hey guys, can we get this man to a million subs so he can show me how to forge the bottom end, swap the transmission, and then how to install a procharger?
In earlier videos you said that the lifters slapping the cam due to low volume of oil was partly responsible for the cam failures, yet the lifters slapped the cam like crazy at startup. It seems to make sense to me to soak the lifters to reduce or eliminate all that clattering at initial startup. That’s the only thing in this series so far that I would do differently, out of an abundance of caution, to facilitate that engine lasting as long as possible. Great videos.
2nd! Looking forward to this episode! The coolant vent plug on the water pump is either 1/4" NPT or 3/8" NPT, installed a standard radiator bleeder on both of mine, sure saves time on a coolant change! Great content and info here!
Your video saved me I was able to change my camshaft and new lifters in my ram 1500 the #8 lobe was wasted thank you so much for your videos they have been a life saver and money saver!!! Thank you so much!
The plug on the water pump works the first time everytime. I found it after installing a jasper replacement that decided to airlock in the cooling system.
It was good seeing you drain the oil. I think that is a great trick for getting all of the antifreeze out of the pan. It sounds great. I was thinking the computer wouldn't like the cam. But it seems to not see any difference in timing that it can't handle. It sounds strong just like you said.
Tech tips are great...Happy telling me once again to tap it in...give it the Ole taparoo was much needed at this point in my life...thank you for that sir...
After the initial loud clatter, that lifter noise is what mine ALWAYS sounds like. Wish I had the funds for this right now, but the header and midpipes looks like they are going to cost, unless I can find shorties to go with my factory mids. Great series, really appreciate this!!
I went for some hellcat replicas on mine too, they're just a little different, but they're chrome black instead of black black. I like the series so far.
Love those rims with the red paint. Just looks badass. I've seen a good many Challengers with chrome or polished aluminum, that's great if that's the look you want, just not for me. Only chrome I like is the Scat Pack Bee.
Thanks for the videos! I was able to complete my own cam/lifter swap watching this channel. There were some details left out, but I was able to get through it watching more detailed videos around ytube.
this car has never been to the drag strip, just normal driving, 130k miles, was running perfect before. im putting in a new oil pump and oring with the 0-40 first.
@@digitalme4404 I'm not a fan of increasing viscosity only because it's essentially masking the issue. I'd want to know why it's low when it never was before.
@@ReignitedAuto I agree with you. I was cleaning out the oil pan with a blue paper towel and saw little silver pieces on it. Not a lot, any is enough to be concerned. So, I went to Dodge and bought two cam bolts 6$, and 16 magnet antennas from oreillys 2$each, Im going to pull the cam back out to see whats up. Use the magnets to keep the lifters from dropping and having to pull the heads to put them back in. If lifters and cam good, then guess I will check the main and rod bearings next using a screw to rotate them out from the oil pan. If you have any other ideas, let me know. I have a new Melling oil pump and OEM pickup tube going in also on Monday.
Great content ... again. I vote that your next "less than $50" mod should be adding Mopar hood struts to get rid of the prop rod. They'll give it a more up to date look and gets the prop rod out of the way. I have a CAI ... as an appearance mod.
@@RollinIsbell I get that everyone likes how much oil the system catches, I'm just not sure why it matters? So what if your engine burns that oil instead? If your intake runners are goopy, do you even know? Beyond it possibly crusting up the valve stems I'm just not sure I see the benefits? I could be way off here, would be nice to get done additional data on long term usage of a catch can system. Preferably not directly from a manufacturer of a catch can 😄
@@ReignitedAuto Well ... in theory ... the blow-by oil can cause a reduction in octane through contaminating the fuel. Though, I also wonder if trapping the oil is denying some lubrication to the top of the engine.
@@RollinIsbell lubrication to the top of the engine ? That oil goes in your intake and gets burned or pools in your intake what are you going to lubricate with it ? This ain't a 2 stroke engine that requires a mix for lubrication.
I put a K&N cold air intake on my Ram. Always had good luck with K&N. Run them on all my Harleys. However, This thing made so much noise under the hood that it drove me nuts. I really believe that I lost power until I got up around 6K rpms. But who the heck runs their truck around at 6K rpms all the time. I took it off after just a week .
Nice fabrication work! I am an exceptionally lousy welder, but I do the best I can with my 140a flux core Fourney. Did a custom exhaust on my mustang (side exit) and also on my ram (Also side exit). I really wish I could predict the sound though, the setup on the ram (dual 2.5" into a magnaflow x-pipe/muffler (Knockoff) into separate large canister dynomax knockoffs. Very, very boomy sound. I can't stand it - I think maybe it will sound better with some chamber mufflers. I don't think Autozone even advertises it, but they do rent a harmonic balancer kit, specifically for dodges. They call it the long reach harmonic balancer installer. It works quite well, unfortunately I've had to use it three times for my hemi build. Man I wish I could figure out how to get rid of my tick after a new cam. I measured multiple times, tried custom pushrods, and settled on the 6.1L intake and custom length exhaust. I have it spec'd out for about 0.050 to 0.070" preload on the hydraulic lifters. I don't remember seeing the bleed hole on the truck water pump, but the front cover is quite a bit different on the truck. Although it's far from fast, I would dump in as much as I could, then let sit overnight, and then fill again the next day. During re-assembly, I would top off the radiator as I went. By the time I was done and fired it up, once I ran it to temp and shut it off long enough to cool down, I don't think it needed more than a cup of coolant. Those wheels looked great. I've never been a fan of the polished chrome wheels on the modern colorful cars, it just never looked right to me. I had some centerline forged polished aluminum wheels on my yellow SRT4, and they looked terrible, but man they were light!
I really enjoy your Video's very helpful. I was just wondering if all the Mods are Smog legal, in California we have to smog our cars and trucks every 2 years and now even the Diesel Pickups>>Bummer. Thanks.
You can wait on the tune til you find someone reputable for the hemis but I would suggest just like 3 dyno pulls to see what the power numbers are to compare to stock
hey my i enjoy a lot watching your videos, i have a 2010 grand cherokee srt8 with the 6.1 engine and just got a lifter/cam failure so i'll definitely need a new lifters and camshaft but really want to hear from you about what cam/lifters/springs i can go to squeeze a bit more of torque and power out of my engine, it has 119k miles on it and is my daily, any imput or tips from an expert like you will help me to chose what route to get, big thanks in advance
Habibi when installing new lifters or starting a car that haven’t started in a long time u need to prime the engine. How? Here’s how Put ur foot in the gas all the way and start the car the crank will move only and that car wont start do it 3 times so you don’t get any lifter issue and thank you for your contet❤️👍🏼
I just did this to my 2014 charger and it went flawlessly. Well... Almost. I now have a reading of 0 oil pressure at idle, and only goes to 25 when driving. Some recommend to check out the oil pickup tube, and replace the oil pressure sensor. I should also mention that I installed the high volume oil pump from melling as well + did mds delete. Any ideas what I did wrong? It was going perfect when I first started it, no low oil pressure symbol. I took it fkor the test drive, then all of the sudden I see a low oil pressure symbol show up when I came to an idle, about 2 minutes into the test drive.
@@ReignitedAuto I am in process of emailing you at the address you listed on your page, thanks. I am from PA, I am guessing you are nowhere near there! Hope to hear back, thanks.
wondering if you had issues with the right side header hitting the motor mount bolt . the early 6.1 -6.4 headers 09-14 were a different design and fit very well . but the 2015 and up srt style were longer by the collector (what you installed) and many issues with right side fitment hitting the MM bolt head .
Again, as previous videos, Great Work here and much appreciated! Only one question: Would the Lisle cooling system funnel work during refill even though this engine has the "burp" hole? I remember buying one so many years ago during my Chrysler Tech days... And it was PERFECT for those vehicles and many other makes as well. Very convenient funnel. I use the one I bought on a tool truck still, but never on a HEMI. Not yet, anyway. EDIT: And wanted to give my thoughts on a Catch Can. I was lead to believe, that IF you don't drive alot or warm the engine sufficiently, you're going to end up with more oil vapor? Sounds opposite to me, but I was under the impression short trips equate to more blow-by/crankcase gases than an engine that sees more run time?
The coolant funnels still work pretty well, I just prefer the vacuum bleed tool since it's faster. But the coolant funnel is definitely cheaper. I would absolutely still fill the system using the bleed port though, much faster. As far as oil vapors go, you will see more when the engine is cold, since the rings have not expanded yet and this pushes more oil vapor into the crankcase.
Love your videos man 💪🏽 I think this Is just bonkers putting out amazing content like this! You definitely inspire me to learn about mechanics! #Moparornocar
@@ReignitedAuto I sold a used 6.4L intake and half covers and intake boot on an LX/LD forum shipped for about $450. It was on my 5.7L in my Charger, before I traded the car and swapped back to 5.7 manifold. I think I paid $450 for it when I got the Charger and it was on there for 4 years.
@@danieljhalfacre833 Did you feel like there was a performance benefit to the srt manifold? I feel that when you first install a modification it can be difficult to know how much difference it made, but once you take it back off you really feel a difference.
@@ReignitedAuto on some forums, there’s a LOT of detail regarding the 6.4 intake to 5.7 swap. Supposed to be a direct plug n play option for 2013+ engines, with a proper PCM calibration. Apparently the wiring is the same (for Chargers, anyway) under the hood from a 345 to 392 car. Basically needed for the short runner activation. If you wanted to do that ‘10 with an SRT intake, you’d need the aftermarket circuit boss and MSD switch, programmed for 4800rpm to function. Just some simple wiring and a couple of taps, you’re controlling the short runners and they work! I bought a “kit” that another forum member had used until he went boosted and it included the circuit boss, MSD window switch and all hardware I needed. I used my 5.7 injectors and rail and throttle body. As for performance, it was felt by the ‘Ol butt dyno! Torque where I needed it down low, and a definitely push once past the 4800rpm window switch activation of the shorties. With SRT cam, headers and maybe rail and injectors, someone could write you a helluva 93 octane tune that would shove you back into the seat for sure. I used Diablo and programming via HemiFever.
I get really good deals on factory parts (including antifreeze) at the dealer where I used to work. Definitely a matter of taste on the Mopar intake, figured I might get a better viewer response with the K&N style. As you might be able to tell from the video, I don't really care which one it was 😂
hello good morning I have a doubt my ABS module got water and it failed but I put another one and it does not want to connect and I put another one and it does not want either and I put the computer to check but it does not give a signal I checked the fuses and they are all good. the connector has power but it doesn't want to connect to the module so I'm doing a hard reset to see if it already connects or maybe the fuse box doesn't work but the only fault that comes out is the module
That's it! I'm going to start creating content! All I hear is the usual generic rap beats or hip hop in muscle car videos!!! Mine will be ALL METAL... the music these car deserve!!! "We will be changing the windshield whipers today..." METAL MUSIC PLAYING!!!🤣🤣🤣
I have a 2009 Dodge Challenger RT with the six-speed manual 5.7 I would like to drop a 6.4 and place it a 5.7 what all do I need or can I just switch out and swap out Motors
Ever heard of a thread chaser? A tap will remove some material (metal )even though its the same size. Also last vid didnt even service the heads when you had them out? What a waste of time. just changed the springs lol.
As you stated. Customer already had a tune installed on the car. So its not the stock 5.7 tune. Do you think the car would actually be ok on the true stock 5.7 tune??
You had one lifter not pumping up. I would've shut it down right away and changed it. That hammering brenell's bearings, and doesn't help anything in the valve train.
I’m In the process of building my 15 rt and I can’t seem to find a good answer on who to use to tune and unlock it and it’s stumping everything I have planned
There's quite a few things that could be the cause, but I would start with the simple stuff, swap the spark plugs from that cylinder to a different one, then swap the coil from that cylinder to another different cylinder, but keep track of where you put them. Then drive the vehicle and see if the misfire is still on that cylinder or if it moved to the cylinder where you put the spark plugs, or the one where you put the coil. If the misfire is still on cylinder #5 it's time to do a compression check. Hope that's a good starting point. 👍
So I wanna do this but I wanna retain my MDS system. The 6.4mds cam is there but I wanna know if the computer won't like it and what tuning I'm going to have to do to it
You could soak them in oil beforehand, but the lifters actually come oiled to begin with. They aren't completely dry is what I'm saying. I've tried several methods to get all the air out of the lifters before installation but seems like no matter what they rattle a bit. 👍
I made this video a year or so before I started making videos about upgrading the oil pumps in these engines. Were I to do it again today I would absolutely install a Melling 10452HV pump 👍
Have a few questions been watching and slowly putting stuff together for my 5.7 hemi u used the 6.4 cam did u have to use 6.4 push rods? And after all u did do u need tuning ? I have a Diablo tuner and did the afm delete
Are headers worth it? thinking about doing to my 2009 1500 5.7 factory header bolts snapped for the second time at 128000. is there more power or longer life for the bolts? Thanks
In my opinion, yes headers are worth it. On this car definitely a nice bump in the mid range, and has the added benefit of fixing the broken bolts issue 👍
You're not wrong. Here's a tip for you though if you're interested. Right now the SRT catalytic converters are undergoing a recall, so these mid-pipes are being changed out at the dealer very commonly. Chrysler requires that the cats themselves be returned, but they don't want to ship the rest of the parts, so dealers cut the cats out and throw away the rest of the mid-pipes. So, if you drop by your local dealer, you might be able to pick up a set or two for free!
Don't stress about it too much, what's nice is that the manufacturers will make the harness to where no two plugs are alike, making it almost impossible to plug something into the wrong connector. Also, if you make use of your phone to take pictures as it's coming apart that helps a lot too. 👍
Two things, the first is easier than the second. 1: Looks like your upper 02 sensors aren't plugged in. 2: Looks like the timing is off. The good news about the timing is that you can be off by as much as two teeth before it starts hurting parts. Pop that front timing cover back off and get that timing set properly, plug in those 02 sensors and you should be in good shape.
Bro , I did this on my ‘13 Durango RT , but now Ive got a misfire on 2 and 3 and sometimes 5 . I already swapped around coil packs and that’s not a problem and I’ve got new plugs .Could I have over tightened something or what do you think, also it does it when I rev up then idle down and still sounds pretty chattery.
@papigrande42380 OK well I have some good news for you, this is very common and if I'm correct the fix is pretty simple. Watch this video here: ua-cam.com/video/jMziMqWRMk0/v-deo.html If this doesn't fix it I would be surprised. 👍
So didn’t find any misplaced pushrods but I thought maybe I didn’t get the exhaust quite right when reinstalled because I got a code that described to much oxygen in the exhaust . So I remounted those with very little adjustment made but my best seal I believe. What I did notice under the valve cover is my rocker arms move slightly from side to side, so I went ahead and went up to 18ft/lbs. with no noticeable change. What’s that about? Could it be causing the chatter. I’m gonna go ahead close it back up and hope for the best for now, thank you so much for the help and responding here. MOPAR FOR LIFE!!
Hey man, I was hoping you could help me out. I have a 2010 Charger with a hemi 5.7. I swapped it for a 6.1 but the car won't start. It will spin but not start. Any tips? Great videos btw.
Lots of potential issues here, but let's start with the basics. Did you swap the engine only and use the old PCM? Give me as many details as possible 👍
Yes, I did leave the old pcm. The 6.1 didn't have the mds system. That was the only difference. All of these codes came out on the computer. P0013 P0108 P0123 P0523. The 6.1 came out of a Chrysler 300 and was running good when I took it out.
@@reyhurtado5784 The code I'd be most concerned about is the first one P0013- basically the engine is not getting a good camshaft position signal, this is likely why it won't start. The 5.7 hemi in your car was equipped with variable valve timing, the 6.1 does not have that. Therefore the programming used between the two is likely different, so your stock computer is not reading the camshaft position correctly.
@@reyhurtado5784 nah, if you switch the pcm you won't be able to start the car either due to key compatibility issues. I think the best option would be to talk with a tuner, they will be able to write a tune for the 6.1 engine that you can load on your car to make it work. If you were wanting a tuner anyway this is a good time.
I just checked my Amazon history to be sure, they are from a company called OE wheels, model DG15. They are 20x9 but it doesn't specify what the offset is. It's either 15 or 18. Hope that helps!
Today i watched your videos the whole afternoon. I have a question: Does the 2009+ 5.7 head fit the 2004-2007 models ? Question nb 2: why do these hemis have rev limiters in park or neutral set to 4000rpm max ? And if you hold the gas pedal the rpm goes down to 3000rpm then even lower. Last question: i drive often on german autobahn and i want to be always in 5th gear. The problem is the fukin transmission downshifts even in manual mode. Doesn’t make any sense. You cannot even measure the torque at the dyno because of that. The old 4 gear chrysler transmission is keeping the gear you put (in manual mode) even if you floor it at 35mph in 4th gear it keeps it in fourth. This idiotic nag1 is downshifting at 250km/h i don’t understand. How to lock that shit in gear ? Thank you 🙏
For the first question, you can't fit the newer heads to the older blocks without changing a bunch of stuff, primarily the intake manifold, pushrods, ect... The park limiters are called a "safety" feature, it's basically Chrysler protecting themselves from idiots trying to blow up the motor under warranty. For the last question, the NAG is actually a Mercedes designed transmission, and it does all sorts of strange things programming wise.
hey guys, can we get this man to a million subs so he can show me how to forge the bottom end, swap the transmission, and then how to install a procharger?
This 😄
I second this😂😂
In earlier videos you said that the lifters slapping the cam due to low volume of oil was partly responsible for the cam failures, yet the lifters slapped the cam like crazy at startup. It seems to make sense to me to soak the lifters to reduce or eliminate all that clattering at initial startup. That’s the only thing in this series so far that I would do differently, out of an abundance of caution, to facilitate that engine lasting as long as possible. Great videos.
Just tap it in tap tap tap taperew....😂😂😂love that u used that clip one of my all time favorites
Haha, as soon as I said it I knew I had to put that in there!
Great sound effects with the silicone 😂 dont be ashame we all do it 🤷🏻♂️
😂
2nd! Looking forward to this episode!
The coolant vent plug on the water pump is either 1/4" NPT or 3/8" NPT, installed a standard radiator bleeder on both of mine, sure saves time on a coolant change!
Great content and info here!
Thanks for sticking with me Mark! 👍
Wow that sounds great. The car looks great as well. Everything factory stock in one form or another. The SRT headers look perfect.
I have to agree I think the SRT headers look amazing in there! Thanks for watching Richard 👍
Your video saved me I was able to change my camshaft and new lifters in my ram 1500 the #8 lobe was wasted thank you so much for your videos they have been a life saver and money saver!!! Thank you so much!
Love hearing that, thank you 👍
The plug on the water pump works the first time everytime. I found it after installing a jasper replacement that decided to airlock in the cooling system.
It was good seeing you drain the oil. I think that is a great trick for getting all of the antifreeze out of the pan.
It sounds great. I was thinking the computer wouldn't like the cam. But it seems to not see any difference in timing that it can't handle. It sounds strong just like you said.
The next episode provides a little more info on that......ooooh foreshadowing..... 😂
Wow, so you put a 6.4 cam in a stock 5.7 without a tune? Yup, I’m sold. I’m totally doing this mod. Thanks man, great vid.
It turns out in the end that the car did actually have a tune on it, but even so, it shows that a 5.7 based tune will easily run with a 6.4 cam 👍
Good tip masking tape over the ports will save you from dropping tap or dirt in those ports
You need open headers if you wanna hear the exhaust over the lifter tick for that first startup
Solid Tip! 😄
Tech tips are great...Happy telling me once again to tap it in...give it the Ole taparoo was much needed at this point in my life...thank you for that sir...
Car is looking good!
Interested to see the upcoming tuner episode 👍
Fantastic welding job on those cats Dr SRT. Thank you
Video helped me I rebuilt my 06 Chrysler to your vids man
Right on! 💪That's exactly what I want to hear!
After the initial loud clatter, that lifter noise is what mine ALWAYS sounds like. Wish I had the funds for this right now, but the header and midpipes looks like they are going to cost, unless I can find shorties to go with my factory mids. Great series, really appreciate this!!
Yea I was really trying to find a cost effective alternative to the mid-pipes, but I think you're right that's where the money is going to be...
You are an amazing instructor
Appreciate that my man! 👊
I went for some hellcat replicas on mine too, they're just a little different, but they're chrome black instead of black black. I like the series so far.
They just look right on a challenger! 👍
Love those rims with the red paint. Just looks badass. I've seen a good many Challengers with chrome or polished aluminum, that's great if that's the look you want, just not for me. Only chrome I like is the Scat Pack Bee.
Love the wheel choice that’s what I’ve got on my car 😎
It just looks right! 👍
Thanks for the videos! I was able to complete my own cam/lifter swap watching this channel. There were some details left out, but I was able to get through it watching more detailed videos around ytube.
I love your username 😄 and good job doing the work yourself 👏
@@ReignitedAuto Haha thanks. I called mmx and they said to use thicker oil, like 10w30 or 10w40 instead of 0-40, what do you think?
this car has never been to the drag strip, just normal driving, 130k miles, was running perfect before. im putting in a new oil pump and oring with the 0-40 first.
@@digitalme4404 I'm not a fan of increasing viscosity only because it's essentially masking the issue. I'd want to know why it's low when it never was before.
@@ReignitedAuto I agree with you. I was cleaning out the oil pan with a blue paper towel and saw little silver pieces on it. Not a lot, any is enough to be concerned. So, I went to Dodge and bought two cam bolts 6$, and 16 magnet antennas from oreillys 2$each, Im going to pull the cam back out to see whats up. Use the magnets to keep the lifters from dropping and having to pull the heads to put them back in. If lifters and cam good, then guess I will check the main and rod bearings next using a screw to rotate them out from the oil pan. If you have any other ideas, let me know. I have a new Melling oil pump and OEM pickup tube going in also on Monday.
this channel is going to do very well.
I appreciate that and thank you for watching! 👍
Great content ... again. I vote that your next "less than $50" mod should be adding Mopar hood struts to get rid of the prop rod. They'll give it a more up to date look and gets the prop rod out of the way. I have a CAI ... as an appearance mod.
Rollin you're dead right about those hood shocks 😂 When I first popped the hood on this thing I was like, "Are you kidding me?" LOL
Weight savings my friend, everything counts as these challys are heavy as hell...
Naturally aspirated engines generally don't have to many problems with blow by. The catch can is really a must on a modern boosted engine.
I'd definitely agree with you there 👍
My JLT Oil Separator catches about 1.0 - 1.5 ounces every 2,500 - 3,000 miles.
@@RollinIsbell I get that everyone likes how much oil the system catches, I'm just not sure why it matters? So what if your engine burns that oil instead? If your intake runners are goopy, do you even know? Beyond it possibly crusting up the valve stems I'm just not sure I see the benefits? I could be way off here, would be nice to get done additional data on long term usage of a catch can system. Preferably not directly from a manufacturer of a catch can 😄
@@ReignitedAuto Well ... in theory ... the blow-by oil can cause a reduction in octane through contaminating the fuel.
Though, I also wonder if trapping the oil is denying some lubrication to the top of the engine.
@@RollinIsbell lubrication to the top of the engine ? That oil goes in your intake and gets burned or pools in your intake what are you going to lubricate with it ? This ain't a 2 stroke engine that requires a mix for lubrication.
those threads should have been chased when the heads were off. this is how metal flilings/shavings get into the cylinders.
You're right, I just forgot until that point 😄.
Congrats! Well done. Can wait to see the next video! A have a few questions but I might wait till your next live event...
For sure, thinking about doing another one on Friday, what say you?
@@ReignitedAuto well that could work
Great job and video thank you Sir
Bought these wheels for my ram, very nice 👌
No question they just look good!
I put a K&N cold air intake on my Ram. Always had good luck with K&N. Run them on all my Harleys. However, This thing made so much noise under the hood that it drove me nuts. I really believe that I lost power until I got up around 6K rpms. But who the heck runs their truck around at 6K rpms all the time. I took it off after just a week .
You know what would accent the black rim? Some type of stripe running with the body line across the top of the panels, IF you like that sort of thing.
Great video my friend 👍😁
Thanks Dave!
Nice fabrication work! I am an exceptionally lousy welder, but I do the best I can with my 140a flux core Fourney. Did a custom exhaust on my mustang (side exit) and also on my ram (Also side exit). I really wish I could predict the sound though, the setup on the ram (dual 2.5" into a magnaflow x-pipe/muffler (Knockoff) into separate large canister dynomax knockoffs. Very, very boomy sound. I can't stand it - I think maybe it will sound better with some chamber mufflers.
I don't think Autozone even advertises it, but they do rent a harmonic balancer kit, specifically for dodges. They call it the long reach harmonic balancer installer. It works quite well, unfortunately I've had to use it three times for my hemi build.
Man I wish I could figure out how to get rid of my tick after a new cam. I measured multiple times, tried custom pushrods, and settled on the 6.1L intake and custom length exhaust. I have it spec'd out for about 0.050 to 0.070" preload on the hydraulic lifters.
I don't remember seeing the bleed hole on the truck water pump, but the front cover is quite a bit different on the truck. Although it's far from fast, I would dump in as much as I could, then let sit overnight, and then fill again the next day. During re-assembly, I would top off the radiator as I went. By the time I was done and fired it up, once I ran it to temp and shut it off long enough to cool down, I don't think it needed more than a cup of coolant.
Those wheels looked great. I've never been a fan of the polished chrome wheels on the modern colorful cars, it just never looked right to me. I had some centerline forged polished aluminum wheels on my yellow SRT4, and they looked terrible, but man they were light!
Thanks Tucker, I love welding! You're going to see a lot more of it on the channel soon as I start building the stainless exhaust for the C10!
I really enjoy your Video's very helpful. I was just wondering if all the Mods are Smog legal, in California we have to smog our cars and trucks every 2 years and now even the Diesel Pickups>>Bummer. Thanks.
Great video! Thanks.
Surprised the K&N didn't drum up the usual negative armies lol. The Mopar would definitely stick out in this bullet though
Hah, I was waiting for them myself, they must be on vacation right now.
You can wait on the tune til you find someone reputable for the hemis but I would suggest just like 3 dyno pulls to see what the power numbers are to compare to stock
Stay tuned for Ep4 for an interesting update regarding the tune...
hey my i enjoy a lot watching your videos, i have a 2010 grand cherokee srt8 with the 6.1 engine and just got a lifter/cam failure so i'll definitely need a new lifters and camshaft but really want to hear from you about what cam/lifters/springs i can go to squeeze a bit more of torque and power out of my engine, it has 119k miles on it and is my daily, any imput or tips from an expert like you will help me to chose what route to get, big thanks in advance
Careful with that tuner. It killed my PCM. FS1 just shipped my new one out.
Stay "tuned" for the next episode to find out 🤔
Sweet !!!!
Great videos, but was wondering why you didn't run the tap thru the bolt holes while heads were off
For the simple reason that I didn't remember until after I got the heads back on 😄
Habibi when installing new lifters or starting a car that haven’t started in a long time u need to prime the engine. How?
Here’s how
Put ur foot in the gas all the way and start the car the crank will move only and that car wont start do it 3 times so you don’t get any lifter issue and thank you for your contet❤️👍🏼
I just did this to my 2014 charger and it went flawlessly. Well... Almost. I now have a reading of 0 oil pressure at idle, and only goes to 25 when driving. Some recommend to check out the oil pickup tube, and replace the oil pressure sensor. I should also mention that I installed the high volume oil pump from melling as well + did mds delete. Any ideas what I did wrong? It was going perfect when I first started it, no low oil pressure symbol. I took it fkor the test drive, then all of the sudden I see a low oil pressure symbol show up when I came to an idle, about 2 minutes into the test drive.
Does watching Ads help the channel, and does the length make a difference being some are over 20 minutes?
You know, supposedly it does, but let's be honest, 1 view of an ad is worth like .0000000000001 cents. I'm not concerned if you're skipping them 👍
@@ReignitedAuto I let them play out, I just was curious about duration and revenue share. Thank you as always.
Chasing threads should be done by hand js, but I'm overly careful
You know the drill by now. Just commenting
Great vid happy Gilmore 🤣 classic
I had to do it! 😂
I'll buy your old wheels for my 06 Charger if they will fit! I love them.
Indeed you can, where are you located?
@@ReignitedAuto I am in process of emailing you at the address you listed on your page, thanks. I am from PA, I am guessing you are nowhere near there! Hope to hear back, thanks.
great video man, would you say there is much difference between the pre 2015 hemi vs say a 2017 hemi ?
wondering if you had issues with the right side header hitting the motor mount bolt . the early 6.1 -6.4 headers 09-14 were a different design and fit very well . but the 2015 and up srt style were longer by the collector (what you installed) and many issues with right side fitment hitting the MM bolt head .
Again, as previous videos, Great Work here and much appreciated!
Only one question:
Would the Lisle cooling system funnel work during refill even though this engine has the "burp" hole? I remember buying one so many years ago during my Chrysler Tech days... And it was PERFECT for those vehicles and many other makes as well. Very convenient funnel. I use the one I bought on a tool truck still, but never on a HEMI. Not yet, anyway.
EDIT: And wanted to give my thoughts on a Catch Can. I was lead to believe, that IF you don't drive alot or warm the engine sufficiently, you're going to end up with more oil vapor? Sounds opposite to me, but I was under the impression short trips equate to more blow-by/crankcase gases than an engine that sees more run time?
The coolant funnels still work pretty well, I just prefer the vacuum bleed tool since it's faster. But the coolant funnel is definitely cheaper. I would absolutely still fill the system using the bleed port though, much faster.
As far as oil vapors go, you will see more when the engine is cold, since the rings have not expanded yet and this pushes more oil vapor into the crankcase.
Got it hardest part of the build is the oil plug torqued at 4000lbs.
😂 Remember to always use a 3/4 rattle gun to reinstall it!
Love your videos man 💪🏽 I think this Is just bonkers putting out amazing content like this! You definitely inspire me to learn about mechanics! #Moparornocar
Heck Ya! Get into it 💪
Almost surprised you didn't go with an SRT intake manifold as well.
Thought about it, but man, the cost of even a stock replacement manifold is pretty pricey, kind of destroys the "budget" aspect of this build.
@@ReignitedAuto I sold a used 6.4L intake and half covers and intake boot on an LX/LD forum shipped for about $450. It was on my 5.7L in my Charger, before I traded the car and swapped back to 5.7 manifold. I think I paid $450 for it when I got the Charger and it was on there for 4 years.
@@danieljhalfacre833 Did you feel like there was a performance benefit to the srt manifold? I feel that when you first install a modification it can be difficult to know how much difference it made, but once you take it back off you really feel a difference.
@@ReignitedAuto on some forums, there’s a LOT of detail regarding the 6.4 intake to 5.7 swap. Supposed to be a direct plug n play option for 2013+ engines, with a proper PCM calibration. Apparently the wiring is the same (for Chargers, anyway) under the hood from a 345 to 392 car. Basically needed for the short runner activation. If you wanted to do that ‘10 with an SRT intake, you’d need the aftermarket circuit boss and MSD switch, programmed for 4800rpm to function. Just some simple wiring and a couple of taps, you’re controlling the short runners and they work!
I bought a “kit” that another forum member had used until he went boosted and it included the circuit boss, MSD window switch and all hardware I needed. I used my 5.7 injectors and rail and throttle body.
As for performance, it was felt by the ‘Ol butt dyno! Torque where I needed it down low, and a definitely push once past the 4800rpm window switch activation of the shorties.
With SRT cam, headers and maybe rail and injectors, someone could write you a helluva 93 octane tune that would shove you back into the seat for sure. I used Diablo and programming via HemiFever.
So why the MOPAR antifreeze and for everyone. The MOPAR coldair kit is way easier to install and looks a bit nicer. More of a factory install.
I get really good deals on factory parts (including antifreeze) at the dealer where I used to work. Definitely a matter of taste on the Mopar intake, figured I might get a better viewer response with the K&N style. As you might be able to tell from the video, I don't really care which one it was 😂
hello good morning I have a doubt my ABS module got water and it failed but I put another one and it does not want to connect and I put another one and it does not want either and I put the computer to check but it does not give a signal I checked the fuses and they are all good. the connector has power but it doesn't want to connect to the module so I'm doing a hard reset to see if it already connects or maybe the fuse box doesn't work but the only fault that comes out is the module
Anytime I have an open intake port I shove a red shop rag into it to make sure nothing can fall in.
Always a good move!
That's it! I'm going to start creating content! All I hear is the usual generic rap beats or hip hop in muscle car videos!!! Mine will be ALL METAL... the music these car deserve!!! "We will be changing the windshield whipers today..." METAL MUSIC PLAYING!!!🤣🤣🤣
I'm gonna put polka in the next video 😂
@@ReignitedAuto I'm down!!!!lol
I have a 2009 Dodge Challenger RT with the six-speed manual 5.7 I would like to drop a 6.4 and place it a 5.7 what all do I need or can I just switch out and swap out Motors
After you clean the threads give them out with air and Brake Parts cleaner?
There is someone selling a 6.4 intake manifold for low but doesn’t have fuel injectors, can I use my originals or what’s the best advice on this?
Ever heard of a thread chaser? A tap will remove some material (metal )even though its the same size. Also last vid didnt even service the heads when you had them out? What a waste of time. just changed the springs lol.
What catch can did you go with? Where can I purchase the same one?
Please make a supercharger install 😂
Believe me I want to. If you've got one I'd love to put it on!
As you stated. Customer already had a tune installed on the car. So its not the stock 5.7 tune. Do you think the car would actually be ok on the true stock 5.7 tune??
Wouldn't it have been easier and cleaner to chase the intake threads while the heads were off?
If I had remembered to do it then, then yes 😄
You had one lifter not pumping up. I would've shut it down right away and changed it. That hammering brenell's bearings, and doesn't help anything in the valve train.
That's old school thinking my man, these hydraulic lifters will rattle on startup when first installed with no damage.
Left out a lot of info how do I reinstall the coolant tubes
Why Didn't you chase the head threads while the heads were off the car less chance of trash getting in the ports ???
That would have been smarter wouldn't it? 😄 I honestly just didn't think about it until that time.
@@ReignitedAuto Sorry for sounding critical love your videos
@@chriscarvell126 no worries at all my man 👍
I bought a K&N CAI for my twin turbo truck. The installation was a pain, parts were missing, all the clamps were way too small, and it looks terrible.
Would nt it have been a good idea to put a piece of shop towel or tape up the intake runners to avoid anything falling in them
Definitely if you're a novice that's a great idea. I've been doing this so long that I don't do it anymore, you learn how to be careful in that area 😄
How would I know what size tap to use? Are there specs for the threads on these bolts?
I’m In the process of building my 15 rt and I can’t seem to find a good answer on who to use to tune and unlock it and it’s stumping everything I have planned
Next episode you'll see what happens with my tune..... Thanks for watching!
Y does my 2014 challenger srt 8 have a miss fire on cylinder 5. What can be the cause of this? Thank U and much appreciated
There's quite a few things that could be the cause, but I would start with the simple stuff, swap the spark plugs from that cylinder to a different one, then swap the coil from that cylinder to another different cylinder, but keep track of where you put them. Then drive the vehicle and see if the misfire is still on that cylinder or if it moved to the cylinder where you put the spark plugs, or the one where you put the coil. If the misfire is still on cylinder #5 it's time to do a compression check. Hope that's a good starting point. 👍
@@ReignitedAuto done all that so I think it’s time for a compression test. Thank u very much 👍🏼
So I wanna do this but I wanna retain my MDS system. The 6.4mds cam is there but I wanna know if the computer won't like it and what tuning I'm going to have to do to it
It's still best to optimize the setup with a tune, but it should run decent without it. I don't see it throwing codes or anything.
What's that connector that as hanging next to the cat??? Have the same one on mine after installing long tubes on my car
What are the torque specs to the timing cover bolts ?
Can you not pump up the lifters before you put them in he engine?
You could soak them in oil beforehand, but the lifters actually come oiled to begin with. They aren't completely dry is what I'm saying. I've tried several methods to get all the air out of the lifters before installation but seems like no matter what they rattle a bit. 👍
Have a 2008 Dodge Ram 1500 5.7L Hemi. Want to upgrade the cam and lifters, any suggestions on brands and where to order them?
Honestly, I don't have much experience with aftermarket cams. Most of my experience is replacing the parts with stock equivalent parts.
Is the 1 thumb down the one LS guy pissed about the c10 build?
😄 I certainly hope so!
Why not replace the oil pump with a Hellcat model?
I made this video a year or so before I started making videos about upgrading the oil pumps in these engines. Were I to do it again today I would absolutely install a Melling 10452HV pump 👍
What’s the torque spec for the oil plug
Have a few questions been watching and slowly putting stuff together for my 5.7 hemi u used the 6.4 cam did u have to use 6.4 push rods? And after all u did do u need tuning ? I have a Diablo tuner and did the afm delete
you don't need the 6.4 pushrods, but to take full advantage of the camshaft a custom tune is best.
Are headers worth it? thinking about doing to my 2009 1500 5.7 factory header bolts snapped for the second time at 128000. is there more power or longer life for the bolts?
Thanks
In my opinion, yes headers are worth it. On this car definitely a nice bump in the mid range, and has the added benefit of fixing the broken bolts issue 👍
Where u located bro ?? Need a 09 charger rt to work on for your channel??
Those SRT flanges are hard to find
You're not wrong. Here's a tip for you though if you're interested. Right now the SRT catalytic converters are undergoing a recall, so these mid-pipes are being changed out at the dealer very commonly. Chrysler requires that the cats themselves be returned, but they don't want to ship the rest of the parts, so dealers cut the cats out and throw away the rest of the mid-pipes. So, if you drop by your local dealer, you might be able to pick up a set or two for free!
i honestly want to try this but all them wires give me anxiety.
Don't stress about it too much, what's nice is that the manufacturers will make the harness to where no two plugs are alike, making it almost impossible to plug something into the wrong connector. Also, if you make use of your phone to take pictures as it's coming apart that helps a lot too. 👍
@22:28 there goes that Hemi tick
would have been nice to know which catch can that is...
I believe I got it from Speedlogix 👍
@@ReignitedAuto Thank you sir
Excuse me but you had the heads off the engine, that my friend would have been the time to run a thread chaser or tap down the holes!
That would be true except for one thing: I completely forgot until I got the heads back on 😄
Just finished swap aaaannd I got some troubles codes 😤
P000B
P0016
P0032
P0052
Two things, the first is easier than the second.
1: Looks like your upper 02 sensors aren't plugged in.
2: Looks like the timing is off.
The good news about the timing is that you can be off by as much as two teeth before it starts hurting parts.
Pop that front timing cover back off and get that timing set properly, plug in those 02 sensors and you should be in good shape.
Bro , I did this on my ‘13 Durango RT , but now Ive got a misfire on 2 and 3 and sometimes 5 . I already swapped around coil packs and that’s not a problem and I’ve got new plugs .Could I have over tightened something or what do you think, also it does it when I rev up then idle down and still sounds pretty chattery.
What exactly did you install?
I did the cam and lifters and all new gaskets. Cleaned the hell out of it, new plugs and sultan of spark coil packs
@papigrande42380 OK well I have some good news for you, this is very common and if I'm correct the fix is pretty simple.
Watch this video here: ua-cam.com/video/jMziMqWRMk0/v-deo.html
If this doesn't fix it I would be surprised. 👍
So didn’t find any misplaced pushrods but I thought maybe I didn’t get the exhaust quite right when reinstalled because I got a code that described to much oxygen in the exhaust . So I remounted those with very little adjustment made but my best seal I believe. What I did notice under the valve cover is my rocker arms move slightly from side to side, so I went ahead and went up to 18ft/lbs. with no noticeable change. What’s that about? Could it be causing the chatter. I’m gonna go ahead close it back up and hope for the best for now, thank you so much for the help and responding here. MOPAR FOR LIFE!!
Just tap it in lmao 🤣
keep those polished aluminum wheels! they will be back in style soon.
Instead of removing the plug on the water pump.... Just install a purge valve.
Hey man, I was hoping you could help me out. I have a 2010 Charger with a hemi 5.7. I swapped it for a 6.1 but the car won't start. It will spin but not start. Any tips? Great videos btw.
Lots of potential issues here, but let's start with the basics. Did you swap the engine only and use the old PCM? Give me as many details as possible 👍
Yes, I did leave the old pcm. The 6.1 didn't have the mds system. That was the only difference. All of these codes came out on the computer. P0013 P0108 P0123 P0523. The 6.1 came out of a Chrysler 300 and was running good when I took it out.
@@reyhurtado5784 The code I'd be most concerned about is the first one P0013- basically the engine is not getting a good camshaft position signal, this is likely why it won't start. The 5.7 hemi in your car was equipped with variable valve timing, the 6.1 does not have that. Therefore the programming used between the two is likely different, so your stock computer is not reading the camshaft position correctly.
What would you suggest I do? Do you think I should switch the pcm as well? Will the computer be compatible?
@@reyhurtado5784 nah, if you switch the pcm you won't be able to start the car either due to key compatibility issues. I think the best option would be to talk with a tuner, they will be able to write a tune for the 6.1 engine that you can load on your car to make it work. If you were wanting a tuner anyway this is a good time.
What wheel size / tires did you use ?
I know this is old but does anyone know if thats the +18mm offset replicas from AM?
I just checked my Amazon history to be sure, they are from a company called OE wheels, model DG15. They are 20x9 but it doesn't specify what the offset is. It's either 15 or 18. Hope that helps!
@@ReignitedAuto Thank you so much for looking!
Do the srt manifolds and mids fit the R/T AWD chargers though?
That is indeed a great question, I have not worked on enough of them to know. My gut says no, but I'm not certain.
Today i watched your videos the whole afternoon. I have a question: Does the 2009+ 5.7 head fit the 2004-2007 models ?
Question nb 2: why do these hemis have rev limiters in park or neutral set to 4000rpm max ? And if you hold the gas pedal the rpm goes down to 3000rpm then even lower.
Last question: i drive often on german autobahn and i want to be always in 5th gear. The problem is the fukin transmission downshifts even in manual mode. Doesn’t make any sense. You cannot even measure the torque at the dyno because of that.
The old 4 gear chrysler transmission is keeping the gear you put (in manual mode) even if you floor it at 35mph in 4th gear it keeps it in fourth. This idiotic nag1 is downshifting at 250km/h i don’t understand. How to lock that shit in gear ?
Thank you 🙏
For the first question, you can't fit the newer heads to the older blocks without changing a bunch of stuff, primarily the intake manifold, pushrods, ect...
The park limiters are called a "safety" feature, it's basically Chrysler protecting themselves from idiots trying to blow up the motor under warranty.
For the last question, the NAG is actually a Mercedes designed transmission, and it does all sorts of strange things programming wise.
Let the NAG1 do what it wants. You won't be able to control it. It's very weird but very effective for what it does.