As a last resort, try to de-carbon the valves and pistons by spraying a water mist onto the intake The steam will break loose carbon on the valves. Be careful how much you use because of hydro lock
Hey Ray, Chrysler tech here, if you do end up doing a cylinder head. Take a straight edge to the block (it should not exceed 0.0025-0.0035") for some reason when the rear heads go bad, they allow the block to warp. If you catch it early enough you can get it machined. Chrysler says the head over cylinders 3 and 5 pulls away from the block. Probably not your issue but is worth checking while you're there, to potentially save them a ton of money down the road (if not caught early enough, coolant will pour in the cylinders and ruin the engine). It's very common on the 3.6L in my experience
As far as I've seen its all pentastars, but can be avoided by proper maintenance, don't overheat the engine and proper interval oil changes will help. Most of the failures I see are from neglect. As much as the owners want to say they maintain the engine. The damage to the engine doesn't lie and we as techs can see what really happened and the likely cause. I cannot stress enough, do NOT listen to FCA about their oil change intervals, if you are going longer than 5k miles (i don't care which oil you use) then you WILL have issues, also make sure you use the correct coolant and do NOT mix the autozone generic coolant with Mopar coolant as that will result in gel in the cooling system therefore overheating the engine. If you want to use the autozone generic coolant you WILL need to flush the system beforehand to avoid any issues as the Mopar coolant is known to have mixture issues already (FCA will not admit it). Other than that if you have a noise from the engine don't ignore it. I have one in the shop right now where the customer complained about a loss of power but apparently didn't notice the knocking from the engine. The engine is now completely done for and requires replacement as there was too much damage to rebuild@@SooSmokie
@@Recon_OB Oh wow ok. I have been going to 8k normally, then started 15k with better synthetic. I use penzoil. I'll start at 5k now as I felt better about 5-7k instead if 10+. I only use the expensive chrysler stuff, and yes got the right stuff for my model. 2018 2dr rubicon, 55k miles on it now. She has treated me good so far except those calipers are garbage and always wanting to seize on me. Gotta re grease my brakes every year, about to have to tear apart me second and maybe third caliper on this. I may upgrade my calipers soon. But hey thanks for the info and the reply!
I just repaired one of these (3.6 pentastar) three months ago. It had damaged cams and rockers. All 4 cams and at least 6 rockers were damaged. Very common issue with the Pentastar 3.6 engine (youtube it). When the cam lobes wear enough, the cam duration and lift changes on that lobe, causing valve timing (and lift) to be off on that cylinder, resulting in compression issues. I would highly recommend that you pull the v/c's and inspect the cam lobes and the roller rockers, a.k.a. cam followers. The compression readings you were getting fit the symptoms of cam/rocker/lash adjuster problems. Inspect all, there are complete kits available for a reasonable price. The kits come with cams, followers, lash adjusters and required gaskets. There is a special tool kit needed for this repair, but the tool kit is cheap (less than $50).
We had one I know, first this side, then after months later, that side. He drove it, talked about it alot, all he had to do. They(dealer) did initial work for failed parts at that time, then left him to fix the rest when it failed later. He had it all straightened out, drove it for months saying it was good now. While he sat idling, talking to me about another topic, it started missing . What a FPOS. 3.6L I believe. Not impressed with that build. Cam eater. And they told him it's customer pay pay pay.
I had a similar situation with a 2017 Caravan, same cylinder. Turned out one of the exhaust rockers had failed, the camshaft spit it toward the valve, where it lodged that valve open. Thankfully it wasn't opened enough to cause a piston strike, but it was open enough to kill the compression on that cylinder. Cam wasn't damaged, so we put a new rocker on it. Issue resolved.
So you bought the Back to the future DeLoreon so you can go back to correct misdiagnosis of the steering shaft the other day?Let the adventure start.We need the sequel.
Ray you are freakin awesome! You did make some GUESTIMATIONS...not true diags, Then you verified your guesstimations. I wouldn't consider this "doing your job twice" but again verifying your findings. Kudos!
That's literally how a real mechanic diagnoses a car and confirms the issue. Too many mechanics today are worthless as they only know how to hook up a computer and replace parts. Why Chrysler sent this to him.
True but it also depends on his customer's needs as well! If the customer only needs minor stuff like an oil change or brake change, I'm still fine with shorter vids :P
@@ryulee458 while I certainly prefer the longer format, I'm also mindful that Ray is a mechanic who happens to run a successful UA-cam channel, as easy as it is for some people to forget, he is not a successful youtuber who just happens to also run a garage. As a result of this, the reality is and likely always will be that he can only film the jobs available at any given time and while I'm sure he tries to pick and choose the jobs that might be more interesting to his audience, the reality is that if all he has for a week straight is oil and brake disc changes and A/C jobs, then all he's got to choose between that week is a bunch of oil and brake disc changes and A/C jobs. I don't begrudge the shorter videos but I certainly enjoy the longer format when he has a job that allows for a longer video and I appreciate the extra work involved in filming and editing those bigger jobs that can take just as long to edit as they do to film in the first place.
Happened to my Audi and the rings are stuck in the compressed state :(. The dealer wants to put an engine in but maybe BG EPR + MOA can help, anyway it's a lot cheaper than an engine.
For cleaning valves a trick I got from another mechanic that works really well is to take some zip ties, cut the big end off and tape them together. Then put that in a drill. Put some cleaner in the runner and twirl the zip ties around inside. Works wonders to break that crap up
16:50 ChuckE2009 stood the cases on end like a book rack and wrote what's inside in marker on the edge making it easer to grab, less likely to drag a bunch of stuff to the floor.
I had a similar issue on a Jeep. Miss fire on number 3. I ran very heavy fuel injection cleaner. That solved the issue. Took about a week. These engines are known to have heavy carbon build up. Been good for the past 25,000 miles.
2 bottles of STP fuel injection cleaner(in the black bottle) per tank to clear misfire. I also run mystery oil in the gas once a month to reduce carbon build up.
@@jimgillikin3217 I was thinking of trying 3 bottles with a just a 1/8 tank to clean the injectors to maybe resolve high fuel consumption I'm having lately
Ray doesn't use am oscilloscope yet. His diagnostic skills will shoot to the moon once he does! I have to think the reason for no scope is because most of the places he used to work were always pushing for fast fixes. The kind of thing very common with flat rate shops. Now he can take his time and become a more complete diagnostician.
@@mod_incllc3235 I don't see why this wouldn't be the fastest way, with one test he would have tested every single cylinder all at once, to see if anything was off
I will say you freaked me out when you didn't block the intake runners during the disassembly of the injectors Ray. But... lots to learn from this video thanks for sharing it with us.
I always check to make sure the said done things were done and re-diagnose Some times it just a stupid thing like after work was done the code wasn’t cleared and so it will still act up until it’s cleared on its own or manually
I went through literally the exact process on my 18 wrangler. Except it was an intermittent missfire on cylinder 2. Changed everything like you did on the cylinder. Still ended up needing a new left head...jeeps lucky it's got a cult following haha
I would take a 18' wrangler and gut out the drive train, engine, trans, AIR BAGS!, and throw the body on a 1984 CJ-7 chassis, 304 AMC motor,T4 manual twin stick 300 TC, Dana 30- Dana 80, lockers and then call it a Jeep! FYI just saying Chrysler bought the brand but since has NEVER EVER duplicated the JEEP product!
Wonder if he was able to retrieve that bolt that was hanging out down there before he put everything back on?? I'm up to 44:12 and no mention if he did or not, just going to try with a magnet.
@14:40, I would have Moved #3 coil AND plug to #5 spot. I’ve had plugs go bad internally and I would have wanted to know if either item was bad. I also would have done a resistance check on both coils to ground to see if they measure the same prior to reassembly.
Another thing that I like to do when investigating low compression is to use a leak-down tester. This helps you determine if it’s an intake valve or exhaust valve or rings. Awesome video thank you for sharing 🫶
There is a boroscope you can get that has upwards facing cameras, which means you can see the valves and if they are damaged without having to remove the valve cover.
Another great video, Ray! Watching them is how I relax after work. Speaking of work, I haven't seen Troy or heard you talking to him. Does he still work there?
Have noticed sometimes people get cylinder 1 mixed up on on front wheel drive vehicles, usually because they assume number 1 is still on drivers side end of engine
yes, the test might have been repetitive, but much appreciated. defiantly great to see other way's of doing the test. I have never done so my self but glad tosee that way you did this one. THANKS
I've seen enough of "Just Rolled In" to know that customers will lie about everything. "Customer states car stopped working after small bump." Whole undercarriage of car is missing and wheels are ground flat. 🤣
Great diagnosis, it's nice to see you taking time to properly diagnose the engine problem. I wonder if there is carbon holding the rings in the ring lands? Maby a intake and combustion chamber cleaning is in order, then another check of the compression to see if the compression comes back. Another subject off topic does the tow truck have a hitch that will tow your enclosed trailer? By the looks of Hurricane Lee, I think you should prepare to head north if it is going to come ashore anywhere close to you. It is predicted to be a category 5 Hurricane. I hope it turns and heads out to sea and misses Florida altogether.
Hmm, I thought you lubricate the new fuel injector with some engine oil or similar before installation Nice process of cleaning out some of the carbon buildup of the intake valves with brake cleaner and air blasts
I experienced a once in a career situation concerning a low compression misfire. Compression in one cylinder very low. Added oil for wet test and compression normal. Typical indication of ring or cylinder wall issue. However miss was completely gone when engine restarted. Must have been carbon starting to build up on valve seat that was washed off from the oil.
I boots say Ray, I never would have tackled some of the repairs on my vehicles if it wasn't for your videos. I've been watching you for a while now. And I gotta say if it wasn't for your teachings, I would never have been able to rebuild the brake system on my sons truck or the full suspension rebuild on my own truck. I always saw it as a scary projects that I was always afraid of. But watching you has given me more confidence in myself to realize that it is like an onion and all I had to do was slow down, think it through and everything will work out fine. It turns out now that all those big projects are really not that big. Sure it took me four days to redo the suspension on my truck, but I'm also fifty with health issues. Being disabled tends to slow things down, but I can't afford a pro machanic. Plus I don't have a lift either, so all my work is done with floor jacks and sitting on the floor. But, thanks ray for all your inspiration. It's making me into a better machanic.
yo ray I just watched a video and this guy was talking about you and said that you deserve more attention than you have and was saying a lot of good stuff about you. the channel is Tube Money Analytics. keep up the good work
My Brother in laws Torrent has a misfire on cylinder 1 at startup. I fired the parts cannon at it with changing the coil, wire, and pcv hose since it was broken. Flushed the system with seafoam. Now it just misfires at startup but goes away.
You are fixing all the problem vehicles in Tampa, apparently. Local shops get stumped, and you diagnose the problem. Nice ! However, it still a Chrysler, bruh...😂
May I ? The correct method of doing a wet/dry compression test is to remove ALL spark plugs, hold the throttle body valve open, insert the tester in #1 and crank it. Record the result and repeat for the remaining cylinders. Put a squirt of oil in #1 and record the pressure. Repeat for remaining cylinders. If you don't do this you will have erroneous readings as you are pulling a vacuum on the intake. Compare the pressures. These should be the CR (compression ratio) x 14.2 (one atmosphere). They should agree within 10%. If a dry < wet, it's a valve related problem, if wet > dry, it's rings. You were 100% correct to suspect a Comp. Test error and replace an injector as these things are infamous for failure. Because it's a Chrysler, I'd have done ALL plugs coils and injectors, but many customers won't spring for that I understand.
That compression is unusually low Ray, a yourube channel called The Online Mechanic deals with that 3.6 pentastar. Most common issues is the rocker arms causing the lower compressions or the variable cam phasors sticking from the solenoids being gunked up. I noticed same low compression across each cylinder
I was always taught that when you do a compression test, you should have all the spark plugs out and the throttle plate, wide-open and crank for three seconds. But I’m sure that engine is shot anyways
I would run an intake clean spray such as Subaru top end cleaner if available in the states to see if I clears up all that carbon and restores some comp on cylinder3. The Subaru spray works wonders. Make sure it’s done outside though
Ray revert to old school mechanics, compression 1. add a dab of atf to the cylinder no change? suspect valves, now run a leak down test, all guessing is over, you can prove its going past rings, or past the valves, intake exhaust or both...
Ray, as I understand it, a valid compression test requires that all spark plugs be removed and the throttle plate propped open. Restrictions on the incoming air can contribute to low compression readings.
My Neon started running real rough on my way home not long ago. Watched the fuel gauge physically moving for the rest of the 15 mile highway trip. Over a quarter tank for that distance. Guess what I found? A fuel injector leaking, so bad, I could blow through it with little restriction. Went almost normal at full throttle, with the extra air flowing in though 😂
I would love to know what their oil change intervals were and if that might have contributed to this issue. That's a lot of miles for a relatively new minivan. I have a 2011 Chrysler minivan with only 74,000 miles and have had NO issues and I change the oil every 4K miles. These engine are not forgiving and need regular maintenance.
Boy, I cant tell you how many time I got a job where parts had come in for a job that a junior mech had ordered these parts & I blindly install the parts as I had been told to do & it did not fix the problem. I suspect the junior mech hit a brickwall & instead of asking for help he just ordered parts & let someone else finish the job. !
I wonder if the newer Chrysler vehicles have a compression test function like the newer GMs - my wife's '15 Malibu has it and using GDS2, you can command a compression test were it'll shut down spark and fuel and crank the engine for a specific length of time. Works really well IMO.
I’ve heard of you hold the throttle pined they will do that never actually verified it though I also wondered if it could show low if the throttle body is restricting air to make compression
@mitchharris97 Well, technically, you're supposed to hold the throttle down to open the throttlebody when doing a compression test, which I don't think was done here, but because it was the same for all three cylinders tested, I would say it doesn't invalidate the results (and to be honest, pretty much every time I've done a compression test, I've forgotten that part). The good cylinders did seem to build up pressure kind of slowly, but they got there, whereas #3 did not. The specs I've seen typically say no cylinder should be less than 100PSI and the variation between the highest and lowest should be no more than 10%. Re-running the test with the TB wide open MIGHT increase the compression numbers, but even if it did, I suspect #3 would still fail on the no more than 10% variation spec if it did manage to get over 100PSI. There definitely seems to be something wrong with #3, and since there was no meaningful improvement after Ray put some oil in the cylinder, I'd say the issue is in the head, or MAYBE the head gasket.
Will eventually do plugs and maybe coils why I'm there in Promaster self-made camper by 80-90K. Know you have to tear apart intake and hard to reach stuff in the rear, nice to see it done with all the plastic. Bought the van with codes reset on a bad coil that revealed itself on the trip home, the used car dealer replaced it, it only acted up when it got warm on a warm day and bought it in the spring with temps during short test drives in the 50s.
A bad coil could also leave the spark plug and cylinder wet with gas. A bad fuel injector could also cause it, but it is cheaper to replace the coil, unless you are counting on the previous shop diagnosing the correct cylinder.
Proof positive method of looking for blown head gasket (chamber to cooling jacket), remove all coils, remove all but 1 plug, fill radiator to top, turn engine over. Bubbles at radiator fill hole = blown gasket at that cyl. Move the plug to next cylinder, check again. When all cyls checked, you will know if you saw any bubbles, which, if any, cyl, has a blown partition in the gasket. Barring coolant in the pan, or oil in the radiator...
Had a friend with similar issues on a Jeep--It seems like the Pentastar 3.6 has some problem. There's a lemon law class-action suit in CA complaining that "several engine components fail prematurely and cause problems with opening and closing the valves. The lawsuit claims the rocker arms and lifters to be defective and alleges problems with the engine control module software, which controls the timing and function of the lifters."
Or settles without having to admit anything is wrong--- The US Southern District of California Case No.: 3:17-CV-02594-JO-AHG was specifically for Pacifica between 2017 and 2021 and it was settled. These scenarios do happen but it's generally not within a manufacturer's best interest to admit fault.
i have a question on a 2018 chevy silverrod it shakes in the cab but not in the streeing wheel. at around 80 mph. maybe u joints in drive shaft my guess. ??? help.
Not sure if you know but a regular tire Schrader valve will give a lower reading than the kind ment for a compression tester. Those are lower tension valves
Correct. Standard tire Schrader will give much lower readings. A comparison by feel of how hard it is to compress the springs in each will demonstrate the difference.
Ray, I'm working on swapping out a 5.3 because of a bad injector. Stuck open while the truck sat overnight, piston was at the bottom of the compression stroke and the cylinder filled with raw fuel. He went to start it the next morning and bang. New engine. Bend the rod, damaged the piston. So if the injector in that Pacifica was bad, it's possible it hurt a valve or piston.
As soon as you start the engine, there is still the added oil to the cylinder number three that is sealing the piston ring. You will continue to have a higher compression pressure until the added oil is burned off.
Follow Up Here, not looking good! Low Compression Follow Up! Chrysler Pentastar 3.6 ua-cam.com/video/ytwquADwHtY/v-deo.html
As a last resort, try to de-carbon the valves and pistons by spraying a water mist onto the intake The steam will break loose carbon on the valves. Be careful how much you use because of hydro lock
Hey Ray, Chrysler tech here, if you do end up doing a cylinder head. Take a straight edge to the block (it should not exceed 0.0025-0.0035") for some reason when the rear heads go bad, they allow the block to warp. If you catch it early enough you can get it machined. Chrysler says the head over cylinders 3 and 5 pulls away from the block. Probably not your issue but is worth checking while you're there, to potentially save them a ton of money down the road (if not caught early enough, coolant will pour in the cylinders and ruin the engine). It's very common on the 3.6L in my experience
I'll bet with the modern stuff that they put out you are very very busy man
I think you were right. Did you see today's (Sept 22) video? Looks like cyl 3 hydrolocked and kaboom!
Is this all pentastars? Or the ones they are using on the JL?
As far as I've seen its all pentastars, but can be avoided by proper maintenance, don't overheat the engine and proper interval oil changes will help. Most of the failures I see are from neglect. As much as the owners want to say they maintain the engine. The damage to the engine doesn't lie and we as techs can see what really happened and the likely cause. I cannot stress enough, do NOT listen to FCA about their oil change intervals, if you are going longer than 5k miles (i don't care which oil you use) then you WILL have issues, also make sure you use the correct coolant and do NOT mix the autozone generic coolant with Mopar coolant as that will result in gel in the cooling system therefore overheating the engine. If you want to use the autozone generic coolant you WILL need to flush the system beforehand to avoid any issues as the Mopar coolant is known to have mixture issues already (FCA will not admit it). Other than that if you have a noise from the engine don't ignore it. I have one in the shop right now where the customer complained about a loss of power but apparently didn't notice the knocking from the engine. The engine is now completely done for and requires replacement as there was too much damage to rebuild@@SooSmokie
@@Recon_OB Oh wow ok. I have been going to 8k normally, then started 15k with better synthetic. I use penzoil. I'll start at 5k now as I felt better about 5-7k instead if 10+.
I only use the expensive chrysler stuff, and yes got the right stuff for my model.
2018 2dr rubicon, 55k miles on it now.
She has treated me good so far except those calipers are garbage and always wanting to seize on me. Gotta re grease my brakes every year, about to have to tear apart me second and maybe third caliper on this. I may upgrade my calipers soon.
But hey thanks for the info and the reply!
I just repaired one of these (3.6 pentastar) three months ago. It had damaged cams and rockers. All 4 cams and at least 6 rockers were damaged. Very common issue with the Pentastar 3.6 engine (youtube it). When the cam lobes wear enough, the cam duration and lift changes on that lobe, causing valve timing (and lift) to be off on that cylinder, resulting in compression issues. I would highly recommend that you pull the v/c's and inspect the cam lobes and the roller rockers, a.k.a. cam followers. The compression readings you were getting fit the symptoms of cam/rocker/lash adjuster problems. Inspect all, there are complete kits available for a reasonable price. The kits come with cams, followers, lash adjusters and required gaskets. There is a special tool kit needed for this repair, but the tool kit is cheap (less than $50).
Techs nationwide have been reporting this on Direct-Hit.
Very uncommon next to never issue, Pentastars generally have minimal if any issues ever.
We had one I know, first this side, then after months later, that side.
He drove it, talked about it alot, all he had to do.
They(dealer) did initial work for failed parts at that time, then left him to fix the rest when it failed later.
He had it all straightened out, drove it for months saying it was good now.
While he sat idling, talking to me about another topic, it started missing .
What a FPOS.
3.6L I believe.
Not impressed with that build.
Cam eater.
And they told him it's customer pay pay pay.
I had a similar situation with a 2017 Caravan, same cylinder. Turned out one of the exhaust rockers had failed, the camshaft spit it toward the valve, where it lodged that valve open. Thankfully it wasn't opened enough to cause a piston strike, but it was open enough to kill the compression on that cylinder. Cam wasn't damaged, so we put a new rocker on it. Issue resolved.
According yo Direct-Hit this seems to be a common issue.
@@mod_incllc3235 Indeed, seen a lot of that on DH.
So you bought the Back to the future DeLoreon so you can go back to correct misdiagnosis of the steering shaft the other day?Let the adventure start.We need the sequel.
Ray you are freakin awesome! You did make some GUESTIMATIONS...not true diags, Then you verified your guesstimations. I wouldn't consider this "doing your job twice" but again verifying your findings. Kudos!
Scientists call GUESTIMATIONS "hypothesis."
Verify, Isolate, Repair and Test!
That's literally how a real mechanic diagnoses a car and confirms the issue.
Too many mechanics today are worthless as they only know how to hook up a computer and replace parts.
Why Chrysler sent this to him.
Gotta love the longer videos. I definitely prefer 45 minutes and over.
Exactly he needs to have longer videos
True but it also depends on his customer's needs as well! If the customer only needs minor stuff like an oil change or brake change, I'm still fine with shorter vids :P
@@ryulee458 while I certainly prefer the longer format, I'm also mindful that Ray is a mechanic who happens to run a successful UA-cam channel, as easy as it is for some people to forget, he is not a successful youtuber who just happens to also run a garage. As a result of this, the reality is and likely always will be that he can only film the jobs available at any given time and while I'm sure he tries to pick and choose the jobs that might be more interesting to his audience, the reality is that if all he has for a week straight is oil and brake disc changes and A/C jobs, then all he's got to choose between that week is a bunch of oil and brake disc changes and A/C jobs. I don't begrudge the shorter videos but I certainly enjoy the longer format when he has a job that allows for a longer video and I appreciate the extra work involved in filming and editing those bigger jobs that can take just as long to edit as they do to film in the first place.
@@FloodExterminator absolutely agree.
@@FloodExterminatorlike changing windshield wipers...it's very educational.
None of those plugs look like they were recently replaced from what I could see
I was thinking the same thing
Somebody didn't bother to change them, just the coils, and billed em anyways.... (not Ray!)
How do you know?
it always great to see a fellow technician going the extra mile to make sure the customer is taken care of!!!
Curious to know what the oil is like. If that injector has been leaking for some time the oil may be diluted to the point of reducing compression.
If it was THAT diluted I think the Engine would seize .
Happened to my Audi and the rings are stuck in the compressed state :(. The dealer wants to put an engine in but maybe BG EPR + MOA can help, anyway it's a lot cheaper than an engine.
😊
For cleaning valves a trick I got from another mechanic that works really well is to take some zip ties, cut the big end off and tape them together. Then put that in a drill.
Put some cleaner in the runner and twirl the zip ties around inside. Works wonders to break that crap up
20:15 the portable light wanted to inspect the situation further by moving deeper into the engine.......
Best automotive YT channel to date; I’ve learned a boat load from you Ray. I watch everyday kuz I literally learn something new everyday you post
Good morning, Ray. Really like the update intro with the DeLorean.
Them intake runners are bad wow 41:20 them chucks are huge @Rainman Ray's Repairs
16:50 ChuckE2009 stood the cases on end like a book rack and wrote what's inside in marker on the edge making it easer to grab, less likely to drag a bunch of stuff to the floor.
I once had a similar issue on cold starts in a Toyota, turned out to be a fine crack in the head which rectified itself when at operating temperature.
I had a similar issue on a Jeep. Miss fire on number 3.
I ran very heavy fuel injection cleaner. That solved the issue. Took about a week. These engines are known to have heavy carbon build up.
Been good for the past 25,000 miles.
Which fuel injector cleaner did you use?
2 bottles of STP fuel injection cleaner(in the black bottle) per tank to clear misfire.
I also run mystery oil in the gas once a month to reduce carbon build up.
@@jimgillikin3217 I was thinking of trying 3 bottles with a just a 1/8 tank to clean the injectors to maybe resolve high fuel consumption I'm having lately
My brother in law has one of these Pacificlickers. Known issue with rockers and cams. Told him to get it in before bad things start happening.
I would have started with the picoscope to check the amp draw as it cranked. As this would have quickly ruled out if it was bad compression as a cause
Ray doesn't use am oscilloscope yet. His diagnostic skills will shoot to the moon once he does!
I have to think the reason for no scope is because most of the places he used to work were always pushing for fast fixes. The kind of thing very common with flat rate shops. Now he can take his time and become a more complete diagnostician.
@@mod_incllc3235 I don't see why this wouldn't be the fastest way, with one test he would have tested every single cylinder all at once, to see if anything was off
I will say you freaked me out when you didn't block the intake runners during the disassembly of the injectors Ray. But... lots to learn from this video thanks for sharing it with us.
I always check to make sure the said done things were done and re-diagnose
Some times it just a stupid thing like after work was done the code wasn’t cleared and so it will still act up until it’s cleared on its own or manually
Mine is still running well. It's nice to have a disassembly vid. Thanks!!
I went through literally the exact process on my 18 wrangler. Except it was an intermittent missfire on cylinder 2. Changed everything like you did on the cylinder. Still ended up needing a new left head...jeeps lucky it's got a cult following haha
I would take a 18' wrangler and gut out the drive train, engine, trans, AIR BAGS!, and throw the body on a 1984 CJ-7 chassis, 304 AMC motor,T4 manual twin stick 300 TC, Dana 30- Dana 80, lockers and then call it a Jeep! FYI just saying Chrysler bought the brand but since has NEVER EVER duplicated the JEEP product!
Ray do any of your customers see your videos of their car repairs.
Wonder if he was able to retrieve that bolt that was hanging out down there before he put everything back on?? I'm up to 44:12 and no mention if he did or not, just going to try with a magnet.
@14:40, I would have Moved #3 coil AND plug to #5 spot. I’ve had plugs go bad internally and I would have wanted to know if either item was bad. I also would have done a resistance check on both coils to ground to see if they measure the same prior to reassembly.
He did move both plug and coil.
Another thing that I like to do when investigating low compression is to use a leak-down tester. This helps you determine if it’s an intake valve or exhaust valve or rings. Awesome video thank you for sharing 🫶
Get a depsech camera with side view. Can see valves and cylinder walls.
Good morning Ray. Another great video on the way. Also everyone have yourself a great day.
There is a boroscope you can get that has upwards facing cameras, which means you can see the valves and if they are damaged without having to remove the valve cover.
Another great video, Ray! Watching them is how I relax after work. Speaking of work, I haven't seen Troy or heard you talking to him. Does he still work there?
Have noticed sometimes people get cylinder 1 mixed up on on front wheel drive vehicles, usually because they assume number 1 is still on drivers side end of engine
yes, the test might have been repetitive, but much appreciated. defiantly great to see other way's of doing the test. I have never done so my self but glad tosee that way you did this one. THANKS
17:56 you should put a chemical warning placard on the bathroom door like bio hazard or enter at own risk.
I have the same compression tester and it does the same thing. I go through schrader valves like crazy.
Ditto
Thats why I run a catch can on my 3.6 liter. To keep the intake runners clean. 😮
When I am looking for misfires I always load the vehicle misfires won’t always show in neutral.
I've seen enough of "Just Rolled In" to know that customers will lie about everything. "Customer states car stopped working after small bump." Whole undercarriage of car is missing and wheels are ground flat. 🤣
JRI should be required viewing for ALL car owners. It is just amazing what people will/won't do to their vehicles.
Great diagnosis, it's nice to see you taking time to properly diagnose the engine problem. I wonder if there is carbon holding the rings in the ring lands? Maby a intake and combustion chamber cleaning is in order, then another check of the compression to see if the compression comes back. Another subject off topic does the tow truck have a hitch that will tow your enclosed trailer? By the looks of Hurricane Lee, I think you should prepare to head north if it is going to come ashore anywhere close to you. It is predicted to be a category 5 Hurricane. I hope it turns and heads out to sea and misses Florida altogether.
18:42 you accidentally pulled the compression relay out. Lol
Hmm, I thought you lubricate the new fuel injector with some engine oil or similar before installation
Nice process of cleaning out some of the carbon buildup of the intake valves with brake cleaner and air blasts
White paint marker on front of your boxes with tools marked would help others know what is in what box.
I experienced a once in a career situation concerning a low compression misfire. Compression in one cylinder very low. Added oil for wet test and compression normal. Typical indication of ring or cylinder wall issue. However miss was completely gone when engine restarted. Must have been carbon starting to build up on valve seat that was washed off from the oil.
I boots say Ray, I never would have tackled some of the repairs on my vehicles if it wasn't for your videos. I've been watching you for a while now. And I gotta say if it wasn't for your teachings, I would never have been able to rebuild the brake system on my sons truck or the full suspension rebuild on my own truck. I always saw it as a scary projects that I was always afraid of. But watching you has given me more confidence in myself to realize that it is like an onion and all I had to do was slow down, think it through and everything will work out fine. It turns out now that all those big projects are really not that big. Sure it took me four days to redo the suspension on my truck, but I'm also fifty with health issues. Being disabled tends to slow things down, but I can't afford a pro machanic. Plus I don't have a lift either, so all my work is done with floor jacks and sitting on the floor. But, thanks ray for all your inspiration. It's making me into a better machanic.
Did you get the light that fell between the trans and firewall????
yo ray I just watched a video and this guy was talking about you and said that you deserve more attention than you have and was saying a lot of good stuff about you. the channel is Tube Money Analytics. keep up the good work
Gotta love that TIPM Module (fuse box)!
Worked for Chrysler warranty for a while. Saw these engine failures daily. The 3.6 should be a boat anchor.
Man I wish you were in my state! I have a oil leak and nobody wants to work on it and i like my car and don’t want to get rid of it.
“My hose is too stiff” 😂 That’s usually not a problem!
i too enjoy a good denial phase when i find low compression
My Brother in laws Torrent has a misfire on cylinder 1 at startup. I fired the parts cannon at it with changing the coil, wire, and pcv hose since it was broken. Flushed the system with seafoam. Now it just misfires at startup but goes away.
You are fixing all the problem vehicles in Tampa, apparently. Local shops get stumped, and you diagnose the problem. Nice !
However, it still a Chrysler, bruh...😂
10:22 "THERES OUR COIL" LOL WORDS... FAIL.. GRAVITY!!!
May I ? The correct method of doing a wet/dry compression test is to remove ALL spark plugs, hold the throttle body valve open, insert the tester in #1 and crank it. Record the result and repeat for the remaining cylinders. Put a squirt of oil in #1 and record the pressure. Repeat for remaining cylinders. If you don't do this you will have erroneous readings as you are pulling a vacuum on the intake.
Compare the pressures. These should be the CR (compression ratio) x 14.2 (one atmosphere). They should agree within 10%. If a dry < wet, it's a valve related problem, if wet > dry, it's rings.
You were 100% correct to suspect a Comp. Test error and replace an injector as these things are infamous for failure. Because it's a Chrysler, I'd have done ALL plugs coils and injectors, but many customers won't spring for that I understand.
That compression is unusually low Ray, a yourube channel called The Online Mechanic deals with that 3.6 pentastar. Most common issues is the rocker arms causing the lower compressions or the variable cam phasors sticking from the solenoids being gunked up. I noticed same low compression across each cylinder
I hope Ray reads these comments or checks out Service Data or Intellifix before calling this fixed.
Ray what's the deal with the 'Off-duty promotion?
Chrysler tech line only uses a cylinder leak down test on compression test
I love longer videos you learn more about what's wrong and how to fix
Did u ever get that bolt out which u saw
would have been interesting to see another compression test after the cleaning
But a proper compression test by taking all of the plugs out.
Ray, your trouble shooting skills are amazing!
Good to wait for traffic, but also traffic should not change lanes at an intersection
Good Diag. but I'm surprised you didn't change the oil with a leaky injector ?
I was always taught that when you do a compression test, you should have all the spark plugs out and the throttle plate, wide-open and crank for three seconds. But I’m sure that engine is shot anyways
So what caused the injury to the engine…getting too hot, and running hot? Or is it just because it’s a Pentastar?
I hope you sold him the BG fuel additive and injector cleaning as well.
I notice excessive manual ratcheting going on in wide open spaces, it caused me to have mis-fires also............
I would run an intake clean spray such as Subaru top end cleaner if available in the states to see if I clears up all that carbon and restores some comp on cylinder3. The Subaru spray works wonders. Make sure it’s done outside though
Ray revert to old school mechanics, compression 1. add a dab of atf to the cylinder no change? suspect valves, now run a leak down test, all guessing is over, you can prove its going past rings, or past the valves, intake exhaust or both...
Great video McFly somehow it al will seem familiair to you with all that timetravelling.
Ray, as I understand it, a valid compression test requires that all spark plugs be removed and the throttle plate propped open. Restrictions on the incoming air can contribute to low compression readings.
Notice. He did a comparison check so you’re opinion is not valid.
Deja Vu Here, Just tested compression on the same cylinder with the same tool on the same van... It was low aswell....
very interesting ,,glad to see you make the effort to test n verify ,,thanks
I’m curious if you thought of doing a leak down test in the affected cylinder head
My Neon started running real rough on my way home not long ago. Watched the fuel gauge physically moving for the rest of the 15 mile highway trip. Over a quarter tank for that distance. Guess what I found? A fuel injector leaking, so bad, I could blow through it with little restriction. Went almost normal at full throttle, with the extra air flowing in though 😂
Why don’t you put pressure in to the cylinder and see if the valves leak
Did you retrieve the “random bolt”?
Most scan tools can do injector leak test ?
I would love to know what their oil change intervals were and if that might have contributed to this issue. That's a lot of miles for a relatively new minivan. I have a 2011 Chrysler minivan with only 74,000 miles and have had NO issues and I change the oil every 4K miles. These engine are not forgiving and need regular maintenance.
Boy, I cant tell you how many time I got a job where parts had come in for a job that a junior mech had ordered these parts & I blindly install the parts as I had been told to do & it did not fix the problem. I suspect the junior mech hit a brickwall & instead of asking for help he just ordered parts & let someone else finish the job.
!
23:12 Wow, 100k miles and it has low compression on a cylinder if that isn't a manfacturing defect I dont know what is?
3.6 is a junk motor
If the injector is leaking it will wash the cyl down and cause low compression,put some atf in the hole than retest
I wonder if the newer Chrysler vehicles have a compression test function like the newer GMs - my wife's '15 Malibu has it and using GDS2, you can command a compression test were it'll shut down spark and fuel and crank the engine for a specific length of time. Works really well IMO.
I’ve heard of you hold the throttle pined they will do that never actually verified it though I also wondered if it could show low if the throttle body is restricting air to make compression
@mitchharris97 Well, technically, you're supposed to hold the throttle down to open the throttlebody when doing a compression test, which I don't think was done here, but because it was the same for all three cylinders tested, I would say it doesn't invalidate the results (and to be honest, pretty much every time I've done a compression test, I've forgotten that part). The good cylinders did seem to build up pressure kind of slowly, but they got there, whereas #3 did not. The specs I've seen typically say no cylinder should be less than 100PSI and the variation between the highest and lowest should be no more than 10%. Re-running the test with the TB wide open MIGHT increase the compression numbers, but even if it did, I suspect #3 would still fail on the no more than 10% variation spec if it did manage to get over 100PSI. There definitely seems to be something wrong with #3, and since there was no meaningful improvement after Ray put some oil in the cylinder, I'd say the issue is in the head, or MAYBE the head gasket.
Something to watch on my way to work.
Will eventually do plugs and maybe coils why I'm there in Promaster self-made camper by 80-90K. Know you have to tear apart intake and hard to reach stuff in the rear, nice to see it done with all the plastic. Bought the van with codes reset on a bad coil that revealed itself on the trip home, the used car dealer replaced it, it only acted up when it got warm on a warm day and bought it in the spring with temps during short test drives in the 50s.
Could the smoke be the oil you added to cylinder for wet test. Looked like you spilled some
One thing on the CDJR vehicles you should be able to hold the throttle down 100% and allow cranking.
Clear flood mode…k car had it
104th! GOOD THURSDAY MORNING RAY AND THE WIFE UNIT! And happy day after HUMPDAY to the two new employees! Roger in Pierre South Dakota
Good afternoon Ray looking forward to this one. Tom. UK
Didn't see you reconnect the bracket under the EGR???
Pentistar has VVT. A bad actuator could prevent valves sealing if broken.
I really enjoy your diagnostic process
A bad coil could also leave the spark plug and cylinder wet with gas. A bad fuel injector could also cause it, but it is cheaper to replace the coil, unless you are counting on the previous shop diagnosing the correct cylinder.
Proof positive method of looking for blown head gasket (chamber to cooling jacket), remove all coils, remove all but 1 plug, fill radiator to top, turn engine over. Bubbles at radiator fill hole = blown gasket at that cyl. Move the plug to next cylinder, check again. When all cyls checked, you will know if you saw any bubbles, which, if any, cyl, has a blown partition in the gasket. Barring coolant in the pan, or oil in the radiator...
Had a friend with similar issues on a Jeep--It seems like the Pentastar 3.6 has some problem. There's a lemon law class-action suit in CA complaining that "several engine components fail prematurely and cause problems with opening and closing the valves. The lawsuit claims the rocker arms and lifters to be defective and alleges problems with the engine control module software, which controls the timing and function of the lifters."
Negative the pentastar does not have any issues. Class action lawsuits almost always get tossed out for being shit.
Or settles without having to admit anything is wrong--- The US Southern District of California Case No.: 3:17-CV-02594-JO-AHG was specifically for Pacifica between 2017 and 2021 and it was settled. These scenarios do happen but it's generally not within a manufacturer's best interest to admit fault.
i have a question on a 2018 chevy silverrod it shakes in the cab but not in the streeing wheel. at around 80 mph. maybe u joints in drive shaft my guess. ??? help.
Not sure if you know but a regular tire Schrader valve will give a lower reading than the kind ment for a compression tester. Those are lower tension valves
Correct. Standard tire Schrader will give much lower readings. A comparison by feel of how hard it is to compress the springs in each will demonstrate the difference.
Ray, I'm working on swapping out a 5.3 because of a bad injector. Stuck open while the truck sat overnight, piston was at the bottom of the compression stroke and the cylinder filled with raw fuel. He went to start it the next morning and bang. New engine. Bend the rod, damaged the piston. So if the injector in that Pacifica was bad, it's possible it hurt a valve or piston.
Was it the 5.3 vortec that bent a rod?
As soon as you start the engine, there is still the added oil to the cylinder number three that is sealing the piston ring. You will continue to have a higher compression pressure until the added oil is burned off.
Wonder what the fuel pressure looked like when you shut it down.
But the question still looms why the low compression on cylinder three.