water leaking through when it rains or going through a car wash normal?
I blew them out and can hear air coming out from behind the front fenders at the base of the A pillars on both sides. It is normal for water to seep past the gasket on the glass when I wash it or it rains? Sorry so many questions.
@@tomcooper920 it's definitely normal for water to seep past the upper gasket where the glass meets the roof, but it should all end up in the tray underneath the glass and get sent down the drain tubes 👍
I’m waiting for my parts to com in to do cam and lifters. My lifters started to fail at 157K miles and 1000s of hours of Idling. I drive my truck about 3K miles per week. I will be doing the MDS delete
FYI lubriplate engine assy lube should not be used if the engine will be sitting any period of time before running. The oil will separate from the soap. And cause lack of lube on initial start.
@@ReignitedAuto btw, halfway through my cam refresh in my 5.7 2013 ram. 1. Your channel will explode. It's the best . Thank you for your efforts. 2. I will look closer when I'm done, but I only have one bad lifter. But the cam has 4 lobes pooched. Are the cams failures occurring before lifter failures?
This series is awesome and super informative. You break it down so perfectly I even feel like I could do a came install lol. Really wish something like this was around for the 392/6.4 which is what I have. Should it be much different?
Been watching a lot of your videos...SUPER helpful!! Thanks so much for all the great info!! Sorry if this is not the best place to ask, but I've been looking all over and can't seem to find a good picture or clear answer yet. I have a 2013 Grand Cherokee (5.7)...and I'm trying to figure out whether I'll need to remove the AC condenser to replace the Cam. Any chance you know if that'll be necessary? Just not sure if there's enough room to swap the cam without bumping into the condenser.
Making it look easy. When you replace the exhaust manifold bolts do you get higher grade bolts to help fight the broken bolt issues the stock motors get?
No, I think the main issue with the stock bolts is you've got a cast manifold that is very thick, and combined with being bolted to an aluminum cylinder head, the expansion and contraction of the metals is so different I think that's where the fatigue comes from. Once you install headers of any kind with a thin flange the issue seems to be resolved.
This video is the reason i decided to replace the lifters and cam on my 6.1 Hemi myself. It really motivated me. I love all your vids. I do have two questions. The first is about the heads, do the heads need to be machined? Second question The lifter that failed was on the passenger side Will it be ok if i just replace the lifters on that one side and leave the other side untouched? Thank you
Love the fact that you're going to take it on 👍. As for your questions, unless the vehicle has been overheated at some point, not necessary to machine the head surface. It's a good step to perform and I wouldn't fault anyone for doing so, but it's not strictly necessary. Secondly, definitely 100% replace the lifters in both sides. It's not barely any more work to remove the other head to replace the lifters once you've gone that far.
Thank you for taking the time to respond I got some quotes over the weekend that ranged from $3000 to $5000. With a combination of my basic engine knowledge and your videos i decided to do it all myself at home. And im glad i did. I agree with you, i have the engine all torn apart and removing the driver side head would be super easy at this point. I will be removing the driver side head today and order all 16 lifters and cam from Mopar along with all the gaskets needed. Since i don't know the history of the car and it currently has 190k miles, i will take that extra step and get the heads machined and replace the valve seats while im at it. I would hate to drop a valve seat down the road. Again, thank you for your support...
Hummm...A little head scratcher we have here! So the engine ran fine without any ticking from the Lifters but still has a used and scuffed Cam? Any idea why this went silent?
I think it was just in the opening stages of failure. Usually you don't hear the noise until the top of the lobe gets worn away, then there's a gap that the lifter slaps against causing the noise. 👍
Thanks to ur videos i learned so informative information I have 05 ram 5.7 and just did head gaskets @ almost 200k miles ..I regret not upgradeding the cam while everything was out but it wasn't in the budget..since I re did everything new with the heads and top end .....question any recommendations for cam on my 5.7 ram that's not to crazy if I decide to do it later on
Watched a lot of these videos of yours and I am trying to decide what to do. I have a search and rescue 2016 RAM 2500 5.7L. I am concerned about reliability and being able to idle for a few hours at a time. Can I do cam, springs 6.2hellat oil pump and whatever else to increase reliability rather than performance to avoid tuning issues and save money. I can dedicate around $3000-3500 on this. The reliability is very important as it is used to hold a SAR K9 with the AC during warm environments. I have a backup AC that runs on DC power as well as cellular temperature.monitors
I think that your scenario is the perfect one to install the hellcat pump on. I work on quite a few K9 units at my work, so I know how critical the A/C functionality is, and I think the hellcat pump will do the best job of prevention for your ram.
Great video and great attention to detail! I noticed you didn't degree the cam though. Was this due to it being an OEM sourced part? Instead of Comp or a similar aftermarket as an example.
@@ReignitedAuto You can install it straight up like in the video but if the lobes aren't machined precisely on-center, you can have in excess of 6 degrees+ variance. You have to measure intake valve event to know precisely.
Question... why wouldn’t you resurface the head?.. also why not replace the valve seals when already there?... also why not replace the chain tensioner?... doing all of that can save you time and money from having to go back in there...
Little late to the party but I was considering adding a set of srt or possibly hellcat headers to my 2011 Ram as a fix for the exhaust manifold leak. Any ideas if that would be a simple bolt on like this or would I need to do some fabricating? Thanks and appreciate the awesome Hemi content!
Lifter roller needle bearings may fail prematurely on Gen 3 Hemi engines produced pre 2016 due to small weak needles in roller. From 2016 onwards lifters were beefed up with larger thicker needle bearings. Lifter PN went from AA being lifter to avoid to AB revision with larger thicker bearings from same OEM, then AC which now come from different supplier.
Check out my post on the community tab of my channel. I posted a picture two days ago showing the differences between the older style lifters and the updated lifters. 👍
This is a great and informative video. I have my 2013 Ram 1500 with 167,000 miles and start having problems with cylinder nr 8 miss fire. Tomorrow dealer will give me second opinion if I need to replace engine. I was wondering if you be interested to rebuild my engine. Thank you.
Which model Hemi do you own?
2013 ram
When I call PowerTrain company for quote they told me that I have gen 3 hemi
2015 Challenger RT Plus
2005 Dodge Magnum R/T
2018 Charger R/T 5.7
This has to be one of the most informative channels out there
Appreciate you watching!
In another video he mentioned he worked on Hemi engines as a mechanic for over a decade. He's got a whole lot to share and boxes of fresh tape haha.
mine has 160000miles and still going
I'm a retired, ASE certified tech. and I have done my share of instruction. I know a lot but definitely not everything and your videos are informative, clearly presented, articulate and not full of meaningless chatter taking up the time that should go to instruction. It's really a relief and refreshing compared to the majority of videos I find here.
Thanks! 😊
I appreciate those kind words, thank you!
@@ReignitedAuto You're very welcome 🙏 I have a '23 Scat Pack ➕️ Shaker edition with 6spd and all the upgrades you can stuff in a standard body. 😀
I'm chewing away at it but the big stuff will wait until the warranty is out. 😆
I was warned against getting a 5.7 hemi, I was told the cam shaft always fails at around 80,000 miles. This channel gave me hope!
Thanks for watching!
I'm at 200k. Stock.
Stopped mobile oil at 100k. Went to Valvoline high mileage. No issues so far.
Cai, shorties on back. Due to ex manifold bolt issues.
Soon will be cam, intake, etc.
At 135,000 magnum love it no issues
Mine just went bad at exactly 80k miles smh
190k miles on a 07 with mds no issues
Just as a heads up, I have wrenched on car since 1964. I currently, because I am retired, I do a side job of security and one of my security positions I am at an auto parts store. I recently started taking some of the lifters that they sell, these are as melling lifters. When I checked them, by taking them out and rolling them along my wrist or even along a smooth portion of the counter, I find several that the bearings do not roll consistently. They are skidding along the countertop. That is concerning to say the least. Make sure that you check the bearings on new lifters when you install them. It is worth every turn of the wrench that you save later.
Sky, I am here in Jan. 2025 to review before I install a cam into a spare engine to replace the 5.7l in my 2012 Challenger. I always enjoyed your vids, full of knowledge, nothing fancy and easy to relate.
Hope you make more, if only to document your personal projects, I for one like to see them!
If you watched Uncle Tony's Garage, then you should have seen him demonstrate that the lack of oil splash was not the only issue, but the angle of the lifter which is almost horizontal rather than the standard vertical that most lifters are, which will allow any oil dripping from the lifter to fall down on the rollers, but the way that these bores are almost horizontal keep that from happening.
I agree with Tony, that there c are several issues, and that the horizontal angle is causing alot of the issues as well as that bore tube that runs down the center blocking the splash that you would normally get from the crankshaft is also an issue that is causing these rollers to fail prematurely.
I would love to know what changes were made in the design or material after 2009 that caused this issue to be so much more prevalent.
Thanks for your hemi videos. Didn't have 3500 to get my car fixed so I watched u and did myself. Got my whole engine broke down and lifters and cam out. I'm not a mechanic but if you show me I can achieve 💯
Love to hear this! 💪
My son and I followed your videos. Outstanding tips and instructions allowed us to easily replace a damaged cam and lift on a 5.7 hemi. Best instructional videos on UA-cam!
I love hearing that! 💪
Being an old school MOPAR guy from the 80`s this video is awesome thank you for making it
Appreciate you watching!
Imo, there isn't a better or more informative channel on UA-cam than this one for Gen III Hemis.
It took a while before I could get time to myself to watch this episode...did not want to miss it and I'm glad I didn't. So much detailed info and best practice in here its AMazing. Thank you for taking the time and effort to thoroughly put this together.
Appreciate you Mike!
Your work is such a blessing to this community. Especially guys with a 5.7. Keep pushing no matter what! cause you have purpose!!
Wish I'd have found your channel when this was a new video. So much good information here
Got to 194K miles in my 2011 R/T when I got P1524 followed by a couple of P30 misfire codes. Took it to Meineke and they told me it’s my cam and lifters and to replace the whole engine. This video series gives me hope to just fix it myself while also upgrading my cam anyway.
working on 2018 5.7 Ram 2500 without factory MDS. Lifter and cam failure at 1250, miles on # 1 cyl but thanks to your video I am almost back running.
Nice! Good job on doing it yourself 💪
I'm working on my 21 tow and go Durango. I'm gonna install the 6.5 cam. Can't wait. Oh and I high flow oil pump.
I have seen this happen at 70K miles. But, I have an 03 1500 with no issues at 210K. Material cost cutting and heat treating. Excellent channel.
I’m at 76,039 miles on my MINT 2011 grand Cherokee. 2nd owner of the vehicle. Everything is super clean. BUT,
I have a tapping noise at idle and drive and know it’s the dreaded cam and lifter. This video series is so so amazing.
Keep up the amazing work. To have this information on UA-cam is great for new technicians like me . Thank you for working with the engine in the vehicle
Appreciate you watching 👍 Always happy to help a fellow tech 💪
My RT Plus Shaker with Tremec manual tranny has 30 K on it, still running strong. This is a great series you are doing here, very informative for the Mopar brotherhood....
Thanks for watching Chuck!
Is yours a 14 shaker ifso what #are u
@@mattjohnson2988 2020 Shaker
I did the SRT headers on my 05 magnum rt and it freed up so much power! I had a lifter start to fail after 170000 miles after cam install and raced for years.I put SRT lifters to eliminate MDS and never looked back.You will so happy with a bigger cam.Good luck and have fun
Thanks David!
With the srt headers on a 05 engine, were there any modifications you had to do to the header to fit?
@@carlosdelrio7593 the only thing I had to do was on the passenger side I put a groove in the flange for the EGR . There is a round hole in the head.and all have to do also use the SRT manifold bolts to bolt it up. I used the factory SRT Cat pipes cause 5.7 uses 2.25in and SRT uses 2.75-3in pipes and frees up HUGE
Also the you connect the hole to the first tube on the collector on the flange. I hope this helps
Sky, this was an awesome two videos on camshaft and lifter replacement. We did it on a Dodge 2014 6.4 liter. Again thank you.
Great work! 💪
THAT was the FASTEST I've EVER seen a pass side valve cover go on !!! ( and WITH no choice words !!) as always great vid!! Keep em coming!
Appreciate it man! 💪
Amazing. Friend of mine got all this done to his camaro and spent close to 9k I’m definitely gonna do it myself. Your vids are very informative. Glad to be apart of your channel
Really appreciate you watching!
Getting ready to do this job on my '15 300S. I know this video's a year old, but the information is invaluable. Thanks for taking the time to do it.
Subscribed.
Great video, I feel confident that I could do this job myself. Now all I need is an air conditioned garage!
Wow, you showed how simple this upgrade is...just saved me a lot of money. Thanks 😊🙏
Appreciate you watching!
Excellent tutorial on these engines! Look forward to upcoming episodes.
Thanks Mark!
شكرا جزيلا لك على الشرح الممتاز تحياتي لك من فلسطين 🇵🇸 ❤️ Thank you very much for the excellent explanation, my greetings to you from Palestine 🇵🇸 ❤️
again this is a great video series it should be shown in tech schools
Appreciate that Mike! 👍
I just bought a 2022 Ram 1500 with 44,500 miles on it. The 5.7 Hemi had a fairly loud cold start lifter tick lasting about 3 seconds until it filled with oil. I changed the oil, put a quality filter on, and added a half quart of Marvel Mystery oil. Cold start tick is now gone. You get lucky some times.
I own a 2004 ram 5.7 with over 200k miles and just did a round trip from Illinois to Mexico I decided to change all gaskets and being there I check the lifters and they’re actually pretty good.
im a DIY wanna be mechanic, im currently doing my cousins RT, its pretty staright forward but oh man watching your two videos of removal and install makes it even easier, thansk for all the excellent information 😎
Definitely got more info from you on this then any other channel getting ready to do a mds repair/delete and learned so much here gonna make it a lot smoother I believe!
Great tip on the valve cover seal. I rolled the back corner on mines and had to take them off 2 times before I got it on without it leaking...😁 Enjoying the videos, keep up the great work!👌
Such a pain to get that right!
I freaking love you this is going to be my commitment every time thank you Dr SRT.
Liking the series, this is going to help out a lot when I get to pulling the cam and lifters on my 2010 Charger SSV.
Exactly what I want to hear 👍
I wish I had the guts to do this to my charger myself...... I need car friends like this guy...
Nice work, attention to detail and highlighting common pitfalls, great content thanks again, looking forward to seeing that thing fire up!
I appreciate you watching!
Thank you for this video, it help very much during my rebuild. I’ve done the exact job you did and I only used stock one parts from dealer. I’m having problems with the valves saying open and hitting the piston after rebuild. Valve timing is perfect and I’m stumped. Thanks
Well to be honest one of those statements can't be true, either the timing is correct, or the valve are hitting, can't be both. I'd be pulling the cover back off to verify the timing marks. 👍
@@ReignitedAuto Thanks for the reply, I’ve double checked timing (mark at 12 and 1st cylinder at TDC) and it’s still perfect. I’ve also had my heads re-machined with new valves. Is it possible that the new lifters aren’t compressing?
@@matthewcecil9404 if anything it's the opposite, the new lifters won't be pumped up with oil and won't deliver max lift. How are you verifying TDC?
@@matthewcecil9404 also, as a secondary option, remove the valve covers and check the pushrod ends to make sure they are seated properly in the rocker arms and aren't hanging the valve open when they should be fully closed 👍
@@ReignitedAuto Verifying the timing with the cam gear mark at 12 o’clock and 1st cylinder at TDC. Thanks for the tips I’m going to go back threw everything and double check the rocker arms. I’ll give you an update on what I find.
my name is Eric Horr i live in south western pa and own a 2005 chrysler 300. i bought it last year with 59000 miles on it. it currently has around 72000 now. i genuinly enjoy your videos . they are super informative. im wanting to put long tube headers and upgraded cam and lifters. I would love to hear your opinion and see if you have a video on long tube headers install. thank you again for your amazing videos.
I agree with Saul ...very impressive with all the information that you provide. Thanks
Thank you for watching I appreciate it!
Good tip about installing the valve cover gasket 🤘🤘
I hate to say it, but it's gotten me a few times 😄
This is an awesome channel you should be more famous great videos I’m going to use your stuff on my 2014 charger pursuit with the hemi 👍
This guy is spot on, couldn't explain it better myself. As far as the passenger side valve cover, yes I've been there also, there is an engine ground that runs directly behind it that runs up near the strut tower I undo, makes install a bit easier
Thanks for the tip!
Once again, a great video. I'll comment on things I did wrong and perhaps some other tips that might be good or bad -- I'm definitely not as skilled as you. I put loctite on the cam bolt and on the lifter "cartridge" bolts. I just used blue loctite. When I replaced my springs, the first time around, I had my shop press them on because I screwed up and dragged the head on the dowel pins. But, I wanted to take a few off to check something, so I tried two different methods. One is to place a rag under the valve, put the head down over the rag, then take a large socket that completely fits over the spring retainer, and give it a few good whacks with a hammer. When you do that, the keepers fall (I should say fly) out. But Autozone does have a screw style spring compressor. Some say it doesn't work with the hemi, but I got it to work fine with mine. Much better and less violent way to get the keepers off.
One of the mistakes I made when reassembling the valvetrain was that I actually put a pushrod into the cylinder head drain hole. Thankfully, it was the exhaust lifter and wasn't able to fall all the way into the oil pan, but I still did need to use a magnet to pull it back out. It seems like a silly thing to do, but in the ram, it's hard to work from the side and be "level" with the cylinder head like on the challenger. When putting the rockers back on, I found that it was easiest for me to figure out which pushrod was going to be the tallest, then set that in the rocker and ever so slightly tighten the bolt near it. then move on to the next highest and so on. If I didn't do that, inevitably when working trying to get all four lined up, one of them would fall out of the rocker cup. Then when they were all in, I would tighten everything down a little bit, but not all the way, and then run my finger on the rocker arms. It is a relatively small difference, but if the pushrod is in there right, the rod will feel kind of "far" away from the tip of the rocker arm. If it's real close to the tip, then it's not seated right.
On the Ram, the drivers side valve cover is particularly difficult to avoid the gasket rolling out like you said. You're fighting between the cowl, the transmission breather, fuel lines, evap lines, and a brake booster. In my case, I had to fight with it to get over the last rocker, but then once I got it over, I was able to pull it up slightly -- enough for me to get my finger under the cover and feel that the gasket was in fact rolled over. Using my finger, I was able to press it back into place before tightening everything down.
Oh and one other thing I did, since I screwed up my heads when I took them off, I ordered an extra set of head bolts (I thought I couldn't re-use them). In any case, I took two of the old bolts, cut the heads off real close (e.g. keep them as long as possible) and then I took a grinding wheel and gave them a dullish/blunt/rounded point (e.g. like the end of a pushrod). I screwed the old two bolts one or two revolutions into the top front and back holes (The dowel pin ones) and then when I put the head back on, all I had to do was line up the two bolts, and slide the head down on those bolts. The bolts that you cut down don't stick out very far because you cut them off, so you might need to use a magnet or needle-nose pliers to unscrew them when the head is in -- but that's why I only twisted them in one revolution or so. So although you can re-use the bolts, perhaps buy two new ones and sacrifice two old ones to make the "alignment pins" LOL. Both of those heads you put on went amazingly well, but for me only doing it once, there is no way it would have went on that well LOL.
Thanks Tucker!
"One of the mistakes I made when reassembling the valvetrain was that I actually put a pushrod into the cylinder head drain hole" Super common, don't feel bad about it, I've seen lots of techs do this!
When putting the rockers back on, I found that it was easiest for me to figure out which pushrod was going to be the tallest, then set that in the rocker and ever so slightly tighten the bolt near it. then move on to the next highest and so on. If I didn't do that, inevitably when working trying to get all four lined up, one of them would fall out of the rocker cup. Then when they were all in, I would tighten everything down a little bit, but not all the way, and then run my finger on the rocker arms" This is exactly the way I do it as well 👍
Also, Blue loctite is never a bad idea.
Tip to keep pushrods in place when tightening down the rocker arms. Get some fuel/oil rubber hose that snugly fits the pushrods on the ID and cut 3/4" pieces then slice them open. Slide them over the pushrods and snug the pushrods up to the rocker arms. They will keep the pushrods from dropping and will keep enough tension to hold them into the rocker arms. Once all tightened down you pull them off (that's where the slicing them open comes into play.)
@@DL101ca I like this tip, I'm going to try it tomorrow on my 6.4 build 👌
Thank you for this great series - it has given me the confidence to try this job at home, to fix a stuck lifter. Unfortunately, I’m finding myself worried about the condition of the heads, and their ability to seal properly at the head gasket. I scraped off any old material with a plastic scraper and gasket remover and cleaned them up as best as I can but I see a lot of people using abrasive wheels, which I didn’t do, and others saying heads need to be machined and resurfaced or an OEM MLS gasket won’t seal. I’ve read aftermarket head gaskets are a little more forgiving in this regard, since the OEM gasket is generally fit to brand new components.
You didn’t really touch on this subject in the series, and I’m wondering if I’m overthinking things.
Interesting that you post this now, since I'm literally filming a segment tomorrow speaking about this exact thing! In short, yes you're probably overthinking it a bit. I use a red (medium) coarse roloc disc on a 90 degree sanding wheel to clean the gasket residue from the surface of the heads. Don't sand at an angle, keep the disc flat to the surface, also don't put pressure on the disc, you're just looking to remove the excess gasket material, not take off the top layer of aluminum. The discs are much less aggressive than you think they are, this is what they are designed to do.
Literally all you need to do is get rid of the gasket material from the previous head gaskets, you don't need to remove every mark from the head gasket surface. You also do not need to resurface the heads if you haven't had any issues with overheating or suspect the engine has been overheated at some point.
As far as aftermarket head gaskets being more forgiving than OEM ones, it's actually the other way around. OEM head gaskets are far more preferable in my opinion.
Love the fact that you've tackled this yourself, shows the channel is doing what I meant for it to do. 💪
@@ReignitedAuto Thanks, I feel a whole lot better! Yeah, so far following your videos has made this an absolute SNAP. The only snag has been drilling out one of the studs on the exhaust flange that broke off. I'm hoping I can just put through a nice grade 8 bolt and a nut and that will suffice.
So this is an 09 Charger I bought out of state back in June. 75,000 miles, and it made the trip back home just fine. BUT as soon as I got it home (200 mi drive...) I shut off the car and when I next started it, I took off and got a misfire right away. That's when I noticed the ticking. I took it right in to a mechanic (dealer) and they diagnosed a collapsed lifter, as I feared. They were going to charge $7,000! I actually said 'ok', but they sat on the car from June until last week. When I found your videos, I said "I can do this..." and I towed it home. So far so good. So yes, your channel is fantastic. I've always worked on my own car, but I never thought I'd take on something like this.
@@madfingers That's awesome, good work 👏
If and when I do not looking forward as my 5.7 is in a Ram 2500 4x4 stock height , wanting to do long tube ARH at same time, thinking about doing this 6.4 cam , do you think the advantages are there and did you say you can leave mds active
Thanks for the video
Great explanation and timing for doing this, you found a problem before it got worse. Is oil degradation one of the factors that can cause this type of wear on the lifters and cam...If so, will changing the oil before the specified time help?
Absolutely oil degradation is a huge factor in premature lifter failures. I'm a firm believer in oil changes every 3k miles. I know the newer synthetics give a longer interval than that, but better safe than sorry in my opinion.
I’m looking to put new lifters in my new (to me) ‘14 pursuit charger. These videos are of super quality. Only videos so far to help get such a great understanding of this job. Hoping that the ‘ask a question’ tab on your website is working. If I can get this job done, I’m definitely buying a t-shirt.
Appreciate you watching! If you can't get ahold of me through the email tab then try direct message through instagram @reignited.tx 👍
try putting those valve covers off right after painting and trying not to nick it on anything 😂 i most definitely rolled the gasket on that corner you said! had to take off repaint and new gasket 🙄😂
I did SRT headers on my 10 Challenger. I had previously installed a Corsa Spirt cat-back system. I also installed 6.1 mid-pipes. But, I had the pipes moded to fit OVER the smaller 5.7 pipes.
I just put the srt headers on my Charger RT and it is a huge improvement.
Definitely Agree! 😎
Where are you guys getting yours? The only set I found were like $800! Could buy nice coated long tubes for that!
@@HellmuthsHotRods I found mine on Ebay brand new as a set of take offs from a crate motor.
@@HellmuthsHotRods I bought mine from MMX, but you can find them new take offs on ebay for under $500
You can call MMX to see if they still have them. I got mine from them with Stainless Works 3in mid pipes for $450. I can't wind them on their sight anymore.
Great information!! My 2012 Ram Hemi had cam/lifter failure at 190K miles. The lifter was not on one of the MDS cylinders but appears to be a camshaft hardening issue because I had the same putting on six of the lives and one that was noisy that had worn into the lobe. Bought complete MDS delete kit with Mopar replacement cam and lifters. Hope this cam is better but 190K is not too bad but have gotten 300K out of GM 5.3’s. Still love my Hemi!!
Sorry, six of the lobes! Doggone auto correct
Appreciate that feedback! 👍
Great videos. Thanks for sharing!
Was told by a local [arts manager that the camshaft for a 5.7L is fairly soft material. And that they were roughly $65 for a 5.7 cam shaft! BUT.... you'll need 2 sets of lifter assemblies and those are about $475 EACH SET??!!
So, not including labor costs, this isn't a cheap, budget job by any means. But I will say again, THANKS for sharing this info. Besides the parts prices being typical Mopar costs, I would do this at home and save the money from labor, since it IS very doable with hand tools and this knowledge.
Appreciate you watching Daniel. Yea Mopar parts pricing is crazy, the super cheap camshaft is a side effect of Chysler having to replace so many of them under warranty. By law they have to pay the dealer a markup cost for the parts used during warranty repairs, so if they price the part super cheap they pay less markup 😂. All part of the game.
Just got a 6.4 cam and MDS delete kit for my 15 RT. You're welcome to do the work and make a new video :D
My 2015 manual 5.7 started ticking at around 70k... I think it's a bit premature, especially considering the need to pull the heads to fix it. Thanks for the video on the process, though!
Love the channel and love the information. I’m intending on doing many of these mods. With a couple of changes.
1. My state allows full length headers and I’ll opt for those with the high flow cats as well
2. Will be adding the 392 intake with the matching cam you just installed.
That's going to sound awesome, I love long tube headers. They are just such a pain to install! 😄
@@ReignitedAuto ... I have a set of long tube headers for my Ram that I need to put on... I hope it's not too difficult
@@ghostrt1608 The trucks aren't nearly as difficult, you should be good!
A lot of people have had a lot of success with Redline oil, it's high moly and zinc content have quited everybodies hemi valve train noise almost completely, so it stands too reason that in one way or another, it's lubricating better than your typical off the shelf oils and should mostly if not entirely alleviate these lifter failures.
It's definitely expensive -- like double the price of Mobil 1, and you have too order it online, but it's still cheaper than a whole new valve train
Best bang for your buck Pennzoil Platinum unless you like to throw money away for no better performance. Most folks who spend too much on oil come up with all kinds of things to justify it. There's been all kinds of testing on additive packages, lubrication levels, viscosity, dilution resistance etc and they have not shown the benefits some expensive oils claim.
@@DL101ca I really don't go by tests, I go by how many people have used it and can prove it worked. HEMI's are known for a lot of valve train noise, which is normal in these engines, and literally every single person who tried Redline says it quietted the valve train noise almost completely, myself included. The only logical reason it would do that is improved lubrication one way or another. I'll stick with it. There's hundreds This fucking cop ran code for a whole nother fucking hour at well over 100mph, he risked everyone else's life, chasing someone he will never catch. There's hundreds, if not thousands of forum posts about exactly this.
I’ve done this SRT manifold sway on my 5.7 and the motor mount heat shield studs interfere with the header. The need to be trimmed. Check before you put the head bolts in!
Weirdly some of the Chrysler vehicles have that stud like you mentioned, and some install the heat shield with a bolt. I haven't figured out why they use one or the other.
Thank you for making these 3 videos. I learned so much from them
I have a 2015 SRT392 I bought new that had three lifters fail at around 23K - none were on MDS cylinders.
All 16 were replaced under warranty with updated parts (which came out in 2016).
Yea at that low of mileage I'm more inclined to think parts quality failure than anything else!
@@ReignitedAuto The one thing I didn't find out is what they changed about them in 2016. Would be interesting to know. I also wonder if my cam was really"OK" like they claimed..
@@ScottDLR check out the community post on my channel I posted a couple weeks ago, is a direct comparison of the old style lifter to the new style 👍
@@ReignitedAuto Thanks - will do!
I think it would be a good thing to inspect, clean the valves and replace seals at this point.
As I said, on your own vehicle, absolutely! 👍
Just got a 2011 300c awd with 240k and I'm starting to hear some lifter noise. This might give me the confidence to change the cam and lifters myself.
I think letting your engine warmup before operation is a key factor as well....
Great job again! Can’t wait to see results!!
Thanks Bob!
he looks like Steve from Jerry Springer lol 😂 but all jokes aside I can say this for everyone thank you for theses detailed videos I hope your following grows fast because you deserve it
😂 That's the second time I've gotten that one, I need to look him up and see what he looks like. That being said, I do have a very generic white guy look 😂
Great video! Love the detail... you gave me confidence to do the lifters, cam swap, and mds delete..
Wish I would have spend a bit more time on the pushrod.. definitely think I have that issue
You'll get it dialed! 💪
In shop now didn't know you need lifters after 125k costs 5k DAAAM
I'm just commenting for the UA-cam engagement algorithm again Sky. I don't know if more typed out is better or not, but I'm gonna write out a bunch of words just in case.
Great series Sky, a lot of good detail and tips here!
Appreciate it my man!
I picked up a good quality Lang spring compressor from Summit Racing for $76.84 including tax, S/H. I live in Ohio so I had it in 2 days.
There was another one like it, that reviews said to stay away from. Review said the Lang was the brand to get.
I plan on getting a manual 5.7 for my first car. I need all the mods to smack some ponys... Keep up the videos my boy
Thank you for watching!
Great video!! I love all the tips and details. I can't wait to do the same on my 300C. Thanks, Sky! I learned a lot, especially about the lifters ! I am curious. I watched the video on the hellcat oil pump project. Why did you not put one in this upgrade?
Didn't have the idea to do so at the time, otherwise I would have 👍
Hey man! Sorry for the abundance of questions, but I have the rocker arms and pushrods in and everything is seemingly good. But I have a lot of air sound and I think it may just be the oil pump since I don’t have the timing cover back on yet, but I just wanted your professional opinion.
When my 2017 RAM 5.7 hits 100K I plan a cam swap. I was going to pay to have the shop do it but after watching your videos I may do it myself. Great instruction. Does the cam swap eliminate the MDS system? I want to eliminate the system and run all eight at all times.
The cam swap itself doesn't eliminate MDS, but you can purchase a non MDS cam, remove the MDS solenoids and install the block off plugs and purchase a tuner that will turn the MDS system off. 👍
Did the valves come in contact with #1 piston? Looks like it in the vid. I hope you don't have any bent valves and or pushrods. Definitely would have replaced all pushrods especially if that one lifter was starting to go out.
Sky, I installed the stage1 comp cam on my 2011 5.7. Before reassembly, I verified the #1 piston was at tdc and the cam phaser mark was at 12 o'clock. Although I didn't check the crank sprocket to make sure it was at the 6 o'clock position because I didn't remove the oil pump, I assumed it was because the #1 piston is at tdc. I rotated the crankshaft multiple times and the phaser mark and piston were dead on every time. Finally, the issue I'm having is after the engine is at operating temperature, it will not idle below 1000 rpm. On the test drive the engine is very lazy and it smells like it's over fueling. My thoughts are it's out of time, but before I recheck cam timing I wanted to get your thoughts. Thanks
Hmm, seems like you got the timing correct, there's no way that if your #1 piston is at TDC and the phaser is at 12 O'clock that it could be out of time. Are you having any other driveability problems, like misfires, CEL or anything?
@@ReignitedAuto Sky I also verified timing and went one step further and checked the crank sprocket as I was changing the oil pump also. I released the pin front the tensioner and was concerned when the cam sprocket rolled back a bit. I’m also getting a p0016 now it runs great before the second start up on a battery reset any ideas
@@brandizzo1 if it runs perfectly fine and it's not stumbling at all, you might take it for a short drive to see if the code goes stored. Sometimes the cam phaser has to go through an entire sweep before it'll clear. If that's not it is hate to say it but you'll probably have to pull the ticking cover again to verify timing marks. But usually if its a tooth off it'll run poorly.
Yep first time I did one of these mds deletes I had 1 pushrod slip off the rocker
OK so it is my understanding that in order for the cylinder deactivation system to work the solenoids open allowing more oil into the lifter valley which then allows the oil to depress the pin in the lifters and canceling those cylinders out. With more oil in the area wouldn't that help prevent lifter wear making the cylinder deactivation system a good thing for the engine? Also just wondering if you knew about sunroofs in Rsms and if so would you mind doing a series on proper maintenance, how to keep them from leaking, and if they need any adjustment. Thanks Sky!
You're right Tom, that's my thought on the MDS system as well. As far as sunroofs go, my main point of advice is to periodically open the sunroof, and looking at it from the top, you will see two small holes at the front corners. These are your drains. Many times these will become plugged and cause a leak inside the vehicle. So periodically use some compressed air to blow out the drains and keep them clear 👍
Thanks! First time having a truck with a sun roof and always hear horror stories about them. Wasn't looking for a sun roof it just came with it. I just want to keep up on it and avoid any problems. Is a little water leaking through when it rains or going through a car wash normal?
@@tomcooper920 I'd check those drains right now, usually water only leaks in when the drains are plugged. 👍
I blew them out and can hear air coming out from behind the front fenders at the base of the A pillars on both sides. It is normal for water to seep past the gasket on the glass when I wash it or it rains? Sorry so many questions.
@@tomcooper920 it's definitely normal for water to seep past the upper gasket where the glass meets the roof, but it should all end up in the tray underneath the glass and get sent down the drain tubes 👍
I’m waiting for my parts to com in to do cam and lifters. My lifters started to fail at 157K miles and 1000s of hours of Idling. I drive my truck about 3K miles per week. I will be doing the MDS delete
Great series! Why not full tube headers instead of maifolds? thx
FYI lubriplate engine assy lube should not be used if the engine will be sitting any period of time before running. The oil will separate from the soap. And cause lack of lube on initial start.
Good info 👍
@@ReignitedAuto 40yrs in the business you see stuff. 👀it's almost always good to share.
@@ReignitedAuto btw, halfway through my cam refresh in my 5.7 2013 ram.
1. Your channel will explode. It's the best . Thank you for your efforts.
2. I will look closer when I'm done, but I only have one bad lifter. But the cam has 4 lobes pooched. Are the cams failures occurring before lifter failures?
@@brentfellers9632 I've seen it both ways myself, it seems like there is an issue with the hardened surface of the cam lobes on certain years.
This series is awesome and super informative. You break it down so perfectly I even feel like I could do a came install lol. Really wish something like this was around for the 392/6.4 which is what I have. Should it be much different?
Almost identical, you could easily do the same for the 6.4 👍
Been watching a lot of your videos...SUPER helpful!! Thanks so much for all the great info!! Sorry if this is not the best place to ask, but I've been looking all over and can't seem to find a good picture or clear answer yet. I have a 2013 Grand Cherokee (5.7)...and I'm trying to figure out whether I'll need to remove the AC condenser to replace the Cam. Any chance you know if that'll be necessary? Just not sure if there's enough room to swap the cam without bumping into the condenser.
Just double checked and yes you'll have to remove the condenser on those vehicles. 👍
@@ReignitedAuto Okay great, thanks for checking!! Appreciate it!!
Making it look easy. When you replace the exhaust manifold bolts do you get higher grade bolts to help fight the broken bolt issues the stock motors get?
No, I think the main issue with the stock bolts is you've got a cast manifold that is very thick, and combined with being bolted to an aluminum cylinder head, the expansion and contraction of the metals is so different I think that's where the fatigue comes from. Once you install headers of any kind with a thin flange the issue seems to be resolved.
Dont forget about me when you hit a million
😂
thanks man this is very helpful, i hope to see more mopar videos from you.
This video is the reason i decided to replace the lifters and cam on my 6.1 Hemi myself. It really motivated me. I love all your vids.
I do have two questions.
The first is about the heads, do the heads need to be machined?
Second question
The lifter that failed was on the passenger side
Will it be ok if i just replace the lifters on that one side and leave the other side untouched?
Thank you
Love the fact that you're going to take it on 👍. As for your questions, unless the vehicle has been overheated at some point, not necessary to machine the head surface. It's a good step to perform and I wouldn't fault anyone for doing so, but it's not strictly necessary. Secondly, definitely 100% replace the lifters in both sides. It's not barely any more work to remove the other head to replace the lifters once you've gone that far.
Thank you for taking the time to respond
I got some quotes over the weekend that ranged from $3000 to $5000. With a combination of my basic engine knowledge and your videos i decided to do it all myself at home. And im glad i did.
I agree with you, i have the engine all torn apart and removing the driver side head would be super easy at this point.
I will be removing the driver side head today and order all 16 lifters and cam from Mopar along with all the gaskets needed.
Since i don't know the history of the car and it currently has 190k miles, i will take that extra step and get the heads machined and replace the valve seats while im at it. I would hate to drop a valve seat down the road.
Again, thank you for your support...
Hummm...A little head scratcher we have here! So the engine ran fine without any ticking from the Lifters but still has a used and scuffed Cam? Any idea why this went silent?
I think it was just in the opening stages of failure. Usually you don't hear the noise until the top of the lobe gets worn away, then there's a gap that the lifter slaps against causing the noise. 👍
Thanks to ur videos i learned so informative information I have 05 ram 5.7 and just did head gaskets @ almost 200k miles ..I regret not upgradeding the cam while everything was out but it wasn't in the budget..since I re did everything new with the heads and top end .....question any recommendations for cam on my 5.7 ram that's not to crazy if I decide to do it later on
Ok, great idea about the magnet. Thanks
You make it look easy. Keep up the good work.
Appreciate you watching!
Watched a lot of these videos of yours and I am trying to decide what to do. I have a search and rescue 2016 RAM 2500 5.7L. I am concerned about reliability and being able to idle for a few hours at a time. Can I do cam, springs 6.2hellat oil pump and whatever else to increase reliability rather than performance to avoid tuning issues and save money. I can dedicate around $3000-3500 on this. The reliability is very important as it is used to hold a SAR K9 with the AC during warm environments. I have a backup AC that runs on DC power as well as cellular temperature.monitors
I think that your scenario is the perfect one to install the hellcat pump on. I work on quite a few K9 units at my work, so I know how critical the A/C functionality is, and I think the hellcat pump will do the best job of prevention for your ram.
Great video and great attention to detail! I noticed you didn't degree the cam though. Was this due to it being an OEM sourced part? Instead of Comp or a similar aftermarket as an example.
That's correct, the can is basically in time or it's not, there's no real adjustment to be made. 👍
@@ReignitedAuto You can install it straight up like in the video but if the lobes aren't machined precisely on-center, you can have in excess of 6 degrees+ variance. You have to measure intake valve event to know precisely.
@@seanadams8444 that is true
@@ReignitedAuto it bit me in the ass once 😂 rampant paranoia.
Question... why wouldn’t you resurface the head?.. also why not replace the valve seals when already there?... also why not replace the chain tensioner?... doing all of that can save you time and money from having to go back in there...
Little late to the party but I was considering adding a set of srt or possibly hellcat headers to my 2011 Ram as a fix for the exhaust manifold leak. Any ideas if that would be a simple bolt on like this or would I need to do some fabricating? Thanks and appreciate the awesome Hemi content!
Lifter roller needle bearings may fail prematurely on Gen 3 Hemi engines produced pre 2016 due to small weak needles in roller. From 2016 onwards lifters were beefed up with larger thicker needle bearings. Lifter PN went from AA being lifter to avoid to AB revision with larger thicker bearings from same OEM, then AC which now come from different supplier.
Check out my post on the community tab of my channel. I posted a picture two days ago showing the differences between the older style lifters and the updated lifters. 👍
I wanted to ask
Can i use my old pushrods ?
And if so , should i replace them back in order or that doesn’t matter ?
This is a great and informative video.
I have my 2013 Ram 1500 with 167,000 miles and start having problems with cylinder nr 8 miss fire. Tomorrow dealer will give me second opinion if I need to replace engine. I was wondering if you be interested to rebuild my engine.
Thank you.
Unfortunately I'm not taking on customer work at this time, thank you though! And I appreciate you watching 👍
Great video! Planning on doing this to my 16 ram 5.7. i have mds but im planning to delete the solenoids. will these lifters work for my truck?
Yes they will 👍