😂 I was so ready to put you on blast for the tape drag before you fixed it. Great video and compelling argument on why to not use the existing fuse hole. I’ll try it.
Thanks for watching all the way through, LOL! In a lot of my instructional videos, I start them doing one thing, and then when I get towards the end, I've already identified a better way...LOL. "Continuous Improvement!"
So this weekend I used strain relief on my tubes for the first time with consumer shells, (i built new racks so added them in) but i have always matched from the bottom like you do. Even though I tied them, off when I was clearing the shoot site, it looked to me that none of my shells fired. But what I found is what did fire still had the ematch sitting in the bottom of the tube with the tape i added only on the bottom sitting in there like it was a lift charge cup. Not 1 of the 30 MJGs that did fire, left the tube from the force of the can exiting. I have used this method for years without strain relief but using it this year made it notable that it's not necessary when using this method. It really is a time saver doing it this way. Not only saving time with poking, but also strain reliving the wire. Doesn't mean the other way is wrong. I'm just providing my experience with both methods.
@EngineerCatPyro, I'm not quite visualizing what you did and didn't do. What were you doing prior relative to ematching the canister? And then what did you do (in detail) afterwards? (Work with me here. I'm a bit brain-fried after an exhausting "July 4th" week. 😄)
I think he sayin he only tapes the e match to the bottom of the canister and therefore the wire stays in the tube …. I have been using fast wick and attach to that but do typically tape it to canister and have seen issues if do not tie off, this guy may be on to something if could post picture certainly would help to clarify
@1:01 launch any canister shell during the day. you'll see they spin like a top. ematch being pulled out won't make things any worse. to prevent the wire from being yanked out of your firing system, just wrap around a staple or nail at the top of your rack or tube.
I certainly agree with the spinning part. However, if the match is put in to the existing fuse hole, it will definitely create quite a bit more resistance/drag as opposed to simply falling out the bottom. And yes, having tie-off points on your rack is absolutely a great way to protect your equipment from having a match yanked! 👍🏻
it's still gonna have the resistance pull spinning ... since you tape it to the side of the canister. the resistance of the wire pulling or ripping thru the tape
@@evolution2001 One quick question. How far ahead of your show do you match your shells? I have concerns about static electricity discharge if I store them like this. Do you have a take on this? I'm thinking day before or day of show?
@@bigcrazyal5560 As long as the ematch is shunted, meaning the leads are twisted together, discharge from static across the leads is not possible. As long as you aren't transporting your shells away from your property, I'd have no significant concerns ematching them a few days or more before a show. Some shells I have matched, and didn't end up using, so those few were still ready to roll next year. That being said, long term storage is NOT in my home or attached garage. They are stored in a detached building. But I will have matched product in my house for a couple days before my show. As I said in the video, everything we do comes with the consideration of "Risk Mitigation" and what is reasonable for you.
@@evolution2001 Thanks for the quick reply. Is your reasoning on not transporting them so that the shunt doesn't become unconnected and a chance for static discahrge? I have a lot of shells for my show (over 300) but we are shooting them at my in-laws house so I will need to transport my stuff over there. Maybe just plan on doing the e-matching after transport maybe day before?
@@bigcrazyal5560the transportation part was somewhat of an error on my part. If I am correctly recalling the general laws regarding 1.4 consumer fireworks transport… 1) as long as it is less than 1000lbs per VIN 2) you are not “in commerce” (you’re not in this scenario) …you can transport them. Ematched or not doesn’t matter. Your State or the cities that you pass through may have ordinances, but as long as the two criteria above are met, I wouldn’t be overly concerned about transport.
I completely agree. There's really no reason to not leave the shroud on. It's not like it's going to stop it from lighting. I get nervous every time I watch these guys
Just curious on why you wouldn't quit the cancer completely upside down. Is kokomo directly in the bottom to insert.. slight taping bottom canaster and not the side.. since bittoms are usually left in tube anyways. no resistance on the actual canister going up
Hey what's going on man not saying you're wrong or not saying my technique is right everybody has their own way to do something as long as it's safe that's all that counts. Just putting it out there. I do it slightly different. I have a 1/8 inch hole drilled in the bottom of my HDPE tube. I insert my E-match in their, tape the outside so it doesn't move. Then I open the bottom of my canister lift charge cup l. With the shell still held upside down I take my tube with the E-match attached to it flip it over and insert the shell into the tube. Then flip the tube back upright and all of the Lift charge is sitting right on top of the E- match. it's been pretty precise for about 15 years now
@nolayro2474, I find your method very interesting and I may tinker with the idea! 👍🏻👍🏻 What's the difference if you were to just dump the BP from the lift cup into the bottom of the mortar, and then just drop the can in on top of it? Wouldn't you be accomplishing the same thing? And do you leave the OEM fuse in place?
@@evolution2001 there's no difference at all. I only do that because there's been a couple occasions where I accidentally spilled a little bit. But if you can carefully dump it in there there's no issue at all with doing it that way
This is unsafe. Not a good way to do this. Don't take advise from Cody B. You compromise the mortar tubes the second you drill that hole in the bottom.
Some people will say leaving an ematch exposed can lead to "friction matching" which is a potential occurrence where friction between black power & the pyrogen can ignite it. The shroud prevents that happening. Leaving the shroud on should be just fine.
This is why I hand light my fireworks where I'm not messing with the lift powder and I don't have worry about my show firing all at same time lol but that just me ill take my risk hand lighting lol
Bro, you don't need to do all that. Drill a hole big enough for E match to fit through the bottom of the motor. This hole should be right above plug inside the tube. Then open the bottom of the "60 gram shell and dump all the lift charge into the motor and then drop your shell right on top. Now the cord and shell are completely free for lift off. (Just like a cake works)
The proper method to ematch a canister shell is to NOT ematch a canister shell. This is a surefire way to ruin your show or your e-control firing box because as we all know, if something can go wrong, it will, especially when you connect something to a moving shell.
@Warrior Dugan, I don't think your position holds up very well. Ematching a consumer (1.4g) canister is really no different than ematching a display (1.3g) shell. In the consumer canister, you have an ematch directly in the lift charge. In the display shell, you have black match in the lift charge, connected to the ematch. The concern of the ematch yanking on your firing module is the same in both situations. So, you treat them the same: Tie off or secure the ematch to the rack (or the mortar) so it doesn't yank your equipment. All my 60g consumer canisters are tied off to the rack. I had over (100) 1.75" shells in my show this year. I had 100% successful firing and zero tugging on my modules. As my Pyro Workshop playlist is all about knowledge, perhaps it'd be worthwhile for me to create a quick video on some ways to secure ematch so it doesn't yank on the modules. Thanks for the inadvertent suggestion! 😄👌🏻
@sommeone4582 Yep. Pull the green. Insert white. Done. White fused the final 70 shells of my 130 shot fan finale rack for perfect monster zipper effect. Ripped the entire sky to shreds, left to right, in those final 5 seconds!!!
😂 I was so ready to put you on blast for the tape drag before you fixed it. Great video and compelling argument on why to not use the existing fuse hole. I’ll try it.
Thanks for watching all the way through, LOL! In a lot of my instructional videos, I start them doing one thing, and then when I get towards the end, I've already identified a better way...LOL. "Continuous Improvement!"
So this weekend I used strain relief on my tubes for the first time with consumer shells, (i built new racks so added them in) but i have always matched from the bottom like you do. Even though I tied them, off when I was clearing the shoot site, it looked to me that none of my shells fired. But what I found is what did fire still had the ematch sitting in the bottom of the tube with the tape i added only on the bottom sitting in there like it was a lift charge cup. Not 1 of the 30 MJGs that did fire, left the tube from the force of the can exiting. I have used this method for years without strain relief but using it this year made it notable that it's not necessary when using this method. It really is a time saver doing it this way. Not only saving time with poking, but also strain reliving the wire. Doesn't mean the other way is wrong. I'm just providing my experience with both methods.
@EngineerCatPyro, I'm not quite visualizing what you did and didn't do. What were you doing prior relative to ematching the canister? And then what did you do (in detail) afterwards?
(Work with me here. I'm a bit brain-fried after an exhausting "July 4th" week. 😄)
I think he sayin he only tapes the e match to the bottom of the canister and therefore the wire stays in the tube …. I have been using fast wick and attach to that but do typically tape it to canister and have seen issues if do not tie off, this guy may be on to something if could post picture certainly would help to clarify
@1:01 launch any canister shell during the day. you'll see they spin like a top. ematch being pulled out won't make things any worse. to prevent the wire from being yanked out of your firing system, just wrap around a staple or nail at the top of your rack or tube.
I certainly agree with the spinning part. However, if the match is put in to the existing fuse hole, it will definitely create quite a bit more resistance/drag as opposed to simply falling out the bottom.
And yes, having tie-off points on your rack is absolutely a great way to protect your equipment from having a match yanked! 👍🏻
it's still gonna have the resistance pull spinning ... since you tape it to the side of the canister. the resistance of the wire pulling or ripping thru the tape
Very well done. Extremely informative and well produced. Thank you for a great instructional video. Liked and subscribed!
Awesome, thank you!
@@evolution2001 One quick question. How far ahead of your show do you match your shells? I have concerns about static electricity discharge if I store them like this. Do you have a take on this? I'm thinking day before or day of show?
@@bigcrazyal5560 As long as the ematch is shunted, meaning the leads are twisted together, discharge from static across the leads is not possible.
As long as you aren't transporting your shells away from your property, I'd have no significant concerns ematching them a few days or more before a show. Some shells I have matched, and didn't end up using, so those few were still ready to roll next year. That being said, long term storage is NOT in my home or attached garage. They are stored in a detached building. But I will have matched product in my house for a couple days before my show. As I said in the video, everything we do comes with the consideration of "Risk Mitigation" and what is reasonable for you.
@@evolution2001 Thanks for the quick reply. Is your reasoning on not transporting them so that the shunt doesn't become unconnected and a chance for static discahrge? I have a lot of shells for my show (over 300) but we are shooting them at my in-laws house so I will need to transport my stuff over there. Maybe just plan on doing the e-matching after transport maybe day before?
@@bigcrazyal5560the transportation part was somewhat of an error on my part. If I am correctly recalling the general laws regarding 1.4 consumer fireworks transport…
1) as long as it is less than 1000lbs per VIN
2) you are not “in commerce” (you’re not in this scenario)
…you can transport them. Ematched or not doesn’t matter.
Your State or the cities that you pass through may have ordinances, but as long as the two criteria above are met, I wouldn’t be overly concerned about transport.
Great channel just subbed
I do 100s of these each year. I would always leave the shroud on - period.
I completely agree. There's really no reason to not leave the shroud on. It's not like it's going to stop it from lighting. I get nervous every time I watch these guys
Just curious on why you wouldn't quit the cancer completely upside down. Is kokomo directly in the bottom to insert.. slight taping bottom canaster and not the side.. since bittoms are usually left in tube anyways. no resistance on the actual canister going up
Because the upside down blue sky camel didn't car to the horse fuse.
Omg the auto correct 🤦♂️
@@user-pc8tb7hg1lHandlesRDumb my reply was intentional gibberish. 😄
It was a perfect answer to the question. 😂 @evolution2001
Hey what's going on man not saying you're wrong or not saying my technique is right everybody has their own way to do something as long as it's safe that's all that counts. Just putting it out there.
I do it slightly different. I have a 1/8 inch hole drilled in the bottom of my HDPE tube. I insert my E-match in their, tape the outside so it doesn't move. Then I open the bottom of my canister lift charge cup l. With the shell still held upside down I take my tube with the E-match attached to it flip it over and insert the shell into the tube. Then flip the tube back upright and all of the Lift charge is sitting right on top of the E- match. it's been pretty precise for about 15 years now
@nolayro2474, I find your method very interesting and I may tinker with the idea! 👍🏻👍🏻 What's the difference if you were to just dump the BP from the lift cup into the bottom of the mortar, and then just drop the can in on top of it? Wouldn't you be accomplishing the same thing? And do you leave the OEM fuse in place?
@@evolution2001 there's no difference at all. I only do that because there's been a couple occasions where I accidentally spilled a little bit. But if you can carefully dump it in there there's no issue at all with doing it that way
@@nolapyro2474 Cool! I'm gonna try this and maybe even make a video about it if it works well. 👍🏻👍🏻
I look forward to the shout out in your video LOL but I have no doubt in my mind that it will work for you as well
This is unsafe. Not a good way to do this. Don't take advise from Cody B. You compromise the mortar tubes the second you drill that hole in the bottom.
You showed an image of the shroud left covering the e-match inside the shell. Why is that? Can I leave the shroud on and still be ok?
Some people will say leaving an ematch exposed can lead to "friction matching" which is a potential occurrence where friction between black power & the pyrogen can ignite it. The shroud prevents that happening. Leaving the shroud on should be just fine.
Leave the shroud on !!
This is why I hand light my fireworks where I'm not messing with the lift powder and I don't have worry about my show firing all at same time lol but that just me ill take my risk hand lighting lol
If there’s a concern of all of your show firing at once, then you are using some very janky-ass firing system! 😄
Bro, you don't need to do all that. Drill a hole big enough for E match to fit through the bottom of the motor. This hole should be right above plug inside the tube. Then open the bottom of the "60 gram shell and dump all the lift charge into the motor and then drop your shell right on top. Now the cord and shell are completely free for lift off.
(Just like a cake works)
Yeah, I think CodyB did a video along those lines. I can see both pros & cons of doing it the way you describe.
Can I shoot a 5 or 6 inch in a Excalibur tube yes or no
yes
The proper method to ematch a canister shell is to NOT ematch a canister shell. This is a surefire way to ruin your show or your e-control firing box because as we all know, if something can go wrong, it will, especially when you connect something to a moving shell.
@Warrior Dugan, I don't think your position holds up very well. Ematching a consumer (1.4g) canister is really no different than ematching a display (1.3g) shell.
In the consumer canister, you have an ematch directly in the lift charge.
In the display shell, you have black match in the lift charge, connected to the ematch.
The concern of the ematch yanking on your firing module is the same in both situations. So, you treat them the same: Tie off or secure the ematch to the rack (or the mortar) so it doesn't yank your equipment. All my 60g consumer canisters are tied off to the rack. I had over (100) 1.75" shells in my show this year. I had 100% successful firing and zero tugging on my modules.
As my Pyro Workshop playlist is all about knowledge, perhaps it'd be worthwhile for me to create a quick video on some ways to secure ematch so it doesn't yank on the modules. Thanks for the inadvertent suggestion! 😄👌🏻
@@evolution2001 Thanks for the inadvertent reply!
I typically cut the fuse short, just above the shell, then ematch to the fuse…couple seconds delay but far less risk.
@@porter5264 yep if measure it and keep conistent you can set a fixed delay…. Or replace it with fast wick segment works good too.
@sommeone4582 Yep. Pull the green. Insert white. Done. White fused the final 70 shells of my 130 shot fan finale rack for perfect monster zipper effect. Ripped the entire sky to shreds, left to right, in those final 5 seconds!!!
👍🏻n🚊 Nice demo
Thanks!