HOW TO SPOT AND AVOID CHEAP SHOES AND RECOGNISE GOOD QUALITY SHOES WHEN YOU SEE THEM.
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- Your shoes are one of the first things a new person that you meet will assess to identify what of person you are. Your footwear and it's standard tells a lot about your person values and the way you project your values to the wider world.
Wearing cheap shoes tells potential associates that you are a person who pays little heed to personal impressions and cares not about the way you are perceived by others- put bluntly, they tell people that you are happy being seen as the chap who wears cheap shoes!
But, you need not settle for second best with those uncomfortable and ugly inferior shoes. This video will assist in helping you to spot inexpensive shoes, that will damage the impression you make on others, as well as being a really poor investment in your wardrobe.
Learn more about your host (Ash) here: www.chapsguide....
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I bought a quality pair of brogues 45 years ago. I’ve replaced the soles and heels numerous times down the years, but, with a bit of care, they look as good today as when I bought them. Better, in fact, with the patina that comes with age.
The investment that just keeps giving.
a friends father wise, as he was once said "always spend your money on good shoes and a good bed"
A great bit of advice. If you are not wearing one, you are in the other.
And good beer😄
Excellent video as always. I’ve often been told that one should invest in high quality shoes, but I never had any specifics to to judge by, other than price. This is the absolute first time I’ve been taught what “top grain”, “full grain”, and “genuine” leather means. That was truly an eye-opener. Thank you.
Happy to help!
Having mostly lived in sneakers and Timberland/Dr Martens I discovered "real shoes" only recently. I picked up some Cheaney brogues for £12 in a charity shop as well as some Loake oxfords and Cheaney loafers. I have to say I am a convert. They all cost less than a pack of smokes and were hardly worn. After some initial discomfort while allowing them to break in I can honestly say that I can't see me ever wanting to wear anything else. I will likely get the Cheaney brogues resoled with Dainite once I have chewed through the heel block although the loafers may have already been resoled before so not sure if they have enough life in them to revive again. I would say that high quality English shoes are one of the few luxury products that actually warrant their price tag and I would much rather spend £500 on a pair of gorgeous leather shoes than spend the same on some gaudy sneakers that will be worn out within a few months.
My dress shoes have always been Church's, and have had them resoled many times, and they look as good all through the decades. But I was curious if you have an opinion about half soles versus full soles when re-doing the leather soles?
I'd buy shoes with "Itshide Commando" soles ahead of Dainite soles, and I've had several pairs of Grenson shoes with the Itshide soles fitted from new, including a pair of full grain buffalo hide, Goodyear welted walking shoes. Had them for about 15 years and 3 or 4 full resoles.
BTW never buy second hand shoes unless you are prepared to pay for a full resole and have the mid-sole replaced or they will never be comfortable as they have been broken in to fit someone else's feet.
As always, very well done, and spot on. Perhaps, I missed a mention of this here, but as a component part of the rationale for buying the best you can afford, and I believe your threshold of 200-250 pounds Is spot on, I always insist my clients purchase and use full cedar trees. This insures, along with polishing and rotating, that they maximize their ROI.
Great point! I fully agree and have mostly cedar trees for my kit - in fact, I created at video specifically on this topic earlier in the year.
The number of times I've been out shopping and hit a second hand store and think, Eureka! I found a pair of cordovan shoes. Only to look closer and know, damn plastic coating. Another excellent video Ash.
Keep looking - one day that ship will come in!!
Good call. I have four luxury watches and thats me done. Happy with what I have. Lost interest which peaked during covid as did utube watch channels. Its fallen off now and I see so many Apple watches. Its very niche. Its all far too expensive and moving out of sight for most. Great video 😊
Lol. This was meant for the ID Guy video I watched before yours. Love the shoe one too though.
Great tips! These tips also really nicely go for women's shoes, of which there are many bad quality shoes.
First time I learnt good shoes and bad shoes so thank you .
You’re welcome 😊
Excellent advice. Thank you for producing this video. I now feel confident in my ability to find my first pair of quality, traditionally styled, and timeless shoes.
Top content, as per usual. It may be worth noting that Grenson are getting shoes in their £250 bracket, made up in India. And to be fair, with oversight of leather quality and making, I would suggest they are pretty much as good as Northampton made at half the price. Its also the case that another of the side effects of Covid, and its impact on commerce, seems to be quite a few places online offering shoes at not a lot over what they pay from the manufacturer, so a chance to get quality at nearly half price.
I absolutely agree, the emerging shoes manufacturing locations, such as India and Vietnam, are fast approaching the level of expertise as many of the mid-tier British manufacturing houses. There should be no fear in purchasing from these locations at the prices quoted. As you say, many shoe makers are seeking to increase sales and discounts will be fantastic for the consumer - a great time to make a few, considered purchases.
Excellent information. I have gone my entire life not knowing how to identify a good shoe from a bad one. Recently I bought two pair of Goodyear welted shoes (a black oxford and an oxblood brogue) and so far I am satisfied and can see the difference between them and a cheaper shoe, of which I have had many. However they were not expensive, I got them half price and they were brand new. I can't seem to find the grade of leather but for what I paid I think I will be happy with them. Time will tell.
I now have alerts set up for about 6 shoe brands 😆 on a mission to get great shoes for cheap shoe money.
All very good points there! Reading many of the men’s shoe forums I have noticed among men who have vast shoe collections for a good few years that the Dainite sole is lauded as the most durable even over commando by some distance.
I'm a big fam of Dainite and will usually take that option if offered. In my country, with our damp climate and cold(ish) winters, it is a perfect sole choice.
@@TheChapsGuide my first pair of Danite soles was a Crockett and Jones tan grain split toe Derby blucher. They are over twenty years old, and I only replaced the soles about a year ago. I am delighted to have found you, but it appears your site will become a major impediment to productivity!!!! Thank you.
Dainite is the natural choice for the Northern Hemisphere dwelling gentlemen.
Good overview of things to look for when buying a new pair of shoes.
Many thanks - best regards
I spent 210 us on dark brown suede leather with rubber soles brand JP Pierre bought on sale new it appears to have top stitching around the outlines
Thank you very much. Its a bit of a training of oneself to analyse shoes and clothes and errors are part of it but this has given me a good start to finally purchase some good shoes. However one must say shoes are the most expensive investment as you must give away 500 €/£ at once therefore I am starting to save so by 1 yr time I will be able to realize in buying a pair of Church's, Crockett & Jones, Alan Edmond or the like.
Hi Vic, the choices you have referred to will be excellent options. Your shoes will most likely be the most expensive items in your wardrobe, but if treated well they will look after you the most over your many years together. Look out for great bargains as time goes along and always aim to pay far less than any stated price - there is always negotiation! GOOD LUCK ON YOUR FOOTWEAR JOURNEY.
If money isn’t a barrier, the first two are far superior to AllenEdmonds, particularly, under their new ownership. The company has changed hands several times, and is becoming a far cry from when Mr. Stollenwork was in charge.
@@herbmelton6603 thank you Sir for this piece of advice.
We see very few examples of AE shoes in the UK, I think they would struggle to gain a foothold here with our domestic shoe producers being legion in number and of every level of quality.
Excellent and informative discussion, Ash. Unfortunately for me, obtaining quality shoes is my personal Achilles Heel, if you'll pardon the reference, when it comes to dressing fashionably. With feet that require a size 12 EEE shoe, I've never been able to find the sort of deals at charity shops, thrift stores, etc., that I can easily find for shirts, ties, jackets, and even suits. Even platforms like Ebay offer extremely limited choices in a size 12 EEE, and deals are few and far between. As an additional frustration, I've discovered that a number of high-end European shoe makers don't even make ready-to-wear shoes in this size.
Currently, I am wearing shoes by companies like Florsheim and Stacy Adams that look alright, but are definitely lower quality than these brands used to be in the past. (I do have a couple of pairs of full brogue Oxford "Florsheim Imperials" which were made about 40 years ago that are of very good quality, and in good condition, but the company's current offerings pale in comparison.)
If I had the funds, I would probably invest in a pair or two of bespoke shoes, but as a recently retired secondary school teacher, I just can't seem to justify the expense either to myself or to my wife.
Any thoughts or advice?
Excellent tutorial! 😊
Another great video Ash. I’m a big fan of shoes and learnt a lot about quality here. Have you heard of Thomas Partridge shoes? They are military inspired and are great quality. I love that you
referenced to a James Bond as doing lots of dynamic action!
Hi Andy, I was no aware of Partridge shoes, but I've been on their website and it certainly deserves a closer look. Thanks for the tip. Bond is often a good reference point for me when it comes to looking good - he is the King of Cool after all!
Marvellous video! Very informative.
Must say…I had no idea about about the different types of leather🤯🤯.
Very informative video! Have you got like a top five brands you would most recommend?
Depends on the price point, but for me personally (I have a limited budget and am based in the UK) I go for; Sanders, Loake, Cheaney, Grenson and top end - Crockett & Jones. I usually hunt e-bay for pre-owned bargains and have had some amazing buys over the years.
Very usefull sir. Thank you.
A useful video. Thank you very much.
You are welcome!
Great overview, thank you.
Good video..very i informative..thanks....
Thanks for the excellent video Ash. Just wondered if you have ever tried Samuel Windsor shoes, the price point is quite modest and they have some Goodyear welted pairs too (less than £100!) that I've owned over the years and they have served me well.
I must say that I have never owned a pair of SW shoes to date, although I have been aware of their excellently priced footwear and clothing for many years from their seemingly ever-present advertising in the Sunday newspapers.
Whilst I am sure that they offer a decent shoe for the price, my preference has been to use ebay to source elite-level footwear for bargain prices. However, I have been eyeing-up some of their clothing. I quite fancy one of their double-breasted blazers and possibly a waistcoat for the autumn season. Thanks for the recommendation though - I may give them a try in the future.
Great advice!
Glad it was helpful!
Hi Ash, quite the contrary, I find good quality shoes in £250 to £350 range (e.g. Loake, Barker, Cheaney) cheaper than those £50 shoes from high street brands. The former will easily last a decade with correct cleaning and rotation while the latter will need replacing at least once a year.
Nice tips by the way. Keep em coming. Cheers!
Great review
TY
Leather classification starts from the back of the animal to the abdomen, and not as you described by going from the outside layer deep inside the animal skin.
Thank you for the amendment - everyday is a school day.
I think you're getting confused between the quality of a full grain leather and the difference between that and corrected leather.
Generally ( but not always ) the higher part of the full grain will be better quality but the quality will decrease as you go down towards the belly leather. What this chap is talking about is the difference in quality between the full grain ( top part of the skin ) and the leather underneath, which is corrected, meaning that all the blemishes, stretch marks, scars and bites are removed by sanding the hide down. If you get a quality pair of full grain leather shoes and hold them to the light you should be able to see where the hairs were and it will be naturally quite dull until polished properly. Corrected leather on the other hand will just be smooth and usually more shiny, as it's often treated with a coating to make it look more appealing.
What's your opinion on Solovair shoes and boots? They're less expensive than most of the more well known British brands, but is their quality to price ratio worthwhile?
I have not yet had the pleasure of owning a pair of these very well regarded boots, but I have heard many positive things over the years. Perhaps worth a careful investment.
@@TheChapsGuide thanks very much for your reply. If you do invest in a pair, as I'm about to do, would you please consider doing a review on your channel? I'm looking at a pair of English syle Brogues in Burgundy Rub off. They look sensational, but I can't decide between the shoes or boots. I'm passing high recommendations to your channel. Excellent work.
How about Thursday shoes?
I’ve never owned a pair. But I hear generally positive things.
Great video. What is your opinion on Shoes made of sheep leather? They are much more comfortable than the ordinary cow leather shoe, but I wonder if its as durable.
Most sheep leather is used in garments (jackets, etc.) opposed to footwear, where cowhide leather is favoured due to its durability, but in the right situation I imagine it could be a good alternative (slippers, etc.)
Plastic and glue sole are the worst of all! Usually also fake leather..
Apologies for only just discovering this particular upload of yours. When limited in time and resulting budget, for an upcoming week-long bucket list event, which would you sacrifice the quality on - shoes or ties and pocket squares? Whilst I would love to manage quality in both, something has to give for the short-term, as time/funds won't allow anything other. And for reasons I'd rather not go into, I'd rather not opt for the eBay route
Do not go cheap on the shoes, they are the foundation of any outfit. A cheap silk tie can easily be overlooked, but cheap shoes will kill your look.
@TheChapsGuide Thank you. It's a new world to me. I'll get there. Boarding the QM2 in 12 days time and it's come around a little too soon. Returning to the Welsh Valleys to take on caring duties caused the cloth to be cut accordingly. Having got a couple of pairs of Loake, I'm looking at my cheaper shoes in horror, and am now panicking 🫣🫡
I usually buy Clarks shoes and they have lasted me for over ten years. What is your opinion of Clarks as a shoe maker?
Clark's were a heritage brand, but now are entirely made in the far east and have become no longer of suitable quality to be viable. Their Original Desert Boots are still buyable, but only just!
After watching your video I looked at a pair of my boots and discovered that they have what the manufacturer calls a “3/4 Goodyear welt.” The welt stops just in front of the heel. Can a shoe cobbler still resole a boot with a 3/4 Goodyear welt or is it simply a gimmick on the part of the manufacturer to trick the consumer into thinking that they have truly Goodyear welted shoes?
Ease of manufacture (cheap) is the honest answer, but they can still be resoled.
I was on side until this chap suggested wearing burgundy shoes with a blue suit 😬
Might be a stupid question, but where do you stand (no pun intended) on using segs (steel or rubber) especially for people that are walking on their heels quite heavily and wearing them down rather quickly...?
Was an issue I had as a child (school shoes), not so much as an adult...
Great to hear from you - I have previously applied steel heel plates to my shoes where I experienced excessive wear, almost exclusively on solid leather stacked heels, however, I became deeply annoyed at the 'clip-clopping' noise that resulted and eventually had the plates replaced with a rubber/composite variant, that provided better traction, greater longevity and no noise. I subsequently have applied rubber heel plates a few times to shoes and have been very pleased with the results - makes the shoes last much, much longer. Best regards, Ash
Is Crockett and Jones worth 2x the price of a Loake ?
It's debatable, but I would say that C & J are of very high quality and are definitely more occupy a much higher status within the show world - short answer - YES
@@TheChapsGuide Can people really tell a loake pair apart from a C&J on your feet 😂? If so what are the differences to the eye. Quite curious…
Hello from Sweden! Great stuff.. but what is a "Chap"? It is not something woke, I trust??
.
A chap is a term often used to describe a well-mannered, courteous man with a classic sense of style and charm. The word, originally British, typically evokes images of someone who embodies old-school values, sophistication, and a certain refined approach to life.
A chap:
Values etiquette: He carries himself with politeness and respect toward others, adhering to social decorum.
Appreciates style: Often dressed sharply, with an emphasis on timeless, classic menswear like tailored suits, polished shoes, and thoughtful accessories (think pocket squares, hats, or cufflinks).
Exudes charm and wit: A chap knows how to hold a conversation, combining humor with intelligence.
Takes pride in hobbies or interests: Whether it’s vintage cars, traditional sports, or classic literature, a chap has a refined taste and a respect for craftsmanship.
In essence, a chap embodies a blend of traditional gentlemanly values, understated confidence, and an appreciation for the finer things in life.
@@TheChapsGuide ❤❤❤ Wow, what a fantastic answer. Thanks! So a chap certainly is for us all to aspire to and absolutely nothing woke whatsoever. On the contrary, I would say.
Is dainite sole ok with a genuine leather sole?
Dainite is good for winter and leather is better for dry walking environments
Square toed shoes are the Devils dress shoe (it looks dreadful! 🤢)
PU leather shoes too🤢
How many of your viewers would genuinely feel comfortable paying over £200????? I could NEVER justify such an expense, no matter how long they would last
This may shock you, but even £200 will barely net you a good pair of new shoes these days.
Just buy a pair of 574 and stop suffering with crap.
Nirvana