Great coverage of a semi complex system. Anything electrical can be confusing, frightening, pick your own adjectives , if you are not comfortable with electrical systems. Plus with solar, size of panels, size of controller, number and size of batteries, and size of inverter ! Simple system really, with the right tutalidge and Tod on speed dial. Not ready yet but as I replace my roof, I will be a customer. Get wires routing correct, components on hand and fearless attitude ready. Thanks guys for a very informative video.
Thank you Todd and Tony! I learn so much from your videos. I am a DIYer, and put in our system. It’s perfect size, and we have been disconnected, since March. I love it. So quiet.
Newer construction (sticks and bricks) require 20 Amp electrical circuits in the garage of a home. So, if "moochdocking" check the breaker box to see what amperage you are connecting to. At 20 Amps, you might be able to run an AC.
Thanks Todd and Big Beard Battery for the recent installation of our system. I always learn so much from your videos and this was a great refresher course on all the components and overall operation of the system.
Inverter question: Battery=>Inverter=>120VAC bus on power center. I get that. How about powering the 12VDC side? Is that a second set of cables off the battery to the 12V bus?
I’m looking at getting a bigger travel trailer (ORV24RKS) than what I have now (FR16BHSBL) with a 12v only fridge which draws my batteries down. I don’t go to very hot places in the summer or very cold places in the winter so I’m currently using two 100ah lithium batteries and a 50w panel on the roof plus 260w flex panels on the ground. I assume that I can get away with two b-facial 200w panels on the roof along with the 260w flex panel on the ground but think about going up to 400ah of lithium batteries. I have a 2020 F250 with 7.3L Godzilla and 3366 payload.
We are not interested in the solar aspect but we were wondering if you have already done a video on how to transfer your batteries from lead or agm to lithium? That is what we definitely want to do in our motorhome.
Not a video on this chanel and yes we can do one. To switch the battery(ies) to lithium, you will need to verify if your current charger can charge lithium, if it cant then you would have to swap out your existing converter for a lithium capable charger. On average it would cost you about $120 extra to make the swap on the converter to a lithium charger.
@@RickandDarcirvadventures No need. the alternator will charge what it can. As long as you do not upgrade the wires from the truck to the RV then you are golden. the wires in the 7pin connector will create enough resistance to keep the alternator from overworking.
Thanks Todd & Tony (or Tony & Todd) for another great video. Appreciate the clarification provided on solar systems. I did have a question regarding the difference between mono facial and bi facial Solar panels. I have heard that bi facial panels can add up to a 30% more absorption rate. Is this true? More importantly, is the “Squeeze worth the juice”? Would love to get your opinion on this. Thank you!!
Ok in short Bi-facial panels have the ability to pick up light from both the top and bottom. These type of panels are for ground mount applications where the reflection off the ground can be absorbed such as mounting them pointed to the sunset a few feet off the ground and on sunrise the sun hits the ground and reflects the light up to the panel, the greater the reflective ability of the ground the better efficiency you have. Sand is a good reflective substraight in this application. If they are going on a roof they serve NO additional benefit. The will not be MORE efficient than a monofacial panel at that point. So they have their purpose but it depends on the application.
I added one 175 watt ridged panel for AGM battery maintenance when between camping trips (no shore power available). Is it true that solar panels stopped working April 8 during the eclipse? Thank you for educating us who want more knowledge about our RVs
I'm sure the solar stop producing power during the total eclipse. Only this time instead of the earth blocking the sun the moon was blocking the sun. Throw a tarp over your solar panels and it will be just like night time.
well I guess they stopped working when the sun was near covered for the 1-4 mins depending on location. Solar panels work off of light not heat so when the light was covered the solar panel delivery of electricity dropped.
Great video. I have 380 watts of solar, 2X100ah lithium batteries and a 2200watt inverter. Is my 2200watt inverter big enough to run one 15,000btu A/C, TV and 10cuft 12v refrigerator at the same time?
Typically no. while it might work sometimes you would really need to dig in to the data of that specific brand inverter. Typically inverters (depending on mfgr) will give a starting watts description not a continuous duty watts until you read the data. 2200 watts could run an ac in warm weather, but in hot weather you would be very hard pressed to have that thing run the ac muchless the ac and the 10cuft fridge. The hotter it gets the more wattage your compressors will draw.
thinking about an rv that comes with 1000 w lithium battery and 1 or 2 solar panels already installed. can that be isolated for specific use, would that be practical, and install a new system to handle my off grid needs? is the object to incorporate old system with new system, or replace entire system... ie allience valor toy hauler
So seperating your existing 12v to run your 12v needs and the solar system is very practical and most of the times I recommend it, if you have the available space for 2 different systems.
My 5th wheel RV has 380 watts of solar and 200ah of lithium batteries. I still have the factory controller that only charges acid, AGM batteries. My controller will still charge my lithium batteries to about 80%. My solar will charge the Lithium batteries to 100% charge. My RV is in storage and the battery shut off switch to the RV is in the off position but my solar is wired directly to batteries via the solar controller still charges the batteries to 100%. I check on my batteries at noon yesterday and they were at 100%. So I guess there is no need to upgrade my existing factory acid charge controller to a lithium charger? A new lithium charger would cost $275 plus.
So I wonder if the solar charger you have is also capable of charging lithium. More specifically can it push the voltage to 14.4 to 14.6. if so then yes your solar can top off the batteries as long as there is enough sunlight to take that last 20% from the standard charger.
@@ToddandTonyshow I finally charged ahead and replaces my controller/charger with a lithium controller/charger (PowerMax) for about $150. it's best on the rainy or cloudy days to start out with a 100% chargers batteries than 75-80%.
NICE !!!
Great coverage of a semi complex system.
Anything electrical can be confusing, frightening, pick your own adjectives , if you are not comfortable with electrical systems.
Plus with solar, size of panels, size of controller, number and size of batteries, and size of inverter ! Simple system really, with the right tutalidge and Tod on speed dial.
Not ready yet but as I replace my roof, I will be a customer. Get wires routing correct, components on hand and fearless attitude ready.
Thanks guys for a very informative video.
Thank you Todd and Tony! I learn so much from your videos. I am a DIYer, and put in our system. It’s perfect size, and we have been disconnected, since March. I love it. So quiet.
Newer construction (sticks and bricks) require 20 Amp electrical circuits in the garage of a home. So, if "moochdocking" check the breaker box to see what amperage you are connecting to. At 20 Amps, you might be able to run an AC.
Consider step up/down DC to DC converters for using or recharging computers, phones, or even a CPAP machine.
I think my biggest consideration was enough power to run the slide in/out most difficult with manual slide in and no power
Thanks Todd and Big Beard Battery for the recent installation of our system. I always learn so much from your videos and this was a great refresher course on all the components and overall operation of the system.
Inverter question:
Battery=>Inverter=>120VAC bus on power center. I get that.
How about powering the 12VDC side? Is that a second set of cables off the battery to the 12V bus?
Hey guys, great information and very helpful as I start the planning for a solar upgrade and components for my fifth wheel.
I’m looking at getting a bigger travel trailer (ORV24RKS) than what I have now (FR16BHSBL) with a 12v only fridge which draws my batteries down. I don’t go to very hot places in the summer or very cold places in the winter so I’m currently using two 100ah lithium batteries and a 50w panel on the roof plus 260w flex panels on the ground. I assume that I can get away with two b-facial 200w panels on the roof along with the 260w flex panel on the ground but think about going up to 400ah of lithium batteries. I have a 2020 F250 with 7.3L Godzilla and 3366 payload.
Thanks guys!! Great info!
Question Todd would it be beneficial to mount an aluminum plate behind the solar controller to help dissipate the heat?
T&T thank you for this info!
Do you guys have a way to contact outside of here, I'd love to get some advice. Not sure if you have a service for that
We are not interested in the solar aspect but we were wondering if you have already done a video on how to transfer your batteries from lead or agm to lithium? That is what we definitely want to do in our motorhome.
Not a video on this chanel and yes we can do one. To switch the battery(ies) to lithium, you will need to verify if your current charger can charge lithium, if it cant then you would have to swap out your existing converter for a lithium capable charger. On average it would cost you about $120 extra to make the swap on the converter to a lithium charger.
@@ToddandTonyshow thank you. Seems easy enough.
@@ToddandTonyshow do you need to switch out your alternator too?
@@RickandDarcirvadventures No need. the alternator will charge what it can. As long as you do not upgrade the wires from the truck to the RV then you are golden. the wires in the 7pin connector will create enough resistance to keep the alternator from overworking.
Thanks Todd & Tony (or Tony & Todd) for another great video. Appreciate the clarification provided on solar systems. I did have a question regarding the difference between mono facial and bi facial Solar panels. I have heard that bi facial panels can add up to a 30% more absorption rate. Is this true? More importantly, is the “Squeeze worth the juice”? Would love to get your opinion on this. Thank you!!
Ok in short Bi-facial panels have the ability to pick up light from both the top and bottom. These type of panels are for ground mount applications where the reflection off the ground can be absorbed such as mounting them pointed to the sunset a few feet off the ground and on sunrise the sun hits the ground and reflects the light up to the panel, the greater the reflective ability of the ground the better efficiency you have. Sand is a good reflective substraight in this application.
If they are going on a roof they serve NO additional benefit. The will not be MORE efficient than a monofacial panel at that point. So they have their purpose but it depends on the application.
I added one 175 watt ridged panel for AGM battery maintenance when between camping trips (no shore power available). Is it true that solar panels stopped working April 8 during the eclipse? Thank you for educating us who want more knowledge about our RVs
I'm sure the solar stop producing power during the total eclipse. Only this time instead of the earth blocking the sun the moon was blocking the sun. Throw a tarp over your solar panels and it will be just like night time.
well I guess they stopped working when the sun was near covered for the 1-4 mins depending on location. Solar panels work off of light not heat so when the light was covered the solar panel delivery of electricity dropped.
Great video. I have 380 watts of solar, 2X100ah lithium batteries and a 2200watt inverter. Is my 2200watt inverter big enough to run one 15,000btu A/C, TV and 10cuft 12v refrigerator at the same time?
Typically no. while it might work sometimes you would really need to dig in to the data of that specific brand inverter. Typically inverters (depending on mfgr) will give a starting watts description not a continuous duty watts until you read the data.
2200 watts could run an ac in warm weather, but in hot weather you would be very hard pressed to have that thing run the ac muchless the ac and the 10cuft fridge. The hotter it gets the more wattage your compressors will draw.
@@ToddandTonyshow I finally upgraded my my 2200 watt inverter to a LiTime 3000 watt inverter and add a soft start to my A/C.
thinking about an rv that comes with 1000 w lithium battery and 1 or 2 solar panels already installed. can that be isolated for specific use, would that be practical, and install a new system to handle my off grid needs? is the object to incorporate old system with new system, or replace entire system... ie allience valor toy hauler
So seperating your existing 12v to run your 12v needs and the solar system is very practical and most of the times I recommend it, if you have the available space for 2 different systems.
I can't stop thinking about buying all of the planets every time they say "Buying a solar system".
A user of a CPAP machine may be able to get a dedicated battery through their medical insurance.
My 5th wheel RV has 380 watts of solar and 200ah of lithium batteries. I still have the factory controller that only charges acid, AGM batteries. My controller will still charge my lithium batteries to about 80%. My solar will charge the Lithium batteries to 100% charge. My RV is in storage and the battery shut off switch to the RV is in the off position but my solar is wired directly to batteries via the solar controller still charges the batteries to 100%. I check on my batteries at noon yesterday and they were at 100%. So I guess there is no need to upgrade my existing factory acid charge controller to a lithium charger? A new lithium charger would cost $275 plus.
So I wonder if the solar charger you have is also capable of charging lithium. More specifically can it push the voltage to 14.4 to 14.6. if so then yes your solar can top off the batteries as long as there is enough sunlight to take that last 20% from the standard charger.
@@ToddandTonyshow I finally charged ahead and replaces my controller/charger with a lithium controller/charger (PowerMax) for about $150. it's best on the rainy or cloudy days to start out with a 100% chargers batteries than 75-80%.