@@darrkstarcustoms2972 seems to be a little common sense is needed to unscrew the top cap to remove it from the fork. that's pretty much it,, just unscrew it. the hard part is getting the allen screw holding the damper rod loose (bottom of the fork). for that you may want to leave the top cap on until after you break it loose.
Hi, sorry no part 2. However my service manual recommends Shell Advance Fork 7.5w (528.5 to 533.5cc) for the 750ss i.e 1998-2002, which is what my bike is, other years/models may differ! Also important that the level is equal in each fork, 108mm (750ss i.e 1998-2002) from top of tube with spring removed and leg compressed. I could not get Shell so used Motul instead.
I have a '94 M900. the book calls '91 - '97 900 SS and SL models ,..... for oil level = 108mm, oil capacity = 440CC. also says use Showa S.S8 or ATF SAE 10W20. fork spring free length 319mm min. if you give your year and model I might be able to give you the info. the HAYNES manual goes from '91 - '05 and covers 600, 620, 750 & 900 2-valve V-Twins.
What do you mean by 'not working right'? Check which forks you have, M900 up to 1997 were fitted with either Marzocchi (390cc SAE 7.5 fork oil) or Showa (457cc ATF SAE 10W20). You can put an extra 30cc in the Showas to improve performance. Assuming original forks have not been changed for something else.
@@InTheShedUK Thanks for the reply. There is a sticking point in them - like a catch - and they build pressure super quick. I didn't have bushings so only did the seals and oil (7w). I think maybe it's the bushings.... They are 29 years old afte rall. I'll give it another go and do the bushings this time. Thanks again for your reply!
I am pretty sure these are the 900SS forks. The 750SS are not adjustable, but some replace them with the 900SS as a nice upgrade
nice vidoe. learned a few tricks that I wish I knew when I did the fork seals on my old goldwing.
how can it be a nice video, he doesnt even show how to seperate the top cap from the damper rod. its already sitting in the plastic container
@@darrkstarcustoms2972 seems to be a little common sense is needed to unscrew the top cap to remove it from the fork. that's pretty much it,, just unscrew it. the hard part is getting the allen screw holding the damper rod loose (bottom of the fork). for that you may want to leave the top cap on until after you break it loose.
I’ve done everything as you shown us. But I don’t know what oil to use and how much. Is there a 2nd part Many thanks Peter
Hi, sorry no part 2.
However my service manual recommends Shell Advance Fork 7.5w (528.5 to 533.5cc) for the 750ss i.e 1998-2002, which is what my bike is, other years/models may differ!
Also important that the level is equal in each fork, 108mm (750ss i.e 1998-2002) from top of tube with spring removed and leg compressed.
I could not get Shell so used Motul instead.
I have a '94 M900. the book calls '91 - '97 900 SS and SL models ,..... for oil level = 108mm, oil capacity = 440CC. also says use Showa S.S8 or ATF SAE 10W20. fork spring free length 319mm min.
if you give your year and model I might be able to give you the info. the HAYNES manual goes from '91 - '05 and covers 600, 620, 750 & 900 2-valve V-Twins.
I just did mine (1993 M900) but they aren't working right - any advice? Perhaps the oil level? Not sure.... I did 480 ml ea...
What do you mean by 'not working right'?
Check which forks you have, M900 up to 1997 were fitted with either Marzocchi (390cc SAE 7.5 fork oil) or Showa (457cc ATF SAE 10W20).
You can put an extra 30cc in the Showas to improve performance.
Assuming original forks have not been changed for something else.
@@InTheShedUK Thanks for the reply. There is a sticking point in them - like a catch - and they build pressure super quick. I didn't have bushings so only did the seals and oil (7w). I think maybe it's the bushings.... They are 29 years old afte rall. I'll give it another go and do the bushings this time. Thanks again for your reply!
I can’t get the bolt back in the bottom to hold the rod in can’t figure out why you’re requires no pressure
It's been a while since I did this but seem to remember that the top cap needs to be in place to provide pressure on the internal rod