This is what I've been looking for a very long time! Thank you so much! Very well explained.... short and sweet! This video should be promoted... a lot!!!
I could not figure out why every pattern says I need to grade to a size 32 for the hip but when I made the muslin it would be somehow tight in the tummy but with excess fabric at the sides. This is a game changer!
Your video explaining how to adjust a shirt pattern for a large tummy was exactly what I needed for the custom shirt I was making for a special friend. I'd invested over $50 in materials and was very nervous about the fit -- until I watched your video, and then I knew exactly what to do. Thankfully, the rest of the shirt fit my friend just as well as the tummy did! I'm so grateful for not having to figure this out on my own and waste time and resources on trial and error. Thanks!!!!
Omg how useful. I wear suits with tucked in dress shirts for work and really dislike extra fabric bunching around. This might be slightly TMI, but I have endometriosis which has some added complexities like bloating. The extent of it varies from month to month so I am never the same size. I might have to get some shirts adjusted like this for days when my belly is bigger. Thank you very much for explaining how it’s done.
Wow, for years I’ve been making hubbys shirts, just so he can have that space for tummy without the bulky shoulders, and I never even thought I was doing it wrong by adding to the sides, but as soon as I saw your video I thought I bet she says slash. Thankyou for turning on the light for me. Adjusted slashed pattern coming up.
I'm so sorry, I don't purchase other designer's patterns, so I don't know what the exact shape of the pattern pieces are... My first thought is that you can straight the side seams if they are curved inward at the waistline... You can also do this adjustment and then take the side seams in down lower at the hip. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching
Thank you so much. I did try adding to the side seam and it helped but I didn't like how it looked. This should help me make a better fitting shirt. I really appreciate your sharing your skills.
Thank you so much for this video! I love your clear instructional style by drawing, and showing and cutting as you’re explaining! It is so helpful. Is there a chance that you could do a Part 2 to this video where you would discuss what you would do if someone had more of a spread out prominent tummy on the edges instead of just in the middle? Thank you again, ~ Neva
Glad it was helpful! If you need more room along the sides, I would add to the side seams starting a the original edge a few inches above you need to adjust... Then gradual blend out to add what you need (remember that you're adding double when you add to the side seam because you have a left and right side seam). Let me know if this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
Thank you so very much, this is brilliant. Simple and very straightforward and easy to reproduce on any pattern. Do you have a similar adjustment tips and video for big tummy pants???
You can not believe how many videos I've seen, looking for this! Thank you sooooo much! I'm glad I found you 🥰 By the way, I have a big gut and a big bum 😁.
This is just what I needed to make a pattern fit for my OH. I'm using McCalls 6044 which has slight waist shaping, so have already eliminated that, and with this I should end up with a much better front fit. Thank you!
Oh J! J,J,J I am just so inspired by this lesson! I just didn't know this method is what I need to clone my favorite Nightgown without making the top of my bodice too big! Whoopie!!!!!!!!!! I feel like singing! Thanks so much. This opened a world for me!
@@JSternDesigns I'm not on FB but, I can ask my sister to post. I'm sooooo looking forward to Friday. Hoping you will help me tackle the under collar on my hubby's custom super duper shirt with the deeper back neck! I hate that roll on the back!
@@momzilla9491 I’m really not on FB either (my account was hacked in August & they did nothing to fix it) ... I’m on Instagram and here. Email me pics of what the collar is doing on you husband jsterndesigns37@gmail.com :)
@@JSternDesigns It is just the same ancient fold over collar design men have always worn. It is just that I cut the back neck hole about 1/2" deeper. I am trying to figure out how to adjust the under collar pattern to fit the deeper curve. Maybe it should be like a curved waist band? Got to get rid of that ugly roll that forms on the back between the bottom of the yoke and the neck. My daughters Instagram was hacked and it took her 8 months to get it back. Don't mean to alarm you, but your video on your new 3D scan mannequin... Last week someone posted under MY COMMENT, how to hack IG! I'll go back into my sent emails to find the alert I sent my daughter, and let you know where to find it. I will delete this message after you let me know that you have read it. Don't want to encourage others to...
@@JSternDesigns The hack instructions are found on your "DittoForm Studio Tour + My 3-D Body Scan" from Feb 2020. Someone posted it under my Momzilla comment. Let me know that you have read this and then I will delete today's comments. You may want to report or block that viewer. Like, how stupid can someone be ? 'I hacked my friend's IG'.
Great suggestion. I previously tried an adjustment of cutting the opening in the front but didn't lengthen on the side seam. The hem was so crooked. Yours is the correct method. Thanks so much..
Thank you. I just completed a robe for my husband ( s5314) using the full tummy adj. it worked great. If I make it again I will use a different pattern so I can make the top smaller.
I have been wanting to make shirt(s) for my husband that will fit properly. When the center front of his shirt is pulled up, the uneven hang of the hem really makes his belly look larger than it actually is. I had already drafted out an adjustment, but I like yours better.
Thank you for this video! I've been scouring the internet for this exact adjustment. Quick question - is there anything you would change with this adjustment for a zippered jacket? I'm starting to work on a zippered hoodie jacket for my dad, who carries all of his weight in the front in his midsection. I've never sewn a zippered jacket before and need to adjust the pattern to account for 2.5 inches extra tummy right in the front. This was really helpful in figuring it out. I'm fitting from afar and want to avoid any fit weirdness from the adjustment as much as possible.
I'm so happy you found me! I think you'll be fine doing this adjustment to a zippered front... Just be really careful to keep the center front edge straight when you spread the vertical slashes. The extra you add will not pull or push on the zipper because it will be taken up by your dad's shape
Can you do another tutorial on this same topic but explain the the most accurate way to measure how much we need to add horizontally & vertically so we'll know how much to spread the pivots in each direction? this seems to be the one thing about making this adjustment that nobody on you tube has made a tutorial about.
:) The easy way to tell how much you need to add (horizontally) is to measure from side seam to side seam across your tummy and add the amount of ease you would like. This is how much the pattern should measure across the tummy area. Measure the pattern and compare it to your body + ease measurement.... The difference is how much you need to add. ...divide that measurement by 4. That's how much to spread the front (using two slash lines). ...Vertically, the pattern will spread the amount that's needed to keep the CF edge straight. If the hem is pulling up at CF, add to the hem to straighten it! Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
Thank you so much. My hubby has been jealous about my well-fitting dresses, but I have been afraid to make him any shirts because of the bulge. Star Wars/ Star Trek fabric is expensive!
Hi, thank you for teaching us. I wanted to know if you can show us, how to draft a bodice pattern when shoulder to waist is 16” for front and shoulder to back is 14” for back. Thank you!
My pleasure!! I did a Basic Bodice Draft Along! Here's a link to the first video and Free Measurement Chart :) ua-cam.com/play/PLseQVksFDkNseULgqdr3hLKRrbJxZPcov.html
My husband has a long torso and prominent tummy - I usually have to lengthen patterns for him by quite a bit. But I'm planning to try this adjustment this time. Question: Would you do this adjustment before doing any lengthening? (Sorry if this has already been covered, I just found this video.) Thank you for sharing.
That's a great question. I think it's a good idea to get the pattern to agree in vertical length before working on ease/width adjustments. Thanks so much for fitting along with me
Thanks so much! I think I would ignore the darts, so the adjustment as shown here... Then redraw the dart position... but sew them without taking much out... like a pintuck (so you'll still have the look of a waist dart without the shaping you might not need)... Let me know if this makes sense.
I have followed your prominant tummy tutorials; they are great. Tops do wing out on me as I am a size 12 on top and 16 in waist. So I have a fast change of size. Will this method work using a size 12 pattern; can I get sufficient width for a large waist/abdomen?
Because you're adding ease within the pattern, it's distributed across the tummy... This does work better thank blending between sizes... Sometimes when you just add to the side seams, you end up with a winging look because all the ease cannot distribute across the garment... it kinda gets trapped at the side seam. Going from a size 12 to a size 16 is a 4" difference if you're pattern is graded 2" between sizes. Try using this method and also adding to the side seam a little bit to split up the total you need. If the side seams curve in at the waistline, the first thing I would do is fill in those curves by straightening out the side seams... That will give you extra room at your waist right out of the gate! Hope this helps, thanks for fitting along with me
Thank you so much! I need to watch your other fitting videos. 1) Would this work for a simple dress that has an elastic casing and a separate sash to tie at the waist? 2) I need to make simple t-shirt and top patterns. The plus 2x tshirts I get at Kohls do not fit well. The armholes are too lowand armhole too large, so i sew a seam from the edge of the short sleeve to the underarm for modesty. The bust seems to fit but fabric bunches at side of bust. If I pinch the shoulder to where it should be, the side hangs straight but the bust becomes too small. I would need a prominent tummy adjustment if I sewed a tee or top. I don't think I need an FBA. tops. I have a simple pattern for woven fabric. I just wonder what I would need to adjust. I like ease but these tshirts are all wrong. The next size smaller or larger are ridiculously worse in fit.
My Pleasure... You can use this adjustment to add room for your tummy on dress and top patterns. To fit the shoulder, Check out my new series.. Efficient Work Flow for Bodice Fitting. This series works with a non-stretch pattern... but you can use these steps to fit a knit top as well. (You can make a half muslin if your tee is not too snug).. ...I think I may do a knit version to add on to this in the future... For now, here's a link to Part 1: ua-cam.com/video/gNsFm8t_F8o/v-deo.html Hope this helps! Thanks for watching
So sorry for the delayed response. That's a great question.... I would ignore the darts, do the adjustment. Then try on your shirt and pin the darts back in where they are flattering... If you need room in your tummy and you don't want to take out that much ease... You can pin the dart, but sew very close to the fold so you're not taking out ease... but it looks like a waist dart from the public side of your shirt...
Thanks! Yes, you can do this adjustment from the waist seam and vertically down to the hem. If the skirt gets too wide, you can take in the side seam a little bit.
@@JSternDesigns hey I watched your video and I am trying to understand how to do the adjustment..you explained it really good ...I just need to take it in properly ...the waist I am working with is 60 ins exact and I add about 4 inches extra on each side for it not to be snug wile sitting etc...but my method was...I usually add a strip down the whole sides to make up the width to fit the tummy..and that goes straight up and same width at the armhole and tapers to the end of the short sleeve.....but I wanted a way to make it so that I just need the excess for the tummy so sleeve and sides remain the same...so your video was really a Godsend...If I get through I will surely let you know
@@JSternDesigns I am sorry I am referring to shirts and T shirts that he gets as gifts or buy and it's too tight...so I add a strip on either side...but to make a shirt or T shirt from a pattern... I wanted to try your method...so that the top wont be as big as the tummy area...I wont know until I try...
This has been helpful and adresses my problem but I've got one more question. It's a woman's tummy. Sitting exactly in the middle of the front. Looking like a dome or cupola. Beginning directly at the underbust and going down to the navel. What to do with the bustdart (coming from the sideseam)? Thank you so much for answering. Love from Germany.
:) That is a very timely question! Today on Fit Tip Tuesday I'm sharing how to rotate bust darts! I think in your case, maybe try rotating the bust dart to the hem.. This will close the dart and redistribute the ease to the hem. You don't have to sew the dart closed... reducing how much more you have to spread the pattern for you belly! Check out Fit Tip Tuesday today at 12:00 pm edt! Thanks for watching
Thank you very much for this video, you have explained the process in a way that I can understand. I am trying this adjustment on a V neck cardigan and if I were to cut the horizontal line just below the arm then it would cut into the V of the cardigan. Should I do it this way or should I draw the horizontal line under where the v ends? It is a low V neck cardigan and the V ends approximately 2 inches above the waistline.
Thank you for sewing along with me! You can draw your line right below the V neckline because it's still above your waistline. This will be easier to maintain the straight CF edge. Keep me posted if you have more questions!
J, speaking of Men's Shirts; the same thing that happens on my hubby's quality store bought shirts happens on his Suit Jackets. A roll of excess fabric at the back of the neck pushes out. Gentleman Jim - Master Taylor says it is because the back neck hole is too shallow/straight. I draped my husband's back and made a deeper hole (making sure that I have a proper right angle at the center seam) but how am I to make the corresponding under collar? I've been racking my brains while searching for a lesson on YT, and I haven't found one. Could you please?????? I am even dreaming about this BULGE. YUK! Have a sunny day Sweetie!
Just replacing my earlier comment where it needed to go. Laughing, Your playlist is always one of the first I search, then I start combing YT. This is the talk Gentleman Jim gave on the subject. He doesn't show the How. "Master Tailoring Tip: Lowering the Back Collar to Get Rid of Excess Fabric Roll on a Jacket"
Hi Momzilla... I am so embarrassed that I did not get to your question until now.. Do you still need help with the under collar? If so, I'll put this topic on my short list of upcoming tutorials!
@@JSternDesigns LOL, Well yes. I put the project away because I couldn't solve the problem I find that the drafting skills most of us learn on UA-cam won't work for a mature figure. Ug! "Come down an 1/2" to 1" then draw your neck hole." It's no wonder men's shirt and jackets Turttle Up around their neck when the lean forward! Jennifer, how do I make a shaped under collar? How do we even measure the neck correctly? It all starts with that neck hole!
Thank you so much for this tutorial I kept checking all day it was brilliant, one question do you think there is a limit that you would go to in inches to enlarge the tummy area as I said I had to add about 4” my husband has curvature of the spine which throws his tummy out a bit more. Once again this will help so much and doesn’t look to complicated. X
I think on a full size pattern you could spread the vertical grainlines 1” each... which would give you a total of 4” across the front (I was working with a small half-scale pattern and I could spread them 1/2” easily)
So can I assume for every 1/2 " you added at the top adds an inch of width at the bottom? So to increase 3" in the tummy, I should increase the top 1.5 inches, YES?????
The horizontal spread of the pattern is controlled by how much you spread the pieces at the bottom. Spread the bottom edge the amount you need and then make sure the CF/CB is straight as you secure the horizontal slash/spread with tape. Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
This is just what I was looking for. Just an extra question, if my pattern has a bust dart in it, would you fold up the dart then do the adjustment you describe then add the dart back at the end?
Yes you can, just make sure that the CF edge is straight when you true it up... That way you can cut the pattern piece on the fold. So sorry for the delayed response.
Thanks so much... and sorry for the delayed response! Once you have a fit muslin, you can decide how much more you need. Then divide that total amount by 2 and spread the front piece. For example, if you need 2" of additional ease, spread the front 1". If you don't have a fit muslin, measure the front of the pattern piece and measure yourself from side seam to side seam. Then compare these measurements to determine how much additional ease you need. Let me know if this helps! Thanks Jen
I love your explanations for fitting issues. Does the same principle apply if you haver a full midriff? Also if there is a dart there, do you do an FBA and spread below the dart area?
Yes, you can do this adjustment for a full midriff... I would draw the horizontal line up a little high to agree with where your midriff is. If there is a waist dart, I would either not sew it or sew it like a pintuck to make it look like there is a dart there without taking out too much ease. Hope this helps!
Yes you can! This would work better than simply taking in the side seams because you're removing ease from within the garment. Thanks for fitting along with me
So good!! I may be making a shirt for my husband.. he has a full belly but lilely from a sway back so i intend to do ‘sway first and then full belly…. Do you think thats the way to sort out the issue? 11th july 2023.
Thanks! It does sound like you can do a sway back adjustment and then this adjustment to make room in the front for a full belly. Thanks for fitting along with me
I’m a little confused. So the horizontal line that you lowered one half inch? How do you determine how much to lower that line? Is it always a half inch or is there a rule to this? I’d loved your video, I’ve been doing full belly adjustments with a different method and this looks so much easier.
That's a great question. The amount the pattern spread horizontally is determined by how much you have spread the pattern to make the center front straight under the adjustment. ...So, basically when you spread the vertical slash lines to add room, you will need to create a gap when you position the adjusted section back into position. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching
Thanks for this. I'm a newbie with a belly. My question is (apologies if its obvious) how do you know what size waist to cut of doing this adjustment and how much spread I need my pattern finish garment measurement is 37 my body plus ease is.49.1/2"
:) Depending on where your fullness in your tummy is, if you just add the extra ease to the side seam, it may just hang out there vs. adding it within the pattern where you may need the fullness... Thanks for fitting along with me
That’s a great question! Measure down from your shoulder to where your tummy starts ...then measure from the shoulder of the pattern down an equal amount to your measurement. This is where you can draw the horizontal guideline. Then measure across the pattern a couple inches down and compare to your tummy measurement. Use these two measurements to decide how much you need to add ... let me know if this helps!
@@JSternDesigns thank you so much for the quick response. I know you are really busy. I was just kinda trying to estimate and make a muslin, but this makes perfect sense. I will let you know how it goes. Again many thanks.
@@JSternDesigns Thanks for the great video, J. Your advice in ^ this ^ reply is so very helpful - Imma try it out on my favourite shirt pattern over the festive break. Cheers!
Will this work on a blouse with a side bust dart? The only thing I don't care for is hemming a curved hemline -- I never get a neat finish either on woven or knits when the hem is curved
Yes, you can use this technique to add room for a prominent tummy in a top with a bust dart. You can also add to the CF and Side Seam edges to straight out the hem if you don't want to hem a curve! Thanks for fitting along with me
Hello Jen, thank you for your video on a prominent tummy. I’m working on adjusting a pattern which has a lot of ease around the tummy. I’ve done an FBA of 1 ½ “ which has resulted in 4” too much fabric draping over my tummy. I made a “muslin” and I temporarily fixed the problem by taking our the excess fabric that was draping over the tummy with a couple of darts. My temporary darts have two inch, each, width at the hem, going straight up from the hem, toward my apex and stopping just above my waist (a total of a four inch adjustment). This worked well but I want to incorporate the change into my paper pattern. Would you bring in the front side seam, or is there a pattern adjustment which is the reverse of the method you used in this video?
You can do this adjustment in reverse to take in the excess fabric... The horizontal line that opens in this slash and spread adjustment will actually overlap when you slash and overlap along the vertical slash lines. I would add the amount that overlapped along the horizontal slash back onto the hem so it doesn't pick up under your bust. Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
Question: if this were the bodice of a dress and you needed to attach a skirt, how do you true the bottom edge so you get a straight waist seam? Many thanks!
That's a great question... Actually, I don't think I would try to straighten the lower edge... The curve at CF for a prominent tummy will be picked up by the curve of your tummy. You do need to increase the width of the top edge of the skirt piece so it agrees in length. Hope this helps, thanks for fitting along with me!
Just to say thank you again, this worked very well and the two ladies I was sewing for were delighted to have garments that fit well and had a level waist instead of it being tugged up at the front!
How would I do this adjustment on a top with a empire waist where the top half & bottom half of both the front & back bodices are separate pattern pieces or in a geometric raglan t-shirt where again just like the empire waist top; the front & back bodices have a separate top & bottom piece?
That' makes it so much easier. Spread the bottom half of the pattern. This will create a curved top edge... sew curved edge to the bottom edge of the top half. Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
I have been looking for something like this for a long time ...I will take my time and listen to everything you said and I will try it ...I am dealing with a 60 inch waist belly measurement...I so want the person to get a proper fitted shirt......will this work for T shirts also? Thank you
So happy you found this (and that it helped!)... You should be able to use this technique on any top. Just be careful to keep the CF straight so you can cut it out on the fold. Keep me posted if you need help with it, thanks for watching, Jen
@@JSternDesigns thanks so much for your reply...I havent started yet want to make sure I understand everything...its for my son right around his tummy is 60ins and it's so true what you said...I usually add on the amount on the sides of any T shirts or shirts he buys or gets as gifts to get the excess to fit him.. and it really goes up in the front... its...roomy for him to be comfortable, but I never like how it hangs....but I sometimes make T shirts or shirts.. from a pattern I made for him...so I will use that pattern to create one with the ease in front...that's wat is confusing me...I am not a professional but I sew for myself and my family...so I was wondering if I have to use that same exact pattern that I use to make his shirts or T shirts and just adjust the front.? Or do I have to make over a new pattern with new measurements
@@JSternDesigns I really will appreciate your advice...because I am so happy I came across your video...so I can finally make his shirts to hang properly....
@@JSternDesigns So I watched and watched your video to make sure I understood...so concerning the firm Belly ...my husband has a firm smaller belly his highest point on his belly is 43 all around measurement and my son had a larger belly that does spill out to the sides...belly is 63 all around measurement. my husband chest is 40 and my son is 60....as I said I am self taught so I am not a professional ...so do I make the pattern using the width of the chest and then add the extra ease for the belly to fit in the new pattern
I saw someone commented about a 60" belly..I have that issue with a client I am making reenactment clothing for. He has over a 60" belly. The largest pattern I have is a 54". My question is once I get the full belly adjustment done, for that large of a belly, the welt pockets and pocket flaps are a mess. Do you have any tips on how to get the pocket placement right again? I'm making him an 18th century waistcoat and frock coat. Thanks
ooooh, I could take a stab at that question, but I have friends who specialize in that... I'm copy pasting your question over to them to see what they say... Stay Tuned!
Here's the reply back I got from my friend about flap placement Hope it helps you! "Honestly I would probably just pin on a flap onto the muslin and remark it. They will end up proportionally further to the side seam than "usual" because most people don't want kangaroo pockets"
So sorry but I've forgotten my following question. When I've made the slash and spread across the tummy, sitting as a dome directly under the underbust down to the navel, how would I reduce this excess fabric at the lower part of my torso? I don't want to have a tent around my slim hips. Thanks again 😘
After you spread the pattern vertically, you can take in the side seams to slim the fit at the hem. Also, double check that you don't add more than you need when you slash and spread... sometimes I go over-board and spread too much! Thanks for fitting along with me
That's a great question... It's a balance between picking the best starting size and adding where you need it. You can figure out how much you need by making a half muslin out of something stable and then slash the fabric and use masking tape to hold the slashed pieces as you work to spread them the right amount to fit your shape, if you feel like you're spreading two vertical slashes too wide, you can add more. Then you can use the slashed up muslin to adjust your paper pattern piece. Hope that helps, thanks for fitting along with me!
That's a great question. If really depends on the size and style of the pattern you're working with. You can make a half muslin out of a stable fabric. Then slash and spread the front as shown in this tutorial. You can use masking tape to hold the slashed pieces in place as you work to spread them the amount you need. If you feel like you're spreading two vertical slash lines too wide, you can add more to spread out the amount you need to add. Then use the muslin sample to adjust your paper pattern. Hope that helps, thanks for fitting along with me
This is a great video, thank you. I don't really understand how the side seam is any different between your method and just adding width. The slash/spread adjustment changes the hemline, but if the end result of both is that the seamline is an X° angle off of the grainline how will that affect the way the shirt hangs differently?
That's a great question! Extra fabric added to the side seam edge might just hang out at the side, creating a tent shape. If you evenly distribute the ease across the front, you're adding where you need it. I discovered this when I was trying on tops in the store... shirts that were too big for me had "wings" along the side seams created by the extra fabric hanging out there. That being said... it also depends on your shape. If you are wide "depth wise" ... adding to the side seams will create more room at the inseam to allow the shirt to hang and fit better front to back. Thanks for fitting along with me.
Is there a maximum that you can extend it to for a very big tummy and how to you guess how much you need. Also I’ve made blouse with pleat at center front so plenty of room but the front rises up inches, how do I correct this please?
To determine how much you need to add, measure around your fullest tummy. Then Measure the pattern at the full tummy level to see what the difference is. Add a little for ease then divide the total amount in half. This is the amount you will need to add to get your top to fit. Spread the pattern at the hem no more than an inch for each slash line. So add more slash lines if you need to spread two more than 1" each. This will help true up the hem and put the pattern back together more easily. To fix the hem that's picking up at CF... add to the length of the hem at CF and blend back to the original length at the side seam. Hope this help! Thanks for fitting along with me!
If my side seam goes to the back from maybe my mid hip about 3/4" on each side. Could that mean l need a fully tummy adjustment or maybe a full butt adjustment. This is on a t shirt knit pattern. Thanks
Usually if the side seams are pulling to the back, that means the back needs more ease... so add to the back side seams to see if that will help them hang straight. (Or, you could do this adjustment to the back shirt pattern piece) Thanks for watching
Wow! I'm not even a novice sewist yet, but this is the video I absolutely needed, and the video that gave you a new subscriber!
Welcome to my Channel! ...and thanks for fitting along with me
Just what I needed to know!
Yay, I'm so happy to hear that! Thanks for watching
This is what I've been looking for a very long time! Thank you so much! Very well explained.... short and sweet! This video should be promoted... a lot!!!
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for fitting along with me!
Thanks a lot! Very good explanation.
I could not figure out why every pattern says I need to grade to a size 32 for the hip but when I made the muslin it would be somehow tight in the tummy but with excess fabric at the sides. This is a game changer!
Yay... I'm happy this helps, thanks for fitting along with me
Your video explaining how to adjust a shirt pattern for a large tummy was exactly what I needed for the custom shirt I was making for a special friend. I'd invested over $50 in materials and was very nervous about the fit -- until I watched your video, and then I knew exactly what to do. Thankfully, the rest of the shirt fit my friend just as well as the tummy did! I'm so grateful for not having to figure this out on my own and waste time and resources on trial and error. Thanks!!!!
I am so happy this helps you!! Thank you so much & for fitting along with me!
This is incredibly helpful, thank you!
My Pleasure, I'm happy to hear that it helps you, thanks for fitting along with me
Great advice. Thank you for your calm and thorough approach to this problem. Blessings!
Thanks so much... (I need all the blessings I can get!) Thanks for fitting along with me
This was so helpful and thorough! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for fitting along with me
Thanks. Your explanation was easy to understand.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for fitting along with me
Very helpful! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for fitting along with you
This is helpful. Thanks.
So happy to hear that this helps you, thanks for watching
This is exactly what I needed for a man’s vest I need to adjust. Thank you.
You’re welcome 😊 Thanks for watching!
Great video, and it was exactly what I was looking for! Thank you for such detailed, concise, and easy to understand instructions :-)
You're very welcome!
Love your clear & concise videos! Thank you for sharing these very helpful tips!
You are so welcome! Thank you for fitting along with me
Thank you for sharing this very informative & clearly explained tutorial its one of the best I've seen so far.
Glad it was helpful!
Omg how useful. I wear suits with tucked in dress shirts for work and really dislike extra fabric bunching around. This might be slightly TMI, but I have endometriosis which has some added complexities like bloating. The extent of it varies from month to month so I am never the same size. I might have to get some shirts adjusted like this for days when my belly is bigger. Thank you very much for explaining how it’s done.
So happy this helps you!! Thanks for watching
Wow, for years I’ve been making hubbys shirts, just so he can have that space for tummy without the bulky shoulders, and I never even thought I was doing it wrong by adding to the sides, but as soon as I saw your video I thought I bet she says slash. Thankyou for turning on the light for me. Adjusted slashed pattern coming up.
So happy this helps!! Thanks for fitting along with me
I'd like to see a full belly adjustment (when tummy is bigger than hips) for the Love Notions Melody Dolman.
I'm so sorry, I don't purchase other designer's patterns, so I don't know what the exact shape of the pattern pieces are... My first thought is that you can straight the side seams if they are curved inward at the waistline... You can also do this adjustment and then take the side seams in down lower at the hip. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching
Thank you so much. I did try adding to the side seam and it helped but I didn't like how it looked. This should help me make a better fitting shirt. I really appreciate your sharing your skills.
So happy this helps... .Keep me posted if you have specific questions on anything... and thanks for watching!
Brilliant, and exactly on time! I was just researing this exact adjustment last night AND, I didn't like what I saw!
J saves the day, again! xox
Yay!!! Next time you’re researching, check in with me!
Thank you! I have been struggling for a perfect tee fit for my partner. This helps so much!
You are so welcome! Thank you for fitting along with me
Thank you so much for this video! I love your clear instructional style by drawing, and showing and cutting as you’re explaining! It is so helpful.
Is there a chance that you could do a Part 2 to this video where you would discuss what you would do if someone had more of a spread out prominent tummy on the edges instead of just in the middle?
Thank you again,
~ Neva
Glad it was helpful! If you need more room along the sides, I would add to the side seams starting a the original edge a few inches above you need to adjust... Then gradual blend out to add what you need (remember that you're adding double when you add to the side seam because you have a left and right side seam). Let me know if this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
Thanks was useful 🤝🌻
So happy this helps you! Thanks for watching
You help me alot thanks
Glad to hear that.. Thanks for fitting along with me
Thank you. Really great and easy to understand lesson. Will use all the time.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for fitting along with me
New way to fit a tummy. Thanks Jennifer.
My pleasure! Thanks for watching
as a man with a belly trying to fit a waistcoat pattern... thank you!
Sorry for the delayed response... Happy to help!
Thank you so much.
My pleasure, I'm so happy this helps you. Thanks for fitting along with me
Your videos are amazing. Both fit adjustments I needed you had a video for that was clear, concise, and informative. Thank you!
Thank you so much! and thank you for fitting along with me
Thank you so very much, this is brilliant. Simple and very straightforward and easy to reproduce on any pattern. Do you have a similar adjustment tips and video for big tummy pants???
Thanks so much... (Sorry for the delayed response) ... Here's a link to a Prominent Tummy Adjustment for Pants ua-cam.com/video/a5hAmV1FQsY/v-deo.html
Thanks
Thank you so much!!
You can not believe how many videos I've seen, looking for this! Thank you sooooo much! I'm glad I found you 🥰 By the way, I have a big gut and a big bum 😁.
I'm so happy you found me too! Please keep me posted if you have any specific fitting questions. Thanks for following along with me!
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you! This will help me with fitting my hip length bodice.
You're so welcome!
I've revisited this as needed, thanks!
So happy to hear that this helps you! Thanks for fitting along with me
Thank you so much! this is really helpful and very clearly explained.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for fitting along with me. Happy Holidays
Thanks a lot and God bless you ! Just what I needed.
Glad it helped! Thanks for fitting along with me
This is just what I needed to make a pattern fit for my OH. I'm using McCalls 6044 which has slight waist shaping, so have already eliminated that, and with this I should end up with a much better front fit. Thank you!
So happy to hear this helps... Thanks for fitting along with me
Will this work with a pattern that has a bust dart?
Oh J! J,J,J I am just so inspired by this lesson! I just didn't know this method is what I need to clone my favorite Nightgown without making the top of my bodice too big!
Whoopie!!!!!!!!!! I feel like singing! Thanks so much. This opened a world for me!
Awww thank you so much! Send me a pic and I'll share it on my Community page when you finish!
@@JSternDesigns I'm not on FB but, I can ask my sister to post. I'm sooooo looking forward to Friday. Hoping you will help me tackle the under collar on my hubby's custom super duper shirt with the deeper back neck! I hate that roll on the back!
@@momzilla9491 I’m really not on FB either (my account was hacked in August & they did nothing to fix it) ... I’m on Instagram and here. Email me pics of what the collar is doing on you husband jsterndesigns37@gmail.com :)
@@JSternDesigns It is just the same ancient fold over collar design men have always worn. It is just that I cut the back neck hole about 1/2" deeper. I am trying to figure out how to adjust the under collar pattern to fit the deeper curve. Maybe it should be like a curved waist band? Got to get rid of that ugly roll that forms on the back between the bottom of the yoke and the neck.
My daughters Instagram was hacked and it took her 8 months to get it back. Don't mean to alarm you, but your video on your new 3D scan mannequin... Last week someone posted under MY COMMENT, how to hack IG! I'll go back into my sent emails to find the alert I sent my daughter, and let you know where to find it. I will delete this message after you let me know that you have read it. Don't want to encourage others to...
@@JSternDesigns The hack instructions are found on your "DittoForm Studio Tour + My 3-D Body Scan" from Feb 2020. Someone posted it under my Momzilla comment. Let me know that you have read this and then I will delete today's comments. You may want to report or block that viewer. Like, how stupid can someone be ? 'I hacked my friend's IG'.
Always learn something new! Thanks for your great tutorials!
My pleasure! Thanks for fitting along with me
Thank you. Just what I've been looking for.
So happy this helped! Thanks for fitting along with me
Great suggestion. I previously tried an adjustment of cutting the opening in the front but didn't lengthen on the side seam. The hem was so crooked. Yours is the correct method. Thanks so much..
Thanks Lyndalee!
Thank you. I just completed a robe for my husband ( s5314) using the full tummy adj. it worked great. If I make it again I will use a different pattern so I can make the top smaller.
So happy to help! Thanks for watching!
Thank you! Will try for my next pattern.
Thanks so much.... Good Luck~ Thanks you for fitting along with me
I have been wanting to make shirt(s) for my husband that will fit properly. When the center front of his shirt is pulled up, the uneven hang of the hem really makes his belly look larger than it actually is.
I had already drafted out an adjustment, but I like yours better.
:) Keep me posted, I'd love to see how your husband's shirts come out!
Very useful for me. Thanks Jen. 💐
You're so welcome!
Thanks. Clearly explained and very helpful.
Thanks! and thanks for watching
Thank you for this video! I've been scouring the internet for this exact adjustment. Quick question - is there anything you would change with this adjustment for a zippered jacket?
I'm starting to work on a zippered hoodie jacket for my dad, who carries all of his weight in the front in his midsection. I've never sewn a zippered jacket before and need to adjust the pattern to account for 2.5 inches extra tummy right in the front. This was really helpful in figuring it out. I'm fitting from afar and want to avoid any fit weirdness from the adjustment as much as possible.
I'm so happy you found me! I think you'll be fine doing this adjustment to a zippered front... Just be really careful to keep the center front edge straight when you spread the vertical slashes. The extra you add will not pull or push on the zipper because it will be taken up by your dad's shape
@@JSternDesigns Thank you!
Thanks!
So happy this helps you... and Thank You!
Appreciate your tutorial, ✋✋✋
Thanks so much!
Thank you. I’m sewing men shirt Kiki sew 3250. &I really need to increase the tummy area. I’ll let you know how it turns out. 👍
:) I'm so sorry I didn't see your comment until now... How did your shirt turn out?
Can you do another tutorial on this same topic but explain the the most accurate way to measure how much we need to add horizontally & vertically so we'll know how much to spread the pivots in each direction? this seems to be the one thing about making this adjustment that nobody on you tube has made a tutorial about.
:) The easy way to tell how much you need to add (horizontally) is to measure from side seam to side seam across your tummy and add the amount of ease you would like. This is how much the pattern should measure across the tummy area. Measure the pattern and compare it to your body + ease measurement.... The difference is how much you need to add. ...divide that measurement by 4. That's how much to spread the front (using two slash lines). ...Vertically, the pattern will spread the amount that's needed to keep the CF edge straight. If the hem is pulling up at CF, add to the hem to straighten it! Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
Perfect explanation thank you👍👍
Glad it was helpful!
This is super helpful thank you!
You're so welcome! Sorry for the delayed response.
Great tutorial! Thanks so much for sharing this information!
You are so welcome! Thanks for fitting along with me
Very clever. This is a new one for me.
Thanks Kay
Thank you so much. My hubby has been jealous about my well-fitting dresses, but I have been afraid to make him any shirts because of the bulge. Star Wars/ Star Trek fabric is expensive!
Yay I'm so happy this helps you... May the force and fit be with you!! :) Thanks for watching
Hi, thank you for teaching us. I wanted to know if you can show us, how to draft a bodice pattern when shoulder to waist is 16” for front and shoulder to back is 14” for back.
Thank you!
My pleasure!! I did a Basic Bodice Draft Along! Here's a link to the first video and Free Measurement Chart :) ua-cam.com/play/PLseQVksFDkNseULgqdr3hLKRrbJxZPcov.html
My husband has a long torso and prominent tummy - I usually have to lengthen patterns for him by quite a bit. But I'm planning to try this adjustment this time. Question: Would you do this adjustment before doing any lengthening? (Sorry if this has already been covered, I just found this video.) Thank you for sharing.
That's a great question. I think it's a good idea to get the pattern to agree in vertical length before working on ease/width adjustments. Thanks so much for fitting along with me
Wonderful video! How would you go about this with say, A waistcoat that has darts?
Thanks so much! I think I would ignore the darts, so the adjustment as shown here... Then redraw the dart position... but sew them without taking much out... like a pintuck (so you'll still have the look of a waist dart without the shaping you might not need)... Let me know if this makes sense.
I have followed your prominant tummy tutorials; they are great. Tops do wing out on me as I am a size 12 on top and 16 in waist. So I have a fast change of size. Will this method work using a size 12 pattern; can I get sufficient width for a large waist/abdomen?
Because you're adding ease within the pattern, it's distributed across the tummy... This does work better thank blending between sizes... Sometimes when you just add to the side seams, you end up with a winging look because all the ease cannot distribute across the garment... it kinda gets trapped at the side seam. Going from a size 12 to a size 16 is a 4" difference if you're pattern is graded 2" between sizes. Try using this method and also adding to the side seam a little bit to split up the total you need. If the side seams curve in at the waistline, the first thing I would do is fill in those curves by straightening out the side seams... That will give you extra room at your waist right out of the gate! Hope this helps, thanks for fitting along with me
Thank you so much! I need to watch your other fitting videos. 1) Would this work for a simple dress that has an elastic casing and a separate sash to tie at the waist? 2) I need to make simple t-shirt and top patterns. The plus 2x tshirts I get at Kohls do not fit well. The armholes are too lowand armhole too large, so i sew a seam from the edge of the short sleeve to the underarm for modesty. The bust seems to fit but fabric bunches at side of bust. If I pinch the shoulder to where it should be, the side hangs straight but the bust becomes too small. I would need a prominent tummy adjustment if I sewed a tee or top. I don't think I need an FBA. tops. I have a simple pattern for woven fabric. I just wonder what I would need to adjust. I like ease but these tshirts are all wrong. The next size smaller or larger are ridiculously worse in fit.
My Pleasure... You can use this adjustment to add room for your tummy on dress and top patterns. To fit the shoulder, Check out my new series.. Efficient Work Flow for Bodice Fitting. This series works with a non-stretch pattern... but you can use these steps to fit a knit top as well. (You can make a half muslin if your tee is not too snug).. ...I think I may do a knit version to add on to this in the future... For now, here's a link to Part 1: ua-cam.com/video/gNsFm8t_F8o/v-deo.html Hope this helps! Thanks for watching
@@JSternDesigns You are a gem. Thank you.
Jenniferproof cutting mat ... 😂🤣😂🤣😍
Great ...
:)
If you have darts, do you just draw the vertical lines outside the darts?
So sorry for the delayed response. That's a great question.... I would ignore the darts, do the adjustment. Then try on your shirt and pin the darts back in where they are flattering... If you need room in your tummy and you don't want to take out that much ease... You can pin the dart, but sew very close to the fold so you're not taking out ease... but it looks like a waist dart from the public side of your shirt...
Great explanation Jen! Thank you. That will be extremely useful.
Do you sell your pattern paper?
Thanks! I get mine from Pandatrim.com
Great instructions, Jane! Thank you so much for this vlog. I take it this method will work for a shift dress also?
Thanks! Yes, you can do this adjustment from the waist seam and vertically down to the hem. If the skirt gets too wide, you can take in the side seam a little bit.
Wonderful explanation
I tried working it on a bomber sleeve less jacket but struggled
Chest 56” waist 62” hip 52”
Hi... Did this end up helping you?
@@JSternDesigns hey I watched your video and I am trying to understand how to do the adjustment..you explained it really good ...I just need to take it in properly ...the waist I am working with is 60 ins exact and I add about 4 inches extra on each side for it not to be snug wile sitting etc...but my method was...I usually add a strip down the whole sides to make up the width to fit the tummy..and that goes straight up and same width at the armhole and tapers to the end of the short sleeve.....but I wanted a way to make it so that I just need the excess for the tummy so sleeve and sides remain the same...so your video was really a Godsend...If I get through I will surely let you know
@@JSternDesigns I am sorry I am referring to shirts and T shirts that he gets as gifts or buy and it's too tight...so I add a strip on either side...but to make a shirt or T shirt from a pattern... I wanted to try your method...so that the top wont be as big as the tummy area...I wont know until I try...
Perfect timing for me! 😊
Yay... so happy to hear!
This has been helpful and adresses my problem but I've got one more question. It's a woman's tummy. Sitting exactly in the middle of the front. Looking like a dome or cupola. Beginning directly at the underbust and going down to the navel. What to do with the bustdart (coming from the sideseam)? Thank you so much for answering. Love from Germany.
:) That is a very timely question! Today on Fit Tip Tuesday I'm sharing how to rotate bust darts! I think in your case, maybe try rotating the bust dart to the hem.. This will close the dart and redistribute the ease to the hem. You don't have to sew the dart closed... reducing how much more you have to spread the pattern for you belly! Check out Fit Tip Tuesday today at 12:00 pm edt! Thanks for watching
@@JSternDesigns thank you so much for answering. Love from Germany
Thank you very much for this video, you have explained the process in a way that I can understand. I am trying this adjustment on a V neck cardigan and if I were to cut the horizontal line just below the arm then it would cut into the V of the cardigan. Should I do it this way or should I draw the horizontal line under where the v ends? It is a low V neck cardigan and the V ends approximately 2 inches above the waistline.
Thank you for sewing along with me! You can draw your line right below the V neckline because it's still above your waistline. This will be easier to maintain the straight CF edge. Keep me posted if you have more questions!
J, speaking of Men's Shirts; the same thing that happens on my hubby's quality store bought shirts happens on his Suit Jackets. A roll of excess fabric at the back of the neck pushes out.
Gentleman Jim - Master Taylor says it is because the back neck hole is too shallow/straight.
I draped my husband's back and made a deeper hole (making sure that I have a proper right angle at the center seam) but how am I to make the corresponding under collar? I've been racking my brains while searching for a lesson on YT, and I haven't found one. Could you please?????? I am even dreaming about this BULGE. YUK!
Have a sunny day Sweetie!
Just replacing my earlier comment where it needed to go.
Laughing, Your playlist is always one of the first I search, then I start combing YT. This is the talk Gentleman Jim gave on the subject. He doesn't show the How. "Master Tailoring Tip: Lowering the Back Collar to Get Rid of Excess Fabric Roll on a Jacket"
Hi Momzilla... I am so embarrassed that I did not get to your question until now.. Do you still need help with the under collar? If so, I'll put this topic on my short list of upcoming tutorials!
@@JSternDesigns LOL, Well yes. I put the project away because I couldn't solve the problem
I find that the drafting skills most of us learn on UA-cam won't work for a mature figure. Ug! "Come down an 1/2" to 1" then draw your neck hole."
It's no wonder men's shirt and jackets Turttle Up around their neck when the lean forward!
Jennifer, how do I make a shaped under collar? How do we even measure the neck correctly? It all starts with that neck hole!
Thank you so much for this tutorial I kept checking all day it was brilliant, one question do you think there is a limit that you would go to in inches to enlarge the tummy area as I said I had to add about 4” my husband has curvature of the spine which throws his tummy out a bit more. Once again this will help so much and doesn’t look to complicated. X
I think on a full size pattern you could spread the vertical grainlines 1” each... which would give you a total of 4” across the front (I was working with a small half-scale pattern and I could spread them 1/2” easily)
Thank you so much cant wait to give it a try.
So can I assume for every 1/2 " you added at the top adds an inch of width at the bottom? So to increase 3" in the tummy, I should increase the top 1.5 inches, YES?????
The horizontal spread of the pattern is controlled by how much you spread the pieces at the bottom. Spread the bottom edge the amount you need and then make sure the CF/CB is straight as you secure the horizontal slash/spread with tape. Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
This is just what I was looking for. Just an extra question, if my pattern has a bust dart in it, would you fold up the dart then do the adjustment you describe then add the dart back at the end?
You can do this adjustment under the bust dart at your waistline.... The dart should not be in the way! Thanks for fitting along with me
@@JSternDesigns Fantastic, that's what I've tried thank you!
I have a similar problem with my abdomen. I want more room in my t shirts. Should I do a similar revision?
Yes you can, just make sure that the CF edge is straight when you true it up... That way you can cut the pattern piece on the fold. So sorry for the delayed response.
Your video gives me hope of fitting a pattern properly to my shape. How would you calculate how much to spread the front down to get a proper fit?
Thanks so much... and sorry for the delayed response! Once you have a fit muslin, you can decide how much more you need. Then divide that total amount by 2 and spread the front piece. For example, if you need 2" of additional ease, spread the front 1". If you don't have a fit muslin, measure the front of the pattern piece and measure yourself from side seam to side seam. Then compare these measurements to determine how much additional ease you need. Let me know if this helps! Thanks Jen
I love your explanations for fitting issues. Does the same principle apply if you haver a full midriff? Also if there is a dart there, do you do an FBA and spread below the dart area?
Yes, you can do this adjustment for a full midriff... I would draw the horizontal line up a little high to agree with where your midriff is. If there is a waist dart, I would either not sew it or sew it like a pintuck to make it look like there is a dart there without taking out too much ease. Hope this helps!
Great! So. I can do the reverse if i want to reduce protuberance around the abdomen?
Yes you can! This would work better than simply taking in the side seams because you're removing ease from within the garment. Thanks for fitting along with me
So good!! I may be making a shirt for my husband.. he has a full belly but lilely from a sway back so i intend to do ‘sway first and then full belly…. Do you think thats the way to sort out the issue?
11th july 2023.
Thanks! It does sound like you can do a sway back adjustment and then this adjustment to make room in the front for a full belly. Thanks for fitting along with me
This was v helpful. Question for you! How would you personally make a full seat adjustment on a shift dress?
I'm so sorry for the delayed response. This is a great topic... adding to my list of upcoming tutorials.
I’m a little confused. So the horizontal line that you lowered one half inch? How do you determine how much to lower that line? Is it always a half inch or is there a rule to this? I’d loved your video, I’ve been doing full belly adjustments with a different method and this looks so much easier.
That's a great question. The amount the pattern spread horizontally is determined by how much you have spread the pattern to make the center front straight under the adjustment. ...So, basically when you spread the vertical slash lines to add room, you will need to create a gap when you position the adjusted section back into position. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching
Thanks for this. I'm a newbie with a belly. My question is (apologies if its obvious) how do you know what size waist to cut of doing this adjustment and how much spread I need my pattern finish garment measurement is 37 my body plus ease is.49.1/2"
I think I figured it out. Wish me luck 🙏 and thanks for this all other tutorials
:) so happy yo figured it out! Keep me posted if you have more questions. Thanks for fitting along with me
I think you are explaining the principle. This is not different on the flat, we down 1 inch, add to the side 1,5 inchs, curve the hem of the shirt.
:) Depending on where your fullness in your tummy is, if you just add the extra ease to the side seam, it may just hang out there vs. adding it within the pattern where you may need the fullness... Thanks for fitting along with me
I do have one question. How do I properly measure for increasing the pattern so it fits well over the tummy?
That’s a great question! Measure down from your shoulder to where your tummy starts ...then measure from the shoulder of the pattern down an equal amount to your measurement. This is where you can draw the horizontal guideline. Then measure across the pattern a couple inches down and compare to your tummy measurement. Use these two measurements to decide how much you need to add ... let me know if this helps!
@@JSternDesigns thank you so much for the quick response. I know you are really busy. I was just kinda trying to estimate and make a muslin, but this makes perfect sense. I will let you know how it goes. Again many thanks.
@@JSternDesigns Thanks for the great video, J. Your advice in ^ this ^ reply is so very helpful - Imma try it out on my favourite shirt pattern over the festive break. Cheers!
Will this work on a blouse with a side bust dart? The only thing I don't care for is hemming a curved hemline -- I never get a neat finish either on woven or knits when the hem is curved
Yes, you can use this technique to add room for a prominent tummy in a top with a bust dart. You can also add to the CF and Side Seam edges to straight out the hem if you don't want to hem a curve! Thanks for fitting along with me
Okay, stupid question - say someone loses inches in their tummy, can shirts be taken in using a reversal of this method? 🤔
That is not a stupid question!! Yes, you can slash and overlap vs spread the pieces to remove ease :) Thanks for fitting along with me
Hello Jen, thank you for your video on a prominent tummy. I’m working on adjusting a pattern which has a lot of ease around the tummy. I’ve done an FBA of 1 ½ “ which has resulted in 4” too much fabric draping over my tummy. I made a “muslin” and I temporarily fixed the problem by taking our the excess fabric that was draping over the tummy with a couple of darts. My temporary darts have two inch, each, width at the hem, going straight up from the hem, toward my apex and stopping just above my waist (a total of a four inch adjustment). This worked well but I want to incorporate the change into my paper pattern. Would you bring in the front side seam, or is there a pattern adjustment which is the reverse of the method you used in this video?
You can do this adjustment in reverse to take in the excess fabric... The horizontal line that opens in this slash and spread adjustment will actually overlap when you slash and overlap along the vertical slash lines. I would add the amount that overlapped along the horizontal slash back onto the hem so it doesn't pick up under your bust. Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
Question: if this were the bodice of a dress and you needed to attach a skirt, how do you true the bottom edge so you get a straight waist seam? Many thanks!
That's a great question... Actually, I don't think I would try to straighten the lower edge... The curve at CF for a prominent tummy will be picked up by the curve of your tummy. You do need to increase the width of the top edge of the skirt piece so it agrees in length. Hope this helps, thanks for fitting along with me!
@@JSternDesigns Thank you so much for your prompt reply! That’s really useful to know and I look forward to giving it a try.
Just to say thank you again, this worked very well and the two ladies I was sewing for were delighted to have garments that fit well and had a level waist instead of it being tugged up at the front!
How would I do this adjustment on a top with a empire waist where the top half & bottom half of both the front & back bodices are separate pattern pieces or in a geometric raglan t-shirt where again just like the empire waist top; the front & back bodices have a separate top & bottom piece?
That' makes it so much easier. Spread the bottom half of the pattern. This will create a curved top edge... sew curved edge to the bottom edge of the top half. Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
If I have to do a large adjustment, do I need to make more slashes? I need to do a 4 inch adjustment.
You can spread 2 slashes 1" each for a total of 4" across the front ... Thanks for fitting along with me
I have been looking for something like this for a long time ...I will take my time and listen to everything you said and I will try it ...I am dealing with a 60 inch waist belly measurement...I so want the person to get a proper fitted shirt......will this work for T shirts also? Thank you
So happy you found this (and that it helped!)... You should be able to use this technique on any top. Just be careful to keep the CF straight so you can cut it out on the fold. Keep me posted if you need help with it, thanks for watching, Jen
@@JSternDesigns thanks so much for your reply...I havent started yet want to make sure I understand everything...its for my son right around his tummy is 60ins and it's so true what you said...I usually add on the amount on the sides of any T shirts or shirts he buys or gets as gifts to get the excess to fit him.. and it really goes up in the front... its...roomy for him to be comfortable, but I never like how it hangs....but I sometimes make T shirts or shirts.. from a pattern I made for him...so I will use that pattern to create one with the ease in front...that's wat is confusing me...I am not a professional but I sew for myself and my family...so I was wondering if I have to use that same exact pattern that I use to make his shirts or T shirts and just adjust the front.? Or do I have to make over a new pattern with new measurements
@@JSternDesigns I really will appreciate your advice...because I am so happy I came across your video...so I can finally make his shirts to hang properly....
@@JSternDesigns So I watched and watched your video to make sure I understood...so concerning the firm Belly ...my husband has a firm smaller belly his highest point on his belly is 43 all around measurement and my son had a larger belly that does spill out to the sides...belly is 63 all around measurement. my husband chest is 40 and my son is 60....as I said I am self taught so I am not a professional ...so do I make the pattern using the width of the chest and then add the extra ease for the belly to fit in the new pattern
I saw someone commented about a 60" belly..I have that issue with a client I am making reenactment clothing for. He has over a 60" belly. The largest pattern I have is a 54". My question is once I get the full belly adjustment done, for that large of a belly, the welt pockets and pocket flaps are a mess. Do you have any tips on how to get the pocket placement right again? I'm making him an 18th century waistcoat and frock coat. Thanks
ooooh, I could take a stab at that question, but I have friends who specialize in that... I'm copy pasting your question over to them to see what they say... Stay Tuned!
Here's the reply back I got from my friend about flap placement Hope it helps you!
"Honestly I would probably just pin on a flap onto the muslin and remark it.
They will end up proportionally further to the side seam than "usual" because most people don't want kangaroo pockets"
So sorry but I've forgotten my following question. When I've made the slash and spread across the tummy, sitting as a dome directly under the underbust down to the navel, how would I reduce this excess fabric at the lower part of my torso? I don't want to have a tent around my slim hips. Thanks again 😘
After you spread the pattern vertically, you can take in the side seams to slim the fit at the hem. Also, double check that you don't add more than you need when you slash and spread... sometimes I go over-board and spread too much! Thanks for fitting along with me
@@JSternDesigns thank you so much for answering. Love from Germany.
How do you add the with to the back as well?
The length of the side seam has not changed, so you don't need to adjust the back hem unless you'd like a longer hem. Thanks for fitting along with me
What is the maximum amount that can be added for the tummy? you used 1/2 inch, but I'm guessing there is a practical maximum.
That's a great question... It's a balance between picking the best starting size and adding where you need it. You can figure out how much you need by making a half muslin out of something stable and then slash the fabric and use masking tape to hold the slashed pieces as you work to spread them the right amount to fit your shape, if you feel like you're spreading two vertical slashes too wide, you can add more. Then you can use the slashed up muslin to adjust your paper pattern piece. Hope that helps, thanks for fitting along with me!
That's a great question. If really depends on the size and style of the pattern you're working with. You can make a half muslin out of a stable fabric. Then slash and spread the front as shown in this tutorial. You can use masking tape to hold the slashed pieces in place as you work to spread them the amount you need. If you feel like you're spreading two vertical slash lines too wide, you can add more to spread out the amount you need to add. Then use the muslin sample to adjust your paper pattern. Hope that helps, thanks for fitting along with me
This is a great video, thank you. I don't really understand how the side seam is any different between your method and just adding width. The slash/spread adjustment changes the hemline, but if the end result of both is that the seamline is an X° angle off of the grainline how will that affect the way the shirt hangs differently?
That's a great question! Extra fabric added to the side seam edge might just hang out at the side, creating a tent shape. If you evenly distribute the ease across the front, you're adding where you need it. I discovered this when I was trying on tops in the store... shirts that were too big for me had "wings" along the side seams created by the extra fabric hanging out there. That being said... it also depends on your shape. If you are wide "depth wise" ... adding to the side seams will create more room at the inseam to allow the shirt to hang and fit better front to back. Thanks for fitting along with me.
Is there a maximum that you can extend it to for a very big tummy and how to you guess how much you need.
Also I’ve made blouse with pleat at center front so plenty of room but the front rises up inches, how do I correct this please?
To determine how much you need to add, measure around your fullest tummy. Then Measure the pattern at the full tummy level to see what the difference is. Add a little for ease then divide the total amount in half. This is the amount you will need to add to get your top to fit. Spread the pattern at the hem no more than an inch for each slash line. So add more slash lines if you need to spread two more than 1" each. This will help true up the hem and put the pattern back together more easily. To fix the hem that's picking up at CF... add to the length of the hem at CF and blend back to the original length at the side seam. Hope this help! Thanks for fitting along with me!
@@JSternDesigns
Thank you so much for your reply and help. I’ll give this a try.
If my side seam goes to the back from maybe my mid hip about 3/4" on each side. Could that mean l need a fully tummy adjustment or maybe a full butt adjustment. This is on a t shirt knit pattern.
Thanks
Usually if the side seams are pulling to the back, that means the back needs more ease... so add to the back side seams to see if that will help them hang straight. (Or, you could do this adjustment to the back shirt pattern piece) Thanks for watching
@@JSternDesigns Thanks heaps.
If l add to the back side seams do l need to take it from the front side seams. The front fits pretty well.
Thanks
Can i do the samen for raflan shirts?
Yes, you can use this fit technique on any shirt pattern. ps. so sorry for the delay in responding to you!
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