Free mower. Won’t start. Cover the air intake! Briggs engine, Craftsman mower
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- Опубліковано 19 кві 2023
- Let’s see what AI says about this one:
Title: Mower Moving Hack: Choking Out for Temporary Relief | Briggs and Stratton Engine
Description:
In this informative video, we present a quick hack to overcome a challenging situation with a mower. Watch as we demonstrate a clever technique to move a mower by temporarily choking out the engine, allowing it to decompress and spin over.
We found ourselves faced with a hydro lock issue caused by a faulty float needle in the carburetor, which resulted in fuel leaking into the cylinder head. While we don't showcase the permanent solution in this video, it typically involves cleaning the carburetor and adjusting the exhaust and intake valves to optimal specifications (0.005" and 0.003" respectively).
Please note that this hack is a temporary fix and should be performed with caution and at your own discretion. We emphasize that viewers should consider the associated risks before attempting it.
The engine featured in this video is a reliable Briggs and Stratton, known for its durability and performance.
If you find yourself facing a similar situation where you need to move a mower temporarily, this video provides valuable insights and a helpful workaround. Stay tuned for future content where we delve into comprehensive maintenance and repair guides for keeping your equipment in top shape.
Remember to exercise safety precautions and seek professional assistance when dealing with complex engine issues. Don't forget to like and share this video with fellow mower enthusiasts who might find this hack useful. Subscribe to our channel for more practical tips, troubleshooting guides, and maintenance techniques for a hassle-free mowing experience.
Take control of your mower challenges with our innovative hacks and expert advice. Watch now and discover the possibilities!
The fix is a valve adjustment. The decompression valve is not working. Briggs 101
The fix is to replace that piece of shit OIHV single with a better built flathead. I'm going with an 18hp boxer.
How do you do a valve adjustment
I have the same problem with my mower
Very good, that is exactly the problem there. 👍
Hydrolocked
@@johnwaugh2613 it's usually on the exhaust valve, there's a weight on the camshaft that's deactivated by centrifical force once it starts. What has happened is it has loosened up the rocker arm, an needs to be tightened just a bit. Your motor will have its own valve lash specification. Pull the valve cover off and you'll see what tools you need. On compression stroke it releases a little bit of compression by moving the valve just a tiny little bit. When it's backed off all the way the starter doesn't have the balls to roll it over with all the compression the motor produces. There should be a UA-cam video on your specific engine
Adjust the valve lash so the internal compression releases work properly
He can take it to a mechanic.
unless the lever broke, motor is junk briggs anyway.
@@voidvincent what's your point. He's trying to fix it himself. Defeats the purpose..
@@voidvincent I hate people like you
I don't know how many mowers I've picked up for scrap that I just have to adjust thhe valves and they run great
Agree valves need adjusting.
That, of yge DCR is broken off. Common on the single cylinder briggs
Valve Compression Relief is busted.
You're correct sir
And a fun repair it is. Briggs Achilles heel.
This is the correct answer.
@@fatrobot89 Don't forget the blown head gasket problem...
That’s an excellent way to
bend/brake a rod!! 😂😂. Take the spark plug out people. If it’s so flooded it won’t turn over it’s gonna break something.
Not flooded. It didn't have compression release that's why it wouldn't spin over. All that fuel Is there is because he was blocking the air intake and it put extra vacuum on the jets while cranking.
It sure looked like a lot more gas coming out of the intake than is typical when hard choked like he did. That said, in my experience, if enough fuel is in a cylinder to hydrostatic lock, the starter isn't likely to turn it over. Even turning by hand can be tough.
Valves, not adjusted properly, or that particular Briggs is known for the compression release breaking, btw, all you had to do is back the engine up to tdc on the exhaust stroke, it will start then, 45+ years experience working on small engines
Just took my craftsman T1400 engine apart. Piston connecting rod was shattered all in the bottom of the oil pan. Poston looks good, cylinder looks good. Gover has a couple of broken teeth. Do you think it would be rebuildble? If I install a new rod and rings?
@@FrankAtwood shure, if the crank journal can be polished, and is not damaged, I have used muriatic acid to do this it works😎👍
@@warrenfloyd1484do you have your own channel on UA-cam?
It's flooding, our mower did that. We cut in a fuel valve on the line and shut the fuel off when not in use.
Adjust the valves, 5 thousands and it’ll start working fine
Worked like a gem 😉
That's pretty cool you could call it like that whataguy
But spec is .003 intake and.oo5 exhaust
@@keithkillion4245 on units with decompression release, they start easier with the extra clearance. You need the extra clearance when the DCR hits the cam lobe.
@@NiceLawnBroi got the same exact mower, if that blade engagement cable breaks just order a new one do the whole kit not just the spring.
First, put a Fuel Shutoff Valve on it, and try it after waiting overnight.
The fuel solenoid has absolutely zero to do with the engine flooding
@@THEMOWERMEDIC1 If you could read, I said Fuel SHUTOFF VALVE. It stops the flow of fuel to the carb/engine. The Solenoid can also cause it.
it needs a camshaft compression relief has broken off
@@THEMOWERMEDIC1 Um if your tractor is gravity feed fuel system it sure as hell does cause fuel can and will leak in to the engine. Have had it happen on mine a time or 2.
Yep when you do this trick you know compression release bad and needs replaced
The briggs & Stratton cam gears and the compression release are the biggest pieces of shit I have seen
Coming from a mechanic my whole life I have never heard of a small engine such as a lawn mower motor having a compression release for a motor with low compression from the factory Motors that have compression release are for high performance high compression Pistons that are in dirt bike and quad Motors that require premium gas to run
@@dustinolney3977no it's true that they have them. That starter can't spin that engine over without it. Yes the compression ratio is Garbo, but you gotta realize for these weak low performance lawn mower engines to be 18 HP, their displacement is massive
When you really need to choke the shit out of it 😂
😂🤣
Had this happen also. I figured it was.fuel.since the intake was full of it. So now there's a fuel shut off valve.before.the filter. Hey it works lol
Cheak float hight and for sticking if nikki carb get new
My decompression release broke on my 21hp Intek. I start it by covering intake. I used a wire magnet and fished out most of the broken pieces. Still running Like a champ.
cam kit is like $50 us dollars
Wow! I have spent 2 full days messing with my scotts s1742 and could not figure out what was wrong with it. Ive watched just about every other youtube video. Saw this now at almost 9pm and had to run out back to try it. It started up just like yours. From reading comments, it sounds like I have to adjust the valves. I was ready to give up 😂
i'd love to have a beater mower like that to just mozy around the yard in and drag the driveway smooth.. my brother mows our grass on a clapped out john deere s240 but i'd love to have my own. when i was a little kid we had one of those old boxy murray tractors with the 3spd transaxle control between your legs. I did 500 miles on that thing if i did a foot.
Absolutely genius I’ve been working on mowers for 40 years and never thought about covering the intake because how can you build compression if it can’t get air? I could see this working like a champ in a in a pinch especially on mowers that have a broken compression release on the camshaft
I saw it on a forum and felt more people needed to know about it!
@@NiceLawnBro hell yeah brother you got a like and a subscribe from me!
If it's hydro locked from fuel there's a good chance the crankcase is full of gas too. This is caused by a stuck fuel solenoid most of the time.
Usually at the crankcase is full of gasoline it's going to have a hard time idling properly.
You are correct sir.
Incorrect, the fuel solenoid has absolutely nothing to do with the engine flooding
@@terryayers6770 no he’s not. He’s completely 1000% wrong.
@@THEMOWERMEDIC1 I mean, a fuel solenoid going out could cause a hard start, but isnt going to flood the engine.
Its called the ," old hand for a choke trick."
Who knew?! 🥰
I usually just use my hand help spin the engine. Once it gets a lil momentum it usually fires off.
Your cam is broken. The compression release is not working. That's why when you restrict the vacuum it allows the engine to spin freely. The compression release is in the bottom of the engine about now. And if you keep running it, you can pound the pieces right through the crankcase with the bottom of the rod.
I was just thinking the same. I replaced 3 cams so far this year because of a broken compression release
Pressure relief rod broken on crank shaft… don’t take cowling off just to the right of the filter is the intake. Cover it with hand and she’ll start
FYI 12.6-12.8V is a fully charged battery. 12.5v is 3/4 charged
OK you found the fix but once you turn the lawnmower back off it won’t start or turn over again. How do you make it a permanent fix without having to keep putting your hand over it.
I work on lawn equipment for a living all it needs to be done as the valves adjusted
the same thing for a craftsman I picked up last weekend. Will be replacing the cam with decompression mechanism and valve adjustment this weekend
Silly the compression release is bad. And newer BSs are crap.
cam comp-release is broken drain the oil and fing metal trash.
The fly wheel needs shining up and readjusting the gap would definitely help.
Why would you sell someone something with a “permanent” problem? Fix the problem and then sell it. Do the right thing.
I did do the right thing: adjusted the valves, cleaned the carb and let him know of the history that it did get hydrolocked by fuel. Educated him that he should run it out of gas and use the fuel shutoff valve to make sure it doesn’t happen again in the future. What I did in this video was move the mower from one side of our property to the other. I needed it to move and I didn’t feel like pushing it. 🤷🏻♂️
There dumb and ass holes
He literally says “getting it ready to sell” and “I just needed it to move”. He’s not selling it like that
@@andrewlee8204 "A temporary fix to a permanent problem" kinda says it all.
@@NiceLawnBro If it's getting hydro locked by fuel it has a problem with the carb. As you said, "a temporary fix to a permanent problem" kinda says it all. fix the carb or put a new one on it. Selling it while it's still getting hydro locked on fuel isn't the "right thing" IMO. But hey, to each his own.
it does that because it's hydolocked from gas in the cylinder because the gas isn't shutting off. cranking one like that is a good way to blow it up
Clearly not hydrolocked, he did nothing to alleviate a hydrolock yet the engine started spinning just fine, that tells you its not hydrolocked
Valves need to be adjusted, the decompression part of the exhaust valve isn't able to work due to it being out of adjustment causing high compression during start up.
It could be the valve adjustment. It could be the compression release. On mine the float valve was leaking and filling the cylinder with gas. I saw gas come flying out of your carburetor. Fix on mine was replacing the float valve and putting a shut off in the gas line.
I had a mower that would start like this. Where the starter was trying to engage but it would go then stop. Ended up being the top part of the engine that spins. The magnets were rusty and ended up shooting out of the top and broke a piece of the engine case off. $700 new engine and she runs better than ever.
Wow who knew a mower with engine problems would start running like new after replacing the engine xD
@@exceptionalanimations1508 GFYM. 🤌🏽
I bought a brand new el cheapo craftsmen push mower. I couldn't get it to start. Then i took air filter off and choked it like you show. Has started every time on first pull for 10 years. Probably should have returned it but it works And it's easy.
YESSSS!!!!
valves don't need adjustment, the camshaft needs replacing. The compression release lever on the cam is broken. Common problem.
There's a video that shows about valve adjustment that allows yhe compression release so it will crank properly
Find TDC and go a quarter-ish turn beyond. Adjust there. 🥰
Adjust valves, starter can drag because of worn out bushings or brushes too. Solenoid can get weak and not allow full power to the starter. Choking more gas into it, is not a good, temporary fix. Liquid Gas washes the lube off the cylinder wall, causing extreme wear, very fast
We have the same issue with a TroyBilt LT1842 tractor. It hydrolocks from fuel leaking past the float valve. Simply turning off the fuel valve for a few seconds before shutting down will alleviate any issues on restarting.
🛎️ 🔔 nailed it! 🥰
That's what I just comented.
His wasn't hydolocked that fuel built up in the intake pipe after he plugged it and was cranking it sucking up a bunch of fuel through the jet
Adjustment of the values will fix that most likely !
No
@@noname-jn5pp y do u say (No)
Because it's a compression relief that is broken and has nothing to do with valve adjustments I assume you meant valve not value
I bet it needs a valve cuz I had one that acted just like that and I adjusted the valves and it started just fine
Exhaust was close to .020!
The valves need adjusted
Adjusting your rockers would fix it lol
Fixed! 😍
Could be a few things together that made the issue but ultimately it just needs to be cleaned and tuned it's basic mechanic matence air lines fuel lines air filter and gasket check the rest is just hitting with carb cleaner then some wd4 to lube up some of the rust off the surface of any but yea it's easy work really
I have one of those engines with that problem and I'm going to replace it with an 18hp boxer twin.
Heybefore you repla e the engine put a Manuel fuel shut off in your fuel line ,,,when your done cutting just shut the fuel line off and let it run out of gas ,it's like 4 dollars and it keeps your carb from getting crap built up in it I use this on all of mine and the oldest mower is 12 yrs old I have never changed the carb on anything ,,,hey its a cheaper try than a new motor ,,,good luck
@@briananderson3801 the problem is a shitty decompression system and I just plain prefer the boxers anyway.
Could be the valves but it could be the compression release on the cam
When did Tony Hawk start working on lawnmower lol
😂🤣🛹
Check valve adjustment
Genius. Thanx
Everyone is saying it’s a valve problem it could be but those Briggs & Stratton engines have plastic cam gears and those gears could’ve been stripped so you need to replace the gear to the compression release
Not valves it's the float seat that has torn replace the carb seat
Decompresor broke or valves need ajustment
The fix to that is to shut off your fuel before shutting down the mower. Been there, done that.
Yessir
Just do a cummins swap.😅
🤣😂
Flooding due to crappy carb. Easy fix. Clean and rebuild carb. But continued attempts to turn it over with the starter when it's hydrolocked will definitely produce non favorable results.
You’re not wrong!
That's the choke method
Get er donnnnne 🤣😂
Sounds free.
🤣😂
Probably just a valve adjustment issue, or a faulty/broken compression relief on the camshaft, both are quite easy to do
Your cylinder pressure comes out the air intake.
Your valve is open at the wrong time.
Check the flywheel key, your valve adjustment, and possible defective cam.
Note also if vibration is abnormal due to the blade hitting something in the past.
I'm waiting for the next installment.
Notice it just doesn't sound right at any point in the process.
Americans had no problems like this making Briggs engines.
But, f them, right?
Some 9 year old made this one.
Apparently people want you to adjust the valves.
📰 🗞️ NEWS ALERT ‼️ 🚨 THIS JUST IN 😂🤣😂🤣🥰
Mine had a similar issue. It wound up needing a new head because the valve guide moved and wouldn't let the valve open all the way.
They call that hydrolocked. It means the fuel is leaking past the needle and seat and filling the cylinder with fuel. Fuel doesn't compress. Thats why it won't turn over. Did you see the fuel spray out of the intake? Flooded engine. Too many experts.
Anytime you can get an MTD out of your life... Life will be much simpler
As long as we got a block with metal and it's got compression than it will run!!
I mean, 🤷🏻♂️ you’re not wrong!
You got me as a new subscriber my friend!! Thank you!!
Dang. My Troy bilt pony riding mower is doing the same thing. Someone suggested it was a decompression issue. I just replaced the pto cable and put in a new carb. It didn’t have a starting issue til I had a guy check it out as it was running kinda rough. Now won’t start. Sounds like changing the cam compression whatever it’s called is what is needed. This may be a silly question but.. is there a way to confirm that’s the issue? Someone else suggested the ignition coil.. sigh.
From the outside, you can look at the valves. Notice how the one valve didn’t have much movement in mine? But the other one did! Spin the engine by hand and watch the movement. Tell tale sign. Beyond that, four bolts and the engine is off. Crack the case and you’ll see.
like many others have said. it takes ten minutes to adjust the valves and unlike others have said its 4 thou not five. five will work but four is spec. Ive got the same engine also a issue that you'll have an issue coming up soon if the engine has shown that hard turnover. I know that this isnt the right way to do it but I tried everything else. you may have to run a independent ground line for your starter here pretty soon. I had both of these issues at the same damn time. so it wasnt fun to say the least. anyway I gotta go hang a new deck on mine right now before it gets super hot outside l8rrz.
Is there a video on how to do them? I'm good at mechanic work, just don't know the engine
Adjust the valves and then it will mow
That's some good info. You never know when you might need it.
Adjust valves use a drop of lock tight on the jam nuts ... Valve adjustment on Briggs & Stratton engines just part of regular scheduled maintenance cuz I oil changes and air filters All the other stuff nobody does
Open the valve cover, 4mil adjustment will fix the engine stuttering at start!
Interesting how it turned over after you took the plastic off
Needs a fuel shutoff valve
Get a fuel cut off switch. Turn off the fuwl and let that turn the engine off
New starter an full size cables made mine whip over. But before that I just reached down an twisted it passed that an it would start
It ain’t dumb if it works! 🤣😂🥰
You could try adjusting the valves. That’s usually all that’s wrong with them.
My carb leaks into the engine, it's new, and the last carb had the same problem, I installed a fuel shut off
I'm sure that chattering dry bushing in the starter isn't helping the situation one bit, either.. Enough of my flatheads still run well enough that I haven't had to replace one with an OHV, lol! Oil changes seem to have done them fine.. And draining fuel for winter/summer(pretty much just the snow blower, haha..) storage.
In case you don’t understand what the problem is, your valves are out of adjustment at the very least plus that spring back of the fog out through the carburetor could be an indicator that the valve seat has come out of its recess in the head from the engine being too hot it sometime or another. If you keep running it you’re going to ruin it. It needs fixing. PS check the oil and make sure it’s not over full and smelling like gas. If so, your carburetor is leaking fuel pass the needle valve and running down into the engine by way of around the intake valve and around the rings. It needs a seven dollar shut off valve in the fuel line and someone who can remember to turn it off after each mowing and a fresh change of oil.
Excellent analysis! 🥰
I don't think his carb was leaking, my guess is all that fuel built up when he was cranking it with his hand over the intake
Set the valves and your problem is solved. I've literally fixed hundreds of briggs where people thought is was broke compression release. ITS THE VALVES
You’re 💯%on the 💰 No more problems after that was done.
know where i can get parts like carb and gromets for gas tank for this very engine in the vidio? a site i can order from?
@@robertbrown3539 I would think Amazon eBay or a google search
Those single cylinder briggs motors the newer ones like in the video they have camshafts that the decompression breaks all the time and it won't turn over if you have a good battery good starter and the valves set and it still won't turn over its the cam I do them all the time at work
@@quadvloggs6876 absolutely, if you set the valves and it still oes this, then ya it's the decomp
Put a shut off valve on the fuel line .
The engine is vapor locking from the carb leaking fuel into the cylinders. More than likely from using gas with ethanol in it eating the rubber off of the needle in its seat. It also will do it from shutting down the engine running at high RPM's.
Everyone in the commrnts. Its the tappet clearance or the decompressors broke on the cam. Briggs and scrapem.
Pop the plug out then crank if it still hangs up on the compression stroke lash the valves
Valves were out of spec
Engine locked by fuel. Take the spark plug out and clear the fuel. I am amazed that the engine would turn over.
either camshaft compression release had fallen apart or the spring is weak...I've seen both...solution is to replace the cam..then readjust the valves
I've seen people run those briggs singles with a busted acr and have seen the whole back of the motor blown off when that piece of broken metal gets between the counterbalancer and block
I just recently had to replace my decompression valve on my Husqvarna because it was having the same issue
Compression release mechanism is broken. Just a matter of time till the engine grenades. Replace the engine with a non-briggs.
that much fuel popping out means carb is leaking and it not turning is cause its partly hydro locking it self. Take it from experience as my tractor's fuel cutoff solenoid doesn't work well but i expect something to be wrong with a tractor i owned for 30 years.
Try starting the motor with the spark plug out.. if oil is in combustion chamber it will shoot out the plug port, so don't have it shooting at anything you wouldn't want oil getting on.
Gas
Turn the engine by hand just passed the compression stroke amd you give the weak starter more time to spin the engine faster
The problem is the carb is flooding the engine you need to pull the spark plug out and turn engine over to clear. pull the dip stick the crankcase is full of gas put a fuel shutdown switch on the fuel line shut down when engine off .make sure to change oil
Dude I sold my 16 year old Troy built tractor for $550 bucks and purchased a $4000 dollar 💵 Greenworks electric ⚡️ tractor 🚜 I am so happy I got rid of that gas ⛽️ trouble making monster it cost me $260 dollars a year to maintain and over 16 years I could have purchased this almost care free electric ⚡️ lawnmower. I say almost care free because one day I will be forced to replace the blades and maybe 🤔 the motors but that’s ok I can do that myself seriously 😳.
Ran to the comments with my valve adjustment suggestion, too late. Lol
🤣😂🥜
Or you could adjust the valves before you mess it up
Some mowers have fuel shut off solenoid that go bad, this causes fuel to leak past the float in carb . Filing the combustion chamber .. that’s why it appears the battery’s low and needs a boost ultimately forcing the valves out of spec then flooding the crankcase contaminating with gas killing the engine over short time period
That's not even what that fuel shutoff solenoid does all that's for is to prevent the mower from popping out the exhaust after you shut it off
@@mondude9754 good explanation man I think that’s what I said maybe just a little more technical than the beginners version ?
@@allensandven0 you said "Some mowers have fuel shut off solenoid that go bad, this causes fuel to leak past the float in carb ." Wich is actually false. The float and needle valve are entirely liable for sealing off the fuel supply when the gas level in the bowl is where it should be. You imply that the fuel solenoid going bad could cause fuel to leak past the float in the carb. but the two each have their own purposes separate from eachother.
@@mondude9754 I think most of us are familiar how a carb needle and float work here .. what I didn’t clearly explain is with or without the needle and float working perfect you still need a fuel shutoff on a gravity fuel system to ensure the needle or float doesn’t let fuel continuously flow through the carb filling the combustion chamber causing hydro lock and or contaminating the oil ! In both cases the diy joe fails to check the oil or notice the fuel in the oil .. thinks it just needs a jump from his 200amp booster charger forcing the fuel compression past the rings and or valve guides at best forcing them out of spec ..then wonder why it’s hard to start .. but then again I’ve never tried the hand choke trick so just to recap … a working fuel shutoff will save you a lot off headaches. And it’s very common issue .. yes the float also must be working correctly but if your fuel shut off is functioning correctly at most your fuel in the bowl will evaporated before the next use not causing damage just some run idle issues
Your carb is leaking gas into the motor mine did that I had to pull my plug out
Might have some water in the oil i had some do that change the oil take sparkplug off and spin it
Any suggestions to just rigging a fuel pump onto a motor? My bracket doesn’t match uo
Drill a small hole in the cowling and use a zip tie or screw or nut and bolt to secure it?
DONT LEAVE THE KEY IN LIKE THAT🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
🤔🤷🏻♂️🥜🧈🍇⏰
Thats the exact mower i have, mine runs funny af after mowing it seems to have a rev problem going high then low although that may be because im mowing like 6 lawns in a day
Surging after it warms up is always a fuel issue. Cleaning the carb and checking/replacing the lines will fix the surging it’s doing. Make sure there aren’t any air leaks around the intake manifold and carb, as well.
Taking out the spark in plug and turning it over will fix that problem too.
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Adjust the valves, they're so far out it won't work the decompression
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