Teaches patience and a determination to get it done right. It's cold, laying on a dirt floor with one trouble light. Most people will never know the feeling you get when your driving the tractor out of the shed. I'm 60 and appreciate all the things the farm taught me about life and yes, it may help you market your chickens and eggs in a odd sort of way.
It's something that happens to mechanics around the globe. Much of the time you look for the tool you had in your hand 10 seconds ago. Another thing that is always gone is either 13mm if you count in mm, or ½ inch if you count in inches. It's the same size and probably hiding in the same place.
There is an updated longer shift shaft. On that shaft there are lands on either side of the fork that lock the fork in place on the shaft. Then all the sliding is the shaft in the holes and not the fork on the shaft. You take the shaft out and put the new one in through the hole behind the three point top link anchor. BTW it is a lot easier to get the range cover off if you lock the park lock up by placing a nut under the pivot before you disconnect the linkage.
# 1 clean the area up before you work in it. #2 clean up around the flange faces before you separate the pieces #3 Get the shop manual, and the parts list, for the machine that you're working on before you attempt to fix it. Repeat after me 100 times, "Screwdrivers are NOT prybars" Get plenty of clean rags
should cover the ground under what your working on with cardboard taped together makes finding stuff you drop on the ground alot easer when working on a dirt floor or a big sheet of plastic works well too and if it's wight parts you drop show up real well
I was going to suggest to pull the rod out and clean it up as you go before you put it in the fork. Then oil it and slide it back into its hole. Should go thru fork easy and you would have found the snap ring groove too.
We found the groove. We would have to get into the far back of the transmission to extract the rod. Which would require more disassembly. I imagine it will function for many thousand hours more.
Hate it when I drop something, like that bolt, when I'm working on dirt or gravel. Sometimes you can spot the part easily, other times it seems to take 2 hours to find. Just a thought, especially since you're doing this at home and not in the field, do you have any empty seed corn sacks or large pieces of cardboard lying around? Put either one down on the ground and unless it bounces off the sacks/ cardboard, you'll be able to find dropped pieces a lot easier. More involved job than I'd care to tackle.
I think this project went better than the combine clutch we replaced recently. If it was project where I expected to be crawling around on the floor more, I would have laid out some card board. Just didn't think of it this time. If only I could go back in time to document some of tractors we have fixed. Major items were the 1086 transmission rebuild, and the overhaul of the 2810.
I got a 1486 that is supposedly "stuck in reverse". Basically it stalls in any gear even park if you let out the clutch. I've tore it down to the point where you were at the start of this video. All shift levers are moving fine (so it's not stuck in reverse, at least from the outside view). Trying to figure out if I need to pull that top cover and what to look for next. Would you have any suggestions?
@@boehmfarm4276 Same thing in neutral also...it tries to stall when I let the clutch out. The reverse lever and hi/lo lever is in the neutral position when looking down on that top plate. I'm about to start pulling that plate but thought I'd see if you had an opinion first.
Do you have to drain the oil to remove the top cover? Our 1086 is grinding when moving in gear so I think the parking pawl has issues as there's no spring tension on it.
Hey mate I’ve recently bought a 766 to fix up here in Australia. Initially the biggest issue was a seized engine but now that it’s running I’m not able to get reverse at all And it grinds but won’t select forward gears. What’s your opinion of this situation? Inters are very common here in Australia but knowledge and expertise not so much
What does International ( Case/ International) say on a fix ? Would hate to do it over again .As for a shop? I like the big shop outside, we got cement , and you have more light. The big but is you can't control the weather , Some years ago,winter project was splitting tractor for clutch,just keep the fire burning
I think I mention the redesigned part in a coming video. The correction uses two c clips on either side of the fork, and the rail now slides with the fork instead of being stationary. If we had dry weather, some projects are fine for outside.
I have had to do this twice on my 986. Put there clip on still fell off 6 months later got the new shaft u has 2 spots for clips front and back so shaft doesn't move anymore so far knock on wood 16 months no issue.
I'm about to open my 886 up for the 2nd time in 2 months. I'm fairly certain the the c clip I replaced fell off again. I'm thinking of using a snap ring this time instead. How difficult is it to replace the shaft out the back of the tractor through the toplink opening?
@@greglambert1265 nope was easy I got like 3 ft of heater hose slip over the end. Theb just pull it back I got a shaft from case it has 2 c clips on it now front and back. No problems sense.
@@garytoyne617 Thank you! Removing the toplink cover is all I need to gain access? I'm guessing you used the hose to line the new shaft up or was it long enough to get it started without the hose?
well u did not use my suggestion on making some pry bars outta old steel pipe, so u keep using screw drivers for other than driving screws. u gotta make all kinds of sizes of free pry bars for all kinds of fixes painting them red helps find them in the trash on the ground.
@@boehmfarm4276 I cant imagine driving these things without a synchronized transmission or at least the 4 drive gears and I also dont understand why most tractor in the US dont have a foot throttle.
We just got a 1066 that makes awful knocking noises only in 4th and the high end of 3rd. Our guess is that maybe a tooth broke from one of the gears and is getting caught up between the gears. Any thoughts on this? Do you know which gears are visible when you open up the side cover?
The side cover we removed allows access to the reverse cluster. The four speed is in front of the ranges. If a tooth chipped off, its resting on the bottom of the transmission. The knock may be gear meshing issues because of missing teeth, or bearings going out and giving a shaft some wiggle room. Does it maintain speed in those gears-- can you feel dead spots, which would signify missing teeth.
It does seem to jerk/slow when it makes the noise, which is sort of intermittent but happens a lot more consistently when the throttle is higher in 4th (and less often but still occasionally with 3rd). Is there an easy-ish access cover to be able to see the four speed without having to open up the whole transmission?
I haven't dug into a 66 series, the transmission is the same as the 86. Under the 1086 cab floor is the four speed transmission cover. It should come off similar to the range cover.
Nice eagle eyes! We saw that too. That is for reverse, which is a replacement from the rebuild 15 years ago. Its the only chipped tooth, which I think happened when we discovered the shifting issue. My uncle said he put it into park (its a claw that catches on the reverse gear) and when he let out the clutch, the tractor stalled. Now, not knowing how quick he was with the pedal release, good chance that he was quick and the jerk of the tractor still in gear broke that one tooth. To replace that reverse gear would be an extensive project, but with one tooth missing, reverse seems to function smoothly still.
Thanks! I wanted to point that out for you just in case you didn't see it. Glad it's still functional, anything like that is expensive. You seem very confident to tear into that transmission! I wouldn't want to do that! Lol
Teaches patience and a determination to get it done right. It's cold, laying on a dirt floor with one trouble light. Most people will never know the feeling you get when your driving the tractor out of the shed. I'm 60 and appreciate all the things the farm taught me about life and yes, it may help you market your chickens and eggs in a odd sort of way.
I'd take the dirt floor over and office chair. It was delightful to drive the 1086 the first time since the repair. That video is coming soon.
The friendship you guys have is awesome, I love watching you working together so well.
It's something that happens to mechanics around the globe.
Much of the time you look for the tool you had in your hand 10 seconds ago.
Another thing that is always gone is either 13mm if you count in mm,
or ½ inch if you count in inches. It's the same size and probably hiding in the same place.
There is an updated longer shift shaft. On that shaft there are lands on either side of the fork that lock the fork in place on the shaft. Then all the sliding is the shaft in the holes and not the fork on the shaft. You take the shaft out and put the new one in through the hole behind the three point top link anchor. BTW it is a lot easier to get the range cover off if you lock the park lock up by placing a nut under the pivot before you disconnect the linkage.
Thank you for the advice. Brad has been researching this.
# 1 clean the area up before you work in it. #2 clean up around the flange faces before you separate the pieces #3 Get the shop manual, and the parts list, for the machine that you're working on before you attempt to fix it. Repeat after me 100 times, "Screwdrivers are NOT prybars" Get plenty of clean rags
Obviously a comment from a non-farmer.
Doing a good job, fixing things yourselves will help you in other problems you have on the farm.
check out my channel you might like what you see.
I don't know if fixing tractors will help me in marketing my chicken or eggs, but it sure saves $.
should cover the ground under what your working on with cardboard taped together makes finding stuff you drop on the ground alot easer when working on a dirt floor or a big sheet of plastic works well too and if it's wight parts you drop show up real well
Thanks. If I was doing more work on my back, I would cover the floor. The elevation of this project made me forget to do that.
I was going to suggest to pull the rod out and clean it up as you go before you put it in the fork. Then oil it and slide it back into its hole. Should go thru fork easy and you would have found the snap ring groove too.
We found the groove. We would have to get into the far back of the transmission to extract the rod. Which would require more disassembly. I imagine it will function for many thousand hours more.
Install the new style shifter shaft with 2 snap rings that will fix it
You don’t have to Drain oil to take of side plate
There is a special tool you can make so you don't have to take the fuel tank off and pull the reverse shifter shaft. Makes the job quicker.
There will be a video about our own homemade fix. A hammer and a long piece of threaded rod.
Hate it when I drop something, like that bolt, when I'm working on dirt or gravel. Sometimes you can spot the part easily, other times it seems to take 2 hours to find. Just a thought, especially since you're doing this at home and not in the field, do you have any empty seed corn sacks or large pieces of cardboard lying around? Put either one down on the ground and unless it bounces off the sacks/ cardboard, you'll be able to find dropped pieces a lot easier. More involved job than I'd care to tackle.
I think this project went better than the combine clutch we replaced recently. If it was project where I expected to be crawling around on the floor more, I would have laid out some card board. Just didn't think of it this time. If only I could go back in time to document some of tractors we have fixed. Major items were the 1086 transmission rebuild, and the overhaul of the 2810.
All I can say is..... No thanks...... it's all yours!!! Good job
Thank you.
I got a 1486 that is supposedly "stuck in reverse". Basically it stalls in any gear even park if you let out the clutch. I've tore it down to the point where you were at the start of this video. All shift levers are moving fine (so it's not stuck in reverse, at least from the outside view). Trying to figure out if I need to pull that top cover and what to look for next. Would you have any suggestions?
What happened in neutral?
@@boehmfarm4276 Same thing in neutral also...it tries to stall when I let the clutch out. The reverse lever and hi/lo lever is in the neutral position when looking down on that top plate. I'm about to start pulling that plate but thought I'd see if you had an opinion first.
Do you have to drain the oil to remove the top cover? Our 1086 is grinding when moving in gear so I think the parking pawl has issues as there's no spring tension on it.
No, you do not have to drain the oil. Watch for damage to the reverse gear if park is giving you trouble.
Hey mate
I’ve recently bought a 766 to fix up here in Australia. Initially the biggest issue was a seized engine but now that it’s running I’m not able to get reverse at all
And it grinds but won’t select forward gears. What’s your opinion of this situation?
Inters are very common here in Australia but knowledge and expertise not so much
Does it have a hydraulic assist clutch?
@@boehmfarm4276 I’m honestly not 100% I’m awaiting the arrival of a service book because I’m certainly stabbing in the dark with this project
What does International ( Case/ International) say on a fix ? Would hate to do it over again .As for a shop? I like the big shop outside, we got cement , and you have more light. The big but is you can't control the weather , Some years ago,winter project was splitting tractor for clutch,just keep the fire burning
I think I mention the redesigned part in a coming video. The correction uses two c clips on either side of the fork, and the rail now slides with the fork instead of being stationary.
If we had dry weather, some projects are fine for outside.
check out my channel you might like what you see.
I have had to do this twice on my 986. Put there clip on still fell off 6 months later got the new shaft u has 2 spots for clips front and back so shaft doesn't move anymore so far knock on wood 16 months no issue.
So far we have made it six months without issue. But we did investigate the stationary shaft.
I'm about to open my 886 up for the 2nd time in 2 months. I'm fairly certain the the c clip I replaced fell off again. I'm thinking of using a snap ring this time instead. How difficult is it to replace the shaft out the back of the tractor through the toplink opening?
@@greglambert1265 nope was easy I got like 3 ft of heater hose slip over the end. Theb just pull it back I got a shaft from case it has 2 c clips on it now front and back. No problems sense.
@@garytoyne617 Thank you! Removing the toplink cover is all I need to gain access? I'm guessing you used the hose to line the new shaft up or was it long enough to get it started without the hose?
@@greglambert1265 so I didn't drop the old or new shaft in the bottom of tractor. I think it was 3/4. Yep just top link for 3 point
well u did not use my suggestion on making some pry bars outta old steel pipe, so u keep using screw drivers for other than driving screws. u gotta make all kinds of sizes of free pry bars for all kinds of fixes painting them red helps find them in the trash on the ground.
I gotta say, this video was before that.
That's a lot of work to find out there is a clip missing. That's about enough to piss someone off.
We had a very solid idea that the clip was missing. And we didn't have to spend too much on parts. The best fix is free parts or do nothing at all.
When they are assembled at the factory they assume you will never have to work on them. Ever
I hope to never work on them.
Good job guys
Thank you
check out my channel you might like what you see.
Hi
I have a question are the 4 gears on the 66/86 Series synchronized or not?
Nope, almost anti synchronized.
@@boehmfarm4276 I cant imagine driving these things without a synchronized transmission or at least the 4 drive gears and I also dont understand why most tractor in the US dont have a foot throttle.
The bumps make you mash throttle?
@@cletaspratt9162 with a foot throttle you can easily avoid grinding gears by doubleclutching and drive much smoother... just saying...
I was waiting for him to snap his screwdriver in half when he was prying with it lol ....
The screwdriver does flex, and I monitored its performance. Good thing it is a craftsman, so free replacement if it breaks!
Boehm Farm Heck ya that's the great thing about Craftsman and we have a 1586 we mow with ...
So are you a full-time farmer or do you have an off farm job?
I farming brings in all my bacon.
Boehm Farm so is the other guy brad a hired man or
Brad is my best friend. He helps out on the farm. He is gaining farm knowledge and wants to farm one day also.
Is this a common transmission used in IH tractors circa 70's and I'm guessing this is a late 70's very early 80's model?
From a 706 (60s) to a 1486 (1980). the transmissions are very unchanged.
We just got a 1066 that makes awful knocking noises only in 4th and the high end of 3rd. Our guess is that maybe a tooth broke from one of the gears and is getting caught up between the gears. Any thoughts on this? Do you know which gears are visible when you open up the side cover?
The side cover we removed allows access to the reverse cluster. The four speed is in front of the ranges. If a tooth chipped off, its resting on the bottom of the transmission. The knock may be gear meshing issues because of missing teeth, or bearings going out and giving a shaft some wiggle room. Does it maintain speed in those gears-- can you feel dead spots, which would signify missing teeth.
It does seem to jerk/slow when it makes the noise, which is sort of intermittent but happens a lot more consistently when the throttle is higher in 4th (and less often but still occasionally with 3rd). Is there an easy-ish access cover to be able to see the four speed without having to open up the whole transmission?
I haven't dug into a 66 series, the transmission is the same as the 86. Under the 1086 cab floor is the four speed transmission cover. It should come off similar to the range cover.
👍👌🇨🇦❤
looks like theres a broke tooth on the back gear.
Nice eagle eyes! We saw that too. That is for reverse, which is a replacement from the rebuild 15 years ago. Its the only chipped tooth, which I think happened when we discovered the shifting issue. My uncle said he put it into park (its a claw that catches on the reverse gear) and when he let out the clutch, the tractor stalled. Now, not knowing how quick he was with the pedal release, good chance that he was quick and the jerk of the tractor still in gear broke that one tooth. To replace that reverse gear would be an extensive project, but with one tooth missing, reverse seems to function smoothly still.
Thanks! I wanted to point that out for you just in case you didn't see it. Glad it's still functional, anything like that is expensive. You seem very confident to tear into that transmission! I wouldn't want to do that! Lol
The only thing I don't like are gas engines and wiring. It would be expensive if it was a powershift. haha
Haha I don't wiring period! Took a week to re wire my wd! Lol
Need a crowbar
Might be too big for the space, and I don't want to take out the remaining windows.
Why don’t you take the tractor to a real mechanic? See if you guys fucking around with it
Ain't nobody got money for that. And I still don't trust most "real" mechanics.