The biggest advantage of the PID's over the Chinese SCRs is that the SCR's have a tendency to crap out and then you have to wire in a spare IF you have one. That said the SCR's are dirt cheap. I like the idea of the safety net that a PID gives you so that you don't blow into your boild BUT I run 2 elements on heat up; 1 straight to power an the other one on an SCR and track temperature to know when I have to be ready to turn the heat down and unplug the second element. I appreciate wiring videos even though others already exist its nice to see how different people wire things up.
Welcome back! I use both PID and SCR. I need to learn more about pid setup as I get frustrated with takeoff flow stopping and starting every few seconds. Great video. Thanks.
Nice to see you online again. Good luck with the new venture in Lephalale / Ellisras. I struggled a bit with a PID on a smaller pot still, I got quite weird temperature fulgurations as it switch on and off during a run. I felt bit better in control with a SCR on the smaller setup. PID did work much better when I got a bigger pot. Would be great to see how you did the wiring on this system.
Take a good look at Digital SSR Power Regulators. It's the best of both worlds imo. I run Auber's DSPR400. Digital power regulation that can switch to PID mode is a dream on a home still. Also allows me to use my boiler to heat my mash water to a specific temp.
Love my PID. It know I can set my still 150F and it will take 36 minutes to get my first drop. Once the take off slows down, I can discard the distillate, bump to 180 and collect it all. After 180F I can bump at 5F at a time till I run into tails. My 5500w element killed the two SCRs I tried at half power.😢
all the best for your new position! ive never used the pid capabilities of my newer boiler, i probably should just for the experience, ive always got a kick out of my phase angle controller i use with my usual boiler, i made it with old timey mechanical movement voltmeter and ammeter for instrumentation, i have a thing for old mechanical dial thermometers too lol
When I was using my PID, I would run it in auto to heat up the still to around 165V. Then, I would switch over to manual and adjust the percent power to balance out my column. Then I would pretty much leave it alone throughout the run.
I have the same style controller and use it as you have described. The only difference between the two is, mine has a digital volt/current meter on the out put side. It's great for calculating the wattage for quick referance
Good info Beaver. Am I the only person that finds using the dephlegmator (or the adjustment of flow of water through the dephlegmator, with a constant energy input to the kettle) the easiest way to control the output speed?
I tried a PID, but since my still is semi outdoors every hint at a breeze or ambient temperature change would send the thing doing wild acrobatics, it would never hold a steady take-off. I can dial my SSR in and walk away. Edit: I have a 52 gallon still, it is away from the house, it can run for hours all by itself, walking away is not a problem.
I have both (PID & SCR)...both work great. I use the PID with a 1500W element and the SCR with a 2000W element. I do not prefer one over the other. Both get the job done!
I have a PID controller but I am not happy with it at all. it shuts off at temp and my run stops until pid decides to turn heat back on and it get back to temp to run. I heard scr controllers are better and I am contemplating swapping over
Im not sure how you do it, if the temp probe is in the lyne arm and reading the vapour temp it is seeing the temp rise which of course means the vapour abv is dropping, therefore the PID reduces power to reduce temp but that will reduce vapour speed and reflux dropping abv even lower or just stops everything or is the algorithm more complex. vapour temp is directly related to vapour ABV
Great video! I use a SCR.. gets the job done.. set and forget.. only do small changes towards the end of the run
Best of luck with the moving !
The biggest advantage of the PID's over the Chinese SCRs is that the SCR's have a tendency to crap out and then you have to wire in a spare IF you have one. That said the SCR's are dirt cheap. I like the idea of the safety net that a PID gives you so that you don't blow into your boild BUT I run 2 elements on heat up; 1 straight to power an the other one on an SCR and track temperature to know when I have to be ready to turn the heat down and unplug the second element. I appreciate wiring videos even though others already exist its nice to see how different people wire things up.
Welcome back! I use both PID and SCR. I need to learn more about pid setup as I get frustrated with takeoff flow stopping and starting every few seconds. Great video. Thanks.
Nice to see you online again. Good luck with the new venture in Lephalale / Ellisras.
I struggled a bit with a PID on a smaller pot still, I got quite weird temperature fulgurations as it switch on and off during a run. I felt bit better in control with a SCR on the smaller setup.
PID did work much better when I got a bigger pot. Would be great to see how you did the wiring on this system.
Goed om jou weer te sien. Jy gaan van warm na warmer bosveld! Hoop jou setup is gou op die been sodat ons weer lekker mampoer kan stook.
A double whammy, we got you and George back again.
Keep up the good work!
thanks for video well done glad to see you back cheers my friend
Great to see you are back!
I'd like to hear how you set your PID. My setup seems to allow more variation than I'd expect (temp/takeoff rate and bubbles on plates)
Take a good look at Digital SSR Power Regulators. It's the best of both worlds imo. I run Auber's DSPR400. Digital power regulation that can switch to PID mode is a dream on a home still. Also allows me to use my boiler to heat my mash water to a specific temp.
Love my PID. It know I can set my still 150F and it will take 36 minutes to get my first drop. Once the take off slows down, I can discard the distillate, bump to 180 and collect it all. After 180F I can bump at 5F at a time till I run into tails. My 5500w element killed the two SCRs I tried at half power.😢
all the best for your new position! ive never used the pid capabilities of my newer boiler, i probably should just for the experience, ive always got a kick out of my phase angle controller i use with my usual boiler, i made it with old timey mechanical movement voltmeter and ammeter for instrumentation, i have a thing for old mechanical dial thermometers too lol
When I was using my PID, I would run it in auto to heat up the still to around 165V. Then, I would switch over to manual and adjust the percent power to balance out my column. Then I would pretty much leave it alone throughout the run.
I have the same style controller and use it as you have described. The only difference between the two is, mine has a digital volt/current meter on the out put side. It's great for calculating the wattage for quick referance
Beaver and gorge both making new vids?! Be still my heart!!
Good info Beaver.
Am I the only person that finds using the dephlegmator (or the adjustment of flow of water through the dephlegmator, with a constant energy input to the kettle) the easiest way to control the output speed?
Use both as well pid to help get up to temp and scr to maintain output flow. Looking forward to new set up when you get settled.
I tried a PID, but since my still is semi outdoors every hint at a breeze or ambient temperature change would send the thing doing wild acrobatics, it would never hold a steady take-off. I can dial my SSR in and walk away.
Edit: I have a 52 gallon still, it is away from the house, it can run for hours all by itself, walking away is not a problem.
I have both (PID & SCR)...both work great. I use the PID with a 1500W element and the SCR with a 2000W element. I do not prefer one over the other. Both get the job done!
Hey! Awesome Video! I dont see the 3d Print file link! :-)
Good video good to see you
I have a PID controller but I am not happy with it at all. it shuts off at temp and my run stops until pid decides to turn heat back on and it get back to temp to run. I heard scr controllers are better and I am contemplating swapping over
Hi what will a good size element be for a 60 liter pot?
HEY! Ellisras is my ou tuisdorp! ekt n ketel gekry. sal like om bietjie met jou te gesels oor n paar wenke
Im not sure how you do it, if the temp probe is in the lyne arm and reading the vapour temp it is seeing the temp rise which of course means the vapour abv is dropping, therefore the PID reduces power to reduce temp but that will reduce vapour speed and reflux dropping abv even lower or just stops everything or is the algorithm more complex. vapour temp is directly related to vapour ABV
🎉Heeeeey beavers back!!!!🎉
Welkom in Ellisras Boet
I tend to think that the scr works better on pot still and pid works better on columb stills