The parlor sized Yamaha acoustic guitar CSF3M is great, check it out! 00:00 Introduction 04:35 Fix nut height 09:01 16 days later 12:21 Sound demonstration
From Canada here, just recently got the natural version of it, absolutely stunning guitar. The overall build quality and hand feel compared to the taylor GS mini (which is claimed as the best selling acoustic in the world) is quite a bit better. I got it for 750 pretax and let's say for if someone takes way the logo and info paper in the soundhole I'd not be surprised if it's sold over a grand pre tax easily.
To get around the nut problem you could tune the entire guitar a semitone lower and place a capo on the first fret. Great playing btw. And the guitar sounds very nice
Thanks for the video! Did you have to adjust the bridge or saddle? Also, with an electric, to adjust intonation, you generally have an adjustment per string at the bridge end (e.g., tune-o-matic). With an acoustic, how can you modify/fix the intonation?
I did not have to adjust the saddle, i don't think I have had to do that on any of my Yamaha acoustics come to think of it. You don't have the same intonation options on acoustic as electric, but the saddle is shaped to intonate for a string set with wound G string. Generally I find that on a good acoustic guitar, intonation is not a problem.
@@MortenFThanks for your reply. I always wondered about acoustic intonation. Does it mean that you should use the same string gauge (e.g., 10-46) as delivered from factory to preserve the intonation the saddle is made for?
To make the nut lower, I just take off the nut and sandpaper the whole bottom of it with a very fine-grained sandpaper. Much easier cheaper faster and more accurate (IMHO), without the need to buy those files. A tiny drop of superglue or just string-tension then keeps it in place. What string gauge did you put on? I'm fascinated by the tight yet rich broad sound of the YAMAHA CSF3M - it does sound much better in-real-life (IRL) or with that proper mic. Im' not really a fan of the piezo and often prefer to remove it from under the bridge.
Problem with that approach is that usually not all strings require the same amount of sanding, so to get it perfect you have to file each individual string slot. I use D'addario phosphor bronze 12s.
@@MortenFyou're probably right about the accuracy for perfection. However, for the precision I need for my hobby-playing this seems quite adequate. Is that D'addario 12-53 or 12-56 XT (which have become my favourites)? I thought the shorter scale on the CSF3M might need a bit heavier stings, but wasn't sure as the top seems very resonant with factory strings (12-53?). The YAMAHA CSF3M is definitely on my shortlist, but I can't deicide which of my (long scaled) old guitars to replace it with, as they all have their own sound and personality. Do you have an informed opinion about whether removing the piezo improves the acoustic sound? I have also sawed the stringholes, so that the string end ring sits firmly against the bridge plate - it did improve the sustain to spectacular, on one of my guitars which has a thicker/heavier solid (spruce) top. Thanks for the demo and reply to my question 👍
@@bzznz It's 12-53, doesn't need more than that imo.I wouldn't imagine removing this piezo would do anything to the acoustic sound, but I haven't tried, so who knows.
very impressive intonation after your setup!
Great playing. This guitar sounds great in your hands
I played one of these a few days ago at my local music shop, and now I want one! Such a beautiful guitar and sounds so sweet.
It sounds really good!
great review !!! lovely player too ! classy
From Canada here, just recently got the natural version of it, absolutely stunning guitar. The overall build quality and hand feel compared to the taylor GS mini (which is claimed as the best selling acoustic in the world) is quite a bit better. I got it for 750 pretax and let's say for if someone takes way the logo and info paper in the soundhole I'd not be surprised if it's sold over a grand pre tax easily.
very nice sound
To get around the nut problem you could tune the entire guitar a semitone lower and place a capo on the first fret. Great playing btw. And the guitar sounds very nice
Thanks for the info. In 8.50 there was a lot of fretbuzz after you filed - what caused that ?
Probably just from smacking the strings a little too hard. I don't think it was that much, but I'm not very sensitive about fret buzz.
Thanks for the video! Did you have to adjust the bridge or saddle? Also, with an electric, to adjust intonation, you generally have an adjustment per string at the bridge end (e.g., tune-o-matic). With an acoustic, how can you modify/fix the intonation?
I did not have to adjust the saddle, i don't think I have had to do that on any of my Yamaha acoustics come to think of it. You don't have the same intonation options on acoustic as electric, but the saddle is shaped to intonate for a string set with wound G string. Generally I find that on a good acoustic guitar, intonation is not a problem.
@@MortenFThanks for your reply. I always wondered about acoustic intonation. Does it mean that you should use the same string gauge (e.g., 10-46) as delivered from factory to preserve the intonation the saddle is made for?
@@ronlevenberg2985 10-46 on acoustic? Nah, 12's or 13's is pretty standard, I use 12's on most of my acoustics.
@@MortenFYes, I see that the CSF3M comes with Elixir NANOWEB 80/20 Bronze Light, .012-.053 strings.
Thanks I want to buy arm rest for an ordinary concert size guitar can you recommend one? thanks
To make the nut lower, I just take off the nut and sandpaper the whole bottom of it with a very fine-grained sandpaper. Much easier cheaper faster and more accurate (IMHO), without the need to buy those files. A tiny drop of superglue or just string-tension then keeps it in place.
What string gauge did you put on?
I'm fascinated by the tight yet rich broad sound of the YAMAHA CSF3M - it does sound much better in-real-life (IRL) or with that proper mic. Im' not really a fan of the piezo and often prefer to remove it from under the bridge.
Problem with that approach is that usually not all strings require the same amount of sanding, so to get it perfect you have to file each individual string slot. I use D'addario phosphor bronze 12s.
@@MortenFyou're probably right about the accuracy for perfection. However, for the precision I need for my hobby-playing this seems quite adequate.
Is that D'addario 12-53 or 12-56 XT (which have become my favourites)? I thought the shorter scale on the CSF3M might need a bit heavier stings, but wasn't sure as the top seems very resonant with factory strings (12-53?). The YAMAHA CSF3M is definitely on my shortlist, but I can't deicide which of my (long scaled) old guitars to replace it with, as they all have their own sound and personality.
Do you have an informed opinion about whether removing the piezo improves the acoustic sound? I have also sawed the stringholes, so that the string end ring sits firmly against the bridge plate - it did improve the sustain to spectacular, on one of my guitars which has a thicker/heavier solid (spruce) top.
Thanks for the demo and reply to my question 👍
@@bzznz It's 12-53, doesn't need more than that imo.I wouldn't imagine removing this piezo would do anything to the acoustic sound, but I haven't tried, so who knows.
what files are you using?
It's a set of Ibenez files
Can you plug into a acoustic amp?
Absolutely, it has a very good passive piezo in it.
Hello!
Are you in standard tuning at the end of the video? Sounded very beautiful. 👌
Went to a party with my dreadnaught, and left it with a 70 year old Gibson parlor guitar on loan from a friend. Needless to say…here I am