Heat Treating Hammers in the Shop [Hardening and Tempering a Hammer]
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- Опубліковано 27 кві 2018
- I show you heat treating hammers in the shop. I'm hardening and tempering a hammer made of 1095 steel. If you like to see a blacksmith harden and temper tools, you can check out my other video below too.
If you are interested in the hardening and tempering process, you may also be interested in hardening and tempering a chisel video: • Hardening and Temperin...
Hardening and Tempering a Wrought Iron Hammer: • Hardening and Temperin...
COMMENT: Do you want to know more about hardening and tempering steel? Do you have a preferred method for tempering steel?
Thanks for watching this video on heat treating a hammer. If you get the chance, stop by my other videos! Let me know if you'd like to see more videos from me on heat treating hammers.
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one of the best discussions on heat treating for beginners excellent job!!
Great info on heat treating, very helpful.
most of what you show on your channel I am not ready to do yet but I can go back and watch again as I progress! thanks Roy!
Another great video with excellent instruction on heat treating. Thank you for sharing!!
Nice. I made my first hammer a few days ago. Did the heat, and quenched in oil. And what you said happened it got harder, but not its full hardness. Since it was my first hammer I used a big scrap wood wedge and forged it out and cut off the splitting edge. I looked up the type and it was "high carbon"...? Got a handle on it and it worked well. Way harder than mild steel, but I went to use my chisel and left marks after the blows. I'm gonna try a water quench next. Big thanks Roy!
Glad to have found a skilled smith to watch!
Thank you. I hope you enjoy the channel, there is an endless amount of blacksmithing content!
Awesome video! I'm about to make my first hammer, and this was the last piece of the puzzle. I'm a newbie, and this is my hobby, but I love blacksmithing, and your videos like this one and many others you've published are amazingly helpful.
First that is a great video. The explanation in layman's terms. Is great. Second that is a very good hammer head. I really like it. Thanks again. Keep up the great work. And bless you and yours.
I have a lot of old lump and sledge hammers I would love to reshape into more usable hammers but my skills are probably a few years short of that! For now I will concentrate on getting the perfect tong and hardy tool! Thanks for your video, gives me even more inspiration!
Thanks for the valuable information.
Thanks for the video this is very helpful
Nice low tech method thanks for sharing.
Great video!
Good video and a very nice hammer too.
So you start with a steel block. How do you make the beautiful hole for the handle? Drill and file?
I love the detail on this little hammer. Engraving and initials are cool.
@@caroljohnson8817 Punch and drift. File if you really want to
Thanks for the nice video
Thanks for taking the time to watch
Thank you god bless you totally inspired! Blessings and aloha td
God bless you and thank you :-)
Thanks man
Thanks for the video. On an unrelated note, curious as to the reason for the green tape on some of your tools?
Excellent video! lots of good info for my beginner self. My very first hammer "build" cracked after quenching in water. Its an unknown steel carbon steel, probably should have normalized a few times, and definitely quenched in oil. LOL The odds were against me but it was incredibly educational though!!
Thanks for the info 👍
Nice. Some vintage manky tank content there.
I'm curious about your explanation of 1095 tool steel (1095 is not a tool steel) vs 01 or 5160 steels or 4140. You say that the 1095 is much lower carbon than those others, but tool steel is about the same as 1095 and 5160 is around .60. I'm confused by your explanations.
What if you heat the drift in the forge and after you put it in the vice hold a propane torch down low on the drift to help maintain the heat? I have never tried this before, it's just a thought.
i have an old washing machine pump on my tank so it pushes lots of water across my work!i move it around but with the high flow it cools good
Have 2 drifts and alternative for heat treatment
Like all your vidoes had you keep one drift hot a trade cold for hot one it should speedup.
Thanks
If I’m forging a knife with 1075 steel I can quench in water as long as I anneal and normalize correctly? Do I need to have the water at a certain temperature?
I have a pice of 1045 in the mail i feel a little better know going forward thank you
Hey! Nice Movie! A quick question, the hammer looks like tempered to 220- 240°C (430-465F) right?
Roy did you pre-heat a Second drift ? I was thinking that might be a good idea so the hammer wont loose it's heat while waiting for the first drift to get hot again. Thanks for your education Toby
That copper is sucking the heat out, I use my copper cookware to defrost streaks and chicken and whatnot. Similar concept but in reverse.
Great thanks for this video. Very informative. Two questions: why do yo protect the vise with copper sheet metal? Can this process be done with a torch only? My concern being is it possible to anneal/normalise such a thick piece of steel using a torch.
The copper Sheet metal is for protecting what your Camping so you dont Destroyer the surface finish
ive seen people bake them ? in a oven ?
So I know this is a year old video but what if you want that harden finish on that hammer? Is that not what they call a “case hardened finish?”
have you seen black bear forge test on magnetic / temp done in a over it now look's to me like we all need to look at tempering a lot closer with out the tool's like a rockwell scale tester we all may be shooting in the dark.
cockatoobirdman bill yeah he actually commented on it...
I know this is old, but you mentioned a rosebud and there is a cheaper option that people might be able to invest in. I use a Bernzomatic TS8000 on the end of a 12ft adapter hose attached to a propane bottle. This is easy to keep around the shop especially if you have a spare bottle for a propane forge.
Was this 1045 steel instead of 1095? That would make your carbon discussion at the beginning spot on.
I love the videos although I do believe that some of your points are a little off when it comes carbon content and quenching
this guy is super knowledgeable and im just a newby but i work in steel mill and we were taught most steel looses magnetism around 1420 degrees but doesnt gain magnetism back until it drops to below 500 degrees.
so im confused , basically what im saying is the point where the steel looses magnetism and regain magnetism are too completely different points, so are you quenching the material at the point it regain magnetism because that is only 500 degrees
You were a little off on the carbon contents mentioned for 5160 and the 01 steels, 01 is listed as around 85-1.0% carbon the 5160 is around .60% carbon and the 1095 used in the hammer is listed at 0.90-1.03% so that makes the 1095 the highest carbon content of the steels you mentioned. Great video as usual.
I thought that as well
Agreed.
i hang a ruined knife i did not anneal first above my oil dip bucket just to remind me the hard work that could be wasted if i quench without annealing first..
What are the advantages of a coke forge over an air / fuel forge?
Advantage for Coke Forge dirt all over your shop, make you stink, easy to create too much oxygen so that you can burn your work in half.
Is the tempering strictly for the color?
No it's for taking the hardness out of the steel :-) thank you for the question God bless
The crystalline structure is what makes it hard to begin with, very abrasion resistant, but it's hard as glass well close to it, the temper something totally different than the heat treat relaxes the crystalline structure a bit.
Can I temper a hammer in the oven?
yes
1095 has a much higher carbon content than 5160. Other than that, great video.
You got the initials backwards my initials are JMB lol come on get it right Roy
play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.pfiks.mobile.heattreaters this is a link to the heat treaters guide companion app recommend by John Switzer of Black Bear Forge
The color appears to be just shy of grade 8 hardware.
Roy, such fowl language! Never expect that from you, Malarkey...My virgin ears. Jess you better do something with that boy.
Watch out for the Parkinson's.
only half the story - what happens when the straw color runs out to the hammer face - quench again or go to lunch or ???
You said 1095 is lower carbon than 5160. That’s just wrong and you are spreading misinformation.
1095 has 0.9 - 1.03 carbon. That is considered a high carbon steel.
5160 has 0.6 carbon. This is a medium carbon steel.
Please make a correction in the video info and maybe look up some composition info on the types of steel you use for a video before you make it.
what i have noticed on nearly all of these heat treat tutorials is, yeah lets all get the piece up to temper temperature , oooh yeah look at the straw colour and then thats it !! so what what then ?? just leave it to soak up more heat, sit it outside in the sun ?? quench in oil ?? quench in water ??? come on , for once finish the tut and show the WHOLE process
Your offensive to this very gifted craftsman. Seems like you don't appreciate the time and effort Roy dedicates to sharing his skill with us. Show us what you have to offer
It is common practice to cool it off by quenching, but if you warmed it up slowly enough it would be better to air cool it for a more consistent temper.
Fake news that hammer had no colors
It's sometimes hard to catch the temper colors on camera if you don't have the right lighting conditions... Will try and improve on this in the future