You have got to be by far the best 4x4 builder on UA-cam. Nobody explains in detail that everyone can understand the way you do. You have already answered many questions I have had over the years and the channel is just getting started! Keep up the good work man!
You're very articulate in the way you explain everything. I don't know sh!t about most of what you say, but by the end of your video I feel like I understand it more clearly. Not an off road guy, but I love your channel.
Like the channel. My little tip. I use PVC to simulate control arms. Warm the PVC with propane torch push the bung in and hose clamp. Let's me cycle and check for anything unplanned for. And let's me really check link angles. Keep it up
Incredibly useful content, particularly the visual on bump steer. Learned a ton from this video and the long arms vs short arms video. Your cause and effect demonstrations make you stand out. Love the lack of unnecessary chatter.
Great video and a great hands on explanation of how this stuff works. I think more details on roll steer/flex steer would be useful because it's usually overlooked and really important. The visualization you gave when the rear axle articulates is awesome because it shows where the suspension roll axis is. In your case it's above the rear axle, so you can see the bottom of the axle "swing" left to right as it rotates. The roll axis is from the instant center of the two lower links, to the instant center of the two upper links. In other words, its a line from where the lower links converge to a point, to where the two upper links converge to a point. The point where the roll axis is directly above the center of the rear wheels is the roll center, and the angle of the roll axis is what determines roll steer. If the roll axis is sloped up towards the front of the vehicle, the axle will steer away from body roll. If the roll axis is sloped down towards the front of the vehicle, the axle will steer into body roll. If the roll axis is flat, then body roll won't affect the angle of the axle and it won't roll steer at all. This doesn't really matter much until the vehicle is going fast enough for the roll steer angles to have an effect, but at highway speeds it can be dangerous if its wrong. If the front axle steers into a turn, and the rear axle steers away, body roll will make the vehicle turn more, which will cause even more body roll and more roll steer. This is called roll oversteer and it can go bad really quickly, especially with soft springs/sway bars. The opposite of roll oversteer is roll understeer where the front axle steers away from a turn, and the rear axle steers into it. Roll understeer is much safer because body roll and roll steer are self stabilizing, but if taken to extremes it still makes handling unpredictable. Generally, 4 link suspensions should be built with as close to zero roll steer as possible without having any roll oversteer unless its used exclusively for slow speeds. Hope this helps somebody with their build! Thanks for the awesome video.
Dude finally a informative hands on explanation. My xj has all of the above shimmy and I’ve had trouble narrowing the “issue”. Mind blown *poof*. Glad to see you on your own!
Thank You! Thank You! Thank You! for including the scrub radius detail!! I have seen so many of my fellow XJ'ers not understand the concept and think 12.5" width tires on rims that the inside is out past the fender and believe it is the superior setup, but yet can't understand why every wheel bearing is crap when it's really their setup that is crap and would barely last a town parade and forget it if they hit a pothole.
Lol no prob man! I think scrub radius is very important! Way too many people don't use this as a consideration for their build. Thanks for watching brother 🤘
Man I've been browsing forums for YEARS getting ideas for how I wanna build my ranger, and I've never understood a lot of the terms you showed. Ik really glad you explained it and showed it on vehicle as well. Props man!
Congrats on your own channel thanks for all the info and looking forward to more. And I have always looked for your rig when you were on the trails with your previous endeavors
I saw some of your stuff on Bleepin Jeep and was impressed. I found today that you have your own channel now. Good for you! I really like your pace, conciseness and how you explain things. You're my new favorite shop teacher.
The bit with front uppers being 70 % shorter and better handling throughout the suspension cycle is more to do with caster changes more than pinion angle, albeit being a solid axle front they are both affected with equal length uppers and lowers.. Great video by the way. Subscribed for future videos.
I just found your channel and I must say I watch a lot of UA-cam I'm absolutely sure you have one of the best fabrication and offered channels on UA-camI understand you have a full-time job but I'll bet if you put more videos out you could make a living off of this
@@DirtLifestyle for real I enjoy seeing fabrication along with everything else most people are either fabricators or parts changers but most people can't do both or maybe the ones that can do it just suck at making UA-cam videos lol
Awesome info I'm a novice in the language of suspension (familiar with everything in theory but no fabrication experience), so nice to have a channel that explains things so well
New sub, thanks for the content. I found your video interesting and informative. You gave a very logical easy to understand explanation of the topic. I look forward to seeing more from your channel.
Hey brother, outstanding commentary on the subject of scrub radius and related topics. Your videos are top notch and extremely informative, a very no-nonsense approach that I appreciate.
This guys awesome, I learn so much every time he goes right into depth. Helps me in making choices for my F250. That’s the nice thing about straight axle rigs... all the Jeeps guys have already done it. Lol
Thank you for the content and time to run through it. We are always looking at suspension info. This covered a lot. So next week I cant wait for u to cover putting on power steering on a CJ 5 with manual. Haha
Absolutely the best info I've ever seen. I have a ZJ with a Rough Country 4" long arm setup. The bump steer is terrible. I've always thought raising the axle end of the panhard bar would get rid of that. You confirmed that. Thanks for the great information.
first off thank you for taking the time to explain this stuff. I have two samurai's that I want to set up for 4 links' the reason I have not is I don't understand it completely . your videos and the way you explain it for the regular joe, such as myself helps me a great deal. one truck will be mostly on road. the other primarily off road. I may have to watch your video a few more times to let it fully sink in, but I feel i'll be able to do a proper and safe job.so, thank you again for sharing your knowledge with us. I feel its my job to help others understand if I can so we can all have fun, but most of all ,be safe while we do it.
I love where this channel is headed. Great topics and content. I find many videos of this nature are high-leveled and breeze through details so keep it technical and keep it up.
I been watching your vids. A lot lately, though my future project is not a jeep. But a chevy S10 crewcab, the information that I'm getting from your vids will surely have a big impact on my building of my project truck.
This is what I'm trying to figure out right now this video has helped alot thank you for touching on this and I would love to see more of this kinda stuff keep it up
6:10 Think you mean drag link needs to be same length as track bar. Good video. I hate the wheels that came with my wife's new ZJ because they stick out so far and makes it hard to turn.
Looks like you need to fab some new body mounts.😁 Wow the first time I've heard ANYONE talk about scrub radius outside racecars. New to your channel and reality liking it. 👍
Nice video Nate. I saw you when I was at a gas station on Idaho (think it was Idaho) on my way to Moab. But, I was too tired from doing field repairs on my YJ steering and you were on a mission, I could tell. I liked your Ram truck and trailer. One of these days, a video on your tow rig would be cool. I liked your video on how you do your trail tool bags. I'm in Mukilteo. So, if you can name drop some trails that are good for a novice like me. That would be much appreciated, obviously not as a main focus, but in passing I guess; that would be cool. I checked out that one off-road area you mentioned on highway 2, on Google maps, seems cool. Bad ass channel. Keep it up man.
Small world man! Tahuya is good place to start wheeling. Wide trails and lots of mud! Then you can work your way up to Evan's creek and elbe hills. Walker valley is a good one as well 👍
We have a major issue with our suspension. Just replaced stock axel with the Currie 44 and when I hit the gas it slow pulls to the right hard, and when I let go it lets the wheel go back to the left. Never seen this before but it sounds like what your talking about at the six min mark. Hoping a new draglink and adjusting the trackbar will help. Great video!
I just tryed to search for bleepinjeepnate and couldn't find ya been watching allot of your videos on the BJ channel glad I found your new channel cant wait to watch it grow into a monster I know it will I watched the BJ channel just for your fab videos
Clean vids, nice straight forward presentations without a bunch of ear beating. Ballistic is top notch and always willing to help out. One question, do you plug weld your bungs? If not have you ever had one pull out? We make all of our links, pan hards, and steering links from semi truck tie rods. We use 1" heims. Plug weld the bungs (as well as at the end of the link). They hold up pretty well for the $$. Def not as tough as the DOM you used. Thanks for sharing. Be safe
Scrub radius deserves more consideration than it gets when choosing wheels, suspension, and axles. This is why manufacturers start with the wheel and tire combination first when designing a vehicle
With track bar mounting points at the same most of the lateral movement can be eliminated. My dislike for funking steering problems takes me back as my 68 Firebird was equipped with their factory installed bump right or left and under or over mystery steering options available in the 60's. I'll be back to watch you work. Peace.
Ive been looking at a formula for scrub radius for my ZJ. Something that tells me, from stock up in tire sizes and wheel spacers, what the scrub radius is calculated to be. In other words if I add a 1.25" wheel spacer what size tires do I need to equal the scrub radius. Then I can also figure the lift to match the bigger size tires.
Hey Nate, love your content man. Have you done anything that explains how link length, horizontal, and vertical separation affect handling characteristics?
Outstanding video series. Gave you a thumbs up. At the time of this video there were 18 men with small pee pee's that gave thumbs down, whatever. Keep it going!
I wish the diesel crowd understood scrub radius with those hideous wheels everyone wants a 35x12.50 stretched on a 22x14 wheel with 1 inch backspacing and 3 inch wheel spacers. Also i really enjoyed your builds before and im glad you have your own channel. I know its a lot of work, but i like you are interacting with comments. Obviously as the channel grows it will be impossible. Also my YJ has leaf springs. Get on my level. Lol
Yeah scrub radius is a concept that alot if car guys don't work into there builds but it effects all of us! Whether it's a miata or a monster truck, it's a huge factor! I'm trying to keep up with the comments lol. I'm answering like 100 questions a day between UA-cam and social media! Thanks for watching 🤘
@@DirtLifestyle well if you could find one reasonably cheap and factory locked I would recommend in lc80 they're perfect for the trail and expedition there's a lot of aftermarket support for them as well still and if you were to do a diesel swap you would be in love trust me on that. Or you could always remove the ifs and straight axle Tacoma!!
Unfortunately this is untrue for most offroad vehicles. Most offroad vehicles use a c/v joint on the transfercase side of the driveshaft. For anyone who is confused by this guy's comment please check out this reference. Its from a driveshaft manufacture called Tom woods and it explains in great detail how to set up driveshaft angle on a CV shaft. www.4xshaft.com/driveline101.html
I have a JK and the mounting brackets in the front on axle stick down a lot. companies make a lower mounting bracket that raises the lower control arms on the axle for more clearance (about an 1”). They uppers brackets stay put. How would this affect the suspension if it all since it’s only 1 inch.
Great videos! Very informative. I have to mention, your pinion angle info isn't accurate though. If you have a single u-joint at both ends of your driveshaft, the degree of both yokes (t-case and pinion) must be the same. If you have a cv style joint (double u-joint), the pinion angle needs to point within 1 degree towards the transfer case. My rear stretched tj drive shaft came from Tom Woods driveshafts. That's where my info came from. There is also a great video on youtube from the 60's (i think) that does a great job of demonstrating what happens when your single u-joints shaft isn't the same degree at both ends. Very Interesting reaction when one end is off. Other than that, your videos are the most informative and clear explanations on the tube. Keep it up. Thank you.
So when you talk about the different length links do you actually mean different mounting points or the actual lenth of the links ? Im am talking about the rear four link also.
Awesome info man! Wow. I have a lot of digging to to. Thanks for the link info to. I’ll start buying those ballistic joints ASAP. Defiantly will be saving this video for future reference as well. Also that anti rock setup off your front axle. What does that do? Is that needed? Thanks man!
Happy to help! The antirock is not a must for everyone but It really helps stability and traction if you combine it with a rear sway bar. I should do a video 🤘
I was totally impressed till I saw you using A36 hot rolled steel, I would use Chormoly plate 0.19 and A574 alloy screws either flat head or low profile socket screws with A574 self locking nuts, besides that and the welding very good video
Hello again need help , i got new gearbox ,drag link , tia rod and track bar all the component are custom done aliment the problem is afther i go off road my stering wheel get off center ,I have no idea what can be ,hoo it have long arm too need help help thanks for any info
I am curious as to why you did not try and raise your transfer case in order to gain more ground clearance? Thus removing the TJ’s shoveling problem. Otherwise great info and keep the great videos coming.
The transfercase is HUGE! It's 3/16 of an inch away from the tub as it sits right now. If I raised the tcase I would have to cut the floor of the tub and raise the seats. That's a compromise I'm not willing to make. Also, the TJ never had a shoveling problem. 🤘
I think it would be good depending on where you live. The big body is not a problem in the desert but up where I live you would turn the body into a raisin depending on where you went!
You have got to be by far the best 4x4 builder on UA-cam. Nobody explains in detail that everyone can understand the way you do. You have already answered many questions I have had over the years and the channel is just getting started! Keep up the good work man!
Wow man this is a big compliment! I really appreciate the kind words! Lots more videos on the way! 🤘
Glad you mentioned scrub radius. No one ever talks about it. Great video series.
You're very articulate in the way you explain everything. I don't know sh!t about most of what you say, but by the end of your video I feel like I understand it more clearly. Not an off road guy, but I love your channel.
Wow man, thank you for the huge compliment. I'm honored to have good folks like yourself watching my videos. Lots more on the way 🤘
Like the channel. My little tip. I use PVC to simulate control arms. Warm the PVC with propane torch push the bung in and hose clamp. Let's me cycle and check for anything unplanned for. And let's me really check link angles. Keep it up
Incredibly useful content, particularly the visual on bump steer.
Learned a ton from this video and the long arms vs short arms video. Your cause and effect demonstrations make you stand out. Love the lack of unnecessary chatter.
Great video and a great hands on explanation of how this stuff works. I think more details on roll steer/flex steer would be useful because it's usually overlooked and really important. The visualization you gave when the rear axle articulates is awesome because it shows where the suspension roll axis is. In your case it's above the rear axle, so you can see the bottom of the axle "swing" left to right as it rotates.
The roll axis is from the instant center of the two lower links, to the instant center of the two upper links. In other words, its a line from where the lower links converge to a point, to where the two upper links converge to a point. The point where the roll axis is directly above the center of the rear wheels is the roll center, and the angle of the roll axis is what determines roll steer. If the roll axis is sloped up towards the front of the vehicle, the axle will steer away from body roll. If the roll axis is sloped down towards the front of the vehicle, the axle will steer into body roll. If the roll axis is flat, then body roll won't affect the angle of the axle and it won't roll steer at all.
This doesn't really matter much until the vehicle is going fast enough for the roll steer angles to have an effect, but at highway speeds it can be dangerous if its wrong. If the front axle steers into a turn, and the rear axle steers away, body roll will make the vehicle turn more, which will cause even more body roll and more roll steer. This is called roll oversteer and it can go bad really quickly, especially with soft springs/sway bars. The opposite of roll oversteer is roll understeer where the front axle steers away from a turn, and the rear axle steers into it. Roll understeer is much safer because body roll and roll steer are self stabilizing, but if taken to extremes it still makes handling unpredictable. Generally, 4 link suspensions should be built with as close to zero roll steer as possible without having any roll oversteer unless its used exclusively for slow speeds.
Hope this helps somebody with their build!
Thanks for the awesome video.
Dude finally a informative hands on explanation. My xj has all of the above shimmy and I’ve had trouble narrowing the “issue”. Mind blown *poof*. Glad to see you on your own!
Thanks brother! Very happy to help!
First time watcher. Well done on that rear diff. What a Fort Knox build. 👍👍
Lol thanks! Glad you stumbled across our channel
Thank You! Thank You! Thank You! for including the scrub radius detail!! I have seen so many of my fellow XJ'ers not understand the concept and think 12.5" width tires on rims that the inside is out past the fender and believe it is the superior setup, but yet can't understand why every wheel bearing is crap when it's really their setup that is crap and would barely last a town parade and forget it if they hit a pothole.
Lol no prob man! I think scrub radius is very important! Way too many people don't use this as a consideration for their build. Thanks for watching brother 🤘
What a great job of explaining these links 👏 lots people don't understand why their jeep don't "flex" like it "should" great job nate
“fresh and so clean clean” Thank you for breaking down These parts and how to set up your suspension
No problem buddy 🤘 thanks for watching!
It's amazing how you explain everything. Wish I had a friend with your skills. Literally about to do a SAS on my truck and could use a guy like you.
Thank you for taking the time to dumb it down for knuckle heads like me. I’m glad I found your videos. Keep up the great work. Love your j truck.
Lol no problem. Thank you!
Dude that was awesome!!! I never understood until now why a linked suspension was desirable!!! Thank you
Man that is knowkedge. I appreciate all your videos because you explain in a way that is understandable.
Man I've been browsing forums for YEARS getting ideas for how I wanna build my ranger, and I've never understood a lot of the terms you showed. Ik really glad you explained it and showed it on vehicle as well. Props man!
It's nice the way you explain and show visually with springs removed.
Thank you!
This is my absolute favorite episode in the playlist so far! Thanks for demonstrating everything!
NOT AN OFFROAD GUY. BUT STILL WATCHES YOU. WOW AND I FEEL SMARTER TOO !! LOL .. WASH STATE RULES !!!
Thanks!
Congrats on your own channel thanks for all the info and looking forward to more. And I have always looked for your rig when you were on the trails with your previous endeavors
Brilliant. Love the way you explain things. And how you take different rigs and build purposes and stages into account. Thanks Nate
Thank you! Very happy to hear you enjoyed the video!
I saw some of your stuff on Bleepin Jeep and was impressed. I found today that you have your own channel now. Good for you! I really like your pace, conciseness and how you explain things. You're my new favorite shop teacher.
Thank you! I'm glad you found me!
The bit with front uppers being 70 % shorter and better handling throughout the suspension cycle is more to do with caster changes more than pinion angle, albeit being a solid axle front they are both affected with equal length uppers and lowers.. Great video by the way. Subscribed for future videos.
I just found your channel and I must say I watch a lot of UA-cam I'm absolutely sure you have one of the best fabrication and offered channels on UA-camI understand you have a full-time job but I'll bet if you put more videos out you could make a living off of this
Thanks a lot man I really appreciate it! I'm actually planning on doing this full time very soon 👊
@@DirtLifestyle for real I enjoy seeing fabrication along with everything else most people are either fabricators or parts changers but most people can't do both or maybe the ones that can do it just suck at making UA-cam videos lol
If someone hasn't mentioned it...it's the drag link (not tie rod) and panhard (track) bar. Great video, thank you!!
Awesome info I'm a novice in the language of suspension (familiar with everything in theory but no fabrication experience), so nice to have a channel that explains things so well
Thanks man! Glad your enjoying the content 🤘
New sub, thanks for the content. I found your video interesting and informative. You gave a very logical easy to understand explanation of the topic. I look forward to seeing more from your channel.
Hey brother, outstanding commentary on the subject of scrub radius and related topics. Your videos are top notch and extremely informative, a very no-nonsense approach that I appreciate.
Thanks buddy 👍I appreciate it
Awesome series of videos man, love how in-depth and well explained everything is, from one builder to another you are a true craftsman!
Thank you! I really appreciate the huge compliment. 🤘
This guys awesome, I learn so much every time he goes right into depth. Helps me in making choices for my F250. That’s the nice thing about straight axle rigs... all the Jeeps guys have already done it. Lol
Thanks buddy! This is great to hear, my goal is to make videos for anybody that likes to go off road 🤘
your videos have been getting better and better!
Thanks brother 🤘
Thank you for the content and time to run through it. We are always looking at suspension info. This covered a lot. So next week I cant wait for u to cover putting on power steering on a CJ 5 with manual. Haha
Absolutely the best info I've ever seen. I have a ZJ with a Rough Country 4" long arm setup. The bump steer is terrible. I've always thought raising the axle end of the panhard bar would get rid of that. You confirmed that. Thanks for the great information.
Thanks man! I'm glad you found this info helpful 👍
first off thank you for taking the time to explain this stuff. I have two samurai's that I want to set up for 4 links' the reason I have not is I don't understand it completely . your videos and the way you explain it for the regular joe, such as myself helps me a great deal. one truck will be mostly on road. the other primarily off road. I may have to watch your video a few more times to let it fully sink in, but I feel i'll be able to do a proper and safe job.so, thank you again for sharing your knowledge with us. I feel its my job to help others understand if I can so we can all have fun, but most of all ,be safe while we do it.
Awesome man I'm happy to help! I daily drove a sammy for awhile. I'd still like to build a sammy one day 🤘
I love where this channel is headed. Great topics and content. I find many videos of this nature are high-leveled and breeze through details so keep it technical and keep it up.
Thank you!
Scrub radius! I never knew that one. Cool man... I'm doing a 1 ton swap soon and I'll def keep that in mind. Thanks!
I been watching your vids. A lot lately, though my future project is not a jeep. But a chevy S10 crewcab, the information that I'm getting from your vids will surely have a big impact on my building of my project truck.
Awesome! Glad your enjoying the videos! I love built s10s especially a crew cab. Maybe I'll build one of those one day too 👍
Awesome explanation nate! I don't know much about suspension geometry, but this definitely explains a hell of a lot 😎 - Keep em coming!
Thanks man! I'm happy to help!
Awesome channel! Much needed content. Great subject choice for this video and great explanation style. Keep it up.
This is what I'm trying to figure out right now this video has helped alot thank you for touching on this and I would love to see more of this kinda stuff keep it up
Thanks man!
Killer edit guy, loving the new channel
Thanks man! I'm glad your digging the content 🤘
Excellent video. Looking forward to more TJ goodness
Great description of key elements, Nate. Awesome work.
Thanks for everything you do for us, and by the way you're the man on this stuff.
Bumpsteer... didn't know they had a name for that but I definitely felt it before!
Very well explained Nate ! Thank you for sharing . Loving your channel . Keep up the great work . Until next time take care .
6:10 Think you mean drag link needs to be same length as track bar. Good video. I hate the wheels that came with my wife's new ZJ because they stick out so far and makes it hard to turn.
This mistake kills me lol. I didn't catch it until the video had already been live. Thanks for watching man
Absolutely great. Great information and showing what it is and what happens. Very understandable.
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed the video👍
Looks like you need to fab some new body mounts.😁 Wow the first time I've heard ANYONE talk about scrub radius outside racecars. New to your channel and reality liking it. 👍
Great video Nate. Have been think about linking my front axle! Important stuff to think about!
Thanks! I hope it can help steer you in the right direction 🤘
Thanks again for a great vid Nate. You are killing it!
Thank you!
Yet another entertaining and super informative video! Doing awesome man
Thank you!
That was a great scrub radius explanation! Thank you!
Great video. The info is very usefull. In Denmark your 4x4 is modifed, if you drive on All terrain tires. Just a little Hallo from Denmark. 💪🤓👍
Nice video Nate. I saw you when I was at a gas station on Idaho (think it was Idaho) on my way to Moab. But, I was too tired from doing field repairs on my YJ steering and you were on a mission, I could tell. I liked your Ram truck and trailer. One of these days, a video on your tow rig would be cool. I liked your video on how you do your trail tool bags. I'm in Mukilteo. So, if you can name drop some trails that are good for a novice like me. That would be much appreciated, obviously not as a main focus, but in passing I guess; that would be cool. I checked out that one off-road area you mentioned on highway 2, on Google maps, seems cool. Bad ass channel. Keep it up man.
Small world man! Tahuya is good place to start wheeling. Wide trails and lots of mud! Then you can work your way up to Evan's creek and elbe hills. Walker valley is a good one as well 👍
Thanks Nate.
We have a major issue with our suspension. Just replaced stock axel with the Currie 44 and when I hit the gas it slow pulls to the right hard, and when I let go it lets the wheel go back to the left. Never seen this before but it sounds like what your talking about at the six min mark. Hoping a new draglink and adjusting the trackbar will help. Great video!
Dude these videos are great I wish I saw them when I was building my Jeep
Thanks brother!
Learning alot from your videos keep it up! Thank you for the great content!
Great! Thanks for watching!
I just tryed to search for bleepinjeepnate and couldn't find ya been watching allot of your videos on the BJ channel glad I found your new channel cant wait to watch it grow into a monster I know it will I watched the BJ channel just for your fab videos
Thank you man! Glad you found my new channel!
The heim joint on your tie rod looked maxed out when you dropped the axel
Clean vids, nice straight forward presentations without a bunch of ear beating. Ballistic is top notch and always willing to help out.
One question, do you plug weld your bungs? If not have you ever had one pull out? We make all of our links, pan hards, and steering links from semi truck tie rods. We use 1" heims. Plug weld the bungs (as well as at the end of the link). They hold up pretty well for the $$. Def not as tough as the DOM you used. Thanks for sharing. Be safe
You got a nice shop dude!
Always enjoy your content keep up the good work
Thank you!
Scrub radius deserves more consideration than it gets when choosing wheels, suspension, and axles. This is why manufacturers start with the wheel and tire combination first when designing a vehicle
Nice videos man love it! Can we see a vid dedicated to suspension ?
With track bar mounting points at the same most of the lateral movement can be eliminated. My dislike for funking steering problems takes me back as my 68 Firebird was equipped with their factory installed bump right or left and under or over mystery steering options available in the 60's. I'll be back to watch you work. Peace.
Ive been looking at a formula for scrub radius for my ZJ. Something that tells me, from stock up in tire sizes and wheel spacers, what the scrub radius is calculated to be. In other words if I add a 1.25" wheel spacer what size tires do I need to equal the scrub radius. Then I can also figure the lift to match the bigger size tires.
That's Info is really hard to find
Good stuff!! Awesome skid build btw
Thank you!
Dude this is some seriously good information
Glad you enjoyed the video brother 🤘
Great video, your explanation of the suspension components and types was very helpful, thanks Nate, cleared some areas I was not fully understanding.
Thank you! I'm happy to help 👍
Great videos , you explain everything very well
Thank man! Glad you are digging my content! Lots more on the way!
Hey Nate, love your content man. Have you done anything that explains how link length, horizontal, and vertical separation affect handling characteristics?
Outstanding video series. Gave you a thumbs up. At the time of this video there were 18 men with small pee pee's that gave thumbs down, whatever. Keep it going!
Lol thanks brother 👊
I wish the diesel crowd understood scrub radius with those hideous wheels everyone wants a 35x12.50 stretched on a 22x14 wheel with 1 inch backspacing and 3 inch wheel spacers.
Also i really enjoyed your builds before and im glad you have your own channel. I know its a lot of work, but i like you are interacting with comments. Obviously as the channel grows it will be impossible.
Also my YJ has leaf springs. Get on my level. Lol
Yeah scrub radius is a concept that alot if car guys don't work into there builds but it effects all of us! Whether it's a miata or a monster truck, it's a huge factor! I'm trying to keep up with the comments lol. I'm answering like 100 questions a day between UA-cam and social media! Thanks for watching 🤘
Good series... I'm a Yota guy but it's all relative. Looks good.
Thanks man! I've always liked Toyota's as well. I'm currently looking around for the right one to add to the channel. 🤘
@@DirtLifestyle well if you could find one reasonably cheap and factory locked I would recommend in lc80 they're perfect for the trail and expedition there's a lot of aftermarket support for them as well still and if you were to do a diesel swap you would be in love trust me on that. Or you could always remove the ifs and straight axle Tacoma!!
You pretty much read my mind lol
Have you thought about upgrading your panhard bar to a watts link system?
Can you do a part 2 to this with diagrams? Excellent start.
Great idea!
Hey Nate can you please give us some info on how you built your hydro assist steering please ?
You want pinion angle to stay parallel to the output shaft due to the driveshaft cogging. Look for the Spicer video on the subject.
Unfortunately this is untrue for most offroad vehicles. Most offroad vehicles use a c/v joint on the transfercase side of the driveshaft. For anyone who is confused by this guy's comment please check out this reference. Its from a driveshaft manufacture called Tom woods and it explains in great detail how to set up driveshaft angle on a CV shaft.
www.4xshaft.com/driveline101.html
I have a JK and the mounting brackets in the front on axle stick down a lot. companies make a lower mounting bracket that raises the lower control arms on the axle for more clearance (about an 1”). They uppers brackets stay put. How would this affect the suspension if it all since it’s only 1 inch.
Awesome vid Nate
Thank you!
Great videos! Very informative.
I have to mention, your pinion angle info isn't accurate though.
If you have a single u-joint at both ends of your driveshaft, the degree of both yokes (t-case and pinion) must be the same.
If you have a cv style joint (double u-joint), the pinion angle needs to point within 1 degree towards the transfer case.
My rear stretched tj drive shaft came from Tom Woods driveshafts. That's where my info came from.
There is also a great video on youtube from the 60's (i think) that does a great job of demonstrating what happens when your single u-joints shaft isn't the same degree at both ends. Very Interesting reaction when one end is off.
Other than that, your videos are the most informative and clear explanations on the tube. Keep it up. Thank you.
Great video buddy! Can you share info. where you got the joints, I like them very much. Thanks!
So when you talk about the different length links do you actually mean different mounting points or the actual lenth of the links ? Im am talking about the rear four link also.
Awesome info man! Wow. I have a lot of digging to to. Thanks for the link info to. I’ll start buying those ballistic joints ASAP. Defiantly will be saving this video for future reference as well. Also that anti rock setup off your front axle. What does that do? Is that needed? Thanks man!
Happy to help! The antirock is not a must for everyone but It really helps stability and traction if you combine it with a rear sway bar. I should do a video 🤘
Ok. So if I drive my Jeep daily and wheel it maybe a good idea to get one as well? And your tj is looking sick with those 2” links man. Very nice
I was totally impressed till I saw you using A36 hot rolled steel, I would use Chormoly plate 0.19 and A574 alloy screws either flat head or low profile socket screws with A574 self locking nuts, besides that and the welding very good video
You're awesome man, great video explanations.
Thank you!
Hello again need help , i got new gearbox ,drag link , tia rod and track bar all the component are custom done aliment the problem is afther i go off road my stering wheel get off center ,I have no idea what can be ,hoo it have long arm too need help help thanks for any info
Sounds like your bending you draglink, tie rod or your trac bar. These are the only components related to your problem 🤘
Where can we enquire about those big heim joints keen to have a look at some different options havent seen those ones before cheers?
Www.ballisticfabrication.com definitely give them a look! They are pretty bad ass🤘
@@DirtLifestyle awesome found them cheers
Keep up the good videos
Thanks for the videos.
So what’s the advantage of coil spring over leaf spring
I believe what you meant by length of track rod needs to be as close as possible to the drag link length not the tie rod.
Hi Nate, what body Armour are you running? the part on you jeep in the front where the Armour is cut out where it says JEEP
To be honest I can remember. I bought those alot of years ago. My gut says JCR 🤘
I am curious as to why you did not try and raise your transfer case in order to gain more ground clearance? Thus removing the TJ’s shoveling problem. Otherwise great info and keep the great videos coming.
The transfercase is HUGE! It's 3/16 of an inch away from the tub as it sits right now. If I raised the tcase I would have to cut the floor of the tub and raise the seats. That's a compromise I'm not willing to make. Also, the TJ never had a shoveling problem. 🤘
Question.. im planning to do a 4 link on my gu patrol. I dont see a stabilizer bar. No need?
Bump steer is due to unequal length of panhard and drag link, not tie rod, right?
Shit did I say tierod? I meant draglink
Great info. Is scrub radius and castor the same? And with 0 scrub how will my daily driver perform?
So,,in regards to scrub radius, what wheel offset if any do you need to put 35×12.50 × 17 on a jeep TJ?
I have a 2000 old body style Tahoe z71 is this a good truck to have for overlanding well I live in Charlotte NC
I think it would be good depending on where you live. The big body is not a problem in the desert but up where I live you would turn the body into a raisin depending on where you went!
@@DirtLifestyle I do live in Charlotte NC