Glad to see more than r10 under slab but in my opinion r16 still isn't enough. Like you said it alway 4c under that insulation. So in your shoulder seasons when it's 10 to 20c outside that floor is still fighting 4c. We are now spray foaming all under slab with a minimum of 3 to 4 inches. R21 to r28. Also if you are doing radiant heat in the slab I recommend r40 to r60 as the floor is kept at 22c and the water running through the tubing is typically around 38c. Big delta between 4 and 38. The ground is always sucking heat out. #1 rule of heat transfer, or only rule, hot to cold. Also best to split your rigid foam into 2 layers with overlaps if using sheet goods instead of spray.
We do vapor barrier, thermal break, insulation, packed lime stone fines then concrete. I am going with slate slabs over the concrete. For thermal mass.
I'm guessing the slab will have hot water heating, so the warm floor will not condense moisture. They're also in Calgary Alberta which has a pretty dry climate. I wouldn't worry about it.
wouldn't it be better to put the 10 mil plastic on top of the EPS to stop the risk of the concrete getting under the foam and causing it to float (iceberging)?
I had the same question. Other designers have brought this up. He must not have an issue with it while pouring the slab, otherwise he wouldn't do it. "It's not dumb if it works" haha
Net zero homes have nothing to do with the amount of products/energy consumed while building. Net zero is based on house performance, creating more energy than it consumes or atleast being 'net zero'. You could use 10,000 dinosaurs worth of oil to create a house but as long she's well insulated, air tight, efficient heating systems, and has solar or geothermal it can qualify for net zero. There is nothing environmentally friendly about building homes, or cars or air planes or your phone or anything so while consuming a lot of dead dinos to make a house its better than burning more dinos to heat it for the next 100 years
except that you could actually do away with a lot of the concrete and plastic being used on this build while maintaining the building performance, and do a lot more to mitigate the embodied carbon going into the build... @@mountains2938
2:59 - high-performance home and Tyvek don't go together LOL. Love the basement details!
Glad to see more than r10 under slab but in my opinion r16 still isn't enough. Like you said it alway 4c under that insulation. So in your shoulder seasons when it's 10 to 20c outside that floor is still fighting 4c.
We are now spray foaming all under slab with a minimum of 3 to 4 inches. R21 to r28. Also if you are doing radiant heat in the slab I recommend r40 to r60 as the floor is kept at 22c and the water running through the tubing is typically around 38c. Big delta between 4 and 38. The ground is always sucking heat out. #1 rule of heat transfer, or only rule, hot to cold.
Also best to split your rigid foam into 2 layers with overlaps if using sheet goods instead of spray.
We do vapor barrier, thermal break, insulation, packed lime stone fines then concrete. I am going with slate slabs over the concrete. For thermal mass.
I’m so proud of your construction ❤
Wont moisture condense between the foam and the plastic the way its laid?
I'm guessing the slab will have hot water heating, so the warm floor will not condense moisture. They're also in Calgary Alberta which has a pretty dry climate. I wouldn't worry about it.
@@3th1xs what if it's off?
@@VanillaAttilaMoisture moves up in this situation, not down. You're trying to keep the moisture from wicking up.
@@karlhungus545 moves up until it hits a temp differential that'll condense it
@@VanillaAttila Yes, underneath the slab when it hits the vapor barrier. It's the way we do it here in -50C winter Saskatchewan.
wouldn't it be better to put the 10 mil plastic on top of the EPS to stop the risk of the concrete getting under the foam and causing it to float (iceberging)?
I had the same question. Other designers have brought this up. He must not have an issue with it while pouring the slab, otherwise he wouldn't do it. "It's not dumb if it works" haha
are you accounting for a full basement's worth of concrete and this massive amount of EPS foam in your net-zero system?
Net zero homes have nothing to do with the amount of products/energy consumed while building. Net zero is based on house performance, creating more energy than it consumes or atleast being 'net zero'. You could use 10,000 dinosaurs worth of oil to create a house but as long she's well insulated, air tight, efficient heating systems, and has solar or geothermal it can qualify for net zero. There is nothing environmentally friendly about building homes, or cars or air planes or your phone or anything so while consuming a lot of dead dinos to make a house its better than burning more dinos to heat it for the next 100 years
except that you could actually do away with a lot of the concrete and plastic being used on this build while maintaining the building performance, and do a lot more to mitigate the embodied carbon going into the build... @@mountains2938