Great video Ash. I have made some rules for myself regarding my wardrobe: 1) No artificial fibers like polyester, stick to natural fibers like cotton, wool and linen. 2) Set quantity limits for shirts, trousers, suits, sports jackets etc. and stay within these limits. 3) Wait 24 hours before a purchase to figure out whether you really need this piece of clothing. When yes, make sure that two other pieces get removed from your wardrobe. These rules work well for me.
My father was a stylish man throughout his entire life. He liked high quality clothes and dismissed jeans and khaki pants as too common. When he passed away and my mom was going through his closets (yes multiples) she was shocked and hurt that he had numerous new clothes still in the original packaging that he bought and never wore. Instead of seeing his desire to look good as a sign of intelligence, she started to recognize his clothes purchasing as a secret addiction. As I approach 60, I am revisiting my personal appearance and selections of clothes. When one is young, one expects clothes to wear out and need replacing. When one is older, one realizes you will probably never get full utility out of the new items you buy. 😢. Therefore, I recommend embracing the notion of a minimalist foundation/capsule wardrobe. If one travels often, it makes packing easier and with less stress.
I truly enjoyed this video because I can relate to the subject. I am trying to stop buying more clothes for one simple reason: I ran out of closet space! I must mention that I NEVER buy my clothes at full retail price. I have ways of finding real bargains. And I buy high quality, mainly Italian made items that last for years. I still wear some pieces that I purchased 10-15 years ago and they still look great and fit me! I must admit that one of my weaknesses is sweaters. I love luxurious soft cashmere or wool sweaters and I stopped counting when I reached 70. I know it’s insane but it’s a fact. I realize that I don’t really need anymore clothes, but each season there’s a temptation when you see a new collection… Thank you for the video.
For me, the way I control my wardrobe size is by having a database of the clothes I need and how many of each I need. For things like shoes, boots and outerwear, it is easy, as these things will last decades so I buy once, cry once and then enjoy the benefits. For things that need to be replaced every few years like polo shirts, I try and find a brand that I like and then go back to them as required.
What is too much is too much. I reached a point where I am 99% complete in my wardrobe and am satisfied. The only thing I would do is replace some items with much higher quality ones instead of adding. The one thing I could always add are accessories. By alternating the clothes combination and varying the accessories a small sized wardrobe can be easily tripled in it's size. It's a skill to be learned.
I’m getting closer. I want 2 to 3 suits in every major color, light gray, gray, charcoal, navy, single black suit and single tan. I just need 3 to get my goal completed.
As a pro musician,and motorcycle rider,and, when i can go, a traveller to hot places, i have dinner suits, many bike outfits, then regular clothes too.
My sartorial journey isn’t all that different. Like you, my evolution really reached a precipice when I bought my first luxury mechanical watch. Subsequently, I treated myself to truly comfortable high quality handmade shoes. The last component was discovering that suits need not be uncomfortable by investing in proper cut and fit with better fabrics. After these events, I have been on accelerated trajectory to sartorial nirvana by taking more notice about the quality of the items I put on my person.
Hi friend, same thing happened to me when I bought my first Rolex, I changed everything from clothes to how take care of my self and before that I thought everything was fine but that watch changed everything for good, it made me feel special
@@emmanuelrodriguez5044 however a luxury watch isn't always the key. Many very rich people dress like hobos but drive a Ferrari and wear a rolex. Some simply love their miserable look (no names here) Or maybe it is a way for some in trying to be unnoticed.
I live in a stone cottage that was built in the 1830s, Ash. At this time, people owned far fewer clothes than they do today, and therefore there were far fewer closets in the home to store clothing. I've reached a point where my suits, sport jackets, blazers, shirts, etc., are quite literally crammed into two small closets...which are all there are in this house. Whenever I add a new item of clothing to my collection -I regularly haunt thrift stores and second-hand shops- I joke with the staff, saying: "Do you have any closet space for sale?" At some point, and soon, I'm going to have to either stop buying items or seriously weed garments out of my collection that I seldom or never wear. But I confess that I find it hard to let go of much of anything.
Such a great Rules! Thank You,Ash! My ex-boyfriend was very careful to his things,he could wear things a decades and they looked just perfect, I have always admired this in his personality and now it such a big pleasure to find your channel here and see that there at least two of this wonderful sustainable people
This is actually some very good advice. For myself, I have a set number of items in every category (including accesories), and I purposefully think like if I can have only 3 suits and 9 jackets, what would those be specifically. How many blazers, tweed jackets, etc. will I need to make them as versatile as they can get. Also, limiting it to natural fibers really helps with comfort and sustainability. I also found that I really like both versatility in choice and the worn-in feeling you get when you have an intensive connection with a certain piece of clothing, so to have them both, I have a very detailed seasonal approach to all my clothing, which means that while I may have two dozen shirts, a dozen pair of pants and a dozen jackets, I will only wear 9 shirts, 5 pairs of pants and 4 jackets in one season, so I get to really enjoy wearing them a lot. I get most seasonal with my ties, for understandable economic reasons. The more items I can afford in a category, the more specific I get with the seasonality; the less I have, the more versatile in season. This attitude really helped me limit my wardrobe and have a really thought through spending strategy.
A personal suggestion of mine would be to stay away from polyester or polyester blends. At the beginning of my style journey I bought a sport jacket and a suit which where polyester just to realize some time later how horrible they where. I donated both. I think it also important to take the time to educate yourself from different sources and with enough time to digest information.
Wow I thought I had enough with 3 suits and 12 shirts! For me a pivotal moment was understanding the capsule wardrobe concept. It’s been a huge step forward when being confronted with tempting bargains and when travelling: managed a 3 week summer holiday with 1 carry on Size case. Everything went with everything else so outfits were always fresh. That and the 1 item in and 1 out philosophy. Thanks for the video as usual.
Congratulations Ash on an exceptionally well-organized presentation! You succeeded in introducing John; extemporaneously describing the relevant parallels in your journeys; and in providing a tactile, physical revelation about the VALUE of quality (the satisfaction of acquiring and caring for good shoes). And most-impressive of all: You concluded by reminded us the SUBJECT of the presentation is JOHN, --the surrogate for many aspiring, fledgling, chaps. A salute to YOU, sir!
Ash what a great video. Fantastic suggestions for John and indeed us all. Rotation is the name of the game here. Whether that's one in one out for suits shirts etc or rotating pieces of less quality out as our resources allow us to buy a better quality. Donating or gifting items rotating out of our wardrobes to chaps to be so they can join us on this journey is a wonderful gift we can pass on.
More good material from The Chaps Guide Having enough appropriate storage is an important consideration in my clothing collection. Here in the UK, very few houses and flats have a lot of suitable wardrobe space. If you share your dwelling with a partner and/or children - then the demands on that limited space are greater still. I try to temper my purchase decisions with a consideration of how I'm going to be able to find suitable hanger or drawer space. To that end, I now have a "rule" that for every new garment coming in, at least one has to go out. To the charity shop or recycling centre as appropriate. "Appropriate storage" is also a consideration. Good quality garments really shouldn't be stored in draughty, damp lofts and garages. One chap I know returned from a 3-year assignment in Afghanistan to find that the half-dozen Saville-Row suits he'd inherited from his father had been attacked by mould and moths in his mother's loft. The sight of a precious silk top hat covered in tiny moth holes was not a happy one.
I love this video. It really spoke to me. I’m going to be 60 soon and just now learning the importance of buying quality. I’ve always purchased clothing trying to create a certain style but always the least expensive brand that never holds up. Even at my age im going to keep it in mind to purchase the best I can afford and hold off until I can find what im looking for. Im going to start with a fine pair of tan monkstrap shoes. Thanks Ash for the pep talk. Take care.
35 years ago I bought a black camel hair sport coat for 350 dollars at a top expensive mens store, I still have the jacket it still fits great and when I wore it, always got great comments on its classic look. That store sells suits today 5 thousand dollars..I almost fainted!
Good morning sirs. I will say ,I go with if I am adding to my wardrobe, so the same goes out, a different jacket in a jacket out etc. I have just found a mixed wool/blend country style sports jacket which was a slim fit in size 44 short that fitted rather well. I have worn it a few time now and had positive praise over it. cost £6 from a charity shop, a real bargain(which I must put forward to Ash's bargain challenge), as I wear a pocket square and a pin this does help with the overall look. Again some good points well said.
Wise words to live by in the sartorial world along with a lot of other subjects in life. BTW, lovely use of the expression 'Damascene moment' ! I shall have to use it in my next English language sparring match with the great 'unwashed' LOL!
Excellent topic. I can relate to this. I think that as collecting clothing items becomes more affordable as we age, or thru salary increases or whatever, it becomes an easier make a clothing item purchase decisions, rather than not spending, save up, and say purchase a more expensive item such as say an expensive motor vehicle, in the longer term. I would argue that rarely do you see a well dressed chap also driving an expensive auto, living in a dream house. Money burns a hole in your pocket. As Ralph Lauren says. “I dont design clothes.. I design dreams “
This may sound contrarian to the ideals of the discussion, but if I find an off the rack shirt or knit that fits well, and receives a multitude of genuine compliments- I buy a backup or two. Being very particular, there are too many times over the years I’ve damaged (or simply worn out ) a favorite item.. and it’s difficult to replace. For me- it makes more since to have two of something I will wear AND enjoy, than four different shirts that will seldom leave the closet. *shrugs shoulders*. I too, am guilty of shopping addiction. I think if we aren’t really using an item, why not give it to a friend? More happiness in giving, and so forth..
Firstly, I very much admire that tweed jacket you’re wearing. Very nice colours in it. I have recently developed a love for tweed. I recently got a blue Harris Tweed jacket, a Harris Tweed overcoat and a light brown 3 Piece Glen check suit. I am taking the suit to the tailors next week to have the sleeves shortened. Later in the year I am going to get a made to measure tweed suit from a good tailor in the city. The Glen check summer weight suit I got is so good looking, I can’t just “make do” with the sleeves not being short enough to show my shirt cuffs. The made to measure suit will be the most expensive suit I’ve ever bought at (the tailor said) is an average of £1600 so I’m going to have to save for it. Quality clothes really make me feel so much better physically and mentally.
I’m fortunate to be limited in terms of closet space, which has kept any sort of tendency to “collect” clothes I don’t wear in check. I mostly spend my money upgrading individual pieces, which feels way less sexy than hoarding multiples of the same item. The problem becomes justifying to my wife why *this* Oxford shirt is so much better than the *previous* Oxford shirt, when she can’t see the differences that I can. I don’t know if anyone else out there has ever said this before: “Babe, it’s long-staple cotton, it’s sooo much better! You can absolutely tell the difference, I swear!”
It is very important to buy items time after time. I made the mistake to buy ~30 „core“ items for about thousands euros at once and I do not wear any of this proudly except a leather backpack from The Bridge and a cashmere scarf of Lanificio Colombo. The rest seems so useless and not fitting in my more elegant wardrobe at all.. It is much better to shoot your shot at sale or maybe second hand to grab some nice items with high quality one by one as my last purchases were e.g. a wonderful Canali sports jacket or several shirts from Barba, Borrelli..
may be a bit weird but i would love for you to do a video on comfortable and high quality breifs or underwear. i feel like being comfortable in your own clothing is as important as being stylish. A video on thigh high socks would be great too.
Interesting topic Ash, I have had a good basic wardrobe of good quality since 1989 starting in Larh Germany. For me it is an interesting quality that less and of good quality is more. I usually go for the English style for suits like Daks or Aquscutum and the North American outdoor look for casual. harris tweed is now back in my wardrobe. Very practical. Thank you Ash. Starlight
Clothing addiction isn’t a problem for me - I’m retired and not rich - but when I buy clothes one important question I ask myself is “How well will this item fit in with what I already have?” I might lust after that burgundy paisley tie, for example, thinking it would go beautifully with a navy pinstripe suit. But since I have no intention of ever buying such a suit, I’ll pass on the tie, regretfully. There are only so many “looks” a man really needs for only so many situations, and if a man plans out his wardrobe intelligently he can’t go wrong following the adage of the ancient Greeks - moderation in all things.
Tie-wise I seem to have reached a plateau with eight formal and ten informal cravats all of the former are various types and kinds of silk with one cotton outlier and almost all the informal ones bis now have been upgraded to cotton from a far larger collection of artificial fibre ones. Almost two decades back I started my suit collection with essentially crappy suits in late 90s styles I didn't even realize back then they where in. About 5 years back I started my collection of made to measure suits in wool or linen and recently another summer suit in Cotton (sits next to me here at work, will be opened later today😺) but key here is fit (need to keep a couple of health issues in mind, though nothing visible, but this dictates the cut in ways incompatible with off-the-rack confectionary sizing), sustainability and the cuts I personally prefer (inspired by the very late 19th century up until the late Interbellum) and you can't get off-the-rack anyway. But I'm working from a rough outline and aim at having certain cuts, patterns and styles in a curated collection not an open-end eternal pattern of buying constantly. There certainly are additions to the "list" from things encountered during research but it's not eternally incomplete and buying is not an aim in itself. A bit like my cravat collection... I added a couple of knit ties over the years but this doesn't mean that it's an essentially complete collection of neckwear. (Oh and many a bow-tie which I'm currently in the process of changing to natural fibre items from a ton of articial fibre cheap ones) I donated to charity or gave away most of the items I need or want no longer for free so they may have a purposeful second career (everything in excellent or really good condition) so I'm essentially left with curating my collection but I still feel the "buying crappy stuff" phase had a purpose in constantly bettering my taste and was not a waste of money. Best regards and have fun curating your own collections Raoul G. Kunz
I own a lot of clothes and other things. Now I want to get rid of some of my clothes and things to declutter my life. My motto is now higher quality fewer things.
Hi ash, may i request for a content about clothing and mental health. Does acquiring essential things (clothing, shoes etc) means more satisfying life? Is the joy you found in sartorial journey lasting? Does it Improve your relationship with your family and friends? When some problems arise, (in, family or loneliness) does your possessions give you some relief and comfort? Always been wondering what it is like having almost all the advantages in life. Thanks! As always
Clothes are material. What makes a gentleman in first place are within. Manners, social skills, compassion, helpfulness, respect towards yourself and others. Things we rarely see these days. We see rather well dress greedy fellows, egoistic, arrogant, boastful, money lovers and without feelings. Once you master the good qualities you feel happy, fulfilled and eager to improve. We have to remember dressing nice should only be the cherry on top. Dressing nice should be worthy of you.
Great comments. With regard to shoes. Yes, I do have a collection, maybe 17 pairs of select shoes, all English made with wooden shoe trees, dust bags, and in their boxes with accompanying shoe horn. What's more, having been brought up within a military association, I take great pleasure polishing them, using good polish, good horse-hair brushes to achieve a great shine. Why do I have 17 pairs (excluding utility shoes for garden/casual/hiking etc.)? Let me give you an example. A little while back I went to the opera with my daughter. I chose to wear my gorgeous Alfred Dunn's tuxedo evening suit I hadn't worn for fifteen years or more (still fits perfectly). Only to find I didn't have black dress-shoes! I made a couple of phone calls for advice and told it would be acceptable to wear my black hi-shine semi-brogues which, while technically incorrect, would do in a crisis. Many might think this petty, more would not even consider it at all. But to me - it was important. Within a week I had purchased a fine pair of Barker's black dress shoes from eBay, a perfect fit that I could wear with confidence. To me, this is why an item drawn from a collection to fit the occasion is important to the properly dressed gentleman, and yes, always quality.
Have to admit I also have a lot more ties and shirts than I need. You have inspired me to go through these once I retire. Most of what I have has been from thrift stores but I always get high quality. I must say though I would think that King George the third could have done a better job patching his suit jacket 😂. Cheers Ron
The answer for me is when you run out of money, wardrobe space, or both. BTW that sports jacket looks a little too neat - the top button is sitting at angle because it is being pulled and it is pulled open below that button allowing your tie, shirt and trouser waistband to be seen 🤔
Quite an interesting subject. I've been wondering lately about my tie collection. It's far from big compared to the one you had. Just under thirty so I can use a different tie every day of February for an annual ties initiative a few of us take part in in Iceland. Many of them I bought on a sale (up to 90 percent off) knowing I would probably only use them once or twice a year. So I wonder if it was wise all things considered. On the other hand being a bit of a jo-jo when it comes to weight I need to own quite a few more clothes than I would prefer, in the hope that when I lose weight older clothes fit again and fear that when I gain weight the same rings true about my bigger items.
I always point out that if someone works in a place that requires suits, then they will need at least five suits. I always keep stuff around for the kind of job I MIGHT get, though, so still stash extra jeans and canvas shirts and lots of flannels that I don't always use in a year. Even though I'd rather dress for permanent autumn when I'm lucky if I get two weeks of autumn a year, there's still the holidays and Hawaiian shirts to consider in addition to the tweed and leather jacktes. Overall, maybe it's best to simplify things by just dressing like a World War 2 fighter pilot like Indiana Jones most of the time?
Indy is a man who knows how to dress well, tweed when not in action and full bush kit when in the field - I even considered naming my son Indiana (my surname is Jones) but the wife vetoed it!
Buy less, but buy better. Have a go to look that you don’t need to think about and that you could wear anywhere if required. Takes stress out of deciding
When you bring home more shirts a week than there are days in a week, then you have a problem. I bought 40 ties for 40$, even though i dont wear that many in a YEAR
One of our problems is when we use the words; "our collection". How did us humans ever consider our purchases our collection? Why do we collect things? Maybe some kind of human flaw. We justify ourselves by thinking we like something so much that we need to surround ourselves with it. We immerse ourselves and we jump in with both feet and don't know when to stop. Shopping is therapy! By the way Ash, you don't sound cured. You are still buying. Why don't you just stay out of stores? Stay off of eBay.
@@TheChapsGuide well, perhaps you'll indulge me sharing a quote from Terry Pratchett: "The reason that the rich were so rich, Vimes reasoned, was because they managed to spend less money. Take boots, for example. He earned thirty-eight dollars a month plus allowances. A really good pair of leather boots cost fifty dollars. But an affordable pair of boots, which were sort of OK for a season or two and then leaked like hell when the cardboard gave out, cost about ten dollars. Those were the kind of boots Vimes always bought, and wore until the soles were so thin that he could tell where he was in Ankh-Morpork on a foggy night by the feel of the cobbles. But the thing was that good boots lasted for years and years. A man who could afford fifty dollars had a pair of boots that’d still be keeping his feet dry in ten years’ time, while the poor man who could only afford cheap boots would have spent a hundred dollars on boots in the same time and would still have wet feet."
So my journey has been different. I used to have a couple of cheap suits I wore a couple of times a year. But after covid, I spent a lot of time on youtube watching channels like this. I got very interested in dressing like an adult. I bought a second hand suit that cost more than any other clothing item I ever had. It felt better than casual clothes. I was hooked. Now I have over 20 suits, tons of well made shirts and a number of sports jackets, and more shoes than I ever thought I would need. But they are all high quality items. So I don't know if I am addicted but it's not the low quality vs high quality issue. To be fair I spend a lot of money on clothes (~$6k a year) but other than watches it's about all I spend money on. Now watches I am addicted to I freely admit.
I imagine in today's economy that is quite expensive, my older brother, back in 1962 had many white dress shirts and pale blue shirts, professionally laundered they came finished in gray boxes neatly folded for 50 cents a shirt usually he did 7 shirts, my brother had a friend who worked for Botany 500. And got his sport coats inexpensively. He only bought one suit full price, shark skin suit. Unbelievable awesome thing!
Great video Ash.
I have made some rules for myself regarding my wardrobe:
1) No artificial fibers like polyester, stick to natural fibers like cotton, wool and linen.
2) Set quantity limits for shirts, trousers, suits, sports jackets etc. and stay within these limits.
3) Wait 24 hours before a purchase to figure out whether you really need this piece of clothing. When yes, make sure that two other pieces get removed from your wardrobe.
These rules work well for me.
Not going to lie, I wasted $500 in the last 6 months purchasing clothes that I'll never wear. It's made me smarter.
My father was a stylish man throughout his entire life. He liked high quality clothes and dismissed jeans and khaki pants as too common. When he passed away and my mom was going through his closets (yes multiples) she was shocked and hurt that he had numerous new clothes still in the original packaging that he bought and never wore. Instead of seeing his desire to look good as a sign of intelligence, she started to recognize his clothes purchasing as a secret addiction.
As I approach 60, I am revisiting my personal appearance and selections of clothes. When one is young, one expects clothes to wear out and need replacing. When one is older, one realizes you will probably never get full utility out of the new items you buy. 😢. Therefore, I recommend embracing the notion of a minimalist foundation/capsule wardrobe. If one travels often, it makes packing easier and with less stress.
I truly enjoyed this video because I can relate to the subject. I am trying to stop buying more clothes for one simple reason: I ran out of closet space! I must mention that I NEVER buy my clothes at full retail price. I have ways of finding real bargains. And I buy high quality, mainly Italian made items that last for years. I still wear some pieces that I purchased 10-15 years ago and they still look great and fit me! I must admit that one of my weaknesses is sweaters. I love luxurious soft cashmere or wool sweaters and I stopped counting when I reached 70. I know it’s insane but it’s a fact. I realize that I don’t really need anymore clothes, but each season there’s a temptation when you see a new collection… Thank you for the video.
For me, the way I control my wardrobe size is by having a database of the clothes I need and how many of each I need.
For things like shoes, boots and outerwear, it is easy, as these things will last decades so I buy once, cry once and then enjoy the benefits.
For things that need to be replaced every few years like polo shirts, I try and find a brand that I like and then go back to them as required.
What is too much is too much. I reached a point where I am 99% complete in my wardrobe and am satisfied. The only thing I would do is replace some items with much higher quality ones instead of adding. The one thing I could always add are accessories. By alternating the clothes combination and varying the accessories a small sized wardrobe can be easily tripled in it's size. It's a skill to be learned.
I’m getting closer. I want 2 to 3 suits in every major color, light gray, gray, charcoal, navy, single black suit and single tan. I just need 3 to get my goal completed.
As a pro musician,and motorcycle rider,and, when i can go, a traveller to hot places, i have dinner suits, many bike outfits, then regular clothes too.
My sartorial journey isn’t all that different. Like you, my evolution really reached a precipice when I bought my first luxury mechanical watch. Subsequently, I treated myself to truly comfortable high quality handmade shoes. The last component was discovering that suits need not be uncomfortable by investing in proper cut and fit with better fabrics. After these events, I have been on accelerated trajectory to sartorial nirvana by taking more notice about the quality of the items I put on my person.
Bravo - many will recognise this evolutionary journey.
Hi friend, same thing happened to me when I bought my first Rolex, I changed everything from clothes to how take care of my self and before that I thought everything was fine but that watch changed everything for good, it made me feel special
@@emmanuelrodriguez5044 however a luxury watch isn't always the key. Many very rich people dress like hobos but drive a Ferrari and wear a rolex. Some simply love their miserable look (no names here) Or maybe it is a way for some in trying to be unnoticed.
@@viclucyzia Hi yes totally agree, in my case the watch was the trigger that made me look at my self and do some changes for good
Yeah, this is an excellent point. I looked at my rather modestly sized closet the other day and thought... this is a bit much.
I live in a stone cottage that was built in the 1830s, Ash. At this time, people owned far fewer clothes than they do today, and therefore there were far fewer closets in the home to store clothing. I've reached a point where my suits, sport jackets, blazers, shirts, etc., are quite literally crammed into two small closets...which are all there are in this house.
Whenever I add a new item of clothing to my collection -I regularly haunt thrift stores and second-hand shops- I joke with the staff, saying: "Do you have any closet space for sale?"
At some point, and soon, I'm going to have to either stop buying items or seriously weed garments out of my collection that I seldom or never wear. But I confess that I find it hard to let go of much of anything.
Such a great Rules! Thank You,Ash!
My ex-boyfriend was very careful to his things,he could wear things a decades and they looked just perfect, I have always admired this in his personality and now it such a big pleasure to find your channel here and see that there at least two of this wonderful sustainable people
This is actually some very good advice. For myself, I have a set number of items in every category (including accesories), and I purposefully think like if I can have only 3 suits and 9 jackets, what would those be specifically. How many blazers, tweed jackets, etc. will I need to make them as versatile as they can get. Also, limiting it to natural fibers really helps with comfort and sustainability. I also found that I really like both versatility in choice and the worn-in feeling you get when you have an intensive connection with a certain piece of clothing, so to have them both, I have a very detailed seasonal approach to all my clothing, which means that while I may have two dozen shirts, a dozen pair of pants and a dozen jackets, I will only wear 9 shirts, 5 pairs of pants and 4 jackets in one season, so I get to really enjoy wearing them a lot. I get most seasonal with my ties, for understandable economic reasons. The more items I can afford in a category, the more specific I get with the seasonality; the less I have, the more versatile in season. This attitude really helped me limit my wardrobe and have a really thought through spending strategy.
My Problem: As my wardrobe expands, more clothing becomes compatible with what i've already got 😱Its a slippery slope
A personal suggestion of mine would be to stay away from polyester or polyester blends. At the beginning of my style journey I bought a sport jacket and a suit which where polyester just to realize some time later how horrible they where. I donated both. I think it also important to take the time to educate yourself from different sources and with enough time to digest information.
I can very much relate to that.
I myself am just in that middle-stage of shifting from buying more to buying less of higher quality.
Wow I thought I had enough with 3 suits and 12 shirts! For me a pivotal moment was understanding the capsule wardrobe concept. It’s been a huge step forward when being confronted with tempting bargains and when travelling: managed a 3 week summer holiday with 1 carry on Size case. Everything went with everything else so outfits were always fresh. That and the 1 item in and 1 out philosophy. Thanks for the video as usual.
Congratulations Ash on an exceptionally well-organized presentation! You succeeded in introducing John; extemporaneously describing the relevant parallels in your journeys; and in providing a tactile, physical revelation about the VALUE of quality (the satisfaction of acquiring and caring for good shoes). And most-impressive of all: You concluded by reminded us the SUBJECT of the presentation is JOHN, --the surrogate for many aspiring, fledgling, chaps. A salute to YOU, sir!
Glad you liked it!
Ash what a great video. Fantastic suggestions for John and indeed us all. Rotation is the name of the game here. Whether that's one in one out for suits shirts etc or rotating pieces of less quality out as our resources allow us to buy a better quality. Donating or gifting items rotating out of our wardrobes to chaps to be so they can join us on this journey is a wonderful gift we can pass on.
More good material from The Chaps Guide
Having enough appropriate storage is an important consideration in my clothing collection.
Here in the UK, very few houses and flats have a lot of suitable wardrobe space. If you share your dwelling with a partner and/or children - then the demands on that limited space are greater still. I try to temper my purchase decisions with a consideration of how I'm going to be able to find suitable hanger or drawer space. To that end, I now have a "rule" that for every new garment coming in, at least one has to go out. To the charity shop or recycling centre as appropriate.
"Appropriate storage" is also a consideration. Good quality garments really shouldn't be stored in draughty, damp lofts and garages. One chap I know returned from a 3-year assignment in Afghanistan to find that the half-dozen Saville-Row suits he'd inherited from his father had been attacked by mould and moths in his mother's loft. The sight of a precious silk top hat covered in tiny moth holes was not a happy one.
Great advice about the space needed.
I love this video. It really spoke to me. I’m going to be 60 soon and just now learning the importance of buying quality. I’ve always purchased clothing trying to create a certain style but always the least expensive brand that never holds up. Even at my age im going to keep it in mind to purchase the best I can afford and hold off until I can find what im looking for. Im going to start with a fine pair of tan monkstrap shoes. Thanks Ash for the pep talk. Take care.
I can get a little obsessive with clothing but I have decided to invest in quality as well as in keeping myself in good shape so I can enjoy them.
35 years ago I bought a black camel hair sport coat for 350 dollars at a top expensive mens store, I still have the jacket it still fits great and when I wore it, always got great comments on its classic look.
That store sells suits today 5 thousand dollars..I almost fainted!
Good morning sirs. I will say ,I go with if I am adding to my wardrobe, so the same goes out, a different jacket in a jacket out etc. I have just found a mixed wool/blend country style sports jacket which was a slim fit in size 44 short that fitted rather well. I have worn it a few time now and had positive praise over it. cost £6 from a charity shop, a real bargain(which I must put forward to Ash's bargain challenge), as I wear a pocket square and a pin this does help with the overall look. Again some good points well said.
Quality over quantity for sure. Great video my friend.
Wise words to live by in the sartorial world along with a lot of other subjects in life. BTW, lovely use of the expression 'Damascene moment' ! I shall have to use it in my next English language sparring match with the great 'unwashed' LOL!
Excellent topic. I can relate to this. I think that as collecting clothing items becomes more affordable as we age, or thru salary increases or whatever, it becomes an easier make a clothing item purchase decisions, rather than not spending, save up, and say purchase a more expensive item such as say an expensive motor vehicle, in the longer term. I would argue that rarely do you see a well dressed chap also driving an expensive auto, living in a dream house. Money burns a hole in your pocket. As Ralph Lauren says. “I dont design clothes.. I design dreams “
This may sound contrarian to the ideals of the discussion, but if I find an off the rack shirt or knit that fits well, and receives a multitude of genuine compliments- I buy a backup or two. Being very particular, there are too many times over the years I’ve damaged (or simply worn out ) a favorite item.. and it’s difficult to replace. For me- it makes more since to have two of something I will wear AND enjoy, than four different shirts that will seldom leave the closet. *shrugs shoulders*.
I too, am guilty of shopping addiction. I think if we aren’t really using an item, why not give it to a friend? More happiness in giving, and so forth..
Firstly, I very much admire that tweed jacket you’re wearing. Very nice colours in it. I have recently developed a love for tweed. I recently got a blue Harris Tweed jacket, a Harris Tweed overcoat and a light brown 3 Piece Glen check suit. I am taking the suit to the tailors next week to have the sleeves shortened. Later in the year I am going to get a made to measure tweed suit from a good tailor in the city. The Glen check summer weight suit I got is so good looking, I can’t just “make do” with the sleeves not being short enough to show my shirt cuffs. The made to measure suit will be the most expensive suit I’ve ever bought at (the tailor said) is an average of £1600 so I’m going to have to save for it. Quality clothes really make me feel so much better physically and mentally.
Great video. You hit the mark with many of us.
I so agree! A journey without end.
I’m fortunate to be limited in terms of closet space, which has kept any sort of tendency to “collect” clothes I don’t wear in check. I mostly spend my money upgrading individual pieces, which feels way less sexy than hoarding multiples of the same item. The problem becomes justifying to my wife why *this* Oxford shirt is so much better than the *previous* Oxford shirt, when she can’t see the differences that I can. I don’t know if anyone else out there has ever said this before: “Babe, it’s long-staple cotton, it’s sooo much better! You can absolutely tell the difference, I swear!”
I've been there and tries that - she is wise now and I can't blag it anymore!
It is very important to buy items time after time.
I made the mistake to buy ~30 „core“ items for about thousands euros at once and I do not wear any of this proudly except a leather backpack from The Bridge and a cashmere scarf of Lanificio Colombo.
The rest seems so useless and not fitting in my more elegant wardrobe at all..
It is much better to shoot your shot at sale or maybe second hand to grab some nice items with high quality one by one as my last purchases were e.g. a wonderful Canali sports jacket or several shirts from Barba, Borrelli..
may be a bit weird but i would love for you to do a video on comfortable and high quality breifs or underwear. i feel like being comfortable in your own clothing is as important as being stylish. A video on thigh high socks would be great too.
Great video! Same journey here. Would love to see a Marie Kondo-style episode of Ash working through his wardrobe. ;)
Interesting topic Ash, I have had a good basic wardrobe of good quality since 1989 starting in Larh Germany. For me it is an interesting quality that less and of good quality is more. I usually go for the English style for suits like Daks or Aquscutum and the North American outdoor look for casual. harris tweed is now back in my wardrobe. Very practical. Thank you Ash.
Starlight
Good stuff!
Clothing addiction isn’t a problem for me - I’m retired and not rich - but when I buy clothes one important question I ask myself is “How well will this item fit in with what I already have?” I might lust after that burgundy paisley tie, for example, thinking it would go beautifully with a navy pinstripe suit. But since I have no intention of ever buying such a suit, I’ll pass on the tie, regretfully.
There are only so many “looks” a man really needs for only so many situations, and if a man plans out his wardrobe intelligently he can’t go wrong following the adage of the ancient Greeks - moderation in all things.
A sound approach indeed. Thank you for sharing.
Yes, it was a journey sir. I myself throw so many polyester pants because of low quality and hot to wear, shirts, etc. Quality above quantity.
What I've found regarding good quality shoes, is that you need to find a good quality cobbler to repair them when needed, and they are rare in the uk.
Tie-wise I seem to have reached a plateau with eight formal and ten informal cravats all of the former are various types and kinds of silk with one cotton outlier and almost all the informal ones bis now have been upgraded to cotton from a far larger collection of artificial fibre ones.
Almost two decades back I started my suit collection with essentially crappy suits in late 90s styles I didn't even realize back then they where in.
About 5 years back I started my collection of made to measure suits in wool or linen and recently another summer suit in Cotton (sits next to me here at work, will be opened later today😺) but key here is fit (need to keep a couple of health issues in mind, though nothing visible, but this dictates the cut in ways incompatible with off-the-rack confectionary sizing), sustainability and the cuts I personally prefer (inspired by the very late 19th century up until the late Interbellum) and you can't get off-the-rack anyway.
But I'm working from a rough outline and aim at having certain cuts, patterns and styles in a curated collection not an open-end eternal pattern of buying constantly.
There certainly are additions to the "list" from things encountered during research but it's not eternally incomplete and buying is not an aim in itself.
A bit like my cravat collection... I added a couple of knit ties over the years but this doesn't mean that it's an essentially complete collection of neckwear. (Oh and many a bow-tie which I'm currently in the process of changing to natural fibre items from a ton of articial fibre cheap ones)
I donated to charity or gave away most of the items I need or want no longer for free so they may have a purposeful second career (everything in excellent or really good condition) so I'm essentially left with curating my collection but I still feel the "buying crappy stuff" phase had a purpose in constantly bettering my taste and was not a waste of money.
Best regards and have fun curating your own collections
Raoul G. Kunz
Excellent. Focus on quality over quantity. Love the point that frugality can be part of that approach as well.
I watched your video twice already. I enjoyed it so much.
Happy to hear that!
I own a lot of clothes and other things. Now I want to get rid of some of my clothes and things to declutter my life. My motto is now higher quality fewer things.
Hi ash, may i request for a content about clothing and mental health. Does acquiring essential things (clothing, shoes etc) means more satisfying life?
Is the joy you found in sartorial journey lasting? Does it Improve your relationship with your family and friends?
When some problems arise, (in, family or loneliness) does your possessions give you some relief and comfort? Always been wondering what it is like having almost all the advantages in life.
Thanks! As always
Clothes are material. What makes a gentleman in first place are within. Manners, social skills, compassion, helpfulness, respect towards yourself and others. Things we rarely see these days. We see rather well dress greedy fellows, egoistic, arrogant, boastful, money lovers and without feelings. Once you master the good qualities you feel happy, fulfilled and eager to improve. We have to remember dressing nice should only be the cherry on top. Dressing nice should be worthy of you.
@@viclucyzia love your thoughts!! Thanks for this reminder
Great comments.
With regard to shoes. Yes, I do have a collection, maybe 17 pairs of select shoes, all English made with wooden shoe trees, dust bags, and in their boxes with accompanying shoe horn. What's more, having been brought up within a military association, I take great pleasure polishing them, using good polish, good horse-hair brushes to achieve a great shine.
Why do I have 17 pairs (excluding utility shoes for garden/casual/hiking etc.)?
Let me give you an example. A little while back I went to the opera with my daughter. I chose to wear my gorgeous Alfred Dunn's tuxedo evening suit I hadn't worn for fifteen years or more (still fits perfectly). Only to find I didn't have black dress-shoes!
I made a couple of phone calls for advice and told it would be acceptable to wear my black hi-shine semi-brogues which, while technically incorrect, would do in a crisis.
Many might think this petty, more would not even consider it at all. But to me - it was important. Within a week I had purchased a fine pair of Barker's black dress shoes from eBay, a perfect fit that I could wear with confidence.
To me, this is why an item drawn from a collection to fit the occasion is important to the properly dressed gentleman, and yes, always quality.
Nothing better than always having the right shoe for the right situation!
Have to admit I also have a lot more ties and shirts than I need. You have inspired me to go through these once I retire. Most of what I have has been from thrift stores but I always get high quality. I must say though I would think that King George the third could have done a better job patching his suit jacket 😂. Cheers Ron
The answer for me is when you run out of money, wardrobe space, or both. BTW that sports jacket looks a little too neat - the top button is sitting at angle because it is being pulled and it is pulled open below that button allowing your tie, shirt and trouser waistband to be seen 🤔
We do well to remember this basic truth, Greed does not know how to say enough.
Quite an interesting subject. I've been wondering lately about my tie collection. It's far from big compared to the one you had. Just under thirty so I can use a different tie every day of February for an annual ties initiative a few of us take part in in Iceland. Many of them I bought on a sale (up to 90 percent off) knowing I would probably only use them once or twice a year. So I wonder if it was wise all things considered.
On the other hand being a bit of a jo-jo when it comes to weight I need to own quite a few more clothes than I would prefer, in the hope that when I lose weight older clothes fit again and fear that when I gain weight the same rings true about my bigger items.
I have a set number of things I own now. I wear them out and replace them. I actually get money out of things now
I always point out that if someone works in a place that requires suits, then they will need at least five suits. I always keep stuff around for the kind of job I MIGHT get, though, so still stash extra jeans and canvas shirts and lots of flannels that I don't always use in a year. Even though I'd rather dress for permanent autumn when I'm lucky if I get two weeks of autumn a year, there's still the holidays and Hawaiian shirts to consider in addition to the tweed and leather jacktes. Overall, maybe it's best to simplify things by just dressing like a World War 2 fighter pilot like Indiana Jones most of the time?
Indy is a man who knows how to dress well, tweed when not in action and full bush kit when in the field - I even considered naming my son Indiana (my surname is Jones) but the wife vetoed it!
Buy less, but buy better. Have a go to look that you don’t need to think about and that you could wear anywhere if required. Takes stress out of deciding
When I bought my omega 5 years ago it was a revelation
When you bring home more shirts a week than there are days in a week, then you have a problem. I bought 40 ties for 40$, even though i dont wear that many in a YEAR
A rule I have is that any new item should make a multiplicative rather than merely additive contribution to my wardrobe.
One of our problems is when we use the words; "our collection". How did us humans ever consider our purchases our collection? Why do we collect things? Maybe some kind of human flaw. We justify ourselves by thinking we like something so much that we need to surround ourselves with it. We immerse ourselves and we jump in with both feet and don't know when to stop. Shopping is therapy! By the way Ash, you don't sound cured. You are still buying. Why don't you just stay out of stores? Stay off of eBay.
Never - the next bargain will always be the best!!
great advice ash
I have to ask, sir; have you heard Sam Vimes' Theory Of Boots?
No sir.Not as yet.
@@TheChapsGuide well, perhaps you'll indulge me sharing a quote from Terry Pratchett:
"The reason that the rich were so rich, Vimes reasoned, was because they managed to spend less money.
Take boots, for example. He earned thirty-eight dollars a month plus allowances. A really good pair of leather boots cost fifty dollars. But an affordable pair of boots, which were sort of OK for a season or two and then leaked like hell when the cardboard gave out, cost about ten dollars. Those were the kind of boots Vimes always bought, and wore until the soles were so thin that he could tell where he was in Ankh-Morpork on a foggy night by the feel of the cobbles.
But the thing was that good boots lasted for years and years. A man who could afford fifty dollars had a pair of boots that’d still be keeping his feet dry in ten years’ time, while the poor man who could only afford cheap boots would have spent a hundred dollars on boots in the same time and would still have wet feet."
Try going to an AD and buying a Rolex now! Get ready to join that waiting list!
Buy nice, not twice 💪
nice jacket. which cloth is it?
Tweed.
First!
Congrats!
So my journey has been different. I used to have a couple of cheap suits I wore a couple of times a year. But after covid, I spent a lot of time on youtube watching channels like this. I got very interested in dressing like an adult. I bought a second hand suit that cost more than any other clothing item I ever had. It felt better than casual clothes. I was hooked. Now I have over 20 suits, tons of well made shirts and a number of sports jackets, and more shoes than I ever thought I would need. But they are all high quality items. So I don't know if I am addicted but it's not the low quality vs high quality issue. To be fair I spend a lot of money on clothes (~$6k a year) but other than watches it's about all I spend money on. Now watches I am addicted to I freely admit.
Join the club sir.
Sorry but your sport coat looks a bit tight.😊
I have 40 suits 500 shirts 300 ties 100 shoes 😊
Seek help!!
I imagine in today's economy that is quite expensive, my older brother, back in 1962 had many white dress shirts and pale blue shirts, professionally laundered they came finished in gray boxes neatly folded for 50 cents a shirt usually he did 7 shirts, my brother had a friend who worked for Botany 500. And got his sport coats inexpensively. He only bought one suit full price, shark skin suit. Unbelievable awesome thing!
Mantra is simple one Buy less, buy better, buy Made in UK
Buy cheap buy twice!