You are the man! Myself and another mech did the job on a 2003 Outlander tonight WITHOUT doing that oil sprocket/screwdriver thing. Guess what? It runs, but like CRAP!!!! After watching your vid, I did it correctly (like you did) and now she purrs like a kitten! The fellow mech and I are both Vets and we thank you for this video and your service! Bravo Zulu!
*Excellent job.. this is one of the best instructional videos on how to replace the timing belt on a Mitsubishi Galant 2.4L on UA-cam. Thanks for sharing!*
Considering you are filming inside an engine bay (difficult lighting on the lower parts, and many different pieces at different focal lengths which confuse the auto-focus), you've done a wonderful job.
I think it's great that people are learning to do this kind of repair on their cars...it saves a ton of cash and the tools that you buy to do the job are just a bonus...I just did a mitsubishi 3.0 in a 94 voyager and the hardest part was getting the power steering pump bolts back in...that was a pain in the ass.
Great video will be doing this on my Mitsu Eclipse tomorrow and this gave me a great reference video and idea of what I'm getting into so the job has become a little less nerve racking thinking about it!
I ran across your tutorial while researching the job for my daughter. You hit the key points very well. It isn't much different from most SOHC Asian motors, so I should be good to go. Thanks a lot!
Thanks for watching...Your the second person to mention that the Eclipse has the same 2.4 motor. I think I'll add that info somewhere in the title as suggested by "Mann81591" in his earlier post. This is my first Mitsubishi timing belt too & is running great. Look for my next video soon in the works where I'll be making a home made smoke machine to test for vacuum leaks on a car & hopefully at not much of a cost!
Thank you! My car was a 2001 Mit Galant ES, but was totaled in Sandy storm. Car ran excellently for seven years, after buying it in 2005... but was flooded last Oct; at 156,929 miles, and may have soon become a candidate for new timing belt! Still very good cars with lots of pick-up power!
I am currently in process of buying a timing belt kit and new drive belts to replace on my Diamante. Very similar to that engine except, mines is a V-6. Little nervous on doing this job but then again I use to do jet engine mechanics so I shouldn't be. Really need to save money and cannot afford to have the car sitting in the shop for days when I have an All data diy account. This video really gave me the final confidence I needed. lol. Thanks for posting!
Thanks for the comment. I hope you & your son got his car running without much of a problem. It's not really a job I look forward to doing. Hope my next car has a timing chain instead because they last much longer!
Joel Epstein Hi Joel, I have a OEM timing belt that’s been sitting brand new in a package for at least 10 years. You think it’s still good when I change mine out soon?
I replaced the timing belt, water pump and belt tensioner and the crank seal and cam seals on a mitsubishi 3.0 on a 94 voyager...1 day tear down and 1 day assembly, changed oil and coolant too.
Thanks very much for making this video. I'm about to start this job tomorrow and after seeing this it will really help with the flow of things. Thanks!
Good job thank you am going to do mane and balance the oil pump cuz the mechanic did the belt and not balance the oil pump and now shake like a bich thanks for the video. 👍
The plug is actually a threaded bolt.I think maybe a 13mm so you don't use a screwdriver to take it out. Shouldn't be any bracket to remove. It's just behind the exhaust manifold on the cylinder block. Use a small 3-inch screw driver later once the bolt is removed to see if it hits the balance shaft or goes in 2 inches or more and clears the obstruction. If it goes in 2" or more and the oil pump sprocket locks when you turn it, then balance shaft it hitting the screw driver which is correct.
Thank you so much for posting this video! Like you, I've only done different and older timing belt setups, not newer (Especially Japanese) ones. I wanted to do all of my research before I attempted it to fix my buddy's car, and your video helped a lot! Thanks so much for posting it!
Thanks a bunch for posting this vid! i looked all over online and couldnt find a video on this engine. should put 3g eclipse 2.4l in your discription! THANKSSS
Thanks for video! Ill be tackling this tomorrow on an 03 Sebring with the same motor, hopefully I have no valve damage. I see you're in El Paso too, I recognized the EPCC and Diana exits towards the end of the video haha.
Mark great vid. I think I may need this job. My was sitting at a drive thru when I a weird low rattling sound then when I pulled off the lot to a red light it died. Noticed that one of my coil packs was not sparking. Changed it still no fire. Looked up some info and led me to certain sensor that could be bad but my other coil is still firing along with that low noise I heard I would say the belt broke and need to check.
hello.. probably you posted this video time ago but i have a mitsu lancer and my timing belt went off.. you video helped me alot thank you so much ... regards to El paso ;)
Top job Mark,,,,,admire how keep the cam while ya fixing,,,,,,,,,,,,,love it ! Just done a gearbox and transfer case on my Mitsi Legnum / VR4, what a big job, no cam on there haha-
Great video. I've done timing belts before but was a little unsure of this one due to the silent shaft belt. I found this video very helpful in showing me what I needed to know. Don't listen to Ryan...he sounds like an uneducated troll.
I'd really recommend the kit with new pulleys because if the old one(s) wear out they may allow the belt to slip off & you may be in the same boat again. But you know, they may be OK & last...it's hard to say & it's a chance you take. I took a chance too because I knew I should have replaced my water pump while I had everything off but decided not to. At least you know your new water pump will be OK! I hope all works out for you & that there is no damage. Let me know how things come out! Mark
Sounds like the belt shred & jumped time but is still in place. You have spark at least on one coil so the cam/crank is turning. As far as the other pack not sparking, yes this could be related to a bad crank position sensor, especially if you changed the coil with a good one. As seen in my video, my sensor was totally tore up & would never have started even with a new belt & in time. Only way to be sure is to take off the timing belt cover to check things out. Let me know how things turn out!
It's hard to say without seeing but I imagine if you didn't loosen or remove the tensioner pulley, you may be able to just pull the pin to add the tension. If you already loosed, removed, or replaced the pulley, then yes, I would say the pulley would need adjustment. The two small holes on the pulley should be facing down. That's where I made the coat hanger tool to adjust the pulley. I just made sure the belt seemed fairly tight & couldn't be slipped off by hand at the top CAM sprocket.
I suppose you don't need to if you are sure the oil sprocket is aligned properly with its mark. Like it shows in the video at time line 01:07, I turn the sprocket lightly by hand & it eventually rotates a bit on it's own & then stops near the mark. It won't stop dead on & align with the mark...you would need to align it yourself but you would know that the sprocket is in the correct position. I did the screw driver thing because that's what I found in my research. Thanks for the post!
Does the Waterpump Pulley run off the timing belt, or the serpentine belt with this make and model? If it runs off the timing belt, does that mean in the situation of replacing a water pump, you would have to re time everything again?
Hi M,03 ,my eclipse/2.4 lite is a well maintained since purchase used, I replaced the the idler and timing belts 30k ago, Last week the car shut down driving along highway/ stripped teeth of the idler belt, pieces of rubber teeth destroyed my CPS ,i replace with mitsu belt and sens,but never replaced this reluctor plate,it looks ok and do not see any type damage on it.I did set up as per your video,starts and runs fine butt here is a ticking noise as if somethin was
He wasn't asking you about the ignition timing he was talking about you rotated the crankshaft without having the belt on the camshaft so if you rotated too far with that being an interference motor the pistons could have hit the valves besides that awesome job .
I am doing this job right now but not until after the belt blew off so it has a replacement head. I finished that a couple days ago. The lower belt shield was damaged and I have a new shield but there seems to be no crank seal on it. Did they go without a seal behind the vibration dampener? The old shield was eaten and melted by the damaged balancer so I can't tell. I don't believe there is but wanted to be sure.
Tell me please, I have an Outlander-Airtrek in Brazil, and I hear the same sound from engine. It's normal, or it does have a ball bearing that is worn, thanks! I bought mine with 90000 miles on.
The plate behind the harmonic balance gear what if that got bent? Does it have anything to do with the sensor? my plate is bent and it broke my balance belt and sensor when we cranked the car! can you cut it?
Sorry John, I'm not sure if you are talking about the Crank Sensor Wheel? It sort of looks a bit like a shield (silver & thin) that rotates for the the crank position sensor. If so, I don't believe there is a seal behind it but am not exactly sure. I looked up some diagrams on the internet for this part & didn't seen anything like a seal with it. Sorry I can't give you a 100% answer.
On Part 1 video at the beginning of time frame 11:01, I pretty much show the exact location of the plug & eventually also use a laser pointer because it is sort of hard to find.
Using a gates timing belt kit from rock auto set perfect tension removed pin and turned engine over 360. came back to re insert the pin 15 minutes later and turns out the belt jumped 6 teeth. didn't start the engine yet...I'm confused, any help would be appreciated!
+Andrew Amado - You may have to try again. I'm not sure why you needed to come back to reinsert the pin as that would take the tension off again. Remove the Tensioner again, compress the piston slowly a little at a time with a vise or channel locks & reinsert the pin. Once the CAM mark is correct at TDC, temporarily use nylon tie wraps to hold the belt in place. Install the Tensioner back loosely. Get the remaining marks all lined up again. Once everything is all lined up with the timing marks & you've verified the oil sprocket/balancer are all correct, the belt should still be a bit loose at this time. You will need to make some tension adjustment (like I did with my coat hanger tool) & then pull the pin. Make sure you tighten all the Tensioner bolts at this time before rotating the engine...but make sure you remove the nylon ties first. You shouldn't need to reinsert the pin anymore. Hope the second time does it!
I have the exact same car and I replaced my o2 sensor and crankshaft position sensor but my car seems to still shut off while im driving . Do you think its the timing belt that needs to be replaced? Any ideas?
+Brionne Connie If it just shuts off while driving that unfortunately could be a number of problems. Electrical, fuel pump/filter, computer, etc... I don't think it would be the timing belt though. If the belt slipped or was worn out so bad, it probably wouldn't start in the first place let alone allow you to be able to drive for a bit & then have it shut off. What was the reason for replacing the camshaft position sensor? Did it break, get damaged or failed? Did the car start shutting down just after that part was replaced? The reason I ask is even though it was a new part, new parts can also sometimes be bad. That definitely could cause it to maybe run for a bit but then unexpectedly stall out. Also if the sensor is misaligned or not securely tightened. Not saying you should focus on this 100% as the actual problem, but could be possible. It's probably best to take it to someone you trust to check things out. I really hope you are able to get your car running!
I pretty much rather use genuine parts but if they are too pricey or not available, I usually see what the local parts stores offer in the way of after market but usually do a bit of research before buying such as how long they should last, what others are saying, and warranty. BTW, sorry for such a late reply...I must have overlooked your post.
Hi Mark, was just curious about something. I bought a nice Gates kit, but also bought the two OEM belts and thinking on using them instead of the Gates belts. The thing is, the OEM timing belt has been sitting in the brand new package for close to 10 years. You think it’s still good??
I would imagine that the OEM belts are probably still good as long as they weren't stored outside in a shed or in the weather or someplace hot like an attic. But if you don't want to take a chance, I'd go with the new ones. The ones I bought for this job were also Gates.
Tbone productions I bought one!! But I just don’t understand how it works. I haven’t done the job yet, it was wondering if you tighten the bolt after you have adjusted tension on the belt. Hope I’m explaining this correctly. Lol!!
Now if that's the case I heard these are interference engines and I could've damaged it, what do you know about that? Did your car die on you while driving? Hope I didn't bend rods n pistons by trying to crank. Thanks Mark
touchn the plastic cover,so I puled cover of and dry ran it, still tic tic noise idling and as i rev engin and it changes pitch, so its from that area but al looks ok, rechecked oil pump alignment,okI rechecked everything. i feel it the pickup plate/any suggestions? altrhough it looks fine..and i also cheked outside space between pickup plate and sensor its about 30 thou,so that not touchn an i remove and visualy checkd the cps to assure it not touching the inside of sensor .lost (ty) inadvance
Hey mark I last chatted with you 7 months ago and now I'm able to follow through with the repair. Did find out that the belt had several teeth missing and also the balancer belt broke in half(that small belt). I'm still praying for no valve damage. Also I was only able to buy new belts and water pump only. Couldn't afford the kit, any luck this way? I hope so
Hi Mark. Thanks for posting the video. That was very detailed, and you took great care to consider how the video can really help us... I'm at a loss that my 97 2.4 Eclipse Spyder GS still hasn't started. The initial mystery was that the car was running perfectly fine, and then, after turning off the car for 20 minutes and turning it back on, the car just cranked but didn't start. After a very long search, I finally found that it was the balance shaft belt shredded and took off the sensor. My friend was messing around with the timing belt, so I also see that the belt is 2 teeth off. However, I'm so disappointed, that my car still has no compression. It finally has spark now that I have a new crankshaft position sensor on. Any insight on why I might still have zero compression on all 4 cylinders? It says online that my engine is a interference engine, but once when my timing belt broke without on the freeway, I changed it about 5 months ago, and it worked fine. I have never heard a loud bang neither since the BS belt breaking or anything. Thank you in advance.
+Tien Trinh - Did you get your car running since this post? I sure hope so because no compression at all is not a good sign. I don't think that would occur just with a broken balance belt or timing off a tooth or two. You said that it previously broke on the highway but your were able to get a new belt. I hope the previous issue with the belt breaking on the highway earlier didn't come back to haunt you now. The belt breaking during high speed with those interference engines will trash them most of the time. I would make sure number 1 cylinder is Top Dead Center to start off with & then ensure all the other timing/reference marks are line up properly afterwards & give it another try. Remove the #1 spark plug and insert a small diameter wooden dowel into the spark plug hole until it contacts the top of the piston. As the engine is rotated (best by a ratchet), the piston will force the dowel down & then upward. When the end of the dowel is at its highest point, the engine is at TDC for the #1 cylinder.
+Mark Kapuscik Hey Mark. Thank you for getting back to me. I really appreciate it! On the same day that you commented, my friend sends me two pictures just like this www.google.com/search?q=pistons+marks+from+valve+damage&safe=off&espv=2&biw=1024&bih=572&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj60a37kfHLAhWCuoMKHfnPCKkQ_AUICCgD#imgrc=S5g8LZdKTrKvTM%3A But only the green circles, and even a bit less damage then that.(I don't know how to do picture attachments.) So, my best friend said he will get to a valve job soon, and probably doesn't need any work on the pistons. He'll know more once he gets the head off. So, hopefully, it's a friendship deal of $600 or so lol.
+Tien Trinh Also, I just dislike how my crankshaft trigger plate is so close, maybe even touching the sensor. So, hopefully, we don't have to change that too!
NICE vid i did d a head gasket on my friends 2000 mitchubishi eclips lol i think i made the timing off a tooth on accident going to dig into it once he gets off work the car almost has no power and all cylenders are firing but sounds like it is missing
Mark, I know you published this a while ago, but hopefully I can get your help. When I try to remove the crank shaft pulley it won't come off...removing those four bolts should release it right? Please advise
yes. just removing the 4 bolts allows the crank pully to come off. if you haven't done so, try tapping around the pully with a rubber mallet to loosen it. should come off pretty easy. maybe a bit of wd40 too. just make sure to clean well before installing the belt back on.
Thank you, Mark! I should let you know that the method worked. The rest of the job went relatively smoothly considering it was the first time doing the whole job. I appreciate it!
sir i was planning to change my timing belt on my galant 2001 4g63 sohc ,i was just thinking that this is the best time to check and to replace some other component can you please give me a list of thing that you think is best to replace while i'm on the process on changing my timing belt ,thank you in advance sir
I definitely suggest changing out all pulleys associated with the timing belt with new ones. Get the kit as it should have the Timing & small Balance belts as well as all the pulleys. I’d recommend replacing the Hydraulic Tensioner too. But probably most important preventive maintenance tip I have would be to replace the water pump since it is right there where you’ll be working. Other things I’d look to inspect or change out with new parts would be the serpentine & power steering belts. Hope this helps!
Yeah...what was I thinking trying to save money! Oh well I had to give up those savings anyway. I gave the Galant to my Son & bought a 2013 Ford Fusion but two months later the AC compressor failed on the Galant & I paid $1,300.00 for new AC parts & labor. I do majority of work on my cars except for AC & automatic transmissions.
Hi i actually had a question i followed all the instructions i bought the timing belt kit with a tensioner but when i start the car it shakes im not sure what went wrong
I would recheck all the timing marks again & make sure all is lined up. Especially the balance belt shaft/oil pump sprocket (what I did with the screw driver). That would make it shake if its off & will notice poor performance. Did the belt break while driving or did you just replace the belt for regular maintenance? If it broke while driving at a high speed, then maybe there is piston/valve damage which would also make the car run bad (if not at all). It doesn't take much speed to cause damage if the belt breaks, maybe 15 mph & more.
+Mark Kapuscik ive double and trible checked the timing marks also went ahead and removed the belt and followed the video that u have here but still the same acts like it wants to but dont have to many details compression feels and sounds like its good but need to doublecheck compression gauge. might have accidentally fell a couple times. i have full good voltage on one side of the injector circuit and im sure it grounds through the ecm got spark and fuel pump and pressure are good. i own my own shop and have the matco pro series thats the size of a car loaded with special tools but the one thing i need had to be sent back to launch because the scanner stoped coming on can u chech codes like the older model cars by jumping the dlc wires and counting engine light
Hi just want to ask a quick question.. I am not getting no sparks from my ignition coil.. I was driving. Then the engine just shut rite off.. Do you think the timing is off.
I would think even if the timing was off you would still have some spark from the two coils but if the belt broke you probably wouldn’t. If the engine is now turning over much faster than normal with no compression then the belt likely broke. Both coils likely didn’t go bad at the same time.
@@mkapuscik01 and i also replace a new timing belt with new tensioner.. Because the first belt didn't broke but it was shredded.. Fee grips was rub out. So am still trying.
If it has the same 2.4 engine, I'm pretty sure it would be the same process. In fact, others have mentioned in previous comments that it was the same for their Eclipse. I no longer have the Mitsubishi in this video. I gave it to my youngest Son but is still working!
Stop at frame 26 of video part 2 here. You should be able to see the check pug diagram. again, it is a threaded bolt that you need to remove, Hope this helps.
@@YOYO300. You are only placing the screw driver in the hole just to confirm that the balance shaft pully is lined up in the the correct position. It is correct that the screw driver should go in a few inches then you want to turn the small balance pully clockwise until it stops (about a 1/4 turn). That means it is correct then back up the pully counter clockwise until the 2 lines (marks) line up. Re-watch the video again from time frame 0:41 to 2:23 to see what I mean. In this step you are only alinging the small balance shaft...you will still need to perform the rest of the timing steps to get everything back in time & in working order.
thank you mark....btw...how DARE you try to save 700 dollars by doing it youself..lol THANK YOU SIR.. now my wife and i dont have to share cars anymore..lol
To Ardzgmz2010 - I'm trying to figure out to to reply to comments with this new Google +...seems my comments are not posting but here is my reply to you: No. The ignition timing wasn't affected by the timing belt breaking & the car ran perfect. I suppose it wouldn't hurt to check if its hard to start or if you notice loss of power. Thanks for the post! Mark
Great video! Just curious how far did you rotate the crank clockwise before you were able to get the balance shaft belt on. I'm going to do my timing belt and wanted to try this method but i know rotating it too far can get you into trouble. Thanks!
BOTTOM LINE IS LEAVE IT TO US THE MECHANICS THAT DO THIS FOR A LIVING AND WERE THE ONES WHO HAVE TO GO BEHIND A PERSON LIKE URS WORK AND FIX UR FUCK UPS BIG TIMES
You are the man! Myself and another mech did the job on a 2003 Outlander tonight WITHOUT doing that oil sprocket/screwdriver thing. Guess what? It runs, but like CRAP!!!! After watching your vid, I did it correctly (like you did) and now she purrs like a kitten! The fellow mech and I are both Vets and we thank you for this video and your service! Bravo Zulu!
*Excellent job.. this is one of the best instructional videos on how to replace the timing belt on a Mitsubishi Galant 2.4L on UA-cam. Thanks for sharing!*
Thanks so much!
Considering you are filming inside an engine bay (difficult lighting on the lower parts, and many different pieces at different focal lengths which confuse the auto-focus), you've done a wonderful job.
awsome job Mark Been a tech for 34 years could have not done it better!
I think it's great that people are learning to do this kind of repair on their cars...it saves a ton of cash and the tools that you buy to do the job are just a bonus...I just did a mitsubishi 3.0 in a 94 voyager and the hardest part was getting the power steering pump bolts back in...that was a pain in the ass.
Great video will be doing this on my Mitsu Eclipse tomorrow and this gave me a great reference video and idea of what I'm getting into so the job has become a little less nerve racking thinking about it!
I ran across your tutorial while researching the job for my daughter. You hit the key points very well. It isn't much different from most SOHC Asian motors, so I should be good to go. Thanks a lot!
Thanks for watching...Your the second person to mention that the Eclipse has the same 2.4 motor. I think I'll add that info somewhere in the title as suggested by "Mann81591" in his earlier post. This is my first Mitsubishi timing belt too & is running great. Look for my next video soon in the works where I'll be making a home made smoke machine to test for vacuum leaks on a car & hopefully at not much of a cost!
Thank you! My car was a 2001 Mit Galant ES, but was totaled in Sandy storm. Car ran excellently for seven years, after buying it in 2005... but was flooded last Oct; at 156,929 miles, and may have soon become a candidate for new timing belt! Still very good cars with lots of pick-up power!
I am a Mechanic and checked out your video.... I think you did a Great Job! Keep at her! and Thank you for your service
I am currently in process of buying a timing belt kit and new drive belts to replace on my Diamante. Very similar to that engine except, mines is a V-6. Little nervous on doing this job but then again I use to do jet engine mechanics so I shouldn't be. Really need to save money and cannot afford to have the car sitting in the shop for days when I have an All data diy account. This video really gave me the final confidence I needed. lol. Thanks for posting!
Thanks for the comment. I hope you & your son got his car running without much of a problem. It's not really a job I look forward to doing. Hope my next car has a timing chain instead because they last much longer!
Very detailed, seems like you could done this for a living.
Mark nice video. Had to help my son with this project and realize you put alot more effort into this than realized. Thanks!
Good job, however i don't believe you've never done this before, i'm a master tech and the job you performed was level "A" tech
Joel Epstein Hi Joel, I have a OEM timing belt that’s been sitting brand new in a package for at least 10 years. You think it’s still good when I change mine out soon?
I replaced the timing belt, water pump and belt tensioner and the crank seal and cam seals on a mitsubishi 3.0 on a 94 voyager...1 day tear down and 1 day assembly, changed oil and coolant too.
Great Video, i am about to start this job on my car. Thanks for the help.
Mark ur video was a huge help I had no idea wut I was doing but it's done first try thanx
Thanks very much for making this video. I'm about to start this job tomorrow and after seeing this it will really help with the flow of things.
Thanks!
timing belt was in strings around my main, runs great with out a valve job thanks for the video
Good job thank you am going to do mane and balance the oil pump cuz the mechanic did the belt and not balance the oil pump and now shake like a bich thanks for the video. 👍
The plug is actually a threaded bolt.I think maybe a 13mm so you don't use a screwdriver to take it out. Shouldn't be any bracket to remove. It's just behind the exhaust manifold on the cylinder block. Use a small 3-inch screw driver later once the bolt is removed to see if it hits the balance shaft or goes in 2 inches or more and clears the obstruction. If it goes in 2" or more and the oil pump sprocket locks when you turn it, then balance shaft it hitting the screw driver which is correct.
Hi mark you did the job and that's what counts.good job
Thank you so much for posting this video! Like you, I've only done different and older timing belt setups, not newer (Especially Japanese) ones. I wanted to do all of my research before I attempted it to fix my buddy's car, and your video helped a lot! Thanks so much for posting it!
Thanks a bunch for posting this vid! i looked all over online and couldnt find a video on this engine. should put 3g eclipse 2.4l in your discription! THANKSSS
Thanks for video! Ill be tackling this tomorrow on an 03 Sebring with the same motor, hopefully I have no valve damage. I see you're in El Paso too, I recognized the EPCC and Diana exits towards the end of the video haha.
Mark great vid. I think I may need this job. My was sitting at a drive thru when I a weird low rattling sound then when I pulled off the lot to a red light it died. Noticed that one of my coil packs was not sparking. Changed it still no fire. Looked up some info and led me to certain sensor that could be bad but my other coil is still firing along with that low noise I heard I would say the belt broke and need to check.
Thanks for the compliment! Hope you got some rest & fixed the problem!
Could have not done this without your info, glad I found it, if you had a tip jar I would contribute
hello.. probably you posted this video time ago but i have a mitsu lancer and my timing belt went off.. you video helped me alot thank you so much ... regards to El paso ;)
Top job Mark,,,,,admire how keep the cam while ya fixing,,,,,,,,,,,,,love it ! Just done a gearbox and transfer case on my Mitsi Legnum / VR4, what a big job, no cam on there haha-
THANKS FOR ALL THE TIPS,Help me a lot,.
Great video. I've done timing belts before but was a little unsure of this one due to the silent shaft belt. I found this video very helpful in showing me what I needed to know.
Don't listen to Ryan...he sounds like an uneducated troll.
I'd really recommend the kit with new pulleys because if the old one(s) wear out they may allow the belt to slip off & you may be in the same boat again. But you know, they may be OK & last...it's hard to say & it's a chance you take. I took a chance too because I knew I should have replaced my water pump while I had everything off but decided not to. At least you know your new water pump will be OK! I hope all works out for you & that there is no damage. Let me know how things come out! Mark
Really good videos. Thank you for taking the time to do it. It was a big help.
Sounds like the belt shred & jumped time but is still in place. You have spark at least on one coil so the cam/crank is turning. As far as the other pack not sparking, yes this could be related to a bad crank position sensor, especially if you changed the coil with a good one. As seen in my video, my sensor was totally tore up & would never have started even with a new belt & in time. Only way to be sure is to take off the timing belt cover to check things out. Let me know how things turn out!
very thorough and informative! thank you!!
It's hard to say without seeing but I imagine if you didn't loosen or remove the tensioner pulley, you may be able to just pull the pin to add the tension. If you already loosed, removed, or replaced the pulley, then yes, I would say the pulley would need adjustment. The two small holes on the pulley should be facing down. That's where I made the coat hanger tool to adjust the pulley. I just made sure the belt seemed fairly tight & couldn't be slipped off by hand at the top CAM sprocket.
I suppose you don't need to if you are sure the oil sprocket is aligned properly with its mark. Like it shows in the video at time line 01:07, I turn the sprocket lightly by hand & it eventually rotates a bit on it's own & then stops near the mark. It won't stop dead on & align with the mark...you would need to align it yourself but you would know that the sprocket is in the correct position. I did the screw driver thing because that's what I found in my research. Thanks for the post!
Does the Waterpump Pulley run off the timing belt, or the serpentine belt with this make and model? If it runs off the timing belt, does that mean in the situation of replacing a water pump, you would have to re time everything again?
Hi M,03 ,my eclipse/2.4 lite is a well maintained since purchase used, I replaced the the idler and timing belts 30k ago, Last week the car shut down driving along highway/ stripped teeth of the idler belt, pieces of rubber teeth destroyed my CPS ,i replace with mitsu belt and sens,but never replaced this reluctor plate,it looks ok and do not see any type damage on it.I did set up as per your video,starts and runs fine butt here is a ticking noise as if somethin was
He wasn't asking you about the ignition timing he was talking about you rotated the crankshaft without having the belt on the camshaft so if you rotated too far with that being an interference motor the pistons could have hit the valves besides that awesome job .
You did a good job on that
Thank you for putting this up.
Thanks for uploading! Super helpful video.
I noticed coolant leak but no holes in radiator. So gonna change water pump and other parts.
Did you have to time the engine after the repair??
I am doing this job right now but not until after the belt blew off so it has a replacement head. I finished that a couple days ago. The lower belt shield was damaged and I have a new shield but there seems to be no crank seal on it. Did they go without a seal behind the vibration dampener? The old shield was eaten and melted by the damaged balancer so I can't tell. I don't believe there is but wanted to be sure.
great video!!! this is a lot to work with...but i thinki could get it after watching this!
Tell me please, I have an Outlander-Airtrek in Brazil, and I hear the same sound from engine. It's normal, or it does have a ball bearing that is worn, thanks! I bought mine with 90000 miles on.
The plate behind the harmonic balance gear what if that got bent? Does it have anything to do with the sensor? my plate is bent and it broke my balance belt and sensor when we cranked the car! can you cut it?
Very intelligent guy. Thanks
would love to have seen how u took some of the stuff off because is my first time but i love your video thanks for saving me $$$$
Sorry John, I'm not sure if you are talking about the Crank Sensor Wheel? It sort of looks a bit like a shield (silver & thin) that rotates for the the crank position sensor. If so, I don't believe there is a seal behind it but am not exactly sure. I looked up some diagrams on the internet for this part & didn't seen anything like a seal with it. Sorry I can't give you a 100% answer.
On Part 1 video at the beginning of time frame 11:01, I pretty much show the exact location of the plug & eventually also use a laser pointer because it is sort of hard to find.
Using a gates timing belt kit from rock auto set perfect tension removed
pin and turned engine over 360. came back to re insert the pin 15
minutes later and turns out the belt jumped 6 teeth. didn't start the
engine yet...I'm confused, any help would be appreciated!
+Andrew Amado - You may have to try again. I'm not sure why you needed to come back to reinsert the pin as that would take the tension off again. Remove the Tensioner again, compress the piston slowly a little at a time with a vise or channel locks & reinsert the pin. Once the CAM mark is correct at TDC, temporarily use nylon tie wraps to hold the belt in place. Install the Tensioner back loosely. Get the remaining marks all lined up again. Once everything is all lined up with the timing marks & you've verified the oil sprocket/balancer are all correct, the belt should still be a bit loose at this time. You will need to make some tension adjustment (like I did with my coat hanger tool) & then pull the pin. Make sure you tighten all the Tensioner bolts at this time before rotating the engine...but make sure you remove the nylon ties first. You shouldn't need to reinsert the pin anymore. Hope the second time does it!
good job but you shoukd have torqued the adjustment on the pre tensioner! critical setting ,4nm i think ?
Nice job man thank you for the video really help me out
Really great video!
hello I am having a problem.. I remove all the bolts and nuts off the motor mount, but my motor mount won't come out ...need help please .. thank you
yes eclipse 00 to 2005 n galant have the same engine plus the block 4g63 is the same one 4g64
I have the exact same car and I replaced my o2 sensor and crankshaft position sensor but my car seems to still shut off while im driving . Do you think its the timing belt that needs to be replaced? Any ideas?
+Brionne Connie If it just shuts off while driving that unfortunately could be a number of problems. Electrical, fuel pump/filter, computer, etc... I don't think it would be the timing belt though. If the belt slipped or was worn out so bad, it probably wouldn't start in the first place let alone allow you to be able to drive for a bit & then have it shut off. What was the reason for replacing the camshaft position sensor? Did it break, get damaged or failed? Did the car start shutting down just after that part was replaced? The reason I ask is even though it was a new part, new parts can also sometimes be bad. That definitely could cause it to maybe run for a bit but then unexpectedly stall out. Also if the sensor is misaligned or not securely tightened. Not saying you should focus on this 100% as the actual problem, but could be possible. It's probably best to take it to someone you trust to check things out. I really hope you are able to get your car running!
Mark, do you use genuine parts or aftermarket parts.
Saw a video that said there is a problem with aftermarket parts.
I pretty much rather use genuine parts but if they are too pricey or not available, I usually see what the local parts stores offer in the way of after market but usually do a bit of research before buying such as how long they should last, what others are saying, and warranty. BTW, sorry for such a late reply...I must have overlooked your post.
Is the plug under the exhaust pipe looks like a bracket have to come off do you use a flat head scredriver to take out
Hi Mark, was just curious about something. I bought a nice Gates kit, but also bought the two OEM belts and thinking on using them instead of the Gates belts. The thing is, the OEM timing belt has been sitting in the brand new package for close to 10 years. You think it’s still good??
I would imagine that the OEM belts are probably still good as long as they weren't stored outside in a shed or in the weather or someplace hot like an attic. But if you don't want to take a chance, I'd go with the new ones. The ones I bought for this job were also Gates.
Mark Kapuscik Awesome, thank you Mark, really appreciate it
md998767 belt tension adjuster is the tool to use instead of the coat hanger. Amazon has it for 16 bucks. Thanks for the vid
Tbone productions I bought one!! But I just don’t understand how it works. I haven’t done the job yet, it was wondering if you tighten the bolt after you have adjusted tension on the belt. Hope I’m explaining this correctly. Lol!!
Now if that's the case I heard these are interference engines and I could've damaged it, what do you know about that? Did your car die on you while driving? Hope I didn't bend rods n pistons by trying to crank. Thanks Mark
touchn the plastic cover,so I puled cover of and dry ran it, still tic tic noise idling and as i rev engin and it changes pitch, so its from that area but al looks ok, rechecked oil pump alignment,okI rechecked everything. i feel it the pickup plate/any suggestions? altrhough it looks fine..and i also cheked outside space between pickup plate and sensor its about 30 thou,so that not touchn an i remove and visualy checkd the cps to assure it not touching the inside of sensor .lost (ty) inadvance
Hey mark I last chatted with you 7 months ago and now I'm able to follow through with the repair. Did find out that the belt had several teeth missing and also the balancer belt broke in half(that small belt). I'm still praying for no valve damage. Also I was only able to buy new belts and water pump only. Couldn't afford the kit, any luck this way? I hope so
Hi Mark. Thanks for posting the video. That was very detailed, and you took great care to consider how the video can really help us... I'm at a loss that my 97 2.4 Eclipse Spyder GS still hasn't started. The initial mystery was that the car was running perfectly fine, and then, after turning off the car for 20 minutes and turning it back on, the car just cranked but didn't start. After a very long search, I finally found that it was the balance shaft belt shredded and took off the sensor. My friend was messing around with the timing belt, so I also see that the belt is 2 teeth off. However, I'm so disappointed, that my car still has no compression. It finally has spark now that I have a new crankshaft position sensor on. Any insight on why I might still have zero compression on all 4 cylinders? It says online that my engine is a interference engine, but once when my timing belt broke without on the freeway, I changed it about 5 months ago, and it worked fine. I have never heard a loud bang neither since the BS belt breaking or anything. Thank you in advance.
+Tien Trinh - Did you get your car running since this post? I sure hope so because no compression at all is not a good sign. I don't think that would occur just with a broken balance belt or timing off a tooth or two. You said that it previously broke on the highway but your were able to get a new belt. I hope the previous issue with the belt breaking on the highway earlier didn't come back to haunt you now. The belt breaking during high speed with those interference engines will trash them most of the time. I would make sure number 1 cylinder is Top Dead Center to start off with & then ensure all the other timing/reference marks are line up properly afterwards & give it another try. Remove the #1 spark plug and insert a small diameter wooden dowel into the spark plug hole until it contacts the top of the piston. As the engine is rotated (best by a ratchet), the piston will force the dowel down & then upward. When the end of the dowel is at its highest point, the engine is at TDC for the #1 cylinder.
+Mark Kapuscik Hey Mark. Thank you for getting back to me. I really appreciate it! On the same day that you commented, my friend sends me two pictures just like this www.google.com/search?q=pistons+marks+from+valve+damage&safe=off&espv=2&biw=1024&bih=572&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj60a37kfHLAhWCuoMKHfnPCKkQ_AUICCgD#imgrc=S5g8LZdKTrKvTM%3A
But only the green circles, and even a bit less damage then that.(I don't know how to do picture attachments.)
So, my best friend said he will get to a valve job soon, and probably doesn't need any work on the pistons. He'll know more once he gets the head off. So, hopefully, it's a friendship deal of $600 or so lol.
+Tien Trinh Also, I just dislike how my crankshaft trigger plate is so close, maybe even touching the sensor. So, hopefully, we don't have to change that too!
NICE vid i did d a head gasket on my friends 2000 mitchubishi eclips
lol i think i made the timing off a tooth on accident going to dig into it once he gets off work the car almost has no power and all cylenders are firing but sounds like it is missing
excelente tutorial
Mark, I know you published this a while ago, but hopefully I can get your help. When I try to remove the crank shaft pulley it won't come off...removing those four bolts should release it right? Please advise
yes. just removing the 4 bolts allows the crank pully to come off. if you haven't done so, try tapping around the pully with a rubber mallet to loosen it. should come off pretty easy. maybe a bit of wd40 too. just make sure to clean well before installing the belt back on.
Thank you, Mark! I should let you know that the method worked. The rest of the job went relatively smoothly considering it was the first time doing the whole job. I appreciate it!
That's great! Glad that the video was helpful to you.
Thanks! Still running so I guess I did it right! :)
sir i was planning to change my timing belt on my galant 2001 4g63 sohc ,i was just thinking that this is the best time to check and to replace some other component can you please give me a list of thing that you think is best to replace while i'm on the process on changing my timing belt ,thank you in advance sir
I definitely suggest changing out all pulleys associated with the timing belt with new ones. Get the kit as it should have the Timing & small Balance belts as well as all the pulleys. I’d recommend replacing the Hydraulic Tensioner too. But probably most important preventive maintenance tip I have would be to replace the water pump since it is right there where you’ll be working. Other things I’d look to inspect or change out with new parts would be the serpentine & power steering belts. Hope this helps!
your advice will help me a lot a really appreciate for your quick respond and help thank you so much sir
Very helpful! thank you!
Yeah...what was I thinking trying to save money! Oh well I had to give up those savings anyway. I gave the Galant to my Son & bought a 2013 Ford Fusion but two months later the AC compressor failed on the Galant & I paid $1,300.00 for new AC parts & labor. I do majority of work on my cars except for AC & automatic transmissions.
Hi i actually had a question i followed all the instructions i bought the timing belt kit with a tensioner but when i start the car it shakes im not sure what went wrong
I would recheck all the timing marks again & make sure all is lined up. Especially the balance belt shaft/oil pump sprocket (what I did with the screw driver). That would make it shake if its off & will notice poor performance. Did the belt break while driving or did you just replace the belt for regular maintenance? If it broke while driving at a high speed, then maybe there is piston/valve damage which would also make the car run bad (if not at all). It doesn't take much speed to cause damage if the belt breaks, maybe 15 mph & more.
+Mark Kapuscik
ive double and trible checked the timing marks also went ahead and removed the belt and followed the video that u have here but still the same acts like it wants to but dont have to many details compression feels and sounds like its good but need to doublecheck compression gauge. might have accidentally fell a couple times. i have full good voltage on one side of the injector circuit and im sure it grounds through the ecm got spark and fuel pump and pressure are good. i own my own shop and have the matco pro series thats the size of a car loaded with special tools but the one thing i need had to be sent back to launch because the scanner stoped coming on can u chech codes like the older model cars by jumping the dlc wires and counting engine light
Hi just want to ask a quick question.. I am not getting no sparks from my ignition coil.. I was driving. Then the engine just shut rite off.. Do you think the timing is off.
I would think even if the timing was off you would still have some spark from the two coils but if the belt broke you probably wouldn’t. If the engine is now turning over much faster than normal with no compression then the belt likely broke. Both coils likely didn’t go bad at the same time.
@@mkapuscik01 ok.. Thanks.. So what i did. I replace 4 new coils. An a new crank shaft possition sencor. Still didn't get no sparks..
@@mkapuscik01 and i also replace a new timing belt with new tensioner.. Because the first belt didn't broke but it was shredded.. Fee grips was rub out. So am still trying.
What's the smaller belt for?? And what dies it effect if that's the only broken one
The small belt is the engine balance shaft belt. If it's broken then you probably will have bad engine vibration...
excellent videos, thank you!
muito bom tira muitas duvidas
Would it be the same process for a Mitsubishi eclipce, really helpful video =)
If it has the same 2.4 engine, I'm pretty sure it would be the same process. In fact, others have mentioned in previous comments that it was the same for their Eclipse. I no longer have the Mitsubishi in this video. I gave it to my youngest Son but is still working!
Stop at frame 26 of video part 2 here. You should be able to see the check pug diagram. again, it is a threaded bolt that you need to remove, Hope this helps.
I stuck a srew through the hole and it just goes all the way in even when it's not timed right any answer
@@YOYO300. You are only placing the screw driver in the hole just to confirm that the balance shaft pully is lined up in the the correct position. It is correct that the screw driver should go in a few inches then you want to turn the small balance pully clockwise until it stops (about a 1/4 turn). That means it is correct then back up the pully counter clockwise until the 2 lines (marks) line up. Re-watch the video again from time frame 0:41 to 2:23 to see what I mean. In this step you are only alinging the small balance shaft...you will still need to perform the rest of the timing steps to get everything back in time & in working order.
coudent find the plug behind the exaust manifold tho....1:10 worked :D
Good work champ :)
Awesome!!!
DO THE DAMM THING MY FREIND!! A1!!
Good.job.
which breaks the start time of this car?
I'm sorry, I'm not sure what you are asking. Can you give a bit more detail? Thanks, Mark
I learn something
md998767 is the tool to use to adjust the belt tension instead of hangar. Amazon has it for16 bucks. Thanx for vid
thank you mark....btw...how DARE you try to save 700 dollars by doing it youself..lol THANK YOU SIR.. now my wife and i dont have to share cars anymore..lol
are they interference engines
To Ardzgmz2010 - I'm trying to figure out to to reply to comments with this new Google +...seems my comments are not posting but here is my reply to you: No. The ignition timing wasn't affected by the timing belt breaking & the car ran perfect. I suppose it wouldn't hurt to check if its hard to start or if you notice loss of power. Thanks for the post! Mark
Great video! Just curious how far did you rotate the crank clockwise before you were able to get the balance shaft belt on. I'm going to do my timing belt and wanted to try this method but i know rotating it too far can get you into trouble. Thanks!
LOL the oil pump was gear was rong XD
help mine i think messed up
What's the problem? Maybe I can help...
BOTTOM LINE IS LEAVE IT TO US THE MECHANICS THAT DO THIS FOR A LIVING AND WERE THE ONES WHO HAVE TO GO BEHIND A PERSON LIKE URS WORK AND FIX UR FUCK UPS BIG TIMES
camshaft sensor