@@alexeyorlov9639 There is a good run-down on wood glues and there uses/properties here: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wood_glue . I grew up using polyvinyl acetate (white) glue, but switched to aliphatic resin (yellow) glue about thirty years ago. It works well for most applications. The desk I'm sitting at I built over two decades ago and has never needed repair. Both white and yellow glues have similar strengths when fully cured, but the yellow glue has superior initial grip, cures faster, can be sanded, and is less sensitive to temperature.
I almost passed this by, but when I saw a border collie and a wood-handled hammer, I was hooked. My old dog is gone, but I'm still swinging a 13 ounce Plumb. Your tips are great - using grit to keep glued pieces from slipping when they're clamped is my favorite - but your ability to explain and teach them is even better. Thank you.
Most welcome. Have had a border collie (or two, or three) all my life; wouldn't feel right if there wasn't someone dropping a Frisbee at my feet every five minutes.
@@asdfgoogle Bella talks to me. I can't understand her most of the time, but she actually attempts to form words rather than barking. How could someone like that be anything else than a "someone."
@@WorkshopCompanion hahaha. I totally understand. My baby girl, Nina (20lbs sheltie), she often does the same thing. But boy does she like to bark. So that's what I get most of the time! Cheers!
I love these videos so much... I find it so hard to remember advice unless I understand the underlying reasoning of it and you make it so simple and apparent!
I was also taught to avoid glueing end grain to end grain and then discovered this trick myself, however i recently watched a UA-cam video where wood was clued together in different ways including end to end. Mechanical pressure was then applied to the joints to bend break them and readings taken at breaking point, amazingly the end to end out performed them all, if I recall correctly the joint didn't actually fail it was the wood that failed just beyond the joint.
@@markhendrix745 phew! Glad you saw it, i couldn't find the link and was starting to think i imagined it😂 I know that end grain absorbs glue like a capillary reaction so the wood fibres are actually impregnated and surrounded by glue compared to other orientations
Assuming a good glue-up, the wood will fail in edge-grain joints, and the glue will fail in end-grain joints. The glue strength is identical in both joint types. It's the wood strength that's different. Wood strength varies a great deal depending on how the stresses (tension, compression, and shear) are oriented relative to the grain. Anybody who has ever split a log knows this. Wedging the fibers apart is much easier than severing them, and the stresses on an edge-grain joint are pulling the fibers apart similar to that splitting axe.
yeah, saw it too; turns out the principle is that glue is not as strong as the fibers inside the wood, but is _stronger_ than the lignin "substrate" that holds those fibers together all the other test examples showed the fibers being torn away because the lignin was weaker than the glue bond, while end-to-end showed the glue bond (while plenty strong) was weaker than the fibers themselves
That was a strong end grain glue job! Another type of grit you can use to keep wood from sliding around on the glue is salt. That wont dull a saw blade as much as sand paper grit and works really well.
Might try using epsom salt, I came across a scientific article that tried multiple additives to pva glue. One of the additives with positive result was magnesium sulphate, as a purified epsom salt. I remember it was a fairly small amount, so just enough for traction should have good results...I think I'll try it anyway. Have a good day.
Good tips! Another tip: Don't overtighten clamps. Sometimes you have to in order to close up gaps, but as soon as the gap is closed, that's enough. Hard, dense, smooth hardwood just needs a small tweak of the clamp screw.
This is the 'first' of your videos I've viewed. It WON'T be the last! As a 'very old guy' new to doing more woodworking since I was a vehicle mechanic for 50+ years, these tricks of gluing, etc, are highly needed skills to learn. THANKS! 😍
When gluing up mitre joints e.g. boxes, picture frames, I use this pre-glue trick beforehand to prep the faces to be joined; I’ve noticed that the joints are particularly stronger as a result.
Man, I truly enjoy your videos. You have taught me more tips/tricks in just a couple hours of videos than I've acquired over 20 years of trial and error.
I agree. I thought the sandpaper was a bad idea and not because I don't like using industrial abrasives in my workshop. That aluminum oxide is eventually going to dull an edge
i appreciate your vid overall. I bet there are comments on this already, but it's a misconception that endgrain-to-endgrain is inherently weaker than side-to-side. well, unless you're using "endgrain" as just short for "narrower side", but i think not. Of course larger surface area of s2s matters, but e2e is not weaker and it's not because of that wick action. That penetration is exactly why endgrain will be stronger than side to side, given the same glue-up area. And of course adding glue in steps (priming the joint) adds more of that strength by letting more glue go deeper. But even without it is relatively stronger than s2s - it will not break because it's weak, but because wood will not break across the grains just as easily as along the grain itself, and because, usually, e2e joint is at mechanical disadvantage. (oh, i hope that's my last edit and there's finally some order to my thoughts...) found it! Pattrick Sullivans vid ua-cam.com/video/m7HxBa9WVis/v-deo.html glue myths, the part on difference of mechanics of each joint starts at ua-cam.com/video/m7HxBa9WVis/v-deo.html?t=819
"I bet there are comments on this already, but it's a misconception that endgrain-to-endgrain is inherently weaker than side-to-side." It is not a myth. Endgrain-to-endgrain is a buttjoint and they are the weakest joints you can make. It is not a myth. The video Sullivan created is really misleading cause while the data he shows is good, the conclusion he is drawing from that is just wrong. There is no need to trust anybodies word, just grab 2 pieces of wood and connect them with an endgrain glueup and try to break the connection (easy). Then try the same thing with a simple lap-joint for example - they are worlds apart. Endgrain joints simply can not be as strong precisely cause it means the grain, the thing that gives woods its strength, ends there.
@@ABaumstumpf err... we just happen to call buttjoints endgrain-to-endgrain because that is how we traditionally rip the wood. Unfortunately because of that people assume the fault lies with endgrain, while it's due to glue-up surface. So it's not e2e which are weeker than s2s, buttjoints are. And i don't think we disagree on that xD it's a misunderstanding of two non-native speakers perhaps. Sullivan proved that, given same physical dimensions of material and glueup area : grain-to-grain bond (lignin) < side-to-side glueup < endgrain-to-endgrain glueup < grain. The myth i'm refering to is people thinking it is e2e < s2s. The correct way to put this is: buttjoints are weaker than side joints (which imply the size difference), let's leave grain out of it entierly.
Nick, you teach this old dog new tricks! the case hardening info was a new thing for me, so as a 30 + yr hobby woodworker thank you for reminding me I still have a lot to learn!
It may be new info, but it may not be useful info. Wood joints aren't made stronger by wood fibers absorbing glue. Absorption does matter, but its biggest effect is in how quickly the glue dries. With PVA glue, the faster water is removed from the glue the less working time you have and the less time it takes for the glued joint to reach full strength. Since it's very hard to tell exactly how long glue will need to reach full strength, you can't really exploit that aspect with any confidence. As such, the only important effect of the wood absorbing water is less working time - which is generally a disadvantage.
Thanks. I always learn something from your videos. Instead of wax on cauls, etc., when possible I like to use packing tape on the cauls - water based glues don't stick to packing tape, and a bit less messy to use around my projects. I've also been treating the ends of plywood cabinets by pretreating, then applying a second coat of glue. I suppose that in plywood there should be a mix of end grain and side grain - but it doesn't hurt to take a bit of time to pretreat and follow up with a second round of glue for a really strong joint. Love your videos.
When I don't want glue to stick I use packing tape on the strips of wood that I place between the clamp and the piece being glued. That too helps that the strip wont stick to the piece being glued
Instead of grit from sandpaper, I heard that sprinkling a little kosher salt also works to keep the surfaces from slipping. Since the salt is water-soluble, it dissolves into the glue and disappears after a few minutes.
@@isabelgutierrez8150it would be a problem if you were planning to cut through joints containing grit. Patterned cutting boards would be a good example, where several strips are glued together and then cross-cut to be glued again. The grit would literally sand the teeth on the saw blade. Or the planer blade if planing the surface after glue-up.
a video by Patrick Sullivan demonstrated that end grain joints are just as strong as face grain joints. Even without applying 2 coats to the end grain.
Ahh the end grain glue myth..... I think you need to watch this guy, he explains in detail why it is rubbish....ua-cam.com/video/m7HxBa9WVis/v-deo.html
@@lennyf1957 "end-th-end gluing done properly is quite excellent and can even be structural. Case closed." Not really. Even with softwood that now is at best 1/2 the strength of a simple lap-joint.
4:00 I've been told a pinch of Table Salt works well for shear slip too. It also dissolves as the glue breaks down the salt but holds long enough for the pieces to stay put. As for the last tip with double application of glue this is why we invented Skarf joints.
I knew the salt trick but frankly, who keeps salt in the workshop? On the other hand, who doesn't keep sand paper in the workshop? It's a no-brainer to me.
@@KJ6EAD there probably isnt anything that needs that much glue where the pieces are sliding around so much that you cant clamp properly. If so, then make pieces a little longer and nail the ends. The piece is still going to need cutting after clamping anyway.
I would *never* add sandpaper grit to anything that later needs to be worked, as I value my tool edges too much to subject them to something that is designed to cut into them--which is what sharpening is.
I appreciate the concern, and I know I was a bit wobbly. I had replaced an ankle a few months before making that video and hadn't gotten my sea legs back.
Too bad for the audio, I had a jump scare every time the jingle came up. Another trick I heard about gluing up end grain was to damp it with water slightly and leave it like that for a few minutes, before gluing up normally (in fact, I did this a couple nights ago on a bunch of splines in order to give myself enough time to glue and clamp with a few explosions of the parts potentially waiting to happen). I'd like to try these tips on my first occasion and compare to a regular glue-up.
I'm so glad I found you and subscribed when I did (not too long ago). Your videos, knowledge, and way of explaining helps tremendously. Just wanted to say thanks from a fellow woodworker
Hello and first of all, sorry for my poor command of your language. For my part, in order to prevent my pieces to be glued from slipping between them when gluing, I disperse a few grains of coarse salt... The two pieces no longer slide against each other at all when gluing....😉👌 Thank you for your great videos!! ❤️
Bless you good sir! May the divines smile upon your endeavors. Glue-ups are the bane of my wood crafting existence. Any advice I can find I'll take. Question: How tight do you want your clamps to be? Squeezing out too much glue seems to be a concern. Seems like I can't find the happy medium.
There is a myth-conception that too much pressure causes a starved joint. Not possible -- clamping pressure is absolutely necessary for most types of adhesives; it helps form an "interphase" between the adherends, and this in turn makes for a strong joint. Too much pressure will crush the wood cells and bend the clamps, but short of that you should be okay. If an assembly fails at the joint (and the wood didn't split near the joint), it's most likely (1) there was too little glue to begin with, (2) there wasn't enough pressure to form the interphase, (3) the high density of the wood prevented the glue from penetrating, or (4) natural oils in the wood prevented the glue from penetrating.
@@WorkshopCompanion awesome! Thank you. Okay, last question, promise. How long after you last cut/sand the surface before it seals up and you have to surface it again?
@@timmorris8932 It will depend on the wood and the environmental conditions. But as a rule of thumb, I re-sand with the last grit used after two weeks.
I agree, it doesn't really get it, does it? If there is a change in density, it's very small. But I can point you to several books on gluing and clamping (mine included) that use it to describe this phenomena.
Man, I really like this old guy he's great very informative and friendly. Though I think someone is slippin' on the boss, they need to cover the sound editing for him lol 😎👍🏻👍🏻
Nick, I just started watching your channel and am loving it. I have been making campfire wooden projects for 30+ years and I still keep learning new tricks.... or I am getting old and forgetful and being reminded. Either way, I love what you are teaching! Keep it up... thanks!!! And my "campfire wooden projects" are the scrap and the fails left over after an enjoyable week of creating sawdust. Thanks for sharing your skill and knowledge
hey brother, thanks for the tip about cyanoacrylate (super) glue - so - for the very small and deep cracks, use the (super) glue; for the other cracks of the guitar body, which I can open maybe 1/8", what do you think? thanks
I like to half lap my end grain glue ups. It gives a nice face grain cross-section for the glue to hold onto. Finger joints or dovetails are nice too, but much more labor intensive.
H Nick, I have always uses Elmers yellow carpenters glue. It is getting harder to find, so I tried Titebond. Great glue, but too runny. I noticed an immediate difference. Compared to Elmers, it is like water. This does not make glue ups like dovetails or finger joints any easier. (1) Any tips on coping with runny glue? (2) Have you ever tried the glue in a bag that is used in Asia? THANKS
Salt rather than sand grit keeps the joint from sliding without extra wear on your blades, the water content is not high enough to dissolve the salt, so you don't have to worry about compromising the joint thru contamination, a tiny sprinkle of saw dust works almost as well.
Note to users: Current thinking is that end-grain to end-grain joints are far STRONGER than any other joint: ua-cam.com/video/m7HxBa9WVis/v-deo.html This has been much discussed and much re-tested. And there is NO NEED to "pre-glue" the end grain.
I am trying to avoid putting abrasive material inside a glued joint. If I ever need to hit that with a cutting tool, the tool may get chipped. So instead I am using table salt for this.
Hey Nick ... I realized when watching this video that I've yet to watch one of your videos that I haven't learned something new AND useful. That, my friend, is why you've managed to build quite a large, loyal following. It's well deserved. Cheers, Dave
Everytime I watch one of your videos that intro always makes me laugh. It looks like your threatening to hit that dog with your hammer. All with a big smile on your face. I don't think that's your intention but I think its hilarious. Also you make great videos.
If you dampen the end grain with a damp cloth first, the glue will penetrate quicker and deeper when you rub it in. I always force the glue in two times. Makes the joint even stronger.
Depends what you want from your glue joint, but end to end is stronger in this configuration because if you had the same size dimensions, but the grain was opposite, it wouldn't be half as strong. It's been demonstrated, with simple mitre joints being much stronger than grain to flat. Peace x
If using epoxy always wet out all joints, wait five minutes do it again mix silica with epoxy glue the joint, cut on a 1-12 slope the connection stronger than the wood
The end grain joint is actually the strongest joint because glue is stronger than lignin (don't just take my word for it, there are many videos on youtube demonstrating this). It just seems like the weakest because the glue is the weakest part of the end grain joint. Fibers are stronger than wood glue which is stronger than lignin. When you join two faces the glue in the joint is stronger than the lignin which holds the rest of the wood together. The joint fails when the lignin can no longer hold the fibers together. So it seems like is is the strongest joint because the glue is never the part that fails first, the wood itself fails before the joint. When you join two end grains the fibers are stronger than the glue which holds the two pieces together. The joint fails when the glue can no longer hold the fibers together. So the glue fails first. Since glue is much stronger than lignin (even in the hardest/strongest woods) the end grain is the much stronger joint.
I tried the end grain gluing tip. I worked like a charm. I can't break the joint. I was amazed at the results.
So was I. It was the folks at Franklin Glue that first showed me that trick, and couldn't believe it until I tried it myself.
What glues are good ? I am very doubtful re wood glues here so i use epoxy .
@@WorkshopCompanion now that you have this technique, would you use in place of a splice joint in many cases? I like the way splice joints look too.
@@qwut9544 I use a scarf joint with a 1:15 slope.
@@alexeyorlov9639 There is a good run-down on wood glues and there uses/properties here: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wood_glue . I grew up using polyvinyl acetate (white) glue, but switched to aliphatic resin (yellow) glue about thirty years ago. It works well for most applications. The desk I'm sitting at I built over two decades ago and has never needed repair. Both white and yellow glues have similar strengths when fully cured, but the yellow glue has superior initial grip, cures faster, can be sanded, and is less sensitive to temperature.
I almost passed this by, but when I saw a border collie and a wood-handled hammer, I was hooked. My old dog is gone, but I'm still swinging a 13 ounce Plumb. Your tips are great - using grit to keep glued pieces from slipping when they're clamped is my favorite - but your ability to explain and teach them is even better. Thank you.
Most welcome. Have had a border collie (or two, or three) all my life; wouldn't feel right if there wasn't someone dropping a Frisbee at my feet every five minutes.
@@WorkshopCompanion lmao. I like how you said someone. Similar to referencing a human. I talk the same way to my dogs.
@@asdfgoogle Bella talks to me. I can't understand her most of the time, but she actually attempts to form words rather than barking. How could someone like that be anything else than a "someone."
@@WorkshopCompanion hahaha. I totally understand. My baby girl, Nina (20lbs sheltie), she often does the same thing. But boy does she like to bark. So that's what I get most of the time! Cheers!
@@asdfgoogle Ditto.
My left ear liked this.
😂🎉
I love these videos so much... I find it so hard to remember advice unless I understand the underlying reasoning of it and you make it so simple and apparent!
I was also taught to avoid glueing end grain to end grain and then discovered this trick myself, however i recently watched a UA-cam video where wood was clued together in different ways including end to end. Mechanical pressure was then applied to the joints to bend break them and readings taken at breaking point, amazingly the end to end out performed them all, if I recall correctly the joint didn't actually fail it was the wood that failed just beyond the joint.
Saw this same video.. he even goes on to explain scientifically why that is
@@markhendrix745 phew! Glad you saw it, i couldn't find the link and was starting to think i imagined it😂
I know that end grain absorbs glue like a capillary reaction so the wood fibres are actually impregnated and surrounded by glue compared to other orientations
Patrick Sullivan has a whole series on wood glue myths where he tests this and came to the same conclusion
Assuming a good glue-up, the wood will fail in edge-grain joints, and the glue will fail in end-grain joints. The glue strength is identical in both joint types. It's the wood strength that's different. Wood strength varies a great deal depending on how the stresses (tension, compression, and shear) are oriented relative to the grain. Anybody who has ever split a log knows this. Wedging the fibers apart is much easier than severing them, and the stresses on an edge-grain joint are pulling the fibers apart similar to that splitting axe.
yeah, saw it too; turns out the principle is that glue is not as strong as the fibers inside the wood, but is _stronger_ than the lignin "substrate" that holds those fibers together
all the other test examples showed the fibers being torn away because the lignin was weaker than the glue bond, while end-to-end showed the glue bond (while plenty strong) was weaker than the fibers themselves
That was a strong end grain glue job! Another type of grit you can use to keep wood from sliding around on the glue is salt. That wont dull a saw blade as much as sand paper grit and works really well.
Might try using epsom salt, I came across a scientific article that tried multiple additives to pva glue. One of the additives with positive result was magnesium sulphate, as a purified epsom salt. I remember it was a fairly small amount, so just enough for traction should have good results...I think I'll try it anyway. Have a good day.
Salt May alter the glue chemistry and therefore strength, depending on the type of glue, as it is very soluble.
Good tips! Another tip: Don't overtighten clamps. Sometimes you have to in order to close up gaps, but as soon as the gap is closed, that's enough. Hard, dense, smooth hardwood just needs a small tweak of the clamp screw.
I think it's usually worth the extra time to fit the pieces instead of clamping them harder to fill gaps anyway.
0:20
This is the 'first' of your videos I've viewed. It WON'T be the last! As a 'very old guy' new to doing more woodworking since I was a vehicle mechanic for 50+ years, these tricks of gluing, etc, are highly needed skills to learn. THANKS! 😍
Most welcome. Visit often. Us very old guys need to stick together.
When gluing up mitre joints e.g. boxes, picture frames, I use this pre-glue trick beforehand to prep the faces to be joined; I’ve noticed that the joints are particularly stronger as a result.
Man, I truly enjoy your videos. You have taught me more tips/tricks in just a couple hours of videos than I've acquired over 20 years of trial and error.
Rather than sandpaper grit, I prefer a sparse sprinkle of salt to prevent glue-ups slipping.
I agree. I thought the sandpaper was a bad idea and not because I don't like using industrial abrasives in my workshop. That aluminum oxide is eventually going to dull an edge
The end-grain to end-grain demonstration left me amazed. Never would have believed it!
Thanks for saying.
i appreciate your vid overall.
I bet there are comments on this already, but it's a misconception that endgrain-to-endgrain is inherently weaker than side-to-side. well, unless you're using "endgrain" as just short for "narrower side", but i think not.
Of course larger surface area of s2s matters, but e2e is not weaker and it's not because of that wick action. That penetration is exactly why endgrain will be stronger than side to side, given the same glue-up area. And of course adding glue in steps (priming the joint) adds more of that strength by letting more glue go deeper. But even without it is relatively stronger than s2s - it will not break because it's weak, but because wood will not break across the grains just as easily as along the grain itself, and because, usually, e2e joint is at mechanical disadvantage.
(oh, i hope that's my last edit and there's finally some order to my thoughts...)
found it! Pattrick Sullivans vid ua-cam.com/video/m7HxBa9WVis/v-deo.html glue myths, the part on difference of mechanics of each joint starts at ua-cam.com/video/m7HxBa9WVis/v-deo.html?t=819
"I bet there are comments on this already, but it's a misconception that endgrain-to-endgrain is inherently weaker than side-to-side."
It is not a myth. Endgrain-to-endgrain is a buttjoint and they are the weakest joints you can make. It is not a myth. The video Sullivan created is really misleading cause while the data he shows is good, the conclusion he is drawing from that is just wrong.
There is no need to trust anybodies word, just grab 2 pieces of wood and connect them with an endgrain glueup and try to break the connection (easy). Then try the same thing with a simple lap-joint for example - they are worlds apart.
Endgrain joints simply can not be as strong precisely cause it means the grain, the thing that gives woods its strength, ends there.
@@ABaumstumpf err... we just happen to call buttjoints endgrain-to-endgrain because that is how we traditionally rip the wood. Unfortunately because of that people assume the fault lies with endgrain, while it's due to glue-up surface. So it's not e2e which are weeker than s2s, buttjoints are.
And i don't think we disagree on that xD it's a misunderstanding of two non-native speakers perhaps.
Sullivan proved that, given same physical dimensions of material and glueup area : grain-to-grain bond (lignin) < side-to-side glueup < endgrain-to-endgrain glueup < grain. The myth i'm refering to is people thinking it is e2e < s2s. The correct way to put this is: buttjoints are weaker than side joints (which imply the size difference), let's leave grain out of it entierly.
It’s refreshing to see actual skills on UA-cam!! Great tips I’ve learned a couple new ones I’ll surely use!
Thanks.
Nick, you teach this old dog new tricks! the case hardening info was a new thing for me, so as a 30 + yr hobby woodworker thank you for reminding me I still have a lot to learn!
It may be new info, but it may not be useful info. Wood joints aren't made stronger by wood fibers absorbing glue. Absorption does matter, but its biggest effect is in how quickly the glue dries. With PVA glue, the faster water is removed from the glue the less working time you have and the less time it takes for the glued joint to reach full strength. Since it's very hard to tell exactly how long glue will need to reach full strength, you can't really exploit that aspect with any confidence. As such, the only important effect of the wood absorbing water is less working time - which is generally a disadvantage.
Thanks. I always learn something from your videos. Instead of wax on cauls, etc., when possible I like to use packing tape on the cauls - water based glues don't stick to packing tape, and a bit less messy to use around my projects. I've also been treating the ends of plywood cabinets by pretreating, then applying a second coat of glue. I suppose that in plywood there should be a mix of end grain and side grain - but it doesn't hurt to take a bit of time to pretreat and follow up with a second round of glue for a really strong joint. Love your videos.
All good tips. Thanks.
When I don't want glue to stick I use packing tape on the strips of wood that I place between the clamp and the piece being glued. That too helps that the strip wont stick to the piece being glued
Nick: Great tips - BUT - more important - Don't stop, your an inspiration to all of us. Thank You!
Great tips,Thanks! I hope I can remember em when the time comes. 👍
Wow, come on y’all, Not nearly enough thumbs up for this video.
Instead of grit from sandpaper, I heard that sprinkling a little kosher salt also works to keep the surfaces from slipping. Since the salt is water-soluble, it dissolves into the glue and disappears after a few minutes.
That is also a great tip i have heard but really at what point will it be a problem if the grit doesn’t dissolve?
@@isabelgutierrez8150it would be a problem if you were planning to cut through joints containing grit. Patterned cutting boards would be a good example, where several strips are glued together and then cross-cut to be glued again. The grit would literally sand the teeth on the saw blade. Or the planer blade if planing the surface after glue-up.
a video by Patrick Sullivan demonstrated that end grain joints are just as strong as face grain joints. Even without applying 2 coats to the end grain.
Ahh the end grain glue myth..... I think you need to watch this guy, he explains in detail why it is rubbish....ua-cam.com/video/m7HxBa9WVis/v-deo.html
As a young man who dosnt know where he's going in life, I may pick up carpentry just to stand on glued wood.
I truly learned something NEW today! Thanks 🍺
Most welcome.
Check out Patrick Sullovan who proved the end grain glue joint myth false
7:00 you should have done two end grain glue ups. One without pre-gluing the two ends separately, and see if there is any strength difference.
he would've slipped on the boards and died if he didnt pre glue
@@TheBanjoShowOfficial it's all in the name of science.
The demonstration also showed that, end-th-end gluing done properly is quite excellent and can even be structural. Case closed.
@@lennyf1957 "end-th-end gluing done properly is quite excellent and can even be structural. Case closed."
Not really. Even with softwood that now is at best 1/2 the strength of a simple lap-joint.
@@ABaumstumpf COMPLETELY UNTRUE!!!!!! ua-cam.com/video/m7HxBa9WVis/v-deo.html
This channel deserves more subscribers! So many woodworking channels out there but I always find these tips unique and helpful.
This dude went to the Glue Institute just to learn the pitch of threaded rod for spreading evenly on wooden surfaces. Absolute wealth of knowledge
Thanks. We're getting there.
you are the Man! I'm below novice woodworker dude, and I'm trying.
Neat trick with the threaded rod! Just like a grooved trowel for spreading adhesive...why didn't I think of that?
Exactly my reaction when the Franklin Glue chemists showed it to me. Ingenious.
4:00 I've been told a pinch of Table Salt works well for shear slip too. It also dissolves as the glue breaks down the salt but holds long enough for the pieces to stay put. As for the last tip with double application of glue this is why we invented Skarf joints.
Not the easiest to clamp.
I knew the salt trick but frankly, who keeps salt in the workshop? On the other hand, who doesn't keep sand paper in the workshop?
It's a no-brainer to me.
I'm not putting grit where a saw, chisel, plane, etc. will go later.
@@KJ6EAD there probably isnt anything that needs that much glue where the pieces are sliding around so much that you cant clamp properly. If so, then make pieces a little longer and nail the ends. The piece is still going to need cutting after clamping anyway.
I would *never* add sandpaper grit to anything that later needs to be worked, as I value my tool edges too much to subject them to something that is designed to cut into them--which is what sharpening is.
I hope you don't make a habit of standing and balancing on boards. We love your videos too much!
I appreciate the concern, and I know I was a bit wobbly. I had replaced an ankle a few months before making that video and hadn't gotten my sea legs back.
Too bad for the audio, I had a jump scare every time the jingle came up. Another trick I heard about gluing up end grain was to damp it with water slightly and leave it like that for a few minutes, before gluing up normally (in fact, I did this a couple nights ago on a bunch of splines in order to give myself enough time to glue and clamp with a few explosions of the parts potentially waiting to happen). I'd like to try these tips on my first occasion and compare to a regular glue-up.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge! Very helpful.
Who knew I needed this video? The algorithm... that's who...
I'm so glad I found you and subscribed when I did (not too long ago). Your videos, knowledge, and way of explaining helps tremendously. Just wanted to say thanks from a fellow woodworker
Most welcome.
i like to use a tiny pinch of saw dust to keep parts from slipping around
Hello and first of all, sorry for my poor command of your language.
For my part, in order to prevent my pieces to be glued from slipping between them when gluing, I disperse a few grains of coarse salt... The two pieces no longer slide against each other at all when gluing....😉👌
Thank you for your great videos!! ❤️
Huh, threaded rod. It's much like a notched trowel for grout. I never thought to try one though. Great idea!
Just like, only smaller teeth.
I use wood glue and CA at the same time, CA to hold it untill the wood glue goes off
Thanks for this very helpful information.
I keep a salt shaker with my glue products. It does the same trick as the sandpaper sand, but super easy and really cheap.
And doesn't hurt plane blades, videos or drill bits like that grit from sand paper...
Bless you good sir! May the divines smile upon your endeavors. Glue-ups are the bane of my wood crafting existence. Any advice I can find I'll take.
Question: How tight do you want your clamps to be? Squeezing out too much glue seems to be a concern. Seems like I can't find the happy medium.
There is a myth-conception that too much pressure causes a starved joint. Not possible -- clamping pressure is absolutely necessary for most types of adhesives; it helps form an "interphase" between the adherends, and this in turn makes for a strong joint. Too much pressure will crush the wood cells and bend the clamps, but short of that you should be okay. If an assembly fails at the joint (and the wood didn't split near the joint), it's most likely (1) there was too little glue to begin with, (2) there wasn't enough pressure to form the interphase, (3) the high density of the wood prevented the glue from penetrating, or (4) natural oils in the wood prevented the glue from penetrating.
@@WorkshopCompanion awesome! Thank you.
Okay, last question, promise. How long after you last cut/sand the surface before it seals up and you have to surface it again?
@@timmorris8932 It will depend on the wood and the environmental conditions. But as a rule of thumb, I re-sand with the last grit used after two weeks.
Excellent shop visit. Thanks for the tips.
Very helpful but case hardening is not the correct term here. Oxidized maybe.
I agree, it doesn't really get it, does it? If there is a change in density, it's very small. But I can point you to several books on gluing and clamping (mine included) that use it to describe this phenomena.
Absolutely admire how you get right to it.
Thanks.
Really excellent tips :) thank you
Thank you - very nice tips!
Thank you for teaching this.
You were my favorite. You really were. Until.the End Grain scene. Then.... you... (sniff..) you.. spread glue.. with YOUR FINGER!!!!! WHY!!???
why....
It ws a moment of weakness. And at least Travis cut out the part where I lick my finger.
@@WorkshopCompanion 😂
I use old, larger toothed hack saw blades to spread glue.
Thanks for the tip on end joint glue ups.
Nice tip.
Your using a good camera for a good show.
Man, I really like this old guy he's great very informative and friendly. Though I think someone is slippin' on the boss, they need to cover the sound editing for him lol 😎👍🏻👍🏻
Agree. The music/transitions were very loud compared to his voice volume.
Amazing tips
Thank you
I don't know WHY this was reccomended to me... But what a great video!! Wish I had some wood to glue now!! Thanks!
The end grain trick has blown my mind. Thanks for sharing!
You're welcome. The Franklin people showed it to me when I was writing "Gluing and Clamping," and it blew me away too.
Nick, I just started watching your channel and am loving it. I have been making campfire wooden projects for 30+ years and I still keep learning new tricks.... or I am getting old and forgetful and being reminded. Either way, I love what you are teaching! Keep it up... thanks!!! And my "campfire wooden projects" are the scrap and the fails left over after an enjoyable week of creating sawdust. Thanks for sharing your skill and knowledge
Most welcome.
Tip5 has confirmed what I always assumed and I was asking around all the UA-cam Woodworker experts.
Wow! Great video! These were 5 great tips that I haven't seen anywhere else. The fresh surface demonstration was brilliant.
Outstanding!!! Thank You........
Okay! You've peeked my interest! Great and (to me) surprising tips. Thanks!
Most welcome.
piqued vs peeked
Great video. Thanks
hey brother, thanks for the tip about cyanoacrylate (super) glue - so - for the very small and deep cracks, use the (super) glue; for the other cracks of the guitar body, which I can open maybe 1/8", what do you think? thanks
Good job SKIPPER,the question is; Why didn't you apply this knowledge to fixing the boat after the PROFESSOR'S glue failed everyone? 😁
🙂✌❤
I like to half lap my end grain glue ups. It gives a nice face grain cross-section for the glue to hold onto. Finger joints or dovetails are nice too, but much more labor intensive.
H Nick, I have always uses Elmers yellow carpenters glue. It is getting harder to find, so I tried Titebond. Great glue, but too runny. I noticed an immediate difference. Compared to Elmers, it is like water. This does not make glue ups like dovetails or finger joints any easier. (1) Any tips on coping with runny glue? (2) Have you ever tried the glue in a bag that is used in Asia?
THANKS
The music is in both channels but the vocals are only in the left channel.
Yeah this was an older video, a bit late to change it now but we're gettin better with every video! -Travis
Salt rather than sand grit keeps the joint from sliding without extra wear on your blades, the water content is not high enough to dissolve the salt, so you don't have to worry about compromising the joint thru contamination, a tiny sprinkle of saw dust works almost as well.
Impressive!.. Love watching exp carpenters showing there old school tricks 👍👍👍
Note to users:
Current thinking is that end-grain to end-grain joints are far STRONGER than any other joint: ua-cam.com/video/m7HxBa9WVis/v-deo.html
This has been much discussed and much re-tested. And there is NO NEED to "pre-glue" the end grain.
I love this guy! Thank you for your efforts sir.
Much appreciated
@5:00 ...
Might I recommend a 16 pitch carriage bolt for the glue spread?
🤣
Just pulling your chain...
wow! no bullshit, straightforward real world tips! thanks! a rarity these days...
I am trying to avoid putting abrasive material inside a glued joint. If I ever need to hit that with a cutting tool, the tool may get chipped. So instead I am using table salt for this.
My wife just asked "Why are saying 'Wow!'?" I said, "Because I'm learning about glueing wood."
Very informative.
Pretty Awesome man!
I laughed out loud when I saw the clever use of a bolt to spread glue. I love this guy.
Real expert's tips!
Hey Nick ... I realized when watching this video that I've yet to watch one of your videos that I haven't learned something new AND useful. That, my friend, is why you've managed to build quite a large, loyal following. It's well deserved. Cheers, Dave
Very kind of you to say. But remember, it's a team effort on my end. I'm just the chump in front of the camera.
@@WorkshopCompanion Chump? I doubt that ... there are very few of us capable and willing to be in front of that camera.
Everytime I watch one of your videos that intro always makes me laugh. It looks like your threatening to hit that dog with your hammer. All with a big smile on your face. I don't think that's your intention but I think its hilarious. Also you make great videos.
If you dampen the end grain with a damp cloth first, the glue will penetrate quicker and deeper when you rub it in. I always force the glue in two times. Makes the joint even stronger.
Simple but effective tips,didn't know that case hardening would be bad for glueing and will have to Google what naphtha is.
Depends what you want from your glue joint, but end to end is stronger in this configuration because if you had the same size dimensions, but the grain was opposite, it wouldn't be half as strong. It's been demonstrated, with simple mitre joints being much stronger than grain to flat. Peace x
Every small little tip helps tremendously on projects! Gotta learn the very basics first!
If using epoxy always wet out all joints, wait five minutes do it again mix silica with epoxy glue the joint, cut on a 1-12 slope the connection stronger than the wood
Wax on Wax Off...
The end grain joint is actually the strongest joint because glue is stronger than lignin (don't just take my word for it, there are many videos on youtube demonstrating this). It just seems like the weakest because the glue is the weakest part of the end grain joint. Fibers are stronger than wood glue which is stronger than lignin. When you join two faces the glue in the joint is stronger than the lignin which holds the rest of the wood together. The joint fails when the lignin can no longer hold the fibers together. So it seems like is is the strongest joint because the glue is never the part that fails first, the wood itself fails before the joint. When you join two end grains the fibers are stronger than the glue which holds the two pieces together. The joint fails when the glue can no longer hold the fibers together. So the glue fails first. Since glue is much stronger than lignin (even in the hardest/strongest woods) the end grain is the much stronger joint.
Hi, I’m a new subscriber. Your tips have been very helpful in my shop, in fact they are recorded in a note book. Thanks again. 👍🏻🇺🇸
Glad to be of help. And thanks for the kind words.
Is you're sound recorded in mono? because when you wear headphones it's bloody annoying that you only hear on one side 😝😝😝👎👎👎👎
I like you, I like your channel and I like the content. What more could a man ask for? I’m subbed! 👍
Sprinkle a little salt from keep your glued pieces from slipping around when clamping.
oh when i glue anything i tend to have like a dough scraper or occasuonally of its paper stuff just some bit or hard carton to even the glue
Wow! Thanks
These are some golden tips, thank you very much for what you do, its a pleasure to watch your videos.
Is the audio not coming through but the transition music is, for anyone else? Cmon editor. Measure twice, cut once.
Excellent video. I'll use every one of these tricks.
Great video. I keep a salt shaker full of fine play sand around when I'm doing glue ups
Video feedback: voice is low volume, musical intermezzo is way too loud.
WAIT WHERE IS THE CREDIT FOR YOUR DOG? BEAUTIFUL PUP
I need to know that hammer spin trick. I think that is way cool. Another grandchild amazed.