Hardening and Tempering Junkyard Steels
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- Опубліковано 23 сер 2017
- This is the third part of the three part video on forging a punch and drift for making a hammer eye. Hardening and tempering are disused with recommendations for testing unknown steels for proper quenching medium.
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Broken record here, but SUPER HELPFUL. I know I keep saying the same things, and I try not to comment so much, because it is the same each time, but you are really a fantastic teacher. I have learned a TON and truly appreciate all you are doing. I'll go a step further and let you know that the things I learn from you are in turn being passed down to my boys. So not only are you having a direct impact on my skill set, but also trickling down to my friends and family. THANK YOU!
I'm addicted to Black Bear Forge! Nothing like learning from the Old Masters.......those who have been there, made that mistake, ruin that project by using the wrong steel and learned from "that old guy in the next county". Thank you for sharing your skills in such informative details,
John, this is one of the best series on forging basic blacksmithing tools ever! Please keep thinking like you do, you are a natural teacher. I wish I had had access to this kind of teaching when I first learned blacksmithing. I'm disabled now, and can't work a forge, but I can still learn from you. Keep up the great work you are doing.
Thanks
Stephen Lockwood I’ll have
This is probably the best tempering video I have seen on UA-cam that shows what you're looking for while you're doing it
Thank You! This was absolutely perfect instructions for me. Direct, clear, concise with visual sequential hands on description. I Thank You, Tom.
I went to trade school for welding and they let us loose to self teach. I would share what I learned to do and more importantly what not to do with the new students in the hope that we could share our acquired knowledge with each other.
Thank you very much.
This is a great video, and I was able to get it as a beginner which says a lot for the presentation. Thankyou.
Glad it was helpful!
I learn something everytime i watch your videos
John
You're the best! Your instruction approach is thorough and easy to follow!
Thank you so much
Been watching your stuff for about a year now. Been making tongs, (which I am still struggling to get decent), and tools for tending the coal, as well as hardy tools, and finally going to harden some chisels, punches, and drifts today. After watching this video I think it finally clicked as to what I am supposed to do. Fingers 🤞. 😅 Thank you for your videos! I always get inspired after watching them! ... but trying to reproduce what I watched never seems to go near as smooth... or even succeed (like forge welding a single link of chain so far.) But, I am determined to succeed on it eventually. Thanks again!
I've been a subscriber for years. Now I am a student since I finally got my small anvil and forge set-up (forge pending completion of refractory cement which I ran out of on the first try). Looking forward to watching all of the videos you have posted and hopefully making good use of the scrap steel I've been collecting.
Thanks for sharing all your knowledge!! It's like taking a masterclass!
Dear John, thanks for presenting this informative series.
All the way from South Africa, John your videos are an inspration and I have learned a lot from your instruction. Keep it coming.
Thank you very much for your experience and wealth of knowledge ! you have helped me as a jeweler of 38yrs . I have learnt a lot of important things ! You don't find in books or practical !
Thanks for this. I have watched it before, but want to do some dies and a punch tomorrow, so thought I better brush up. Great info, thanks for watering my tree of knowledge.
What a great 3 part series John! You are a great teacher keep up the great work!
Love this series. I picked up some excavator pins, I was thinking of oil quenching.
Thank you.
Thank you so much John you are a great teacher. Adeel Karlie cape Town south Africa
Firstly, I would like to sincerely thank you John for all the great information you share with us. I've learned a lot from you and I love your style of videos and the amount of detail and effort you put into them. Your channel is my number one resource on the topic of blacksmithing. You are an amazing person and a great teacher. I envy your friends and those people around you who get to enjoy your company and interact with you in person.
We have a saying in Arabic "من علمني حرفا صرت له عبدا" which could be roughly translated to "whosoever teaches me a letter I would forever be in his debt". I believe I owe you a lot. So again, from the bottom of my heart, thank you.
Secondly, you mentioned you would prefer to use olive oil. Why? and would it go bad after some time?
Thirdly, I think I heard you say in another older video, if I'm not mistaken, that you wanted to use charcoal instead of coal. Why and what happened there? I see your still using coal.
Have a great day and stay safe.
Thank you for the comment. Olive oil does smell as bad when quenching and in theory the smoke is probably less harmful than petroleum based quenching oils. No one I know that uses it has complained about it going bad. As for the charcoal, its just a matter of not having the time to make it.
Loving your channel! Your videos are great, thanks
Excellent series. A must see for a new beginner. Especially someone with a small budget. Thank You.
A Great demonstration and explanation.
John, thanks so much for this wonderful series on the punches and drifts! I need to make a few of each so, I was very interested in them!
Your channel is probably the BEST for us relative newbies and for intermediate Blacksmiths, as well!
Thanks again! Your videos are one of the ones I post to my FB page more often than any others when posting things regarding Blacksmithing!\I am somewhat disabled by a disease that eats the cartilage from ALL the joints and them erodes the ends of the bones so, I can't do a lot but, I keep trying. Before I became disabled I was probably approaching intermediate as far as where I was. Now, I have to do relatively small projects or take an extended time to make any of the more complex and longer hammering projects but, I eventually get there!
Again, thanks for these, especially but also for all the other videos you have on your channel!
KUDOS!
Great videos John. Thanks so much.
Great info on testing the way to harden
Really appreciate your work and teaching. Thank you!
Brilliant
Thanks for another great series of videos. Very informative and fun to watch. You are a great teacher!
Thank you. Learned a lot
thanks again for sharing your knowledge john ;)
Good job.
thanks.
Great video
Good to know sucker rod is good for tool making, thanks again
Nice videos, vary informative. And thank you for mentioning the House Handle website.
Well ,all can I say , thank you for all you knowledge shared with this new generation really need a truly and sincerely good teaching and tips and advises , I'm from Brazil and here its very hard to find anything about forging , and when we found its really high prices , and chilli forge will cost me almost 3 000 r$ when a base pay for a worker its 1000 r$ for a month working 6 days a week all day and glp also is cost alot , thats funny because Brazil is the one of biggest iron produtor in world and for we buy it here it simple too expensive for a regular guy , so evey tip is much more important for me .
Again thanks for your lessons its the only way i can find to learn something for the right way ⚒️👏
Great video John,loving all the contemt you are putting out and the info you share with us all,would love to see a video all about axe and tomohawk drifts amd how to forge one. Thank You
This mic working good thank you buddy
Good teaching!😇🖒
Hey John, really appreciate the videos. I currently don't have any plans of becoming a blacksmith, but who knows what the future holds. Gaining additional knowledge keeps the gray matter in good shape. Looking forward to the rest of the beginning blacksmithing videos.
i was so pleased to find these videos. I recently purchased a striking plate at auction specifically to attempted to make my own hammers. i guess when i get everything set up i'll be making my own drift and punch first. Thanks again
I hope they help
It was very useful to understand tip harding and shank (or center harding). I think I get the drift of the example. I need more on heat treating. What about cataloging your videos, into a Text Book. You could call it “Black Bear Beginners Book”, “BBBB Blacksmith Guide”,or something like that. It would be so much more interesting than old movies. And I would learn something I can use. And a can tell my friend that I have finally graduated from wood working.
Thanks for this video! I need to make some hammers. Somehow I can't get the harding process for the tools under control. Hope I will after this video. Fingers crossed!
Hardening and tempering are always a bit rough for blacksmiths. Thats one reason it pays to stick with a few steels you can really learn to work with.
I think that the file scraping test is not always to relay.If the steel is heated to much its surface might decarburize and stay soft after quenching, while its hard inside.
I worken in the Texas oil fields for years. Just for your information, sucker rods are usually 30 to 32 feet long
Thanks, I have never seen one with both ends still connected, they always show up around here much shorter.
Re.: Sucker Rod Steels... take a look at this paper (pdf-file), ref
www.weatherford.com/en/documents/brochure/products-and-services/production-optimization/sucker-rods
I know it's an older video. But why would you rather use olive oil to harden your steel? verses an oil made for steel hardning. Just curious I don't think I've ever heard anyone say that. Most of the time, I hear I just haven't bought proper heat treating oil, and olive oil, canola oil is all I have. Just curious. Thanks for making your videos I have learned a ton from you.
Very nice video John! Also very informational. I am glad that youre taking on these instructional videos because youre very good at explaining things in a simpler way than most other videos i come across on youtube. The very technical information isnt bad to know, although in some cases its easier to get started with the basics, this video nailed is. Thanks again John and i cant wait to see the next video!!! Keep up the great work!
Thank you
John another great installment. Easy to follow instructions. What camera set up are you using, it certainly seems to work well. Look forward to the future content.
thank you. I am using a Sony Handycam FDR-AX33. It seems to work pretty well. I am working on better microphone options to improve the voice recording.
Also thank you for the donation.
I forgot to mention that this camera also was a wireless connection to allow my smart phone to control the record and zoom functions
Just got a fly press no6 how good are they ' I want to for forging tools for stone masonry do you now watt steel is best for hard lime stone in from wales uk. 👍
I know that in the UK steels are identified differently than they are here in the US. So I am not sure what you would call it there. But starting with a good shock resisting steel seems good. Contacting other blacksmiths in your area is also a good idea.
I just finished both the punch & the drift turned out good was unknown steel ended up being water quench
Thanks for what you do
I'm just trying to start blacksmithing and have learned so much from your videos, thank you. Could you suggest sources for forging steel? The knife making suppliers I have used don't have square rod. thanks again
Have you looked online. Blacksmiths Depot, Omni steel, home depot. Good luck
@@JamesWhite-tg4kw thanks
Never liked scrap. I do have quite a bit of coil spring steel from a hydraulic cylinder reman facility. I prefer drops from machine shop. It is inexpensive AND cut to length for you !!!! LOL
Of course it's new and they tell you what it is. Not true to blacksmithing though is it,,, as it seems to be sacrilegious to use new steel. Never understood that.
Thanks John!!
Personally I prefer new steel of a known variety. But I know that there are lots of my viewer that like using scrap. So it's worth addressing. I think the busier you are in blacksmithing the more you embrace a known steel, it helps guarantee success and prevents wasted time on tools that don't hold up. Of course for some things the scrap is near ideal due to its shape. Still I have trouble passing up a good piece of junk
What colour is for hardening
Is Your Oil bucket inside a Shop rag bin?
Have you ever featured it in a video?
💚🌵☘
Yes it is and I know I have discussed it in a few videos. The self closing lid extinguishes any flare ups.
What’s sucker rod steel come from ?
I know you said you kinky harden and temper the drift out of habit since it’s going to get hot while in use but would the same go for the punch? Or is that different since I’ll strike the punch and dip in water after each hammer blow to cool it off?
Punches shouldn't get that hot and need to be harder because of the abuse they need to hole their shape. Even if things get way hotter than they were tempered it is still usually lower than what it takes to full anneal them.
John I recently bought a hammer eye drift and it’s huge it’s made of ductile iron can I forge it smaller or should I just spend the day filing it or grinding it thx.....Paul
I don't think you can forge ductile iron since it is a cast product.
That’s what I was thinking. Thx bud.....Paul.
Maybe I’ll just forge a new one I just got a nice big hunk of D2 and 4140.
Q1: haven’t blacksmiths been quenching in just lukewarm water for thousands of years? Why is it so serious to quench in preheated oil now?
Q2: Does it matter what you quench it in at all if you’re tempering the alloy anyways? Why not just do the water and plan on tempering instead of the back and forth with several mediums?
Sorry still learning and experimenting haha
For thousands of years there was iron or steel and the steel was simple but a bit unpredictable. Now we have thousands of steel types each with its own specific heat treating requirements. Some harden in air, some in oil and others in water. Quenching an oil hardening in steel in water may cause fractures that result in immediate failure, such as a crack during quenching. Or it may result in micro fractures that don't show up until later, in either case tempering won't repair the damage.
@@BlackBearForge I understand. Thank you for clearing that up for me.
Why buy fresh olive oil to use as a quenching medium. In my mind it is a waste of good nutrition. Start saving used vegetable oil from the kitchen.
The lowest cost for olive oil is actually buying what they sell for making soap, which isn't considered safe for consumption. I also don't have left over oil from cooking, since I don't fry things. I may use 8 ounces of oil per month in the kitchen for sauteing or in salad dressing. so there isn't anything to save.
I was confused because in my country we have different names for olive oil sediment or olive kernel oil.
You don't look like much of a ladies man but you sure do know your steels buddy