Whiteline End Link Install FRS / BRZ / 86
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- I've been dealing with a clunk in the front suspension ever since I brought the car home. After a bit of investigation, I was able to identify the culprit as the end links! We're throwing a set of Whiteline adjustable end links on there to fix the issue.
Instagram: / thekevinvo
Isnt the angle of the swaybar where it meets the end link meant to be parallel to the ground when locking the end link?
So the clunking isn’t from the endlink smacking against the lower control arm? I literally just took off my OEM endlinks and no more clunking. I’m also a little confused why you wouldn’t make the endlink smaller due to the lowering.
Kevin once again saving my me money’s🤘
Kevin’s the FT86 Chris fix lol
Always happy to help!
Did u have to put grease on the end links? Cuz I don’t see the insert thing for them
(Yeah, one year later and I’m having this issue again lmao)
There is no way in hell mines came off that easily 😂I had to lower and raise the LCA to get that sucker out
Maybe I missed it but you didn't mention if you should tighten once the preload is removed on one side or should you remove preload from both sides before you start tightening the end links?
You can tighten the side you removed preload first and then adjust the other side to match.
what is preload exactly? you make sure there is none so you put a load on first? I'm so confused. Another thing is, they get installed both sides and then both adjusted under load?
Thank you for sharing the crisp details as usual! I just have a question. So after you find the "sweet spot" with the car lowered, then it's okay to lift up the car again, remove the wheel and tighten using wrenches? Or are you supposed to tighten while the car is down? Could you also just have the car on jackstands from the beginning then use a jack on each side of the car to compress the suspension to put it "under load"?
NO REPLY IN OVER A YEAR....
EVERYONE HAS THE SAME QUESTION...???WHERE EXACTALY IS THIS ADJUSTMENT SUPPOSE TO BE...??? What exactly is being adjusted...and why would a clunk go away if you just put a new end link in at exactly the same length??? I have this exact car with these exact endlinks and this exact set up...and there is STILL a clunk WTF...THESE VIDEO FROM KEVIN VO SUCK
@@johnnygoesfast9397 I did what made the most sense in my case. I build some blocks out of 2x4 dimensions about 12x12. 4 of them then I jacked the car up and dropped the car on the 4 blocks so it's in its "natural position" then just replaced the sway bar and adjusted them that way. Basically to a point where the links have to tension. However, if you really think about it, adding tension from that point on as desired will technically add rigidity to the sway bar (adding preload) which shouldn't be a bad thing if you want more rigidity. Leaving it too lose or far from the sweet spot (opposite to preload) will have more negative effects than if you preload. Since it will feel like a "lazy response" from the sway bar, or delayed in stiffness during cornering, meanwhile preloading should be an immediate response. I hope that helps!
@@johnnygoesfast9397 correction: "To a point where the links have no tension"
Great info as well!!!In order to balance the both 4 sides in front/rear to reach the goal without preload. Do I need to do it at the same time with the rear end link?
No you don't have to replace the rears at the same time. They're independent so you can do it whenever necessary.
Thank you for the vid! My Ksport coil overs came with adjustable end links for my 07 Fit and they started bending due to loose lock collar and not properly adjusting endlink with load. Also just ordered a set of whitelines since they seem like a much sturdier design than the ones that came with my Ksports 😅
For a normal stock car, if both left and right links are the same length, there shouldn't any pre-load, but the most important is :- we should adjust the links' length to that the sway bar's pivots are horizontal to the ground (this point you didn't mention).
Thanks I have these. Hopefully this will help with the knocking.
I'm not hearing anymore clunking after the install!
Thank you. I wish I'd found this video a couple years ago, that's how long the clunking noise has been driving me nuts 😬. I bought some endlinks but need to return them because I got 10mm instead of 12mm studs. My question is, how much clearance is acceptable from the lower ball joint to the lower control arm? Seems really close so maybe I need to get shorter endlinks?
you said to put the wheels back on before tightening but in the video you're tightening them with the wheel off.
Put the wheel back on and put the car on the ground to adjust them so there's no preload. Once it's adjusted you can take the wheel off and tighten the jam nuts.
Wow man thanks Kevin... Been trying to adjust it for over quite sometime... wow man thanks alot.. Now I can finally rest and not worry about it... thanks man... Keep them videos coming...
Happy to help! Appreciate the support!
Love your content man! Short and to the point, with great camera angles.
Appreciate the support!
What socket wrench were you using.never seen one like that before?
It's a pass through socket set.
@@KevinVo just ordered the Harbour freight special. Thanks man
Can you help clarify a step here. Doing the same for my GR86.
When you put the tires on and got the car off the ramp you ensured the end link had no preload. Do you then jack the car up again on stands and then tighten it and then put the tires and drop it? And then you have no preload?
You shouldn't need to take the wheels off to tighten them. You'll be able to reach them behind the wheel, but yes.
When you adjusted for no preload how did you access the endlinks with the wheel in the way? Could I turn the wheel or should I find some blocks to put the car down on for room to reach them? I have cheaper endlinks that came with my fortune auto coilovers but there’s a good amount of clunk sounds so I wanted to try this. Worst comes to worst I buy the Whiteline ones.
I just lowered the car unto some blocks of 2x4 that I use when I do an oil change so I can get under the car. That should give you just enough room to access the endlinks when the car is on the ground. Hopefully that works for you!
Depends on how long your car is. Mine is ~1" lower than stock and I was able to reach the end links by just laying on my back on the floor.
Hi Kevin, excellent video as always. Just wondering which version you used? Whiteline has two versions available KLC179 and KLC180-195 (shorter). I'm only lowered 1" so I'm thinking KLC179 will suit my needs fine and won't bind with the strut.
2nd
So what the best setup actually? with preload or with Zero preload?
Ideally, you want to have zero preload. You can adjust the preload to dial in your corner balancing.
Coz i fewl some little bit understeer for zero prelod.. thanks for advice 👍
@@KevinVo
If the end link is:
End link shorter = stiffer sway bar action
End link longer = softer sway bar action
Is this correct??
@@Adilyala End link length shouldn't affect the sway bar stiffness. It's the sway bar leverage (distance between the axis and the end link attachment point) that is used to adjust the sway bar stiffness.
this answered my problem with t
he clunk! thanks!
Happy to help!
Hey Kevin. I noticed that you put a key behind the endlink to take it off but I don’t have a nut behind mine and mine are the OEM. Help SOS please 😢
The OEM endlinks have an opening on the stud to insert an allen key into to prevent it from spinning. Use and allen key and a pass through wrench to get it off.
So on my right side of the car then space in between the middle of the end link is the same but on the left the top gap is smaller than the bottom is that a problem or is it the same lengths as the right side still
It's not really a problem as long as they aren't over extended and adjusted properly. It just means that when they were installed, one of the ends were extended a bit longer than the other.
did you use the factory washer that goes on the other side of the end link? i just bought a pair of godspeeds and about to install
No, only used what came with the whiteline end links.
do you have to remove the bumper and under tray? thanks
You shouldn't have to remove the bumper or the undertray.
Thanks man
So if I maxed out my front coilovers, do I need to make the adjustable end links the same size as my oem endlinks?
This exactly why I'm on the video, I waxed out the front coilover on my brz by the oem endlinks are too short, my next option was to go longer endlinks to be able to reach the coilover but idk if its bad ro have it adjusted loner then oem
@@rcktbny_brz how about using the coilovers properly and not ruining the handling of the car just for the aesthetics. That’s super gayboy shit.
When I’m tightening end link nut, the bolt inside spins along with the nut. I can’t tighten it
There should be a place on the bolt you can place a wrench to stop it from spinning. Either that or a place to insert an Allen socket at the end of the bolt.
Thank u for the video. A question. Is there a chance that the bolts to lock the adjustment come loose?
If tightened down correctly they should not come loose but it's always good to periodically check.
@@KevinVo Thank you... 👍👍👍
I got the Perrin endlinks but didnt know they were for stock height so im hearing some clunk, got whiteline but didnt know how long i needed to adjust the height. Thanks for the video!
Should I get Perrin endlinks for the front and keep the stock ones in the back?
You are the only guy other than me that also has stance coilovers.mine were on there as well when I got it.have you had any trouble with them?mine make a weird sound when I turn
Haven't had any trouble with them other than some clunking at times. I didn't really look into it too much and they're off the car now. Have you checked to make sure everything is tightened properly and checked your end links?
Kevin Vo I had the same problem as you with the endlinks but there’s something not quite right 🤷🏻♂️other than the sound they work fine. Probably will just end up replacing them someday
@@henryunruh4445 I found them to be a bit bouncy so I'm glad they're off the car haha I'm going to be installing some new coilovers on the car soon. For now, lowering springs will do.
Kevin Vo well honestly I wouldn’t even know how these are compared to others lol mines the only car on coilovers I’ve driven.not a lot of opportunities to check out other cars around here.i have the most modified car in my town and I don’t even have a lot.so I gotta resort to the good ol UA-cam for opinions lol
@@henryunruh4445 I'm sure once you get them swapped out you'll appreciate the upgrade.
How long did the end links last without noise coming?
Are you talking about the old ones?
@@KevinVo new ones
@@solace4114 the new ones have survived 2 years of track use and still don't make a sound.
@@KevinVo ok im going to get them
Do you need to have the car on the ground or is this doable while up on jack stands?
You can install them while on jack stands, but you need to adjust the preload with the suspension loaded.
@@KevinVo so basically just have them snug while on jack stands then tighten them while the car is under load?
@@lilchunnky78 yeah so just leave the locking nuts loose so you can spin the adjustment part of the endlink when the car is on the ground. Then you can adjust it to the point where there is least resistance when it's on the ground and then you can tighten the jam nuts.
@@KevinVo thanks