Finding Out Why Our Crosstrek Blew Up! Engine Tear Down and Diagnosis.
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- Опубліковано 7 вер 2024
- We dig into the dead motor from our 2013 Subaru Crosstrek with 120K miles. From the sounds of it, my best guess was bottom end damage. Time to tear it down and find out!
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You guys made me realize I didn't give the macro shots an autopsy of this caliber deserves, so I posted some photos on the patreon for free if you're an inquisitive soul.
I watched start to finish: Did you happen to check timing before teardown? These engine make an absolute racket if the timing chain tensioner doesn't hold pressure. Sometimes it lets the chains flop around and it doesn't even skip timing but it's almost always at cold start as pressure is supposed to build up in the tensioner (should retain tension but they fail)
Judging by those bearings they were not the failure and don't really fail in that way all of a sudden anyway.
One of my viewers asked me to look at this video.
I’ve opened and fixed hundreds of these engines.
Based on visual observations I say you run your oil change intervals are too long, the oil used is not good enough, and that FRAM filter needs to go.
Cheap filters, after a few thousand miles, can accidentally go into “bypass mode” upon cold start
FYI: engine braking will chew up oil
Good luck with the build
Dang, so you're saying i need to lay off the heel-toe in the family car?
Thanks for taking a look! Yeah a lot of people are putting me on blast for the Fram. I've learned my lesson haha definitely won't be running them once we put a motor in I actually care about.
So would a highflow oil pump be highly recommended?
As soon as I saw your dog in the shop, I had to smile knowing what was coming up. I had just drained my oil out of my 4wd truck when my Springer stepped into the full oil pan of oil and then tipped it over while I was still under the truck. She's covered with oil; I'm now laying in a giant pool of old oil, and she is trying to shake off the oil and it was going everywhere in my garage and on my truck.
Oily colored memories , of the way we were.
😂😂
Yep, I saw that coming too. My Aussie hates any and all power tools, lawn mowers and tractor. If I get near the tractor he starts biting the wheels haha. You gotta love them though, they are protecting you.😀
17:47 *Dog jumps up and knocks over the oil pan* Ah yes, life with dogs, endlessly exciting!
Really enjoyed this engine teardown! You make it look so easy! I remember doing the head gaskets on my 2003 Forester and thought it was a bear to figure out how to take apart and put together. Granted, that was the first engine that I've ever had down to the short block. Now that I've seen this one done, makes me think I'll be okay to do my newer FB25 Forester over a weekend or two.
I have no suggestions regarding upgrades, since I'm more of the boring "leave it stock" type of person. I don't have the disposable income to be fixing non-stock vehicles when they break down and keeping things stock makes things easier down the road for me.
If I recall correctly, the FA 2.0L WRX/Forester XT engine should fit into these... Although, you'd probably need to change a bunch more than just the engine: tranny, drive shaft, differentials, etc. I'm not sure what works and what doesn't in the newer non-EJ things. Probably wouldn't be worth it for me for an off-road vehicle.
I do find it odd that you only got 120k out of this engine though. I'm a recent subscriber, so I'm not sure if you've owned this vehicle since new, but I haven't heard of too many bottom end issues with the FB20 engines other than oil consumption in the early 2010s.
That's sick man! And we definitely didn't buy it new. We bought it at 102k miles and it has eaten some oil the whole time. I suspect it has a bit of a rough life before us.
And I hear you on keeping it stock, that's all I've done for my daily drivers. This being our family car makes me wanna keep it stock and have it easier to resale if we change cars. But then again I'm posting it on youtube and I understand stock is a bit boring to watch for some. Plus this motor is so gutless haha
1: oil change intervals are for dealers and are based on the engine being designed to last the life of the warranty. CHANGE IT SOONER TO HAVE THE ENGINE LAST LONGER. Use Wix filters (same internal spec as Subaru OEM filters}
2: the PCV system on all of these FB engines needs to be serviced regularly to prevent oil burning and valve contamination
3: the lower passenger side of the timing cover "frets" over time and leaks so take the time to clean and seal well using a high quality gasket maker according to spec
4: your clutch was toast, either high mileage (I see them that bad after 160kms) or too much clutch slipping (inner city driving will do this as well)
5: change your rear main seal while the engine is apart 100%
6: swap to a turbo engine using an entire doner car, been done plenty up in Canada
Ive seen these rod bearings fail so many times theres no way its from owners not changing oil. Theres a problem with subarus oil system somewhere
@@chinchy111 its complicated. Due to their oil system architecture used for the EJ25 engines (pre 2012) if you did not maintain your oil level or your oil lost viscosity (age, PCV contamination, fuel contamination etc) you would see a bearing failure that would not happen on a regular inline 4 cylinder engine. They are not prime to failure if everything is kept in perfect condition but after 5-7 years you start to see high levels of failure due to the above issues. Lack of maintenance really did kill off these engines. I build them for a living 👍
The newer FB/FA family of engines post 2012 that Subaru uses have their own issues including piston rings that fail from day 1 and allow oil to be consumed (sometimes causing lack of oil for rods and it will have bearing failure). Timing chain tensioner failure (the slapping noise on startup is a good indicator)
If you have an audible bearing failure that you can hear while the engine is running then you will 100% find a massive amount of metal contamination in the form of grey oil, metal flakes, chunks in the oil pan (don't reuse oil pan) and a ton in the filter pleats if you take the filter apart to inspect.
That all being said and headgaskets included in the list of aging Subaru issues.... I drive one every day and love what Subaru as made as a product (but none with a CVT, they are terrible)
I had to tell you you are a true genius for a man that never took apart a Subaru engine before so you said you did awesome great skills and talent. Forgot to mention you have patience for this job and you are very nice and humble the way you explained things. Thank you for this video I enjoyed it totally.😁👍
I just wanted to tell you, keep up the great work and great videos you are doing a great job!! I enjoy all your videos, and I can't wait to see the route you go with the trek! I have a 16 crosstrek myself ❤️
You're a little worried now...wait till you have to out it back together. The torque sequencing and specs for the heads are absolute insane. Make sure you do it by the book it's crazy for a reason
Wow! Only 120K miles and that kind of failure? Good to know. I was actually looking at buying a new Crosstrek from an "affordability" standpoint, but maybe I should steer clear of them. The only issues I had with my 81 Subaru was head gasket failures, but that was caused by me being a kid and everything that comes from it.
I think this one was kinda dogged by the previous owner... We have a Crosstrek with the same mileage and it's running great, only thing we've had to do is replace a couple hub bearings.
2016 Crosstrek Premium 5MT with 123k miles on the clock...no issues (e.g., CV axles, wheel hubs, or oil leaks) whatsoever! I did replace a clutch and pressure plate, but only because the throwout bearing was failing at 96k miles. The headlight assemblies were replaced, at year eight of ownership, strictly for cosmetic reasons. The usual service intervals are/were followed accordingly and my engine compartment is kept as clean as the day I purchased the car new. I do use a synthetic engine oil and change it every 5k instead of the recommend 6k. This is easily one of the best vehicles I have ever owned! Just stay on top of general maintenance and oil changes.
Glad you didn't get mad at your border. She was just helping! Looks to me like the oil was very dirty and subbys are somewhat finicky when it comes to clean oil. So, you might be able to polish the crank. Maybe even without splitting the case, but you need a machine shop pro to guide you on that. I would also say 130k miles isn't really high mileage anymore. At least not on an EJ motor, but you do have the newer FB motor so take my observations with a few grains of salt.
Still working through the video, but just wanted to share something I saw recently. Use a milk crate that has slots cut so it slides over the engine stand brace. That will give a bigger spot to have a drain pan sit on.
As far as the loose chain goes, the reason it's loose with the crank in some positions and not others I assume is from the oil-pressure driven tensioners. I've seen the same thing on a couple Audi 4.2 timing chain systems, and you can see the tensioners actuate if you watch carefully while spinning the crank.
Haha every time I see you put the oil pan on that bar I’m like “that’s gonna tip over. 100%” literally was thinking about right when Kora spilt it haha 😂
I KNEW IT!! I knew that oil was going to spill. Lessons learned I hope. Can't blame the dog.
I put in a WRX Engine in my 2013 with exhaust. Forester, what a difference. I have three Foresters, changed two engines. Wrx is the way to go
A Subaru with a engine issue what a surprising situation.
A lot of my customers drive Subies and they love them, but the issues they have are just never ending, engine issues, cat converter issues, oil consumption problems, head gaskets all day long and they rust out like no one’s business at least in my area of the country but they love them, seems like a one way relationship in my opinion
Amen brother. My 1st and last Subaru.
They upgraded the valve springs, they tend to fail on the 2013 Crosstek for some reason. Get the new ones if you tend to rebuild. See VALVE SPRING RECALL - WTY-84R
I think the Oscillation is coming from the Subaru Manual (Viscous Limited Slip) AWD System.
It does that on my WRX as well at low speed. Kinda of a Hopping Motion.
I can get out of it by Clutch In or More Gas.
Also, you might want to touch the gas pedal to disengage the Hill Start Assist, if equipped. As Subaru uses a very rudimentary Hill Start System with the Manual Transmission Manual E-Brake Setup. It sometimes drags quite hard when slipping the clutch.
Would be epic to see a WRX engine swap. Don't know if would impact the rest of the drivetrain needing upgrades. Enjoyed the video!
If you have hot spots on the flywheel and pressure plate, simply replace the entire system. I recommend Exedy for a Subaru; they’ve always performed and lasted a long time and very solid performance in all of my Subarus
I have a 2018 Subaru Outback and have been interested in teardown process (hopefully not for some time). I have a lot of experience with the old air cooled VWs 4 cyl boxer style--this is way more complicated--but doable. :) I bought my Outback used from the dealer with 18k miles. I'm in a warmer climate--south Texas. For my oil I switched to 5w30 from the recommended 0w20 with change interval at 3k miles or so. I may lose a little on fuel economy but my hope is the engine will last longer. I'm kinda old school--the 0w20 seems too thin. With the 5w30 it does run quieter. Thanks for the video. Looking forward to rebuild process.
Sometime after 2017, Subaru redesigned the cylinder sleeves, more robust, and with less deformation at operating temps, resulting in reduced oil consumption and blow-by.
We recommend a 5,000-mile oil change interval unless the owner/operator checks the level and quality often. I know the synthetic oils are supposed to last longer, even when they appear dirty, your choice.
Ive seen these rod bearings fail so many times its not from owners not changing oil it has to be subarus oil delivery system somewhere
@@chinchy111 Could be, but to date, I haven't seen enough to consider it a 'pattern' failure, all I work on is Subaru, since 1997.
Google search 'Subaru TSB 02-157-14R' concerning oil consumption.
Most of our customers come in way past the recommended change interval and most are one to 2 quarts low. There are a lot of contributing factors, from engine design, use, abuse (driving habits), and neglect, to name a few. With newer engines and 0W20 oil, you got to stay on top of it. A lot of folks would rather go to the dentist for a tooth extraction than change their oil & filter.
Most of the oil-related issues I've seen are with customers that bought the car used, cars that came from auctions and ended up on a used car lot, or traded in. Basically, they bought someone else's lemon that is now squeezing them.
Also, there is a software update (a.k.a. Reflash) for 'Improved Oil Level Detection'. The ECM monitors the oil level, averages it, then illuminates the Low Oil Level light in my opinion, when it's too late. Before the Reflash, the oil level was way too low, and after driving that way for thousands of miles, it takes its toll over time and distance.
WOW! seeing that much damage in the con rod bearing would be enough for you to lose oil pressure which on your first video it sounded like you lost pretty well all your compression.
That said - your timing tensioners are oil pressurized, as you showed the play in the chain.
This in turn would add to the engine not starting. Seeing all that carbon on your pistons would have me think your rings are probably stuck. Maybe its time to use a oil catch a can system as it looks like the PVC system is allowing to much crank case vapors to get into the intake. Great video.
There was either a total lack of oil , as mentioned the Fram Oil filter, dirty oil or lack of maintenance . That’s my opinion . Most Subaru engines do not have premature engine failure . Thanks for the video!!
Nice video. I don't own a Subaru but it was really interesting to see this engine tear down.
Also I’ve never seen oil that dark in any of my Subaru’s. You need to switch to Subaru synthetic 0w20 and Subaru filters. Fram has been notorious for having the worst quality oil filters. Hope this helps and steers you away from them. Just check out some mr.Subaru oil filter videos and you will see why..
That's funny. Guess who makes Subaru labeled filters for U.S. Subaru dealers.
@@seandvideo fram. I stick to the black Tokyo Roki filters. Probably should have stated that. If you watch the videos you would know this tho.
How long did you go between oil changes in this engine? The oil you drained out looks like roofing tar.
@@charger19691 that’s what I’m saying. Or maybe it was the oil he used? I know Pennzoil and Valvoline have a tendency to get dark fast due to all of the cleaning detergents in the oil. But this does kind of look way over due..
OEM filters and 0-20 Castrol full syn every 5000 miles. 2018 Outback 2.5
I don't consider 120k high mileage I have 283k on my 2011 Subaru outback.
Me neither….since my Crosstrek is at 118k 😂
i have a 2015 Trek 5sp. Great informational video. fortunatly when i bought my used trek at 74K miles, the dealer (honda), offered a lifetime powertrain warranty. So mines is at 98K miles now. no noticable problems other than uses 1qt oil every 2500 miles. and my HVAC fan switch only operates at position 1, and 3.
Just hearing the beginning reminds me of hot spots on the flywheels of past cars. You can resurface the flywheel.
The entire problem with crosstrek engine failure is the fact that the ecm revs the engine immediately to 2k rpm on startup. No oil pressure and immediately to 2k. Over time it destroys bearings.
My friend bought a new crosstrek a few years ago and I noticed how the ecm started the engine. I knew that over time cold oil starvation would roast the bearings. And yes, now it makes bearing noise.
Unless there is a way to reprogram the ecm, which I doubt, it's going to happen again. Just replace the bearings every 120k and move on.
This is real...and it takes a surprising amount of time before the revs drop to a normal idle.
I've improved things a bit by doing an idle reset.
Ridiculous cars. Have no idea why the average consumer buys. These are hobby cars. AKA money pits.
I've always subscribed to the theory that if there was extra power/efficiency to be had from a motor, most of not all would have been achieved by the manufacturer. They have a strong incentive to show Big Number for hp/torque/mpg. If I had your skills and lots of money, I'd do a WRX engine swap. Not sure how the CVT would like that though lol
It's a manual.
@@ozzierabbit587 Does the wrx not come in a cvt version still?
@@saramae9878 the wrx is available with a beefed up version cvt.
@@saramae9878 the cvt would explode and tuning it would be the hardest part.
I would say they made the minimum amount of engine they could get away with to maximize fuel efficiency and when hitting a specific hp number. Same effect though. There's probably next to no room for bolt on hp gains outside a tune. And that will cause your NOx numbers or whatnot to increase. The days of replacing the crappy OEM crimped exhaust for a more free flowing welded one are long gone.
Woh. Interesting to see the internals on this engine.
just a suggestion i would look into fords 3.7 cyclone engine. 305 hp 280 tq you can find them for 600$-1000$ 30+mpg and crazy reliable. Most under rated engine
so your dog showed you the importance of taking care of the little details. good on the dog.
interesting video. now I see the inside of my engine. thanks dude. simple engine, really.
i would leave it stock, just do a nice clean rebuild 😊
I definitely think there is a Bent valve but also the front passenger rod kinda seems stretched if it hit the head when the engine stopped the starter will stretch the timing chain
Its pretty disappointing to see an engine gone after just 120K miles. My opinion is that you should just a get WRX engine for more power. The WRX engine would have got components that's designed for turbo charged loads. Trying to make big power from an NA engine is like trying to get a plastic straw to lift heavy weights.
There are bolt on FB20 turbos but I think it'll end up costing more than one of the many swap options. Also as you mentioned, these engines seem like a real pain to put together.
Try a 3406B. That is the easy button by comparison...
I just ordered a '23 manual transmission Crosstrek Premium. My understanding is that the engine had some redesigns in some details.
Never owned a Subaru before, hoping for good longevity. I'm planning some long-distance road trips and taking my canine pals with me. Grand Canyon, Banff, Okeechobee....
So glad they're still making manuals! And more inportantly that people like you are buying them.
And yes they moved to direct injection which has its tradeoffs. For you it just mainly means better fuel economy. And main thing with Subaru motors is just making sure you're keeping up on the oil care. Always make sure it has good oil level, change it ontime and use a good filter. Should last you for years to come. 👍
those Subaru oil caps are notorious for allowing oil blow by unless you crank them down with a wrench, that's why the right side of the engine is so dirty. mine was the same way until I realized this, but never cleaned it up from the last owner.
Usually you need to know what you are doing to mess with a subaru engine...Not the easiest... If you have $$$ get a short block... If not then check the mains and replace all bearings/oil pump and go from there... Read the service manual...
Love your dog
without seeing the rest of your video, I have a FB25 motor in a 2012 forester and it has that death rattle from the timing chain tensioner, and apparently its the bottom one. The hydrolic chain tensioner shits itself and thats it.
Hey, I had a 2010 outback with a 2.5 EJ engine and it was binding up with carbon buildup on the piston top, almost a 10th of an inch. This was due to low tension piston rings and blow by forcing oil into the intake like you saw with your venturi plates. replaced the rings and it was all better. I have a 2013 crosstrek and it has the weak rings too, so much blow by it couldn't hold oil, then the same thing except it broke pistons and rings and bearings. Seeing rod bearings 2 and 3, I'd say main bearing number 3 has failed since it supplies oil to those.
Now mine has it has a .50mm overbore late model rings (Subaru got sued over this one) and I'm chasing an oiling problem. Check the carbon on the piston tops and the combustion chambers and split the block and look at #3 main. ;-)
Also, the FB20 is a turkey as far as tuner bits go, and the FA20 is a giant PITA to swap as they are like dogs and cats, good luck.
Hate to break it to you but I don’t think the leaf blower motor will work. But a turbo charged leaf blower.... now that might be an option. Heck maybe you can use another leaf blower to blow air into the system like a turbo. Maybe if we just keep adding leaf blowers we’ll have exponential power!!
You can have the car tuned by BR Tuning. He tuned my turbo Crosstrek! Cool to see this disassembly!
That oil looked pretty dirty for a recent oil change? Great work, info/video! Enjoyed it very much!! A Crosstrek owner.
That oil looked like what comes out of my Duramax, super dark and thick for a gasser supposedly using 0w-20
... pretty sure the 0w-20 being used doesn't have high HTHS (high-temp/high-shear) properties and is also resource conserving which means it thins out to less than a "20 weight" at operating temp. and then some oils just get dark when exposed to heat
I change my Crosstrek oil at 7k mile with Mobil 1 and it never looks that nasty
So I have a 2021 Crosstrek limited it only has 27000 on it I'm getting ready to do the diff front and rear the first one. Hoping to get 200,000 plus out of this car.
Install a 2.5 ltr engine from a forester/outback, should bolt straight up
Nice teardown! I have two 2016's ... so I have a vested interest in this. As part of a followup vid, maybe consider looking up a crate motor from Subaru and doing a cost comparo between a crate motor vs a rebuild. Also, I would be interested to know if these engines can be bored over, stroked, and if more aggressive cam profiles are available. As unfortunate as this engine failure is, it does open up some interesting possibilities! I just subbed, looking forward to your next vids on the Crosstrek!
Also, I've seen ppl join the piston to the connecting rod whilst the piston was in the motor.. yet I saw you remove the piston and rod as one. What gives?
those bearings don't look worn enough to cause a noise from the bottom end
After watching the whole video, and my little knowledge of the FB20 engine, I would say don't rebuild it if you're looking for more power. Maybe go the FB25 route for a little more power or go the FA20 if you want to spend a lot of money since everything else will need to be beefed up.
Assuming the FB25 will fit
@@fredharvey2720 looks like the FB25 is 1.6-2.0" taller and deeper. The stroke is the same so it shouldn't be wider. I've messed with the 16 XV and Impreza a bunch of times. You definitely have space to spare in that engine bay for the depth...the height could be tight, but they probably revised the intake manifold to accommodate the difference. Personally I like the 2018+ a whole lot better. I'd just replace the main bearings in this engine and trade up at a later date.
Just buy a short block assembly.
Check your oil pickup screen for RTV.. Known issue. It will cause a low oil pressure issue.
I don't know how many times I changed the oil on a Subaru and found zero oil in the filter... ad that to the 2k idle on cold starts. Makes me wonder.
How do you not have oil in your filter during changes? My 19 has a full can on every change. makes such a mess its a PITA to clean up.
as for the rebuild, id just go a cam upgrade without going crazy where everything else needs upgrading.
I have a 2016 Crosstrek. I only have 54K on mine but I have always said “If my engine blows I’m putting a WRX engine in”
I had just changed my oil and drained the old oil into the empty oil jug. Backing into my garage I didn't notice that the dog had knocked over the sealed oil jug until I promptly drove over it where it exploded and sprayed a fine coating of oil everywhere.
😂 I count my blessings then.
Either way theirs money going be spend for any up grades. I'll say keep the engine what it's is just put some boosted pistons rings if you decide to go turbo later.
Some compressed air and a vacuum works wonders.
How many miles were on that oil??? I've never my 2014 Outback oil get anywhere near that dark @ 5k change interval, but I also don't burn any between changes, so probably less blow by.
16:45 I really like your helper!
It appears to have had an oil delivery problem to those rod bearings. Subaru flat-4's of any model do not tolerate operation with low oil sump levels and will sometimes even spin those bearing shells. I'd definitely crack the case and look at the mains for similar problems.
Yeah if i rebuild this motor then I'm definitely pulling the mains. There's no way they're good if the rod bearings looked the way they did.
And THIS is why my German Shorthaired Pointer is never allowed in the garage!!!!
Watching the tear down I was just waiting for the oil to spill … I was rather impressed it didn’t … until it did lol
Please split the case if you plan on rebuilding that f series motor. I'd be interesting seeing what the main bearings look like
I think the FA24F from a 2019+ Ascent would be a good swap. Turbo, 260hp and will run on 87 octane
I have a 2022 Outback Wilderness, the FA24F is a nice engine, it does run great on 87, but I have found that I get better fuel economy with 91 octane. Also the turbo and tuned transmission in the Wilderness Edition give it quite some nice pickup, at the expense of fuel economy.
Ok, found the problem... but 'why' did it happen?
Great question! My guess overall bad engineering. Domino of various design flaws. Something eventually gives.
Get video, really enjoyed watching the teardown. I say go the high compression piston route.
The dog tipped the oil lol
Interested to see what you do for repair.
Subarus are pretty capable of interchanging parts. If you had the time, money, and wiring know-how (or someone who does), then the best upgrade would be getting a wrecked WRX, or Forester XT and swapping the driveline. Mid range would be a headstud / gasket upgrade and a procharger kit. I think there are some kits out there (AVO makes one). But if it were me, I would probably just replace with stock parts and port the intake and exhaust, and a tune, maybe do headers and custom catback as well.
How was 17:47 completely unexpected? You have a dog in your work area.
Still great video. You know your work. Very impressive.
I think I may have the same timing chain noise on the fb25 engine in my forester. Does it sound similar to a engine pinging noise? I hear it under low RPM load most prominently.
Yeah more sounded like a clacking noise for us. But yeah for the XV usually under load at 2-3k rpm or lower.
Update the valve springs cos they are known to fail while you're at that point
bro that oil is Halloween midnight black. lubrication properties are gone
Purchase a brandnew FB25 shortblock from Subaru and slap the FB20 heads on it then headers and exhaust with a tune.
An FB25 is the obvious solution for more power=torque without getting crazy.
Have you checked out Mr Subaru 1387 channel he talks a lot about these older motors might be something to look at
I think if it was me , I’d look around for a used engine.. and just get it back up and running.. as parts and machine shop labour and gaskets.. probably won’t be cheap and it’s hard to find a good machine shop.
That's a bit sad for only 120k but it's a Subaru so not surprising.
if the flywheel was never machined before it can be machined. When i did the clutch on my civic the machine shop took off .015" off and was good to go
I am curious as to if that oil you drained out was synthetic?Im enjoying watching this tear down.Thanks
Boxer motor...say no more. How Subaru gets away with selling cars with known issues, for so many years, without federal action, is beyond me.
Truly the worst engines of all time.
My goodness why do insist on staying with this out dated engine.
Timing chain slap all the way
Engine broke. Removes FRAM filter. Well there's your problem... bearing failure, not suprised. Hey... do the kewel thing and LS swap it! LOL!
Better MANN filter.
I use OEM filter on my 2018 Outback. Older used car I had used FRAM filters....till I read the fine print said " Made in China" . It's like hell no! Never bought one since
I've never seen any evidence that those Fram-made Subaru oil filters ever caused an engine failure.
@@ozzierabbit587 I have rebuilt many an engine that spun bearings. The one commonality? Fram filters. Didnt matter the type, Fram filters have the worst filter media.
At what point milage do you replace the timing chains in a 2013 Subaru crosstrek, please❤?
personally I'd love to see you attempt an EZ30 or EZ36 swap, it would be unique and interesting compared to everybody and their mother EJ swapping them. would be a lot of work though, but worth it i think
...and be (really) nose heavy
Looked like the oil hadn't been changed in 100 thousand miles or more.
Don’t build this motor. They are not worth the headache. Plus the trans can’t handle much more than stock. I watch a channel on here that has turbo’d the stock engine and built the trans and it has been way to much work time money and testing. Not many people have done it so there isn’t info out there to go by it’s all guess and check. If you want more power drop a FA20 from this Gen WRX. It would be a lot easier and way way way more aftermarket support. I use to have a 2015 and also had dreams of a turbo built but quickly gave up after doing the research. I now own a 2023 Sport and love the 2.5L once the warranty runs out I’ll be doing a WRX build and trans swap. Unless the wilderness edition comes true and has a turbo engine then I’ll just trade her in and start there..
I'm sad to see your Subie failed with only 120K on it. That's concerning to me. I have a 2019 Crosstrek and I'm expecting 250K out of her before she's ready for a tear down. Maybe I'm not being realistic. She's my first Subaru. I've had many cars going back to 1970, many with 150K+ on them and I've never had an engine fail. Am I just lucky?
if you want it to last change the oil often, and if its an auto then change the cvt fluid every 30k miles. Dont listen to the bullshit subaru feeds there customers.
No this guy just doesn't know how to take care of a car.
@@johnmastr7901 yes and demand a new transmission after it fails for "lifetime fluid" I got a free one
@@johnmastr7901 Yup! I change my FB25 every 5k. If its over 3k and we are going on a road trip I change it early before we set out. Cheap insurance.
Excellent work. I really enjoyed watching you tear down this motor and finding the issue. I own a newer 2019 Crosstrek and love it. I plan on keeping it for about 10-12 years and will not likely get anywhere near the 120k you had on this motor as my wife and only put about 8000 miles per year on it. I'm curios to know how often you changed the oil and whether or not you used regular oil, as synthetic or a blend of the two. Since we drive the car so little, I am changing every 6 months and use a blend. I'm thinking of going full synthetic and stay with the every 6 months strategy.
your good on the 6 mth oil change thats recommended anyway no matter how many miles
the book says to put 0-20 synthetic i have a 2020 crosstrek i order genuine subaru oil on
Amazon and use a mobile 1 oil filter
@@alanlangley7246 thanks for your reply, Alan. I’ll order that oil on Amazon. Great tip!
Knowing how the motor sounded when we bought the XV used, I've kept it simple on maintenance. 0w-20 full synthetic like the manual specs and every 5k miles or 6 months. We've only put 18k miles on this car since we got it 3 years ago. So really dont drive it much either. Might not be the best but i knew the motor life was numbered.
Its just a bad design. Search on youtube subaru rod knock. So many fail this way. Changing the oil sooner might help it last a little longer but they all fail very early
@chinchy111 lol, they all don't fail early.
Plenty of them rolling around me with 200,000+ miles. Original CVT Tranny also.
120K is not even considered high mileage for a Honda or Toyota engine 😂😂😂😂
you missed some oil changes
Great video! That Diesel Creek shirt helps. yes!!
See if you can drop a wrx engine in. I've always wondered why Subaru didn't put the wrx engine in the Crosstrek. Everyone I know that has one says the same thing... It doesn't have enough power.
You washed it full of oil? Tilted it full of oil? Then drained it?
Yeah, I'd replace that. Somebody cooked the hell out of that clutch. To be fair, I've seen worse.
manual foresters and crosstreks have a habit of burning valves. don't look for more power out of these cars the electronics alone will give you a buttload of grief and cost a lot more than the car is worth.