Smash 'n Grab - Cassin Ridge, Denali June 2018
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- Опубліковано 25 сер 2024
- cascadeclimber...
Between June 2 and June 11, Priti and I climbed the Cassin Ridge on the South Face of Denali approaching via the NE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier (the “Valley of Death”), spending 6 days on route (including 1 rest/weather day at 17,700ft), summiting on June 9, and descending the West Buttress route. The whole trip was 10 days 7 hours door-to-door from Seattle.
The Cassin Ridge is the second most popular route on Denali, with an average of 9 successful climbers each year, compared to an average of 584 successful climbers each year on the West Buttress route over the past decade. We carried everything up and over, climbing Ground-Up, with 38lbs packs each at the start, no sleds, and moving camp as we climbed, without caches.
It was a Smash ’n’ Grab, meaning we decided to go at the last minute when we saw a good weather window. We watched Denali weather every day since early May until there was about a week of good weather. It took 24 hours from being at work on a Friday afternoon deciding to pull the trigger to being at Kahiltna Base Camp (including packing, Ranger orientation, flights, etc). We climbed Rainier 3 times the month and a half before our trip (Gib Ledges, Kautz, and Liberty Ridge), sleeping in the summit crater the weekend before. Still, we took Diamox while on Denali and had 2 weeks of food/fuel in case we felt altitude on route. Luckily, we had no altitude issues, and were only bounded by our own fitness, weather, and desire to move only when the sun was on us. Overall, weather was windless, clear, and sunny during the days with a few flurries at night.
It was an “old-school” style of climbing, slow and heavy, while most folks nowadays opt to acclimatize on the West Buttress and climb the Cassin Ridge starting from 14,000ft camp on the West Buttress, then climb light-and-fast via the Seattle ’72 ramp or the West Rib (Chicken Gully) in a few days - this was our plan for our attempt last year with Ilia Slobodov, but didn’t get the weather window. Overall, a very successful trip, and we’re so excited to have pulled it off, after 3 years of dreaming of this route.
This video does such a good job at showing how huge the route is and how classic the climbing is, awesome job! On the bucket list for sure.
Damn! That's some serious mountaineering, congrats guys!
What a beautiful route! I just read your article on Uphill Athlete and I'm so glad you made this video. Definitely one of my favorites from you guys.
Thanks for sharing. Stoked for you guys.
CONGRATS!!!!!!!!!!!! Very beautiful!!!!! CHAPEAU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Best Wishes.
That looks so fun and lots of good weather !!
Phenomenal music choices mate
Such a well made video!
Great video, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for posting, so epic , and good song choices
nice phography mah dude. kudosssss
Just curious. How many technical expeditions have you guys done before doing this?
Eight straight days of good weather on Denali must be some kind of record. gh
The sound track was by Hall and Oates, right? They are my favorite, definitely the best American rock and roll band, maybe best evah.
How are you route finding here? Have you done this route with a guide before? Are you using GPS the entire way up?
A seriously impressive smash and grab! Did you feel acclimatised enough with just your few nights on Rainier?
After the ice storm, my wife only sleeps in hostels or RV's.