Knock out 2 of the wheel studs that correspond to a solid section of the hub axle assembly, use a section of ready rod or a long bolt as a jacking screw. Place a nut & washer onto the bolt after slipping the bolt into the missing stud holes. You may need to place a section of steel plate where the bolt contacts the hub axle assembly. Use the 2 bolts & nuts to jack the hub assembly out of the hub bore. Works very well, I figured this out after spending two days trying to remove the wheel hub from my son's FWD GMC pickup truck.
Just finished doing this on my 05 Vue, 4cyl 5spd manual, 277,000 mi. No power tools here, had to use a 3/4 in breaker bar with a 34 mm socket to get axle nut removed. The left front wheel hub assembly went a lot easier than the right front. Replacing left front did not get rid of the horrific grinding sounds. Two days later, right front removal. Had to pound it as you did on this video. Finally broke loose. Anti seize on the hub threads, axle nut and brake caliper bolts. Thanks for sharing your experience and endeavor. The right front replacement got rid of all of the noise, thankfully. Thanks again for sharing. Nice to have my Saturn back quiet traveling down the roadways.
I have a suggestion for you for getting the old assembly off. Get a straight claw hammer & put the claw end on where the assembly meets the knuckle & tap on the head of the hammer.. work your way around & it will loosen the assembly.
Thank you for sharing this video! I’m not much of a car guy but will get it done if need be. I hate the time it takes, I’m not a patient person!! But I do appreciate this as I am going to do this tomorrow morning for my 04, about how long did this take you to finish? And as for an amateur like myself, how long do you think it’ll take ??
Folks if you come here finding it almost impossible to get the hub out of the carrier, look below at Sparta's comment below "Lucky yours came off easy" and click read replies. Called the power steering trick. It can be hazardous, but it saved me hours of pounding, got that sucker out in less than a minute or so! No I would never recommend anyone try this... lol. But it worked in my case today. Saved my butt!
The easy way to do this is to take the whole hub off and knock the bearing out from the back. You will save time and knuckles, I tried this method and it wasn't very effective. Taking the whole thing off isn't hard and really saves time.
Did this one have abs ?? I'm replacing all 4 of mine for a set cost and I dont see any wire harness anywhere it's a 2004 awd 2.2 theres a place for the abs light but it's never came on when turning over the key I've seen some with the abs trying to figure out which ones to buy !!! Thanks in advance !!!
Use a clamp to push in the caliper piston and never twist the caliper due to the disk pads being ceramic and fragile. You may crack the disk pad . Also a little penetrating oil on the bolts which makes all the difference when removing these bolts. use a bearing puller and quit beating on the hub.. Use antiseize on the splines as you indicate, makes later life better.
So i get the bearing out but no greese on this shaft so its still welded to the dam bearing.. I hate vue's.. Everything ive done to this car and its been a lot since its pushing 300k.. Has been a PIA.. Nothing goes as intended..
I used a 36 in. 3/4 inch drive breaker bar and 34mm socket (I believe 1 5/16 in. is the equivalent in SAE measurement). Still took a lot of Armstrong straining to get it loose, also drown the axle nut in liquid wrench, WD40, etc., let it sit for a while before attempting to loosen.
Bro, try to get in the habit of telling us the socket sizes you're using. That would help greatly. The only one I remember you mentioning was the CV shaft nut.
thank you i was going to do the same video but you cover everything already. thru my experience GET a BIGGER HAMMER those bearings are tight with rust you have to really hit them hard forget the slide hammer that won't work . also to those cheap guys DO NOT EVER BUY those cheap 40 dollar bearings you see on e bay i had to replace my Chinese bearings within 2 years both sides.
PB blaster... a gud puller.. n a lift... u'd been done alot faster. But a gud job nun the less. Like the torque technique, most folks just dont get it.👍 Wen n doubt.. use a bigger hammer
Never let your caliper hang by the brake line, buy a hub puller, makes this way easier, but other than that great job! Know how many people work without a jackstand? Glad to see you do safety first, most important! 👍 Oh yeah, you need to learn torque pattern.
Erik Lucas I could tell you've done this a lot before haha. Idk but seeing the caliper just hang there made me cringe a little. But you know what you're doing
I have been working on mine for 2 nights after work. hammer, sledge hammer front and back, 5# slide hammer have not worked. PB blaster whenever i can. Im going carefully to try a chisel or use some 1/2 bolts (through the wheel stud hole) and nuts to press the flange against the knuckle.
Another night of endless pounding and im still a young guy. The bearing flange is totally mangled now, lol. The only way is to remove the knuckle and bring to a shop that has a 20+ Ton press and charge me more $$$$. I gave in an ordered a new knuckle from ebay, $50 as well as a new Moog ball joint since it will be impossible to salvage the old one if removing the whole knuckle. PLenty of Anti-Sieze will be applies for future bearing failures.
YOU SAVED MY ASS TODAY!!! I busted a 3 jaw puller trying to get that bastard off as well! I had to think a few minutes about the prop a rod thing and power steering to figure out what you were saying.... I had a perfect rod, it was the 18" or so tubular steel jack handle for my small hydraulic jack. I used another jack stand to hold the rod against the carriage frame for the engine. WOW, the pressure was immense and it still wouldn't budge... Finally I pulled hard enough on the steering wheel and BAM! It flew right outta there. Once I looked at the aluminum carrier, I realized it was bimetallic corrosion that was causing the sticking problem. I had spent over an hour with crowbars, big screwdrivers, hammers, a puller (think I could've broke something with this pushing the cv axle so hard)... even a torch! But the power steering trick is PURE GENIUS! Had it out in less than a minute! The one thing I'll note though, if I ever did this again I would put a piece of plywood up against the transmission because if that damned rod had slipped 'up', it probably would have knocked a hole right in the aluminum case. As an avid diy guy and overall McGuyver myself, I salute you for the brilliance of the power steering trick! Thank you thank you thank you! You saved me from a lot of headache as well as an approaching thunderstorm! Jeez I'll tell ya, I had to click a lot of 'read reply' to find this one though. Good thing I was about to get a sledge and beat the car to death. :^) So hell go read ALL of the comments instead... had nothing to lose! Thanks so much for the time of answering these posts! You are a freaking GENIUS!
Once you grab onto the nut with a long handle torque wrench the entire car will move if its on the ground. The only thing holding fast is the parking pawl in the transmission, which assisted by the ebrake will help. Your mileage will vary. Shit tons of foot pounds of torque require a back-stop, and a wheel sitting on the ground doesn't help.
I have a 2002 Saturn Sl1. I got into an accident. Thought it was mostly Body damage, Driver's side Fender was obliterated & Huge Dent & scratches on the corner Bumper cover. A Replacement fender was put on & all the dents were Fixed with a heat gun. The Scratches remain. The problem is the unibody & hood was pushed over 2 inches And my car makes horrible clunking sounds Only on both right passenger side wheels when I turn car on and whenever I have to shift gears. What could be wrong with it? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Ty
Erik Lucas It drives ok & the wheel is straight. It's just that noise & it jars the car when it happens. Plus the Damage to the Unibody & hood is visible so something had to have gotten pushed over & broke. I'm having it looked at tomorrow. I hope it isn't something serious.
Erik Lucas You were right, It was the sway bar. It was fixed today. Now all that's left is the body damage which my uncle & I will work on. I'm grateful it wasn't something serious.
Erik Lucas I plan to. The clunking noise has returned, mainly back rear right tire. My mechanic fixed the sway bar for free which was very nice of him. But he said 1 of my bushings is slightly bent but should be ok to drive. I dunno, I'm nervous now.. Could a bushing cause that clunking sound? Only happens when I turn car on & shift in reverse, intermittent though. It was fine for a few days now it's back. Ugh... My uncle is a Body guy & mechanic, so I gotta wait for him to look at it in our garage when he feels better.
Bout to make 70 bucks doing this job lol I thought it was gonna be a press bearing but this is so easy. But 70 bucks is fair. 50 for the job and 20 for gas.
Shop rates are different wherever you go. I'd charge 1.5 hours x whatever your rate. $60 an hour seems good for my area. If you goto bc then I'd charge $80 an hour, maybe more. Shop rate there is $200 an hour or something. This is Canadian dollars
$75 hr minimum 2 hr charge for this job 1 side both sides add 1 more hr since car is already up in the air , so both would be $225 plus parts , and I will usually let customers get their own parts if they wish , if I get them I only charge %10 over for my time and putting out my money
Now my trick is to hit a stud out and use a nut and bolt. basically the same thing. but dont alternate, just run that bolt down till it falls off. if you alternate you will just pull the hub face off and then your in for a treat lol
There should be plenty of video's covering the 2.2l ecotec water pump already. You will need to buy a special tool to hold the gear, the budget version is cheap.
D.C... could you please expand on the tool you noted for holding the gear. Is it something for the timing position or an orientation on the water pump itself must be held? Changed my timing chains/balance rods, also the crank bearing and the WP (since the engine was open) but didn't watch any instructionals for the WP, only the timing elements. Just wanna be sure I'm not missing anything important. Im new to Saturns. I'm a hobbyist/novice mechanic. Bought this (2005 Vue 2.2 eco 5 speed) for a song from a couple eager to be rid of it, with what they described as expensive 'ignition timing' issues. The SES was lit. It did drive home (rough) but after opening it up I'm surprised it did. Timing chain was flopping around like a wet noodle, slack on the release side of every gear in there. I examined everything I could think of that was related and replaced as I thought best. The vehicle is running fine since the work (3500+miles, encompassing a few -0 temp periods) but I'm curious, in your opinion are there any other areas of the vehicle you'd recommend I look at or pay special attention to given the likely (dubious) lubrication history and other unknowns? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
Look for "Lisle 13800 Water Pump Sprocket Holder" on amazon/ebay. There are cheaper generic tools also. It holds the gear in place from the front while you remove the pump from the back. The timing chain up until 2003 I believe did have a restrictive timing chain oiler which starved the chain at idle. If your 05 chain was that bad then someone likely didn't keep up with the oil. The front engine cradle mounts on the chassis need to have a hole drilled in them on the inside bottom of the pinch weld so they can drain. The holes for the cradle bolt nuts need sealed over (good tape or fiberglass) as well to keep water out. Calcium and Sodium chloride deicers are much more aggressive than sodium chloride which makes the cradle mounts rot out faster.
I didn't see anything that "scared me", but I've never met a real "Saturn Mechanic" only GM certified and I'd never take my vehicles to a dealer shop, unless it was under warranty or recall, my 03 vue is under recall for the ignition, so I'll take it in. Saturn Mechanics like to over tighten bolts and don't know the purpose of anti-seize....
Knock out 2 of the wheel studs that correspond to a solid section of the hub axle assembly, use a section of ready rod or a long bolt as a jacking screw.
Place a nut & washer onto the bolt after slipping the bolt into the missing stud holes.
You may need to place a section of steel plate where the bolt contacts the hub axle assembly.
Use the 2 bolts & nuts to jack the hub assembly out of the hub bore.
Works very well, I figured this out after spending two days trying to remove the wheel hub from my son's FWD GMC pickup truck.
good advice! since I filmed this video I built something similar.
Just finished doing this on my 05 Vue, 4cyl 5spd manual, 277,000 mi. No power tools here, had to use a 3/4 in breaker bar with a 34 mm socket to get axle nut removed. The left front wheel hub assembly went a lot easier than the right front. Replacing left front did not get rid of the horrific grinding sounds. Two days later, right front removal. Had to pound it as you did on this video. Finally broke loose. Anti seize on the hub threads, axle nut and brake caliper bolts. Thanks for sharing your experience and endeavor. The right front replacement got rid of all of the noise, thankfully. Thanks again for sharing. Nice to have my Saturn back quiet traveling down the roadways.
always break the axle nut while the wheel is still on and on the ground.
Well that helps for sure. But a skrewdriver in the rotor cooling fins is my goto method if the impact isn't working,
Your the man, done correctly, a lot of work taking off, if never removed, original OEM part.
Great job, your video does't suck. Short sweet and too the point, the best Ive ever seen.Thanks for the help
Hell ya brother that’s a good trick on the brake calipers !
I have a suggestion for you for getting the old assembly off. Get a straight claw hammer & put the claw end on where the assembly meets the knuckle & tap on the head of the hammer.. work your way around & it will loosen the assembly.
Thank you for sharing this video! I’m not much of a car guy but will get it done if need be. I hate the time it takes, I’m not a patient person!! But I do appreciate this as I am going to do this tomorrow morning for my 04, about how long did this take you to finish? And as for an amateur like myself, how long do you think it’ll take ??
Folks if you come here finding it almost impossible to get the hub out of the carrier, look below at Sparta's comment below "Lucky yours came off easy" and click read replies. Called the power steering trick. It can be hazardous, but it saved me hours of pounding, got that sucker out in less than a minute or so! No I would never recommend anyone try this... lol. But it worked in my case today. Saved my butt!
Nice video, good to speed it up as needed!
that axle nut tho. damn. those are always a pain. is there a press to pull the bearing hub or just go at it a hammer?
The easy way to do this is to take the whole hub off and knock the bearing out from the back. You will save time and knuckles, I tried this method and it wasn't very effective. Taking the whole thing off isn't hard and really saves time.
Did this one have abs ?? I'm replacing all 4 of mine for a set cost and I dont see any wire harness anywhere it's a 2004 awd 2.2 theres a place for the abs light but it's never came on when turning over the key I've seen some with the abs trying to figure out which ones to buy !!! Thanks in advance !!!
No this was a non abs model, the replacement should have a wire if you have abs
Use a clamp to push in the caliper piston and never twist the caliper due to the disk pads being ceramic and fragile. You may crack the disk pad . Also a little penetrating oil on the bolts which makes all the difference when removing these bolts. use a bearing puller and quit beating on the hub.. Use antiseize on the splines as you indicate, makes later life better.
So i get the bearing out but no greese on this shaft so its still welded to the dam bearing.. I hate vue's.. Everything ive done to this car and its been a lot since its pushing 300k.. Has been a PIA.. Nothing goes as intended..
Is having an impact ranch necessary to takee off axel nut?
I used a 36 in. 3/4 inch drive breaker bar and 34mm socket (I believe 1 5/16 in. is the equivalent in SAE measurement).
Still took a lot of Armstrong straining to get it loose, also drown the axle nut in liquid wrench, WD40, etc., let it sit for a while before attempting to loosen.
Bro, try to get in the habit of telling us the socket sizes you're using. That would help greatly. The only one I remember you mentioning was the CV shaft nut.
thank you i was going to do the same video but you cover everything already. thru my experience GET a BIGGER HAMMER those bearings are tight with rust you have to really hit them hard forget the slide hammer that won't work . also to those cheap guys DO NOT EVER BUY those cheap 40 dollar bearings you see on e bay i had to replace my Chinese bearings within 2 years both sides.
PB blaster... a gud puller.. n a lift... u'd been done alot faster. But a gud job nun the less. Like the torque technique, most folks just dont get it.👍 Wen n doubt.. use a bigger hammer
Do a video of doing a rear AWD Saturn Vue
+erik lucas how many miles automatic or manual
You couldn't just leave the brake on the rotor?
I need the muffler bearing replaced ! Can you do that ?
It helps if you have a HEAVY DUTY tweedle wrench.yes
Thanks for sharing!
great how to, feel like i could do it hahaha (this is cliffrod)
Never let your caliper hang by the brake line, buy a hub puller, makes this way easier, but other than that great job! Know how many people work without a jackstand? Glad to see you do safety first, most important! 👍
Oh yeah, you need to learn torque pattern.
Should realllllly use a bungee cord to hold the caliper when you take it off the router so all the weight isn't on the brake line
Erik Lucas
I could tell you've done this a lot before haha. Idk but seeing the caliper just hang there made me cringe a little. But you know what you're doing
so far so good lol. I didn't notice anything while driving hhaha
Lucky yours came off easy.
I have been working on mine for 2 nights after work. hammer, sledge hammer front and back, 5# slide hammer have not worked. PB blaster whenever i can. Im going carefully to try a chisel or use some 1/2 bolts (through the wheel stud hole) and nuts to press the flange against the knuckle.
Another night of endless pounding and im still a young guy. The bearing flange is totally mangled now, lol. The only way is to remove the knuckle and bring to a shop that has a 20+ Ton press and charge me more $$$$. I gave in an ordered a new knuckle from ebay, $50 as well as a new Moog ball joint since it will be impossible to salvage the old one if removing the whole knuckle. PLenty of Anti-Sieze will be applies for future bearing failures.
YOU SAVED MY ASS TODAY!!! I busted a 3 jaw puller trying to get that bastard off as well! I had to think a few minutes about the prop a rod thing and power steering to figure out what you were saying.... I had a perfect rod, it was the 18" or so tubular steel jack handle for my small hydraulic jack.
I used another jack stand to hold the rod against the carriage frame for the engine. WOW, the pressure was immense and it still wouldn't budge... Finally I pulled hard enough on the steering wheel and BAM! It flew right outta there. Once I looked at the aluminum carrier, I realized it was bimetallic corrosion that was causing the sticking problem. I had spent over an hour with crowbars, big screwdrivers, hammers, a puller (think I could've broke something with this pushing the cv axle so hard)... even a torch!
But the power steering trick is PURE GENIUS! Had it out in less than a minute!
The one thing I'll note though, if I ever did this again I would put a piece of plywood up against the transmission because if that damned rod had slipped 'up', it probably would have knocked a hole right in the aluminum case. As an avid diy guy and overall McGuyver myself, I salute you for the brilliance of the power steering trick!
Thank you thank you thank you! You saved me from a lot of headache as well as an approaching thunderstorm! Jeez I'll tell ya, I had to click a lot of 'read reply' to find this one though. Good thing I was about to get a sledge and beat the car to death. :^) So hell go read ALL of the comments instead... had nothing to lose!
Thanks so much for the time of answering these posts! You are a freaking GENIUS!
Explain! I know it's been six years but, come back DRYAN AND EXPLAIN@@dryan8377
Shouldn't the axle nut be torqued under load, meaning with the tire on the ground?
Only thing you want to torque under load is maybe control arm bushings on a vehicle not CV axle nor wheel hubs. Just torque to specs
The extra 180 is because of shit like aluminum. It's also why we can't have nice things. Heh. SMH.
Once you grab onto the nut with a long handle torque wrench the entire car will move if its on the ground. The only thing holding fast is the parking pawl in the transmission, which assisted by the ebrake will help. Your mileage will vary. Shit tons of foot pounds of torque require a back-stop, and a wheel sitting on the ground doesn't help.
I have a 2002 Saturn Sl1. I got into an accident. Thought it was mostly Body damage, Driver's side Fender was obliterated & Huge Dent & scratches on the corner Bumper cover. A Replacement fender was put on & all the dents were Fixed with a heat gun. The Scratches remain. The problem is the unibody & hood was pushed over 2 inches And my car makes horrible clunking sounds Only on both right passenger side wheels when I turn car on and whenever I have to shift gears. What could be wrong with it? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Ty
Erik Lucas It drives ok & the wheel is straight. It's just that noise & it jars the car when it happens. Plus the Damage to the Unibody & hood is visible so something had to have gotten pushed over & broke. I'm having it looked at tomorrow. I hope it isn't something serious.
Erik Lucas Thank you. I will keep you updated 🖒
Erik Lucas You were right, It was the sway bar. It was fixed today. Now all that's left is the body damage which my uncle & I will work on. I'm grateful it wasn't something serious.
Erik Lucas I plan to. The clunking noise has returned, mainly back rear right tire. My mechanic fixed the sway bar for free which was very nice of him. But he said 1 of my bushings is slightly bent but should be ok to drive. I dunno, I'm nervous now.. Could a bushing cause that clunking sound? Only happens when I turn car on & shift in reverse, intermittent though. It was fine for a few days now it's back. Ugh... My uncle is a Body guy & mechanic, so I gotta wait for him to look at it in our garage when he feels better.
Bout to make 70 bucks doing this job lol
I thought it was gonna be a press bearing but this is so easy.
But 70 bucks is fair. 50 for the job and 20 for gas.
Shop rates are different wherever you go. I'd charge 1.5 hours x whatever your rate. $60 an hour seems good for my area. If you goto bc then I'd charge $80 an hour, maybe more. Shop rate there is $200 an hour or something. This is Canadian dollars
$75 hr minimum 2 hr charge for this job 1 side both sides add 1 more hr since car is already up in the air , so both would be $225 plus parts , and I will usually let customers get their own parts if they wish , if I get them I only charge %10 over for my time and putting out my money
The next time you try to knock it off instead drill and tap a hole in hub on edge 1/2 inch turn bolt in to touch knuckle bingo Off
Now my trick is to hit a stud out and use a nut and bolt. basically the same thing. but dont alternate, just run that bolt down till it falls off. if you alternate you will just pull the hub face off and then your in for a treat lol
Lmfao nice gasket, quess it doesn't matter
STAY WITH REPLACING MUFFLER BEARINGS. THATS ABOUT YOUR SPEED.
Sorry but sometimes using a bigger hammer uses less work . But a very nice video
For the love of mechanics go buy a gear puller or rent one. Or two slide hammers on the wheel studs.
Slide hammer is your friend
Not with a Saturn vue. All it’ll do is give you a sore shoulder.
can you do a saturn vue 2.2 water pump please
thank you!
Erik Lucas Add me to the others! 😉
There should be plenty of video's covering the 2.2l ecotec water pump already. You will need to buy a special tool to hold the gear, the budget version is cheap.
D.C... could you please expand on the tool you noted for holding the gear. Is it something for the timing position or an orientation on the water pump itself must be held? Changed my timing chains/balance rods, also the crank bearing and the WP (since the engine was open) but didn't watch any instructionals for the WP, only the timing elements. Just wanna be sure I'm not missing anything important. Im new to Saturns. I'm a hobbyist/novice mechanic. Bought this (2005 Vue 2.2 eco 5 speed) for a song from a couple eager to be rid of it, with what they described as expensive 'ignition timing' issues. The SES was lit. It did drive home (rough) but after opening it up I'm surprised it did. Timing chain was flopping around like a wet noodle, slack on the release side of every gear in there. I examined everything I could think of that was related and replaced as I thought best. The vehicle is running fine since the work (3500+miles, encompassing a few -0 temp periods) but I'm curious, in your opinion are there any other areas of the vehicle you'd recommend I look at or pay special attention to given the likely (dubious) lubrication history and other unknowns? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
Look for "Lisle 13800 Water Pump Sprocket Holder" on amazon/ebay. There are cheaper generic tools also.
It holds the gear in place from the front while you remove the pump from the back.
The timing chain up until 2003 I believe did have a restrictive timing chain oiler which starved the chain at idle. If your 05 chain was that bad then someone likely didn't keep up with the oil.
The front engine cradle mounts on the chassis need to have a hole drilled in them on the inside bottom of the pinch weld so they can drain. The holes for the cradle bolt nuts need sealed over (good tape or fiberglass) as well to keep water out. Calcium and Sodium chloride deicers are much more aggressive than sodium chloride which makes the cradle mounts rot out faster.
You scare me i was a Saturn mechanic from 1991 to 2010 everything you did was wrong.
I didn't see anything that "scared me", but I've never met a real "Saturn Mechanic" only GM
certified and I'd never take my vehicles to a dealer shop, unless it was under warranty or
recall, my 03 vue is under recall for the ignition, so I'll take it in. Saturn Mechanics like to
over tighten bolts and don't know the purpose of anti-seize....
I'm trying t ok get bearing hub off. Can't I've beat the shit out of it. Any easier way
A puller would've saved a lot of time and energy.
No it won’t.
Yeah I'm thinking a slide hammer.
Did one side awhile back. I would hit it on one side while my buddy hit it in the other side to get it off. Pain in the ass
Can you do me a favor? please show more of you in the video 😁⚡️👌
Erik Lucas 😅😉😊
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