Great demonstration. I caution those DIYers that often times you need to ensure that the mechanical/strength/thermal expansion properties of the new mortar match that of the original mortar, particularly for historical structures. Not trying to scare anyone, but a significant mismatch in materials (i.e., brick, cmu, mortar, grout, etc.) can result in cracks and more challenges than original tackling. Know the age of your masonry structure. Ask a subject matter expert. Ask questions of anyone performing a "simple" repair if they have considered these things. Excessively strong or stiff is not always the answer. Can result in an imbalance in stiffness.
Irregardless of whether the job is historical or not you should take a sample of the existing mortar to the masonry supply yard to have it analyzed so that the new mortar will match the existing for color and texture. You will get a mix recommendation to use for a match.
My father taught me to bricklay when I was 15. Every school holidays I was the brickies labourer. Also the proper European Rendering. Now I find it fun to do. But I forgot the ratio sand and cement! Lol 😆. I can't ask my father because he passed away over 15 years ago! Cheers from Australia 🙂
Thank you so much. My Granddad and my Dad were brickies. Sadly they are both gone now. They were Londoners, so hearing your lilt made my day. Now I can repair my house and they will smile down.
that doesnt put them all the way in, it just sits on top...you ll be redoing it in a few years. doing it with a trowel takes longer but lasts 100 years
Excellent. Easy you say but I see the skill involved and the patiece required. You make it look easy but i guess practise helps too. Good video thanks for posting.
Really useful practical guide on repointing a modern wall. If would any be pointers require reliable technical guidance on repointing, do take the trouble to read the Building Research Establishment publication “Good Repair Guide No 24” (Repointing external brickwork walls) as this provides useful information, including when does worn pointing affect structural integrity and the importance of using lime pointing on old solid walls.
For you DIY people looking at this unless your thinking of attempting a little area don't attempt anything too large especially whole elevations of your property. Not only will it look a mess but you will devalue your property. This guy knows what he's doing. This is a DIY video and the point of this video is to sell you their DIY tools. If you have to repoint yourself for gods sake find somewhere that won't be seen and practice, practice and when you think you've got it practice some more. He used a 2" bolster to remove old mortar this is fine for the odd piece of mortar but you need to look at other videos for other ideas if doing a large area. The most important task other than protecting your eyes and lungs from debris and dust, safe secure scaffolding and ladders is get your mortar right. I have seen people try and use muck that an experienced tradesman would have a nightmare with. Nice soft building sand ( Some of them can be too gritty ) Experiment. Like I said there are lots of really good vids and some bad ones. The mortar is key to this task. On hard bricks i.e. In the video Ratio of 4 sand 1 cement and a very very tiny amount of plasticiser literally a small spec if your mixing a bucket. If your a looking to attempt a Victorian house for example built in soft reds that's whole different ball game. Save up and get the pro's in. And then find someone who knows what lime mortar is. I've been guilty of using cement based mortar on beautiful Victorian brickwork and only after getting involved in with some heritage guys changed my thinking on this.
Dont now why you think DIYers are not as good as a tradesman, I have had builders in propertys and wont have anymore as I can do a far better job myself,some of us DIYERs have a lot of knowledge, I once had a builser take pictures of a victorian fireplace I built and put in as he had never done one !!!!!!
Thanks for that. I Think while I have the scaffolding up from a re roofing job, I think I will have a go at re pointing my gable ends and below. The scaffolding might makr the job expensive but since its already there and paid for, might just as well have a go. BTW, ignore health and safety at your OWN PERIL. Personally I prefer not to take the risks, I wear gloves all the time and eye protection most of the time. I haven't had grit in my eye or scraped the skin off my hands yet. I think that is worth the bother.
If I'm needing to repoint a basement brick wall, which type mortar should I use? But if Type S and N are too hard, then type O and K are not structural. So I should use type N then?
This way shown in the video is only for really small areas. To attempt something bigger you need different approach and different tools. I know over 20 years in business and still learning 😁.
@@nadiamughal6688 finger trowel. Dont use a piece of hose if you going for a curved look in your joints. Get a jointer. Tbh, this is really bad work and the guy hosting says this is easy work. It's easy to make brick work look bad like shown in the video
I don't like being critical but, the finish on the end product has a lot to be desired and I certainly wouldn't want any of my walls looking like that. Nothing wrong with your explanation just the way you executed the job.
Yes, the pointing finishes are down to personal preference. They're designed to weatherproof the wall and prevent water ingress. If patch repairing, you should match the finish used on the rest of the wall.
Depends on the brick whether it is older or newer brick. Never use straight portland cement EVER. You should use a lime mortar for older softer brick. Have a conversation with your local masonry supply company rep.
Can you please advise exactly what mortar you are using for it to be so fine. Please be specific in term of brand name and if mixed separately the ratio - thanks
So for 28 years you been doing it All wrong, that's alright another 28 more years using a brush and you'll finally do the bricks some justice👷👈! lol , don't forget that brush, we have a saying out west brick ain't set if it ain't brushed!
I wish vids like this would consider the final dry colour of the mortar mix. I am so far only able to achieve... 'orrible light grey with ready mixed sand cement 'orrible grey with separate sand and cement 'orrible khaki when adding a buff colouring. How do i produce a nice dark colour. Somewhat like in the vid when still wet ?
Today's market offers a limited range of cement and mortar dye powders, but even these are difficult to match as the old mortar/cement has weathered and discoloured.
You can rub horse manure in when dried and the chemicals of manure will give a bit of aging . A little soil rubbed in is ok too. That was a tip a mason gave me anyways .
Those bricks are very old. Looks like the mortar at the back of the joint you raked out is lime. No way should you be using a cement based mortar. It's too strong. Looks like cement has previously been used for repointing and that is why the bricks on the top of the wall are damaged. By using cement, you are actually destroying the wall, not maintaining its structure. Use a lime mortar instead.
IMHO, this is is not task for a DIyer. I have a brick ranch home. And based on this video. Likely it would take me forever from start to finish. I tackle many projects that I am not skilled in. But this one would go at a snails pace.
Should be called "how not to repoint". Why hold the trowel 3 feet away from the joint? Why such a shallow rake out? Why such a rich mix? Why use cement? Why brush when still wet?
Your tuck pointer was too wide. Got mortar all over the brick faces. Needed a 3/8 inch tuck pointer and maybe a 1/4 inch tuck pointer. That one looks like a 5/8 inch.
Please don't re-point solid walls with cement mortar!!! Your doing a lot more harm than good, these old walls need to breathe and cement based mortars stop this happening causing all sorts of damp problems
I live in the states, and NHL 3.5 is scarce to come by. Only a few places sell it and charge a small fortune to ship it to my location. Only hydrated lime is available in my area. Is that a suitable substitution?
Yes, this method is NOT how to do it. How many buildings have been ruined by this hard grey cheese. Please enrol for a course at the Scottish Lime Centre
Brilliant video. Really clearly explained, no fillers. I can do that. Thanks
I love this guy, he reminds me of my father 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Great demonstration. I caution those DIYers that often times you need to ensure that the mechanical/strength/thermal expansion properties of the new mortar match that of the original mortar, particularly for historical structures. Not trying to scare anyone, but a significant mismatch in materials (i.e., brick, cmu, mortar, grout, etc.) can result in cracks and more challenges than original tackling. Know the age of your masonry structure. Ask a subject matter expert. Ask questions of anyone performing a "simple" repair if they have considered these things. Excessively strong or stiff is not always the answer. Can result in an imbalance in stiffness.
Great advice thanks James
Irregardless of whether the job is historical or not you should take a sample of the existing mortar to the masonry supply yard to have it analyzed so that the new mortar will match the existing for color and texture. You will get a mix recommendation to use for a match.
My father taught me to bricklay when I was 15. Every school holidays I was the brickies labourer. Also the proper European Rendering. Now I find it fun to do. But I forgot the ratio sand and cement! Lol 😆. I can't ask my father because he passed away over 15 years ago! Cheers from Australia 🙂
Thank you so much. My Granddad and my Dad were brickies. Sadly they are both gone now. They were Londoners, so hearing your lilt made my day. Now I can repair my house and they will smile down.
sounds more like west country / Somerset as opposed to London accent but could be wrong
Great video, short and sweet and gets to the point!
This was an extremely helpful and lovely video to watch. Thank you!
thank you so much i had no idea how to start my project but this video was so helpful..
I like using a grout bag to fill the joints. Way faster, and once you get good it's neat too.
Good idea man
Grout bags are for amatuers!
that doesnt put them all the way in, it just sits on top...you ll be redoing it in a few years. doing it with a trowel takes longer but lasts 100 years
Great video. Gets right to the point. love it. thanks for the help!
Hello from România! 👋
Great job! Thank you for the tips! 👏👏
Clear, concise instruction. Thanks for the video - I've got a lot of repointing to do this summer.
You're welcome. Thanks for the feedback and best of luck with your repointing.
Excellent. Easy you say but I see the skill involved and the patiece required. You make it look easy but i guess practise helps too. Good video thanks for posting.
Really useful practical guide on repointing a modern wall. If would any be pointers require reliable technical guidance on repointing, do take the trouble to read the Building Research Establishment publication “Good Repair Guide No 24” (Repointing external brickwork walls) as this provides useful information, including when does worn pointing affect structural integrity and the importance of using lime pointing on old solid walls.
Just trying Teach you the right way. And this this is how we do it. We watch The Brick. Which comes up brand new? We grind joints. And then we point.
So well explained!!!!! Thank you!!!👏👏👏👏👏👏👍👍👍
Cool Video , I am going to try my first every pointing job, thank you.
nice job mate..i love a bit of pointing..
Same👍
This helped enough to show me I can do it myself rather than pay someone. Thanks very much mate
@JCBAirmaster73 Why not use a new trowel?
@JCBAirmaster73 Ah right. Thanks.
É um serviço que exige muita paciência ..
Is it fine if I don't remove the excess/surplus mortar?
never brush off till the mortar is touch dry or you will ruin your finish like this guy has.
Good to know, thank you.
Lol
Didn't look like he ruined anything.
Just brush diagonally, not along the joint's axis. Problem solved.
Nothing a little acid won't clear up mate!
For you DIY people looking at this unless your thinking of attempting a little area don't attempt anything too large especially whole elevations of your property. Not only will it look a mess but you will devalue your property. This guy knows what he's doing. This is a DIY video and the point of this video is to sell you their DIY tools. If you have to repoint yourself for gods sake find somewhere that won't be seen and practice, practice and when you think you've got it practice some more. He used a 2" bolster to remove old mortar this is fine for the odd piece of mortar but you need to look at other videos for other ideas if doing a large area. The most important task other than protecting your eyes and lungs from debris and dust, safe secure scaffolding and ladders is get your mortar right. I have seen people try and use muck that an experienced tradesman would have a nightmare with. Nice soft building sand ( Some of them can be too gritty ) Experiment. Like I said there are lots of really good vids and some bad ones. The mortar is key to this task. On hard bricks i.e. In the video Ratio of 4 sand 1 cement and a very very tiny amount of plasticiser literally a small spec if your mixing a bucket. If your a looking to attempt a Victorian house for example built in soft reds that's whole different ball game. Save up and get the pro's in. And then find someone who knows what lime mortar is. I've been guilty of using cement based mortar on beautiful Victorian brickwork and only after getting involved in with some heritage guys changed my thinking on this.
Dont now why you think DIYers are not as good as a tradesman, I have had builders in propertys and wont have anymore as I can do a far better job myself,some of us DIYERs have a lot of knowledge, I once had a builser take pictures of a victorian fireplace I built and put in as he had never done one !!!!!!
Thanks for the tip
Very detailed and informative. Thanks!
Very helpful.. thank you!
Thanks for that. I Think while I have the scaffolding up from a re roofing job, I think I will have a go at re pointing my gable ends and below. The scaffolding might makr the job expensive but since its already there and paid for, might just as well have a go. BTW, ignore health and safety at your OWN PERIL. Personally I prefer not to take the risks, I wear gloves all the time and eye protection most of the time. I haven't had grit in my eye or scraped the skin off my hands yet. I think that is worth the bother.
What is the key to getting the mortar to stick to your tool as you press it into the joints?
If I'm needing to repoint a basement brick wall, which type mortar should I use? But if Type S and N are too hard, then type O and K are not structural. So I should use type N then?
Thank you, really good video, very clear. I'm going to have a go at repointing this year for the first time. Can I get those tools in Homebase or B&Q?
You can get quality masonry tools on a few different websites. Check out marshalltown, Kraft or bon tool. They have everything you need there.
I personally wouldn’t use a bolster and club hammer due to loosing and braking bricks.....and wait until mortar is slightly gone off before brushing
AMAZING VIDEO. THANK YOU
Thanks for the video! 👍
Definitely wait till it is dry until you scrap the excess. And if anyone tells you to use a sponge... dont do it
No discussion of what mix to use to not blowout the bricks or make other issues, according to what was there before...
use video, gave confidence pointing my front on my house, well made video.
Bakers bag and a angle grinder fastest way. Oh and have a friend with a vacuum on it while grinding 🍻
Is frost proofer required? TBH it doesn’t seem to be readily available. Is it just a plasticiser?
Nice video 👍👍👍👍👌🌺🌺
Seems so simple.
Hope you got back for tea time!
What about using the chum brush?
This way shown in the video is only for really small areas. To attempt something bigger you need different approach and different tools. I know over 20 years in business and still learning 😁.
Wojciech Chrzanowski can you please name the tools he used to flatten the mortar? I’m-doing my wall but i stopped caz I couldn’t get the neat results
@@nadiamughal6688 finger trowel. Dont use a piece of hose if you going for a curved look in your joints. Get a jointer. Tbh, this is really bad work and the guy hosting says this is easy work. It's easy to make brick work look bad like shown in the video
You make it sound fun
I don't like being critical but, the finish on the end product has a lot to be desired and I certainly wouldn't want any of my walls looking like that. Nothing wrong with your explanation just the way you executed the job.
Talking sh*t
@@js5189 In what respect?
looks very easy. At home, different story...
Thank you!
Thanks
Is that pure cement only. Does it need to be sand and cement ? Or does it not Matter?
Hello, it would need to be a sand and cement mix to make mortar not just cement on its own. Some pointing can have Lime added to it. Hope that helps!
What is the difference between the types of pointing? Is it just a matter of personal choice?
?
Yes, the pointing finishes are down to personal preference. They're designed to weatherproof the wall and prevent water ingress. If patch repairing, you should match the finish used on the rest of the wall.
Top job. Some links to the tools and materials you used would have been useful to a newbie like me!!
Nice Clean Job, But requires patience for best results!
I might recommend a grout bag piping tool
Fuck gotta get up there today for my favorite cousin FML thanks for the tips and skipping the safety bullshyte 🇺🇸🇮🇪 South Boston Massachusetts ☘
How many years to complete the project 😀😀😀😀😀
Splendid
Can I use regular cement for this job or I need to use specify type of cement? Thanks. BTW, excellent instructional video.
Hi, you'll need to use brick laying mortar. Glad you liked the video.
Depends on the brick whether it is older or newer brick. Never use straight portland cement EVER. You should use a lime mortar for older softer brick. Have a conversation with your local masonry supply company rep.
Most modern day builds are a 5 sand 1 cement ratio , as someone said if it’s a older building with lime it becomes a bit harder
great vid thanks
Good job
nice work
Glad you liked the video.
Angle Grinder Bullet Bpt 801
Im going to try this i only have a few bad spots a guy gave me an outrageous price
Can you please advise exactly what mortar you are using for it to be so fine. Please be specific in term of brand name and if mixed separately the ratio - thanks
Hi RamiK, it was ‘Blue Circle ready to use mortar’, an all-in-one premixed tub.
Draper Tools TV can I purchase this in the states? I can’t seem to find anything online... is this mostly used internationally?
@@RamiKTV-vf3mt Quikcrete makes a good masonry mortar. Home Depot and Lowe's carries it. www.quikrete.com/productlines/masonmix.asp
Ive been a Brickie 28 years and I never use a brush , winds me up seeing people brush face work, clean trowels only need apply
So for 28 years you been doing it All wrong, that's alright another 28 more years using a brush and you'll finally do the bricks some justice👷👈! lol , don't forget that brush, we have a saying out west brick ain't set if it ain't brushed!
Does anyone know what type of brick they are??
Apologies we're not actually sure of the answer to this - but will look into it for you and let you know as soon as we find out more.
The brand new tools say he hasn’t done this in a while. Would this seem accurate?
I wish vids like this would consider the final dry colour of the mortar mix.
I am so far only able to achieve...
'orrible light grey with ready mixed sand cement
'orrible grey with separate sand and cement
'orrible khaki when adding a buff colouring.
How do i produce a nice dark colour.
Somewhat like in the vid when still wet ?
Today's market offers a limited range of cement and mortar dye powders, but even these are difficult to match as the old mortar/cement has weathered and discoloured.
A bit of brown dye will work, the liquid dye add a bit to your water,
You can rub horse manure in when dried and the chemicals of manure will give a bit of aging . A little soil rubbed in is ok too.
That was a tip a mason gave me anyways .
He says you need good tools but uses a bit of hosepipe instead of a mortar jointer 😂😂😂
But its a good tool though lmao
Those bricks are very old. Looks like the mortar at the back of the joint you raked out is lime. No way should you be using a cement based mortar. It's too strong. Looks like cement has previously been used for repointing and that is why the bricks on the top of the wall are damaged. By using cement, you are actually destroying the wall, not maintaining its structure. Use a lime mortar instead.
was asbestos ever mixed with mortar ? I’m Panicking
Looks like all those joints need repointing why don't use a grinder and do it all
IMHO, this is is not task for a DIyer. I have a brick ranch home. And based on this video. Likely it would take me forever from start to finish. I tackle many projects that I am not skilled in. But this one would go at a snails pace.
Should be called "how not to repoint". Why hold the trowel 3 feet away from the joint? Why such a shallow rake out? Why such a rich mix? Why use cement? Why brush when still wet?
@TH97 Vulgar boy.
Do not use protective Google’s and put some lime in your mix so that when you do the job it might splash in your eyes and blind you.
Your tuck pointer was too wide. Got mortar all over the brick faces. Needed a 3/8 inch tuck pointer and maybe a 1/4 inch tuck pointer. That one looks like a 5/8 inch.
Hi Zoe, Draper products are available through numerous retailers across the UK. Please visit www.drapertools.com/stockist for more details.
My god you not heard of a angle grinder 5mm depth 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Horrible London frog bricks from late 70s early 80s, worst bricks I ever laid.
Look at em wrong and they chip.
I hope that wasn't cement mortar.
This guy obviously works in a shop, not a builder lol
Oh, no disrespect.
Orrite my Luvver😂😂
Please...
I can do a 10 by 10 foot radius and 6 minutes.
Wrong tool
Please don't re-point solid walls with cement mortar!!! Your doing a lot more harm than good, these old walls need to breathe and cement based mortars stop this happening causing all sorts of damp problems
Nhl 3.5 or 5 for me all day long. You're exactly right.
I live in the states, and NHL 3.5 is scarce to come by. Only a few places sell it and charge a small fortune to ship it to my location.
Only hydrated lime is available in my area. Is that a suitable substitution?
@@ernievonvutenhauger7207 no. Hydraulic 3.5 is the way
please delete background music
Yes, this method is NOT how to do it. How many buildings have been ruined by this hard grey cheese.
Please enrol for a course at the Scottish Lime Centre
Rough as fuck
great video once you skip all the health and safety bullshit
Gen Me You will be the One eyed mason with Lung disease 😀
Gen Me . You
I can't unda,stand what the faulk this guy is sauyiing....
Wrong sloppy ,, If you wouldn't know how to do it the right way. Call Bobby the rain. Philadelphia
Now I know how to do it thanks
Thanks