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Honda CBR 600 F4I Motorbike Fork Seal Replacement
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- Опубліковано 25 січ 2024
- Today we are called to replace the fork seals on this 2001 Honda CBR 600 F4I motorcycle
Below are links to some of the tools you will see us using in our videos:
Chain Alignment Tool
www.amazon.co....
Milwaukee ½” Impact
www.amazon.co....
Wurth Spray Pump Bottle
www.amazon.co....
Universal Fork Seal Driver
www.amazon.co....
Oil Drain Pan
www.amazon.co....
Magnetic Bowls
www.amazon.co....
Magnetic Pick up Tool
www.amazon.co....
Seal Pick set
www.amazon.co....
Kneeling Mat
www.amazon.co....
Rear Paddock Stand with Forks
www.amazon.co....
Rear Paddock Stand Cradle Adaptors
www.amazon.co....
Front Paddock Stand
www.amazon.co....
I'm sorry to have to point out an error with your work. It's a mistake that many people make including bike shops. If you go by the Honda manual it states that you remove the outer fork cap but leave the inner damping adjuster on the damper rod (so don't undo the locknut on the damper rod basically). It's still possible to strip the fork down with it attached and this avoids resetting the rebound adjuster. If you remove the whole cap like you have done then you need to have set the rebound adjuster fully in before undoing the locknut. This way, when you screw the cap back on it goes back to the same 'fully in' setting. You can then turn the adjuster out by the required amount either in the manual or how the customer had it set. You can see at the end of the video when you bounce the bike that the rebound damping is now set much harder and you will have lost a lot of the range of damping adjustment too. Some manuals will have a dimension for how far down the locknut should be set down the damper rod which is another way to get the right setting. Also, I get your argument regarding air gap vs oil quantity but if you have ever stripped down the cartridge completely (by removing the compression piston in the bottom and pulling the damper rod out) you will see that they can contain a decent amount of oil even after being allowed to drain for some time. So measuring the air gap is really the only true way to get the exact amount of oil in the fork.
Thanks for the information. We will take it onboard 👍
I completely agree with you on both points, and you saved me a load of typing, so thanks for that 👍
Most of this design of fork I come across have been incorrectly assembled like this.
Rebound adjustments all over the place with no consistency of adjustment from one side to the other.
Also agree, air gap every time, otherwise it's only ever almost correct!
When the forks are built from new ,do the manufacturers set the air gap,or do you think they just chuck the oil in em??
@matthewharmer1656 They fill with the correct quantity of oil. The difference is that there's always a quantity of oil left in the cartridge when changing seals. So, measuring the air gap is the only true way of getting it spot on. The reality is with old standard suspension like this. you'd never notice if the oil level was a tiny bit off.
@@SuperbikeSurgeryTV agreed, with a brand new fork that has never seen a drop of oil then adding a known quantity will be 100% accurate. But then when servicing the forks it's a lot more accurate to go with air gap as long as the fork has been bled completely.
Hello, great job. It can be noted that inexperienced hands were previously on those forks. keep it up!!
nice one Steve, thanks for taking the time to share your time and patience with these videos, they are a great source of info for many people. unfortunately, you will always get some negative comments, I really enjoy your videos, so don't let any negativity put you off, as the saying goes onwards and upwards cheers.
Glad you like them!
Ou Steve, so glad see again you doing things the same way me and my friends do it in our garage.
Yours videos are awesome.
We like it!
Best wishes from Belgrade
Thanks 👍
Great video! One of the best I've seen with all the details step by step.
Thank you
Thanks for the comment. Subscribe for regular new content each week
You are a legend Steve! Keep these videos coming !!
Thanks for watching. New videos will be posted every week
Love your videos Steve...just simple without any bells but,you get that job done spot on.could I ask? What makes that fork seal driver? I'm loving that.
It is made by a company called JMP
@@themobilemotorbikemechanic thank you.
Yes keep it up Steve do like this kind of content. I gave you a shout out on my latest vlog as I made a Injector cleaner like yours and said you gave me the idea 👍
Awesome thank you! What’s your volg details?
Mate how did you make the injector cleaner
@@colfergusson4242 Bought the kit off Amazon and the 9v battery cases off Amazon and did my own wireing. ua-cam.com/video/_oDjlAZWqBE/v-deo.html at 14:50 I show the kit.
Surprisingly I’ve really enjoyed watching your videos. Very good if you put the price your charged or hours for the job
Glad you liked the video
Thanks for something interesting to watch steve.
Glad you enjoyed it
Steve , I take it you filmed all these in the summer 2023 going by your attire
We did do a fair number of videos over the summer as the camera lady doesn’t like the cold, but we do work all year round no matter what the weather
Great video, thanks for sharing 👍 I have an 02 F4i and have new springs to fit - the seals are good but I'm 100% the oil has never been changed as it had only done 5300 miles when I got it last year 😮
Should I do the seals at the same time, just because I have them out?
Me gustó el vídeo.
Hi, any chance you can detail the correct way the seals go in . When you look at the seals it’s not that clear. Replaced mine a year ago and got picked up on an advisory on MOT. Just about to replace them and not sure I didn’t put the replacements in upside down. Thanks
The seal has an “open” side and a “closed” side. The closed side should be outwards. Hope that makes sense but it is a bit difficult to explain without a picture. With the replacement seals in hand you will see what I mean 👍
Nice one, been putting off doing them on my F2, this has given me the push 😀, would it help to stop it spinning to crack the bottom bolt with the spring in ? I don't have an impact tool.
It does help yes 👍
Hey mate can i ask what did you use the clean the inside of the tube? Cheers
Brake cleaner and a cloth
👍
Can i ask where you got that front jack stand? Im in the USA and i cant seem to find one for my 06 CBR600F4i
Readily available from Amazon or eBay 👍. Just be sure to get the correct pin size for your bike
Я тоже это делал в гараже, не очень сложно
Im about to do my forks, how long did it take to do all that?
It takes us around 2-3hrs to do the full job. If this is your first time doing this job set aside a full day just in case things do go as planned
Great job, try some orange tiger grip gloves, they'll not fall apart like those blue ones
Thanks for the tip
Hello mate, how can i contact you about work i need doing?
All of our details are on Google
We also have a Facebook page
Dont you torque anything up? Forks and brakes are two things i think should always be torqued.
He will be in the ball park in regards to the torque any way he does this day in day out and you get a real precise feel for that kind of thing when you work at a professional level like he does
Oh he has one of them inbuilt torque arms, sorry didn't know he had been upgraded. Why do tool makers make torque wrenches when humans are so good at getting it right@@millymoo6575
Torquey Porky...
I'm with him on this one. There is nothing in this job that would require an experienced mechanic to need to use a torque wrench.
Agree have a friend who is a bike mechanic over 40 yrs in the game and thats the way he
does tightening bolts nuts etc thats just experience and a feel only time i've seen a torque wrench is in the clean room whilst doing engine builds.
Oof that oil was way yucky!