BLACKSMITH | Make better hammers! | Tips and Trick to help with Heat Treating.
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- Опубліковано 6 чер 2021
- Join me in an online teaching experience about blacksmithing and the skills your require to make hammers. Learn some of the my personal techniques that I uses on a day to day bases from the comfort of your home!
Hope you enjoy!
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Good god man! That drop on the face of the anvil... that TING! The sound of success is awesome
That bronze dark straw colour is just about my favourite blacksmithing colour...makes me smile...Awesome video Dan
She is pretty.
great video - thanks. I really hard faced hammer is just plane stupid. You don't need a hammer chipping og breaking while using it.
I think you out to leave the straw color on the hammer after temper when you ship. lol - who does that???? lolol
Nice one Dan. - I finally got round to heat treating the hammer I made from a bit of your fork truck tine the other day.
I saw she was looking good.
Beautiful hammers! Great explanation of the heat treatment and tempering process! God Bless you sir!
Mmmmm tempering. Nice explanation of the process, also interesting to see the different tempering techniques you can use.
looked like a long process to temper, but seeing the consistency in color across the hammer face is all the explanation I need for the expenditure.
Nice followup to your previous video. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week :)
Man, i wish i am able to become as good as a hammermaker as u mate! Awesome work as aways!!
Loved it, nice traditional way of heating and tempering. Well done Dan.
Nicely done and explained!
My main gunsmithing hammer is a tiny ball peen with a polished face.
I picked up another one one size larger and thought it had a really rough service life until I polished it and on the first blow, it had a huge dent in it, not like it was aluminum, but a bigger dent than I could intentionally put in any other ball peen if I tried to.
It needs heat treating in a bad way!
I like my gas forge definitely makes heat treating super easy all of it hot then water
Man I hope you find the inspiration to keep the videos coming. I really enjoy your videos!! Hope you’re forging away, and are doing well. 👊
Thank you for the informative video. As always I do enjoy your videos. Thank you sir!👍
awesome method for tempering, I'm going to have to give that a go when i heat treat the next couple I'm making. cheers 👍
Great video!!! 😎👍🏻
Love the way you walked us through the tempering and hardening process! Thank you so much!
'Really good description and explanation Dan and one that, as you say, gets mostly glossed over so thank you for that - straight to the "saved” file for perpetual reference (I have a lousy memory). You have me intrigued now, it looked in the first episode of this series like you have a new forge - are you now using two forges or is this just a bit of a sequencing thing...?? I’d be interested to hear a bit more about the new one - being in TMIB blue I assume it’s one that you’ve made yourself?
Thank You Dan!
Palu yang sasngat cantik, semoga saya bisa punya satu saja..terimakasih Mr Dan untuk tutorialnya
THANK you.
Pleasure.
The old forge looks like it is taking a bit of strain Dan... :-)
New o e has just gone in 😂
This is interesting stuff and I’m glad I found your channel.
I have some hardened ballpeen hammer heads and I’m making new handles for them. I’m thinking of using a Chicago screw to secure the head to the handle. This means drilling a hole through the head from side to side, right where the handle hole is.
My questions to you are as follows.
Do you think a Chicago screw will hold up and secure the head to the handle under normal use? These heads are 3” long. Not big.
How do I soften the steel to drill the hole and then restore its hardness?
Is the hardness uniform throughout the head or is it softer on the flat end?
I know nothing about this topic and I’m learning as I play.
Thanks for your help.
Paul
Well done, l like doing things the old school way.
Quite nice hammers, thank you for what you do. 👏
Love this mini-series. Looking forward to making another hammer
Really good video! 🙂
Thank you
Beautiful hammers I hope I can get one.
👍
Good work....
Great work dan .. always enjoy your work . Need to go see # 1 ..
Ty
Thank you
Thank you, Dan! Shall try a water quench for my next hammer. First hammer I did is too soft - it is all dented up with every hit and could now transfer the marks to the work. I will try a torch reheat and water quench for the first hammer I made. Hammer on, thank you very much for the definition of what is hard enough.
Depends what steel you use .. some require water quench - some oil.
Depends what steel you use .. some require water quench - some oil.
I suggest a separate annealed hammer for striking punches etc. Keeps your forging hammers clean. Forging hammers don't need to be too hard. Just harder than the soft hot steel or material. If they are softer than the anvil you may never damage the anvil. Hammers are a lot cheaper to replace. That's my thought anyway.
I love the colour of the hammer faces once they've been tempered 😊 I was just wondering what type of hammer the one is that has the cross pien angled upwards (away from the handle)? Thanks for another awesome video 👍
It's a bit of a prototype for myself. It's a big boi cross peen. Thanks for the great comment
@@danielmoss2089 Cool I'll look forward to seeing it in action 😊
I have a bricklayer hammer I need heat treated. How much would you charge to heat treat it?
nice hammer. hope i win
Great job Dan, would the same temperatures and colours be suitable for tempering hammers made from fork lift tines? as I'm to tight to spend money on new stock and tines are so cheap lol
For alloys you can go just a little darker where it will just start to turn bluish. Practice a bit so you can watch the colors change.
@@mossyhollow3732 Thanks Mossy, glad to hear that as that is the colour I usually strive for. Cheers Andy 👍⚒
A problem im currently facing is the steel. I got a new hammer of amazon, german style cross peen. Its a texton i believe was the brand. But man, it has a soft face. I normalized it, hardened and still quite soft. I barely miss hit on the edge of my anvil making a small taper on an s hook chain im working on for a tripod and it just out an ugly gash in it. Im gonna retry, and maybe just use it as a soft face guy. It aggravated me cause the hammer ive been using for the past three years was a job smart from tractor supply. And ive beaten the tar out of it and it still looks good. I worrk if i hit my chisel od handled hot cut the new one will just fold. Any tips? Or should i just put it up for as needed and get a better one? Great vids man!
Do you know how to do a spark test for carbon content ? If not, look it up. High quality hammers are made from plain high carbon steel. Compare the sparks from your hammers to each other and to the sparks from a file. There's a lot of junk hammers out there being made from inferior steel like this guy is doing.
I love that hammer, sadly I won't be able to win it :/
Maybe in the next episode?
@@danielmoss2089 i Love the curvy hammer style, i don't know if next hammer is that style but i hope I can participate next episode! All your hammers are so beautiful
Leg vise part 4?
140 degree Celsius for a dark-ish straw? You meant 240 degree Celsius?
Sorry I did and I did.
@@danielmoss2089 I've said worse things by mistake 😁
Wow first. Dan sucks😜 p.s. when you're going and you got the whole thing up to temperature and then your alternating face-to-face are you purposely putting it into the oxidizing layer to heat it up faster? Or are you still in the neutral area
I have no Idea Ben, Honestly didn't think there was such thing as a neutral area or oxidizing area to a solid fuel forge. Are your talking about the reduction zone? sorry Ben honestly not a clue.
@@danielmoss2089 I've heard it called tipping.?. If you bury metal too far it gets too much oxygen before the fire can burn it up or something. I don't know the only time I've used a coal Forge was with you down at quad state
@@bentoombs That is correct the air is quite low on this fire and means i would need to dig it right down. I could couple of inches. The reason for tuning it was to make sure both sides got an equal heat.
This is good info, guys. I have been using a gas forge, but have a coal forge recently acquired. Fire depth placement and oxidation.. shall be mindful.
Your anvil face is a hammer, and believe me, it's not made of medium carbon steel. Steels of the same hardness don't necessarily share other properties. Your hammers are lacking.
Your wrong