The fixative holds the image, I don't believe there is a chemical reaction. In theory you can do this same process without any fixative, but the outcome will vary depending on the surface finish of the metal. Damar Varnish can also be used, I just find the spray is faster and move even across the surface.
What would be the best gravers to start with? flat, square, oval etc which can be used for the most things which would be best for motorcycle parts, aluminum wheels and the like
RevolutionStudio615 It depends on what kind of image you’re engraving. The flat and oval are for serious removal and sculpting or inlay usually. Personally I prefer a “Calligraphy” graver, about 120 degrees, so it’s wide and with practice they’ll do really nice flares on turns. They’re also very blunt, or rather there’s a fair amount of material behind the point supporting it, so it tends to last a little longer over a narrow graver.
The blue PNP transfer paper works excellent as well. Just print your design directly on the paper and use an iron to heat transfer it to the metal. No chemicals needed and is very durable.
Ken Sanders I’m assuming you’ve used pnp as a guide for engraving, piercing etc. What was your experience like? I’ve never used the product your talking about and the reviews only mention etching.
@@Jewelrymaker I've used PNP blue as well as other toner transfer papers. But now I'm having problems with a large cast iron piece... My heat gun won't get enough heat to transfer the image. You think an iron would work? I've learned that the surface temperature needs to be at least 100° F. Have you encountered this problem? (mass of metal is a heat-sink)
@@sknopster You might try placing the piece in an oven prior to transferring the image with an iron. The item has to be really clean as well or the toner won't stick.
@@Jewelrymaker Do you know if the fixative is removable with alcohol? If alcohol cuts the fixative, I could use your process and remove the exposed fixative with alcohol. Fortunately, alcohol does not affect the toner at all, therefore it would remove the fixative and leave only the toner behind. This would solve my problem! (I know acetone and M.E.K. will instantly dissolve the toner)
DH designs. Creating images there are a lot of options. We use procreate, for ipad, more then photoshop now. For flipping and sizing anything should work.
According to google the printer you have is an inkjet printer which doesn't work for this technique. It has to be a laser printer with toner. The fixative we used is linked in the video description Im not sure what the fixative is that you mentioned.
Is the fixative required to make the laser toner adhere to the metal? I've used heat (120° F) and it transfers / adheres beautifully to the bare metal. Presently I need to transfer to a 20-lb piece of cast iron... It's too big of a heat-sink and I'm unable to get the temperature required. I'd like to use the acetone process, but I'm guessing the fixative will act as a resist for the chemical (ferric chloride) etch process, or even electro-etching. Do you think the image (laser toner) will transfer & adhere without the fixative?
use an iron on hot for a few seconds...let cool a little , peel off paper, .done . also you could etch the bare brass wih ferric chloride in a few mins....
What air hand piece engraver you using shuttle style piston or spring?
Verry cool Transfer method. Ill Trailer it. on the end you use a Suction on the Schorsch Wheel? Would you tell me More About it. thx
We reviewed the polishing unit and dust collector here: ua-cam.com/video/CMHvYgT4hGM/v-deo.html
@@ClearMindJewellery great thank you👌🏻
China white is an artist's watercolor paint used by engravers to provide a clear background to transfer pattern markings.
What app are you using for changing image
Is the fixative mainly to hold the image in place or is it to perform some chemical reaction to transfer the image to the metal?
The fixative holds the image, I don't believe there is a chemical reaction. In theory you can do this same process without any fixative, but the outcome will vary depending on the surface finish of the metal.
Damar Varnish can also be used, I just find the spray is faster and move even across the surface.
Really nice piece of work.
Very cool it's been a while since l did a print making class and your video helped to refresh my memory👍
so glad I found your channel. Can't wait to see more.
What would be the best gravers to start with? flat, square, oval etc
which can be used for the most things
which would be best for motorcycle parts, aluminum wheels and the like
RevolutionStudio615
It depends on what kind of image you’re engraving. The flat and oval are for serious removal and sculpting or inlay usually.
Personally I prefer a “Calligraphy” graver, about 120 degrees, so it’s wide and with practice they’ll do really nice flares on turns. They’re also very blunt, or rather there’s a fair amount of material behind the point supporting it, so it tends to last a little longer over a narrow graver.
What is the rotating assembly for the engraving called? Thank you !
Michael Ryan it’s called an block vice. You can find it on most jewellery tool websites, we got this one from Geesswein.
Thanks for share your precious experience
When you fix a boo boo for your demo is why I subscribed
The blue PNP transfer paper works excellent as well. Just print your design directly on the paper and use an iron to heat transfer it to the metal. No chemicals needed and is very durable.
Ken Sanders I’m assuming you’ve used pnp as a guide for engraving, piercing etc. What was your experience like?
I’ve never used the product your talking about and the reviews only mention etching.
Yes, I've used it for both piercing and engraving. It works great. Give it a try sometime. I think you will like it.
@@Jewelrymaker I've used PNP blue as well as other toner transfer papers. But now I'm having problems with a large cast iron piece... My heat gun won't get enough heat to transfer the image. You think an iron would work? I've learned that the surface temperature needs to be at least 100° F. Have you encountered this problem? (mass of metal is a heat-sink)
@@sknopster You might try placing the piece in an oven prior to transferring the image with an iron. The item has to be really clean as well or the toner won't stick.
@@Jewelrymaker Do you know if the fixative is removable with alcohol? If alcohol cuts the fixative, I could use your process and remove the exposed fixative with alcohol. Fortunately, alcohol does not affect the toner at all, therefore it would remove the fixative and leave only the toner behind. This would solve my problem! (I know acetone and M.E.K. will instantly dissolve the toner)
Do you know Any other apps to use to create and size an image like that?
DH designs. Creating images there are a lot of options. We use procreate, for ipad, more then photoshop now. For flipping and sizing anything should work.
@@ClearMindJewellery ok thank you very much
Great!
安心(anshin) means "peace of mind" & "no worry" in Japanese.
don't know what kind of fixative u using i bought one its carnoy fixative solution and that dries up same as acetone and my printer is epson l358
According to google the printer you have is an inkjet printer which doesn't work for this technique. It has to be a laser printer with toner. The fixative we used is linked in the video description Im not sure what the fixative is that you mentioned.
thank you very much sir
Nice work 👏👏👏👍🏻
Very nice. Great job!
And remember to flip your image if there are words on it
Damn it! Now I want the tools for engraving and I can hardly afford to buy saw blades.
What kind of liquid u use to transfer the image.
The metal is sprayed with fixative, what kind if linked in the description, and then the image is transferred with acetone.
Is the fixative required to make the laser toner adhere to the metal? I've used heat (120° F) and it transfers / adheres beautifully to the bare metal. Presently I need to transfer to a 20-lb piece of cast iron... It's too big of a heat-sink and I'm unable to get the temperature required. I'd like to use the acetone process, but I'm guessing the fixative will act as a resist for the chemical (ferric chloride) etch process, or even electro-etching. Do you think the image (laser toner) will transfer & adhere without the fixative?
Thanks for this!!! Amazed!!!!
use an iron on hot for a few seconds...let cool a little , peel off paper, .done .
also you could etch the bare brass wih ferric chloride in a few mins....
Muchas gracias Amigo por compartir.
the metal i am using is aluminium
actually i am in china and can't find any thing else
can i get your email