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Low Producing Well?? No problem! How to install a reservoir
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- Опубліковано 11 січ 2023
- This video details complete installation of our low-producing well reservoir kit, found here: www.rainbrothe... .
If your well produces some water (say, 2 GPM) but just not enough water to run your indoor fixtures, a reservoir tank/cistern is the key! Here's how to install one!
This is an excellent video. Would be nice to have one that shows how the water pipe connections are made into the storage tank and how the float is mounted inside the tank, etc. I have the Littelfuse Pump Saver and it is an outstanding device for this. Thanks!
Great suggestion!
Thank you, very well explained.
Have not installed a PumpSaver yet (running well pump manually) but did the rest of this last summer. Such a relief having 2000+ gallons in reserve, and the springer pump is working great!
Hopefully all the water this winter will provide for my well next spring. If not then I might need a pump saver for 2hp 240v pump. Either that or switch to a smaller pump. Or maybe I'll finally work my way to the top of the well drillers' list and I can shell out $$$$$ for a new well. Hmm.
Great vid... Can I wire this the same way with a regular control box? I have same set up but its for irrigation.. Thnk u!!
Hi - happy to help but I’m not quite sure what you mean. A control box is simply a box that houses the pump’s start capacitor. Control boxes do not function as the PumpSaver would. If you are installing our system on a pump with a control box, you would need to install the PumpSaver between the electrical panel and the control box, before the additional yellow wire comes into play
Great Video. I will check out the kit. Please tell me what you think. SITUATION: I have a well that is 205' deep and pump that was originally set at 195' and well head after a year was ran over by heavy equip and it was noticed that well down pipe stayed where it was and did not fall. (well filling with sand) pump was pulled up to 185'. Current output is 10gpm for about 7-8 mins or until the well runs dry. Water is spring-like except for having fine sand occasionally that has to be filtered. USE: We are man and wife...20-30gal shower 1-2 a day, washer 10-15 gal couple times a day, flushing toilets..etc..3k - 5k gallons a month. MOST RECENT SETUP: Have 1/2hp pump 220v at depth, 1-1/4" sched80 pvc to pitless adapter to pressure tank 20g (holds far less) then to house filter and supply, 1st floor home. I want to have the water I need sometimes to put in pool as well but can NOT run well continuously. OPTION A: Just set up as it is but use an 80-100gal pressure tank. As drawdown occurs putting 50-60 gals of water back into pressure tank is not a problem. Or, OPTION B: Your Low Producing Well Kit. With a reservoir tank approaching 200gal. This would allow for a much higher volume of water with a high pressure/volume pump in the resevoir to provide city-like water pressure and volume to the home and at the same time giving me the option of adding 100-200 gal of water to my pool should it need it. Can you compare/contrast the 2 options and price the items. I am a DIY person and would buy all of the equipment from your company and install myself. Tks
If you want more versatility in your water system, the reservoir tank is the way to go. It really makes it so that you never have to worry about your water supply. The components are not expensive and all pricing and layout drawings can be found on our website ( www.rainbrothers.com ) or follow links in the description. You could always start with a larger pressure tank and see how that does for you but the reservoir is the best long term solution.
Curious as to your explanation video not clear on how to hook up system so that both pumps can never be on at same time... And how water coming from reservoir can never be pumped back into well. And.. follow to your bigger pressure tank vs reservoir and maybe comparing for me and others a reservoir setup with 20gal pressure tank vs same reservoir setup with the larger presser talk and how one would provide more or less water pressure/volume tks
I'm considering a reservoir tank system at my home and have heard that it isn't good to run the well down to the bottom of the well. Would you recommend adding either a timer or a flow control valve to match the well's production rate in order to keep the water as close to the top of the table as possible?
Thanks for writing. Well pumps are never set at the bottom of the well, so if your concern is that you’d be sucking up sediment/sludge, it’s not likely to happen unless your well has high levels to begin with. However, a timer can be a useful addition to a reservoir system. Currently, we do not sell timers, but Intermatic makes good timers for 230V motors.
Would the pumpsaver then replace/eliminate a controll box for the original well pump? Or if you have a control box would it rewuire additional wiring? Thanks
EXCELLENT question! We get this question all the time, and I regret not mentioning it in the video. A control box serves a different function than a PumpSaver. The control box houses external start and run capacitors (which are needed for what are called “3-wire pumps”, as opposed to “2-wire pumps” which have the capacitors built into the pump itself). You still need a control box if you have one already, but control boxes do nothing for run-dry protection, so you also need a PumpSaver. The PumpSaver should be installed between the electrical panel and the control box to eliminate confusion because, after the control box,
there is an additional wire in the system
Do the plastic tanks leave a taste in the water? Will a charcoal filter remove it?
They can, at least initially. Yes, this filter kit would neutralize taste and odor: www.rainbrothers.com/store/20-x-4-5-Two-Stage-Filter-Housing-Kit-p520835221
How do you setup storage tank pump to keep it from unthreading itself when it starts up?
If you use one of our pumps (link in the description), you’d be using a pump that is specifically designed for holding tanks. It does not have enough torque to unthread itself even slightly
Multiple questions...... 1. Can the incoming water line from the Well going to the Reservoir Tank be connected at the middle or bottom of the tank instead of at the top? 2. If the incoming line has to be at the top of the tank, is it generally noisy when it is filling (ie, hearing rushing water flowing into the tank)? 3. Can the 1" IPS Poly water line be connected through the 1" tank penetration gasket and form a waterproof connection, or do I need some type of adapter (ie PVC) to go through the tank penetration gasket and then connect the 1"IPS Poly otthe PVC?? Thank you
Hi there - thanks for the questions:
1) It’s best to bring the pipe in to the top of the tank
2) To reduce noise, you can plumb the pipe down 90 degrees and have it run to the bottom of the tank once the pipe is run into the top of the tank
3) It is best to use PVC to run thru the tank penetration gaskets and then adapt to poly IPS.
Hope this helps!
@@rainbrothers Thank you, I will be ordering your kit and tank shortly
For the new pump inside your holding tank, is that just a regular low horsepower submersible well pump or some other lighter duty pump that is needed just as long as it produces enough PSI to pressurize the tank when it gets the call?
We actually use a pump that is specifically designed for holding tanks/cisterns. It is a pump we developed: www.rainbrothers.com/store/Springer-Series-1-2HP-TRADITIONAL-Cistern-Pump-p461750607
@@rainbrothers Thank you. My sister needs something like this system so I referred her to this video and your products. Appreciate the response.
This looks like it could be wired without adding a breaker. Looks like you would need to splice the wires from the breaker to the pump saver and the pressure switch
If you’re following electrical code (which we recommend), each pump needs to be on its own circuit/breaker.
1 more terminal on the terminal block with a jumper would mean no wire nut. 1 less point of failure
Very true! We don’t manufacture the boards so it’s out of our hands unfortunately