Louis, I'm a wooden boat owner. Your videos have been a godsend in the world of metal and fiberglass, watercraft. Thank you and Jamestown Distributors.
What about wetting out the wood, removing extra epoxy...laying the dynel over a tacky surface to set just long enough to prevent floating...then wet out. would that work you think? Maybe tough on the weave?
My question is this- or statement rather... Aren't you defeating the purpose of the Peelply when you're removing excess resin only to add more later? To me, the whole purpose of PeelPly is to allow you to wet out the martial thoroughly and then remove the excess once it's cured as well as leaving you with a nice flat finish. All because it is supposed to allow the excess resin to bleed through so that you have the perfect resin to cloth ratio every time. Hence the name Peelply Check into it, you'll save some material and time by the looks of it. And as coffeefish says vacuum bagging is another alternative that will save you some resin and is supposed to provide a great finished result... I say "supposed to" because I haven't tried it yet but will be soon. Awesome craftsmanship non the less! It's because of this video that I've realized that a spot on the Herreshoff I just bought was patched in dynel and not glass. Keep the videos coming!!! Thanks.
Not all peel plys are porous and if you are not vacuum bagging this method is ideal because you would need the vacuum bag pressure to really make the most of a porous peel ply.
Hey Lou, I have an old lap strake sailboat with a plywood deck. The top veneer of the plywood is cracking and opening up a bit. It's still strong enough, but I need to do something to restore it. My thought was to sand it thoroughly, apply faring compound to make it as smooth as possible, then a layer of Dynel cloth. My question is whether you think that's a good solution, and can I lay the Dynel up tight to moldings around the combing as well as the rub strip at the gunnel and not have to remove those elements so the Dynel can extend under and behind them.
Too labor intensive. Those who build airplanes and worked with glass and carbon-fiber epoxy and polyester resin matrices figured out a much less labor-intensive way of handling it: 1. Using a paint roller, coat the boat surface with a thin layer of full-strength resin. 2. Lightly saturate, but not to dripping, a frame-stretched dynel sheet using a thinner suitable to both the resin as well as dynel. 3. Lay the cloth on the boat. 4. Using rubber rollers, squeegee out all air pockets and excess resin. 5. Allow to partially harden until firm but still tacky. 6. Using another paint roller, apply another thin coat of fresh resin. Using this approach, the dynel has no excess resin on which to float. It also takes about half the time as the shipwright's approach. While a few air bubbles are introduced, they're sealed in the second layer of resin, which is more than strong enough to contain the swings in pressure due to temperature swings likely encountered during normal atmospheric use.
Why do you say glass looks easier? Never having worked with dynel, the proses looks identical. It actually looks easier then glass because it looks like it takes hard corners and edges better...
Oliver Jones Glass would be a 1 step process in my opinion while Dynel appears to be 2 steps (at least here in this video). I looked it up and found that it is helpful to bag it, thus controlling the resin. They also said "Dynel is used for adding abrasion resistance. While it does add “toughness”, Dynel has very little strength and it not a substitute for fiberglass."
Greg Green have a look at my other comment about his use of the peelply. You're correct in its use to mitigate abrasion. If he were using similar weight glass, the strength gained would be marginal.
Oliver Jones Thanks Oliver, I had read you other post and I generally agree that the use of peel ply here seems unnecessary to draw out any more resin, although it might help to lay the fabric down by stretching it tight with he tape as they did, but with so little resin added, it seems unlikely to float. Another use of peel ply is to provide an excellent surface to apply the next layers to as it leaves a microscopically ragged surface after you peel it off. From reading, I find that Dynel swells about twice the thickness with resin and is aided by vacuum bagging if a smooth, flat surface is the goal. Either way, it absorbs plenty of (heavy) resin, more than glass cloth and takes even more to fill. Also, glass adds more strength, but less abrasion resistance. I believe that if strength is needed, I would sheath in glass and use Dynel only for rub strips. Assuming the hull would not be deformed by the pressure (and it shouldn't) I would have chosen vacuum bagging as well. It would have been a 1 step process with less fabric swelling a smoother surface and more even resin saturation. Would love to hear the authors comments on this. I have plenty of (years) experience with composites but none with Dynel...so I could be missing something.
Greg Green perhaps the use of Dynel can be attributed to the characteristics of the wood it aims to protect. Glass may not flex as well if at all when it comes to expansion and contraction of the wood.
Louis, I'm a wooden boat owner. Your videos have been a godsend in the world of metal and fiberglass, watercraft. Thank you and Jamestown Distributors.
Yup, screw that...
What about wetting out the wood, removing extra epoxy...laying the dynel over a tacky surface to set just long enough to prevent floating...then wet out. would that work you think? Maybe tough on the weave?
Looking good!!!👌💯👍
My question is this- or statement rather...
Aren't you defeating the purpose of the Peelply when you're removing excess resin only to add more later?
To me, the whole purpose of PeelPly is to allow you to wet out the martial thoroughly and then remove the excess once it's cured as well as leaving you with a nice flat finish. All because it is supposed to allow the excess resin to bleed through so that you have the perfect resin to cloth ratio every time. Hence the name Peelply
Check into it, you'll save some material and time by the looks of it.
And as coffeefish says vacuum bagging is another alternative that will save you some resin and is supposed to provide a great finished result... I say "supposed to" because I haven't tried it yet but will be soon.
Awesome craftsmanship non the less!
It's because of this video that I've realized that a spot on the Herreshoff I just bought was patched in dynel and not glass.
Keep the videos coming!!! Thanks.
Not all peel plys are porous and if you are not vacuum bagging this method is ideal because you would need the vacuum bag pressure to really make the most of a porous peel ply.
Hey Lou, I have an old lap strake sailboat with a plywood deck. The top veneer of the plywood is cracking and opening up a bit. It's still strong enough, but I need to do something to restore it. My thought was to sand it thoroughly, apply faring compound to make it as smooth as possible, then a layer of Dynel cloth. My question is whether you think that's a good solution, and can I lay the Dynel up tight to moldings around the combing as well as the rub strip at the gunnel and not have to remove those elements so the Dynel can extend under and behind them.
Curious as to why you do not use a spiked epoxy resin roller to roll out the epoxy rather than a paddle.
Becasue the cloth isn't thick enough to need that. Rollers are for 1708 and CSM.
Too labor intensive. Those who build airplanes and worked with glass and carbon-fiber epoxy and polyester resin matrices figured out a much less labor-intensive way of handling it:
1. Using a paint roller, coat the boat surface with a thin layer of full-strength resin.
2. Lightly saturate, but not to dripping, a frame-stretched dynel sheet using a thinner suitable to both the resin as well as dynel.
3. Lay the cloth on the boat.
4. Using rubber rollers, squeegee out all air pockets and excess resin.
5. Allow to partially harden until firm but still tacky.
6. Using another paint roller, apply another thin coat of fresh resin.
Using this approach, the dynel has no excess resin on which to float. It also takes about half the time as the shipwright's approach. While a few air bubbles are introduced, they're sealed in the second layer of resin, which is more than strong enough to contain the swings in pressure due to temperature swings likely encountered during normal atmospheric use.
It sounds like glass is easier. Is there a reason that you choose Dynel?
Why do you say glass looks easier? Never having worked with dynel, the proses looks identical. It actually looks easier then glass because it looks like it takes hard corners and edges better...
Oliver Jones
Glass would be a 1 step process in my opinion while Dynel appears to be 2 steps (at least here in this video). I looked it up and found that it is helpful to bag it, thus controlling the resin. They also said "Dynel is used for adding abrasion resistance. While it does add “toughness”, Dynel has very little strength and it not a substitute for fiberglass."
Greg Green have a look at my other comment about his use of the peelply.
You're correct in its use to mitigate abrasion. If he were using similar weight glass, the strength gained would be marginal.
Oliver Jones
Thanks Oliver, I had read you other post and I generally agree that the use of peel ply here seems unnecessary to draw out any more resin, although it might help to lay the fabric down by stretching it tight with he tape as they did, but with so little resin added, it seems unlikely to float. Another use of peel ply is to provide an excellent surface to apply the next layers to as it leaves a microscopically ragged surface after you peel it off.
From reading, I find that Dynel swells about twice the thickness with resin and is aided by vacuum bagging if a smooth, flat surface is the goal. Either way, it absorbs plenty of (heavy) resin, more than glass cloth and takes even more to fill. Also, glass adds more strength, but less abrasion resistance. I believe that if strength is needed, I would sheath in glass and use Dynel only for rub strips.
Assuming the hull would not be deformed by the pressure (and it shouldn't) I would have chosen vacuum bagging as well. It would have been a 1 step process with less fabric swelling a smoother surface and more even resin saturation. Would love to hear the authors comments on this. I have plenty of (years) experience with composites but none with Dynel...so I could be missing something.
Greg Green perhaps the use of Dynel can be attributed to the characteristics of the wood it aims to protect. Glass may not flex as well if at all when it comes to expansion and contraction of the wood.
As one who has always used glass cloth, this looks like more trouble than its worth. I don't see the advantage
I am Joey Alvarez in Philippines, can send me an engridients of making Fiber Glass boat
Do it yourself, visit the Woodglut website and find out how.
Ugh, my work would be all wrinkly. I prefer to work with wood... no wrinkles.