Compound turbos for towing, Ultimate Tow Machine, See how to build on a budget
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- Опубліковано 22 сер 2024
- This is a video of how to build compound turbos for towing. This compound turbo setup for towing was done on a budget. If you want compound turbos for towing, but don"t want to spend a lot of money, this is a must-see video. This is a custom-built compound turbo setup, not a kit for compound turbos.
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Great video it’s nice to see someone using what is available other than dropping 5-8 k for the same results I like the idea of the body lift for additional room my truck is so tight in the back I’m wondering about using my cheetah vgt turbo in a compound setup I bought it on a whelm because I need the truck for work and I don’t know if it is possible to do it but I am going to look into it thanks Glenn
Most people bitching about your welds couldn't tell a stinger from a ground so don't let them bother you. As long as they don't leak or break it's a good enough weld for your own stuff.
Nice work, I took some of your advice and made my own compound system for $440 bucks.:) I bought a borgwarner K27 and K31 rebuildable cores that were off new wrecks and used those. Both are like new and work really nice. I'll be road testing them soon. Thanks.
I think this helped... I just need to collect a few random bits to try and build my own.
Really good video with a lot of really good information. If your welds held up for 300,000 miles I say they work just fine. As far as pay to play you either have talent or you pay for talent. Thanks for taking the time to make this video is very helpful
There is a second drain port on the block that has a plug in it to use for the second turbo.
I like your fuel preheating. Smart guy
Thanks for making this video, very informative. Good work!
Glad it was helpful!
Glad I found this video will be checking out more in just now getting to the end of my first gen 12v swap on my 06 6.0 dully definitely trying to making some more power
What are you doing with the powerstroke? May be interested in it
Maybe can you show us how you made the piping?
it help a little bit . got turbos pilping hard to find . This being the last truck im going to build. Any help would be great. Charlie from Maine
Take good exhaust out Of other trucks/cars and cut the pieces you need and weld it together. Or buy crazy Carl’s
Hey did you ever have a trans to coolant cooler just underneath the stock turbo before you went with twins? If so how did you go about deleting it. I’m looking to start making arrangements to go with twins
No I have a 6 speed
Ok what liter size is that engine? And what size turbo did you put on the bottom to replace the 55? The stock turbo should be a 40w? Or was it a 35? Of course all that is almost worthless without turbine and compressor wheel sizes. Also where do you source the turbo's for a decent price?
It is5.9 cummins, I had a hx40 on top because I have a HO 6 speed. I put a hx50 on the bottom. This seems to be the best combo for me, I towed about 12,000 pounds the other day (Scrap yard scale) and they worked good. You are right you need to know the wheel size, Cummins uses Holset turbo on all there engines. This is what I meant about the top turbo is about the same size as stock with a bigger housing, the turbine and compressor wheel are about the same as a Holset hx40. The housing is a T-4 and Holset hx40 is T-3. I just google" hx50 turbo" and keep looking. There is a chance of getting a junk turbo, they probably all come from China. The word made in China dose not mean junk but they don't cost $1500 + like a true Holset. I payed $325. for mine and have used them in the past with good luck.
Thanks. You mentioned you found the 50 too big or was that a 55? It looked like you were trading it out for a slightly smaller turbo.
The hx55 was a little slow to spool up. I took the hx55 off and put the hx50 on it spools up much sooner.
Ahh ok. I see now.
What kind of mileage are you getting with the compounds vs stock?
I always have about 2000 + pounds on it. With out compounds I would get 19 - 20 and towing I would get 12 -13. With compounds I get 21 - 22 and towing 14 -15. If I keep my foot out of it, with fun take offs I will get 18 - 19.
That is pretty awesome video thanks for sharing
I really enjoy your compound turbo videos, I’m getting some bits and pieces together to do this to a 7.5l Mitsubishi truck
WTF is a ton of miles 200,000 or 1,000,000?
What kind of hp/torque are you making with this setup?
I am not sure, I never had it on a dyno. It runs good. I am happy with it.
Glenn 3505 increased fuel economy you said in the video? Lower EGT all around? Any negatives you’ve found?
Can you run two of the same turbos or should it always be a small feeding a big turbo?
The point is small turbos spool fast, big turbos spool slow. Small turbos run out of boost in low RPM's and the big dose the work in higher RPM's. So working together give you boost in low and high RPM's. So no, if you put turbos the same size on you would not gain anything.
DillonBets 69 yes you can. They should really be the same to keep the back pressure on the engine. His five inch on that exhaust is way to big. He’s loosing hp because of him loosing to much back pressure. He sounds like he’s done his home work but he needs a little more information from a top notch guy on turbochargers and the correct way to set it up. But he did a half decent job for the first time.
@@johnhutchinson5398 wrong.
@@johnhutchinson5398 I think your mistaken with regards to back pressure when it comes to turbo diesel engines. A turbo diesel with the biggest down pipe (5 or 6 inches in general for work trucks) and no muffler, just a straight pipe back, or to stacks if you prefer, is the best setup. Back pressure will be substantially less with an A/R of 1.00, 1.05, 1.10 versus .70, .84, .96. Less back pressure, lower exhaust temps when hauling uphill under load.
Those turbo housings are cast aren't they? If so I think from what I can see of your welds that they look pretty darn good. Most non-welders (the people who bitch) don't realize that you haven't cleaned them up at all so you still have spatter. Those people also expect every weld to look like a TIG weld on aluminum which of course isn't possible. Damn keyboard critics who know nothing in reality but know everything in the comment section.
The exhaust part is steel the boost part is aluminum.
I have 25 years welding experience. You shouldn't be commenting either. You don't know what you are looking at.
Your engine bay looks nasty
To big of an exhaust pipe let to much back pressure out of the engine. You should only have a three or 3 1/2 inch at the most. The same with the intake. That’s why you’re turbo on the exhaust isn’t spinning till a higher rpm.
What? Why would you want a smaller intake? Exhaust back pressure doesnt matter in a diesel, high drive pressure is bad. If its laggy get a smaller ar housing. Go back to your gasser.
john Hutchison you are incorrect sir, 5" exhaust is good in the diesel world. Keep reading about chargers for gassers, You have no clue what drive pressure is apparently. my current setup is a s363 over an s475, 6 x.013's, 3600 Valair DD, i can beat the snot out of it and get 21-22 mpg
I think your mistaken with regards to back pressure when it comes to turbo diesel engines. A turbo diesel with the biggest down pipe (5 or 6 inches in general for work trucks) and no muffler, just a straight pipe back, or to stacks if you prefer, is the best setup. Back pressure will be substantially less with an A/R of 1.00, 1.05, 1.10 versus .70, .84, .96. Less back pressure, lower exhaust temps when hauling uphill under load.