from 7:47 to 9:30 ish you don't necessarily need grease to pop them out, i used a dental-tool-ish tool with a close to 90 degree angle on the one end, press the thing in the middle out of the way and the maneuver the tool end under the cylinder then gently pull it out enough to grab with fingers and then pull out fully
Thanks so much! The lines connect to a block mounted on the transom plate. Next to impossible to remove with the engine installed. You can see it here: ua-cam.com/video/VHNBhKSq3l0/v-deo.html
Mike, thank you so much for posting these videos! I have a 96 4.3 Volvo Penta with the SX outdrive. It being 22 years old now these videos will probably save me and many others thousands of dollars! Anyways, where did you purchase this seal kit? I’ve been searching the internet for a while and it’s looking like it has been discontinued.. Thanks in advance.
Hi thanks for your videos. I have a Daddy King Cobra 5.7 and my leg drops down over night. I have also been searching high and low for the pump deal kit but Crowley say they currently out of stock. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Mick from Zimbabwe
@@michaelromer2016 Thank you so much for your easy to follow, very professional content! Like others in this thread, I cannot find the seal kit for this trim tilt pump. I went to the link you provided but it said it’s no longer available. Anyway, my tilt pump is working but is getting noisy and seems to have some air blow-by. There also seems to be a minor leak. Should I just add more fluid or begin considering a newer style pump? Is that even possible? My boat is a 1997 Glastron SE 195 Penta 4.3 GL w/SX outdrive. Thanks for your wisdom!
Mike, great video! I rebuilt my pump and replaced the check valves. Only problem is nothing goes up or down! The pump runs, but no pressure to lift lower unit. I tried bleeding the lines, nothing is coming out. Any ideas? I'd like to kill the installer of this pump. It's behind the motor and under the live well!
It sounds like your issue isn't with your pump. Unfortunately, when there is a leak down scenario--it's a 50/50 chance of being the pump, or the hydraulic trim/tilt cylinders & hoses. Please watch this video and let me know the results: ua-cam.com/video/etm719fW0c0/v-deo.html The cost to test the other parts are very cheap.
Great video but i have a question. Once put back together how do you make sure the fluid level is correct? I have seen some post that say with the trim all the way up and i have seen some that say check it with trim down. I assume you the fluid level is just even with the plug on the side correct?
Thomas McGregor The reservoir should be filled in the full up position. There's likely a ton of pressure in the reservoir when your stern drive is down towards the ground. Opening the fill reservoir cap in the down position is likely to cause a rapid loss of pressure and one heck of a mess. Filling is complete when it's right to when fluid drips out of the fill hole. Do not attempt to overfill the reservoir. Make sure the reservoir is filled in its final operation position (as seen in 0:03). You need to cycle the trim full up and down and listen for a varying audible pitch from the reservoir during up and down operation. Varying audible pitches during trim operation is a sign of air and/or low fluid in the reservoir. You should only have to add fluid once in the case of a low fluid condition--chances any remaining varying audible pitches means air in the system. Cycle system up and down to move air to the reservoir, then bleed air out in the full up position.
This is the exact same trim pump I have on my 1998 Cobalt 200. The breaker on the side of the pump keeps flipping when activating the trim switch. I have to push it back in constantly to use the trim again. What would you recommend I do?
There is strain on the trim pump motor. I normal replace the older motors first. If the issue continues, you need to check for air in the system and/or add more fluid. Please hit that subscribe button!
Hi Mike When you take the lines off the pump, does the drive have to be in the full up position? This, I believe when there is no pressure on the pump? If so I gather it must be supported in the up position by some wood etc?? Thanks
Adsb Adsb I ran the tilt all the way up to the point where the rods were fully extended to relieve the pressure. Support with wood and a secondary backup like rope or a ratchet strap.
Michael Thank you for the video. Well done. I think this is what my boat needs? last season the out drive would creep down about an inch in five days while on trailer. No visible leaks at lift pistons or at the pump. Am I on right track??Any chance of printing the pages or getting a copy from you via a private message? I have not put my boat in as yet due to illness, but hoping soon to. and maybe I need to do as your video explains. Thanks ron
Adsb Adsb Best thing to do is spend an hour rebuilding the tilt trim pump and also remove the 2 cylinders and rebuild them too. The rebuild kit for the cylinders are $40 each (9 seals per cylinder). I recommend replacing both cylinders along with the tilt trim pump seals. I'll have a video on how to rebuild the OMC tilt/trim cylinders very soon.
i'd guess you have some kind of junk in the tube that is stopping a seal or valve from fully closing, i had shards off a stripped pump reservoir plug, kinda like toe nail clippings, that were the problem, took the pump all apart, removed everything i could get at, found lots of these shards, discarded them, put back to together, works 110% now
Michael thanks for the video it has helped a lot. i replaced the o rings you showed on the video. I was looking at the diagram for the pump and noticed 2 o rings i did not see on your video nor can i find on my old pump. the item number on the diagram is # 27. o ring piston pump control. can you tell me where they go? Thanks
I may have figured it out. on my pump diagram pump# 985846 crowley marine diagram item 27 is listed under item 26. item 26 requires no o ring. under the pump diagram that you mention below item 27 is listed over by # 40 which makes more since and you do show on your video. I guess there was a error on my diagram.
I have a spare trim pump. I was thinking about taking it apart and measuring the various sizes. If you need a solution now, buy these: www.amazon.com/Neiko-50443A-Universal-Assortment-407-Piece/dp/B000OMKIDI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1534653087&sr=8-3&keywords=orings+sae+kit
Hi tx for the vid! - any idea what the wire colors are that come from the control to the motor? Just finished a repower on a 4.3 and the trim tilt doesnt do anything, up or down-
Fstarocka Burns Considering the pump worked before, check the following: There are typically 50 amp breakers that are connected to your exhaust manifold--make sure they aren't tripped. When you use the trim up and down button, if you hear a click, you may have a wiring issue, or a bad pump motor. I've seen it happen after a rebuild. The wiring is as follows: 5 terminals on the left, 2 on the right. Check for 13 volts on the right 2 terminals. Keep reading if you have 13 volts, otherwise go back to your fuses. On the left, check to make sure the wires all in order. I will read them from top to bottom: solid green, green/white, solid red, solid blue, blue/white. As a last ditch effort, flip the trim tilt unit upside down and remove the 3 screws holding the motor to the unit. With everything still upside down and the motor in one hand, the trim unit in the other, have a friend use the trim up/down button, and see if the motor spins. If it spins, reassembly.
Hi-i rant he tests and found ground was very low, lo and behold found a ground wire dangling around the back I forgot to put back in with engine swap - oh well! than ks for the answer and helpful vid!
Hey Michael. I don't have a manual relief valve on my pump. However, I have a screw type cylinder accessible once the motor is removed. I did unscrew that valve, but the 2 parts will not separate. Ther appear to be a seal at the bottom. What is this valve for?
That is a good question--I'm not sure. What I can tell you is if the physical pump looks like this one, it will have nearly the same internal parts. I found they used this same model, in various shapes, for well over 10 years. It's a very robust pump.
You've come to the right place! Check out this site. For Volvo, look up OMC Stern Drive for the years of 94 and up: www.crowleymarine.com/omc_parts.html
Thank you Michael. I seen that one, but it is no longer available. I have checked everywhere and no one has them. I think my only option is to retro fit a another type of unit.
Wow, yea, the kit is nearly impossible to find. I did see a few other places that might have it. Let's break down what you actually need though from the "kit." Most the o-rings that need to be replaced can be found in what they call an o-ring assortment kit. www.amazon.com/GRIP-43242-779-Ring-Assortment/dp/B073V9R3FJ/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1528998340&sr=8-9&keywords=o-ring+assortment
This particular kit 3854397 apparently has been discontinued. The new kit 985060 only has 9 o-rings instead of the 11 in the original kit. Where can I get the kit that has all 11 o-rings?
Jim Sykes Others have mentioned having the same problem of saying it's discontinued. Best thing to do is buy an assortment of o-rings and try to match them up that way. Or look for the individual o-rings from Crowley Marine.
John Henne I’ve seen this one before and it resemble similar steps like you see in my video. Once you remove the reservoir. The process to repair the valve body will be nearly identical. What year is your setup?
2004 four Winn’s 268 w 5.7 penta. I have hyd engineering background but like to have exploded parts list. If not , I will dive in and get o rings from Parker or CR. Would like your input.
well you didn't show how the two small pistons in the pump housing the two that are the same size and one of them has a check ball and which is the top and bottom of the pistons and which end goes in first and which side the check ball is in?
Thats what I did Mike thenks. Just couldnt figure how to enlarge the diagram.. I got it together, getting the little berrings to stay in was a pain, good idea on putting it on its side. Great vidros!
Hi Mike thanks for this video, can you tell me how to test the motor? Mine just stopped working completely suddenly no clicks at all. I don't want to replace the relay yet bc it is $300 bucks, do I put a positive jumper to one lead on the motor IE green wire and Neg to the blue? I tried just grounding my jumper cable to the block and positive to Green or Blue and nothing.
You need to unscrew the motor from pump and see if it turns with power connected. Also you can put your hand on it and it will get warm too sometimes if it is burned out. Just try clicking it up and down for like 30 seconds, run back there and grab the motor. If it’s hot, your pump might be binding the motor up.
@@michaelromer2016 thanks Mike, so can I pull the motor off without disconnecting the hyd. lines? Also can I jump the motor directly with a positive and Neg jumper off the battery to two leads on the motor?
@@michaelromer2016 So I pulled the motor and it does spin with direct power. With everything hooked up in the boat I get no power to the two main motor leads when hitting the tilt button, but get about 4v to the two relay leads when the tilt switch is activated. Does that mean my 10amp breaker is bad?
There's a red cap--you fill it from there. To bleed it, raise the stern drive up and down and release air in the system from the red cap every full and down iteration. Never overfill or there will be an explosion.
Do you remove the red plug fully to bleed air out Will that stop the whining noise when I tilt down And you only fill it up until it starts seeping out again ????
Thanks Michael - great vid - keep em coming - need all the help I can get (as most Cobra owners do!)
genhydro I'm planning on uploading two more this week. One showing how to bleed the trim tilt system.
Michael, do you have a video of replacing the four trim/tilt hoses from the transom to the trim cylinders?
Thank you.
from 7:47 to 9:30 ish you don't necessarily need grease to pop them out, i used a dental-tool-ish tool with a close to 90 degree angle on the one end, press the thing in the middle out of the way and the maneuver the tool end under the cylinder then gently pull it out enough to grab with fingers and then pull out fully
Great comment! I have also used compressed air another time myself. There are many ways to get it out.
Hey Mike appreciate the videos but where did you take the motor from mine is croded so i need to take it out
love all your videos ,do the lines coming off the pump go thru the transom to a conection block or is there a connection point on motor side?
Thanks so much! The lines connect to a block mounted on the transom plate. Next to impossible to remove with the engine installed. You can see it here: ua-cam.com/video/VHNBhKSq3l0/v-deo.html
So did you clean out the grease with brake parts cleaner or is that a bad idea?
Mike, thank you so much for posting these videos! I have a 96 4.3 Volvo Penta with the SX outdrive. It being 22 years old now these videos will probably save me and many others thousands of dollars! Anyways, where did you purchase this seal kit? I’ve been searching the internet for a while and it’s looking like it has been discontinued.. Thanks in advance.
Go here and use OMC since Volvo isn't listed. The trim pump is the same either way. www.crowleymarine.com/parts.html
Hi thanks for your videos. I have a Daddy King Cobra 5.7 and my leg drops down over night. I have also been searching high and low for the pump deal kit but Crowley say they currently out of stock. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Mick from Zimbabwe
@@michaelromer2016 Thank you so much for your easy to follow, very professional content! Like others in this thread, I cannot find the seal kit for this trim tilt pump. I went to the link you provided but it said it’s no longer available. Anyway, my tilt pump is working but is getting noisy and seems to have some air blow-by. There also seems to be a minor leak. Should I just add more fluid or begin considering a newer style pump? Is that even possible? My boat is a 1997 Glastron SE 195 Penta 4.3 GL w/SX outdrive. Thanks for your wisdom!
Mike, great video! I rebuilt my pump and replaced the check valves. Only problem is nothing goes up or down! The pump runs, but no pressure to lift lower unit. I tried bleeding the lines, nothing is coming out. Any ideas?
I'd like to kill the installer of this pump. It's behind the motor and under the live well!
It sounds like your issue isn't with your pump. Unfortunately, when there is a leak down scenario--it's a 50/50 chance of being the pump, or the hydraulic trim/tilt cylinders & hoses. Please watch this video and let me know the results: ua-cam.com/video/etm719fW0c0/v-deo.html The cost to test the other parts are very cheap.
Great video but i have a question. Once put back together how do you make sure the fluid level is correct? I have seen some post that say with the trim all the way up and i have seen some that say check it with trim down. I assume you the fluid level is just even with the plug on the side correct?
Thomas McGregor The reservoir should be filled in the full up position. There's likely a ton of pressure in the reservoir when your stern drive is down towards the ground. Opening the fill reservoir cap in the down position is likely to cause a rapid loss of pressure and one heck of a mess. Filling is complete when it's right to when fluid drips out of the fill hole. Do not attempt to overfill the reservoir. Make sure the reservoir is filled in its final operation position (as seen in 0:03). You need to cycle the trim full up and down and listen for a varying audible pitch from the reservoir during up and down operation. Varying audible pitches during trim operation is a sign of air and/or low fluid in the reservoir. You should only have to add fluid once in the case of a low fluid condition--chances any remaining varying audible pitches means air in the system. Cycle system up and down to move air to the reservoir, then bleed air out in the full up position.
Thomas McGregor Sounds like you may also have air in the system. Watch my other videos as I cover troubleshooting these issues in great detail.
This is the exact same trim pump I have on my 1998 Cobalt 200. The breaker on the side of the pump keeps flipping when activating the trim switch. I have to push it back in constantly to use the trim again. What would you recommend I do?
There is strain on the trim pump motor. I normal replace the older motors first. If the issue continues, you need to check for air in the system and/or add more fluid. Please hit that subscribe button!
Hi Mike When you take the lines off the pump, does the drive have to be in the full up position? This, I believe when there is no pressure on the pump? If so I gather it must be supported in the up position by some wood etc?? Thanks
Adsb Adsb I ran the tilt all the way up to the point where the rods were fully extended to relieve the pressure. Support with wood and a secondary backup like rope or a ratchet strap.
Thanks Michael
Michael Thank you for the video. Well done. I think this is what my boat needs? last season the out drive would creep down about an inch in five days while on trailer. No visible leaks at lift pistons or at the pump. Am I on right track??Any chance of printing the pages or getting a copy from you via a private message? I have not put my boat in as yet due to illness, but hoping soon to. and maybe I need to do as your video explains. Thanks ron
Adsb Adsb Best thing to do is spend an hour rebuilding the tilt trim pump and also remove the 2 cylinders and rebuild them too. The rebuild kit for the cylinders are $40 each (9 seals per cylinder). I recommend replacing both cylinders along with the tilt trim pump seals. I'll have a video on how to rebuild the OMC tilt/trim cylinders very soon.
i'd guess you have some kind of junk in the tube that is stopping a seal or valve from fully closing, i had shards off a stripped pump reservoir plug, kinda like toe nail clippings, that were the problem, took the pump all apart, removed everything i could get at, found lots of these shards, discarded them, put back to together, works 110% now
Michael thanks for the video it has helped a lot. i replaced the o rings you showed on the video. I was looking at the diagram for the pump and noticed 2 o rings i did not see on your video nor can i find on my old pump. the item number on the diagram is # 27. o ring piston pump control. can you tell me where they go? Thanks
I may have figured it out. on my pump diagram pump# 985846 crowley marine diagram item 27 is listed under item 26. item 26 requires no o ring. under the pump diagram that you mention below item 27 is listed over by # 40 which makes more since and you do show on your video. I guess there was a error on my diagram.
Awesome! Glad you went to Crowley to investigate
Hello mike Do the o rings have sizes im trying to buy them separately since i cant find a complete kit
I have a spare trim pump. I was thinking about taking it apart and measuring the various sizes. If you need a solution now, buy these: www.amazon.com/Neiko-50443A-Universal-Assortment-407-Piece/dp/B000OMKIDI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1534653087&sr=8-3&keywords=orings+sae+kit
Hi tx for the vid! - any idea what the wire colors are that come from the control to the motor? Just finished a repower on a 4.3 and the trim tilt doesnt do anything, up or down-
Fstarocka Burns Considering the pump worked before, check the following: There are typically 50 amp breakers that are connected to your exhaust manifold--make sure they aren't tripped. When you use the trim up and down button, if you hear a click, you may have a wiring issue, or a bad pump motor. I've seen it happen after a rebuild. The wiring is as follows: 5 terminals on the left, 2 on the right. Check for 13 volts on the right 2 terminals. Keep reading if you have 13 volts, otherwise go back to your fuses. On the left, check to make sure the wires all in order. I will read them from top to bottom: solid green, green/white, solid red, solid blue, blue/white. As a last ditch effort, flip the trim tilt unit upside down and remove the 3 screws holding the motor to the unit. With everything still upside down and the motor in one hand, the trim unit in the other, have a friend use the trim up/down button, and see if the motor spins. If it spins, reassembly.
Hi-i rant he tests and found ground was very low, lo and behold found a ground wire dangling around the back I forgot to put back in with engine swap - oh well! than ks for the answer and helpful vid!
Fstarocka Burns I tell you what, those grounds can be a real pain sometimes to track down! Great work!
Hey Michael. I don't have a manual relief valve on my pump. However, I have a screw type cylinder accessible once the motor is removed. I did unscrew that valve, but the 2 parts will not separate. Ther appear to be a seal at the bottom. What is this valve for?
What model number pump do you have? What year is your boat?
@@michaelromer2016 1997, SAE J1171
Do the later model (2004) sx drive tilt and trim pumps get rebuilt in the same way and do you have a parts kit reference?
That is a good question--I'm not sure. What I can tell you is if the physical pump looks like this one, it will have nearly the same internal parts. I found they used this same model, in various shapes, for well over 10 years. It's a very robust pump.
Michael Romer thank you!
Where did you buy the rebuild kit?
I’ve searched online and called my local marine shop and no one has any or can order it.
Thanks for the help!
You've come to the right place! Check out this site. For Volvo, look up OMC Stern Drive for the years of 94 and up: www.crowleymarine.com/omc_parts.html
Great videos ! Do you have any idea where I might find the rebuild kit for a 1992 ? Crowley does not have them.
Take a look at this one: www.crowleymarine.com/parts/2051.cfm Item 83
Thank you Michael. I seen that one, but it is no longer available. I have checked everywhere and no one has them.
I think my only option is to retro fit a another type of unit.
Wow, yea, the kit is nearly impossible to find. I did see a few other places that might have it. Let's break down what you actually need though from the "kit." Most the o-rings that need to be replaced can be found in what they call an o-ring assortment kit. www.amazon.com/GRIP-43242-779-Ring-Assortment/dp/B073V9R3FJ/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1528998340&sr=8-9&keywords=o-ring+assortment
This particular kit 3854397 apparently has been discontinued. The new kit 985060 only has 9 o-rings instead of the 11 in the original kit. Where can I get the kit that has all 11 o-rings?
Jim Sykes Others have mentioned having the same problem of saying it's discontinued. Best thing to do is buy an assortment of o-rings and try to match them up that way. Or look for the individual o-rings from Crowley Marine.
Note that this new kit 985060 mentioned above is for the cylinders and not the pump kit.
What fluid is it in ?
Do you have info on rebuilding a 3587079 omg Volvo penta trim pump? Can’t find info anywhere.
John Henne I’ve seen this one before and it resemble similar steps like you see in my video. Once you remove the reservoir. The process to repair the valve body will be nearly identical. What year is your setup?
2004 four Winn’s 268 w 5.7 penta. I have hyd engineering background but like to have exploded parts list. If not , I will dive in and get o rings from Parker or CR. Would like your input.
Thanks for your comments! Hit that subscribe button please! Take a look at this: www.crowleymarine.com/johnson-evinrude/parts/56224.cfm
well you didn't show how the two small pistons in the pump housing the two that are the same size and one of them has a check ball and which is the top and bottom of the pistons and which end goes in first and which side the check ball is in?
Having the same question? did you get it together?
Mark Tassone take a look at the parts diagram www.crowleymarine.com/
Take a look at the parts diagram www.crowleymarine.com/
Thats what I did Mike thenks. Just couldnt figure how to enlarge the diagram.. I got it together, getting the little berrings to stay in was a pain, good idea on putting it on its side. Great vidros!
Нештяк
Please subscribe!
Hi Mike thanks for this video, can you tell me how to test the motor? Mine just stopped working completely suddenly no clicks at all. I don't want to replace the relay yet bc it is $300 bucks, do I put a positive jumper to one lead on the motor IE green wire and Neg to the blue? I tried just grounding my jumper cable to the block and positive to Green or Blue and nothing.
You need to unscrew the motor from pump and see if it turns with power connected. Also you can put your hand on it and it will get warm too sometimes if it is burned out. Just try clicking it up and down for like 30 seconds, run back there and grab the motor. If it’s hot, your pump might be binding the motor up.
@@michaelromer2016 thanks Mike, so can I pull the motor off without disconnecting the hyd. lines? Also can I jump the motor directly with a positive and Neg jumper off the battery to two leads on the motor?
@@michaelromer2016 So I pulled the motor and it does spin with direct power. With everything hooked up in the boat I get no power to the two main motor leads when hitting the tilt button, but get about 4v to the two relay leads when the tilt switch is activated. Does that mean my 10amp breaker is bad?
do you have a site I can find this on. being this video is 5years old. ive looked up the number and everywhere is sold out or not making it
Check this out How-to Find Boat Parts
ua-cam.com/video/puB1Ew17mNI/v-deo.html
Which way do you put the piston with the ball bearings
At 5.55
Hello friend, do you have a link to purchase the kit?
Check this out How-to Find Boat Parts
ua-cam.com/video/puB1Ew17mNI/v-deo.html
Can anyone help with where I can get the rebuild kit from?
Check out this video: How-to Find Boat Parts
ua-cam.com/video/puB1Ew17mNI/v-deo.html please subscribe!
What is the part number for that kit?
Check this out How-to Find Boat Parts
ua-cam.com/video/puB1Ew17mNI/v-deo.html
How do u fill and bleed
There's a red cap--you fill it from there. To bleed it, raise the stern drive up and down and release air in the system from the red cap every full and down iteration. Never overfill or there will be an explosion.
Do you remove the red plug fully to bleed air out
Will that stop the whining noise when I tilt down
And you only fill it up until it starts seeping out again
????
It just started whining real bad tilting down
Tilting up is fine
Do you have any suggestions to get it to stop
Anybody know the part number for that rebuild kit?
Check this out How-to Find Boat Parts
ua-cam.com/video/puB1Ew17mNI/v-deo.html