This helped...thanks! I ended up using jack stands and a jack to make the preload adjustment. I just lifted the brake rotor with the jack and made the adjustments from there. Thanks again
I’m not sure I understand the value of this video. You are working on a lowered car and you match the length of the factory endlinks. You then say that final adjustment will be done on the car with suspension loaded, but then you never go over those details... What is the goal here. I can install my adjustable endlinks at any height and the bar will just rotate to reach them. How do I know aim using the correct length?
At stock ride height your end links should be perpendicular to the sway bar for proper leverage. Also there should not be any forceful stretching to connect end links otherwise an uneven preload could be set into your sway bars and mess with steering feel & body control on turns.
@@TK-gd9td that's what the video misses, the pre-load to me is when one side isn't level with the other, tensioning the anti roll bar. You should be able to slip both ends of the drop links in the both the bar and the damper without having to force the bar to align, that's where the adjustable drop link comes in to account slight variation in ride height L to R
@@bilaltariq7819 I understand corner weight is done with the bars disconnected. Once the rideheight and corner weighting is done the roll bar is connected and adjusted to be free from static tension.
@@cw205mi16 That's true but some cars run a specific amount of preload on the bar and you have to measure it by checking the relative weights of each corner. I'm not really sure why they do it to be honest
Very valid question. It's best practice to set and tighten off the links whilst the suspension is loaded is to allow for the sway bar to be in a neutral position so the correct amount of pre-load can be set.
The reason is that there is no guarantee that the wheels droop the same amount when unloaded, so if you just tighten everything up with the wheels at full droop, there is a very strong probability that the bar will be preloaded (twisted away from the relaxed position) when the car is on the ground.
Yes. You need the wheels at their normal operating height to properly size the end links so that there is no preload on the sway bar (downward or upward force)
Hi there, i have one simple question, does an adjustable sway bar end improve handling in a higher speeds? With stock suspension and stock sway bar? Would it be roght with all stock, put a longer sway bar end sow it force more the wheels at high speed courner?
Will do nothing but change the way the sway bar works (not in a good way ) you get endlinks on after lowering a car to put the sway bar back to its original rang of motion
Quick question got these endlinks for the fk7 and im on bc racing coils that came with their own enlinks lowered the car to where i wanted it but the bc endlinks were lower than what the whiteline ones could go. I put on the whiteline ones now i have a clunking noise from the sway bar im wondering its to tall for the ride height is that a thing ?
I’m trying to buy these for my mk7 gti. My stock one hit my sway bar these aren’t to expensive hopefully they are shorter by a bit or adjust it to not hit the sway bar?
those adjustable sway bar end links always seem to come loose. they need to put some type of locking mechanism on them. the lock nuts don't stay locked lol
Unsure if you've gotten your answer by now, but it's to ensure zero preload on the ARB basically. If you had the front suspension fully extended, or partially extended, and fit the droplink (like with OEM droplinks on a lowered vehicle), when you settle the car onto its own weight, the ARB is already under load (preload), this can affect handling as the ARB is already under tension before you're even putting cornering load onto it.
When putting the car under load for fonal adjustment, does it need to be level front to rear? Or can I just roll the front or rear up on a pair of ramps instead of four?
Having the full weight of the car on the ground is plenty, Turning the wheel will make the one side possibly bind up. Hence, its better to have the wheels straight to tighten/adjust.
Hey Ian, We dont have them off the shelf for the camry, however we have a lot of different sizes. We just need two things, stud size and length you need. Our stud sizes are only 10mm and 12mm.
zero preload on the bar is the bar ends as close as possible to parallel with the ground. On the endlinks, once installed, rotating the turnbuckle it will get to a point where the buckle spins freely back and fourth with little to no effort, go one way its starts to get hard to spin, come back and your back in that sweet spot where it rotates freely. Thats where you want to lock everything down. That would have no preload on the endlink. However keep in mind this should be done when the cars loaded, if this was done in the air, the moment the suspension loads up, it gets preloaded.
I bought some of these and they don't have a locking nut on the other side to leverage off to tighten the other nut, it was just a circle after the boot. Perhaps I didn't get a part? I used vice grips on the circle to stop it from turning. Doesn't seem right. Also an explanation of how to adjust once under load would be helpful. I imagine it would be good practice to have someone sit in the drivers seat?(if you don't normally have passengers).
@@WhitelinePerformance I had a locknut on the body of the link but I am referring to just after the boot. The thread just span so I held it with the vice grips so I could tighten the nylon nut. They're installed now though and they are great.
@@cthorno2991 Understood now, if you were to go back an look at your links you should notice the end of the stud has a hex shape to fit an allen key through. If the opening is closed, then at the end of the stud, before the boot, you'll find a hex shape that can accommodate a 14mm wrench.
Whiteline so how do you tighten down an alley key along with the nut because I can’t hold one down without blocking the other you should of just stayed with the 14mm nut.
Maybe I missed it but how do you properly adjust them?
This helped...thanks! I ended up using jack stands and a jack to make the preload adjustment. I just lifted the brake rotor with the jack and made the adjustments from there. Thanks again
Do you want them the same length as stock even when the car is lowered?
I’m not sure I understand the value of this video. You are working on a lowered car and you match the length of the factory endlinks. You then say that final adjustment will be done on the car with suspension loaded, but then you never go over those details... What is the goal here. I can install my adjustable endlinks at any height and the bar will just rotate to reach them. How do I know aim using the correct length?
At stock ride height your end links should be perpendicular to the sway bar for proper leverage. Also there should not be any forceful stretching to connect end links otherwise an uneven preload could be set into your sway bars and mess with steering feel & body control on turns.
@@TK-gd9td that's what the video misses, the pre-load to me is when one side isn't level with the other, tensioning the anti roll bar. You should be able to slip both ends of the drop links in the both the bar and the damper without having to force the bar to align, that's where the adjustable drop link comes in to account slight variation in ride height L to R
You can’t do this at home, you need corner weighting scales to do it properly
@@bilaltariq7819 I understand corner weight is done with the bars disconnected. Once the rideheight and corner weighting is done the roll bar is connected and adjusted to be free from static tension.
@@cw205mi16 That's true but some cars run a specific amount of preload on the bar and you have to measure it by checking the relative weights of each corner. I'm not really sure why they do it to be honest
Hey I'm curious why suspension should be loaded to tighten the links? What if I forgot to do it? Serious question
Very valid question. It's best practice to set and tighten off the links whilst the suspension is loaded is to allow for the sway bar to be in a neutral position so the correct amount of pre-load can be set.
Is it a must to load up the suspension before tighten up the links? What happens if you tighten it without loading up the suspension?
Yea I would love an answer for this as well
The reason is that there is no guarantee that the wheels droop the same amount when unloaded, so if you just tighten everything up with the wheels at full droop, there is a very strong probability that the bar will be preloaded (twisted away from the relaxed position) when the car is on the ground.
Yes. You need the wheels at their normal operating height to properly size the end links so that there is no preload on the sway bar (downward or upward force)
Cheers pal your advice is much appreciated 👍
I didn’t receive washers with my front links. The ones I received with my rears didn’t fit the front. Haven’t tried the rears yet. Smh
Hi there, i have one simple question, does an adjustable sway bar end improve handling in a higher speeds? With stock suspension and stock sway bar?
Would it be roght with all stock, put a longer sway bar end sow it force more the wheels at high speed courner?
Will do nothing but change the way the sway bar works (not in a good way ) you get endlinks on after lowering a car to put the sway bar back to its original rang of motion
those nylock nuts are a tough SOB to tighten. Mitchel is my hero
i like it when the whole socket turns.
Quick question got these endlinks for the fk7 and im on bc racing coils that came with their own enlinks lowered the car to where i wanted it but the bc endlinks were lower than what the whiteline ones could go. I put on the whiteline ones now i have a clunking noise from the sway bar im wondering its to tall for the ride height is that a thing ?
I’m trying to buy these for my mk7 gti. My stock one hit my sway bar these aren’t to expensive hopefully they are shorter by a bit or adjust it to not hit the sway bar?
I enjoyed your choice in background music
Thank you!
Just installed mine and now there is a clunking sound from my front suspension?
great video :)
Whats the torque specs for nuts
those adjustable sway bar end links always seem to come loose. they need to put some type of locking mechanism on them. the lock nuts don't stay locked lol
mine is hitting the bolt while im turning. what could be the problem?
Did you have to shorten the links because it was lowered?
Just a tad!
just replaced the adjustable link with the original but without tell us how to adjust or any purpose to replace.
What is the point in loading the suspension before you lock up all the jam nuts ?
Unsure if you've gotten your answer by now, but it's to ensure zero preload on the ARB basically. If you had the front suspension fully extended, or partially extended, and fit the droplink (like with OEM droplinks on a lowered vehicle), when you settle the car onto its own weight, the ARB is already under load (preload), this can affect handling as the ARB is already under tension before you're even putting cornering load onto it.
How many of the washers do i use I have of them
We include extras to be able to get the endlink close to 90* as possible. Not always possible but the washers help.
Would these fit a 2015 Mazda 3 I know it says adjustable but I just want to make sure thanks.
Yes. We have link kits available for the 2015 Mazda 3. Links to our websites in the description.
what is the difference between the two parts?
When putting the car under load for fonal adjustment, does it need to be level front to rear? Or can I just roll the front or rear up on a pair of ramps instead of four?
How did you do this because I just did it job with one set of ramps.
One set of ramps is fine
Does turning the front wheel on the ground create preload? Wondering if I could do that so I can have clearance to adjust the end links.
Having the full weight of the car on the ground is plenty, Turning the wheel will make the one side possibly bind up. Hence, its better to have the wheels straight to tighten/adjust.
So if I do adjustable end links on factory struts and spring would the car drop a little ?
No
curious, where are Whiteline Sway Bars made?
Europe
What does he mean when he said to keep the suspension loaded?
To have the car on its own weight
Question you guys have end links for 2016 toyota Camry V6? Thanks
Hey Ian,
We dont have them off the shelf for the camry, however we have a lot of different sizes. We just need two things, stud size and length you need. Our stud sizes are only 10mm and 12mm.
Dude, you didn’t adjust anything. Back to stock settings. Lol.
Was hoping you would show how to zero the preload 😂
zero preload on the bar is the bar ends as close as possible to parallel with the ground. On the endlinks, once installed, rotating the turnbuckle it will get to a point where the buckle spins freely back and fourth with little to no effort, go one way its starts to get hard to spin, come back and your back in that sweet spot where it rotates freely. Thats where you want to lock everything down. That would have no preload on the endlink. However keep in mind this should be done when the cars loaded, if this was done in the air, the moment the suspension loads up, it gets preloaded.
How long roughly would you say this takes? To just install the drop links
you saw the video. about 15 seconds
@@dougburg3210 😂😂
Front end link can be put at the rear?
No, the height is way more longer in the front than the back
Great video. Expect no explanation of how to adjust once under load.... 🤔
You never explained how the pre load process
so it should take me about 15 seconds to change the links. hold it in place, give the bottom nut three turns and you're done.
I bought some of these and they don't have a locking nut on the other side to leverage off to tighten the other nut, it was just a circle after the boot. Perhaps I didn't get a part? I used vice grips on the circle to stop it from turning. Doesn't seem right. Also an explanation of how to adjust once under load would be helpful. I imagine it would be good practice to have someone sit in the drivers seat?(if you don't normally have passengers).
Hey there, you are saying the endlink didn't have a locking nut before the gold turnbuckle?
@@WhitelinePerformance I had a locknut on the body of the link but I am referring to just after the boot. The thread just span so I held it with the vice grips so I could tighten the nylon nut. They're installed now though and they are great.
@@cthorno2991 Understood now, if you were to go back an look at your links you should notice the end of the stud has a hex shape to fit an allen key through. If the opening is closed, then at the end of the stud, before the boot, you'll find a hex shape that can accommodate a 14mm wrench.
Whiteline so how do you tighten down an alley key along with the nut because I can’t hold one down without blocking the other you should of just stayed with the 14mm nut.
@@Midnightxinterlude you need to get a pass-through wrench, use a crescent wrench, or a box wrench.
Which supplied washers go where? This video tells zero info
Lol even the manufacturer don't show how to achieve 0 preload what a joke
all jibberish, if you do not have the ability to explain the subject matter in proper manner ,it is better not to up load such videos.