I'm a norwegian blacksmith student. Worked a lot with woodworking and your videos has inspired my to start working with leather. I have to say, Your videos are truly amazing.
You're one of the best teachers. I go to Tandy Leather over by where I live and anytime I ask a question or advise it feels like I just asked them if I could borrow money or live with them.😂
Just what I needed, I've been struggling with my copper/brass saddlers rivets. Thanks to another great Chuck tutorial, I now know I have been leaving my posts way too long. Thanks Chuck.👍
Got some uneven work to do with all manner of post lengths required, so copper rivet offering the option to trim the post is perfect. Thanks a lot for the video!
IDEA: Hi Chuck, how about doing a video on making strops? Type of leather, thickness, appropriate finish (burnished or not, treated or not), forming or shaping (eg, for woodcarver gouge’s inside profiles, how tight can leather be folded over), backing such as plywood for rigidity in plane sharpening, etc. A little strop is a simple piece of leather, but with some knowledge of leather characteristics, it can do so much.
I know this is probably elemental, but having never worked with leather before this was an excellent, brief tutorial that was just what I needed. I have always had a love of most anything leather since I was a kid. I can remember a girlfriend of my brother who made me my first "cool" leather handbag. It was brown with a simple fold-over flap with a real heavy-duty brass snap closure. She embossed a pretty flower on one side and a peace sign on the other. It smelled so good. Just a natural leather smell. with no added dyes or inks added to the design. I have been spoon carving for a few years now and instead of buying a chest protector, I decided to make my own. I even made a stitching pony out of walnut I had leftover from a woodworking project. Thank you for this!! Now to learn about snaps.
I wish you would have spent more time on the TUBULAR RIVETS with CAPS, since you sell them there. There's lots of videos of double cap, rapid,tubular and copper rivets but I have NEVER seen nor can I find a video about tubular rivets with caps and the benefits over double cap rivets
Hello, The biggest thing with tubular rivets when using the cap instead of splashing out the post is that you need a rivet setter such as the Rex Riveter or Little Wonder to set them, they can't be set by hand. The nice thing with using the Little Wonder Riveter is you don't have to punch the rivet hole first, you just mark your spot, and the rivet creates the hole and sets all in one move. Tubular rivets are also stronger than double cap rivets and feature a flat head on the post side. Hope this helps a little bit!
Would be nice to see exactly how to set the tubular rivet with the second cap. I bought a package of #104 tubular rivets and the caps but not sure how to set them. At least, I'm assuming you can't cut excess tube off and then still apply the second cap, correct?
Finally something that tells what size rivet to use and how to set it. One thing to add is the thickness of what ever you are attaching to the leather like a turn- lock clasp. Thank you!
I really need help on a project with rivets - I’m folding the leather over a metal structure and connecting the two pieces to make a sling - will it be difficult as I can’t hit on a surface easily - maybe a block of wood? I have 24 rivets to attach 1 I hope you see this
Great video, Chuck. I was wondering if you could spend a little time on crystal and synthetic rivets? I'm about to receive some to practice with soon and was curious how best to set them. Thanks for your time.
Hi Brian, Just thought of this, we do have a belt video where we use the synthetic turquoise rivets, which would be set the same as the crystal rivets. You can check it out here: ua-cam.com/video/ZH2ExlGbmMc/v-deo.html
Thanks for clearing up a lot of confusion about rivets. I’ve had trouble using the double caps and I just think I been using too short of a post. Any possibility of doing a tutorial on what application would be best used for each rivet? Thanks 👍
Thank you!! I just made my first watch, and couldn't figure out why my rivets kept going crooked. Adding another little square of leather between the layers made it just thick enough to work!
the examples with leather thickness is much appreciated. by far the best leather instructional channel i've seen on youtube. thanks to chuck and whoever the production team consists of!
Good information, but I would also like to see you setting snaps on thin leather. I find that I need to take the male side and grind it down in order for it to work. This is a real pain. Is there a better way? At my current leather supplier, the male post are too long for my work. What is the shortest male post on say a line 20 snap? Thanks in advance.
Why are you grinding down the posts? It gets smashed down when you set it anyway? I have some solid brass line 20s where the bottom of the male snap doesn't go all the way to the bottom and the 1/4 post doesn't reach on 8 oz or 1/8" leather, they are obviously a defect, but I have 100 of them. Where do you live?
@@MountainFisher most of the time if I try to set a snap without grinding the male portion down, too much of the male end sticks out. When I try to set it so it's firm in place, I end up setting it up lopsided. This sucks and is really hard to ondo without damaging my project. I live on the Texas Gulf Coast.
@@abelvillarreal7958 Oh, I live in Las Cruces, New Mexico near El Paso. I just put the 2 parts of the snap together and can see what you mean, you must be using super thin leather. I was going to send you a dozen snaps, but the defect wouldn't help you as the post would just stick out the same. I know there are some small snaps that are made for thin 2 oz leather, but their name escapes me, but they're not called line snaps at all. Try calling your nearest Tandy store or Weaver as they have all been very helpful to me. By the way Tandy doesn't sell any solid brass line 20-24 snaps they're all plated steel. Weaver sells solid brass snaps, but only in 100 packs. The Buckle Guy carries snaps with a hidden cap that has an 1/8" post and is solid brass, but only in 100 paks. By the way if a snap doesn't say solid brass its plated steel. Call them if you have questions, hope this helps Abel. www.buckleguy.com/snhb11-snap-button-hidden-cap-s-spring-socket-natural-brass-solid-brass-ll-100-sets-per-bag/
@@MountainFisher are you thinking about Segma snaps?? I bought those to try them out on thin leather as I read they were a great alternative to line 20 snaps... They are even more of a pain in the ass though..
Hi there, once again here I am simply enjoying your great tutorials & I learn soooo much too, but I am still a newbie working with all types of leather, i'm loving this as a hobby, years ago I used a scrollsaw & did lots of fun woodworking creations, but now i'm into leather, but recently I bought some faux leather for a starter & i'm wondering as it's thinner, how can I incorporate the rivets & what sizes should I be using, I did try a smaller one, not sure of the mm's, but the faux leather is so thin, that the rivot just wobbled around, so it didn't work at all, any advice would be appreciated,thanks.
Hi Melody, If the rivet is more than 1/16" or 1.587 mm longer than the material it's going to either wobble or go in crooked. If you can't find rivets shorter than that, you could try grinding them down to the length you need. Or you could use a solid copper rivet, these are set with the burr and then trimmed to length. We'll link them below so you can take a look at them. Hope this helps! www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/01335-co-1-2/1335-12-solid-copper-flat/pr_50703
Hi Dylan, Check out this blog post and video by Jim Linnell, he goes over the basic swivel knife tips for beginners: blog.weaverleathersupply.com/swivel-knife-tips/ Hope that helps!
Hi, I am very new to leather working. I made a belt and it came out okay. But when I went to make the leather loop for the belt to slide through just next to the buckle I shaved down the leather that goes between the folded back and screwed together part of the belt that holds the buckle. Sorry if I am not familiar with the terminology. When I shaved down the ends of the leather loop it was only about an 1/8" thick combined.. Do I need to use a particular type or size rivet on that part since it will not be seen where it floats between the screws holding the buckle?
Hi Gary! We actually just posted a video on making leather keepers/loops. We used a double cap rivet on ours. Like you said the rivet won't actually be seen so you can usee a different type of rivet, whatever you have on hand that is the correct size. Below is the link to the video: ua-cam.com/video/onPs-QEChPk/v-deo.html
Well done. On the copper rivets I like to leave a tiny bit more standing proud of the burr; use the setter to start a round over, and use a ball pein hammer to dome the end. With the larger diameter rivets (saddle bags and heavy straps) it gives a nice dimpled dome effect. It took some practice to get it to look good.
Can I ask what you are using to lay your product on while you tap it? It sounds like stone, brick, granite? I think my problem setting rivets is the surface I'm using is too spongy (hubby told me this after several misfires using a couple magazines).
Hi Michele, This is a marble slab, it will give you a nice solid surface to set fasteners and tool leather on. We'll link them here: www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/65800-24-12/marble-tooling-slab/pr_62664
Listen. When I rivet , it tend to slip a lot Unless it is pounded absolutely strait down. But what if , rivet punch had rubber compound on the ends for rivets To pop in to hold it in place before the punch? And with that how about punch guide So when hammer strikes down, the punch with rubber compound which holds the rivet in the place, so when hammer strikes down, the punch is on Track which will rivet absolutely perfect? I thought I give you this idea for you to develop and test it . good luck.
Two question: first, you don't mention pop rivets-- why not? Second, you don't cover the kind of very small rivets that we see on Hermes handbags-- are these too difficult to set?
Thannks for the informative videos. I am a knifemaker and was interested in leather craft for sheaths, but since watching your videos and seeing your enthusiasm I want to take it further and add leather craft to my skills. I have a question about dying. First part you said dye before assembly, should I glue my belt loop in place before dye or will glue stick to it after?
Hi David, I’m so glad the videos are giving you that level of desire to do more! Very cool! If you’re using a Contact Cement then it should be fine before or after the dye. The white glue maybe not so much. I may experiment with both types of glue and the order of steps to see what works best for your particular project. I hope you have a great time with it!
I'm not expecting a reply, but I was wondering how you set rivets that are odd shapes? I've looked online and a few times have found rivets in the shape of skulls or something else and always wondered how that'd work.
Hi Andy! The folks that sell the rivets usually carry a tool that matches the shape of the cap. If not then what you can do is use a piece of pretty thick veg (8/9 oz. +/-) and set the rivet with the cap on the veg and the setter coming in from the top/back. This should protect the face enough and still give you a good set. A second way to go (I do this with Crystal Rivets) is to wet some thicker veg and press the cap down into it forming, basically, an anvil. Let the veg dry and use that as your anvil. See if this helps?
Hi chuck! I’m working on some leather armor that I need to harden. I already stamped it and everything, but should I dye it before or after I harden the piece, and what’s the best way to harden it and get it to be shaped to fit my body?
Titan Armory, I like to bake my armor and I want to do that after I’ve done everything except dye, top coat and assemble. The baking is more of a curing than baking. Soak the panel for about one minute and then set it aside for an hour+/- until it’s no longer flimsy (you’ll feel it) and the water has had a chance to wick in deeply. As best you can form it to the part of the body where it will rest and let this dry another hour+/- (you don’t have to keep it on you for an hour just keep it propped up or laying on something so it retains the shape). Now the leather is starting to dry a bit so it will somewhat hold a form, but, you may need to prop it up to help it remain in that form. It’s still fully wet at this point but can now, mostly, hold the shape. For an 8/9 oz. and up I would go with about 210 degrees for about 20 minutes. It will still be wet coming out of the oven and if the form isn’t perfect you still have a chance to reform just a little. Prop it up if need be, again to retain the form, and let it dry another 24 hours. From there you can dye and top coat.
Very helpful tutorial, concise, and right to the meat and potatoes of the business. Thank you 👍👍👍! Was watching 2 Latino tutorials on the subject, and nothing against Latinos, I'm one myself, but both were over 16 minutes long, and I said to myself, come on guys, I don't have time for tea time right now. So efficient and compact productions like these spare my nerves and time. Merci beaucoup once again.
I got the solid brass #9 Flat head Rivets from weaver and when they arrived, I was clueless how to use them! Thank you for this video! Now using them will be really easy!
This was such an excellent video! I was thinking of switching from double cap to tubular because finding the proper post lengths in the double cap was difficult and I thought perhaps because tubular rolls back down then I would have more leeway.........................and you almost convinced me to stay lol. But having only 3 post lengths available is a real bummer. Going from 8 mm (Medium) all the way up to 11 mm (Large) leaves me at the same place I was with a 8 mm rivet that is barely peeking out the other end and an 11 mm that will be wayyyyyyyy tooooooo long :( #the search continues for something slightly longer than 8mm but not as tall as 11 mm. I will definitely keep your site saved as you have excellent prices tho!
Well I ordered all three sized of double sided rivets and some small eyelets but I don’t have metric hole punches. The hole is either too large or too small. What size hole punch do you use? Do you sell them?
Hi Judy, Chuck usually uses a 7/64" punch or the #2 hole on the revolving punch linked below for the double cap rivets. The post diameter is the same on all three sizes, so you can use that size for all of them. Hope that helps. www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/65-6230/heritage-compound-action/pr_9087
Another great video. It’s off topic, but could you cover darkening stamps without darkening the leather around it? I’m trying to keep a pale vegitan look with sharply contrasting stamps. Branding the inside of the stamp with a saudering iron maybe?
coldwind do you know about resists? Also I paint very carefully with dye, keep away from the edge of the stamped area to start and watch how far the dye leeches over, it isn't very much at all, but I have paint/dye some designs in dark brown and then put resist on them then dyed the rest of the area with a lighter dye, they turn out great. btw if you want the light brown to actually be "light" brown thin it out with 92% rubbing alcohol from Walmart, then experiment.
I had thought about using a resist, but worried it could get into the stamp and cause a problem. I also considered painting with a small brush and dye, but was worried about bleeding over the edge. I don’t mind doing that, but was wondering if there were an easier way. Thanks for the advice though, I will practice on some scrap and see what I can manage.
Hello! Double Cap Rivets or 104 Tubular Rivets would both be great rivet options for sheaths and holsters! Here are links to those two rivet options... www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/02200/2200-double-cap-rivets/pr_55590/cp_/shop-by-project/sheaths/wet-formed-box-knife-sheath and www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/00104-bk-7-16/104-tubular-rivets/pr_58147
Chuck, I find myself more times than not wishing I had a wide head rivet with a short, non-conventional length post. I like the wide head for aesthetics but work with thinner leather. I really do not like the look of the 'small' rivet. I have tried everything I can think of to shorten the post of a medium or large rivet to fit the thickness of my leather. I have tried cutters. I have tried to file the post down. I have tried using my rotary tool. What happens is that the OEM post is tapered and rounded. When I cut it, that is removed and it is nearly impossible to get the cap on the shaved down post. Can you think of a good way to shorten a long post? There do not seem to be large head, short post rivets on the market.
Hi Bruce, About the only rivet we can think of that would have a wide head and short post is the solid copper rivets and burrs. The head is wide and you can buy short posts or clip them to the length you need when installing them.
@@WeaverLeatherSupply Thanks (Chuck). I have a supply of copper rivets. They would work but sometimes, the look of double cap rivets looks better. I found a piece of thin wood the height of the post I want. I drilled a hole in the wood, stuck the long rivet post into the wood and just filed the rivet until it was flush with the wood. I will let you guys know if it works.
HI Jeff, With copper rivets, the lower the number, the bigger the diameter of the rivet. #8 will be your largest rivet and #14 the smallest. Which one you use depends on the project you are using it on, #9 is the most common size but they are fairly large so something like a belt or an item that gets a lot of use and strain these would be a good size. #12 is a good mid-size for attaching bag handles, etc. All of the solid copper rivets on our site will have head and post diameter details to help you determine what size you think will look best on your project. Hope that helps
I'm a norwegian blacksmith student. Worked a lot with woodworking and your videos has inspired my to start working with leather. I have to say, Your videos are truly amazing.
Thank you so much! Glad you're enjoying leatherwork!
You're one of the best teachers. I go to Tandy Leather over by where I live and anytime I ask a question or advise it feels like I just asked them if I could borrow money or live with them.😂
Thank you Chuck... You've done it again. 👍
Chuck, I believe that's the best tutorial on rivets I've watched yet, and I've watched a bunch of them on UA-cam. Thank you for clear instructions.
Thanks so much, I appreciate that!
Just what I needed, I've been struggling with my copper/brass saddlers rivets. Thanks to another great Chuck tutorial, I now know I have been leaving my posts way too long. Thanks Chuck.👍
You are welcome, glad we could help.
Chuck is the best! A true entertainer!
That was one great presentation ! No longer confused about rivets and ready for my first project .
Just the video I needed as I need to set some rivets in a project I am working on. Thank you. (From Australia) 22/10/23
Great tutorial, thanks man
Perfect!! I'm making a knife sheath for a gal pal of mine.. this video is the one I needed! Thank you.
Great tutorial! Could you do a leather element on how to cut softer leather? Keep up the great work.
Try a large pizza cutter.?
Confidence is the first step to competence 😉 Thanks for the confidence to try now.
Got some uneven work to do with all manner of post lengths required, so copper rivet offering the option to trim the post is perfect. Thanks a lot for the video!
IDEA: Hi Chuck, how about doing a video on making strops? Type of leather, thickness, appropriate finish (burnished or not, treated or not), forming or shaping (eg, for woodcarver gouge’s inside profiles, how tight can leather be folded over), backing such as plywood for rigidity in plane sharpening, etc. A little strop is a simple piece of leather, but with some knowledge of leather characteristics, it can do so much.
Hello,
Good suggestion! We’ll get “Making a Leather Strop” in the works!
Thanks Chuck
Thank you for clear and great information!
Great video - thanks for the clear information!!
I know this is probably elemental, but having never worked with leather before this was an excellent, brief tutorial that was just what I needed. I have always had a love of most anything leather since I was a kid. I can remember a girlfriend of my brother who made me my first "cool" leather handbag. It was brown with a simple fold-over flap with a real heavy-duty brass snap closure. She embossed a pretty flower on one side and a peace sign on the other. It smelled so good. Just a natural leather smell. with no added dyes or inks added to the design. I have been spoon carving for a few years now and instead of buying a chest protector, I decided to make my own. I even made a stitching pony out of walnut I had leftover from a woodworking project. Thank you for this!! Now to learn about snaps.
Very useful vid, thank you!
Amazing info.. Chuck. Keep rocking
Very helpful. Thank you Sir.
Thank you, George - so glad it was helpful!
always great!
I wish you would have spent more time on the TUBULAR RIVETS with CAPS, since you sell them there. There's lots of videos of double cap, rapid,tubular and copper rivets but I have NEVER seen nor can I find a video about tubular rivets with caps and the benefits over double cap rivets
Hello,
The biggest thing with tubular rivets when using the cap instead of splashing out the post is that you need a rivet setter such as the Rex Riveter or Little Wonder to set them, they can't be set by hand. The nice thing with using the Little Wonder Riveter is you don't have to punch the rivet hole first, you just mark your spot, and the rivet creates the hole and sets all in one move. Tubular rivets are also stronger than double cap rivets and feature a flat head on the post side. Hope this helps a little bit!
Thank you for explaining that.
Great Thanks, Nicely done
Nice info
well explained..thankyou
Glad it was helpful! :) You're welcome.
Would be nice to see exactly how to set the tubular rivet with the second cap. I bought a package of #104 tubular rivets and the caps but not sure how to set them. At least, I'm assuming you can't cut excess tube off and then still apply the second cap, correct?
Nice video thanks alot👏👏
Finally something that tells what size rivet to use and how to set it. One thing to add is the thickness of what ever you are attaching to the leather like a turn- lock clasp. Thank you!
I really need help on a project with rivets - I’m folding the leather over a metal structure and connecting the two pieces to make a sling - will it be difficult as I can’t hit on a surface easily - maybe a block of wood? I have 24 rivets to attach 1 I hope you see this
Great breakdown! If I wanted the two pieces to be able to rotate relative to each other, what fastener should I use?
Great video, Chuck. I was wondering if you could spend a little time on crystal and synthetic rivets? I'm about to receive some to practice with soon and was curious how best to set them. Thanks for your time.
Hi Brian,
Thanks for the suggestion, we'll see about adding this to the list!
Hi Brian,
Just thought of this, we do have a belt video where we use the synthetic turquoise rivets, which would be set the same as the crystal rivets. You can check it out here: ua-cam.com/video/ZH2ExlGbmMc/v-deo.html
This was a fantastic primer video. Thank you for making this!
Thanks for clearing up a lot of confusion about rivets. I’ve had trouble using the double caps and I just think I been using too short of a post.
Any possibility of doing a tutorial on what application would be best used for each rivet? Thanks 👍
I have watched many videos about setting rivets on leather and yours is the ONLY one that is clear, concise and simple. Many thanks!!
Thank you!! I just made my first watch, and couldn't figure out why my rivets kept going crooked. Adding another little square of leather between the layers made it just thick enough to work!
Thanks.That was great!
Theres a rivet post that has a hole in the center and three sharp points on the end.what kind of rivet is this a d how do I set it.HELP
Thanks. Would love to see more armor making videos or even a piece by piece look at the suit in the corner there.
Is that some kind of stone that you use for the setting?
Amazing video! So helpful and I was able to troubleshoot exactly what I was doing wrong!
the examples with leather thickness is much appreciated. by far the best leather instructional channel i've seen on youtube. thanks to chuck and whoever the production team consists of!
Thank you so much, Thomas!
Good information, but I would also like to see you setting snaps on thin leather. I find that I need to take the male side and grind it down in order for it to work. This is a real pain. Is there a better way? At my current leather supplier, the male post are too long for my work. What is the shortest male post on say a line 20 snap? Thanks in advance.
Why are you grinding down the posts? It gets smashed down when you set it anyway? I have some solid brass line 20s where the bottom of the male snap doesn't go all the way to the bottom and the 1/4 post doesn't reach on 8 oz or 1/8" leather, they are obviously a defect, but I have 100 of them. Where do you live?
@@MountainFisher most of the time if I try to set a snap without grinding the male portion down, too much of the male end sticks out. When I try to set it so it's firm in place, I end up setting it up lopsided. This sucks and is really hard to ondo without damaging my project. I live on the Texas Gulf Coast.
@@abelvillarreal7958 Oh, I live in Las Cruces, New Mexico near El Paso. I just put the 2 parts of the snap together and can see what you mean, you must be using super thin leather. I was going to send you a dozen snaps, but the defect wouldn't help you as the post would just stick out the same. I know there are some small snaps that are made for thin 2 oz leather, but their name escapes me, but they're not called line snaps at all. Try calling your nearest Tandy store or Weaver as they have all been very helpful to me. By the way Tandy doesn't sell any solid brass line 20-24 snaps they're all plated steel. Weaver sells solid brass snaps, but only in 100 packs.
The Buckle Guy carries snaps with a hidden cap that has an 1/8" post and is solid brass, but only in 100 paks. By the way if a snap doesn't say solid brass its plated steel. Call them if you have questions, hope this helps Abel.
www.buckleguy.com/snhb11-snap-button-hidden-cap-s-spring-socket-natural-brass-solid-brass-ll-100-sets-per-bag/
@@MountainFisher are you thinking about Segma snaps?? I bought those to try them out on thin leather as I read they were a great alternative to line 20 snaps... They are even more of a pain in the ass though..
@@eugenethomas4647 no, see my answer to Abel Villarreal.
Hi there, once again here I am simply enjoying your great tutorials & I learn soooo much too, but I am still a newbie working with all types of leather, i'm loving this as a hobby, years ago I used a scrollsaw & did lots of fun woodworking creations, but now i'm into leather, but recently I bought some faux leather for a starter & i'm wondering as it's thinner, how can I incorporate the rivets & what sizes should I be using, I did try a smaller one, not sure of the mm's, but the faux leather is so thin, that the rivot just wobbled around, so it didn't work at all, any advice would be appreciated,thanks.
Hi Melody,
If the rivet is more than 1/16" or 1.587 mm longer than the material it's going to either wobble or go in crooked. If you can't find rivets shorter than that, you could try grinding them down to the length you need. Or you could use a solid copper rivet, these are set with the burr and then trimmed to length. We'll link them below so you can take a look at them. Hope this helps!
www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/01335-co-1-2/1335-12-solid-copper-flat/pr_50703
@@WeaverLeatherSupply Hello, thanks for the speedy helpful reply, it was very much appreciated.;-)>>>
i’m semi new to leathercraft and i mainly have a hard time with the swivel knife any tips on how to get better? or a video idea
Hi Dylan,
Check out this blog post and video by Jim Linnell, he goes over the basic swivel knife tips for beginners:
blog.weaverleathersupply.com/swivel-knife-tips/
Hope that helps!
Informative, intelligent, you are a born teacher. I am now inspired. What's more, I think I can do it.
Excellent job of teaching
These videos are awesome but u definitely need lots of close ups on many occasions cause the results you can't see them well at all
Thank you for your suggestion, we appreciate it. Thank you for watching.
Hi, I am very new to leather working. I made a belt and it came out okay. But when I went to make the leather loop for the belt to slide through just next to the buckle I shaved down the leather that goes between the folded back and screwed together part of the belt that holds the buckle. Sorry if I am not familiar with the terminology. When I shaved down the ends of the leather loop it was only about an 1/8" thick combined.. Do I need to use a particular type or size rivet on that part since it will not be seen where it floats between the screws holding the buckle?
Hi Gary!
We actually just posted a video on making leather keepers/loops. We used a double cap rivet on ours. Like you said the rivet won't actually be seen so you can usee a different type of rivet, whatever you have on hand that is the correct size. Below is the link to the video:
ua-cam.com/video/onPs-QEChPk/v-deo.html
Well done. On the copper rivets I like to leave a tiny bit more standing proud of the burr; use the setter to start a round over, and use a ball pein hammer to dome the end. With the larger diameter rivets (saddle bags and heavy straps) it gives a nice dimpled dome effect. It took some practice to get it to look good.
I like that look too! But, you're right, it takes some practice! Thanks for watching!
Hello ... what is the model no of Rivet setter toll ?
Can I ask what you are using to lay your product on while you tap it? It sounds like stone, brick, granite? I think my problem setting rivets is the surface I'm using is too spongy (hubby told me this after several misfires using a couple magazines).
Hi Michele,
This is a marble slab, it will give you a nice solid surface to set fasteners and tool leather on. We'll link them here: www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/65800-24-12/marble-tooling-slab/pr_62664
Thanks you !
I have a project that requires rivets and had no idea where to begin. Thank you for this well informed video on the various types of rivets to use.
Listen. When I rivet , it tend to slip a lot
Unless it is pounded absolutely strait down. But what if , rivet punch had rubber compound on the ends for rivets
To pop in to hold it in place before the punch?
And with that how about punch guide
So when hammer strikes down, the punch with rubber compound which holds the rivet in the place, so when hammer strikes down, the punch is on
Track which will rivet absolutely perfect?
I thought I give you this idea for you to develop and test it . good luck.
Sir, the picture was too small? Can you magnify the picture? Thanks.
I bought the wrong size.
The length is too long.
Is it ok to cut it shorter?
I can't take the rivets back and can't afford to buy new ones.
I bought a rivet setter for copper and brass, but I found it will mark the leather up. So I made me a set. It doesn't make my leather any more
Two question: first, you don't mention pop rivets-- why not? Second, you don't cover the kind of very small rivets that we see on Hermes handbags-- are these too difficult to set?
Thank you. I had no idea what to do. Well somewhat of an idea but had to make sure.
I've been trying to find a clear, simple explanation of how to set different rivets by hand. I wasted a lot of time in not coming to Chuck first!!!
Same 😉
Thannks for the informative videos. I am a knifemaker and was interested in leather craft for sheaths, but since watching your videos and seeing your enthusiasm I want to take it further and add leather craft to my skills. I have a question about dying. First part you said dye before assembly, should I glue my belt loop in place before dye or will glue stick to it after?
Hi David,
I’m so glad the videos are giving you that level of desire to do more! Very cool! If you’re using a Contact Cement then it should be fine before or after the dye. The white glue maybe not so much. I may experiment with both types of glue and the order of steps to see what works best for your particular project. I hope you have a great time with it!
I'm not expecting a reply, but I was wondering how you set rivets that are odd shapes? I've looked online and a few times have found rivets in the shape of skulls or something else and always wondered how that'd work.
Hi Andy! The folks that sell the rivets usually carry a tool that matches the shape of the cap. If not then what you can do is use a piece of pretty thick veg (8/9 oz. +/-) and set the rivet with the cap on the veg and the setter coming in from the top/back. This should protect the face enough and still give you a good set. A second way to go (I do this with Crystal Rivets) is to wet some thicker veg and press the cap down into it forming, basically, an anvil. Let the veg dry and use that as your anvil. See if this helps?
Can I cut copper rod and double washer to make these rather than buying posts
Hi chuck! I’m working on some leather armor that I need to harden. I already stamped it and everything, but should I dye it before or after I harden the piece, and what’s the best way to harden it and get it to be shaped to fit my body?
Titan Armory,
I like to bake my armor and I want to do that after I’ve done everything except dye, top coat and assemble. The baking is more of a curing than baking. Soak the panel for about one minute and then set it aside for an hour+/- until it’s no longer flimsy (you’ll feel it) and the water has had a chance to wick in deeply. As best you can form it to the part of the body where it will rest and let this dry another hour+/- (you don’t have to keep it on you for an hour just keep it propped up or laying on something so it retains the shape). Now the leather is starting to dry a bit so it will somewhat hold a form, but, you may need to prop it up to help it remain in that form. It’s still fully wet at this point but can now, mostly, hold the shape. For an 8/9 oz. and up I would go with about 210 degrees for about 20 minutes. It will still be wet coming out of the oven and if the form isn’t perfect you still have a chance to reform just a little. Prop it up if need be, again to retain the form, and let it dry another 24 hours. From there you can dye and top coat.
Short and to the point. Thanks for posting 👍
Thanks so much. I want to make leather products and hope to make some extra money.
That's awesome - have fun with it!
Very helpful tutorial, concise, and right to the meat and potatoes of the business. Thank you 👍👍👍! Was watching 2 Latino tutorials on the subject, and nothing against Latinos, I'm one myself, but both were over 16 minutes long, and I said to myself, come on guys, I don't have time for tea time right now. So efficient and compact productions like these spare my nerves and time. Merci beaucoup once again.
Awesome tutorial!!! covers a lot quickly. Exactly what i needed. Thank you!!
Thank you, Ken!
Thanks Chuck, You answered some questions about those copper rivets that I have been wondering about! Great job educating us!
Thank you, Chris!
Any tips to keep copper rivets from tarnishing?
Awesome video. Thanks chuck.
Hi Chuck, I can not get the solid brass double capped rivets with a 13 or 14mm post stem in the UK, any help appreciated.
The brass rivets look great but man there hard to dome over.
If you don't have a rivet setter what can be used?
I got the solid brass #9 Flat head Rivets from weaver and when they arrived, I was clueless how to use them! Thank you for this video! Now using them will be really easy!
Thank you sir very helpful.
Crazy how confused I was about riveting lol, do I need a rivet gun? A rivet press that's $200? No I just need a little metal thingy and a hammer.
awesome video, awesome energy, awesome rivets
This was such an excellent video! I was thinking of switching from double cap to tubular because finding the proper post lengths in the double cap was difficult and I thought perhaps because tubular rolls back down then I would have more leeway.........................and you almost convinced me to stay lol. But having only 3 post lengths available is a real bummer. Going from 8 mm (Medium) all the way up to 11 mm (Large) leaves me at the same place I was with a 8 mm rivet that is barely peeking out the other end and an 11 mm that will be wayyyyyyyy tooooooo long :( #the search continues for something slightly longer than 8mm but not as tall as 11 mm. I will definitely keep your site saved as you have excellent prices tho!
Well I ordered all three sized of double sided rivets and some small eyelets but I don’t have metric hole punches. The hole is either too large or too small. What size hole punch do you use? Do you sell them?
Hi Judy,
Chuck usually uses a 7/64" punch or the #2 hole on the revolving punch linked below for the double cap rivets. The post diameter is the same on all three sizes, so you can use that size for all of them. Hope that helps.
www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/65-6230/heritage-compound-action/pr_9087
Thanks for this quick and clear explaination of the different rivets and how you apply them to the leather!
Wow good video tutorial bro 👍
Very good demo! Been watching many. I make note of only the good ones and you are on that list!
Another great video. It’s off topic, but could you cover darkening stamps without darkening the leather around it? I’m trying to keep a pale vegitan look with sharply contrasting stamps. Branding the inside of the stamp with a saudering iron maybe?
Thanks for the suggestion, we'll see about adding that to the list!
coldwind do you know about resists? Also I paint very carefully with dye, keep away from the edge of the stamped area to start and watch how far the dye leeches over, it isn't very much at all, but I have paint/dye some designs in dark brown and then put resist on them then dyed the rest of the area with a lighter dye, they turn out great. btw if you want the light brown to actually be "light" brown thin it out with 92% rubbing alcohol from Walmart, then experiment.
I had thought about using a resist, but worried it could get into the stamp and cause a problem. I also considered painting with a small brush and dye, but was worried about bleeding over the edge. I don’t mind doing that, but was wondering if there were an easier way. Thanks for the advice though, I will practice on some scrap and see what I can manage.
@@coldwind I use Tandy's Super Shene for a resist also for a final top coat on some projects.
Which rivet would you use a knife sheath and a holster?
Hello! Double Cap Rivets or 104 Tubular Rivets would both be great rivet options for sheaths and holsters! Here are links to those two rivet options... www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/02200/2200-double-cap-rivets/pr_55590/cp_/shop-by-project/sheaths/wet-formed-box-knife-sheath and www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/00104-bk-7-16/104-tubular-rivets/pr_58147
I have seen several leather tutorials and yours by far I can follow
What size is a #9 ,#12 ?
Can you use a 10mm setter on smaller diameter rivets, or is it going to mess it up?
Thank you sir
Chuck is the best.
Thank you for responding to my previous inquiry. What size punch it best for the 02270-SB-6 eyelets? Thank you. Judy
Hi Judy,
We would recommend a 3/16" hole for the 6 mm eyelets.
Really interesting and very well explained! You really are passionate about your work, Thank you!
Chuck, I find myself more times than not wishing I had a wide head rivet with a short, non-conventional length post. I like the wide head for aesthetics but work with thinner leather. I really do not like the look of the 'small' rivet. I have tried everything I can think of to shorten the post of a medium or large rivet to fit the thickness of my leather. I have tried cutters. I have tried to file the post down. I have tried using my rotary tool. What happens is that the OEM post is tapered and rounded. When I cut it, that is removed and it is nearly impossible to get the cap on the shaved down post. Can you think of a good way to shorten a long post? There do not seem to be large head, short post rivets on the market.
Hi Bruce,
About the only rivet we can think of that would have a wide head and short post is the solid copper rivets and burrs. The head is wide and you can buy short posts or clip them to the length you need when installing them.
@@WeaverLeatherSupply Thanks (Chuck). I have a supply of copper rivets. They would work but sometimes, the look of double cap rivets looks better. I found a piece of thin wood the height of the post I want. I drilled a hole in the wood, stuck the long rivet post into the wood and just filed the rivet until it was flush with the wood. I will let you guys know if it works.
thanks, so awesome. Your enthusiasm is contagious!
Is it possible to cut down the stem of a double cap rivet that is too long?
Hi Jordan,
I have heard of folks either cutting or sanding down the post if it's too long.
Great video Chuck...always informative
Very useful :)
What size copper rivet was that? Im confused about copper rivet sizes
HI Jeff,
With copper rivets, the lower the number, the bigger the diameter of the rivet. #8 will be your largest rivet and #14 the smallest. Which one you use depends on the project you are using it on, #9 is the most common size but they are fairly large so something like a belt or an item that gets a lot of use and strain these would be a good size. #12 is a good mid-size for attaching bag handles, etc.
All of the solid copper rivets on our site will have head and post diameter details to help you determine what size you think will look best on your project. Hope that helps
@@WeaverLeatherSupply thank you very much for the information.
Outstanding tutorial. Chuck, you're the best!