Nice to hear you spent 2,000hrs on it. We spend 1,000-1,500+ hours on builds we do. Some people can’t believe it. A fully custom car takes a lot of work.
You and the channel have come so far from starting at just having a go at building your first 4x4, well done. Killing it! Battle scars are stories and learning experiences, don't stress about them
Some people are just born freaks with the ability to learn and gain skills and talents ...❤....that some people will never get or have to try so much harder....
Good episode Richard. 👌 I binge watched the build of BARA45, cool to see your still making improvements and just fixing things as needed. Cheers mate. 👏
For a Barra rear main you could try running a smear of RTV on the outside of the seal. Check that the crank hasn't got a groove worn into it, it'll need a speedy sleeve if it has a groove. I've done a few Barra rear mains over the years as a Ford tech and haven't had any dramas after replacing the seal. The rear half moon sump seal could also be a cause of a leak if it hasn't been installed properly.
Ripper vid mate and love following the build. You'll have the same issue with your sliders tho after your fix. They need some kind of vertical gusset. Can't wait to see what's in store for it in the future 👌👌
Thanks for sharing mate, Jack's FJ45 project build is 400mm longer in the cab, lots of room for longer legs and sports seat and lockable storage inside the cab behind the seat...... Or you could swap the body for a Troopy!
Great watching this at the same time as building my 40/80. I start with a shorty and am 192cm tall, so the comment on extending the cab is spot on. I don't plan to extend the chassis, so this will move the canopy backwards at the same time. Still need to figure this out. Following since the very beginning Richard, great job!
I was thinking, if it's not too much hustle, when you go about doing this could you post the dimensions between two know points? I am happy to share my research (sending my Miro board link over the website form). I am coming in from the other direction, from the shorty, but the goal is the same. My Miro board has at least 4 different ways about doing this. Cheers!
Mate sick build and have followed it for a while. But the sliders need bracing to prevent them from bending upwards, I am sure you could fab up some wedges to weld in between the chassis rail and the slider anchor points. Sick Barra 40 💪🏼
Next time you have the gearbox out to deal with the rear main again have a look at the sump gasket where it connects to the block under the rear main. In 10 years as a mechanic i seen so many barras that “need a rear main” but it turns out the sump is leaking so you just clean up where it’s leaking from and silicon it up and that usually fixes the leaks
You may want to drill the exhaust nuts (or buy some that are drilled) and safety wire them. It's a fantastic skill to have and it can save the day sometimes. Love the channel!
Great vid mate. Noticed, re flywheel etc, it's worth fitting a yella Terra flex plate, use arp bolts and the mackielec bolt retainer. Best mods for reliability
Have you thought about running hydraulic brake booster? I was having loads of problems with my GU Patrol with braking, could never get the wheels to lock up with 35’ tyres, constantly trying to push the brake pedal out the firewall just to pull up in time. With it being on those size tyres and being 3.1T it was actually on the dangerous side and I couldn’t get past engineering with that set up. I changed to hydraulic booster, rebuilt my power steering pump and I can come to a stop really hard, it easily locks up the 35s. It actually gives people a scare with how hard it brakes now. The other week I had to do a roadworthy and mechanic came back complaining that he nearly shoot himself out the windscreen as he wasn’t expecting it to brake well and slam the pedal down and locked the four tyres up. Just thought I would pass it as a suggestion as I was having same issues as you talked about in your video and since doing this upgrade have never looked back.
Hey Schoey, I have a number of times but when they work well, they seem to be able to lock up 37"s on bitchumen so I keep telling myself I don't need to go down that path... but maybe I do.... Cheers for that comment. Good to hear from the other side.
I did a GU extra cab , best thing i did . More legroom and you can throw more stuff behind the seat. Best thing is the 4.5 cummins and auto. 44000 k and love it.
Those vehicles traveled the country with 80kw if you were lucky and razor blade off road tyres. Infrastructure projects used various types of landies and the little Toyo. Not a problem.
Cooling is my main bugbear in the LS1 LN106, It is all good untill the canopy goes on and create huge wind resistance and once the heat builds it keeps building unless you slow down, I've just put an engine oil cooler on and the oil pressure just drops to zero at idle @ operating temp so now its oil pump upgrade along with cam, liftersand timing chain while were in there. And yes the single cabs just don't have enough room. In hindsight a 3.8 V6 with 4 speed auto would have been the smarter choice, so I feel your regret.
@@ellietthillery8204 Yes all brand new Alloy 3 core rad, Davies craig electric water pump 3000CFM fan tried new caps @ 19 PSI nothing has worked have yet to try how the engine oil cooler goes when I get the new HV oil pump in, Had the tune optimised on the dyno, It only seems like the load effects it. It is no problem @ 1.6 ton with an alloy tray which got 10ltrs per 100klm, new steel tray for the canopy but without the canopy is 1.8 ton and gets 12 ltrs per 100 then with the canopy on it's 2.3 ton with added wind resistance from the huge awning and gets 20 ltrs per 100klm and slowly builds to overheating especially going up long steep inclines, going down it cools down again. I took the spotties off and haven't fitted the winch yet so without the weight it does everything else very well. It'll crawl throuh the scrub at 40 plus temps in Queensland.
@brianross4057 yea I come from td patrols and a few ls comp trucks, water pockets and flow was a major flaw that killed alot of them. I'd be bleeding motor to make sure coolants going where it needs. Oil cooler is a big help too. Maybe gearing could be changed to keep motor in its peak rpm for hills etx
@@ellietthillery8204 Gearing is pretty good it has 31.5's on it and the stock speedo running from the transfer reads spot on actual speed, I am going to go a Kelford truck cam with cnc'd stock 241 heads, but a lot of people say you can't beat the standard cam although when you look at the charts the truck cam makes more everywhere, I will also change the converter to suit because it is the stock one and I have been told that it could be a huge source of heat which stands to reason, I'm pretty sure I have done all I can with the coolant setup with the Davies Craig as it has no flow restrictions and is computer controlled for flow and the steam vents in the heads have been connected from the rear and front and vent to the top hose, I will beat it but it's gonna cost lot's.
@@brianross4057 You can see or calculate the much higher load on the engine just by the additional fuel consumption! As you mentioned in the 1rst post. IMHO all your conclusions are correct. Maybe look into a different timing? Will probably loose tom HP but your concern is high load = high temp. So I think that is worth a try, and also not costy.
Heims on a tourer, especially in Aus seem to be a pretty painful idea. That being said when are we gonna see the front 5 linked? 😅 The firewall and braking failure seems terrifying. Thanks for the upload, really good insight into the reality of living with a project 4b.
I had problems with fuel senders on my 79's after market tanks(they also break in stock tank). I got some fuel cell senders from Fuel Safe Systems in the US. No more broken pots/wiring. Fuel sloshing around off road breaks them. Sure you can find someone local in Aust. who has similar products
@@DesignedandBuiltyeah definitely gussets or wrap around. When i done my own on a Gu years ago i done playea to chassis and gussets. Worked a treat, especially out at cobaw.
Hey mate, enerdrive do universal magnetic float water tank senders that come in different lengths and have a common ohm range that should work with the haltech. Im pretty sure they work with fuel too
Ah the old Barra rear main leak my gq has a fg turbo and the rear main has leaked for 2 years straight there a absolute nightmare my mate who helped with the conversion done it like 3-4 times to get it as best as possible
And have you thought about gusseting your Sliders so they don’t bend again probably would be a decent idea tight for room though by the looks of things
Great recap mate, what brand light bar is mounted now? I was always off the idea of them because of bonnet glare but I also don’t want bullbar mounted lights either.
You see I am from the opposite side of the world and no-one where would try to put a turbo petrol engine in a tourer - due to "fear" of fuel consumption ;-) Can you give me an idea what the barra is consuming while touring? Last year I sold, after 10 years, my Ford Quigley 7.3 NA Diesel and the #1 question by 80% was ... how much. A fully build truck, extremely rare, like 10 or so in my country and people ask about fuel, not power, cost, weight, sound ... To give you an idea.
How do you retain the lightbar on the windscreen surround? Tried looking back on the old build videos and couldn't find it. Wanting to do something similar on my old land rover but not clear if you have access to the inside to bolt up the brackets or if using rivnuts or the like. Cheers!
@@DesignedandBuilt who worries about costing more to get more power, its smiles per mile through the exhaust that wins i haven't spend a cent more on the LS3. No one has ever made a straight 6 sound good* and don't even try to make a V6 sound good, they sound horrid, Can say the extracab is a great addition to a 40 ute. I have approx 300mm in mine and I'm 195cm and it is very comfortable. (* think an Aston Martin DB4 and DB5 would be the only one)
Awesome video, just an option for the fuel measuring you could use a differential pressure sensor (safiery do a few options) that could wire back to your haltech dash if you have a spare couple of inputs, one for each tank. Video link below for an overview of the options they have ua-cam.com/video/dh1SAEnkt7M/v-deo.html
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Nice to hear you spent 2,000hrs on it. We spend 1,000-1,500+ hours on builds we do. Some people can’t believe it. A fully custom car takes a lot of work.
A LOT of work in a custom car, I think you have to build one yourself to get the full appreciation!
You and the channel have come so far from starting at just having a go at building your first 4x4, well done. Killing it!
Battle scars are stories and learning experiences, don't stress about them
@@MattyP4x4 thanks so much Matty, appreciate it. Cheers for the support!
Great recap mate, thanks for taking us along as a long time subscriber, it's great to see you out enjoying all the hard work.
@@OffroadTouringLife thank you! Really appreciate the long time support! 🙃
Great video mate :)
@@TJANDMAC thank you 🙂!
Some people are just born freaks with the ability to learn and gain skills and talents ...❤....that some people will never get or have to try so much harder....
Yeah engineer brains
It's called ADHD, it's both a gift and a curse
@jarradmcdonald2895 not everyone that can learn subjects quickly has adhd 😂
You're right, the tism is another reason 🤣🤣🤣 @td42williams77
Good episode Richard. 👌 I binge watched the build of BARA45, cool to see your still making improvements and just fixing things as needed. Cheers mate. 👏
Cheers Scott! I’ll do some more videos on it shortly. Thanks for the support!
For a Barra rear main you could try running a smear of RTV on the outside of the seal.
Check that the crank hasn't got a groove worn into it, it'll need a speedy sleeve if it has a groove.
I've done a few Barra rear mains over the years as a Ford tech and haven't had any dramas after replacing the seal.
The rear half moon sump seal could also be a cause of a leak if it hasn't been installed properly.
Thank you, really appreciate that advice, will give it a go eventually and report back.
Hey, are you sure the crankcase isn't pressurising causing the rear main to leak? It might be worth checking the breather system
Ripper vid mate and love following the build.
You'll have the same issue with your sliders tho after your fix. They need some kind of vertical gusset.
Can't wait to see what's in store for it in the future
👌👌
@@Smiffbuilt yep agree, have been considering a wrap around style of mount! Thanks mate, cheers for the support. 😁
Thanks for sharing mate, Jack's FJ45 project build is 400mm longer in the cab, lots of room for longer legs and sports seat and lockable storage inside the cab behind the seat...... Or you could swap the body for a Troopy!
Great watching this at the same time as building my 40/80. I start with a shorty and am 192cm tall, so the comment on extending the cab is spot on. I don't plan to extend the chassis, so this will move the canopy backwards at the same time. Still need to figure this out. Following since the very beginning Richard, great job!
@@MrStolarsky bang on Paul. Thanks for the support!
I was thinking, if it's not too much hustle, when you go about doing this could you post the dimensions between two know points? I am happy to share my research (sending my Miro board link over the website form). I am coming in from the other direction, from the shorty, but the goal is the same. My Miro board has at least 4 different ways about doing this. Cheers!
Thanks for the shout out mate much appreciated
@@OnTrackCords thanks for those cords! They are working a treat!
Great to hear you're coming up to CLECS. Hope to be able to say hello 👋
Another great video. Keep up the great work.
@@sirstevo cya there! Thanks mate.
Mate sick build and have followed it for a while.
But the sliders need bracing to prevent them from bending upwards, I am sure you could fab up some wedges to weld in between the chassis rail and the slider anchor points.
Sick Barra 40 💪🏼
Yep that’s the go, I’ll do it on the rebuild!
Awesome video I watched the car being built great to see its been driven awesome
Glad you enjoyed it, more to come! Cheers
Good lord that thing is a monster! Great work man!
Thanks mate!
Next time you have the gearbox out to deal with the rear main again have a look at the sump gasket where it connects to the block under the rear main. In 10 years as a mechanic i seen so many barras that “need a rear main” but it turns out the sump is leaking so you just clean up where it’s leaking from and silicon it up and that usually fixes the leaks
Cheers Trav, I redid the sump at the same time and I swear I put a heap of gasket maker there but maybe not enough!
Thanks for the content. Cheers
@@cyclemoto8744 thanks for watching!
Awesome video thanks, looking forward to the upcoming ones 👍
@@sevysnape thank you!
You may want to drill the exhaust nuts (or buy some that are drilled) and safety wire them. It's a fantastic skill to have and it can save the day sometimes. Love the channel!
@@d110pickup thanks mate, I reckon you’re right, I’ll give it a go 🙂
Great vid mate. Noticed, re flywheel etc, it's worth fitting a yella Terra flex plate, use arp bolts and the mackielec bolt retainer. Best mods for reliability
Hey mate, thank you! Maybe next time I'm down there!
Have you thought about running hydraulic brake booster? I was having loads of problems with my GU Patrol with braking, could never get the wheels to lock up with 35’ tyres, constantly trying to push the brake pedal out the firewall just to pull up in time. With it being on those size tyres and being 3.1T it was actually on the dangerous side and I couldn’t get past engineering with that set up. I changed to hydraulic booster, rebuilt my power steering pump and I can come to a stop really hard, it easily locks up the 35s. It actually gives people a scare with how hard it brakes now. The other week I had to do a roadworthy and mechanic came back complaining that he nearly shoot himself out the windscreen as he wasn’t expecting it to brake well and slam the pedal down and locked the four tyres up. Just thought I would pass it as a suggestion as I was having same issues as you talked about in your video and since doing this upgrade have never looked back.
Hey Schoey, I have a number of times but when they work well, they seem to be able to lock up 37"s on bitchumen so I keep telling myself I don't need to go down that path... but maybe I do.... Cheers for that comment. Good to hear from the other side.
The Links look beautifully made, the look like a dinosaur bone on the table when you picked them up 😂😂
Hahaha true that!
Great built series and while it’s a shame about the damage, with your level of work, you really do need to test it..
Thanks Mark, exactly right!
I did a GU extra cab , best thing i did . More legroom and you can throw more stuff behind the seat. Best thing is the 4.5 cummins and auto. 44000 k and love it.
Sounds like an awesome build! Jealous of the extra cab.
With your skills it wouldn’t be impossible to extend your cab slightly, even if it was only the section below the rear window.!
Love your content.
Great that you mentioned the need to extend the cab...nice one mate....what was the issue with the cruise control?
Just a wiring issue in the end!
Switch for the fans is a great idea.
A must do!
the crank probably has a groove/wear where the rear main seal runs, get a speedi sleeve from skf if you do the seal again
Thanks mate, had been mentioned a few times. Will look into it.
I built a xtra cab chop top 45 and it makes it far better than the stock cab well worth the effort
@@neep401 haha I’m sure it would be ☺️ maybe one day….
Those vehicles traveled the country with 80kw if you were lucky and razor blade off road tyres. Infrastructure projects used various types of landies and the little Toyo. Not a problem.
Iconic!
Cooling is my main bugbear in the LS1 LN106, It is all good untill the canopy goes on and create huge wind resistance and once the heat builds it keeps building unless you slow down, I've just put an engine oil cooler on and the oil pressure just drops to zero at idle @ operating temp so now its oil pump upgrade along with cam, liftersand timing chain while were in there. And yes the single cabs just don't have enough room. In hindsight a 3.8 V6 with 4 speed auto would have been the smarter choice, so I feel your regret.
Sounds water flow related, are you getting constant water with no aeration
@@ellietthillery8204 Yes all brand new Alloy 3 core rad, Davies craig electric water pump 3000CFM fan tried new caps @ 19 PSI nothing has worked have yet to try how the engine oil cooler goes when I get the new HV oil pump in, Had the tune optimised on the dyno, It only seems like the load effects it. It is no problem @ 1.6 ton with an alloy tray which got 10ltrs per 100klm, new steel tray for the canopy but without the canopy is 1.8 ton and gets 12 ltrs per 100 then with the canopy on it's 2.3 ton with added wind resistance from the huge awning and gets 20 ltrs per 100klm and slowly builds to overheating especially going up long steep inclines, going down it cools down again. I took the spotties off and haven't fitted the winch yet so without the weight it does everything else very well. It'll crawl throuh the scrub at 40 plus temps in Queensland.
@brianross4057 yea I come from td patrols and a few ls comp trucks, water pockets and flow was a major flaw that killed alot of them. I'd be bleeding motor to make sure coolants going where it needs.
Oil cooler is a big help too. Maybe gearing could be changed to keep motor in its peak rpm for hills etx
@@ellietthillery8204 Gearing is pretty good it has 31.5's on it and the stock speedo running from the transfer reads spot on actual speed, I am going to go a Kelford truck cam with cnc'd stock 241 heads, but a lot of people say you can't beat the standard cam although when you look at the charts the truck cam makes more everywhere, I will also change the converter to suit because it is the stock one and I have been told that it could be a huge source of heat which stands to reason, I'm pretty sure I have done all I can with the coolant setup with the Davies Craig as it has no flow restrictions and is computer controlled for flow and the steam vents in the heads have been connected from the rear and front and vent to the top hose, I will beat it but it's gonna cost lot's.
@@brianross4057 You can see or calculate the much higher load on the engine just by the additional fuel consumption! As you mentioned in the 1rst post. IMHO all your conclusions are correct.
Maybe look into a different timing? Will probably loose tom HP but your concern is high load = high temp. So I think that is worth a try, and also not costy.
Love the content
Thank you!
Heims on a tourer, especially in Aus seem to be a pretty painful idea. That being said when are we gonna see the front 5 linked? 😅
The firewall and braking failure seems terrifying.
Thanks for the upload, really good insight into the reality of living with a project 4b.
Cheers Dylan!
Awesome rig! Do the sliders need gussets? Keep building and wheeling!!
I had problems with fuel senders on my 79's after market tanks(they also break in stock tank). I got some fuel cell senders from Fuel Safe Systems in the US. No more broken pots/wiring. Fuel sloshing around off road breaks them. Sure you can find someone local in Aust. who has similar products
Cheers Gavin, will have a look at them!
Yeah cobaw 🔥
So good isn’t it!
Get onto woody from the skid factory he's a knowledgeable man with barra motors mate 👍
Cheers mate! Will do.
need to put some gussets on those sliders so they dont bend up again
Cheers Jono, will do on the rebuild!
Could have added gussets to the slider mounts.
Fair point, probably should do it. Thinking of a complete mounting rejig on them to wrap around the frame!
@@DesignedandBuiltyeah definitely gussets or wrap around. When i done my own on a Gu years ago i done playea to chassis and gussets. Worked a treat, especially out at cobaw.
Hey, are you sure the crankcase isn't pressurising causing the rear main to leak? It might be worth checking the breather system
Hey Jamie, just checked and does'nt look like it! Cheers for the suggestion!
Surprised you don't have limit straps.
I absolutely love this build such a beast. Is there any chance you would sell the hydro bump brackets would love to put a set on my 105?
Haha yep, can do - dm me.
Hey mate, enerdrive do universal magnetic float water tank senders that come in different lengths and have a common ohm range that should work with the haltech.
Im pretty sure they work with fuel too
Thanks mate, will have a look into them. Sound pretty good!
Ah the old Barra rear main leak my gq has a fg turbo and the rear main has leaked for 2 years straight there a absolute nightmare my mate who helped with the conversion done it like 3-4 times to get it as best as possible
And have you thought about gusseting your Sliders so they don’t bend again probably would be a decent idea tight for room though by the looks of things
@@mickleighton Thanks Mick, its sooo average isn't it hahaha! Yep I probably should do that, cheers mate.
First time seeing your build, I doubt you are road legal with multiple mods to tyre and hight changes ect?
Great recap mate, what brand light bar is mounted now? I was always off the idea of them because of bonnet glare but I also don’t want bullbar mounted lights either.
Thanks mate! Stedi St2k!
@@DesignedandBuilt legend, thanks mate
Sounds like you need a speedy sleeve for the rear main seal issue.
I’ll look into them, cheers for the suggestion!
PLEASE BRO WHAT CAD SOFTWARE ARE YOU USING?
@@trentarcher690 Solidworks!
You see I am from the opposite side of the world and no-one where would try to put a turbo petrol engine in a tourer - due to "fear" of fuel consumption ;-)
Can you give me an idea what the barra is consuming while touring?
Last year I sold, after 10 years, my Ford Quigley 7.3 NA Diesel and the #1 question by 80% was ... how much. A fully build truck, extremely rare, like 10 or so in my country and people ask about fuel, not power, cost, weight, sound ... To give you an idea.
Can't complain, 18 litres/100 fully loaded with a roof top tent! Its not as good offroad, hard to gauge because its very fun to put your foot down 🤣
Is the Barra the other regret? Cool 4wd! ❤
Haha absolutely not! Thats the best part!
@@DesignedandBuilt ha ha 😝 😎👌🏾
Have you checked if you've got too high crank case pressure or possible worn or imbalanced crankshaft causing the rear main seal to leak?
Yes to the crank case pressure, but haven't checked if it was an imbalanced crank shaft. Thanks for that tip! Will do.
How do you retain the lightbar on the windscreen surround? Tried looking back on the old build videos and couldn't find it. Wanting to do something similar on my old land rover but not clear if you have access to the inside to bolt up the brackets or if using rivnuts or the like. Cheers!
Rivnuts into the windscreen!
@@DesignedandBuilt Legend!
G'day
What is the make and model of the light bar above your windscreen?
Cheers
Stedi ST2K www.stedi.com.au/4x4-driving-lights/led-light-bars/series/st2k.html?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw6oi4BhD1ARIsAL6pox3HroeAvlr6PpaekJ6K1CU2hZn4tCp3vgl0dGPnKtUa0O4D2p3Z_0caAltQEALw_wcB
4×4s with Engine's that need to Rev, I wonder why Toyota or other Companies NEVER BUILT OFF ROAD VEHICLES with these Engine's? They Do !
Ford builds a raptor which seems pretty popular?
mic volume is too loud btw
No good to know your fuel using if you are in the middle of nowhere if you hole the fuel tank without knowing.
100% agree, will fix it up!
big regret was not putting a LS engine in there eh Richard just admit it.
Look at all the fun noises coming out of the LCS shop truck.
Ha ha! Absolutely not.... Imagine paying more for a less reliable engine thats more expensive to get power out of 🤣
@@DesignedandBuilt who worries about costing more to get more power, its smiles per mile through the exhaust that wins i haven't spend a cent more on the LS3. No one has ever made a straight 6 sound good* and don't even try to make a V6 sound good, they sound horrid,
Can say the extracab is a great addition to a 40 ute. I have approx 300mm in mine and I'm 195cm and it is very comfortable.
(* think an Aston Martin DB4 and DB5 would be the only one)
@itsfromlawrence my ears bleed with all the V8 unbalancedness 😜
Build another one with a Cummins R2.8 Turbo Diesel ..
Why ? My mildly tuned FG turbo barra makes 1100nm at the wheels only 15psi and 3000rpm. Your boat anchor cummins?
@@nordic5490 Yes exactly, you are all revs and no torque, plus the Cummins will do many trouble free miles and get better economy.
I didn’t have to watch to know the biggest regret was not going manual
@@vicious0005 hahah absolutely not! The 6 speed auto is epic!
🤠👍💝🇵🇭
LEDS through cruise control off as well i had the issue on my au tonner tray
@@rigelrogers5264 what did you do to fix it?
Awesome video, just an option for the fuel measuring you could use a differential pressure sensor (safiery do a few options) that could wire back to your haltech dash if you have a spare couple of inputs, one for each tank. Video link below for an overview of the options they have ua-cam.com/video/dh1SAEnkt7M/v-deo.html
Had no idea they existed! Very cool, cheers for that comment.
pretty much every fuel gauge runs on the resistive float system, dont have joins in the tank and dont use crappy spade terminals
Thanks mate, the sender I’m using has joins in the take which failed unfortunately!
It’s not the rear main seal it’s the sump leaking. I have fixed that many of them it’s not funny.
Cheers Craig, will give it a look next time its apart!
So bead locks and makes all the other compliance pointless...😂
a ford engine would seem a strange choice for reliability
@@qksmith the Barra is almost untouchable in terms of reliability!
More ads pleas.
Winch motor? Bullet LOL get an iskra motor
Thanks Jimmy, next time it seizes 🤣
Should build more to make money mate ,with bigger cab,WHATS THE POINT OTHERWISE MAKE MONEY MATE,REPEAT MAKE MORE