$35 Soldering Station Followup - 936 eBay Chinese Knockoff
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- Опубліковано 15 вер 2024
- This is a followup review of the eBay 936 soldering station. We used this product for over 20 hours and it worked well for our latest electronics project. In this video we take it back apart and see how the insides are holding up after use.
The original review video can be found here: 936 Soldering Station - Really Affordable from Ebay.
• 936 Soldering Station ...
$35 Soldering Station Followup - 936 eBay Knockoff
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excellent review. thank you for taking the time for us.
omg i have run this for more then two months an it still works!! [ mine is yoltec but inside is the same .
Two things to check besides the magic smoke is how well it holds the set temperature and ensuring there is no voltage present on the tip which might destroy sensitive components. If you're just soldering wires together, it's not that important but would be for PCB builds.
...and for $35, you can always just buy another if it blew up on you... pretty good deal for the typical DIY'er...
how do you get voltage on the tip from a heating element cappe dwith the tip?
liked the video and bought one on Ebay. Cost was $27
It's honestly impressive they are selling this for such a low price.
If I were to produce a reproduction of the Hakko 936 it would not be worthwhile. Just the transformer alone is a good 40 dollars or so. I don't know where they source these parts so cheaply.
2:28 that transistor is bent a bit close to the heatsink. A small bent of the leads should fix it, from getting heat transfer
It's about $14 cheaper now! I'm about to pick this up and learn how to solder to fix my RC connectors.
nice find
Hi can you please tell me the voltage of transformer without load?
Hmm, is that mains input fused at the bottom of the control circuit? How's the separation to low voltage stuff?
I got a GaoYue 936 like a year ago... Pretty decent for $25
Used it for recapping some old systems, and a few projects.
I have the 937D and it looks like the only difference it the digital read out. I'm far from an expert and having a terrible time soldering 10 gauge wire with mine. Are any of you able to do that? and if so, any suggestions? What tip do you use, or whatever? Or is 480c not enough for that?
Otherwise it does fine, but just not worth it for me if it won't do some of the larger wire.
I would rather drop an additional 10 bucks and pick up the 80w version of this!
After 1.5 years my tip is not heating up. I see when you take off the tip there is a white plastic tube that seems to go all the way to the end. Mine has a band of metal extending from the end and some metal is covering the end of the tip. Not sure if this is the problem. One would expect some metal there to transfer heat to the tip that goes over it. Can I confirm that you don't have a metal band at the end? Or any other reason for the tip not heating up? I haven't opened up the box to have a look. Should probably do that.
The long white cylinder is a ceramic coated heating element. The cheap ones use wire wound heating coils, and are undersized. The better ones have a foil heater encapsulated in the ceramic and are accurately sized for a slip fit.
The end of the heater should be exposed white ceramic. Some high quality tips have a springy copper or copper alloy sleeve for better thermal contact. That may have come out and remained on the heating element.
Replacement heating elements are only a few dollars. The main type variation is a thermistor or thermocouple temperature sensor (A1321 vs A1322). it may take a few purchases to find a good one. There are quality ones and cheap ones, and it's a dice roll which you'll get no matter what price you pay.
Except some of such cheap stations shipped with a metal encased heater, not a ceramic coated one. But it can take ceramic one too, no problem.
Maybe Aouye from a local official distributor could be replacements that are at least consistent in quality, i don't know, just an idea.
The "A1323" heater has a stainless steel case, but those are more expensive and thus uncommon on the low-end stations. The stainless case also extends from the base to the tip, so no white is visible.
So I bought a cheap tip with cable, handle and everything. I think it was $8. Despite it looking just slightly smaller, before I had soldered anything the plastic melted. I then used the ceramic part (white everywhere including on the end) in my old cable and tip and it wasn't hot enough! In other words, somehow the plastic melted even though it's not getting to full temperature. So still not sure if it's the unit or the ceramic part.
I did actually turn up the calibration to full when it melted and it may not have been on full after I changed to my original handle with the new ceramic part. The reason for that is the calibration screw on the unit had shifted and wasn't properly accessible! Next step I think is to try to turn it up to full again.
20 hours use and a burnt out tip.. I wouldn't call that good, I've had tips last for years.
For the difference in price you can buy a lot of knock off tips.
20 hours of solid use I'd imagine, that does say quite a bit about it.
The thing is, you can buy higher quality tips so tip failure isn't too
much of an issue here in my opinion. I'd hate to admit what I paid for
my Weller station without temp control over 20 years ago. If you're a
tool snob then that's fine, I tend to be that way myself, but I have to
admit that I bought a Chinese knock-off soldering station with
temp control and a vacuum pump as well as heat gun for less than I paid
for my Weller, it's still working two years later. Yes, I bought some
high quality tips for it and I expect them to last a long time.
thanks, here are the tips I got that are less than a $1 each - www.ebay.com/itm/10-Solder-Screwdriver-Iron-Tip-900M-T-for-Hakko-Soldering-Rework-Station-Tool-/181775714850?hash=item2a52ad4a22:g:tcoAAOSwxH1UINSg
*****
What Weller station do you have that is not temperature controlled? It may be, you just might not know it. Weller controls the temperature by what tips you use. It is called Magnastat. If you look at the end you put in the iron there is a number stamped in it. That number is the temp the tip runs at times 100 in Fahrenheit. You can get 6s, 7s, and 8s.
Tip life is very heavily dependent on the operating temperature and the solder composition.
Eutectic lead solder melts at about 183C, and a tip temperature of 200-250C is reasonable. At the lower end of that range even a raw copper tip is usable. An iron-plated tip used to be a premium product, and would last a decade of hobbyist use. Flux carbonization is almost non-existent, and is an indication that the iron is too hot.
Lead-free solder requires 20C-50C higher temperature to soften, and even higher temperature to flow well. At this temperature raw copper will dissolve into the solder fairly quickly, thus Iron plating is pretty much required. The iron in turn will corrode much faster, so additional chrome or nickel plating is needed on other areas of the tip.
A damp sponge used to be the standard way to clean a tip. It would remove acidic flux and odd alloys in the slag, actually extending tip life over not cleaning the tip. But the combination of higher temperature, a thicker iron coating and lead-free solder makes the iron layer susceptible to cracking from thermal shock. Once it cracks down to the copper, erosion quickly ruins the tip. So shaved metal is now the preferred way to clean tips, even though it doesn't work quite as well.
You used that for 20 hours and didn't explode . Wow . Nice !!!!
that's expensive u could have gotten it for 17 or even 11 bucks