Hi, Disclaimer : I am myself in the process of learning F360 so I may say some stupids things below. A few thoughts/notes : - You can have a reversed text easily by selecting the horizontal flip button in the text creation window. - I would remove the holes for digits that have one (4 and 0 in our case) by extruding through the stamp's base to avoid an air bubble being trapped there. - For the 0.2mm extrude removal, I would go for an extrude of -0.2mm of the digit's top faces. Anyway, thanks for the content ! Regards
I think those are great suggestions. No need to flip the text when you can just extrude in the opposite direction (which just makes sense in my head). I think either way is correct. The air holes is a really good idea - I may change that. The 0.2 cut is SO obviously the correct and more easy approach to that - lol. I’m surprised I didn’t think to do that.
I'm not saying this is easier. An option that don't require the mold itself being created in Fusion, but you can create the "master" includes some slicers allow you to mirror your stamp across either the X, or Y axis. Z too, but then you're printing the numbers on the bottom, which probably isn't what you're looking for. Go ahead and use your favorite modeling software to create the stamp so that if you just printed it straight, it's readable. That lets you verify that the lettering and numbering is correct, then just go back to the slicer and mirror it. Oh, and James over At Clough42 fond one of the problems with some fonts is that things that look like a corner may be a lot more complex, and attempting to use those fonts for tapers in Fusion 360 would fail for him as well. I'm not using Fusion 360, so I can't verify that.
It can also be handy to chamfer the surface that is going to be printed with a chamfer that's the depth of a print layer, .2mm, perhaps, so that you don't end up with an elephants foot on the first layer. This presumes that you're getting one, and want to eliminate it, if your printer doesn't drop one there, then don't include it.
@@ShopTherapy623 The taper angle for extruding the text can be a positive angle or a negative angle depending on if you want to grow it larger or smaller as it extrudes. The reason your text extrusions were failing with larger taper angles is because they had geometry that was intersecting itself. ie. a single digit would get too fat and fusion doesn't know what you want it to do. It's better to do tapers that get smaller so your starting position is the exact size that you want and the rest gets tapered until it becomes a sharp point/edge if you try to go too far. Doing it this way also makes it so that you could press the text into the concrete and have it be the exact size that you drew it as by pressing it all the way in (add an extra lip on the edge of the stamp or a handle on the back to pull it out)
@@pHuzi0n yes I’m aware you can do a negative taper angle, but that’s not what I wanted to do. The starting letters were the exact size I wanted, and then wanted them to get wider. This taper allows the letters to slip out of the concrete easier. If you taper inward (negative taper), the letters become distorted. The reason I did what I did was to get around the errors.
@@ShopTherapy623 OK, after trying it myself I see why you went the way you did. Fusion made some ugly surfaces. I tried a different way extruding the text straight/no draft. To get the angle on the sides so it doesn't stick, I used the chamfer tool and set the type to 2 distance. I used 0.2 to 0.5 for the x expansion, and the Y distance was the same as my letter extrude thickness. This seemed less picky about the overlapping bodies if it created any. Then I selected the faces of the numbers. You might have to swap the two chamfer dimensions to get it right. This way I could edit the text and change it for 2025. Can't wait to see how it turned out when you stamped the concrete.
@@norseengineer I posted a shorts video of me stamping it. It worked really well. However, in the video I didn’t push down very hard. I ended up going back out afterwards with a little rubber hammer and giving it some light taps to deboss it even more. I didn’t show it, but I lightly sprayed the stamp with cooking oil before stamping it.
Hi,
Disclaimer : I am myself in the process of learning F360 so I may say some stupids things below.
A few thoughts/notes :
- You can have a reversed text easily by selecting the horizontal flip button in the text creation window.
- I would remove the holes for digits that have one (4 and 0 in our case) by extruding through the stamp's base to avoid an air bubble being trapped there.
- For the 0.2mm extrude removal, I would go for an extrude of -0.2mm of the digit's top faces.
Anyway, thanks for the content !
Regards
I think those are great suggestions. No need to flip the text when you can just extrude in the opposite direction (which just makes sense in my head). I think either way is correct. The air holes is a really good idea - I may change that.
The 0.2 cut is SO obviously the correct and more easy approach to that - lol. I’m surprised I didn’t think to do that.
I'm not saying this is easier. An option that don't require the mold itself being created in Fusion, but you can create the "master" includes some slicers allow you to mirror your stamp across either the X, or Y axis. Z too, but then you're printing the numbers on the bottom, which probably isn't what you're looking for. Go ahead and use your favorite modeling software to create the stamp so that if you just printed it straight, it's readable. That lets you verify that the lettering and numbering is correct, then just go back to the slicer and mirror it.
Oh, and James over At Clough42 fond one of the problems with some fonts is that things that look like a corner may be a lot more complex, and attempting to use those fonts for tapers in Fusion 360 would fail for him as well. I'm not using Fusion 360, so I can't verify that.
It can also be handy to chamfer the surface that is going to be printed with a chamfer that's the depth of a print layer, .2mm, perhaps, so that you don't end up with an elephants foot on the first layer. This presumes that you're getting one, and want to eliminate it, if your printer doesn't drop one there, then don't include it.
✌See ya next Vid!!
If you right click your text and click “explode text” each letter will act as its own face
Awesome tip! I did not know that - will try that out next time - thank you!!
Pretty useful one, thanks a lot !
Center rectangle. Brilliant. I feel so dumb for how l’ve drawn rectangles up to now 😂
Lol
Negative taper is allowed.
What do you mean?
@@ShopTherapy623 The taper angle for extruding the text can be a positive angle or a negative angle depending on if you want to grow it larger or smaller as it extrudes. The reason your text extrusions were failing with larger taper angles is because they had geometry that was intersecting itself. ie. a single digit would get too fat and fusion doesn't know what you want it to do.
It's better to do tapers that get smaller so your starting position is the exact size that you want and the rest gets tapered until it becomes a sharp point/edge if you try to go too far. Doing it this way also makes it so that you could press the text into the concrete and have it be the exact size that you drew it as by pressing it all the way in (add an extra lip on the edge of the stamp or a handle on the back to pull it out)
@@pHuzi0n yes I’m aware you can do a negative taper angle, but that’s not what I wanted to do. The starting letters were the exact size I wanted, and then wanted them to get wider. This taper allows the letters to slip out of the concrete easier. If you taper inward (negative taper), the letters become distorted. The reason I did what I did was to get around the errors.
@@ShopTherapy623 OK, after trying it myself I see why you went the way you did. Fusion made some ugly surfaces.
I tried a different way extruding the text straight/no draft. To get the angle on the sides so it doesn't stick, I used the chamfer tool and set the type to 2 distance. I used 0.2 to 0.5 for the x expansion, and the Y distance was the same as my letter extrude thickness. This seemed less picky about the overlapping bodies if it created any.
Then I selected the faces of the numbers. You might have to swap the two chamfer dimensions to get it right.
This way I could edit the text and change it for 2025.
Can't wait to see how it turned out when you stamped the concrete.
@@norseengineer I posted a shorts video of me stamping it. It worked really well. However, in the video I didn’t push down very hard. I ended up going back out afterwards with a little rubber hammer and giving it some light taps to deboss it even more. I didn’t show it, but I lightly sprayed the stamp with cooking oil before stamping it.