Great to see another N14 video George. I just finished my N14 build a month ago. A couple observations/tips: Grab a couple extra VANOS bolts. Chances are you won't need them, but it's $10 insurance to make sure the project keeps going instead of waiting for a couple bolts if things don't line up quite right. Don't reuse the 3 timing chain bearing bolts (The silver ones from outside the block). They have a nasty habit of shearing off where the threads meet the shank when you try to pull torque on them putting them back in. TIS instructions mention to lightly oil the threads of the main bearing gridle and cylinder head bolts. When I took the bolts out of their packaging (I went with oem bolts for main bearing and elring for cylinder head bolts), I found the threads to have some debris like a couple burrs and dust and what not. That made be cleaned them all off with brake clean and re-coat them with a little engine oil. The 2 blind plugs that covers the last pair of main bearing bolts should get a light smearing of rtv to prevent oil seeping out. Tap them in with a deep socket. I also used an elring oil pan gasket. 12nm felt like too little clamping force and indeed I found a couple bolt that let a little oil seep out over a couple hundred KMs. I re-tightened the bolts to 15nm and the leaks have not returned. I'm thinking 12nm may be the torque when used with rtv like the TIS steps. Look forward to your next video!
Nice job! 2 notes : with 1 missing bolt the down force is not perfectly distributed across the surface and perhaps you could wait or postpone the final torque. Not a big deal anyway. 2 you could use the old crankshaft seal to push in place the new one then on top a wide piece of wood that you could hammer in centre to distribute the force equally. I think it would be safer for the new seal... It looks so good and clean I can't wait to see it started🤩
@@GeorgeAusters luckily no started on the button, but that's because I've almost replaced everything over the last five years of owning a r56 n14. Just waiting for the clutch to go next 🤣
🙌🙇Thanks for the videos! Since you rebored the cylinder in the block, do you not need to "resize" or get a head gasket to account for the fractionally larger cylinder?
I get your point but I don’t think it matters, the head gasket isn’t tight with the cylinder walls anyway.. If you have your head or blocked skimmed then you WILL need a thicker head gasket however!
@@GeorgeAusters thanks for the information! I hadn’t realised that we can account for a skimmed head with a thicker gasket - the Haynes manual suggests not to skim it though, not sure why 🤔 Hopefully my r56’s engine won’t need that though, I’m hoping worst case is similar to what you’ve done, best case new head gasket 🤞
Hi, great video, wouldn't it be ideal to put the pistons at 1/2 stroke before you put the cylinder head on initially? Depending on the positions of the camshafts would you not risk touching a valve?
I didnt see what position the crank shaft should be in when putting the sprocket in place. The cams are locked but the crank is moved multiple times during reassembly. Is it #1 TDC? These videos are fantastic!
You cannot place the VVT sprocket inlet camshaft randomly as 10 out of 10 do on UA-cam, the arrow at the back must point upwards so that the self-adjusting space in the sprocket is centered in the middle so that the ECU can adjust equally to the left and to the right. The 4 oil holes are also opposite each other, although the difference cannot be measured.
@@GeorgeAusters Ah, yes a full rotation of the crankshaft. you are right. I thought you meant a full rotation of the camshaft. Love your video btw. planning to rebuilt the N14 engine of my wifes Mini and this is very useful.
When you were torqueing the crankshaft bolt you said it needed to rotate 180 degrees. What you did was rotate the bolt almost 360 degrees. It looked like you mistook 180 for a full circle. Or was the specification more than 180?
Can anyone recommend me a good torque wrench, tempted by Halfords advanced but they’ve put prices up and the ranges aren’t quite what I’m looking for. 20-200nm don’t mind digital, or fancy. Cheers?
@@GeorgeAusters nice one. Funnily enough, nearly grabbed the sealey one. Only thing that put me off is it’s massive apparently. For if your in a tight spot etc not ideal. But appreciated man. Merry Christmas
Hello , this is an old video , but I have a question : I have an n14 s r56 , and the engine has been boosted. The bores have been replaced with new made of cast iron, hybrid turbo and software. The pistons have been replaced with new one. The problem is the BOV turns off when you boost the turbo(maybe can’t handle the pressure) . Every piston has been replaced with new one, and every one has been broken. On the diagnostic It says “ super knocking (detonation) in the cylinders. Can someone help me why would this be happening? Could this be from the BOV dropping the pressure ? Thank you for every one who suggests a solution ❤
I would of just done one bolt at a time, I wouldn’t of used new bolts in the first place, certainly wouldn’t of bought new bolts twice 😂 been doing that for years no probs 👍
@@GeorgeAusters hi George, having done many many engine rebuilds over the years I have re-used the stretch bolts in almost all occasions. Lots of these engines were tuned and lasted many years no issues. If you’re fussy there is actually dimensions for the amount of stretch permitted, not that I’ve checked. With regards the head gasket, I’ve actually reused old MLS gaskets with success, but that’s another story! Doing one bolt at once would of been the best way to do it, that’s what you do when you change head bolts to uprated ARP studs on a working engine. Sometimes experience is better than the book. All the best James
Great to see another N14 video George. I just finished my N14 build a month ago.
A couple observations/tips:
Grab a couple extra VANOS bolts. Chances are you won't need them, but it's $10 insurance to make sure the project keeps going instead of waiting for a couple bolts if things don't line up quite right.
Don't reuse the 3 timing chain bearing bolts (The silver ones from outside the block). They have a nasty habit of shearing off where the threads meet the shank when you try to pull torque on them putting them back in.
TIS instructions mention to lightly oil the threads of the main bearing gridle and cylinder head bolts. When I took the bolts out of their packaging (I went with oem bolts for main bearing and elring for cylinder head bolts), I found the threads to have some debris like a couple burrs and dust and what not. That made be cleaned them all off with brake clean and re-coat them with a little engine oil.
The 2 blind plugs that covers the last pair of main bearing bolts should get a light smearing of rtv to prevent oil seeping out. Tap them in with a deep socket.
I also used an elring oil pan gasket. 12nm felt like too little clamping force and indeed I found a couple bolt that let a little oil seep out over a couple hundred KMs. I re-tightened the bolts to 15nm and the leaks have not returned. I'm thinking 12nm may be the torque when used with rtv like the TIS steps.
Look forward to your next video!
Nice job! 2 notes : with 1 missing bolt the down force is not perfectly distributed across the surface and perhaps you could wait or postpone the final torque. Not a big deal anyway. 2 you could use the old crankshaft seal to push in place the new one then on top a wide piece of wood that you could hammer in centre to distribute the force equally. I think it would be safer for the new seal...
It looks so good and clean I can't wait to see it started🤩
When I replaced my timing chain, I was advised to soak the new chain in oil overnight prior to fitment. Glad you did the same sir👍
Yeah not the best to run it dry👍🏻
Ouch about the missing washers, thanks to your heads up, i made sure I didn't miss that, thank you!!! My N14 is coming right along.
Best of luck👍🏻
Great job George can't wait to see it back in the car and running have a Great Christmas
Me too lol! Have a great Christmas too Chris!
Great video!!
Thanks!
Really enjoying this engine rebuild. Great video as usual. Happy Christmas mate
Thanks Simon, Merry Christmas!
Looking forward to the first start up, when I started mine for the first time after a rebuild I had everything crossed 😁
Anything go wrong?
@@GeorgeAusters luckily no started on the button, but that's because I've almost replaced everything over the last five years of owning a r56 n14. Just waiting for the clutch to go next 🤣
Well done George
Thanks Raymond!
Thanks for the video George, I have been looking forward to seeing the reassembly
Thanks!
Excellent mate. Keep it up, have a great Christmas.
Thanks Lee, you too!
Great video George. Happy Christmas 😎
You too David!
Of course, you can reuse head gaskets, especially metal ones
Nice work George👍🏼
Thanks Iain!
Well done mate👍
Thanks mate!
Good job👏. Merry xmas.
Thanks mate, you too!
Hi George which tool kit would be best for replacing rear bushing on bmw e92?
You turned the crank pulley bolt 360 degrees .. I was waiting for it to snap!
Oh no he didn’t
I didn’t lol
One complete revolution equals 360 degrees. I have watched it again to be sure. You turned it one full revolution for sure!
@@elliottpeters2996I think you misinterpreted what I said… The line I drew on I was essentially just flipping it over, not doing a full rotation of it
Nice Vid George, using this as a guide for rebuilding my n14. What timing chain did you use? At the end you say Iwis but there's a Febi box?
I’ve linked all the parts in this video here: MINI COOPER S ENGINE REBUILD COSTS AND PARTS LISTED!
ua-cam.com/video/MBIeN-5R_hU/v-deo.html
Fantastic, cheers👍@@GeorgeAusters
🙌🙇Thanks for the videos! Since you rebored the cylinder in the block, do you not need to "resize" or get a head gasket to account for the fractionally larger cylinder?
I get your point but I don’t think it matters, the head gasket isn’t tight with the cylinder walls anyway.. If you have your head or blocked skimmed then you WILL need a thicker head gasket however!
@@GeorgeAusters thanks for the information! I hadn’t realised that we can account for a skimmed head with a thicker gasket - the Haynes manual suggests not to skim it though, not sure why 🤔
Hopefully my r56’s engine won’t need that though, I’m hoping worst case is similar to what you’ve done, best case new head gasket 🤞
@@ankur22 My head and block were fine and didn't need skimming.. It's crazy how people just skim it for no reason.
thank you for the video! does everything you just did in this video and the previous one goes the same with the N18? or there is some difference?
Everything is very similar, just double check with torque specs etc
Hi, great video, wouldn't it be ideal to put the pistons at 1/2 stroke before you put the cylinder head on initially? Depending on the positions of the camshafts would you not risk touching a valve?
Yes it is best to👍🏻
I didnt see what position the crank shaft should be in when putting the sprocket in place. The cams are locked but the crank is moved multiple times during reassembly. Is it #1 TDC? These videos are fantastic!
All pistons remain at half way of their stroke
The crankshaft locking pin will need to be inserted into the flywheel
You cannot place the VVT sprocket inlet camshaft randomly as 10 out of 10 do on UA-cam, the arrow at the back must point upwards so that the self-adjusting space in the sprocket is centered in the middle so that the ECU can adjust equally to the left and to the right. The 4 oil holes are also opposite each other, although the difference cannot be measured.
Just doing this job and this comment is golden. Thank you!!
Great to see the mini back in the videos, out of interest, what’s the costs involved?
A lot.. lol I’ll make a video once it’s done with all the costs👍🏻
Don’t ask 🙈🤦🏽
Nice video! Just asking why you haven't used arp bolts😅
No need👍🏻
Hi i have a bmw e90 320d just wanted to know is it normal to feel some engine sound in the cabin as well or is it something to worry about
Reply?
exhaust sprocket is 90 deg, intake is 180.
Yes correct. The specs I mentioned were for the N18 engine👍🏻
If the digits on the camshaft are at the bottom side and you do a full rotation the digits are at the bottom again ;-)
The camshaft turns half as the speed of the crankshaft.. 1 turn of the crankshaft = half a turn of the camshaft
@@GeorgeAusters Ah, yes a full rotation of the crankshaft. you are right. I thought you meant a full rotation of the camshaft. Love your video btw. planning to rebuilt the N14 engine of my wifes Mini and this is very useful.
How much roughly did the rebuild cost you? Im debatiing doing the same with all genuine parts. Great work keep it up!
Watch my engine build costs video
The timing chain bolt on top needs an aluminum washer seal.. On a N18 enigne for sure, maybe on the n14 not
Yeah I was thinking so too but the bolt didn’t come with one
@GeorgeAusters yeh u have to buy it separately, its the same with peugeot
The exhaust camshaft bolt is 20Nm plus 90degrees, not 180 degrees.
Correct.. it’s 180 degrees for the N18👍🏻
When you were torqueing the crankshaft bolt you said it needed to rotate 180 degrees. What you did was rotate the bolt almost 360 degrees. It looked like you mistook 180 for a full circle. Or was the specification more than 180?
No I did 180 degrees.. the engine moves slightly in the stand so maybe that’s why you’re getting confused
how much have you spent on your rebuild
I made a video on all the parts and costs
Don't see no crankshaft oil seal .
Watch the next part👍🏻
Can anyone recommend me a good torque wrench, tempted by Halfords advanced but they’ve put prices up and the ranges aren’t quite what I’m looking for. 20-200nm don’t mind digital, or fancy. Cheers?
I’ve linked 2 in the description👍🏻
@@GeorgeAusters nice one. Funnily enough, nearly grabbed the sealey one. Only thing that put me off is it’s massive apparently. For if your in a tight spot etc not ideal. But appreciated man. Merry Christmas
Hello , this is an old video , but I have a question : I have an n14 s r56 , and the engine has been boosted. The bores have been replaced with new made of cast iron, hybrid turbo and software. The pistons have been replaced with new one. The problem is the BOV turns off when you boost the turbo(maybe can’t handle the pressure) . Every piston has been replaced with new one, and every one has been broken. On the diagnostic It says “ super knocking (detonation) in the cylinders. Can someone help me why would this be happening? Could this be from the BOV dropping the pressure ? Thank you for every one who suggests a solution ❤
Usual BMW con trick.
❤👌
I would of just done one bolt at a time, I wouldn’t of used new bolts in the first place, certainly wouldn’t of bought new bolts twice 😂 been doing that for years no probs 👍
These bolts NEED to be replaced as they’re stretch bolts
@@GeorgeAusters hi George, having done many many engine rebuilds over the years I have re-used the stretch bolts in almost all occasions. Lots of these engines were tuned and lasted many years no issues. If you’re fussy there is actually dimensions for the amount of stretch permitted, not that I’ve checked.
With regards the head gasket, I’ve actually reused old MLS gaskets with success, but that’s another story! Doing one bolt at once would of been the best way to do it, that’s what you do when you change head bolts to uprated ARP studs on a working engine.
Sometimes experience is better than the book.
All the best James
Yeah I’m sure things can be reused but I’d rather just be on the safe side of things for the sake of a bit of money.. I’m not skimping on this engine!
cor the sake of a few quid , I would always use new bolts where rhe stretch bolts are used.
George i wish you would keep your hand out of the camera in your vids!!!!
One click on a torque wrench is enough.
Such a stupid design on how the timing chain cover is part of the engine casing.
stop with the multiple clicks of the torque wrench. once is enough
I’m just double checking👍🏻
@@GeorgeAusters you don't need to mate. As soon as it clicks the bolt is torqued to yield. ps what ever happen to the deisel e46?
@@andrewbevan7082 I’ve had it on numerous occasions when it’s clicked once and then it’s not actually torqued and will go a bit more
I not having a go. just trying to help. merry Christmas.
Have a read on norbar website. About 10 things your doing wrong with torque wrench. It exsplains it very well.