Thanks for taking the time to post this. There were plenty of brake, rollbar, and other tune guides, but not much on this. I knew when I adjust the springs, I should be adjusting the rebound and bump also, but I had no idea how to figure out what adjustments to make.
I'm trying to figure out how when you arrived at .510 how that automatically translated to 10.5. I'm doing this on a e-class Honda and my decimal that I ended up with for the front is .150. So now what?? How does that relate to a damping number?
I can answer your first question. His 0.510 seems to be a typo. It should’ve been 10.510 and then he rounded it to 10.5, which is why he put the equals sign there.
Hey, good video. Quick question. In the first you showed the formulas (1:08). Then later (6:04) you showed them in use and the formula was different. One had the RH squared and the other one did not. Which way is correct? Also, would I not need the rebound and bump for both the front and rear? Thanks
Hello, there is a typo in the second formula, All RH should be squared as shown in 1:08. As far as rebounds and bumps, I have done more experimenting with in time. Run your rebound around 9.0-12.0 and bumps 3.0-4.5. this will give you a great traction rating in any or most cars. Thanks for watching
Hello , in your REBOUND Formula shouldn't that .510 be 10.510 ? I do see you have it correct after the = sign but if anyone is doing there calculations off your numbers, there not going to see 0.510.. If I'm wrong my bad...
Higher bumps means stiffer suspension. Lower bumps will absorbed/cushion on bumps. Higher rebounds tend to keep the tires on the ground but too much can cause bouncing. Hope this helps
So what are you supposed to do when the formula gives you a number that's above what the sliders offer? IE: final number being 14.14 when the slider tops at 13?
I know this is a stupid question but I ask it as I don't have good knowledge on these things. Do you use those numbers that you get for rebound and bump with any spring rate or does your spring rates need to be a specific number to go with those bump and rebound numbers that you get after the calculations and formulas?
No such thing as a dumb question here! During my time cresting setups I have cne to find s specific combo between. Your shocks and springs resulting usually identical numbers for nearly ever Oval. This can only vary based on if the driver wants the car more loose or tight. Overall your just giving the car ground clearance, stability and loosening/tightening the car with these settings
After the initial base setup, are there any performance or handling issues that would indicate your basic damping setup needs adjusting? I'm assuming that every time you make significant adjustments to the springs, you re-adjust the damping. But if you make big adjustments to aero or roll bars, should you recheck damping also?
UnivegaSuperSport dampening is based off car weight not roll bars. Adjust the springs before dampening. Dampening basically keeps the cafs tires connected to the ground as much as possible. If you bottoming out a domt want to sacrifice goingbhigher on springs you would stiffen your rebounds which will not allow the car to sink as easy when hitting bumps in road. There are many ways to tune in this game, remember loose is fast and the lower you can get your cars center of gravity will (usually) lead to better grip and times.
There are internet sources that I used to put this together. I have seen other videos with same formulas too. To he honest, I dont even use my own video formula lol
Atte Nurmi dampening is not measured in Feet nor Time, its measured by weight which is why all of the components of the equation deal with weight and strength of suspension numbers. Bumps and rebounds specifically are adjusted to keep maximum tire contact to the ground when dealing with any bumps in the road. For example, if you were building for a Rio track variant you would want a stiffer rebound to counter the pressure created by those bumps on the road. If you were to have a soft rebound you would notice loss of traction over varous bumps. The formula is to help get you within the range (+3 or -3) of the equation result.
TNR ARIES Ok. So what does it mean when the value is between 1 to 12? I'd expect something like Newtons per inch or so but this clearly isn't that. I'm trying to convert this to a metric system and I got bit trouble figuring out the how the units work.
@@ariesmotorsports4156 Just FYI that isn't true. That is spring rate, and not dampening. Dampening is to keep your car from losing traction AFTER a bump, not from the bump itself, because you don't want the springs to throw you around like a trampoline. Dampeners are simply a way to tune the suspension with how how quickly it can react to change. Springs are always the primary tuning force, and dampers prevent the springs from springing off of bumps (Rebound settings) and bump is used to absorb secondary wave motions, so it helps to bleed off energy, but too much bump will defeat the purpose of the springs. I have a much more accurate formula. I find that all the formulas I have found so far use some really really illogical methods. Weight and ride height is smart, but why is this formula using the weight distribution and different ride heights for settings that apply to the both front and rear? That makes zero sense. Suspension tuning is a factor of how much weight is over each spring, and how much travel you have to work with, and like I said springs are the PRIMARY means. In forza dampeners dampen a static amount, so it is not based on total weight or spring rate, and never really has to be adjusted for anything besides what type of suspension you are running (race/offroad for example), and weight bias. It doesn't matter if you have two cars that are tuned for racing if one is a lotus elise and the other is a ferrari 488, if they both have something like a 44% forward weight bias, the dampener settings can be identical, but the spring rates will be drastically different, and they will have identical handling at similar ride heights.
@@dreiak can you show me your formula cause yeah this isnt really clicking right. I mean i cant even get the right numbers to begin with and really dont have a clue where to start low key
That's juat how you calculate the average threshold for each car however you generally want to run front springs and low as they can without bottoming out which adds grip, and the rear staggerd higher than the front (example: Front 400lbs rear 500lbs)... The larger the difference between the front spring to rear the rear spring the looser the car gets. Bumps I personally like to run on every car is around 9.0 - 12.0 and rebounds I like 3.0 - 5.0. This range gives you great grip and more contact between the tire and the road.
so after all that ..you're trying to tell me ...that the bump damper setting for that corvette is 1.7 ...wow ....just wow....that's so wrong it's hysterical...at that setting your dampers will be a complete joke and betray you at every turn ..the amount of G that car can handle ..you need much ..Much stiffer dampers ...either you did your formula wrong ...or its crap ...take that car online and it'll get Eaton
Shaun Davids so your either pretty stupid or new to the game if you are having to watch setup videos. SO none of the less, it is a estimation formula idiot which is why I say that in the video and also why it has a variable of +3 or -3 to the number you get.. i state that it is indeed a estimation formula for a all around car but not track specific... once again pay atention to details and your questions or concerns will be most likely answered. I suggest you gain some wits before telling those who do mass tuning and hold countlesss #1 and Top 10 worlds in multiple classes because we know what we are doing and if we didnt such times wouldnt be achieved. So thank you for watching, sorry it didnt help you but you clesrly didnt follow instructions as most people dont. Have a nice day.... end of rant. 👍
No offense but this is a video game and the in-game mechanics do not work like that here. For example, my class B mazda RX-8 has been super tuned to compete with LB cars. Though I did not use guides, the setup for each different mazda is very similar to what's in this video. I was surprised at first because it was completely unrealistic, but it's what you have to do because the in-game physics for FM7 aren't realistic. Also questioning the best is somewhat stupid. They put hundreds if not thousands of hours into this in order to bring you this info and these are just base tunes not what you should actually use. It will just get you close to what you want then you edit it to be more like your driving style ie. most of my cars use a 44-42% rear brake bias, and because I'm using a crappy xbox 360 controller I'm forced to use a lower BP of around 80% instead of 200% because the brakes will insta lock at that BP or really anything above 90% in general for me. So that's why I do what I find comfortable and take some of this advice with a grain of salt. The more you tune AND UNDERSTAND the more you can tune cars to fit your play style.
Thanks for taking the time to post this. There were plenty of brake, rollbar, and other tune guides, but not much on this. I knew when I adjust the springs, I should be adjusting the rebound and bump also, but I had no idea how to figure out what adjustments to make.
Glad the video helped, thanks for watching!
Fixed my understeering problem! Also has the car handling bumps much better! Thank you so much!
Is there maybe a chance you can make a video while you do the calculations aswell
Thanks for taking the time and doing these but im still so confused at all of it
Thank you for this helpful guide. I have been starting to expand my knowledge with the Forza tuning system; this is really useful.
I'm trying to figure out how when you arrived at .510 how that automatically translated to 10.5. I'm doing this on a e-class Honda and my decimal that I ended up with for the front is .150. So now what?? How does that relate to a damping number?
I can answer your first question. His 0.510 seems to be a typo. It should’ve been 10.510 and then he rounded it to 10.5, which is why he put the equals sign there.
Hey, good video. Quick question. In the first you showed the formulas (1:08). Then later (6:04) you showed them in use and the formula was different. One had the RH squared and the other one did not. Which way is correct? Also, would I not need the rebound and bump for both the front and rear? Thanks
Hello, there is a typo in the second formula, All RH should be squared as shown in 1:08. As far as rebounds and bumps, I have done more experimenting with in time. Run your rebound around 9.0-12.0 and bumps 3.0-4.5. this will give you a great traction rating in any or most cars. Thanks for watching
Hello , in your REBOUND Formula shouldn't that .510 be 10.510 ? I do see you have it correct after the = sign but if anyone is doing there calculations off your numbers, there not going to see 0.510.. If I'm wrong my bad...
Hey bro , see you’re still active , quick question . On a track like Nurburgring, do I play with bumps to fix the inconsistency over bumps?
Higher bumps means stiffer suspension. Lower bumps will absorbed/cushion on bumps. Higher rebounds tend to keep the tires on the ground but too much can cause bouncing. Hope this helps
So what are you supposed to do when the formula gives you a number that's above what the sliders offer?
IE: final number being 14.14 when the slider tops at 13?
Thanks for explaining but it’s still confusing … would you mind demonstrating? I see too many numbers.
I know this is a stupid question but I ask it as I don't have good knowledge on these things. Do you use those numbers that you get for rebound and bump with any spring rate or does your spring rates need to be a specific number to go with those bump and rebound numbers that you get after the calculations and formulas?
No such thing as a dumb question here! During my time cresting setups I have cne to find s specific combo between. Your shocks and springs resulting usually identical numbers for nearly ever Oval. This can only vary based on if the driver wants the car more loose or tight. Overall your just giving the car ground clearance, stability and loosening/tightening the car with these settings
I’m trying this , are there any more tutorials on different items of tuning
hey i tried it and i got a value outside of the range what do?
After the initial base setup, are there any performance or handling issues that would indicate your basic damping setup needs adjusting? I'm assuming that every time you make significant adjustments to the springs, you re-adjust the damping. But if you make big adjustments to aero or roll bars, should you recheck damping also?
UnivegaSuperSport dampening is based off car weight not roll bars. Adjust the springs before dampening. Dampening basically keeps the cafs tires connected to the ground as much as possible. If you bottoming out a domt want to sacrifice goingbhigher on springs you would stiffen your rebounds which will not allow the car to sink as easy when hitting bumps in road. There are many ways to tune in this game, remember loose is fast and the lower you can get your cars center of gravity will (usually) lead to better grip and times.
I drift but I’m just here for the knowledge
Hey man, how do you come up with these? Asking for a friend, he is extremely curious.
There are internet sources that I used to put this together. I have seen other videos with same formulas too. To he honest, I dont even use my own video formula lol
So I did the formula with the correct numbers, but my front formula ended up with 33. Is there a flaw in my ride heights that could cause this?
What car are you using
I just tried to use the formula and i do not think it is working for me
What is this formula based on? Can you please explain what are the values that it gives out? Time in seconds? ft?
Atte Nurmi dampening is not measured in Feet nor Time, its measured by weight which is why all of the components of the equation deal with weight and strength of suspension numbers. Bumps and rebounds specifically are adjusted to keep maximum tire contact to the ground when dealing with any bumps in the road. For example, if you were building for a Rio track variant you would want a stiffer rebound to counter the pressure created by those bumps on the road. If you were to have a soft rebound you would notice loss of traction over varous bumps. The formula is to help get you within the range (+3 or -3) of the equation result.
TNR ARIES Ok. So what does it mean when the value is between 1 to 12? I'd expect something like Newtons per inch or so but this clearly isn't that. I'm trying to convert this to a metric system and I got bit trouble figuring out the how the units work.
@@ariesmotorsports4156 Just FYI that isn't true. That is spring rate, and not dampening. Dampening is to keep your car from losing traction AFTER a bump, not from the bump itself, because you don't want the springs to throw you around like a trampoline. Dampeners are simply a way to tune the suspension with how how quickly it can react to change. Springs are always the primary tuning force, and dampers prevent the springs from springing off of bumps (Rebound settings) and bump is used to absorb secondary wave motions, so it helps to bleed off energy, but too much bump will defeat the purpose of the springs.
I have a much more accurate formula. I find that all the formulas I have found so far use some really really illogical methods. Weight and ride height is smart, but why is this formula using the weight distribution and different ride heights for settings that apply to the both front and rear? That makes zero sense. Suspension tuning is a factor of how much weight is over each spring, and how much travel you have to work with, and like I said springs are the PRIMARY means. In forza dampeners dampen a static amount, so it is not based on total weight or spring rate, and never really has to be adjusted for anything besides what type of suspension you are running (race/offroad for example), and weight bias. It doesn't matter if you have two cars that are tuned for racing if one is a lotus elise and the other is a ferrari 488, if they both have something like a 44% forward weight bias, the dampener settings can be identical, but the spring rates will be drastically different, and they will have identical handling at similar ride heights.
@@dreiak can you show me your formula cause yeah this isnt really clicking right. I mean i cant even get the right numbers to begin with and really dont have a clue where to start low key
Erik Garcia cool so what is your formula?
Is the +3 to -3 whole numbers or just by .1?
Sorry for late reply, they can anything up to whole numbers.
Wd41 % not possible maxed out on 13
So do you leave your spring rates at the max and min?
That's juat how you calculate the average threshold for each car however you generally want to run front springs and low as they can without bottoming out which adds grip, and the rear staggerd higher than the front (example: Front 400lbs rear 500lbs)... The larger the difference between the front spring to rear the rear spring the looser the car gets. Bumps I personally like to run on every car is around 9.0 - 12.0 and rebounds I like 3.0 - 5.0. This range gives you great grip and more contact between the tire and the road.
Thankyou
so after all that ..you're trying to tell me ...that the bump damper setting for that corvette is 1.7 ...wow ....just wow....that's so wrong it's hysterical...at that setting your dampers will be a complete joke and betray you at every turn ..the amount of G that car can handle ..you need much ..Much stiffer dampers ...either you did your formula wrong ...or its crap ...take that car online and it'll get Eaton
Shaun Davids so your either pretty stupid or new to the game if you are having to watch setup videos. SO none of the less, it is a estimation formula idiot which is why I say that in the video and also why it has a variable of +3 or -3 to the number you get.. i state that it is indeed a estimation formula for a all around car but not track specific... once again pay atention to details and your questions or concerns will be most likely answered. I suggest you gain some wits before telling those who do mass tuning and hold countlesss #1 and Top 10 worlds in multiple classes because we know what we are doing and if we didnt such times wouldnt be achieved. So thank you for watching, sorry it didnt help you but you clesrly didnt follow instructions as most people dont. Have a nice day.... end of rant. 👍
No offense but this is a video game and the in-game mechanics do not work like that here. For example, my class B mazda RX-8 has been super tuned to compete with LB cars. Though I did not use guides, the setup for each different mazda is very similar to what's in this video. I was surprised at first because it was completely unrealistic, but it's what you have to do because the in-game physics for FM7 aren't realistic.
Also questioning the best is somewhat stupid. They put hundreds if not thousands of hours into this in order to bring you this info and these are just base tunes not what you should actually use. It will just get you close to what you want then you edit it to be more like your driving style ie. most of my cars use a 44-42% rear brake bias, and because I'm using a crappy xbox 360 controller I'm forced to use a lower BP of around 80% instead of 200% because the brakes will insta lock at that BP or really anything above 90% in general for me. So that's why I do what I find comfortable and take some of this advice with a grain of salt. The more you tune AND UNDERSTAND the more you can tune cars to fit your play style.