I’m an old guy approaching 90 years. I took my bike out of storage after over 30 years, washed it off and had it gone over by a repair guy to be sure it is safe and that everything works. All I’m interested in is getting on the bike, not falling off nor running into somebody. I’m not interested in cutting off a second or two going to the store. My fake knee is improving as a result of my bike riding. But I have to admit I enjoy watching the Tour De France etc.
I bought a used Raleigh Intrigue 2.0 2 weeks ago as my first road bike, and the beginning of the video had me a bit bummed out, but by the end, I was pretty content again with what I’ve got for now. I definitely feel like a dog on hills, but I can improve my legs and fitnness faster than I can make a spare two grand.
My first bike is $75 and when I buy my second bike for $500 man what a difference. My advice is buy cheap bike for your first bike so you can appreciate a better bike.
Agreed! Same here! Hand a sh!t $75 Walmart Huffy, then had bought a 2011 Specialized Hard Rock Sport for 70 percent off its normal price!!! MANNN A WHOLE DIFFERENT WORLD!!
The first bike "I" bought was a $120+ cheapo from Montgomery Wards in '85(??). Bought in the spring, rode it thru the summer... probably 90-100+ miles per week. By the end of the summer it was TOAST! Threw it in the garbage! Three years later I bought a Schwinn Sierra MTB for ~$450+ ('88). That was a goodly expensive bike for the time - not the most expensive, but def more than most. 32 yrs later.. I still ride it to pieces! It's been thru untold crashes/damage but it just keeps working. It gets dusted by 27-29" wheeled bikes that are common today but for a grandad of a bike (& rider-- ME). I & it still blow past many other MTB riders! lol At this rate... it'll probably be the last bike I ever own!
Same here! Bought a second-hand four year old Merida mountain bike for 40$. Then the same day I got my new bike I broke quite a few of my personal records LOL
Me, with my 22KG old dutch bike overtaking small mopeds: come again bruh For real though starting on a heavy bike is great, because once you switch to an 11KG (which is considered heavy) it will feel like an absolute feather. People saying bikes over 10KG are heavy should show themselves out.
My posh French e-bike cost £2700 and wieghs over 30 kg, silly to even call them all the same thing. Still for a fat old git of 70 it does at least keep me riding, sort of. I will build an illegal 2KW machine using a £90 Raleigh bought off eBay, then I will beat the lot of yuse. ;-))
@Vaas Montenegro Yes, and I have brake repair costs to prove it. Yesterday I did a 6,700 foot assent for 8p of electricity and £12 in future disk brake wear costs. One day, a half decent e-bike will be equipped with a 3KW regen brake system, but in the meantime, burn baby, burn!
DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY! In 1970 - 1973. I won road-races with a heavy tank - a Schwinn Supersport 10-speed. I beat lots of guys with fancy, expensive bikes who drove to races with their bikes in and on their cars. I often rode 10 - 20 miles to my races on my Schwinn, and then raced, won, and rode back home. I won, not because of my "fancy" bike, but because I rode for fun, almost every day. I was always in shape for a race, I didn't train for them. I regularly see light-weight road-racing bikes made in 1980 - 2000+, for real cheap at garage sales. I recently bought a top-quality Raleigh road bike from the 80's or 90's for only $10. I'm now in my 60's and don't ride much, but I know I could win races with it if I were in shape. In my opinion, don't waste BIG money on a bike unless you are Olympic quality and do lots and lots of riding, and have lots of free-time to spend alone on a bike. A high-tech, feather-light bike hanging from your garage rafters does not win races. Just ride every day, lose 10 pounds, then you'll have a faster bike!!!
Actually it just occurred to me that if you keep everything oiled and maintained a bike like that could be the even better option compared to citybikes etc; especially compared in terms of speed. +If bought cheaply you can modify it yourself without feeling any guilt or anything... I could just ride everywhere that I need to go without too much of an inconvenience, fairly quickly (especially around town), cheaply & I'm doing something good for my health while heaving fun... I need to look into that. I love the minimalism.
@@lichking3711 Indeed, but you can replace the break pads with better ones for a much better braking experience, also you could probably tune/adjust those brakes a bit better as well. Sure it still won't 100% match the braking performance of the Superbike but I reckon it can get quite close.
My question is if you swap the brakes over to something more akin to the superbikes, swapped wheels and tires and then increased the number of gears to be better geared: first how much would that cost, and second how much would that narrow the gap? If you can get 4 or 5% between then then you have a chance of making the difference in skill or training. I'd bet its completely possible to not pay anywhere near as much as the expensive bike and yet still compete with it.
I've been riding a £65 Ebay Raleigh R100 as a daily bike for a few months now. It does the job but the main thing for me is my peace of mind locking it up in town for hours. If I had that Canyon I'd be terrified leaving it anywhere.
same they left out the main detail, it may have 100% more stopping distance @45km/hr, but I never go over 15-20, far too dangerous on city roads/pavements. Also the 'cheap bike' is 100% cheaper, I'd never leave the £1k one anywhere I had a piece of shit £40 bike and it still got kicked in while locked up, if they can't steal it they'll break it
@@fisty539 It's been a year since i made that comment and I'm still riding around on my R100 daily. My mate has had two bikes stolen in London in that time.
My dad was a bicycle master builder and shop owner, with 50+ years of experience. I raced for the first time when I was only 10, and the last time when I was 20 (Motorcycles became more atractive at that time), I always had two bikes for the road: one for training up to 5 days a week, custom regular steel tubing frame, steel rim 28x1 5/8 wheels with clincher tyres. I think it was a 10 speed. My racing only bike setup was: tubular tyres, Reynolds 531 tubing, 12 speed, mostly Campagnolo Super Record series. All in all, the racing one was barely over 9kgs and the trainer was nearly 13. And it made a huge difference. To jump on the lighter bike on race days, was not only a pleasure, but also helped to achieve the best results possible. So I have to agree, if you are going to race, start small (and cheap) and work your way up, you will see a difference. But if you only want the bike for weekend outings with your friends or to stay fit, your regular off the shelf mid priced bike will do just fine, if not better.
My new MTB is 29 er, Carrera Sulcatto, my mate (money no object) has a cube road bike, we went for a spin, him on his cube, me on my Raleigh Ritmo! Absolutely trounced him on the hills....shows doesnt matter what you have, is what you do with it!
I am using that cheap bike this time. I cycle with it almost 900km. I am not from a rich family, i bought it using my money that i save from money my mom gave to me for eat at school. My dreams is to buy one of superbike and become a profesional track cyclist. From my opinion, cheap bike or super bike its all same. The differences is how you ride it and how strong is your spirit. (Sorry for bad english, i am from malaysia) peace.
Iman Hakimi if 2 person has the same strength and spirit, the one with more expensive bike will win, sorry but it's not the same, especially at professional level
It's a LIE. The geometrics of your bicycle are the most important part of your bike. Lets remember these two idiots rode the original Tour De France on original bikes. They really aren't good at gettint the nuances. I rode 1000 bikes, got myself sized and into a my first 5000 bike and it was like the bike was riding itself. So easy to ride and so much more performance. Mostly though because it was setup for me, my body didn't seize up all over. These two missed the point of the better bike. It's meant for people who ride A LOT. It's not a bike for people who ride to the store for a bag of milk and frown if their breathing gets a little labored while they do it.
It's hurts more when your friends disappear up a hill and two old ladies nattering in a front garden know you're the "unfit one" as you pant "hello!" with the full knowledge they know you're unfit
8:39 you can really see how much time, love and effort he put in the good calibration of the calipers. Any Shimano dual-pivot brakes with good KoolStop Pads will give you plenty of stopping power for a fraction of the costs.
You should do a race: Ride 5km in downtown London. Lock bike up outside overnight. Ride 5km Back.... I think the cheap bike would be faster by well, an infinite amount of time...
Haha! It's funny because I saw "someone" park a Cervelo S5 at the train station every day for a whole month last year. With a cheap lock! And it never got stolen! It just so happens that the S5 just makes it across the $5000 value mark, and that means that no thief is interested in stealing it, because it would carry a higher penalty in court. Especially considering that it was almost certainly lojacked by the police.
I want to see the $900 v. The $3,000.00 bike. Maybe not cheap vs expensive but affordable quality vs expensive. Us riders have a different idea of a cheap bike.
To all the guys climbing hills on 12 kg bikes, just think about the training benefits over guys on lighter bikes. Your absolute power and fitness are most certainly better.
Heavier bike does not equal better training unless ur trying to keep up with stronger cycling mates. Si explained this in a few videos and it made quite a bit of sense.
If you can sustain 300 Watts over a 20min ride on a cheap bike, than you can sustain only 300 Watts on a super bike again... A watt is a watt...! No difference in power...
I think going with a cheap bike for as long as possible is better for your wallet and fitness. I feel more motivated to put out more power to keep the same speed as fellow riders, and I end up improving more than I would with a super bike.
90 pounds for that bike !! That's an amazing deal ! I bought my bike 90€ too, and i'm so happy with it, i think it was a 1000€ bike when it was new... It's 20years old but the original owner cared for it like 110% he gave me 2 saddles, an extra wheel, ... when i went to buy the bike the guy was gone for a last goodbye ride with his bike... We spent 2 hours talking. That was amazing.
leslie graham dude he meant he cared for it extremely well, people say “I put 110% effort into that ride” or use as he used it “cared for 110%” because the person put extra care into keeping the bike new. You obviously have never heard of figurative expressions and sound very young which explain why you may not have heard that term.
If you put descent tires on the cheap bike you could have controlled for rolling resistance. Multiple sites claim 15-20 watts per wheel with bad tires, and this could account for most of those time gaps.
Fun Video boys. With the cheap bike I also could afford two fabulous vacations with a lifetime of memories and get fitter. Riding bliss doesn't come from the bike. It comes from the activity.
Indeed. For the difference you could buy a home trainer, Elite Rampa or Kickr, and ride it even more often outdoors and indoors than the expensive one.
Dean Henthorn what about the cyclist? I have two bikes. One cheap. One super. The cheap does some things better than the super. For example, Parts and light-weight
Canyon Aeroad price: Around 7000 British pounds(9200 USD) Raleigh: 90 GBP(118 USD) Total Differnce in cost: 6910 GBP or 9115 USD. Spend that money saved on 1) 2000 GBP wheels or 2600 USD (Mavic Cosmic Ultimate or Campagnolo Bora Ultra 50. 2) 900 GBP or 1200 USD on a Carbon stem, handelbar, seatpost. 3) 1100 GBP or 1500 USD on a Dura Ace Mechanical Groupset. All components could be bought for cheaper from ebay (Used) Total: 4090 GBP or 5395 USD for a top notch bike vs almost 7000 GBP or 9200 (Almost Double) for a new Canyon. I know I will get blasted for used a raleigh frame with ultra high quality components. Thanks for the like! Cheers!
Thinking about amateur racing career years ago on the cheap one and looking at the older Campa Record on my wall with some dust to clean, I would even say, the best one is the one you ride.
I would like that cheap bike he has. There are no used bikes in my area for sale except over priced very damaged department store bikes. My Walmart huffy was totaled years ago and I can’t even replace it because I broke. So no bike for long time.
.. bought a Raleigh SuperCourse in 1970. Rode often and included a West Coast ride of 1500 miles. It still worked fine, with regular maintenance, until 2017 when i finally sold it. Might not be as fast as a superbike, however it got me anywhere i wanted to go for 47 years, at a fraction of the cost !!
Well that sort of takes the piss out of my 1975 Raleigh Super Grand Prix, which sits against the wall behind me as I type this. Acquired custom wheels way back then, and replaced bits and pieces as they wore out, but it's largely the same bike. That's a lot of transporation for probably $20-$30 a year. Fun fact: the bike is now a rarity - I could sell it today for about what I paid for it. :-)
Walter Mills ...i might think differently if i was a racer, however like most of us i enjoy just getting out there. Not worrying about the cost of repairs or anyone trying to rip a bike off. Enjoy life, it's pretty short, yes?
I still have my Carlton Criterium, it's had three chains, numerous brake blocks, still the same saddle, and it's as comfortable as the Cannondale Supr Six 105 I borrowed for a summer when I stripped the Carlton down to blast and repaint the frame. Yes the Cannondale was quick, but I was very pleased when I got back on the Carlton.
This makes me feel kind of better for not being able to keep up with other local cyclists, when I see them riding bikes that cost around 2000-5000€ and I'm on one that costed 250€ lol
on my $80 single speed I have the luxury of literally never being overtaken by somebody on a shittier bike -- and if/when it happens I'll be proud of them, haha
lol same, I'd take my £200 aluminium, 18 gear, v-brake over a £1k carbon fibre, 21 gear, disk break any day, I use it for like maybe 1-2 miles/day. And I've seen these £1k just get smashed to pieces coz if they can't steal it they'll break it. Always lock up next to a fancy bike
Don't make the mistake I made when I bought my first road bike, I spent 1k on a carbon roadbike, wrecked it in a few months and spent 300 quid on a used well maintained alloy bike with near/equal spec to the carbon bike and I found the alloy bike to be more comfortable, quieter, more fun to play around on and much easier to push to the limits, only buy a carbon racer if you want to compete, otherwise stick with alloy or even a finely crafted steel frame!
thats true, i have two bikes, a carbon trek madone 3 and a alum domane 2, both with shimano 105 11sp, and my best times are with the alloy bike!, found it more stiff and confortable, weird but true.
What? What did you do to wreck the carbon frame? I spent 1.5k on mine and 50,000 km later it's still completely fine. Nothing at all fragile about Carbon.
Agreed, I have spent most of my cycling life on aluminium. I got a carbon bike and it cracked in 4 months. Peace of rubbish. Now upgrading to Titanium, all the advantages of carbon with non of the problems.
If Lance in France Wearing Stretchy Pants had both of his nugs removed, would that leave more room on the seat for faster pedaling as they're not in the way?
I think the big conclusion is ONLY 7.1% IN THE TIME TRIAL, with a cheap bike that has a longer head tube (lesser aero position). This is the proof that for the average Joe who doesn't do time trial competitions, all this "aero" marketing BS is a big waist of 💰. And notice how they don't talk about it in the video to avoid frustrating the sponsors. As Eddy Merckx use to say: "don't buy upgrades, ride up grades".
I mean, its a pretty massive difference, just like a road bike vs mtb on the road... The difference is, are you wanting to pay 70x more? If yes, there you go. If not, turns out a $100 used bike isn't too bad after you replace that nasty bar tape.
One bike you keep up with your pack, have a great ride, the other you bonk half way through and are left twisting in the wind after being dropped hard. Long way home...
I'd love to see another version where you take the cheap frame bike and upgrade it: stick an 11sp group on it and similar carbon wheels (though rim brake of course) and try again. As in: is it better to spend $7,000 on a new bike or $3,000 on upgades?
As a long time rider of a cheap bike, all I can say Peter is that would be like putting lipstick on a pig. The frame is the heart and soul of the machine. Cheap bike frames are just that. I rode my cheap bike again today to the YMCA for a leg workout. It is a hilly 14 mile trip one way. I kept my HR in Zone 3 and enjoyed the experience. The difference is about 3 mph on my average speed. Who cares about that? So 45 min. one way trip on my road bike, 54 min. on my cheap bike.
i think this is exactly the thing they should suggest for riders. where's the point of diminishing return? Yes the $100 bike is 10-15% worse, but if you spend $2k you'll probably get within 1-2% performance of the $10,000 bike.
Just for the interested ones among us, I calculated the braking Gs from the test, assuming they were accurate with the 40-0 km/h and the measurements. The cheap bike only slowed down at about 0.6 Gs, which is similar to a road car on snow with studded winter tyres. The super bike slowed down at about 1.16-1.17 Gs, which is similar to a modern road car on dry tarmac with normal summer tyres. Would be interesting to see if there exist grippier tyres (softer compound, wider perhaps?) for the bikes, and see if they could match the top crop of modern sports cars on the best rubber, capable of braking Gs in the vicinity of 1.5+ Gs.
@Advanced Driving Locking the front wheel is always my biggest nightmare. I've had it happen a couple of times in slippery conditions, and the front just disappears from underneath the bike...
Light is faster, obviously, But once you get to 9Kg "affordable" bikes, is it worth it to pay MANY thousands of dollar more to get it in the 7Kg range, specially if your are not a pro? It is becoming a sort of obsession and people are whiling to pay ridiculous prices for each gram. Cycling manufacturers, of course, are thrilled with this insane behavior, and accordingly they make insane profits.
The weight of a bicycle is generally overrated and overstated. On a perfectly flat course, weight makes almost no difference. The 'almost' exists because of the inertia of the bicycle, which makes acceleration lower for the same force output, and reduces speed losses due to wind, tyre, and mechanical resistances. Hence, it is worse when you are starting, and better once you are at speed. However, we must remember that the weight difference between bicycles is a small fraction of the inertia of the rider. The difference between an entry-level bicycle and a top-of-the-line bicycle is a few bidons of fluid. On a hilly or mountainous course, by contrast, a small weight difference does have a significant effect on the rider over the length of a course, since the force output required on an incline must additionally account for some portion (or 'component') of the mass of the bicycle. There is no reciprocal gain on the other side of the hill, however, because objects fall at equal rates regardless of weight. As above, only the inertial advantage can be taken into account. Thus, the weight of a bicycle is particularly important for specialist hill climbers, and similarly so for sprinters (although other factors such as stiffness are more critical) but less so for all-round classics riders. I would always opt for the 80-gram heavier saddle to ensure that I could endure the whole race with my nether region intact, and sacrifice the negligible difference that it made to my hill climbing and acceleration.
I was in an A grade race and coming into the final 5km when I noticed a guy on one of the cheapest road bikes you can buy. Over the last 2kms he pulled away on a hill and ended up beating all the guys on 10k plus bikes....
I don't know Kgs from clown shoes but my mid-90s Cannondale weighs only a couple pounds more than the Specialized bikes the students I rode across Texas with were riding, and cost a thousand bucks less. I didn't notice a thousand bucks difference in our riding. But, if you have that kind of jack to spend, go for it, and enjoy your riding. In the end, it doesn't much matter if you are having fun riding, does it?
Serious cyclist always have more than one bicycle.... if you ever want to start cycling my best advice is start with that kind of cheap bike... believe me even when you already have an expensive one it will still be the one you ride most because heavier and harder to ride bicycle is best for training... save the expensive one for wear and tear and only use it for important rides.
This is what I'm doing. I haven't ridden a bike since I was a young teenager (20 years ago!) so it feels like I'm starting to learn to ride almost from scratch. I'm able to familiarise myself with all the parts and make sure I know how to adjust them without fear of ruining something expensive. It's hefty steel construction, but I'll only be riding on flat road for a good while.
I would have loved to have seen this on a realistic "cheap" bike. An entry level road racing bike is about £500-£1000. Totally depends on if you are going to be racing or trying to be King of Strava lol
I just got into cycling. I can't imagine spending that much for a bike, but it's been incredibly fun for my cheap bike. It'd be a dream to ride a bike like that someday, but for now i'm enjoying what i have. Plus I don't have to run the risk of getting that type of bike stolen.
There's a lot to be said for not having to worry about a crash destroying your 5k bike. I tend to really baby expensive bikes and that takes the fun out of it.
@@hans6304 yes I know how you feel it's absolutely wonderful isn't it cannot agree with you more enjoy your cycling hope you get some lovely weather where you are thank you for your reply
Excellent video and very informative. Conclusions were completely unsurprising, but very encouraging that a sub-£100 bike can hold up relatively well against a multi-thousand pound machine. I also found the presenter chemistry very good, with the apparent age-gap adding an interesting dimension that's very relevant to the sport. Subscribed.
Buy the £90 bike, replace the brake calipers, tyres and wheels, for a fraction of the price of the "superbike" you'd be very close in performance. You'd lose weight, gain both aero and braking, and still be well under £300.
It would be interesting to take the £90 bike, spend £300 on improvements and then see how much of the difference in made up. I would guess at least 50% of the difference.
mad thumbs Not always. 90% of the time it will be better to custome your bike rather than bike one from the house seller. I bought mine and it was a really cheap one, fixed bike, only 200 euros and I spent around another 150 on improvements and I can fairly say that the difference between my friends bike that is Ashley a F expensive bike are not really big. We ride together here in Madrid like F crazy and I'm always by his side, and he is nuts. So, customs bikes are better 90% of the time.
Spot on, Big Foz. It's a silly test because the cheap bike is ridiculously too cheap and heavy, with touring tyres and probably the worst brakes they could find. Is the Raleigh steel? 11.8kg? WFT? There are very cheap alu bikes that are about 9kg, with better tyres and brakes which would've been a better comparison. They might was well have used a hybrid or flat-bar touring bike
The lighter the frame the faster the bike, especially uphill. The only way you'd get anything worthwhile for £300 would be with all second-hand parts. I've had from budget to £7k bikes and the 7k is a fucking joy to ride, wouldn't sell it for 10.
In a sense, if you already own a Raleigh, you can just swap in a Shimano 105 groupset, a decent set of Chinese carbon wheels and nice racing tires. You will achieve almost identical result.
I ride a Cannondale cad4 frame from 1995. It's 22 lbs. I'm super happy with it but I wonder what the best bang for the buck improvment I could make is? Carbon wheels is what I'm thinking..anyone care to suggest anything? A bigger engine is what I want the most....im working on it!! Lol
This was a fantastic video - from production quality to the informative content. Very compelling, real and understanding. Keep up the great work! CAADX 105 SE 2020
Now compare 1000$ Shimano 105 Bike with 10000$ Shimano Dura Ace Di2 bike with power meter and tell us average power consumption in 40 km/h. (I bet it wouldn't be more than %5)
For a serious roadie, it's often not though. On the flats, going 35kph isn't too hard for someone who trains actively and to reach an average speed of over 30kph, you're gonna be going 35 for a lot of the time.
Ive had several sub £100 roadies and never had a brand new more expensive bike, typically I'll change the gear/brake cables and put decent tyres on and just go out and ride! for a weekend toy I don't see the point spending any more, if it suits an individuals needs you can get a lot of bike on a budget!
Wow, this comments section is full of retards who think biking has something to do with speed or fitness. It is in these assumptions they miss the true import of a light, expensive bike. SO SAD!
Just shows the more money you have the less fit you need to be to compete. Worth the purchase for events if you are a competing athlete. So many people spend this money on their commuter as they think it makes them better.
When I started with racebikes almost 20 years ago, it was on a Peugeot Aspin 14 with downtube shifters (Shimano 105) and 20mm tyres. A true classic. I purchased it in a relatively worn out shape on eBay and restored it. AFAIK it was a steel frame, but despite its shortcomings, I loved that beast to bits. Climbing hills out of the saddle using big gears make it bend like rubber (I weigh around 100 kgs @ 1,96m) and it felt a bit wobbly over 65 km/h in descends. Nevertheless it was great fun riding it. An accident separated us after 4 years. After that, in Jan 2007, I bought a new Cannondale CAAD5 105 (2x10) with WHR 550 wheels. I had no idea then how different a bike could possibly feel. It is extremely stiff, lightweight (8.7 kgs with a 63cm frame) and very stable in fast descends. Over 75-80 km/h it feels a bit nervous but I'm not quite sure if that's just me or the bike. The wheels are OK but certinly not Shimano's finest. I still have it to this day even though I ride much less these days. I don't think I'll ever sell it. It's a real beauty in red with its black wheels. Sometimes I just look at it with a smile on my face... :-)
Interesting Video lads, how about a part 2 where you upgrade the Raleigh with decent B-Bracket, faster tyres, reasonable quality ali wheels, new chain, new pedals (with power meter for science), fresh cables,new brake blocks. do something with bars/ position. add the 'upgrade components in stages and retest (sorry Si) each time. Now THAT would be really interesting
In 1990, when I purchased my Bianchi, I thought it was safe because of the puke-green colour. Unfortunately, some young kid in the bike shop was really excited and said I was lucky to buy that bike. I spent three days making the bike ugly, taking off everything that said Bianchi, and turning it into "supercycle" complete with lettering. I think that is a Canadian brand several tiers below Raleigh. I still have the bike.
It all depends want you want the bike for as well, if you want to ride out with a competive road bike group then you might need a superbike, if you want a daily ride and a run out on your own for fitness then most bikes would be sufficient
yeah I have some sort of half mountain bike half road bike thing that I bought years ago, Have been doing a 30 min rid each weekday to build up some fitness again. Its works perfectly, Im still doing 9km in 30 mins which isnt bad for someone unfit like me! lol
I got an old Cannondale M700 from the early to mid 90s. Biggest complaint is no mounting points for disc brakes and sourcing replacements parts is a bit of a pain.
I like the idea of the test but what I find unfair is that the cheap bike is also a used bike. I think it would have told us more if they'd compared a freshly bought cheap bike with all components still in great condition and then compared it with their sponsored super bike. But no matter, I don't find the numbers that shocking. It's the different between a racing bike and an everyday bike.
Not much difference in performance actually. Cycling is becoming increasingly commercialised Enjoy the experience irrespective of bike type Avoid blowing a hole in your pocket!!
a better comparison would be $1000-2000 (where most fairly serious but still cash-strapped riders go to), and a $6000-10000 bike (where "high end" bikes reside, for pros, or people who can afford it). that would be much better. ie, a semi aero bike with something like 105 or rival, like the Specialized Allez, vs an actual aero bike, or a serious climbing bike, like the s-works tarmac or venge.
Sure. But what company that makes one for 10k wants to have them do that? The luxury bikes are usually just that - luxury. They sell on name brand, aesthetics, recognition, personal preference.... not on performance per se.
hey man that was the whole point of my comment, so you can compare an actual value bike to what most would call a bling bike, and see if the extra thousands of dollars actually get you anything. And I'm sure quite a few brands would want GCN telling their million plus viewers that the expensive bike actually is faster. It was just an idea.
I'm only pointing out that if the data is not in their favor, it's not great and helps their competitors. A lot of people make purchases based on $/performance ratios (just look at the aero market). Nothing personal, only pointing out the reasons why your idea may not have happened.
The main point is that IF you are competing, it does make a difference. If you are not and you are riding for fitness only or the occasional ride with a group it doesn't really matter. I would point out the one area where that is not true, the braking. If you are in a pace line with a group the cheap bike is a risk to the group as your stopping distance is significantly longer. (I would not want you behind me, even if you are Greg Lemond ) because you cannot overcome physics. What is brilliant about this review is they made the comparison of a Soros equipped bike (entry level) with disks would be a strong contender for a race off. The great part of this review is they used a very capable and vastly different platform on purpose and they were still pretty close on the numbers. Ride comfort is what matters most for long rides, and fit is the key, I have passed up a lot of riders on long distance rides that were on 3K+ bikes, with my 105 group K2 :o)
We were just trolling. To be honest I would not have minded paying a lot for a quality bike except bike theft are high, and I don't like the idea of a 15k$+ pile of money sitting outside barely secured by the equivalent of a bar of steel.
Having just got rid of all my bikes, and then losing my job (thanks corona) I will be going from 1 extreme to the other - although the increased demand in bikes has sucked up a lot of the good second hand bikes and bargains. Makes me feel better watching this though.
Particularly when you realise corona is a scam to ruin the economy in preparation for the satanic jesuit new world order. Most people are believing the lie. Toxic.com Questioningcovid.com
For anyone wondering, the Raleigh specifically looks to be a 2011 Raleigh Race 16. Parts list as follows: Shimano 2300 Derailleurs/Shifters (low end stuff, not even given a word name) Aluminum frame w/ steel fork Miranda 50/34 Chainrings 12-25 cassette "Alloy Caliper Brakes" "Deep Section Wheels" w/ 28mm tires. All around a fairly low end bike, but still a fair step up over a GMC Denali or that black\green thing Walmart's selling now (or your country's equivalent). It'd make a decent college commuter or city grocery getter, being cheap and reasonably alright. Won't have to worry as much about theft. I know I wouldn't be as upset about my £100 bike being stolen if it was that vs a £7500 bike.
I don't race, I ride for fitness, so my 8kg carbon-frame/Ultegra-equipped mid-range bike gives me a slightly better workout than a superlight top-end bike would. What I have found most effective, particularly for climbing, is the cost-free measure of maintaining a body weight of 66kg at a height of 1.82 metres. In late-middle-age it ain't easy, but it's doable.
Hey we're the exact same dimensions. It's amazing. These guys tell me I need to shell out a grand for a bike that will be 4 kg lighter. I tell them to dump one of their water bottles and lay off the cookies and you just saved a grand.
Thank you. I am actually in the process of purchasing my first road bike; although it won't be anytime soon because of the bike shortage. I don't plan on spending much on my first road bike though, but I will make sure I get some good breaks if I get into some serious cycling!
Bottomline...unless someone is sponsoring and PAYING you to ride, stick with the cheaper bike that provides 95+% of the performance for a mere fraction of the price.
I am reading comments about this being an ad for Canyon and I see it differently--this is an ad, in my opinion, for how much bike you can buy for so little and for how well a used bike can actually perform. And the Raleigh with better wheels and brakes, well, complete bliss, I think, and time for fisticuffs should a Canyon try to ease past, at least for those of us who don't like being overtaken. Such fun and pain, too.
This is not a fair comparison. Get a new cheap one with tiagra or sora, and good tyres (cheap to replace), and identical fit in both (handlebar height). Difference would be small! If you consider a bike with 105 or campy centaur/veloce, then theres great performance!
that's bs.. evry bike gets stolen if it's owner is an imbecile... i have 2 bikes, one with tiagra and one with ultegra and i NEVER let any of them outside to be stolen.
@@torianc9195 if puting your bike inside is a luxury, just leave it outside;) and i;l look for it on ebay or wherever else.. ..PS:.. it's a fucking bike, not a truck ;).
@@torianc9195 not more stupid than the one who rather leave his bike outside and have it stolen than bring it inside. ..if you want to spread your stupidity, do it in your own house, in the toilet.
@@7amid- Never heard of that brand, but I've been eyeing stuff from Ribble lately, you get a lot for your money. I think the only downside is that you have to wait for it to be built.
the good news is 10% uphill and 7% on the flat means road cycling is NOT exclusive it's pretty much open to anyone, even poor people can get into it just fine with a few hundred squid. Unlike some other sports
10% sounds nothing, but it's one minute difference for 2km. Think that you go for 30km race, it'll be 15 min difference, which is long enough time to be 1st place or last place
sure but for a flat daily commute(their test showed a 7% difference on flat terrain) of say 8km at say an average 30(18.5mph, doable for most people on a road bike)kmh you'd save exactly 1 minute. It's not nothing, but it doesn't justify buying a 12000$ bike over a 200$ one
Why not make this a reasonable review and get one new 500€ bike as the "cheap" option and a 10 year old used high quality bike for 400-500€? And a new 1000-1500€ bike for comparison. Bet you'd see much less difference. Only very few people that are really getting into road cycling will buy a bike like the Raleigh that has been fairly cheap even when it was brand new.
Not true. I love cycling but sadly due to 2 bikes been stolen (even in my shed with chains) and a low income I cannot afford grand bikes. I just bought a 2nd hand Gaint Avail 5 2015 at £150 so I think that would be a better comparison.
This is a very good idea. Do comparisons across the variety of upgrades (even try buying used stuff?) and see just how much "superbike" you can get within a budget, provided you're doing the labour yourself.
tires (match them between the bikes, PLEASE!), brakes, and wheels. in that order. maybe match the overall gearing between the bikes, just for comparison.
I just ride for the fun of it. A inexpensive bike = guilt free fun. A expensive super bike = what if I scratch it😨. What if I break it😱. What if it gets stolen😠. Worry is not fun.
You did not explain to him properly which is the main reason why I gave up German evening classes since grammar was avoided (the teacher was scared of frightening away the students). 'An' precedes a word starting with a vowel. Else it is 'a' that is used for words starting with a consonent.
great video but would have been so much more relevant for so many of us if you compred the super bike with an entry level brand new bike (something like 9 kilos...)
As an mtb rider all my life i have found that its entirely down to me how fast or slow the bike goes.i bought a carbon scott back in 2001 and yes it was faster and i could brake much later with hydraulic brakes.But there were days where i would go cycling and my body would just not be up to it and i would think the bike felt slower and heavier but looking back its all down to the rider.Of course when your in your early 20s you can cycle like a rocket all day but getting older no matter how expensive the bike is its still an old engine getting in it and while in your head your still as fast as you ever were the reality is your not nor will you ever be.That said riding a very expensive bike be it mtb ir road bike does put a smirk on your face, people who dont ride are shocked by how expensive parts are for bikes.If i cycled everyday it would cost more to run my mtb for the year than my car.
hmm, I can't quite put my finger on it, but something about this video has planted the idea in my subconscious that I need to go out and buy myself a medium sized bag of walnuts!
See (unfortunately) what you mean. Do these guys not realise they look like an advertisement for mens goolies ? why can't they dress normally like all other bikers with the same gear or is it just the way athletes seem to like showing that the only aim of the day is to ride ride ride and F+ck it if my goolies are hanging out for all to see kind of thing. I ride bikes but I certainly don't look as if I'm wearing babies nappies and haven't seen a lady in months.
I respect your final comment so much, being somebody who trains hard but hasn’t got the money for expensive bikes I really appreciate it. I have a Boardman Hybrid and a 1988 steel framed road bike and still have a hell of a lot of fun. My bikes may not be the best but I can still pass people on expensive bikes occasionally. It’s all about the ride and not so much about the bike, though of course like us all I crave that high end ultra aero carbon framed beauty that weighs no more than the mrs’ handbag 😅.
I’m an old guy approaching 90 years. I took my bike out of storage after over 30 years, washed it off and had it gone over by a repair guy to be sure it is safe and that everything works. All I’m interested in is getting on the bike, not falling off nor running into somebody. I’m not interested in cutting off a second or two going to the store. My fake knee is improving as a result of my bike riding. But I have to admit I enjoy watching the Tour De France etc.
I hope when I am approaching 90, I can still get out on a bike! Kuddos to you!!
That’s amazing to be able to ride a bike at the age of 90
amazing
keep it up brother, biking is one of the most enjoyable and relaxing ways to stay in shape. great for exploration too.
Well done Sir! Enjoy.
I live in a city where Super Bike very likely means it will someday become someone else's bike.
This comment is underrated😂😂😂
Oooooh that scares me 🤣
If I get a $6000 meme superbikr OF COURSE I Will invest at least $100 in a concealed GPS system
>someday
I think you meant "soon"
Everything will he stolen in my country
I love how they treat the cheap bike with respect.
👍
me too, I own a newer raleigh and I love it
I bought a used Raleigh Intrigue 2.0 2 weeks ago as my first road bike, and the beginning of the video had me a bit bummed out, but by the end, I was pretty content again with what I’ve got for now. I definitely feel like a dog on hills, but I can improve my legs and fitnness faster than I can make a spare two grand.
是的
Not everyone can afford a thousand dollar bike. People with a tight budget just pick the best bike within their budget. Props to them
Here in Brazil, the “cheap” bike is an amazing bike. The expensive one is just a dream 😂😂😂
Macho, chegou aqui como? Kkkkk
vinicius cologna kkkkk
The "heavy" bike is light bike for me becouse my bike weights 18kg
well u can join a cartel, sell drugs and kill people and afford an expensive bike :D
@@andreasnussbaum5409 kkkk I better keep out of trouble and enjoy my ok mtb :D
I have a cheapo bike. I took the paint off and put a cervelo sticker on it. It just got a lot faster.
Very impressive, I want to triple the value of my bike and sell it on, do you have anymore stickers?
Now all you need is a Lance Armstrong jersey, and you're sure to never test positive for PEDS.
Dylan's DIY Workshop ahàhah ahàhah ahàhah ahàhah
A Campagnolo cap can also make you 10% faster.
hahah!
My first bike is $75 and when I buy my second bike for $500 man what a difference. My advice is buy cheap bike for your first bike so you can appreciate a better bike.
Agreed! Same here! Hand a sh!t $75 Walmart Huffy, then had bought a 2011 Specialized Hard Rock Sport for 70 percent off its normal price!!!
MANNN A WHOLE DIFFERENT WORLD!!
@@surenxavier8915 what a discount, how can you get it?
I did the same!
The first bike "I" bought was a $120+ cheapo from Montgomery Wards in '85(??). Bought in the spring, rode it thru the summer... probably 90-100+ miles per week. By the end of the summer it was TOAST! Threw it in the garbage!
Three years later I bought a Schwinn Sierra MTB for ~$450+ ('88). That was a goodly expensive bike for the time - not the most expensive, but def more than most.
32 yrs later.. I still ride it to pieces! It's been thru untold crashes/damage but it just keeps working. It gets dusted by 27-29" wheeled bikes that are common today but for a grandad of a bike (& rider-- ME). I & it still blow past many other MTB riders! lol
At this rate... it'll probably be the last bike I ever own!
Same here! Bought a second-hand four year old Merida mountain bike for 40$. Then the same day I got my new bike I broke quite a few of my personal records LOL
This is the strangest episode of top gear I have ever seen.
Pat Seb you almost made me piss myself, well played 🤣😂
it's two Richards but tall
😆😆😆 it's better!
This is not topgear I think.
Jermy and James look,s younger I wonder what filter they used
Gcn: 11KG is too heavy
Me, with a 17KG steel frame old rigid MTB: come again bruh
Me, with my 22KG old dutch bike overtaking small mopeds: come again bruh
For real though starting on a heavy bike is great, because once you switch to an 11KG (which is considered heavy) it will feel like an absolute feather. People saying bikes over 10KG are heavy should show themselves out.
Right? Those old MTB's fucking rock!
@@smirnoffvodka2618 I have a 6.6kg bike (among others). it's amazeballz on hills.
My posh French e-bike cost £2700 and wieghs over 30 kg, silly to even call them all the same thing. Still for a fat old git of 70 it does at least keep me riding, sort of. I will build an illegal 2KW machine using a £90 Raleigh bought off eBay, then I will beat the lot of yuse. ;-))
@Vaas Montenegro Yes, and I have brake repair costs to prove it. Yesterday I did a 6,700 foot assent for 8p of electricity and £12 in future disk brake wear costs. One day, a half decent e-bike will be equipped with a 3KW regen brake system, but in the meantime, burn baby, burn!
DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY! In 1970 - 1973. I won road-races with a heavy tank - a Schwinn Supersport 10-speed. I beat lots of guys with fancy, expensive bikes who drove to races with their bikes in and on their cars. I often rode 10 - 20 miles to my races on my Schwinn, and then raced, won, and rode back home. I won, not because of my "fancy" bike, but because I rode for fun, almost every day. I was always in shape for a race, I didn't train for them.
I regularly see light-weight road-racing bikes made in 1980 - 2000+, for real cheap at garage sales. I recently bought a top-quality Raleigh road bike from the 80's or 90's for only $10. I'm now in my 60's and don't ride much, but I know I could win races with it if I were in shape. In my opinion, don't waste BIG money on a bike unless you are Olympic quality and do lots and lots of riding, and have lots of free-time to spend alone on a bike. A high-tech, feather-light bike hanging from your garage rafters does not win races. Just ride every day, lose 10 pounds, then you'll have a faster bike!!!
Absolutely rigth. I did almost the same at the 80's with a Peugeot, a not special bike...
Agree, its all about the horsepower pedalling the bike.
But if the other guys also have horsepower a superfancy bike might just tip the scales in your favour.
In many ways, riding a heavy bike trains you to be stronger
True
To place to whole test in perspective: The cheap bike is 98% (!) cheaper and only 10-15% slower..
braking makes a big difference
Lich King but braking makes you slower. If anything take the brakes off! Remember, no brakes no mistakes
Actually it just occurred to me that if you keep everything oiled and maintained a bike like that could be the even better option compared to citybikes etc; especially compared in terms of speed. +If bought cheaply you can modify it yourself without feeling any guilt or anything... I could just ride everywhere that I need to go without too much of an inconvenience, fairly quickly (especially around town), cheaply & I'm doing something good for my health while heaving fun... I need to look into that. I love the minimalism.
@@lichking3711 Indeed, but you can replace the break pads with better ones for a much better braking experience, also you could probably tune/adjust those brakes a bit better as well.
Sure it still won't 100% match the braking performance of the Superbike but I reckon it can get quite close.
My question is if you swap the brakes over to something more akin to the superbikes, swapped wheels and tires and then increased the number of gears to be better geared: first how much would that cost, and second how much would that narrow the gap? If you can get 4 or 5% between then then you have a chance of making the difference in skill or training. I'd bet its completely possible to not pay anywhere near as much as the expensive bike and yet still compete with it.
Matt's Beeping TT count downs were pretty damn on point.
I've been riding a £65 Ebay Raleigh R100 as a daily bike for a few months now. It does the job but the main thing for me is my peace of mind locking it up in town for hours. If I had that Canyon I'd be terrified leaving it anywhere.
same they left out the main detail, it may have 100% more stopping distance @45km/hr, but I never go over 15-20, far too dangerous on city roads/pavements. Also the 'cheap bike' is 100% cheaper, I'd never leave the £1k one anywhere I had a piece of shit £40 bike and it still got kicked in while locked up, if they can't steal it they'll break it
@@fisty539 It's been a year since i made that comment and I'm still riding around on my R100 daily. My mate has had two bikes stolen in London in that time.
My dad was a bicycle master builder and shop owner, with 50+ years of experience.
I raced for the first time when I was only 10, and the last time when I was 20 (Motorcycles became more atractive at that time),
I always had two bikes for the road: one for training up to 5 days a week, custom regular steel tubing frame, steel rim 28x1 5/8 wheels with clincher tyres. I think it was a 10 speed.
My racing only bike setup was: tubular tyres, Reynolds 531 tubing, 12 speed, mostly Campagnolo Super Record series.
All in all, the racing one was barely over 9kgs and the trainer was nearly 13.
And it made a huge difference. To jump on the lighter bike on race days, was not only a pleasure, but also helped to achieve the best results possible.
So I have to agree, if you are going to race, start small (and cheap) and work your way up, you will see a difference. But if you only want the bike for weekend outings with your friends or to stay fit, your regular off the shelf mid priced bike will do just fine, if not better.
My new MTB is 29 er, Carrera Sulcatto, my mate (money no object) has a cube road bike, we went for a spin, him on his cube, me on my Raleigh Ritmo! Absolutely trounced him on the hills....shows doesnt matter what you have, is what you do with it!
Really i want one bici but low price how much i live in spain
I am using that cheap bike this time. I cycle with it almost 900km. I am not from a rich family, i bought it using my money that i save from money my mom gave to me for eat at school. My dreams is to buy one of superbike and become a profesional track cyclist. From my opinion, cheap bike or super bike its all same. The differences is how you ride it and how strong is your spirit. (Sorry for bad english, i am from malaysia) peace.
Good luck with your dream
I think you just wrote the best thing I read all day. :)
Iman Hakimi same here bro, but hey! its all about our love for the sport :)
Kill em dead bro!
Iman Hakimi if 2 person has the same strength and spirit, the one with more expensive bike will win, sorry but it's not the same, especially at professional level
Exactly what I needed to know "Its doesnt hurt any less, you just go faster"
It's a LIE. The geometrics of your bicycle are the most important part of your bike. Lets remember these two idiots rode the original Tour De France on original bikes. They really aren't good at gettint the nuances. I rode 1000 bikes, got myself sized and into a my first 5000 bike and it was like the bike was riding itself. So easy to ride and so much more performance. Mostly though because it was setup for me, my body didn't seize up all over.
These two missed the point of the better bike. It's meant for people who ride A LOT. It's not a bike for people who ride to the store for a bag of milk and frown if their breathing gets a little labored while they do it.
It's hurts more when your friends disappear up a hill and two old ladies nattering in a front garden know you're the "unfit one" as you pant "hello!" with the full knowledge they know you're unfit
8:39 you can really see how much time, love and effort he put in the good calibration of the calipers. Any Shimano dual-pivot brakes with good KoolStop Pads will give you plenty of stopping power for a fraction of the costs.
You should do a race: Ride 5km in downtown London. Lock bike up outside overnight. Ride 5km Back.... I think the cheap bike would be faster by well, an infinite amount of time...
Haha! It's funny because I saw "someone" park a Cervelo S5 at the train station every day for a whole month last year. With a cheap lock! And it never got stolen!
It just so happens that the S5 just makes it across the $5000 value mark, and that means that no thief is interested in stealing it, because it would carry a higher penalty in court. Especially considering that it was almost certainly lojacked by the police.
At 90 pounds on Ebay, I think that cheap bike has already been stolen once.
Even if the bike is still there it might be damaged by careless people locking their bike next to it...
I had a $700+ bike next to a friends ~$90 bike; his was stolen.
I want to see the $900 v. The $3,000.00 bike. Maybe not cheap vs expensive but affordable quality vs expensive. Us riders have a different idea of a cheap bike.
Yes please
This when
To all the guys climbing hills on 12 kg bikes, just think about the training benefits over guys on lighter bikes. Your absolute power and fitness are most certainly better.
And it also freaks 'em out when you're riding a heavier bike and singing in the rain like Gene Kelly.
JP Hovi yeah!!!
Heavier bike does not equal better training unless ur trying to keep up with stronger cycling mates.
Si explained this in a few videos and it made quite a bit of sense.
If you can sustain 300 Watts over a 20min ride on a cheap bike, than you can sustain only 300 Watts on a super bike again... A watt is a watt...! No difference in power...
i only ride mountain bikes on the roads....everyyime then when I jump on my friends road bike.....I murder the roads....😁😁😎
I think going with a cheap bike for as long as possible is better for your wallet and fitness. I feel more motivated to put out more power to keep the same speed as fellow riders, and I end up improving more than I would with a super bike.
One of the comments below says it best: "Lose 10 pounds, then you'll have a faster bike!"
🤣
@@brianutley5636 I tried and I gained more weight.
Just read that 😂😂😂
I weight 160 all leg muscles. And ride 3 hours a day every day. Im fucking jacked
LMAO!!🤣
90 pounds for that bike !! That's an amazing deal !
I bought my bike 90€ too, and i'm so happy with it, i think it was a 1000€ bike when it was new... It's 20years old but the original owner cared for it like 110% he gave me 2 saddles, an extra wheel, ... when i went to buy the bike the guy was gone for a last goodbye ride with his bike... We spent 2 hours talking. That was amazing.
irlrp you should visit him
Why did he sell his bike?
leslie graham dude he meant he cared for it extremely well, people say “I put 110% effort into that ride” or use as he used it “cared for 110%” because the person put extra care into keeping the bike new. You obviously have never heard of figurative expressions and sound very young which explain why you may not have heard that term.
Learn basic English and basic math. You don't know much either.
Anyone who is familiar with basic English knows the definition of hyperbole.
If you put descent tires on the cheap bike you could have controlled for rolling resistance. Multiple sites claim 15-20 watts per wheel with bad tires, and this could account for most of those time gaps.
The trouble with being a keen cyclist is you can’t hold up 11kg with one arm 😁
Fun Video boys. With the cheap bike I also could afford two fabulous vacations with a lifetime of memories and get fitter. Riding bliss doesn't come from the bike. It comes from the activity.
Indeed. For the difference you could buy a home trainer, Elite Rampa or Kickr, and ride it even more often outdoors and indoors than the expensive one.
Dean Henthorn what about the cyclist? I have two bikes. One cheap. One super. The cheap does some things better than the super. For example, Parts and light-weight
Matt always cheers me up when he clips in in his first try and he always gets so happy, what a lad
Gotta enjoy the simple things in life :-)
rok hudoklin you talk funny
Canyon Aeroad price: Around 7000 British pounds(9200 USD)
Raleigh: 90 GBP(118 USD)
Total Differnce in cost: 6910 GBP or 9115 USD.
Spend that money saved on
1) 2000 GBP wheels or 2600 USD (Mavic Cosmic Ultimate or Campagnolo Bora Ultra 50.
2) 900 GBP or 1200 USD on a Carbon stem, handelbar, seatpost.
3) 1100 GBP or 1500 USD on a Dura Ace Mechanical Groupset.
All components could be bought for cheaper from ebay (Used)
Total: 4090 GBP or 5395 USD for a top notch bike vs almost 7000 GBP or 9200 (Almost Double) for a new Canyon.
I know I will get blasted for used a raleigh frame with ultra high quality components.
Thanks for the like!
Cheers!
That not but I would not compare an old standard bike vs a new superbike. They both need to be new.
"The bike doesn't feel that different"
I think that is the conclusion of the review.
The best bike is always the one you have
Wholesome
True that
I like my ebay Eurobike xc550
Thinking about amateur racing career years ago on the cheap one and looking at the older Campa Record on my wall with some dust to clean, I would even say, the best one is the one you ride.
I would like that cheap bike he has. There are no used bikes in my area for sale except over priced very damaged department store bikes. My Walmart huffy was totaled years ago and I can’t even replace it because I broke. So no bike for long time.
👀 Would be interesting to see a £1000 carbon bike vs a £7000 one?!?! (But with the same gear ratios)
tarmacsurfers yeah! That would be a proper comparison.
Yeah!!! Wanna see that!!!
or same frameset with diferent wheels and groupsets. cheapest bike in range vs the most expensive.
cerebellum true actually, better finishing kit...
Or 15k bike
.. bought a Raleigh SuperCourse in 1970. Rode often and included a West Coast ride of 1500 miles. It still worked fine, with regular maintenance, until 2017 when i finally sold it. Might not be as fast as a superbike, however it got me anywhere i wanted to go for 47 years, at a fraction of the cost !!
waveriderz that is awesome to hear
Well that sort of takes the piss out of my 1975 Raleigh Super Grand Prix, which sits against the wall behind me as I type this. Acquired custom wheels way back then, and replaced bits and pieces as they wore out, but it's largely the same bike. That's a lot of transporation for probably $20-$30 a year. Fun fact: the bike is now a rarity - I could sell it today for about what I paid for it. :-)
Walter Mills ...i might think differently if i was a racer, however like most of us i enjoy just getting out there. Not worrying about the cost of repairs or anyone trying to rip a bike off. Enjoy life, it's pretty short, yes?
waveriderz you shuld had kept it because it is a vintage bike
I still have my Carlton Criterium, it's had three chains, numerous brake blocks, still the same saddle, and it's as comfortable as the Cannondale Supr Six 105 I borrowed for a summer when I stripped the Carlton down to blast and repaint the frame. Yes the Cannondale was quick, but I was very pleased when I got back on the Carlton.
This makes me feel kind of better for not being able to keep up with other local cyclists, when I see them riding bikes that cost around 2000-5000€ and I'm on one that costed 250€ lol
on my $80 single speed I have the luxury of literally never being overtaken by somebody on a shittier bike -- and if/when it happens I'll be proud of them, haha
lol same, I'd take my £200 aluminium, 18 gear, v-brake over a £1k carbon fibre, 21 gear, disk break any day, I use it for like maybe 1-2 miles/day. And I've seen these £1k just get smashed to pieces coz if they can't steal it they'll break it. Always lock up next to a fancy bike
It is more of your legs than the bike
Don't make the mistake I made when I bought my first road bike, I spent 1k on a carbon roadbike, wrecked it in a few months and spent 300 quid on a used well maintained alloy bike with near/equal spec to the carbon bike and I found the alloy bike to be more comfortable, quieter, more fun to play around on and much easier to push to the limits, only buy a carbon racer if you want to compete, otherwise stick with alloy or even a finely crafted steel frame!
seanvityaz steel is real dude! The comfort steel brings is worth every gram of weight in my book.
thats true, i have two bikes, a carbon trek madone 3 and a alum domane 2, both with shimano 105 11sp, and my best times are with the alloy bike!, found it more stiff and confortable, weird but true.
What? What did you do to wreck the carbon frame? I spent 1.5k on mine and 50,000 km later it's still completely fine. Nothing at all fragile about Carbon.
seanvityaz literally did that word for word: crashed into stone wall and shattered four parts of the frame! Now got an alloy!
Agreed, I have spent most of my cycling life on aluminium. I got a carbon bike and it cracked in 4 months. Peace of rubbish. Now upgrading to Titanium, all the advantages of carbon with non of the problems.
"It's not about the bike, it's about the drugs..." Lance Armstrong
🤣
Whether cheap or expensive, street bikers are arseholes nonetheless.
If Lance in France Wearing Stretchy Pants had both of his nugs removed, would that leave more room on the seat for faster pedaling as they're not in the way?
The sad missrepresentation of poor Lances legacy...
@@seangarrison7942 Was it not he who set his legacy?
I think the big conclusion is ONLY 7.1% IN THE TIME TRIAL, with a cheap bike that has a longer head tube (lesser aero position).
This is the proof that for the average Joe who doesn't do time trial competitions, all this "aero" marketing BS is a big waist of 💰.
And notice how they don't talk about it in the video to avoid frustrating the sponsors.
As Eddy Merckx use to say: "don't buy upgrades, ride up grades".
Sylvain Michaud nailed it! These guys love to insist spending rich man levels of cash is worth it for average consumers.
I mean, its a pretty massive difference, just like a road bike vs mtb on the road... The difference is, are you wanting to pay 70x more? If yes, there you go. If not, turns out a $100 used bike isn't too bad after you replace that nasty bar tape.
Ian Benedict it's still the difference between winning or not if you're racing
One bike you keep up with your pack, have a great ride, the other you bonk half way through and are left twisting in the wind after being dropped hard. Long way home...
But 7% faster is a ludicrous amount if you are racing your hardest and simply don't have the cash to keep up with the Joneses.
I'd love to see another version where you take the cheap frame bike and upgrade it: stick an 11sp group on it and similar carbon wheels (though rim brake of course) and try again. As in: is it better to spend $7,000 on a new bike or $3,000 on upgades?
As a long time rider of a cheap bike, all I can say Peter is that would be like putting lipstick on a pig. The frame is the heart and soul of the machine. Cheap bike frames are just that. I rode my cheap bike again today to the YMCA for a leg workout. It is a hilly 14 mile trip one way. I kept my HR in Zone 3 and enjoyed the experience. The difference is about 3 mph on my average speed. Who cares about that? So 45 min. one way trip on my road bike, 54 min. on my cheap bike.
i think this is exactly the thing they should suggest for riders. where's the point of diminishing return? Yes the $100 bike is 10-15% worse, but if you spend $2k you'll probably get within 1-2% performance of the $10,000 bike.
Just for the interested ones among us, I calculated the braking Gs from the test, assuming they were accurate with the 40-0 km/h and the measurements. The cheap bike only slowed down at about 0.6 Gs, which is similar to a road car on snow with studded winter tyres. The super bike slowed down at about 1.16-1.17 Gs, which is similar to a modern road car on dry tarmac with normal summer tyres. Would be interesting to see if there exist grippier tyres (softer compound, wider perhaps?) for the bikes, and see if they could match the top crop of modern sports cars on the best rubber, capable of braking Gs in the vicinity of 1.5+ Gs.
That and the cheaper bike had v-brakes instead of discs.
@Advanced Driving Locking the front wheel is always my biggest nightmare. I've had it happen a couple of times in slippery conditions, and the front just disappears from underneath the bike...
Amogus
Sus
Light is faster, obviously, But once you get to 9Kg "affordable" bikes, is it worth it to pay MANY thousands of dollar more to get it in the 7Kg range, specially if your are not a pro? It is becoming a sort of obsession and people are whiling to pay ridiculous prices for each gram. Cycling manufacturers, of course, are thrilled with this insane behavior, and accordingly they make insane profits.
Giutubo Spatubo I suppose it might be, if (a) you wouldn’t notice several grand and (b) you don’t have a couple of kilos bodyweight to drop.
The weight of a bicycle is generally overrated and overstated. On a perfectly flat course, weight makes almost no difference. The 'almost' exists because of the inertia of the bicycle, which makes acceleration lower for the same force output, and reduces speed losses due to wind, tyre, and mechanical resistances. Hence, it is worse when you are starting, and better once you are at speed. However, we must remember that the weight difference between bicycles is a small fraction of the inertia of the rider. The difference between an entry-level bicycle and a top-of-the-line bicycle is a few bidons of fluid.
On a hilly or mountainous course, by contrast, a small weight difference does have a significant effect on the rider over the length of a course, since the force output required on an incline must additionally account for some portion (or 'component') of the mass of the bicycle. There is no reciprocal gain on the other side of the hill, however, because objects fall at equal rates regardless of weight. As above, only the inertial advantage can be taken into account.
Thus, the weight of a bicycle is particularly important for specialist hill climbers, and similarly so for sprinters (although other factors such as stiffness are more critical) but less so for all-round classics riders.
I would always opt for the 80-gram heavier saddle to ensure that I could endure the whole race with my nether region intact, and sacrifice the negligible difference that it made to my hill climbing and acceleration.
I was in an A grade race and coming into the final 5km when I noticed a guy on one of the cheapest road bikes you can buy. Over the last 2kms he pulled away on a hill and ended up beating all the guys on 10k plus bikes....
I'd just buy a commuter bike and do some wheelies with it rather than having to use a race bike
I don't know Kgs from clown shoes but my mid-90s Cannondale weighs only a couple pounds more than the Specialized bikes the students I rode across Texas with were riding, and cost a thousand bucks less. I didn't notice a thousand bucks difference in our riding. But, if you have that kind of jack to spend, go for it, and enjoy your riding. In the end, it doesn't much matter if you are having fun riding, does it?
Serious cyclist always have more than one bicycle.... if you ever want to start cycling my best advice is start with that kind of cheap bike... believe me even when you already have an expensive one it will still be the one you ride most because heavier and harder to ride bicycle is best for training... save the expensive one for wear and tear and only use it for important rides.
This is what I'm doing. I haven't ridden a bike since I was a young teenager (20 years ago!) so it feels like I'm starting to learn to ride almost from scratch. I'm able to familiarise myself with all the parts and make sure I know how to adjust them without fear of ruining something expensive. It's hefty steel construction, but I'll only be riding on flat road for a good while.
9mmAlpha f
Spot on sir. I save my Pinarello Razha with Zipp 202 wheels for competitive rides and train on a heavier Specialized Allez.
I rode my 100 dollar bike every week 40km, and after a year, I still love that.
This answered many questions I have been asking for years. Magic!Thank you.
I would have loved to have seen this on a realistic "cheap" bike. An entry level road racing bike is about £500-£1000. Totally depends on if you are going to be racing or trying to be King of Strava lol
King of strava 😂
The best bicycle is the one you look forward to riding every day.
Amen to that Gordon!
A mountain bike?
Chuck Norris doesn't ride mountain bikes... he makes bikes out of mountains.
But that would mean no one like there bike
Gordon Moat agree
I just got into cycling. I can't imagine spending that much for a bike, but it's been incredibly fun for my cheap bike. It'd be a dream to ride a bike like that someday, but for now i'm enjoying what i have. Plus I don't have to run the risk of getting that type of bike stolen.
and trust it hurts when u scracth or fall on it
Biking is for fun mainly so dpnt spend too much if you are not going pro
There's a lot to be said for not having to worry about a crash destroying your 5k bike. I tend to really baby expensive bikes and that takes the fun out of it.
Cycling is pure happiness
Amen
#truth
Tis.
I believe in this
@@hans6304 yes I know how you feel it's absolutely wonderful isn't it cannot agree with you more enjoy your cycling hope you get some lovely weather where you are thank you for your reply
Excellent video and very informative. Conclusions were completely unsurprising, but very encouraging that a sub-£100 bike can hold up relatively well against a multi-thousand pound machine. I also found the presenter chemistry very good, with the apparent age-gap adding an interesting dimension that's very relevant to the sport. Subscribed.
Welcome to GCN! Cheers S!
My two favourite things in life are library and bicycle. They both move people forward without wasting anything.
The cheap bike won't be a theft target.
Yup
Cheap bike or not.......the thieving beggars don’t care
ANY bike would be a potential theft target. Perhaps a lot less of a target than a superbike but a target nonetheless
Errr thieves will steal anything not bolted down
@@hyakkimarufluff534 77
Buy the £90 bike, replace the brake calipers, tyres and wheels, for a fraction of the price of the "superbike" you'd be very close in performance. You'd lose weight, gain both aero and braking, and still be well under £300.
It would be interesting to take the £90 bike, spend £300 on improvements and then see how much of the difference in made up. I would guess at least 50% of the difference.
Only problem there is that you'd probably be better off buying a new bike for 300 that came with those components.
mad thumbs Not always. 90% of the time it will be better to custome your bike rather than bike one from the house seller. I bought mine and it was a really cheap one, fixed bike, only 200 euros and I spent around another 150 on improvements and I can fairly say that the difference between my friends bike that is Ashley a F expensive bike are not really big. We ride together here in Madrid like F crazy and I'm always by his side, and he is nuts.
So, customs bikes are better 90% of the time.
Spot on, Big Foz. It's a silly test because the cheap bike is ridiculously too cheap and heavy, with touring tyres and probably the worst brakes they could find. Is the Raleigh steel? 11.8kg? WFT? There are very cheap alu bikes that are about 9kg, with better tyres and brakes which would've been a better comparison. They might was well have used a hybrid or flat-bar touring bike
The lighter the frame the faster the bike, especially uphill. The only way you'd get anything worthwhile for £300 would be with all second-hand parts. I've had from budget to £7k bikes and the 7k is a fucking joy to ride, wouldn't sell it for 10.
In a sense, if you already own a Raleigh, you can just swap in a Shimano 105 groupset, a decent set of Chinese carbon wheels and nice racing tires. You will achieve almost identical result.
And upgrade the brakes...
105 Brakes are pretty good and would be included with a 105 groupset. Even just a pad change would make a big difference.
Good point!
I ride a Cannondale cad4 frame from 1995. It's 22 lbs. I'm super happy with it but I wonder what the best bang for the buck improvment I could make is? Carbon wheels is what I'm thinking..anyone care to suggest anything? A bigger engine is what I want the most....im working on it!! Lol
I had disc brakes. I crashed that bike, and now have 105s. Discs are WAY better. I had to dial my riding back a lot.
This was a fantastic video - from production quality to the informative content. Very compelling, real and understanding. Keep up the great work!
CAADX 105 SE 2020
Now compare 1000$ Shimano 105 Bike with 10000$ Shimano Dura Ace Di2 bike with power meter and tell us average power consumption in 40 km/h. (I bet it wouldn't be more than %5)
Lazeran me too but I can’t see any manufacturer agreeing to the test and if GCN did it they probably wouldn’t be welcome at too many trade shows 😁
30km/h is real World
105 for the win!
that would be a real value/pris killer!
For a serious roadie, it's often not though. On the flats, going 35kph isn't too hard for someone who trains actively and to reach an average speed of over 30kph, you're gonna be going 35 for a lot of the time.
The big result here is the amount of bike you can get for 90 quid 👍
I'd be happy with that bike and just replace the bar tape.
Simon Bradley Add a half decent set of wheels and a better groupset and you've got a pretty decent ride for under £500!
Ive had several sub £100 roadies and never had a brand new more expensive bike, typically I'll change the gear/brake cables and put decent tyres on and just go out and ride! for a weekend toy I don't see the point spending any more, if it suits an individuals needs you can get a lot of bike on a budget!
It's nuts really
Wow, this comments section is full of retards who think biking has something to do with speed or fitness. It is in these assumptions they miss the true import of a light, expensive bike. SO SAD!
"Cheap Bike vs Super Bike | What's the Difference?"
Price.
Jainil Ajmera nop
this too
Price is right, unless you race
Just shows the more money you have the less fit you need to be to compete. Worth the purchase for events if you are a competing athlete. So many people spend this money on their commuter as they think it makes them better.
Haha|
When I started with racebikes almost 20 years ago, it was on a Peugeot Aspin 14 with downtube shifters (Shimano 105) and 20mm tyres. A true classic. I purchased it in a relatively worn out shape on eBay and restored it. AFAIK it was a steel frame, but despite its shortcomings, I loved that beast to bits. Climbing hills out of the saddle using big gears make it bend like rubber (I weigh around 100 kgs @ 1,96m) and it felt a bit wobbly over 65 km/h in descends. Nevertheless it was great fun riding it. An accident separated us after 4 years.
After that, in Jan 2007, I bought a new Cannondale CAAD5 105 (2x10) with WHR 550 wheels. I had no idea then how different a bike could possibly feel. It is extremely stiff, lightweight (8.7 kgs with a 63cm frame) and very stable in fast descends. Over 75-80 km/h it feels a bit nervous but I'm not quite sure if that's just me or the bike. The wheels are OK but certinly not Shimano's finest. I still have it to this day even though I ride much less these days. I don't think I'll ever sell it. It's a real beauty in red with its black wheels. Sometimes I just look at it with a smile on my face... :-)
Interesting Video lads, how about a part 2 where you upgrade the Raleigh with decent B-Bracket, faster tyres, reasonable quality ali wheels, new chain, new pedals (with power meter for science), fresh cables,new brake blocks. do something with bars/ position. add the 'upgrade components in stages and retest (sorry Si) each time. Now THAT would be really interesting
Components cost far more than the bike itself.
I agree. At least replace the wheel set!
Which is the fist bike to get stolen. The expensive bike wins this one too.
In 1990, when I purchased my Bianchi, I thought it was safe because of the puke-green colour. Unfortunately, some young kid in the bike shop was really excited and said I was lucky to buy that bike. I spent three days making the bike ugly, taking off everything that said Bianchi, and turning it into "supercycle" complete with lettering. I think that is a Canadian brand several tiers below Raleigh. I still have the bike.
u dont leave out the expensive bike.
LSanti well... how many people actually know an expensive bike from a cheap one? I dont:/....
What a racist.
@Michael please never breed
It all depends want you want the bike for as well, if you want to ride out with a competive road bike group then you might need a superbike, if you want a daily ride and a run out on your own for fitness then most bikes would be sufficient
Spot on pal 👍👌
yeah I have some sort of half mountain bike half road bike thing that I bought years ago, Have been doing a 30 min rid each weekday to build up some fitness again. Its works perfectly, Im still doing 9km in 30 mins which isnt bad for someone unfit like me! lol
I got an old Cannondale M700 from the early to mid 90s. Biggest complaint is no mounting points for disc brakes and sourcing replacements parts is a bit of a pain.
i use an old mtb from my dad and thats all i need
I would love to see a follow up of upgrading a cheap bike into a better bike
Nice idea!
I like the idea of the test but what I find unfair is that the cheap bike is also a used bike. I think it would have told us more if they'd compared a freshly bought cheap bike with all components still in great condition and then compared it with their sponsored super bike. But no matter, I don't find the numbers that shocking. It's the different between a racing bike and an everyday bike.
The Berlinickerin I
Not just used, but much older aswell..
Not much difference in performance actually. Cycling is becoming increasingly commercialised
Enjoy the experience irrespective of bike type
Avoid blowing a hole in your pocket!!
a better comparison would be $1000-2000 (where most fairly serious but still cash-strapped riders go to), and a $6000-10000 bike (where "high end" bikes reside, for pros, or people who can afford it).
that would be much better. ie, a semi aero bike with something like 105 or rival, like the Specialized Allez, vs an actual aero bike, or a serious climbing bike, like the s-works tarmac or venge.
I stole my bike for free
Ben Cohen Great comment
Sure. But what company that makes one for 10k wants to have them do that? The luxury bikes are usually just that - luxury. They sell on name brand, aesthetics, recognition, personal preference.... not on performance per se.
hey man that was the whole point of my comment, so you can compare an actual value bike to what most would call a bling bike, and see if the extra thousands of dollars actually get you anything. And I'm sure quite a few brands would want GCN telling their million plus viewers that the expensive bike actually is faster. It was just an idea.
I'm only pointing out that if the data is not in their favor, it's not great and helps their competitors. A lot of people make purchases based on $/performance ratios (just look at the aero market). Nothing personal, only pointing out the reasons why your idea may not have happened.
The lighter and more streamlined wallet probably helps too.
Actually since you're wondering the differences would be wasted on you.
XD;!!!
Every time I hear talk about bike weight I’m like “I need to lose 20 lbs”...
In kg...?
@@ilmaestro5893 about 9kg lol
@@Ben59910 thank you arancina chi pedi ❤
@@ilmaestro5893 What does that mean?
@@Ben59910 i love you ❤ in arabic
Id love to see the raleigh get upgrades and be tested again
This is the GCN video that I've been waiting for for like 2 years.
Helicase21 Yes very right.
I’ve been bombing GCN with this request the last two years!!!
Same
Doubleteverything oaLl2
Helicase2
On the cheap bike you have to push more weight around = gain strength + keep wallet safe.
Izahdnb also means you have to drink more to keep hydrated too on the cheapo bike.
And build endurance, because it is slower.
The main point is that IF you are competing, it does make a difference. If you are not and you are riding for fitness only or the occasional ride with a group it doesn't really matter. I would point out the one area where that is not true, the braking. If you are in a pace line with a group the cheap bike is a risk to the group as your stopping distance is significantly longer. (I would not want you behind me, even if you are Greg Lemond ) because you cannot overcome physics. What is brilliant about this review is they made the comparison of a Soros equipped bike (entry level) with disks would be a strong contender for a race off. The great part of this review is they used a very capable and vastly different platform on purpose and they were still pretty close on the numbers. Ride comfort is what matters most for long rides, and fit is the key, I have passed up a lot of riders on long distance rides that were on 3K+ bikes, with my 105 group K2 :o)
We were just trolling. To be honest I would not have minded paying a lot for a quality bike except bike theft are high, and I don't like the idea of a 15k$+ pile of money sitting outside barely secured by the equivalent of a bar of steel.
By that logic... push more weight around-keep wallet safe=gain strength. So buy a very expensive bike and add weights to it
Love the channel guys getting into cycling and your videos have been informative and fun!
the cheap bike wasn t so bad acctually what did you say 90 pounds, i would buy it.
90 pounds was the cost
So glad you cleared that up. I pondering noway he is riding a 90lb bike LOL
Izumi Culture facts
"a £90 bike can become a £200 bike if you invest £110 into it"
Me too.
I'm amazed at how much you get for so little money. We all know that expensive is better. But it's very rarely so much better as to justify the cost.
I say just overpower the limitations of the cheap bike with brute force.
Having just got rid of all my bikes, and then losing my job (thanks corona) I will be going from 1 extreme to the other - although the increased demand in bikes has sucked up a lot of the good second hand bikes and bargains.
Makes me feel better watching this though.
Particularly when you realise corona is a scam to ruin the economy in preparation for the satanic jesuit new world order. Most people are believing the lie.
Toxic.com
Questioningcovid.com
Peter Burton ‘Realise’....your comment was doomed from that point onward..
@@peterburton3095 lmao ok buddy
For anyone wondering, the Raleigh specifically looks to be a 2011 Raleigh Race 16. Parts list as follows:
Shimano 2300 Derailleurs/Shifters (low end stuff, not even given a word name)
Aluminum frame w/ steel fork
Miranda 50/34 Chainrings
12-25 cassette
"Alloy Caliper Brakes"
"Deep Section Wheels" w/ 28mm tires.
All around a fairly low end bike, but still a fair step up over a GMC Denali or that black\green thing Walmart's selling now (or your country's equivalent). It'd make a decent college commuter or city grocery getter, being cheap and reasonably alright. Won't have to worry as much about theft. I know I wouldn't be as upset about my £100 bike being stolen if it was that vs a £7500 bike.
Seems like the bike they used got an 11-30T cassette though. Also, 2300 was the immediate precursor to Claris 2400.
Woah that’s a Raleigh big difference!
ha!
Lol
Get out of here Dad. :P :D
Patrick Sheard clever !
Holy shit
You just one yourself a Raleigh great bike with that comment
I've known alot of cyclists. I've been saying it for decades. The motor makes the biggest difference.
I'm not here to split hairs.
Amen to that! It is not the bike that is fast. It is the rider.
When I want to ride fast... I ride my motorcycle. When I want to workout, I ride my bicycle.
I don't race, I ride for fitness, so my 8kg carbon-frame/Ultegra-equipped mid-range bike gives me a slightly better workout than a superlight top-end bike would. What I have found most effective, particularly for climbing, is the cost-free measure of maintaining a body weight of 66kg at a height of 1.82 metres. In late-middle-age it ain't easy, but it's doable.
Hey we're the exact same dimensions. It's amazing. These guys tell me I need to shell out a grand for a bike that will be 4 kg lighter. I tell them to dump one of their water bottles and lay off the cookies and you just saved a grand.
Cory Lewandowski LOL
Cary Cotterman Why would you get a carbon bike for fitness? Especially when a steel frame is cheaper, more comfortable, and a better workout.
A decent, lightweight wheelset (~1400g) will transform most low to mid-range bikes IMO
And good tyres
That’s a lot of bike for 90$. I’d say that It’s the overall winner.
Thank you. I am actually in the process of purchasing my first road bike; although it won't be anytime soon because of the bike shortage. I don't plan on spending much on my first road bike though, but I will make sure I get some good breaks if I get into some serious cycling!
Bottomline...unless someone is sponsoring and PAYING you to ride, stick with the cheaper bike that provides 95+% of the performance for a mere fraction of the price.
I am reading comments about this being an ad for Canyon and I see it differently--this is an ad, in my opinion, for how much bike you can buy for so little and for how well a used bike can actually perform. And the Raleigh with better wheels and brakes, well, complete bliss, I think, and time for fisticuffs should a Canyon try to ease past, at least for those of us who don't like being overtaken. Such fun and pain, too.
This is not a fair comparison.
Get a new cheap one with tiagra or sora, and good tyres (cheap to replace), and identical fit in both (handlebar height). Difference would be small!
If you consider a bike with 105 or campy centaur/veloce, then theres great performance!
the problem with expensive bikes is, that they get stolen.
that's bs.. evry bike gets stolen if it's owner is an imbecile... i have 2 bikes, one with tiagra and one with ultegra and i NEVER let any of them outside to be stolen.
@@georgestate9384 not everyone has the luxury of being able to take their bike inside with them mr genius.
@@torianc9195 if puting your bike inside is a luxury, just leave it outside;) and i;l look for it on ebay or wherever else.. ..PS:.. it's a fucking bike, not a truck ;).
@george state you sound exceptionally stupid. That’s what I expect from UA-cam savants though.
@@torianc9195 not more stupid than the one who rather leave his bike outside and have it stolen than bring it inside. ..if you want to spread your stupidity, do it in your own house, in the toilet.
Don't know why I'm watching this, I don't even ride or have a bike lol.
Made me giggle
Get one!
svfutbol20 planning to buy merida reacto 500 .. 9.50 kg full ultegra .. what you think
Hahahaha
@@7amid- Never heard of that brand, but I've been eyeing stuff from Ribble lately, you get a lot for your money. I think the only downside is that you have to wait for it to be built.
I think Si's shorts might have been wearing its own aero TT helmet.
both are great for your health
Cycling puts pressure on the arteries and nerves that supply the penis and testicles so no thanks, I will stick to trail running and xc skiing.
But one is better for your wallet 😂😂😂
😂😂
Fox Blue River Wheres the research that confirmed that?
@@juiceski30 Trail running and xc skiing lowers your testosteron levels and increases oestrogene. What happens next is not something you want to know.
Me watching this while owning the same Raleigh: 👁👄👁
the good news is 10% uphill and 7% on the flat means road cycling is NOT exclusive it's pretty much open to anyone, even poor people can get into it just fine with a few hundred squid. Unlike some other sports
Really great point Goriaas!
10% difference in performance for about 6k€ more?
10% on clibs and only 7% on the flat.
And I think a decent 1000$ bike would close the gap by half or more of what it currently is
10% sounds nothing, but it's one minute difference for 2km. Think that you go for 30km race, it'll be 15 min difference, which is long enough time to be 1st place or last place
sure but for a flat daily commute(their test showed a 7% difference on flat terrain) of say 8km at say an average 30(18.5mph, doable for most people on a road bike)kmh you'd save exactly 1 minute.
It's not nothing, but it doesn't justify buying a 12000$ bike over a 200$ one
10% difference in performance for about 6k€ more when you are not even in any race or competition (for 99% cyclist) :)
Goriaas some open tubs and second hand ttbars would probably do it sub 100 quid
Why not make this a reasonable review and get one new 500€ bike as the "cheap" option and a 10 year old used high quality bike for 400-500€? And a new 1000-1500€ bike for comparison. Bet you'd see much less difference. Only very few people that are really getting into road cycling will buy a bike like the Raleigh that has been fairly cheap even when it was brand new.
Not true. I love cycling but sadly due to 2 bikes been stolen (even in my shed with chains) and a low income I cannot afford grand bikes. I just bought a 2nd hand Gaint Avail 5 2015 at £150 so I think that would be a better comparison.
We are not all made of money haha
i love this channel :) i am a newbie here in the philippines and i am learning a lot from this channel :) thank you so much
Sod the comparison.....MATT CLIPPED IN 1st TIME!!!!!!!
This is unbelievable!!!! 😀
Did it twice too
They had to film that many times, that Raleigh was new when they started.
JMise 😂😂😂
TOMI HENRIK JOHANNES SAARANEN I know. I spat my brew out ☕️ 💨
You should make a video to buy parts to improve the cheap bike.
This is a very good idea. Do comparisons across the variety of upgrades (even try buying used stuff?) and see just how much "superbike" you can get within a budget, provided you're doing the labour yourself.
Also a comparison between old bike new wheels vs new bike old wheels
Exactly - all kinds of parts can be swapped out, so what is actually worth upgrading to and what's worth buying used?
tires (match them between the bikes, PLEASE!), brakes, and wheels. in that order. maybe match the overall gearing between the bikes, just for comparison.
That would be a fantastic video.
I just ride for the fun of it. A inexpensive bike = guilt free fun. A expensive super bike = what if I scratch it😨. What if I break it😱. What if it gets stolen😠. Worry is not fun.
Tony Rice Unless you do time trails it's bs yeah, paying thousands for a bike is silly otherwise.
*trials
Tony Rice *An inexpensive *An expensive
wisdom right here
You did not explain to him properly which is the main reason why I gave up German evening classes since grammar was avoided (the teacher was scared of frightening away the students). 'An' precedes a word starting with a vowel. Else it is 'a' that is used for words starting with a consonent.
Amazing editing and showing you guys! Keep up the hard work!
great video but would have been so much more relevant for so many of us if you compred the super bike with an entry level brand new bike (something like 9 kilos...)
That would not happen as these shoot outs are almost akin to Top Gear for the relevance
As an mtb rider all my life i have found that its entirely down to me how fast or slow the bike goes.i bought a carbon scott back in 2001 and yes it was faster and i could brake much later with hydraulic brakes.But there were days where i would go cycling and my body would just not be up to it and i would think the bike felt slower and heavier but looking back its all down to the rider.Of course when your in your early 20s you can cycle like a rocket all day but getting older no matter how expensive the bike is its still an old engine getting in it and while in your head your still as fast as you ever were the reality is your not nor will you ever be.That said riding a very expensive bike be it mtb ir road bike does put a smirk on your face, people who dont ride are shocked by how expensive parts are for bikes.If i cycled everyday it would cost more to run my mtb for the year than my car.
hmm, I can't quite put my finger on it, but something about this video has planted the idea in my subconscious that I need to go out and buy myself a medium sized bag of walnuts!
peter robinson hahahaha!
Hahahaahahahah
See (unfortunately) what you mean. Do these guys not realise they look like an advertisement for mens goolies ?
why can't they dress normally like all other bikers with the same gear or is it just the way athletes seem to like showing that the only aim of the day is to ride ride ride and F+ck it if my goolies are hanging out for all to see kind of thing.
I ride bikes but I certainly don't look as if I'm wearing babies nappies and haven't seen a lady in months.
or 3 pairs of socks
Aha. This may also be the case. So geekish that they feel the urge to make it things look like they have been blessed in that department !? LOL
I respect your final comment so much, being somebody who trains hard but hasn’t got the money for expensive bikes I really appreciate it. I have a Boardman Hybrid and a 1988 steel framed road bike and still have a hell of a lot of fun. My bikes may not be the best but I can still pass people on expensive bikes occasionally. It’s all about the ride and not so much about the bike, though of course like us all I crave that high end ultra aero carbon framed beauty that weighs no more than the mrs’ handbag 😅.