Love the 289 Fords. Years ago my buddy had a Sunbeam Tiger with a 289 Hi-Po in it, that thing was a screamer, with a Doug Nash 5-speed behind it. Take care Brent, love your builds.
I have been a 289 fan for over 50 years. Rebuilt a number of them and they just turned out so sweet. Thanks for the video Brent. Should be a little screamer with that cam and a bit of head work.
Mr. llykins I have a question for you I am going to be doing some crank work and I want to know is there a specific position or direction to grind or chamfer doesn't it have something to do with oil direction thank you
I have a question you dont see much about. When i dissasembled my motor there is a 1/4 freeze plug in a galley going into the distributor shaft area. Is that needed. I removed mine and was going to put it back in. Can you explain more about if you have time. Thank you
Yes i agree. I never see much attention to this area. Also there are many different cam retainer plates. Some have 2 ears, three and 4 ears or rounds. All the early blocks i have seen have the 2 ears. I have a three ear with a oil slot going to the 1/4 oil hole that goes to the distributor. Do you ever not put the 1/4 plug in with some retainer plates? I see different thickness of plates too. What are the correct combination of plates to be used. Looking to educate myself on this area. I just don't see much on this area. Thank you for the reply's and great content you supply to us.
@@theallicat38 I always plug every hole. I actually tap them for 1/4" NPT if they're not already tapped for that. Cup plugs can come out under oil pressure. Doesn't really matter which thrust plate you use, they all work.
In the beginning of your video. It sounded like your being pretty stringent on keeping it period correct. If so, did the Shelby 289's run a roller lifters and cam? It's definately an upgrade just thought your main focus was period correct/
No original engines had roller cams, nor did they have metric ring packs, forged pistons, etc. We have to draw a line somewhere, otherwise we'd be putting rope seals in, etc.
What kind of rpm will this be capable of? Any power expectation? I like that they’re keeping it a 289 even though it may not make the power of the bigger displacement options.
Back in 1980 my 289 turned 7200 RPM with stock rods and 5/16’s rod bolts. Made hundreds of 11/12 second quarter mile passes.... I still have the engine and last week pulled an intake valve out to find that the intake port/bowl area were only very mildly ported, had 79% throats and single angle valve job with the factory sharp ledge just outside the valve. I’m going to do some bowl work, throat sized up to 90% and proper 3 angle valve job and slap the engine back together.....should run 10’s
Blister pack Pioneer stuff does bring pleasant memories. I did my first 302 around 1975. Ah...
Love the 289 Fords. Years ago my buddy had a Sunbeam Tiger with a 289 Hi-Po in it, that thing was a screamer, with a Doug Nash 5-speed behind it. Take care Brent, love your builds.
Recently found your channel. Appreciate your detailed videos. Have learned something every time I've watched to help with my sbf build.
I have been a 289 fan for over 50 years. Rebuilt a number of them and they just turned out so sweet. Thanks for the video Brent. Should be a little screamer with that cam and a bit of head work.
cam shaft recommendation please. I building a 1963 260 engine. I want very streetable engine.
I like that you're keeping it 289 cid....I wouldn't be able to resist making it a 331 stroker...with AFR 185 aluminum heads.
me to Joe.
great video!
i recently blew my blown 5.0 engine and having a friend put in a new block!
bummed but excited at the same time lol
Awesome Brent
Mr. llykins I have a question for you I am going to be doing some crank work and I want to know is there a specific position or direction to grind or chamfer doesn't it have something to do with oil direction thank you
I have a question you dont see much about. When i dissasembled my motor there is a 1/4 freeze plug in a galley going into the distributor shaft area. Is that needed. I removed mine and was going to put it back in. Can you explain more about if you have time. Thank you
If you don’t put it in, you’ll have some very low oil pressure.
Yes i agree. I never see much attention to this area. Also there are many different cam retainer plates. Some have 2 ears, three and 4 ears or rounds. All the early blocks i have seen have the 2 ears. I have a three ear with a oil slot going to the 1/4 oil hole that goes to the distributor. Do you ever not put the 1/4 plug in with some retainer plates? I see different thickness of plates too. What are the correct combination of plates to be used. Looking to educate myself on this area. I just don't see much on this area. Thank you for the reply's and great content you supply to us.
@@theallicat38 I always plug every hole. I actually tap them for 1/4" NPT if they're not already tapped for that. Cup plugs can come out under oil pressure. Doesn't really matter which thrust plate you use, they all work.
In the beginning of your video. It sounded like your being pretty stringent on keeping it period correct. If so, did the Shelby 289's run a roller lifters and cam? It's definately an upgrade just thought your main focus was period correct/
No original engines had roller cams, nor did they have metric ring packs, forged pistons, etc. We have to draw a line somewhere, otherwise we'd be putting rope seals in, etc.
What kind of rpm will this be capable of? Any power expectation? I like that they’re keeping it a 289 even though it may not make the power of the bigger displacement options.
It will be capable of a lot more than what it will do. This will be a 5500-6000 rpm engine, but it would easily turn 7500 if that was the goal.
Back in 1980 my 289 turned 7200 RPM with stock rods and 5/16’s rod bolts. Made hundreds of 11/12 second quarter mile passes.... I still have the engine and last week pulled an intake valve out to find that the intake port/bowl area were only very mildly ported, had 79% throats and single angle valve job with the factory sharp ledge just outside the valve. I’m going to do some bowl work, throat sized up to 90% and proper 3 angle valve job and slap the engine back together.....should run 10’s
What makes a shelby 289 different than a average 2or4 barrel 289 ?
Brent I need a 352 rebuilt 1966 f100 truck can you help me out