My Chevy had a similar symptom. Redid the entire valve train, no change. Used a mechanic's stethoscope to trace the noise source. AHA! Noise was coming from the bell housing area at roughly the same height as the lifters. Turns out it was the bronze pilot bushing mounted in the block, which accepts the nose of the tranny input shaft. Replaced that bushing again after a thoroughly intensive cleanout of the bore hole it sits in. Lubed it up with a heavy duty moly grease, and FINALLY the "lifter" noise at rear of the block went away for good.
Brother i came back to thank you! The 383 in my Chevelle had the same problem. It drove me nuts I didnt know what else to check for like a year man I readjusted the valves like a mad man over and over, replaced the fuel pump, did a million compression test you name and it turned out to be the the pilot bushjng too. I figured i pull the transmission to check and while i am at it a new clutch would be in order as it was getting worn out. Anyway thank you very much man! Stay up!
For noisy lifters use GM EOS Engine Oil Suppliment. In the 60’s and 70’s GM set customers lifters to 3/4 of a turn down after the clatter went away when your loosening the nut while the engine is running so customers would not come back complaining about noise. For Performace you want a 1/2 turn. You can increase oil pressure by going to 1 wt heavier oil. If you can’t push down on the rocker arm then you have solid lifters and need to be set them with a feeler gauge.
Bye the way others are going to there local salvage and getting old valve covers. They are cutting the top of the covers and putting them on the car then make the adjust the valves from there. No mess 🤔😁
FYI I had a 93 GMC Sierra with a 350 and went all through it and still had a tick. Come to find out it was the power steering pump going out but the seal was not leaking. I changed it out and awesome no more tick. Was a mess but found it.
Just be glad you don’t have a tbi. The injectors are loud enough to hear in the cab. It’s almost impossible for me to locate another tick/knock I have..
@@bluecloudbuildersl.l.c.par9738 It depends what your definition of "neccesary" is. I implement full manifold vacuum on all my classic cars and trucks. Without lengthy explanation, vacuum advance optimises combustion at partial throttle (with sufficient levels of vacuum). "Idle" is ALSO a partial throttle condition. It only happens to be at idle speed. My "proof" is simple. Apply manifold vacuum at idle. Idle speed increases. Why? Combustion is more efficient at idle speed with vacuum advance. As soon as you step on the gas, vacuum mostly drops away and centrifugal advance determines timing, until vacuum develops (at partial throttle) and vacuum advance is added on top of whatever centrifugal advance exist already.
What I learned is loosen the nut all the way loose. Then twist the pushrod with your fingers and tighten down the nut until you feel a little bit of drag like the rocker and lifter is beginning to wheeze on the rod. Then you do a full half turn on nut with wrench, tighten Allen nut screw in till it touches, then grab both wrench and Allen and tighten together till tight
Lol chevy.. i had similar issues with my 350 in my boat. The best way to make sure your lifters are good is to oil them up and test the preload before install. The other noise that could be confused for lifter tick is if your timing chain is loose or your distributor drive gear is wearing out.. on my bayliner 350 it was distributor gear luckily..
Hi Mike, since this video I have changed out the cam and lifters. No more noise. Not sure exactly what was making the noise but was one of those things...
Mike i may have this problem ive been having a serious lack of power going uphill especially, but today doing 75 On my way to 80, shit got wicked, he began to sputter, not accelerate, i held it at 60 and got off the eway but then the ticking began. I drove it back home and no more ticking but the loss of power is still present
Good crankshaft bearing is where good oil pressure comes from and when it comes to installing lifters if there not bleed deeped in oil and then installed you got a future problem
That's probably true. After I did the last cam swap I just did 1/2 turn and all is good so far. On this setup I did everything from 1/4 turn to 1 full turn and it didn't seem to make too much difference. Everyone kind of says something different for this but 1/2 seems to be working good for me.
I've worked on SBC engines since late 60s as a teenager. The only difference I've seen is if they aren't one full turn, they don't get enough oil to the rocker arms. Even if it has perfect oil pressure.
One full turn down is cold adjustment you don't want to do that while it's running it will cause internal damage back out to it just begins to tap turn it in until it stops and then 1/4 turn down while it's running I have been adjusting small block Chevrolet motors this way for over 30 years and it works every time
You have one of 3 issues, bad/weak oil pressure regulator spring if there is one at all, incorrect bearings: con rod bearings, main bearings or cam bushings which will cause that low oil pressure when hot at idle, last but not least a sticking or failing valve/lifter. Start with the lifter then, valves and if you need to pull the pan and check your con rod and main bearings for wear issues or too much bearing/oil clearance. People that say the ticking is normal are absolutely incorrect, unless you have fuel injectors which ALL fuel injectors tick while firing. Always set your valves according to the manufacturers specifications, if a noise continues there is something that need correct adjustment or investigated for a correct repair. Just because parts are new or a rebuild is just completed means nothing, parts are know to be faulty right out of the box or failed due to incorrect assembly or adjustment, PERIOD. The backyard mechanic or driveway mechanic way of doing things might work in some cases but, certainly always follow the manufacturers service manual for assembly, adjustment and repair. ANYTHING ELSE IS NEVER GOOD BUT OFTEN DONE OUT OF IGNORANCE TO CORRECT PROCEDURE AND SPECIFICATIONS.
GM came out with a Technical service update in the late 70's that states small and big block chevys should never have the valves adjusted when the engine is running because it does irreversable damage to the cam and lifters it actually takes years of life off of a cam way to much pressure on lobes and lifter bottoms anyone who adjusteds these valves with the engine running is just plain doing it wrong
Cool. I gotta look into it. I have a feeling my truck is mis adjusted. The service manual I got 67 thru 84 manual says to run it but when I do that I get misfiring and the carb has been adjust and good because its not as bad. I heard if valves are adjusted to tight it can cause it to misfire
Don’t be scared of it back it off let her click, ease it in until it stops. Do them all this way then you can go back and do a 1/4,1/2,3/4 of a turn. Can’t be scared of it, you’ll know if u back them off too far they get loud lol. Another trick is to take a junk set of valve covers if h have any laying around and drill holes in them or cut the center out to access the lifter nuts for mess free adjustment. Also another tip is to remove the rocker arm nuts with engine off and dimple or slight cremp the top of the rocker arm nut so the nut won’t back off, a lot of people don’t realize this but the rocker arm nuts are theoretically “one time use”. Not meant to back off and run in more than a few times. Just my 2 cents take it like a grain of salt. Another option is to Drain a quart of oil out then top it back off with a quart of desiel fuel, fire it up let it idle for 20-30 min around 800 or 1000 rpm. Do not put engine under load during this procedure. Then drain and add new filter and oil. This should help flush out sludge from pushrods etc.
Your response to my response got sent to my email. At first I didn’t like it but now realize that you are watching your followers responses and that’s a good thing! The problem for me is thing only way I to respond back is on You tube!
My question is could it be in need of an oil change? I’m not sure if this is valid but I read something about bad lifters saying that changing the oil could help with the tick. A lighter alternative before or having to replace the lifters. I have the same situation with my 350 but I haven’t gotten around to changing my oil YET.
Lol I like the cardboard method but that’s no way to adjust valves running tighten them up till it messes on each cylinder back them off. One have turned just tighten them up. You’ll hear it start to miss them back them up 1/2 turn there’s a perfect.
U could tell just by watching the video that the 3rd lifter from the back was not operating the same as all the others. Its movement was not the same as the others. When u loosened the first one u duplicated that movement and then corrected it by retightening.
Mine will idle quiet, but if I Blip the throttle will hear slight knocking of Lifter. So, to really see if you resolved this while adjusting - blip the throttle, see if noise is totally gone.
Hey I’m from greenleaf Idaho . I’m rebuilding a 4 bolt main and my lifters won’t pump up after rebuilding. They were pumping and primed just fine before the install. Any clues to what my problem is? Thanks
@@meridian208 no idea yet . I’ll have to get an oil pressure gauge to the oil sending port . I kept priming and was able to get oil up to all the rockers except for four valves it might be blockage somewhere. Are there ways of knowing for sure? Thanks for replying!
check the oil pickup try to see if you have some kind of clog or build up in the bottom run some atf or diesel /kerosene in the oil and drain it out and fresh slightly thicker like 10-w40
Dear Friend .. Can I PLEASE HELP YOU OUT ??????????? My God I need to know who told you that was the correct way to adjust the lash out of Hydraulic valve lifter's ? If you have some ticking going on under the valve cover I might ask how many miles are on the valve train . There is really only one fool proof way to set lifter pre-load and it requires you to follow the engine firing order and adjust each one when the intake Or exhaust is on the bottom of the lifter lobe ..now depending on what my Oil pressure is at hot idle I might go as far as to install a MV55 Melling pump for added oil security ...I've been a motorhead all my life and I've NEVER ran any engine to adjust lifter pre-load because there was NEVER any reason to do so...hell some people still use the push rod twist method which works as well ...but that is more easily accomplished when the intake Manifold is NOT installed .Let me know if I can help ..Good luck..
yeah this was mostly a last resort method. When I initially built the motor I had the intake off and adjusted the lash using the firing order method as you mentioned. I had only put 3000 miles on the motor but kept chasing the lifter noise the whole time. I set it to 1/2 turn lash, 3/4 turn lash, adjusting with it running. Nothing seemed to fix it. I have since changed out the cam and lifters and did the firing order lash adjustment with 1/2 turn. Have 500 miles on new setup and no weird noises anymore. I also haven't had to readjust or anything either, runs mint now. I think one of the original lifters I had was bleeding off pressure or something and making a strange noise. They were some no name lifters that came in a rebuild kit I got. New ones are from comp and seem way better.
those clips make for periods of entertainment as you search and search for where they landed when they left the rocker arm. One little rev and they leave the scene. lol
If that is idle with the cam you have, go ahead an lower it at the idle screw. It will stay running, just somewhat rough. I on choke fast idle cam can be knocked to idle. To listen for noise like exhaust leak, use a 3-4' length of heater hose to your ear. Use a 2' long screwdriver on the rocker arm cover, this will put you close to the rocker that makes noise. Keep in mind, lifter bored can be odd oversized from factory lifters if replaced. Also, spring should be measured while apart and checked with specs. Auto front pump leaks if at seal, require good oversized drain back hole behind the seal, a quality seal with trans-gel holding garder spring in place plus use a retainer from Delco to hold the seal in. DK, ASE master tech since 78.
Lifter noise is not only the majority of oil pump it’s a lifter ready to collapse it will shoot oil over 3-4 inches had that experience replace lifters problem solved Learn from old timer mechanic if it got more then 150 k meaning it going to happen at high rpm usually Is number 1 2 8 lifters that go first Then it starves the rest of lifters Due to excessive oil shooting out
They are spark plug wire heat sleaves. I got them from an oreilleys but I imagine you can get them from any auto parts store. Or even amazon and summit
I am very interested in what he’s doing but watched his shoulder more than anything! Maybe a camera overhead or something like that! All in all very good video, although I think his engine sounds better than mine!🧐
Kind of depends I guess. Even after I have changed cam/lifters in this motor it still idles around like 10-15lbs of pressure and when driving its around 30-40lbs. I talked to an old circle track guy the other day and he said 350's will still run practically forever on very little oil pressure so idk. Seems to be working pretty good so far.
Oil rail thru the lifter housing 1 7 2 8 is the most important which keeps maintain oil pressure thru lifters Waisting your time good luck I’m a Chevy man rebuild many seen many try to do the same it will happen again I’ve clean it out with ATF 3 quarts 2 quarts of 5/30 oil to see clean out the motor great plus oil pump clean pressure up Hey good luck
Shooting in the dark , start first one then loosen the nut until hear clater then tighten back down until stops then your at zero lash then turn 1/4 or 1/2 turn past whatever you want for each valve thats hot lashings
If your lifters are all original to that motor I'm sure they are a bit worn out. Doesn't sound like anything to worry about. The best solution is to LS swap it bro. I'll help :) I have HP Tuners now too :)
yeah, this motor was rebuilt only 1,500 miles ago so its pretty lame one of the lifters is already going bad. Sounds like this is a fairly common problem on the old 350's though.
Get louder mufflers. Problem solved. I wouldn't worry unless it starts running out of tune, just order new cam and lifters and see if it gets worse. We had a 283 that ticked for years. Great motor.
I recently ended up changing out the cam and lifters and that totally solved all the issues I was having. Must have had a bad lifter in the original rebuild kit.
First off you should never adjust valves with the engine running, there is no advantage in doing it this way, cept to shoot oil all over and make a mess. All the valves should be adjusted with two revolutions of the engine. And if a valve still continues to clack after adjusting, its a possibility you have a bad camshaft or bad lifter.
I have been adjusting valve lash on small block Chevrolet motors running for over 30 years works every time so I don't know where you are getting your information but it is false
@Rabbi Schlomo if you have low oil pressure you could have a problem with your oil pump you could have a problem with your low end bearings if they're worn out you will not get. The old two-piece rear main seal 350s whenever that great when it comes to oil pressure I would suggest putting in a high-volume oil pump if you're able. I am not cutting down the SBC 350 it was one of Chevrolet's best Motors ever made I prefer my old pressure to me around 30 to 40 pounds when idling. But I have seen do good at 20 pounds psi
@living in a desert 1full turn cold ajustment.. 1/4 to 1/2 max Hot ajustment.. otherwise OH!!! Look I need a new Cam...... but.... You have the right to learn the hard way
WOW!!! How is that engine running with almost no oil pressure? The dude is like "It's getting lots of good oil up here" Umm, no it's not, lol. On a SBC with proper oil pressure, it should be squirting out the tips of the push rods and up onto the fenders.
Man that fuel line and filter setup right over the headers is scary, that'd be the first thing I'd worry about.
My Chevy had a similar symptom. Redid the entire valve train, no change. Used a mechanic's stethoscope to trace the noise source. AHA! Noise was coming from the bell housing area at roughly the same height as the lifters. Turns out it was the bronze pilot bushing mounted in the block, which accepts the nose of the tranny input shaft. Replaced that bushing again after a thoroughly intensive cleanout of the bore hole it sits in. Lubed it up with a heavy duty moly grease, and FINALLY the "lifter" noise at rear of the block went away for good.
I have since changed out the cam and lifters. Noise went away so I assume it must have been a defective lifter.
Brother i came back to thank you! The 383 in my Chevelle had the same problem. It drove me nuts I didnt know what else to check for like a year man I readjusted the valves like a mad man over and over, replaced the fuel pump, did a million compression test you name and it turned out to be the the pilot bushjng too. I figured i pull the transmission to check and while i am at it a new clutch would be in order as it was getting worn out. Anyway thank you very much man! Stay up!
For noisy lifters use GM EOS Engine Oil Suppliment. In the 60’s and 70’s GM set customers lifters to 3/4 of a turn down after the clatter went away when your loosening the nut while the engine is running so customers would not come back complaining about noise. For Performace you want a 1/2 turn. You can increase oil pressure by going to 1 wt heavier oil. If you can’t push down on the rocker arm then you have solid lifters and need to be set them with a feeler gauge.
Bye the way others are going to there local salvage and getting old valve covers. They are cutting the top of the covers and putting them on the car then make the adjust the valves from there. No mess 🤔😁
Right on thanks 👍
THAT is a super cool trick!
🙌
Those hoodie sleeves were giving me anxiety, and then it got worse when I noticed you left sleeve was hanging down even more! 😂😂
FYI I had a 93 GMC Sierra with a 350 and went all through it and still had a tick. Come to find out it was the power steering pump going out but the seal was not leaking. I changed it out and awesome no more tick. Was a mess but found it.
Could it be your fuel pump, it also runs off the cam.
Howdy from Boise man, thanks for the vid & info - will be trying this on my 78 El Camino
Connecting a vacuum gauge will also give you additional insight as you adjust the valves
I have an old pair of valve covers that I cut the center out the full length !! NO MESS !!!
Chevy and gmc just have that tick no matter if it's a old 350 or a ls I would worry if I didn't hear that tick lol
Okay cool just got a 93 1500, developed lift tick
Lol
my 3/4 350 is ticking as usual
Just be glad you don’t have a tbi. The injectors are loud enough to hear in the cab. It’s almost impossible for me to locate another tick/knock I have..
Sad to see that you don't have the vacuum advance on your distributor connected up...
Don’t need it
Yeah not necessary at idle right?
@@bluecloudbuildersl.l.c.par9738 It depends what your definition of "neccesary" is. I implement full manifold vacuum on all my classic cars and trucks. Without lengthy explanation, vacuum advance optimises combustion at partial throttle (with sufficient levels of vacuum). "Idle" is ALSO a partial throttle condition. It only happens to be at idle speed. My "proof" is simple. Apply manifold vacuum at idle. Idle speed increases. Why? Combustion is more efficient at idle speed with vacuum advance. As soon as you step on the gas, vacuum mostly drops away and centrifugal advance determines timing, until vacuum develops (at partial throttle) and vacuum advance is added on top of whatever centrifugal advance exist already.
What I learned is loosen the nut all the way loose. Then twist the pushrod with your fingers and tighten down the nut until you feel a little bit of drag like the rocker and lifter is beginning to wheeze on the rod. Then you do a full half turn on nut with wrench, tighten Allen nut screw in till it touches, then grab both wrench and Allen and tighten together till tight
I have the center Allen screw also. They are a bitch.
Lol chevy.. i had similar issues with my 350 in my boat. The best way to make sure your lifters are good is to oil them up and test the preload before install. The other noise that could be confused for lifter tick is if your timing chain is loose or your distributor drive gear is wearing out.. on my bayliner 350 it was distributor gear luckily..
Hi Mike, since this video I have changed out the cam and lifters. No more noise. Not sure exactly what was making the noise but was one of those things...
Did you change the valve cover too? Could have been hitting on valve cover
Mike i may have this problem ive been having a serious lack of power going uphill especially, but today doing 75 On my way to 80, shit got wicked, he began to sputter, not accelerate, i held it at 60 and got off the eway but then the ticking began. I drove it back home and no more ticking but the loss of power is still present
@@moneymay1062 carbureted or fuel injected? What’s the vehicle? Let’s try some troubleshooting and see if we can narrow down the problem for you
Good crankshaft bearing is where good oil pressure comes from and when it comes to installing lifters if there not bleed deeped in oil and then installed you got a future problem
I would be way more concerned with the low oil pressure than a ticking lifter. Main and or rod bearings are probably shot.
Apparently oil pick up tubes o-ring is a usual culprit...
@@kristopherjohnson5782 No o ring on a smallblock
All GM SBC are adjusted 1 Full Turn according to Manufacturing specs.
That's probably true. After I did the last cam swap I just did 1/2 turn and all is good so far. On this setup I did everything from 1/4 turn to 1 full turn and it didn't seem to make too much difference. Everyone kind of says something different for this but 1/2 seems to be working good for me.
I've worked on SBC engines since late 60s as a teenager. The only difference I've seen is if they aren't one full turn, they don't get enough oil to the rocker arms. Even if it has perfect oil pressure.
on the running method it is 1/4 to 1/2 turn down no more. on the cold method while it is not running it is one full turn down
One full turn down is cold adjustment you don't want to do that while it's running it will cause internal damage back out to it just begins to tap turn it in until it stops and then 1/4 turn down while it's running I have been adjusting small block Chevrolet motors this way for over 30 years and it works every time
@@believecross1597 I just adjusted mine and now I seem to have a lower end sound I think that's what it is would that be caused by me adjusting them
My 95 off road chevy Silverado rebuild engine only 25 thousand miles have the same stupid problem I don't like it what can I do
You have one of 3 issues, bad/weak oil pressure regulator spring if there is one at all, incorrect bearings: con rod bearings, main bearings or cam bushings which will cause that low oil pressure when hot at idle, last but not least a sticking or failing valve/lifter. Start with the lifter then, valves and if you need to pull the pan and check your con rod and main bearings for wear issues or too much bearing/oil clearance.
People that say the ticking is normal are absolutely incorrect, unless you have fuel injectors which ALL fuel injectors tick while firing. Always set your valves according to the manufacturers specifications, if a noise continues there is something that need correct adjustment or investigated for a correct repair.
Just because parts are new or a rebuild is just completed means nothing, parts are know to be faulty right out of the box or failed due to incorrect assembly or adjustment, PERIOD. The backyard mechanic or driveway mechanic way of doing things might work in some cases but, certainly always follow the manufacturers service manual for assembly, adjustment and repair. ANYTHING ELSE IS NEVER GOOD BUT OFTEN DONE OUT OF IGNORANCE TO CORRECT PROCEDURE AND SPECIFICATIONS.
I got an issue where I got some lifter noise on cold start up but goes away after it's warm 🤔
Same!
@@southernmexican8538 I did the valve adjustment and I moved to a 5-30. 3000 series ams oil and that seemed to quite it right down
GM came out with a Technical service update in the late 70's that states small and big block chevys should never have the valves adjusted when the engine is running because it does irreversable damage to the cam and lifters it actually takes years of life off of a cam way to much pressure on lobes and lifter bottoms anyone who adjusteds these valves with the engine running is just plain doing it wrong
Cool. I gotta look into it. I have a feeling my truck is mis adjusted. The service manual I got 67 thru 84 manual says to run it but when I do that I get misfiring and the carb has been adjust and good because its not as bad. I heard if valves are adjusted to tight it can cause it to misfire
GM is wrong, that's straight horseshit rump wrangler...GM don't know shit about adjusting valves on a sbc, cam lobes or fucking lifters...jeezus phuc!
Don’t be scared of it back it off let her click, ease it in until it stops. Do them all this way then you can go back and do a 1/4,1/2,3/4 of a turn. Can’t be scared of it, you’ll know if u back them off too far they get loud lol. Another trick is to take a junk set of valve covers if h have any laying around and drill holes in them or cut the center out to access the lifter nuts for mess free adjustment. Also another tip is to remove the rocker arm nuts with engine off and dimple or slight cremp the top of the rocker arm nut so the nut won’t back off, a lot of people don’t realize this but the rocker arm nuts are theoretically “one time use”. Not meant to back off and run in more than a few times. Just my 2 cents take it like a grain of salt. Another option is to Drain a quart of oil out then top it back off with a quart of desiel fuel, fire it up let it idle for 20-30 min around 800 or 1000 rpm. Do not put engine under load during this procedure. Then drain and add new filter and oil. This should help flush out sludge from pushrods etc.
Make a video of the last trick. Ive never seen it.
While you have the motor out change your oil pump. Make sure you have the sump level adjusted right.
Your response to my response got sent to my email. At first I didn’t like it but now realize that you are watching your followers responses and that’s a good thing! The problem for me is thing only way I to respond back is on You tube!
My question is could it be in need of an oil change? I’m not sure if this is valid but I read something about bad lifters saying that changing the oil could help with the tick. A lighter alternative before or having to replace the lifters. I have the same situation with my 350 but I haven’t gotten around to changing my oil YET.
I ended up changing out my cam and lifters and then it was fine. Think I had a defective lifter from the get go
Lol I like the cardboard method but that’s no way to adjust valves running tighten them up till it messes on each cylinder back them off. One have turned just tighten them up. You’ll hear it start to miss them back them up 1/2 turn there’s a perfect.
U could tell just by watching the video that the 3rd lifter from the back was not operating the same as all the others. Its movement was not the same as the others. When u loosened the first one u duplicated that movement and then corrected it by retightening.
Noticed that too...
what motor oil do you put in it, what year is the truck
I use the VR-1 10-30. The engine is from a mid 70's truck
Could U adjusting by long method
Mine will idle quiet, but if I Blip the throttle will hear slight knocking of Lifter. So, to really see if you resolved this while adjusting - blip the throttle, see if noise is totally gone.
David Harris watch your oil pressure. If it falls a little you gun it . You’ve got bearing problems.
Hey I’m from greenleaf Idaho . I’m rebuilding a 4 bolt main and my lifters won’t pump up after rebuilding. They were pumping and primed just fine before the install. Any clues to what my problem is? Thanks
What is your oil pressure like?
@@meridian208 no idea yet . I’ll have to get an oil pressure gauge to the oil sending port . I kept priming and was able to get oil up to all the rockers except for four valves it might be blockage somewhere. Are there ways of knowing for sure? Thanks for replying!
bad lifters..big problem right now
Yea I have the same thing in mine I've been ajusting my lifters but just like yours it's probably a week lifter.
im not hearing no ticking maybe its the engine overall just super loud an di cant hear much idk
There are some real good videos on here on how to adjust lifters.....your engine doesn't sound bad on this video..... cant really here any ticking
Ya vice grip garage on adjusting lifted and valves and it the easiest I found ever hard of him
Are u rebooking up ur vacuum advance when your done
I am not using vacuum advance. Its all centrifical/mechanical. Have never hooked it up and runs fine for the most part now.
Could be a timing issue / carb tune issue.
I thought I had a bad lifter, and ended up being slightly out of timing.
check the oil pickup try to see if you have some kind of clog or build up in the bottom run some atf or diesel /kerosene in the oil and drain it out and fresh slightly thicker like 10-w40
I changed out the cam to a bigger one and got new lifters. So far no noise. I think I had a defective lifter in the rebuild kit...
@@meridian208 the lifter is probably hitting the valve cover that’s why you don’t here any ticking with the vavle cover off
Dear Friend .. Can I PLEASE HELP YOU OUT ??????????? My God I need to know who told you that was the correct way to adjust the lash out of Hydraulic valve lifter's ? If you have some ticking going on under the valve cover I might ask how many miles are on the valve train . There is really only one fool proof way to set lifter pre-load and it requires you to follow the engine firing order and adjust each one when the intake Or exhaust is on the bottom of the lifter lobe ..now depending on what my Oil pressure is at hot idle I might go as far as to install a MV55 Melling pump for added oil security ...I've been a motorhead all my life and I've NEVER ran any engine to adjust lifter pre-load because there was NEVER any reason to do so...hell some people still use the push rod twist method which works as well ...but that is more easily accomplished when the intake Manifold is NOT installed .Let me know if I can help ..Good luck..
yeah this was mostly a last resort method. When I initially built the motor I had the intake off and adjusted the lash using the firing order method as you mentioned. I had only put 3000 miles on the motor but kept chasing the lifter noise the whole time. I set it to 1/2 turn lash, 3/4 turn lash, adjusting with it running. Nothing seemed to fix it. I have since changed out the cam and lifters and did the firing order lash adjustment with 1/2 turn. Have 500 miles on new setup and no weird noises anymore. I also haven't had to readjust or anything either, runs mint now. I think one of the original lifters I had was bleeding off pressure or something and making a strange noise. They were some no name lifters that came in a rebuild kit I got. New ones are from comp and seem way better.
Mike I’m interested in your method of setting lifter preload
Can u adjust the one that's tapping.with the motor off
they have clips you can put on them stop they oil spray
those clips make for periods of entertainment as you search and search for where they landed when they left the rocker arm. One little rev and they leave the scene. lol
What pound are these supposed to be tightened at ?
They don't really work that way. You tighten until zero lash then go another half to three quarter turn.
@@meridian208 thanks for the tip, I got a twin turbo 305 that has a lifter tick, hoping it’s not a rod or bearing
If that is idle with the cam you have, go ahead an lower it at the idle screw. It will stay running, just somewhat rough.
I on choke fast idle cam can be knocked to idle.
To listen for noise like exhaust leak, use a 3-4' length of heater hose to your ear. Use a 2' long screwdriver on the rocker arm cover, this will put you close to the rocker that makes noise.
Keep in mind, lifter bored can be odd oversized from factory lifters if replaced. Also, spring should be measured while apart and checked with specs. Auto front pump leaks if at seal, require good oversized drain back hole behind the seal, a quality seal with trans-gel holding garder spring in place plus use a retainer from Delco to hold the seal in.
DK, ASE master tech since 78.
O what u saying it’s oil pump hopefully not worned out
What the size of ur header tubing
I've got some cheap flowtech headers. I want to say it's 1 5/8 but I don't remember exactly.
@@meridian208 im in Phoenix how much i have 79 k5
Lifter noise is not only the majority of oil pump it’s a lifter ready to collapse it will shoot oil over 3-4 inches had that experience replace lifters problem solved
Learn from old timer mechanic if it got more then 150 k meaning it going to happen at high rpm usually
Is number 1 2 8 lifters that go first
Then it starves the rest of lifters
Due to excessive oil shooting out
should always adjust your valves on a cold engine.
Nice work buddy easy to.identify
thats to bad whata bummer ibet he dont do dat again
What is that shield on the spark plug wires? Mine are melting from contacting the header. These would be handily big time!
They are spark plug wire heat sleaves. I got them from an oreilleys but I imagine you can get them from any auto parts store. Or even amazon and summit
Perfect thanks
My 95 GMC 350 does the same knocking. Hate it.
Mu 95 2 make same f noise is a rebuild engine take back to the mechanic haven't the noise no more run it myself f noise is there is like scary movies
@@oscarspaisawagons7179 I was told it was a GMC thing so I let it go my truck runs just fine
Thicker oil?
Not for lifter ticks it'll make it worse
I am very interested in what he’s doing but watched his shoulder more than anything! Maybe a camera overhead or something like that! All in all very good video, although I think his engine sounds better than mine!🧐
yeah sorry about that. I have more cameras and stuff now so future videos will hopefully be better. Thanks
Find you an old Chevrolet valve cover and cut the top out of it that's a good way to adjust the valves without getting oil and oil all over everything
That's what I do too with a cardboard, also I cut out rubber truck bed mat.
3/4 after tick stops bud
This is guess work.
The cam bearings are gone.
15 to 20lbs oil pressure is low isn’t it?!?!?!
Kind of depends I guess. Even after I have changed cam/lifters in this motor it still idles around like 10-15lbs of pressure and when driving its around 30-40lbs. I talked to an old circle track guy the other day and he said 350's will still run practically forever on very little oil pressure so idk. Seems to be working pretty good so far.
My 400 does about the same. 10-15psi at idle and cruising down the road about 25-30psi or so at 2200rpm
Oil rail thru the lifter housing 1 7 2 8 is the most important which keeps maintain oil pressure thru lifters
Waisting your time good luck I’m a Chevy man rebuild many seen many try to do the same it will happen again I’ve clean it out with ATF 3 quarts 2 quarts of 5/30 oil to see clean out the motor great plus oil pump clean pressure up
Hey good luck
thats number 2 number 1 is left side the easy way is follow the firing order
yeah, I probly just said the wrong thing. Gets confusing sometimes trying to think and talk at the same time while recording lol.
Nice camera angle bro
LOL
Check your fuel pump!!
i would probably use foil to wrap the cardboard so it doesnt lose its integrity
Shooting in the dark , start first one then loosen the nut until hear clater then tighten back down until stops then your at zero lash then turn 1/4 or 1/2 turn past whatever you want for each valve thats hot lashings
If your lifters are all original to that motor I'm sure they are a bit worn out. Doesn't sound like anything to worry about. The best solution is to LS swap it bro. I'll help :) I have HP Tuners now too :)
yeah, this motor was rebuilt only 1,500 miles ago so its pretty lame one of the lifters is already going bad. Sounds like this is a fairly common problem on the old 350's though.
I didn't realize it was rebuilt recently. That sucks.
If you go LS don’t forget to replace stock LS rods bc you all know they bend
Get louder mufflers. Problem solved. I wouldn't worry unless it starts running out of tune, just order new cam and lifters and see if it gets worse. We had a 283 that ticked for years. Great motor.
Try some STP i think it's a lifter.💪
He probably hears the distributor tick
change ur oil pump dude !!!!!
I recently ended up changing out the cam and lifters and that totally solved all the issues I was having. Must have had a bad lifter in the original rebuild kit.
You don't have any better suggestions than that I would think the guy knows when to change his oil
@@believecross1597 he said oil pump its not pumping the oil fast enough. The oil itself is fine.
First off you should never adjust valves with the engine running, there is no advantage in doing it this way, cept to shoot oil all over and make a mess. All the valves should be adjusted with two revolutions of the engine. And if a valve still continues to clack after adjusting, its a possibility you have a bad camshaft or bad lifter.
I have been adjusting valve lash on small block Chevrolet motors running for over 30 years works every time so I don't know where you are getting your information but it is false
@Rabbi Schlomo if you have low oil pressure you could have a problem with your oil pump you could have a problem with your low end bearings if they're worn out you will not get. The old two-piece rear main seal 350s whenever that great when it comes to oil pressure I would suggest putting in a high-volume oil pump if you're able. I am not cutting down the SBC 350 it was one of Chevrolet's best Motors ever made I prefer my old pressure to me around 30 to 40 pounds when idling. But I have seen do good at 20 pounds psi
@living in a desert 1full turn cold ajustment.. 1/4 to 1/2 max Hot ajustment.. otherwise OH!!! Look I need a new Cam...... but.... You have the right to learn the hard way
Try not to block the camera so that the viewers can see what you’re doing.
I'd be great to see what u did without your shoulder being in the way....fyi
😄
you shoulda had oil flyin outa tubes
You're probably hearing the headers
Always but always buy good lifters
Exhaust manifold leak
you need oil pump
WOW!!! How is that engine running with almost no oil pressure? The dude is like "It's getting lots of good oil up here" Umm, no it's not, lol. On a SBC with proper oil pressure, it should be squirting out the tips of the push rods and up onto the fenders.
False
@@stanmoon8806 Actually it's true. You're not properly educated about the SBC.
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Their is nothing wrong with your truck...
This is not the way to do it!
StayAwayFromMotors!
Go play w Dolls!
By ft
Can't see what you're doing
Ummm uh Barry doing totally wrong
OMFG! Do you like hearing yourself talk? You're obsessing over a tick and you have no idea what you're talking about.
Yeah your right. You have no idea what your doing.