Excellent video man, very detailed explanation. I didnt fully understand the way the TFI set up works and well now I do. Thumbs up, hope you're making money here now for your views. You deserve it for passing on the knowledge
Mine only sparked when I tried to unhook the ground cable and not when I turned the distributor what is the problem with mine do I need a new distributor because I already got a new TFI Mod
Beautiful. Great demo... I have a 96 E350 that just stopped running. Replace distributor in the ICM is only 10 months old but it was a cheaper one. Interesting that that mad is mounted to your distributor. I thought they did away with that due to heat issues. Mines in the driver side fender
Clevor thank you so much for making this video I spent a whole week pulling my hair out trying to get my car to run. So basically I've been wanting to do something with my spark plug wires I never liked how they looked under the hood I wanted them to run much cleaner to the distributor so I purchased wire separators from wild horses very nice setup and I also installed a brand new distributor cuz I was having issues when I would crank my car on my Holly dash it would show syncing then error for a second so I decided to install a new distributor with a set of cut to length wires to make a long story short I did all that and out of nowhere I was having problems with getting my car to start for a week and then tonight I came across your video and decided to give what you showed in your video a try and sure enough I found the problem it was the Holly TFI wire adapter that plugs into the Holly wire harness then to the TFI module one of the pins are not getting good contact. I probably explained too much but I just wanted you to understand just a piece of what I was dealing with and your video helped me solve it 👍💪
i kept having the ignition module go out on my 1988 f250 351. so i found a video where you can make a wiring harness and move the ignition module from the distributor over to the drivers fender. believe me. it made a big difference . the engine runs a little smoother and it also helps the module to stay cooler and away from the thermostat housing so it aint being cooked. the module has been on there for a little over 5 years with no problems.
Good day sir looking for advice working on my son's 89 f250 5.0 std new distributor, ICM, plugs, wires problem is coil only produces a single spark, so unplugged the spout, lots of spark what could cause this issue
I’d get a spark checking tool from your parts store to verify spark coming out of the distributor and see if you have any. Process of elimination… if you don’t have spark at the plugs, check at the dizzy… nothing there, it’s the dizzy. I’ve had bad distributors out of the box before. Plug wires? Pickup in the distributor? Coil? Its almost impossible to diagnose over the internet.
I have a 1990f150 straight 6. It starts hard and then once running it jerks and bucks like it is not getting fuel. It runs good at higher rpms for about 20 miles then shuts down . I've replaced fuel filter, fuel relay,tps , ignition coil, plugs and cap. Any idea what it could be
You can tell a lot about how it’s running by pulling a plug again…. Really black it’s rich and you have a fuel problem…. Not much black at all it’s likely lean and not enough fuel…
@@BMF_Garage would the pick up coil cause it to start hard and cut off ? It's using more fuel than normal and when it starts acting up I have no throttle response. When I shut it off and restart it ,it will run ok but then it does the same thing again
Culd you tell my how manualy fire my coil with out ignition module? I have gm distributor with induction triger and 4 pin gm ignition module on a singel e core type ignition coil. I wuld like to have bouth positive and negative grounding similar to waste spark. Also I have problem with my ignition coil if I try to bypass curent to coil from R terminal starter selenoid fuse pops engin wont fire coil not working I do not know is the 4pin ignition module polarity sensitive ore not aperantly I have also voltage regulator inside the dash board how shuld I adres this problem? Because in cold weather I need that fully 12v my car has starting problems. And I like the idea of haveing dual ignition with amplifiers .
Firing a coil manually requires you to connect and disconnect 12v to the coil. Just dont leave it connected. I usually keep the negative connected to the coil and then just briefly tap the positive to the battery.
Great video thank you!!! I have an 89 f150 5.0 and have been chasing a lot of problems and got it finally Down to the pip in the distributor. I replaced it yesterday with a oreilys distributor and it ran great for 15 mins and then started running like crap and backfiring. Let it cool down for about 30 mins or so and it ran fine for another 5 mins until it got hot again, Im assuming a bad /cheap distributor but I'm going to test it like this to make sure .
@@BMF_Garage yeah, I went with Oreilys cause of the lifetime warranty and I wouldn't have to deal with shipping it back. The parts now are so cheap and just cause it's new doesn't mean it's good. Hopefully, the one I get today last me longer than a day. I mite try and put some heat shield over the radiator hose to help idk, thanks again
Great explanation, which wires are the power in and the signal out of the distributor though? I did all that and I don’t have coil or injectors firing. Changed the module and still nothing. How do I check the pip signal? Also, my fuel pump is running constantly…. Any ideas? Thanks!
I would start with examining the ecu. The ground signals come from there and there are a few captivities inside the ecu that can go bad causing the issues you’re having
@@BMF_Garage Thanks for the reply, I'm pulling the spout and trying that tomorrow but I think I lost my pip signal. That's why it wont fire the coil or the injectors, eec thinks the key is on and the engine isn't turning over. My thoughts at 12.48 am, lol!! I think I will pull the eec and open it up.. but to fix it...hmmm. Where I am in this rust belt, there is no and I mean NO 80's cars in the junkyard. So either I order a computer from somewhere in the States or try to fix this one. (or drop in a 5.0 lol!)
@@BMF_Garage Good and bad news..I replaced the pick up in the distributor with one out of an old 351 distributor and with the original 3.8 module that I originally thought was bad, I got fire!! Bad news is, the fuel pump is running all the time and the injectors aren't firing. I dumped some gas down the throat and it fired right up and idled smooth. So...I'm pulling the eec like you said. I'll open it up and look for...green corrosion or what exactly? (or is it, "you'll know it when you see it" lol!) Thanks so much for the help!!
So when I turn the distributor, I get spark but not every time, yours is much stronger and consistent, ignition module makes no difference and coil measured ok, can the pickup go half bad? Cuz that’s what it seems like for me
Igniter vs Points distributor vs HEI I have a 1990 Lincoln Town with the Windsor V8. Looking for tune-up advice, how to get the best fuel efficiency. upgrading does sound like less maintenance but questioning ROI Return On Investment? btw the car has sat for 8 years and running well on warm days. but if I don't let it warm up 20* F or colder and try to drive off after 10 min it seems rough until it gets to operating temp. also after 45 to 1hr idle to op temp. it will kill the motor most of the time when I change gears R or D. I haven't noticed during warmer days dying during gear change but I have only had it for three weeks. ???
Doesn't the msd totally eliminate the need for the tfi ??? MSD Ignition is a stand alone unit . wires that originally go to the coil go into the msd then from the msd out to the coil eliminating the tfi. correct me if I am wrong please. or is that only for a carbureted set up ?
Carb only unless you get an msd distributor. If you just have the spark box, you still need factory tfi. If you did the msd billet distributor and msd box, you don’t need tfi
Hi, I have a intermittent no spark situation i was wondering if you had any insight. My 89 f250 460 loses spark randomly but will regain spark with the tfi unplugged and replugged or the key cycled off and on. With that said I have replaced the ignition switch, tested a known good coil and tfi off of my other truck and replaced the distributor with a brand new with new pip unit which has had no effect, It has also not produced any codes. The truck has spark initially, it stumps me as to how disconnecting the tfi or cycling the key regains it. When the truck loses spark i have tried unplugging the spout which has not effect and the disconncting the ecm which has no effect, but as soon as I cycle the key or unplug and replug the tfi spark is restored. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Sounds like tfi module is going bad or maybe the output from the ecu. I’d start by opening the ecu up and seeing if there are any signs of burnt circuits on the board or if any of the capacitors are going bad. They get a green fuzzy looking material coming out of them when they go bad. If you don’t find any issues with the ecu, I’d replace the tfi. It could be that it’s old and overheating.
Hey Man, so I'm testing for spark the way you showed and at one point everything was working as it should but somehow I lost Ground I'm assuming and now the only time I get ground is if I rub the distributor on the engine but that's only for a fraction of a second. I'm not getting constant ground. Any ideas what could have happened?
Could be a lose ground wire. There should be a thick wire attached to the block from the chassis and also one attached to the drivers side firewall by the valve cover that grounds all the engine stuff.
Would a bad TFI cause a “pulsing” like spark (almost like an arcing sound) coming from your coil wire to the distributor with the key in the “on” position but not while the engine turning over? Sorry if that’s confusing
@@BMF_Garage ok thanks. My symptoms are running rich with a backfire pinging, bad idle and no power. If I unplug my MAP sensor it clears up those symptoms. Real weird. This is on a 96 F53 chassis 7.5l
Could the PIP sensor cause a slight hesitation under WOT above 3k rpm? My car does this and people on the mustang forums have suggested it could be the TFI module or the PIP. It’s only under WOT above 3k. Cold or HOT. Seems to me by watching your test the spark plugs are either fireing or there not off the TFI and PIP.
Nathan Grammar Well it’s a 88 and it’s the original Distributor. Been trying to hunt down a motorcraft distributor. Tried a auto parts store one and the car ran like garbage. Tried a aftermarket TFI and car ran pretty bad has well. So yea your defenitly correct the mustangs like the motorcraft stuff.
Gotcha. Yeah you can’t skimp on the tfi or pip. I’ve had plenty of bad ones right out the box. With that much age on a factory one, it’s likely going to start giving you issues soon, but it’s a tough part to get a good replacement for
So I did this test when I spun it the fuel pump will run if I don't disable it and the fuel injectors will click but I get no spark from my coil spark plugs. I have 12 v to the coil wire with key on, I've tried two different distributors and a different coil what could be causing the no spark in run position? I tried replacing the ignition switch as well. I guess it could be bad out of the box
Very likely. I had that happen with two autozone distributors. Also check that you have constant 12v positive on the positive wire at all times. The negative wire is the trigger wire
Great video. I was looking into replacing this but after seeing how it works I don't think this is my issue. I have a 95 mustang with 302. After I removed converters, and added 75 mm tb and cai I've had a problem only after the car is really hot. When I go to restart it, it can't keep idle unless I feather gas. I let it sit for 25 min and it starts with no problem. It.seems like it's heat related . Will.never happen unless I been driving for a long time and shut it off. I've replaced fuel pump, fuel filter thinking it was getting tired but still does it.no codes. Any ideas? Never left me stranded . I just sit for 25 mins and it fires up no problem
@@BMF_Garage I have not. Car did a lot of sitting . I bought it last year. It's a 95 with 40k miles. It was just odd that it happend as soon as I put a catless x pipe on. Only other thing I'm thinking is the x pipe doesn't fit 100 percent. It hit / bent the o2 sensor . But I don't have obd1 scanner to check for activity
Great info! (New sub here) I'm guessing you could do this all without removing the distributor as well, and just crank the motor over? I guess it would be hard to hear the injectors, but a noid would suffice?
Are genuine Motorcraft distributors available anymore? I have a '95 GT and I am going on my 3rd "parts store" distributor in just one year...so frustrating.
I’ve seen some of the 351w dizzys with the remote tfi... it seems to last longer because it’s away from the heat. I actually swapped this harness over from the remote mount tfi... didn’t have anywhere to mount the remote unit that would look good
The ecu could be the culprit. If you carefully pull it out of the passenger kick panel and take the front cover off… look for any electrical components that have green ish fuzzy buildup on them… bad or corroded parts can cause this. Typical In these old things.
I have a 1984 Lincoln. I figured out that the difference between those distributors and the 86 and up ones is the tone ring under the rotor is different. 84 has one wider gapped notch in it and the 86 are all the same gap. So even though a distributor from a 1989 will work in a 1984 car, it wont be able to control spark timing advance and will be at a fixed position at all times.
@@BMF_Garage i have an 89 and an 84. The 89 distributor is readily available at the store and on Ebay. The 84 distributor is hard to find and costs more. The only difference is the tone ring
I just installed a 408 in my 91 Foxbody and it will start right up, run smooth for about 15 minutes, then die suddenly. I will go to restart, it will crank and crank, but won't fire up. I smell fuel in the intake area strongly when this happens, but no leaks at all. I got spark and fuel. I can come out the next morning as the fuel probably evaporates and the car will start right up, but give the same problem 15 minutes later. Any help would be great. Thanks!
@@BMF_Garage I’m hAving the same issue too , my 94 f350 with a 460, dies after 5 mins of warming up as it starts to lose spark. Plugs turn out black and tested fuel pressure at 32-35 at idle. I replaced dizzy (FD13 spectra), plugs, wires, ignition coil, fender mounted black tfi module, fuel pressure regulator, map sensor. Don’t know what else could be wrong?
When installing the distributor from say a TDC method.. shouldn't the smallest tooth on the inside of the distributor be right at or close to the magnet located on the black pointer inside the distributor? Still learning.. be gentle lol. EDIT: Because if so... my 'littlest tooth' is not any more. I had it out (DISTRO) after watching this video once before.. but.. it rained. I had to scrap the test. ... But not before noticing the magnet issue?.. or no? The magnet is 'catching' a different one now not the smallest "tooth" anymore. Anyone have a clue? Thanks.
Don’t worry so much about the little magnet. Focus on the rotor as it’s easier to see and has the same relative position. When setting at TDC, you’re setting the rotor to line up with the pickup on the cap for cylinder number one on the compression stroke. I always take the spark plug out and put my finger over the hole. When it forces your finger off, that’s indicative of the exhaust valve being shut and should be on the compression stroke. I also like to take the valve cover off to double check both intake and exhaust valve are closed. Once you have the engine set on TDC #1, then stab the distributor and line the rotor up to point at the pickup for cylinder number one. Then you’re set on TDC. If you happen to set the engine at TDC on the exhaust stroke it’ll run but poorly. Might have to try it twice to get it right.
You are awesome bro!! Thanks! I thought I heard you say that later in the video... but.. I just wasn't sure so I felt dumb after asking and deleted my question :( ...RE-POST OF said QUESTION: @Clevor BMF same thing if the pick up is bad, right?
@@BMF_Garage I do have it grounded I even tried a new distributor connected the module grounded the body I do get spark but no injectors clicking and no pump turning on, what I notice it's that I don't get a ground from the rack at the fuel pump rely to power the fuel pumps
If your injectors or pump don’t turn on, you need to take out the ecu and look for corroded or bad capacitors on the circuit board. Green fuzzy goo means they are bad or sometimes they even come off the board
Most likely not. Would probably not run. Rice condition is likely and air line leaking or broken that’s giving bad vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator… bad regulator… or bad O2 sensors.
You left out an important tip about removing the distributor gear. Theres 15 teeth on it....if you look at the teeth & the roll pins youll notice one pin is inline with a tooth and on the other side the pin is between 2 teeth...Placement is paramount in certain engines as once you set the distributor 10* one will be 12* off from obtaining proper SEFI synchronization due to being 12* off with the halls effect module ..Do you have a thrustplate behind the camgear????Ask the camshaft manufacturer why 10* is important in EFI EEC applications.....Youll be enlightened. Take care and awesome info about the testing.....
I've never worried about the position of the gear because I always check and reset my timing when I take the dizzy out. Just good practice. Thanks for watching!
If you prefer, yes. I like this way because I don’t have to have two people or try to set my meter up and watch while I crank. All depends on what resources, experience and tools you have.
Can you help me with my problem. Change motor from my 90 f150, simple hook and play run for a little over a minute cranks but no fire from coil. Over a week I've replaced everything on my truck. Computer, distributor, coil,iac,tps,different wiring harness knock sensor and still no spark.
@@BMF_Garage yeah voltage is good, coil is good. Have power through the harness and on #4 and #3 on the distributor has power . Then while trying to crank no power to the 6,5,3
@@BMF_Garage I went to another site for testing the tfi connection, if I'm correct the harness the numbers count down 654321 6 being at the top right.. with it unplug from the tfi did the not start test no power to any terminal. Key on try to start with wire off the starter relay, power to #5 #3 no power to the #4
The negative is the one that pulses, not the hot. There are some capacitors in the ecu that control that. If you’re not getting the pulse on the ground, open the ecu up and make sure the three capacities are in good shape... no green corrosion or broken off the board. The pulse comes off the pickup in the distributor so if the ecu is good, then check the pickup. This requires removing the distributor to change.
False. This test shows you how to test for spark without having to crank the vehicle. It also tests injector pulses. It verifies your tfi is functioning and giving pulses to run the engine.
![1988 Ford F150 EEC-IV , No Spark [Good Ignition Coil, Module and Distributor Pick-up]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/6UPe5f1s2ak/mqdefault.jpg)
![1988 Ford F150 EEC-IV , No Spark [Good Ignition Coil, Module and Distributor Pick-up]](/img/tr.png)
First.👍🤙👊
Excellent video man, very detailed explanation. I didnt fully understand the way the TFI set up works and well now I do. Thumbs up, hope you're making money here now for your views. You deserve it for passing on the knowledge
Hell yes, thank you! 🤘🏻
Mine has a weak spark..and i just notice the shaft has a little play..do i need new distributor? Thanks for the video.
Wouldn’t hurt. The pickup inside the distributor can go bad
Mine only sparked when I tried to unhook the ground cable and not when I turned the distributor what is the problem with mine do I need a new distributor because I already got a new TFI Mod
Could be the coil or the pickup in the distributor….
Beautiful.
Great demo... I have a 96 E350 that just stopped running. Replace distributor in the ICM is only 10 months old but it was a cheaper one. Interesting that that mad is mounted to your distributor. I thought they did away with that due to heat issues. Mines in the driver side fender
Clevor thank you so much for making this video I spent a whole week pulling my hair out trying to get my car to run. So basically I've been wanting to do something with my spark plug wires I never liked how they looked under the hood I wanted them to run much cleaner to the distributor so I purchased wire separators from wild horses very nice setup and I also installed a brand new distributor cuz I was having issues when I would crank my car on my Holly dash it would show syncing then error for a second so I decided to install a new distributor with a set of cut to length wires to make a long story short I did all that and out of nowhere I was having problems with getting my car to start for a week and then tonight I came across your video and decided to give what you showed in your video a try and sure enough I found the problem it was the Holly TFI wire adapter that plugs into the Holly wire harness then to the TFI module one of the pins are not getting good contact. I probably explained too much but I just wanted you to understand just a piece of what I was dealing with and your video helped me solve it 👍💪
Hell yes I’m glad it was helpful!!!
i kept having the ignition module go out on my 1988 f250 351. so i found a video where you can make a wiring harness and move the ignition module from the distributor over to the drivers fender. believe me. it made a big difference . the engine runs a little smoother and it also helps the module to stay cooler and away from the thermostat housing so it aint being cooked. the module has been on there for a little over 5 years with no problems.
That’s good info!
Thanks for the help, im working a ford tempo ´94 and i dont have spark... but now i underestand the tfi module. Saludos desde Ecuador.
Thanks 🙏
Good day sir looking for advice working on my son's 89 f250 5.0 std new distributor, ICM, plugs, wires problem is coil only produces a single spark, so unplugged the spout, lots of spark what could cause this issue
I’d get a spark checking tool from your parts store to verify spark coming out of the distributor and see if you have any. Process of elimination… if you don’t have spark at the plugs, check at the dizzy… nothing there, it’s the dizzy. I’ve had bad distributors out of the box before. Plug wires? Pickup in the distributor? Coil? Its almost impossible to diagnose over the internet.
I have a 1990f150 straight 6. It starts hard and then once running it jerks and bucks like it is not getting fuel. It runs good at higher rpms for about 20 miles then shuts down . I've replaced fuel filter, fuel relay,tps , ignition coil, plugs and cap. Any idea what it could be
Have you checked the plugs since replacing them to see what the fueling looks like? Carb or efi?
@@BMF_Garage no I haven't checked them since I replaced them two weeks ago
The old ones were really bad . Rusty and corroded . No oil or carbon build up .
You can tell a lot about how it’s running by pulling a plug again…. Really black it’s rich and you have a fuel problem…. Not much black at all it’s likely lean and not enough fuel…
@@BMF_Garage would the pick up coil cause it to start hard and cut off ? It's using more fuel than normal and when it starts acting up I have no throttle response. When I shut it off and restart it ,it will run ok but then it does the same thing again
This was very helpful it helped me get my LX running today thank you for the input.
That’s good to hear!
Culd you tell my how manualy fire my coil with out ignition module?
I have gm distributor with induction triger and 4 pin gm ignition module on a singel e core type ignition coil.
I wuld like to have bouth positive and negative grounding similar to waste spark.
Also I have problem with my ignition coil if I try to bypass curent to coil from R terminal starter selenoid fuse pops engin wont fire coil not working I do not know is the 4pin ignition module polarity sensitive ore not aperantly I have also voltage regulator inside the dash board how shuld I adres this problem?
Because in cold weather I need that fully 12v my car has starting problems.
And I like the idea of haveing dual ignition with amplifiers .
Firing a coil manually requires you to connect and disconnect 12v to the coil. Just dont leave it connected. I usually keep the negative connected to the coil and then just briefly tap the positive to the battery.
Great video thank you!!! I have an 89 f150 5.0 and have been chasing a lot of problems and got it finally Down to the pip in the distributor. I replaced it yesterday with a oreilys distributor and it ran great for 15 mins and then started running like crap and backfiring. Let it cool down for about 30 mins or so and it ran fine for another 5 mins until it got hot again, Im assuming a bad /cheap distributor but I'm going to test it like this to make sure .
If it’s heat related, it’s the tfi. They cut out when they get too hot. I usually do the distributors off of rock auto.
@@BMF_Garage yeah, I went with Oreilys cause of the lifetime warranty and I wouldn't have to deal with shipping it back. The parts now are so cheap and just cause it's new doesn't mean it's good. Hopefully, the one I get today last me longer than a day. I mite try and put some heat shield over the radiator hose to help idk, thanks again
Great explanation, which wires are the power in and the signal out of the distributor though? I did all that and I don’t have coil or injectors firing. Changed the module and still nothing. How do I check the pip signal?
Also, my fuel pump is running constantly….
Any ideas? Thanks!
I would start with examining the ecu. The ground signals come from there and there are a few captivities inside the ecu that can go bad causing the issues you’re having
@@BMF_Garage Thanks for the reply, I'm pulling the spout and trying that tomorrow but I think I lost my pip signal. That's why it wont fire the coil or the injectors, eec thinks the key is on and the engine isn't turning over. My thoughts at 12.48 am, lol!!
I think I will pull the eec and open it up.. but to fix it...hmmm. Where I am in this rust belt, there is no and I mean NO 80's cars in the junkyard. So either I order a computer from somewhere in the States or try to fix this one. (or drop in a 5.0 lol!)
Good luck!
@@BMF_Garage Good and bad news..I replaced the pick up in the distributor with one out of an old 351 distributor and with the original 3.8 module that I originally thought was bad, I got fire!! Bad news is, the fuel pump is running all the time and the injectors aren't firing. I dumped some gas down the throat and it fired right up and idled smooth.
So...I'm pulling the eec like you said.
I'll open it up and look for...green corrosion or what exactly? (or is it, "you'll know it when you see it" lol!)
Thanks so much for the help!!
@@BMF_Garage Got the computer out, doesn't smell burnt and everything is clean. What am I looking for?
So when I turn the distributor, I get spark but not every time, yours is much stronger and consistent, ignition module makes no difference and coil measured ok, can the pickup go half bad? Cuz that’s what it seems like for me
Bad pickup could definitely cause this
That was great trouble shooting information brother thanks ...I would love to see more videos like this ...this was very helpful
Thanks man, appreciate that!
Thanks for the insight of a possible fix for a no spark.
Could you tell me about a faint spark from coil could possibly be?
New sub.
faint or weak spark is usually due to a bad coil, tfi module or both. Also could be the pickup in the distributor if that's weak.
Can the tfi and the pickup coil cause two of the cylinders to fire weak?
It could but I wouldn’t imagine it would be the same two cylinders every time…
Igniter vs Points distributor vs HEI
I have a 1990 Lincoln Town with the Windsor V8. Looking for tune-up advice, how to get the best fuel efficiency. upgrading does sound like less maintenance but questioning ROI Return On Investment? btw the car has sat for 8 years and running well on warm days. but if I don't let it warm up 20* F or colder and try to drive off after 10 min it seems rough until it gets to operating temp. also after 45 to 1hr idle to op temp. it will kill the motor most of the time when I change gears R or D. I haven't noticed during warmer days dying during gear change but I have only had it for three weeks. ???
Sounds like your tfi module is going bad. It’s what transfers spark. Also would cause the cutting off issue after a while cause it overheats
Doesn't the msd totally eliminate the need for the tfi ??? MSD Ignition is a stand alone unit . wires that originally go to the coil go into the msd then from the msd out to the coil eliminating the tfi. correct me if I am wrong please. or is that only for a carbureted set up ?
Carb only unless you get an msd distributor. If you just have the spark box, you still need factory tfi. If you did the msd billet distributor and msd box, you don’t need tfi
Thank you for making this video! Going to try this procedure out tonight on a buddy's car much appreciated!
🤘🏻🤘🏻🤘🏻
Is it possible to test the tfi while the distributor is on the car?
There are a few tfi module testers you can buy, but there’s not any good ways that I know of…
Ok thanks 🙏
You bet!
Hi, I have a intermittent no spark situation i was wondering if you had any insight. My 89 f250 460 loses spark randomly but will regain spark with the tfi unplugged and replugged or the key cycled off and on. With that said I have replaced the ignition switch, tested a known good coil and tfi off of my other truck and replaced the distributor with a brand new with new pip unit which has had no effect, It has also not produced any codes. The truck has spark initially, it stumps me as to how disconnecting the tfi or cycling the key regains it. When the truck loses spark i have tried unplugging the spout which has not effect and the disconncting the ecm which has no effect, but as soon as I cycle the key or unplug and replug the tfi spark is restored. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Sounds like tfi module is going bad or maybe the output from the ecu. I’d start by opening the ecu up and seeing if there are any signs of burnt circuits on the board or if any of the capacitors are going bad. They get a green fuzzy looking material coming out of them when they go bad. If you don’t find any issues with the ecu, I’d replace the tfi. It could be that it’s old and overheating.
I just want to say thank you for this video it help me fix my car I find out what was wrong with it I'm back in the road 👍
Hell yes, thank you!
Hey Man, so I'm testing for spark the way you showed and at one point everything was working as it should but somehow I lost Ground I'm assuming and now the only time I get ground is if I rub the distributor on the engine but that's only for a fraction of a second. I'm not getting constant ground. Any ideas what could have happened?
Could be a lose ground wire. There should be a thick wire attached to the block from the chassis and also one attached to the drivers side firewall by the valve cover that grounds all the engine stuff.
@@BMF_Garage I'll look into it. I appreciate you!
Good luck!
Great video and tip to test the distributor. I was able to isolate my issue on my 86 SVO. Thanks
Hell yeah, glad it helped! 🤘🏻
Is there any way for me to get in contact with you I have a few questions
Links to all my social media are in the video description
Would a bad TFI cause a “pulsing” like spark (almost like an arcing sound) coming from your coil wire to the distributor with the key in the “on” position but not while the engine turning over? Sorry if that’s confusing
Not likely… sounds more like a wire is shorting out by your description…
@@BMF_Garage ok thanks. My symptoms are running rich with a backfire pinging, bad idle and no power. If I unplug my MAP sensor it clears up those symptoms. Real weird. This is on a 96 F53 chassis 7.5l
Could the PIP sensor cause a slight hesitation under WOT above 3k rpm?
My car does this and people on the mustang forums have suggested it could be the TFI module or the PIP.
It’s only under WOT above 3k. Cold or HOT.
Seems to me by watching your test the spark plugs are either fireing or there not off the TFI and PIP.
How old are the parts you have? If they are old or have never been replaced to your knowledge, I’d replace them
Nathan Grammar
Well it’s a 88 and it’s the original Distributor. Been trying to hunt down a motorcraft distributor.
Tried a auto parts store one and the car ran like garbage.
Tried a aftermarket TFI and car ran pretty bad has well.
So yea your defenitly correct the mustangs like the motorcraft stuff.
Gotcha. Yeah you can’t skimp on the tfi or pip. I’ve had plenty of bad ones right out the box. With that much age on a factory one, it’s likely going to start giving you issues soon, but it’s a tough part to get a good replacement for
just did the spark/injector test and wasn't getting consistent spark to the plug.. wire is a foot long testing to 6.5k resistance
Look up how many ohms per foot that brand is supposed to have.. that will tell you a lot. Seems high to me
Is it possible that my tfi module is only firing one injector? I hear mine clicking but for every 3 or so sparks I only hear one injector
Injectors are batch fired normally
Love your channel you give so much useful information she is gonna be a grown pounder.
Appreciate that brother
Clevor BMF no thank you for all your help and jumping in my live stream I appreciate all that you have done for me.🙏🏻
So I did this test when I spun it the fuel pump will run if I don't disable it and the fuel injectors will click but I get no spark from my coil spark plugs. I have 12 v to the coil wire with key on, I've tried two different distributors and a different coil what could be causing the no spark in run position? I tried replacing the ignition switch as well. I guess it could be bad out of the box
The signal wire for aural goes through the distributor and ignition switch so it’s got to be one of those...
Whats aurual? And ty for the reply
A typo lol the signal wire for those goes through both
Well I tried two brand new distributors, so I'm assuming maybe I just got a bad parts store ignition switch out of the box
Very likely. I had that happen with two autozone distributors. Also check that you have constant 12v positive on the positive wire at all times. The negative wire is the trigger wire
Great video. I was looking into replacing this but after seeing how it works I don't think this is my issue. I have a 95 mustang with 302. After I removed converters, and added 75 mm tb and cai I've had a problem only after the car is really hot. When I go to restart it, it can't keep idle unless I feather gas. I let it sit for 25 min and it starts with no problem. It.seems like it's heat related . Will.never happen unless I been driving for a long time and shut it off. I've replaced fuel pump, fuel filter thinking it was getting tired but still does it.no codes. Any ideas? Never left me stranded . I just sit for 25 mins and it fires up no problem
Kind of sounds like the tfi module is getting too hot. Have you ever replaced it?
@@BMF_Garage I have not. Car did a lot of sitting . I bought it last year. It's a 95 with 40k miles. It was just odd that it happend as soon as I put a catless x pipe on. Only other thing I'm thinking is the x pipe doesn't fit 100 percent. It hit / bent the o2 sensor . But I don't have obd1 scanner to check for activity
The o2 sensor would cause a rich or lean effect and could definitely be part of the problem. Have you pulled a spark plug to see what they look like?
No. Good weather is here. Need to start working on her .
Wouldn't I throw a check engine light if the communication was broken between o2 sensor and computer ?
TFI stands for thin film ignition. and it's a crappy ignition system. as electronic ignition systems go.
I'm on my 3rd tfi now LOL its ford this time hopefully this one last, you think distributor could be going bad if they keep failing?
Typically just cheap electronics. They get hot generating so much spark. I use an msd box to take away the heat from the tfi module
@@BMF_Garage okay i should hook up my msd box then! Would help
@@BMF_Garage and ford changed the part number for the foxbody TFI's they made a new one i guess they heard are calls for help! Lol
Haha 😂
It puts the spark load on the msd box not the tfi so it definitely helps!
Great info! (New sub here) I'm guessing you could do this all without removing the distributor as well, and just crank the motor over? I guess it would be hard to hear the injectors, but a noid would suffice?
Yeah the noise is why I don’t leave it in the car...
What an excellent video man.
Thank you 🤘🏻
Are genuine Motorcraft distributors available anymore? I have a '95 GT and I am going on my 3rd "parts store" distributor in just one year...so frustrating.
I haven’t been able to find them anywhere, but I use the cheaper one from Rock auto and they tend to last longer
@@BMF_Garage thanks - just ordered one
Good deal 👍🏽
Cardone lifetime
Good video, dude
Thank you 🙏
Not sure I've seen that test before. Very cool! Would you suggest remote mounting the TFI module?
Possibly? But it’s easier to access on the dizzy
@@BMF_Garage oh I know, was just wondering what your opinion is on relocating it.
I’ve seen some of the 351w dizzys with the remote tfi... it seems to last longer because it’s away from the heat. I actually swapped this harness over from the remote mount tfi... didn’t have anywhere to mount the remote unit that would look good
@@BMF_Garage gotcha, the heat is what I was thinking of. Thanks for replying!
Hey guys if you can help me out I replaced my distributor with a good one good coil still no spark
The ecu could be the culprit. If you carefully pull it out of the passenger kick panel and take the front cover off… look for any electrical components that have green ish fuzzy buildup on them… bad or corroded parts can cause this. Typical
In these old things.
I like your radiator cap I did the same to mine
Good info. I’ve got a 351w turbo in a ‘91 fox body. I’m always working on it. I feel your pain lol.
Lol thanks 🙏
I have a 1984 Lincoln. I figured out that the difference between those distributors and the 86 and up ones is the tone ring under the rotor is different. 84 has one wider gapped notch in it and the 86 are all the same gap. So even though a distributor from a 1989 will work in a 1984 car, it wont be able to control spark timing advance and will be at a fixed position at all times.
That’s good to know!
@@BMF_Garage i have an 89 and an 84. The 89 distributor is readily available at the store and on Ebay. The 84 distributor is hard to find and costs more. The only difference is the tone ring
Rock auto always comes through for me on tough to find parts
I just installed a 408 in my 91 Foxbody and it will start right up, run smooth for about 15 minutes, then die suddenly. I will go to restart, it will crank and crank, but won't fire up. I smell fuel in the intake area strongly when this happens, but no leaks at all. I got spark and fuel. I can come out the next morning as the fuel probably evaporates and the car will start right up, but give the same problem 15 minutes later. Any help would be great. Thanks!
Sounds more like an over fuel or enrichment issue than an ignition issue to me. Have you pulled a few spark plugs to see if they are fouled?
@@BMF_Garage no not yet, I have a bbk regulator, wondering if it is bad, when I pull the vacuum line off, no fuel is coming out at all.
@@BMF_Garage fuel pressure is at 37 currently and 10 degrees timing.
Definitely sounds fuel related. Check plugs abs see what they look like
@@BMF_Garage I’m hAving the same issue too , my 94 f350 with a 460, dies after 5 mins of warming up as it starts to lose spark. Plugs turn out black and tested fuel pressure at 32-35 at idle. I replaced dizzy (FD13 spectra), plugs, wires, ignition coil, fender mounted black tfi module, fuel pressure regulator, map sensor. Don’t know what else could be wrong?
When installing the distributor from say a TDC method.. shouldn't the smallest tooth on the inside of the distributor be right at or close to the magnet located on the black pointer inside the distributor? Still learning.. be gentle lol. EDIT: Because if so... my 'littlest tooth' is not any more. I had it out (DISTRO) after watching this video once before.. but.. it rained. I had to scrap the test. ... But not before noticing the magnet issue?.. or no? The magnet is 'catching' a different one now not the smallest "tooth" anymore. Anyone have a clue? Thanks.
Don’t worry so much about the little magnet. Focus on the rotor as it’s easier to see and has the same relative position. When setting at TDC, you’re setting the rotor to line up with the pickup on the cap for cylinder number one on the compression stroke. I always take the spark plug out and put my finger over the hole. When it forces your finger off, that’s indicative of the exhaust valve being shut and should be on the compression stroke. I also like to take the valve cover off to double check both intake and exhaust valve are closed. Once you have the engine set on TDC #1, then stab the distributor and line the rotor up to point at the pickup for cylinder number one. Then you’re set on TDC. If you happen to set the engine at TDC on the exhaust stroke it’ll run but poorly. Might have to try it twice to get it right.
You would have no spark if the tfi module is bad
@@BMF_Garage same thing if the pick up is bad, right?
That’s correct
You are awesome bro!! Thanks! I thought I heard you say that later in the video... but.. I just wasn't sure so I felt dumb after asking and deleted my question :( ...RE-POST OF said QUESTION: @Clevor BMF same thing if the pick up is bad, right?
Good info. Thanks so much.
Absolutely!
I get work but no fuel injectors clicking and no fuel pump turning on
Did you make sure to ground the body of the distributor? Pickup inside the distributor could be bad, sounds like that’s what it is.
@@BMF_Garage I do have it grounded I even tried a new distributor connected the module grounded the body I do get spark but no injectors clicking and no pump turning on, what I notice it's that I don't get a ground from the rack at the fuel pump rely to power the fuel pumps
If your injectors or pump don’t turn on, you need to take out the ecu and look for corroded or bad capacitors on the circuit board. Green fuzzy goo means they are bad or sometimes they even come off the board
Would a bad PIP cause a rich condition.
Most likely not. Would probably not run. Rice condition is likely and air line leaking or broken that’s giving bad vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator… bad regulator… or bad O2 sensors.
You left out an important tip about removing the distributor gear. Theres 15 teeth on it....if you look at the teeth & the roll pins youll notice one pin is inline with a tooth and on the other side the pin is between 2 teeth...Placement is paramount in certain engines as once you set the distributor 10* one will be 12* off from obtaining proper SEFI synchronization due to being 12* off with the halls effect module ..Do you have a thrustplate behind the camgear????Ask the camshaft manufacturer why 10* is important in EFI EEC applications.....Youll be enlightened. Take care and awesome info about the testing.....
I've never worried about the position of the gear because I always check and reset my timing when I take the dizzy out. Just good practice. Thanks for watching!
Can’t you just test to see if you are getting power from the tfi module while it cranks?
If you prefer, yes. I like this way because I don’t have to have two people or try to set my meter up and watch while I crank. All depends on what resources, experience and tools you have.
@@BMF_Garage thank you, i successfully diagnosed a faulty tfi on my 87 marquis thanks to this video.
That’s amazing to hear. Glad it helped!
Thanks for the video
Can you help me with my problem. Change motor from my 90 f150, simple hook and play run for a little over a minute cranks but no fire from coil. Over a week I've replaced everything on my truck. Computer, distributor, coil,iac,tps,different wiring harness knock sensor and still no spark.
Sounds like you’re missing power to the engine harness. Did you verify voltage on the coil and fuel injectors with the key in the on position?
@@BMF_Garage yeah voltage is good, coil is good. Have power through the harness and on #4 and #3 on the distributor has power . Then while trying to crank no power to the 6,5,3
@@BMF_Garage I went to another site for testing the tfi connection, if I'm correct the harness the numbers count down 654321 6 being at the top right.. with it unplug from the tfi did the not start test no power to any terminal. Key on try to start with wire off the starter relay, power to #5 #3 no power to the #4
So if you have 12v pos... it’s on the ecu side. The ecu gives the ground signal to fire all that off
Great info
Thanks 🙏
Great idea!
Thanks 🙏
What if i have spark but no injector pulse
The negative is the one that pulses, not the hot.
There are some capacitors in the ecu that control that. If you’re not getting the pulse on the ground, open the ecu up and make sure the three capacities are in good shape... no green corrosion or broken off the board.
The pulse comes off the pickup in the distributor so if the ecu is good, then check the pickup. This requires removing the distributor to change.
@@BMF_Garage Yes i understand that but if my coil is firing wouldn't that mean that the pickup is ok?
If it were me, I’d rather check all those items to make sure
This test does not test anything specifically, it just tests for spark which you could do without removing the distributor.
False. This test shows you how to test for spark without having to crank the vehicle. It also tests injector pulses. It verifies your tfi is functioning and giving pulses to run the engine.
If a tfi is bad can it cause your mustang to idol
If they go bad, it’ll usually not even start
@@BMF_Garage thank I just have to keep looking what is making my 5.0 idol
Is it idling high, low, choppy, not at all or just rough?
@@BMF_Garage it is high
Some of that can be adjusted with the idle screw on the throttle body.
Yes sirrrr
2nd! Nice information! ;-)
Thanks!!
And this is a cool vidoe to 👍👌
thank you!
3rd, Best Husband Ever!
Lol who is 1st and 2nd??
👍👍👍👍
Thanks 🙏