I don't have lift anymore. But it don't mean it can't be done!!!! Just bought van for work. I'm a painter for 27yrs. Vans really are a good asset and tool have.keeps things dry and LOCKED UP..
Sure give me shout Justin.I just put the pcs solenoid in. I know some people put the shift solenoids in just because it's apart but if they ohm out good, no troubles codes for them I'd just change the pcs solenoid. And I go to the dealer yourself and buy the part. Some of the transmission shops probably buy aftermarket solenoids which I wouldn't use!
Gmax yes there is total fluid loss, or very close,plus i pulled the bottom pan and changed the filter why i was in there. I change the fluid alot in my personal cars and i get crazy amount of miles out of them. I put a drain plug in my transmission pan ,some have them already! and i simple drain out he fluid every other oil change or so. You only get like 5 qts out when doing this and be sure to use the right top end fluid!!!! Not the cheap crap or the dex 3 alot people use.If you look at any of my cars the trans fluid is like brand new! My last 3 cars ive driven well over 300,000 miles each and never once put a transmission in any of them!!!!
Our 07 Uplander was doing the extra hard shift out of park before the transmission went out. No check engine so no codes. So now you can hear a buzzing noise coming from under the side of the transmission in the driver's side. The van will start. We can shift to park to drive or reverse for a few seconds but once the car warms up a little no gear you put it in works.
quick over view Jason for changing your pressure control solenoid on your 07 uplander for "neutraling out" when coming to a stop then banging hard going back into drive when you try to take off again. Very common problem done hundred of these.
Thanks for the video - I found this and it's encouraging because my car is behaving similar to the description and I was thinking I would have to replace the tranny (seems to slip occasionally when taking off from a stop, otherwise fine). Any idea what a shop *should* quote to fix this, if this is indeed the problem?
Dustin If it was me and your car came into my work bay id verify that the solenoid works by turning it on with my professional use scan tool and i have a low amp clamp that would be around the control wire for that solenoid.So one,that would tell me the computer is good and can control it and if the solenoid itself is good!(electrically) still don't know if the mechanical part is good or that the valve in the valve body is actually moving or that the torque converter clutch inside the converter is good?? if the solenoid tested bad it would be like the repair in this video and while i was there i'd make sure the valve was free and not sticking. But if the valve body was bad or worn out or maybe the converter then i'd be recommending a reman unit from GM!! Can get a little tricky with transmission cause you got to verify that the electrical and then the mechanical side are both good. The electrical test of the solenoid can be done quickly 30 minutes should be enough time so if you took it to a shop you'd have to pay their diagnostic fee BUT!!!! being in this field all my life alot of mechanics are great nut and bolt guys but struggle with electrical and computer controls. So you need to find a shop/mechanic that is good in these areas!! Well how do you do that? Ask some questions. !. what scan tool do they have? Better be a Tech2 or snap on for example cause i know those two can do this test,those little $100 code pullers at autozone ain't going to cut it. These professional level scanners start at about $5000. 2. Do you have a hand held scope with a low amp clamp? After asking just these two question then asking to see them will tell me you have found a shop thats keeping up with technology and then i'd feel comfortable that my diagnostic fee is being well spent. my snap on Verus Pro which is snap on's flagship product has both in one tool and is over $10,000.If your not sure what this tools looks like go to www.aeswave.com/ and look at them. They also offer the small do it yourself tools but the professional shop should have the top end ones and the real good shops will have several! But when finding a good shop that can diagnose these modern cars thats the best advice i can give you on that,cause after 25years in this field i'm sad to say alot of shops aren't equipped to fix these cars. People then seem to say there getting rip off but the guys are usually honest ,yes theres some bad apples but its mostly guys without the correct tools and lack of training. Heres some testing info,not sure if your mechanical inclined or not? OPERATION The TCC PWM solenoid is used to Control apply pressure of the torque converter clutch. PCM controls the TCC PWM solenoid by using pulse width modulation. Duty cycle increases to apply the TCC and decreases to release TCC. The change of Duty cycle allows smoother TCC apply. Eccc (electronic converter clutch Control) allows some percent of slippage to cushion drivetrain vibrations. Typical apply speeds are 30-32 MPH (49-52 KM/h) in third gear and 40-45 MPH (65-73 KM/h) in fourth gear. Full lockup is available at highway speeds on some applications. LOCATION Best test Location: the Engine to transaxle harness, towards radiator, top of trans. Component Location: inside trans side cover. Attatched to valve body. CONNECTOR View: Harness Side, Backprobing Transmission Case Connector 6669 Pin Assignment Wire Color A=(S1) Shift Solenoid Control "LtGreen" B=(S2) Shift Solenoid Control "Yellow-Black" C=PC Solenoid Control High "Red-Black" or "Orange-Black" D=PC Solenoid Control Low "LtBlue-White"or "LtBlue" E=Ignition Positive To TCC PWM And Shift Solenoids "Pink" F=Range Switch A "Black-White" or "Tan-White" G=Range Switch B "Yellow" H=Range Switch C "Gray" J=Range Switch P "White" K=Ground "Black-White" L=TFT Positive "Yellow-Black" M=TFT/PCM Negative "Black" or "Tan" S=ISS Positive "Red-Black" or "Orange-Black" T=TCC PWM Solenoid Control "Brown" or "Tan-Black" U=TCC Release Switch Signal "White" or "Yellow" V=ISS Negative "Blue-White" or "DkBlue-White" W=Park/Neutral Switch Signal "Orange-Black" or "DkGreen" Test this component: TCC LOCK-UP SOLENOID TESTS RESISTANCE TEST Key off, disconnect harness at transmission case. More TCC LOCK-UP SOLENOID TESTS DUTY CYCLE TEST Connect test leads: More Heres a TSB bulletin on that code that might apply?? Sorry but the diagrams didn't carry over. INFORMATION ON 4T65-E MN7, M15 AND M76 FRONT WHEEL DRIVE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION VALVE BODY RECONDITIONING, DTCS P0741, P0742, P0757, P842, HARSH SHIFTS OR SLIPS TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN Reference Number(s): 08-07-30-002A, Date of Issue: March 12, 2008 Affected Model(s): 2001-2005 Buick LeSabre, Park Avenue; 2002-2007 Buick Rendezvous, Rendezvous AWD; 2005-2007 Buick Terraza, Terraza EXT, Terraza 4WD; 2005-2008 Buick Allure (Canada Only), LaCrosse; 2006-2008 Lucerne; 2001 Chevrolet Lumina; 2001-2005 Chevrolet Venture, Venture EXT, Venture 4WD; 2001-2007 Chevrolet Monte Carlo; 2001-2008 Chevrolet Impala, Lumina (Export Only); 2005-2008 Chevrolet Uplander, Uplander EXT, Uplander 4WD; 2001-2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue; 2001-2003 Oldsmobile Silhouette, Silhouette EXT; 2004 Oldsmobile Silhouette EXT; 2001-2005 Pontiac Montana, Montana EXT; 2001-2005 Pontiac Aztek, Aztek AWD, Bonneville; 2001-2008 Pontiac Grand Prix; 2002-2005 Pontiac Montana 4WD; 2005-2006 Pontiac Montana SV6 (AWD); 2005-2008 Pontiac Montana SV6, Montana SV6 EXT; 2005-2006 Saturn Relay, Relay AWD; 2005-2007 Saturn Relay EXT; with Hydra-Matic® 4T65-E (RPOs - MN7, M15, M76) Automatic Transmission Supercedes: This bulletin is being updated to include Related Service Document information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 08-07-30-002 (Section 07 -- Transmission/Transaxle). SERVICE INFORMATION The following new service information will aid technicians in providing easy to follow valve body reconditioning instructions and new illustrations to simplify reassembly of the valve body. Related Service Document Corporate Bulletin Number 02-07-30-013 : Incorrect Transmission Shifts, Poor Engine Performance, Harsh 1-2 Upshifts, Slips 1st and Reverse, Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) Stuck Off/On, DTCs P0757, P0741, P0742, P0730, P0756. IMPORTANT: If valve body cleaning is not required, DO NOT disassemble bores unless it is necessary to verify movement of valves. Inspection Procedure Using the exploded views in this bulletin, inspect each bore for freedom of valve(s) movement and evidence of debris. Pay particular attention to those valves related to the customer's concern. Verify movement of the valves in their normal installed position. Valves may become restricted during removal or installation. This is normal due to small tolerances between the valves and bores. If a valve is restricted and cannot be corrected by cleaning the valve and bore, replace the valve body. Describe the restricted valve on the repair order. NOTE: Be sure all solenoids are installed with the electrical connectors facing the non-machined (cast) side of the valve body. Otherwise, the solenoids will bind against the transmission case as the valve body bolts are tightened and damage may occur. Disassembly/Reassembly If a valve is restricted by a metal burr from machining that bore, remove the valve and burr, then inspect movement in the valve's normal position. If no other debris or restrictions are found, reassemble the valve body and install in the transmission. If the valve body has been contaminated with debris from another transmission component failure, disassemble all bores for complete cleaning of all valve body components. If possible, keep individual bore parts separated for ease of reassembly. Use the following illustrations in this bulletin for a positive identification and location of individual parts: Left Side Control Valve Body Assembly Right Side Control Valve Body Assembly Control Valve Body Assembly Chart, Valve Springs and Bore Plugs CAUTION: Use appropriate eye protection when cleaning the valve body to prevent injury. Using GM Brake Clean, or equivalent, in a safe and clean environment (clean aluminum pan) clean the valve body and dry it with compressed air. Clean individual valve body components with GM Brake Clean, or equivalent. Coat each valve with clean ATF and reassemble in each bore. Check each valve for free movement during assembly of each bore. Fig. 1: View Of Left Side Control Valve Body Assembly GM2021845 Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP. Callouts For Previous Graphic Call Out Number Description 301 Control Valve Body (Machined) 302 Line Boost Valve And Bushing Retainer 303 Line Boost Valve Bore Plug 304 Line Boost Valve 309 Reverse Boost Valve Bushing 310 Reverse Boost Valve 311 Pressure Regulator Valve Spring Outer 312 Pressure Regulator Valve Inner Spring 313 Pressure Regulator Valve 314 1-2, 3-4 Shift Solenoid Valve Retainer Pressure Control Solenoid Valve Retainer TCC PWM Solenoid Valve Retainer TCC Regulator Apply Valve Bore Plug Retainer 315 1-2, 3-4 Shift Solenoid Assembly 317 1-2 Shift Valve Spring 318 1-2 Shift Valve 320 Torque Signal Regulator Valve Spring 321 Torque Signal Regulator Valve 322 Pressure Control Solenoid Valve Assembly 323 Line Pressure Relief Valve Spring 324 Line Pressure Relief Valve 325 Line Pressure Relief Valve Spring Retainer 326 TCC Regulator Apply Valve Spring 327 TCC Regulator Apply Valve 329 TCC Regulator Apply Valve Bore Plug 334 TCC PWM Solenoid Valve Assembly 335 TCC Control Valve 336 TCC Control Valve Spring Fig. 2: View Of Right Side Control Valve Body Assembly GM2021850 Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP. Callouts For Previous Graphic Call Out Number Description 301 Control Valve Body (Machined) 314 1-2, 3-4 Accumulator Valve Retainer 4-3 Manual Downshift Valve Retainer 2-3 Shift Solenoid Valve Retainer 315 1-2, 3-4 Shift Solenoid Valve Assembly 339 1-2 Accumulator Valve Bore Plug 340 3-4 Accumulator Valve Spring 341 3-4 Accumulator Valve 342 2-3 Accumulator Valve Bushing 343 2-3 Accumulator Valve Bore Plug 344 2-3 Accumulator Valve 345 2-3 Accumulator Valve Bushing 346 2-3 Accumulator Valve Spring 350 1-2 Accumulator Valve 351 1-2 Accumulator Valve Spring 353 3-2 Manual Downshift Valve Retainer 354 3-2 Manual Downshift Valve Bore Plug 355 3-2 Manual Downshift Valve Spring 356 3-2 Manual Downshift Valve 357 2-3 Shift Valve 359 4-3 Manual Downshift Valve Bore Plug 360 4-3 Manual Downshift Valve 361 4-3 Manual Downshift Valve Spring 362 3-4 Shift Valve 363 Reverse Servo Boost Valve Bore Pin Forward Servo Boost Valve Bore Pin 366 Reverse Servo Boost Valve Spring Forward Servo Boost Valve Spring 367 Reverse Servo Boost Valve Forward Servo Boost Valve 385 2-3 Accumulator Valve Retainer Fig. 3: View Of Right Side Control Valve Body Assembly (1997-2000 M.Y. Only) GM2045364 Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP. Callouts For Previous Graphic Call Out Number Description 363 Reverse Servo Boost Valve Bore Pin Forward Servo Boost Valve Bore Pin 366 Reverse Servo Boost Valve Spring Forward Servo Boost Valve Spring 367 Reverse Servo Boost Valve Forward Servo Boost Valve Fig. 4: Valve Body Spring and Bore Plug Chart (Metric) GM2021849 Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP. Fig. 5: Valve Body Spring and Bore Plug Chart (Inch) GM2021853 Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP. Hide My SureTrack Dashboard Ask the Experts Enter a Tip Add Graph My Profile Support Top
i have a 08 chevy uplander. went to pull out of my drive this morning and it made a clunk sound. now when its in drive it just revs up. 1 and 2 work. 3rd gear only works when im going around 35 mph. hope this is all it needs.
The video was really well done. Did the repair solve the problem for the car? I'm interested because it describes exactly the problem I'm having with my Chevy 07 Uplander (same as on the video). It will cost me about $300 to get a shop to make the same repair, but they asked if I could get a confirmation that the fix worked.
Yes it fixed the problem! Like new again! Just so we are on the same page I'll describe what mine was doing again.The car would down shift funny sometimes coming to a stop but not always. But when you went to take off from a stop it didn't want to go and as you gave it more gas the transmission would engage hard and for the most part be good as you drove until you slowed back down and had to start again. I had no diagnostic trouble codes and the scan tool data showed no obvious problems. I've replaced a bunch of these solenoids on GM transmissions for this problem. Fairly common. $300 for this job at a shop sounds like a good price. Feel free to give me call or text if you need any other information on this repair 770-335-0227 Don Good luck!
70corwin Hey Don! Thanks for the quick reply. Yep, the symptoms are identical, except I don't get any funny downshifts coming to a stop (as far as I've noticed). But about 70% of the time, when trying to take off from a stop, when I give it some gas the transmission doesn't seem to engage, or maybe pulls very, very slow and sluggish like it is in a high gear. Then it will engage hard, jerking into gear. Sometimes, instead of a hard engage, it will shudder as if it is jerking in and out of the lower gear. Knowing the tendency, I go easy on the accelerator, allowing it to engage. After that, it shifts and drives fine through all the other driving situations. No slipping or problems. The transmission shop I talked to was reluctant to assure me that the single pressure control solenoid would be the fix. It looked like your fix required only replacing the one solenoid, right? I sure appreciate the info. Might give you a call if it's not a bother. Big Thanks.
Can you tell me the part number of the pressure controle selonoid so I get the right one, I have an 07 uplander setting around with that problem, i want to get it fixed and down the road. I have all the equipment to do the job.
I'm not the same as others here in thinking or saying it was a great vid. To my mind it left much to be desired. What you wanted to do was start by removing the tire, then "This is a repair that is difficult to do unless you have tools like a hydrolic jack,..." and go from there. How did you get the axle out? I'm right in the middle of this and a guy below is claiming that you could have done so without removing the axle. Geez I don't want to do that if I don't have to. How did you get the cover off? Can I get it off without removing the axle? Also difficult to see were the solenoids. How many are there, where are they,... "Some" shift solenoids, and the pressure control solenoid is what is in your vid. Ufortunately this was the only vid on this and I had to make some guesses. You seem like a great mechanic but many watching are non mechanics like me who have to do repairs like this or not drive due to finances. Try again. It seems like this should be about 10 minutes not the buck thirty seven it is.
Thanks for the video! If my van was younger, i would do this. It has over 150k miles on it 2006 3.9. It is sometimes slow engaging reverse and occasionally feels like it starts from stop in gear higher than 1st. Also, slips and screeches on upshift under WOT. I have been downshifting to first from start and letting off throttle with shift for last 30k miles now. Tough old thing keeps going! Oh, and changing filter and fluid did nothing. I towed a few vehicles heavier than van on dolly. I know that was bad! That abuse may be the reason too.
Just replaced the pressure controle selonoid, you dont have to lower the subframe or take the pan all the way off. Theirs enough room to pull the pan back far enough to get to the solenoid.
Was yours on an Uplander too? I have a lift and everything I just don't feel like taking half the van apart to change a $30 solenoid. I'm assuming you just pulled CV axle, trans mount bracket, and then tilted the pan out of the way?
@@daveh2612 yes an 07 Uplander. Only tricky part was putting the clip back in that holds the solenoid. Sounds like you have it under control so it shouldn't be a problem.
@@CRyan-iz3wr the side cover has a round opening where the axle shaft goes through, it's big enough so you dont have to pull the axle out. I had to pull mine out because theirs a seal just on the inside of the round opening of the pan that fell down so had to pull it so I had enough room to put the seal back in. So if the O ring seal stays in place no you dont have to pull the axle out.
@@milesfifer171 thank you for the reply. I think i need to do this repair on my mom's uplander. I repair just about anything but i am a little intimidated by this. If i fail the van will be stuck in my garage.
hi thanks for the information but mines(transmission) is kicking from first to second and second to third, do you know what kind of problem is? thank you, chevy uplander 2006 two wheel drive
Question.. does this problem also cause the van to stall out ?? exactly what you described happens as well as stalling while stopped and while driving.
Hey there, good video, Just wondering I found this video searching for a TCC Solenoid, is this the same thing. I have an 08 Uplander with a check engine light on, took to AutoZone and got a code for TCC solenoid Failure p0741 Thanks
Dustin You might want to start here and check out this TSB technical service bulletin first. ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/heavychevy396/2010-05-13_002818_P0741b.pdf
where are you at can u help me I'm a single parent trying to get life right and somebody kid stole my car and I'm having these same problems they trying to charge me 400!
I have a 2008 uplander and recently my trans stopped driving in drive and 3 1&2 still work could this be pcs issue or something bigger any help you could offer would be appreciated
I also have a Venture (same vehicle) that does this. Check for bad fuse, ground, broken or chafed wires first. If nothing then run diagnostic to check ECU computer for command signal to the solenoid. If all is good solenoid is not responding, replace all the shift solenoids and pressure control solenoid.
Scouring UA-cam, most crack expert mechanics for solenoid/P1811 on GM 4T65E: they replace all solenoids, central control, main wire harness (as the 10-15 yr old pigtails snap off), and side cover gasket
Thanks to your video I fixed my transmission. You explained clearly the steps. It was perfect for a beginner like me.
I don't have lift anymore. But it don't mean it can't be done!!!! Just bought van for work. I'm a painter for 27yrs. Vans really are a good asset and tool have.keeps things dry and LOCKED UP..
Sure give me shout Justin.I just put the pcs solenoid in. I know some people put the shift solenoids in just because it's apart but if they ohm out good, no troubles codes for them I'd just change the pcs solenoid. And I go to the dealer yourself and buy the part. Some of the transmission shops probably buy aftermarket solenoids which I wouldn't use!
Gmax yes there is total fluid loss, or very close,plus i pulled the bottom pan and changed the filter why i was in there. I change the fluid alot in my personal cars and i get crazy amount of miles out of them. I put a drain plug in my transmission pan ,some have them already! and i simple drain out he fluid every other oil change or so. You only get like 5 qts out when doing this and be sure to use the right top end fluid!!!! Not the cheap crap or the dex 3 alot people use.If you look at any of my cars the trans fluid is like brand new! My last 3 cars ive driven well over 300,000 miles each and never once put a transmission in any of them!!!!
Our 07 Uplander was doing the extra hard shift out of park before the transmission went out. No check engine so no codes. So now you can hear a buzzing noise coming from under the side of the transmission in the driver's side.
The van will start. We can shift to park to drive or reverse for a few seconds but once the car warms up a little no gear you put it in works.
quick over view Jason for changing your pressure control solenoid on your 07 uplander for "neutraling out" when coming to a stop then banging hard going back into drive when you try to take off again. Very common problem done hundred of these.
Its not good for it. drive it easy as you can. My wife and I drove ours for 3-4 months but i don't recommend it.
I've been driving our van about 6 months now that doesn't go pass 30mph...any ideas please
Thanks for the video - I found this and it's encouraging because my car is behaving similar to the description and I was thinking I would have to replace the tranny (seems to slip occasionally when taking off from a stop, otherwise fine). Any idea what a shop *should* quote to fix this, if this is indeed the problem?
Dustin
If it was me and your car came into my work bay id verify that the solenoid works by turning it on with my professional use scan tool and i have a low amp clamp that would be around the control wire for that solenoid.So one,that would tell me the computer is good and can control it and if the solenoid itself is good!(electrically) still don't know if the mechanical part is good or that the valve in the valve body is actually moving or that the torque converter clutch inside the converter is good?? if the solenoid tested bad it would be like the repair in this video and while i was there i'd make sure the valve was free and not sticking. But if the valve body was bad or worn out or maybe the converter then i'd be recommending a reman unit from GM!! Can get a little tricky with transmission cause you got to verify that the electrical and then the mechanical side are both good. The electrical test of the solenoid can be done quickly 30 minutes should be enough time so if you took it to a shop you'd have to pay their diagnostic fee BUT!!!! being in this field all my life alot of mechanics are great nut and bolt guys but struggle with electrical and computer controls. So you need to find a shop/mechanic that is good in these areas!! Well how do you do that? Ask some questions.
!. what scan tool do they have?
Better be a Tech2 or snap on for example cause i know those two can do this test,those little $100 code pullers at autozone ain't going to cut it. These professional level scanners start at about $5000.
2. Do you have a hand held scope with a low amp clamp?
After asking just these two question then asking to see them will tell me you have found a shop thats keeping up with technology and then i'd feel comfortable that my diagnostic fee is being well spent. my snap on Verus Pro which is snap on's flagship product has both in one tool and is over $10,000.If your not sure what this tools looks like go to www.aeswave.com/ and look at them. They also offer the small do it yourself tools but the professional shop should have the top end ones and the real good shops will have several!
But when finding a good shop that can diagnose these modern cars thats the best advice i can give you on that,cause after 25years in this field i'm sad to say alot of shops aren't equipped to fix these cars. People then seem to say there getting rip off but the guys are usually honest ,yes theres some bad apples but its mostly guys without the correct tools and lack of training.
Heres some testing info,not sure if your mechanical inclined or not?
OPERATION
The TCC PWM solenoid is used to Control apply pressure of the torque converter clutch.
PCM controls the TCC PWM solenoid by using pulse width modulation.
Duty cycle increases to apply the TCC and decreases to release TCC.
The change of Duty cycle allows smoother TCC apply.
Eccc (electronic converter clutch Control) allows some percent of slippage to cushion drivetrain vibrations.
Typical apply speeds are 30-32 MPH (49-52 KM/h) in third gear and 40-45 MPH (65-73 KM/h) in fourth gear.
Full lockup is available at highway speeds on some applications.
LOCATION
Best test Location: the Engine to transaxle harness, towards radiator, top of trans.
Component Location: inside trans side cover. Attatched to valve body.
CONNECTOR
View: Harness Side, Backprobing Transmission Case Connector
6669
Pin Assignment Wire Color
A=(S1) Shift Solenoid Control "LtGreen"
B=(S2) Shift Solenoid Control "Yellow-Black"
C=PC Solenoid Control High "Red-Black" or "Orange-Black"
D=PC Solenoid Control Low "LtBlue-White"or "LtBlue"
E=Ignition Positive To TCC PWM And Shift Solenoids "Pink"
F=Range Switch A "Black-White" or "Tan-White"
G=Range Switch B "Yellow"
H=Range Switch C "Gray"
J=Range Switch P "White"
K=Ground "Black-White"
L=TFT Positive "Yellow-Black"
M=TFT/PCM Negative "Black" or "Tan"
S=ISS Positive "Red-Black" or "Orange-Black"
T=TCC PWM Solenoid Control "Brown" or "Tan-Black"
U=TCC Release Switch Signal "White" or "Yellow"
V=ISS Negative "Blue-White" or "DkBlue-White"
W=Park/Neutral Switch Signal "Orange-Black" or "DkGreen"
Test this component:
TCC LOCK-UP SOLENOID TESTS RESISTANCE TEST
Key off, disconnect harness at transmission case.
More
TCC LOCK-UP SOLENOID TESTS DUTY CYCLE TEST
Connect test leads:
More
Heres a TSB bulletin on that code that might apply?? Sorry but the diagrams didn't carry over.
INFORMATION ON 4T65-E MN7, M15 AND M76 FRONT WHEEL DRIVE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION VALVE BODY RECONDITIONING, DTCS P0741, P0742, P0757, P842, HARSH SHIFTS OR SLIPS
TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN
Reference Number(s): 08-07-30-002A, Date of Issue: March 12, 2008
Affected Model(s): 2001-2005 Buick LeSabre, Park Avenue; 2002-2007 Buick Rendezvous, Rendezvous AWD; 2005-2007 Buick Terraza, Terraza EXT, Terraza 4WD; 2005-2008 Buick Allure (Canada Only), LaCrosse; 2006-2008 Lucerne; 2001 Chevrolet Lumina; 2001-2005 Chevrolet Venture, Venture EXT, Venture 4WD; 2001-2007 Chevrolet Monte Carlo; 2001-2008 Chevrolet Impala, Lumina (Export Only); 2005-2008 Chevrolet Uplander, Uplander EXT, Uplander 4WD; 2001-2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue; 2001-2003 Oldsmobile Silhouette, Silhouette EXT; 2004 Oldsmobile Silhouette EXT; 2001-2005 Pontiac Montana, Montana EXT; 2001-2005 Pontiac Aztek, Aztek AWD, Bonneville; 2001-2008 Pontiac Grand Prix; 2002-2005 Pontiac Montana 4WD; 2005-2006 Pontiac Montana SV6 (AWD); 2005-2008 Pontiac Montana SV6, Montana SV6 EXT; 2005-2006 Saturn Relay, Relay AWD; 2005-2007 Saturn Relay EXT; with Hydra-Matic® 4T65-E (RPOs - MN7, M15, M76) Automatic Transmission
Supercedes: This bulletin is being updated to include Related Service Document information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 08-07-30-002 (Section 07 -- Transmission/Transaxle).
SERVICE INFORMATION
The following new service information will aid technicians in providing easy to follow valve body reconditioning instructions and new illustrations to simplify reassembly of the valve body.
Related Service Document
Corporate Bulletin Number 02-07-30-013 : Incorrect Transmission Shifts, Poor Engine Performance, Harsh 1-2 Upshifts, Slips 1st and Reverse, Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) Stuck Off/On, DTCs P0757, P0741, P0742, P0730, P0756.
IMPORTANT: If valve body cleaning is not required, DO NOT disassemble bores unless it is necessary to verify movement of valves.
Inspection Procedure
Using the exploded views in this bulletin, inspect each bore for freedom of valve(s) movement and evidence of debris. Pay particular attention to those valves related to the customer's concern.
Verify movement of the valves in their normal installed position. Valves may become restricted during removal or installation. This is normal due to small tolerances between the valves and bores.
If a valve is restricted and cannot be corrected by cleaning the valve and bore, replace the valve body. Describe the restricted valve on the repair order.
NOTE: Be sure all solenoids are installed with the electrical connectors facing the non-machined (cast) side of the valve body. Otherwise, the solenoids will bind against the transmission case as the valve body bolts are tightened and damage may occur.
Disassembly/Reassembly
If a valve is restricted by a metal burr from machining that bore, remove the valve and burr, then inspect movement in the valve's normal position. If no other debris or restrictions are found, reassemble the valve body and install in the transmission.
If the valve body has been contaminated with debris from another transmission component failure, disassemble all bores for complete cleaning of all valve body components. If possible, keep individual bore parts separated for ease of reassembly. Use the following illustrations in this bulletin for a positive identification and location of individual parts:
Left Side Control Valve Body Assembly
Right Side Control Valve Body Assembly
Control Valve Body Assembly Chart, Valve Springs and Bore Plugs
CAUTION: Use appropriate eye protection when cleaning the valve body to prevent injury.
Using GM Brake Clean, or equivalent, in a safe and clean environment (clean aluminum pan) clean the valve body and dry it with compressed air.
Clean individual valve body components with GM Brake Clean, or equivalent. Coat each valve with clean ATF and reassemble in each bore. Check each valve for free movement during assembly of each bore.
Fig. 1: View Of Left Side Control Valve Body Assembly
GM2021845
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Callouts For Previous Graphic
Call Out Number Description
301 Control Valve Body (Machined)
302 Line Boost Valve And Bushing Retainer
303 Line Boost Valve Bore Plug
304 Line Boost Valve
309 Reverse Boost Valve Bushing
310 Reverse Boost Valve
311 Pressure Regulator Valve Spring Outer
312 Pressure Regulator Valve Inner Spring
313 Pressure Regulator Valve
314 1-2, 3-4 Shift Solenoid Valve Retainer
Pressure Control Solenoid Valve Retainer
TCC PWM Solenoid Valve Retainer
TCC Regulator Apply Valve Bore Plug Retainer
315 1-2, 3-4 Shift Solenoid Assembly
317 1-2 Shift Valve Spring
318 1-2 Shift Valve
320 Torque Signal Regulator Valve Spring
321 Torque Signal Regulator Valve
322 Pressure Control Solenoid Valve Assembly
323 Line Pressure Relief Valve Spring
324 Line Pressure Relief Valve
325 Line Pressure Relief Valve Spring Retainer
326 TCC Regulator Apply Valve Spring
327 TCC Regulator Apply Valve
329 TCC Regulator Apply Valve Bore Plug
334 TCC PWM Solenoid Valve Assembly
335 TCC Control Valve
336 TCC Control Valve Spring
Fig. 2: View Of Right Side Control Valve Body Assembly
GM2021850
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Callouts For Previous Graphic
Call Out Number Description
301 Control Valve Body (Machined)
314 1-2, 3-4 Accumulator Valve Retainer
4-3 Manual Downshift Valve Retainer
2-3 Shift Solenoid Valve Retainer
315 1-2, 3-4 Shift Solenoid Valve Assembly
339 1-2 Accumulator Valve Bore Plug
340 3-4 Accumulator Valve Spring
341 3-4 Accumulator Valve
342 2-3 Accumulator Valve Bushing
343 2-3 Accumulator Valve Bore Plug
344 2-3 Accumulator Valve
345 2-3 Accumulator Valve Bushing
346 2-3 Accumulator Valve Spring
350 1-2 Accumulator Valve
351 1-2 Accumulator Valve Spring
353 3-2 Manual Downshift Valve Retainer
354 3-2 Manual Downshift Valve Bore Plug
355 3-2 Manual Downshift Valve Spring
356 3-2 Manual Downshift Valve
357 2-3 Shift Valve
359 4-3 Manual Downshift Valve Bore Plug
360 4-3 Manual Downshift Valve
361 4-3 Manual Downshift Valve Spring
362 3-4 Shift Valve
363 Reverse Servo Boost Valve Bore Pin
Forward Servo Boost Valve Bore Pin
366 Reverse Servo Boost Valve Spring
Forward Servo Boost Valve Spring
367 Reverse Servo Boost Valve
Forward Servo Boost Valve
385 2-3 Accumulator Valve Retainer
Fig. 3: View Of Right Side Control Valve Body Assembly (1997-2000 M.Y. Only)
GM2045364
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Callouts For Previous Graphic
Call Out Number Description
363 Reverse Servo Boost Valve Bore Pin
Forward Servo Boost Valve Bore Pin
366 Reverse Servo Boost Valve Spring
Forward Servo Boost Valve Spring
367 Reverse Servo Boost Valve
Forward Servo Boost Valve
Fig. 4: Valve Body Spring and Bore Plug Chart (Metric)
GM2021849
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 5: Valve Body Spring and Bore Plug Chart (Inch)
GM2021853
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
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wow thx
Can you replace the valve without removing the valve body? It sort of sounds like you didn't have to.
i have a 08 chevy uplander. went to pull out of my drive this morning and it made a clunk sound. now when its in drive it just revs up. 1 and 2 work. 3rd gear only works when im going around 35 mph. hope this is all it needs.
The video was really well done. Did the repair solve the problem for the car? I'm interested because it describes exactly the problem I'm having with my Chevy 07 Uplander (same as on the video). It will cost me about $300 to get a shop to make the same repair, but they asked if I could get a confirmation that the fix worked.
Yes it fixed the problem! Like new again! Just so we are on the same page I'll describe what mine was doing again.The car would down shift funny sometimes coming to a stop but not always. But when you went to take off from a stop it didn't want to go and as you gave it more gas the transmission would engage hard and for the most part be good as you drove until you slowed back down and had to start again. I had no diagnostic trouble codes and the scan tool data showed no obvious problems. I've replaced a bunch of these solenoids on GM transmissions for this problem. Fairly common. $300 for this job at a shop sounds like a good price. Feel free to give me call or text if you need any other information on this repair 770-335-0227 Don
Good luck!
70corwin Hey Don! Thanks for the quick reply. Yep, the symptoms are identical, except I don't get any funny downshifts coming to a stop (as far as I've noticed).
But about 70% of the time, when trying to take off from a stop, when I give it some gas the transmission doesn't seem to engage, or maybe pulls very, very slow and sluggish like it is in a high gear. Then it will engage hard, jerking into gear. Sometimes, instead of a hard engage, it will shudder as if it is jerking in and out of the lower gear. Knowing the tendency, I go easy on the accelerator, allowing it to engage. After that, it shifts and drives fine through all the other driving situations. No slipping or problems. The transmission shop I talked to was reluctant to assure me that the single pressure control solenoid would be the fix. It looked like your fix required only replacing the one solenoid, right?
I sure appreciate the info. Might give you a call if it's not a bother.
Big Thanks.
Yes, this is what mine is doing. But I got diag codes (not CEL but in the OBD2 read of the TCM). In particular I got a P0773
Are 2007 and 2008 Uplanders basically the same? Because my 2008 Uplander is having the same problem you described above in your reply.
Would this also make the uplander not want to shift into drive or 3rd but works in 1st and 2nd gear ?
Can you tell me the part number of the pressure controle selonoid so I get the right one, I have an 07 uplander setting around with that problem, i want to get it fixed and down the road. I have all the equipment to do the job.
I'm not the same as others here in thinking or saying it was a great vid.
To my mind it left much to be desired.
What you wanted to do was start by removing the tire, then "This is a repair that is difficult to do unless you have tools like a hydrolic jack,..." and go from there.
How did you get the axle out? I'm right in the middle of this and a guy below is claiming that you could have done so without removing the axle. Geez I don't want to do that if I don't have to.
How did you get the cover off? Can I get it off without removing the axle?
Also difficult to see were the solenoids.
How many are there, where are they,...
"Some" shift solenoids, and the pressure control solenoid is what is in your vid.
Ufortunately this was the only vid on this and I had to make some guesses.
You seem like a great mechanic but many watching are non mechanics like me who have to do repairs like this or not drive due to finances.
Try again.
It seems like this should be about 10 minutes not the buck thirty seven it is.
my 06 chevy uplander is doing the same thing will it hurt to drive it til i get the money to fix it thanks
Thanks for the video! If my van was younger, i would do this. It has over 150k miles on it 2006 3.9. It is sometimes slow engaging reverse and occasionally feels like it starts from stop in gear higher than 1st. Also, slips and screeches on upshift under WOT. I have been downshifting to first from start and letting off throttle with shift for last 30k miles now. Tough old thing keeps going! Oh, and changing filter and fluid did nothing. I towed a few vehicles heavier than van on dolly. I know that was bad! That abuse may be the reason too.
Just replaced the pressure controle selonoid, you dont have to lower the subframe or take the pan all the way off. Theirs enough room to pull the pan back far enough to get to the solenoid.
Was yours on an Uplander too? I have a lift and everything I just don't feel like taking half the van apart to change a $30 solenoid. I'm assuming you just pulled CV axle, trans mount bracket, and then tilted the pan out of the way?
@@daveh2612 yes an 07 Uplander. Only tricky part was putting the clip back in that holds the solenoid. Sounds like you have it under control so it shouldn't be a problem.
@@milesfifer171 did you remove the cv axle?
@@CRyan-iz3wr the side cover has a round opening where the axle shaft goes through, it's big enough so you dont have to pull the axle out. I had to pull mine out because theirs a seal just on the inside of the round opening of the pan that fell down so had to pull it so I had enough room to put the seal back in. So if the O ring seal stays in place no you dont have to pull the axle out.
@@milesfifer171 thank you for the reply. I think i need to do this repair on my mom's uplander. I repair just about anything but i am a little intimidated by this. If i fail the van will be stuck in my garage.
hi thanks for the information but mines(transmission) is kicking from first to second and second to third, do you know what kind of problem is? thank you, chevy uplander 2006 two wheel drive
ABut 8 hours for me at home but not as hard at it seems. Only issues is rolling round, not enough clearance unless u have a decent lift at home.
Question.. does this problem also cause the van to stall out ?? exactly what you described happens as well as stalling while stopped and while driving.
No it didn't cause the engine to stall. Sounds like you have another problem? or maybe 2 separate problems
Hey there, good video, Just wondering I found this video searching for a TCC Solenoid, is this the same thing. I have an 08 Uplander with a check engine light on, took to AutoZone and got a code for TCC solenoid Failure p0741
Thanks
Dustin
You might want to start here and check out this TSB technical service bulletin first.
ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/heavychevy396/2010-05-13_002818_P0741b.pdf
where are you at can u help me I'm a single parent trying to get life right and somebody kid stole my car and I'm having these same problems they trying to charge me 400!
I have a 2008 uplander and recently my trans stopped driving in drive and 3 1&2 still work could this be pcs issue or something bigger any help you could offer would be appreciated
+franky lara -Did you ever find out what the problem was with your transmission
I also have a Venture (same vehicle) that does this. Check for bad fuse, ground, broken or chafed wires first. If nothing then run diagnostic to check ECU computer for command signal to the solenoid. If all is good solenoid is not responding, replace all the shift solenoids and pressure control solenoid.
My van drivers no more than 30mph smh
it can be done at home
Scouring UA-cam, most crack expert mechanics for solenoid/P1811 on GM 4T65E: they replace all solenoids, central control, main wire harness (as the 10-15 yr old pigtails snap off), and side cover gasket
I had my transmission replaced and my uplander only had 80,000 km
Is there only the one solenoid?
no theres only one pressure control solenoid but theres some shift solenoids as well and they look the same
Thanks - appreciate the reply.
....damn.
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