Special thanks to the following supporters - I really appreciate your help, you guys are awesome! Rodrigo Quispe Sipe Saravana Kumar Michael Manning Ashwin Jayaram george Lidio Páez bill hayward Levi Allen Garrit Jacobson MURAT AKSOZEK Tim Cian O'Malley Don Emeka Eruokwu mklr Craig Martin-Smith sawyer90 Kevin Mccusker Elias David Morfin Bruce King Julien Dublin FELIX DEHERRERA Agalelei Toetu Martin Lahm nullstyle Nikkiwuff Anton Filonenko steve stofiel Leslie L. Isgrigg David McAdams John Walker Remco Kok יוסף כהן antonio narciso Rama Krishna David Ponce Jozef De Potter grecco3631 Robert Smith Ron Valerius Alkhatim Almahdi Andreas Dewatmoko Joshua Burd William Jewett Jeremy H. Islanderpc David Franklin Debanjan Talukdar
wicked. im building an electric trike, first 'automotive' diy build iv ever done and its cost me nearly a year now and im still refining the brakes. learning so much along the way.
I love this. I’ve been dreaming of this for months, I have a micro sprint car and I was planning on putting a golf cart rear axle in it, but this is amazing. I’m so glad to see someone do what I’ve been wanting to do for so long. Please keep updating!
I guess great minds think alike. I'm working with a Motenergy motor, Kelly controller, and LifePO4 cells in my project as well. So far, it is a great setup. Can't wait to see that battery build and how you will wire up all that power!
A thought... Jaguar I-Pace motor in the rear as the motor looks like a barrel with shafts ether end without a diff on the side it may fit between the chassis rails of the Lotus under the rear luggage floor ?? batteries in the transmission tunnel an some of the engine bay......
@@brad146 Sounds good to me... 😊 I`m part way of cleaning my collection of 18650s, currently I have enough for building 8 500 cell modules(could stretch to 10) just need the nickel strips, holders bms`s for each module and cooling tubing.... may put up a video of the module builds not sure yet... i also have about 4000 AA rechargeable batteries for running no mains supply garage tools possibly a welder... so i`m on the battery front very advanced in progress 😉...
@JamesBiggar Thank you for this dream project. I just want to cry right now after watching these videos. Wish I could replicate this for my 8yo son but with less power (except the controller can limit the power). Unfortunately, Nigeria is a tough place to get projects like these done. 😭😭😭
I am interested to know the details on how/when that clutch pack activates. Does the rear end simply free wheel until the input shaft starts turning activating the pump then the clutch pack? Reason is I would like to use this rear end in a buggy with a gas motor. If I can activate the internal clutches as needed then I don't have to run a clutch on the gas motor. - Doing some research I see the later 2013 CR-V uses an electronic activated clutch. Wonder if that would work and how harsh the clutch engagement would be. - Doing searches there is little if any info about this. Read on a forum post the 1st gen CR-V diff ratio is over 4 but can not confirm. I am also wondering if there could be a planetary reverse setup built to take the place of the pump and clutch pack. - That would result in a complete tough differential package for a gas engine buggy. I need to find out more about these CR-V diffs and how the different generations are built. - If any one knows where the gear ratio data is for each generation please reply and let me know.
Hi real nice buggy you built I would like to ask were you got the motor drive sprocket from did you cut the center out of a stock front 530 sprocket. thanks for your info.
Like I said before I'm more of a Hydrogen-fueled vehicle guy, but your ebikes and this cross kart are works of art, James. If I had the know-how to weld perfect and blend welds to the point where the vehicle frames look like they were casted as a whole piece, I'd be doing the same thing you're doing... Except I'd use Hydrogen fuel and Nissan 5.6L engines lol. 😆
If you like ICE engines look at co2 neutral fuels which is a good alternative to electric. Scientist grow algae which produce all kinds of carbon based fuels like diesel petrol and Kerosin.
I just purchased a 1929 Mercedes Benz kit car that i will be tourning into a golf cart with off road capabilities. Any ideas for the smoothest suspension possible for the golf course? I want it to just float. I have the same motor except no water cooling. I wont be going too crazy
Independent suspension. If you mean shock design, ie spring rate, travel, etc., that's going to depend on a few factors like sprung and unsprung weight, control arm length, angles, etc. Search out a spring rate calculator on google and use that for designing or consult a suspension specialist when you buy your shocks - they'll set you up with the right specs to suit your cart.
Were you not concerned by the change in force direction on the differential? (from the top rather than from the front) I am looking to do a similar project to this one and I have a good quality car limited slip diff that I want to use but was concerned about the direction of the torque.
No. I can't say it's better or worse than what others have done, just that it's a simple way to achieve limited slip instead of doing what most builders do and mount a sprocket to a solid shaft and put up with the understeering at low speed. I've had 0 problems with it, just have to make sure everything lines up as close to perfect as possible because any bit of misalignment will increase wear and tear on the chain and sprocket, and it'll noisy. The shaft for this diff is supported securely with standard radial ball bearings which are designed specifically to withstand radial forces like what I'm putting it through - it's no different than the timing chain and sprockets in an engine, same principle. There's another way to get the same result but with more work, basically involves removing the gears from a small diff, replacing the ring gear with a sprocket and building a custom housing for the gears to keep them lubricated while keeping the sprocket exposed. There are a few examples on UA-cam. It's more compact and I might try it later with a transmission. I've got a few mods in mind, but again, I've had no problems with it as it is.
Yes, absolutely. MIG is ideal for it, though gas gives better results in this app than flux core, usually. You can get stainless steel wire specifically designed for the job.
You mean cell level fusing or cell nickel strips. Where's the bms, where's the solder, where's the converter, where's the charger, etc. What else did I miss? Lol. Yes. A video will be uploaded covering the battery build, AFTER painting. No sense building the battery if I no where to install it yet. Patience is a virtue.
CR-V hubs are built for drum brakes - I don't want drum brakes. This isn't much different than having one rotor on a solid axle like in other smaller karts or racing quads, it's just turned 90° and attached to the diff drive shaft. Brake rotors can't be attached to cv axles easily, not these ones anyway. One large rotor and dual calipers in a drier location will perform better than drum brakes, and they won't be in the way when it comes time to change the hub bearings. Nor will I have to remove the wheels to change the brake pads.
This is awesome, have you had any issues programming the Kelly controller? I am looking at getting one for my build with the same ME1616 but am told the controller does not come pre programmed.
You can request it to be. But it's not difficult. Just follow the instructions in the Kelly manual to perform the angle identification procedure when first hooking things up (ie syncing the motor with the controller). I've never had a problem with a Kelly controller. Curtis controllers are also a good option. Just be sure to get the RIGHT controller, for sine/cosine signal, not hall.
This build I'd f'ing sick man!!! Is anyone aware of any other electric Cross Karts out there on UA-cam?? I'm sure there's at least a couple that are out ripping it up, but I haven't seen any on UA-cam other than this one here. And I've been obsessed with these Cross Karts since I first seen em about 2 years ago on here.
Thanks! Check out Brian's kart at his XS Motorworks channel. I borrowed his idea for the diff. I think he's using the smaller ME1507 motor. I don't know of any other electric crosskart/buggies. But check out the Ghost EV TV channel too. He's building a small car using two of these motors. He was peeling the tires with just one. I think he's just about ready for a test drive with both motors and his new custom battery too.
Really appreciate.. waiting for your next video... But question is why such a high power motor (55kw) is required there Can't we use 3 to 5 kw motor...?
Because this is not a boring commuter machine that putts along at a snail's pace on city streets. This is an off road race machine. Think of it this way - if you want to lift a heavy weight, what do you need? Muscle. If you want to lift a heavier weight, you'll need even more muscle. It's the same with motor vehicles or anything in life - you need the right force to do the work effectively. The more weight you want to move in your vehicle, the more power you need to move it or you're not going anywhere fast, if at all. 3-5kW is only ~6 hp at the most, that's barely enough for a 100 lb e-bike to climb steep hills. This machine will weigh between 750-800 lbs. 6 hp would yield a very disappointing power to weight ratio of only 0.008hp/lb. A gutless Prius has a ratio of 0.04hp/lb. It would be close to half the weight of a Prius, but only 1/4 of the power. It might as well be operated with pedals. It would feel like it's towing a bus on flat roads and it definitely won't climb any hills. With 55 kW, it has a similar power to weight ratio (0.1hp/lb) as a Tesla EV, or a stock Porsche 911. There won't be any stopping it unless it hits an immovable object. Power to weight ratio is what matters if you want to have fun with your vehicle.
To answer your other question, 55 kW is the motor's peak power rating, which it can sustain for ~10 seconds. Continuous power rating is 24 kW, which it can sustain indefinitely (hence continuous vs peak power). Like an internal combustion engine, a motor can't be operated at full power indefinitely or it will overheat catastrophically. There's always a continuous and peak power rating. The controller is rated for 240 amps continuous (not 200) and 600 amps peak, ie: ~ 23 kW cont and 57.6 kW peak which it can sustain for ~ 30 seconds. This is why I chose this controller for this motor. The specs are close to matching, and the controller can be programmed to use slightly less power to protect the motor and battery from overcurrent use, which is its job. The battery has a capacity of ~12 kWh...not a power of 12 kW. You're confusing terminology here. Kilowatt and kilowatt hours are related, but different. Kw is a measure of power or force, kWh is a measure of energy, energy storage, or work. Related, but different. The cells used are rated for 5 amp hours of capacity, and can deliver 15 amps of current continuously to the motor, or 50 amps peak for 10 seconds. Connecting cells in series increases voltage, connecting in parallel increases current discharge and capacity. The battery will be arranged in a 24P30S configuration, meaning 24 cells will be connected in parallel to form one large cell to increase the storage capacity from 5 Ah to 100 Ah, and will increase the current discharge capability from 15 amps cont and 50 amps peak to 360 amps cont and 1200 amps peak, and there will be 30 groups of these large cells connected in series to increase the nominal voltage from 3.2 to 96V. Ergo, the 12 kWh battery will be capable of delivering 96 x 360 = 34.5 kW of continuous power to the motor and 115 kW peak. As mentioned previously, the controller can be programmed to limit this power so that the motor doesn't draw more current than it can safely handle. The controller can be tuned all the way down to 1 kW if needed, though that would obviously be a huge waste of power and energy. But it's better to slightly oversize equipment like the controller and battery by at least 10-20% more than the power of the motor and use the controller program to limit current to a safe level so that nothing overheats and efficiency is maximized.
@@JamesBiggar Really appreciates your explanation. One last question is, it seems it's an automatic gearbox, what if you use a manual gearbox. which one is better in terms of the load instead of speed.?
That's a differential, not a gearbox or transmission - all differentials work automatically except manual lock differentials. Ev's don't require transmissions, they produce more than enough torque for accelerating, unlike an ICEV. All ICEV's require transmissions of some kind.
Thanks. It's the only way for the differential to function - if the clutch isn't pinned, the diff has a slip. I've detailed why in the video description.
Thanks. Simple - they're a good balance between safety and energy density. If I run into a tree on the trail, crush the chassis and damage the battery, I don't have to worry about being trapped in a fiery inferno because LiFePo4 cells won't ignite like Li-ion and cause a runaway explosion. You could punch a screwdriver straight through one of these cells and it will just expand and maybe smoke a little, but no fire. These cells from batteryhookup.com are also sold at the best price that I've seen anywhere, and they're underrated. Most people are finding these actually have 5500-5700 mah capacity instead of 5000, but they rated them at an even 5000 just to be safe because their manufacturer says there's a +/-5% margin of error.
Mr James have you considered the idea of using LTO cells? They have a little bit lower energy density but the power density is INSANE. you can abuse them and even fast charge them as much as you can. I have a little pack (2.4kw) for my electric motorcycle and although it's range is lower compared to LFP or NMC always a charge of 15 or 20 mins is enough for calling it a day.
@@JamesBiggar Are you going to try to fit all 4 boxes into it!? You'll have enough range to do a cross country trip! Or is it about the peak power draw you want for that beast of a motor/controller? You'll have less to worry about cooling wise I suppose to for sustained power if you have big ass pack.
How's the luck so far with those battery hookup cells? I ordered 144 of them for a 5p24s pack for a 72v 8000w electric bike. The pack is complete on a 200A Daly BMS, and the bikes almost finished.
@@Todd_G_FPV I use a 1200A spot welder with a pen probe at nearly max setting to work for .20mm pure nickel strip and 32650 cell holders (That is required for high amp draw from the pack, sometimes even 2 layers thick). Once the strips connect the cells it still is a somewhat flexible pack, so I wrap it with polyimide heat tape before cutting a large shrink wrap for the pack. Go for a Daly BMS, they are currently on Amazon at a good price.
Haven't started the battery yet, just finished building a brake to bend the aluminum body panels. Once I get everything done as far as the chassis mounts and it's ready for paint, then I'll shift focus to the battery. This will be my first time using these cells, but they have a good reputation. I'm using a Daly BMS as well, 20-24P30S configuration (haven't settled on capacity yet). Using a 5000W spot welder to weld 2 layers of .2x15mm nickel strips to the cells and then solder them to thicker copper busbars running between the cells on each end of the parallel groups to carry the final current through each series connection. Kind of like what's done with cell level fusing, but without the fusing. I considered doing that as well, but figured these are a lot safer than Tesla's li-ion 18650's so if one of the cells short later I'm not too worried about the entire pack catching fire on me. It could be a really dumb decision, too lol. My luck isn't the greatest...
@@JamesBiggar I also just noticed yours have the white ring insulator up on the positive of the battery, mine came with cardboard brown. I'm hoping they didn't re-wrap some k2 cells or something for mine or something. I'll be following along to see how your cells end up!
Highly unlikely, they're manufactured specifically for Batteryhookup. They do sell K2 cells, too, along with Headway, Topband, and others, but not with their company name printed on the side of them. They take a lot of pride in their family owned business and have invested a lot of time and $ into their cells and nickel fuse sheets, and make a point to call out scams when they see them (I've been following and shopping through them for a couple of years). I recommend searching out other battery builds on UA-cam using these cells, or other cells that they've supplied. They have an excellent reputation.
Not yet. I don't like to publish too many design details until I've tested them - don't want to steer anyone in the wrong direction. If the test ride goes well and I don't experience anything crazy like death wobble or something, then a complete set of plans for the chassis and suspension, wiring schematics, etc will be available on the website.
Depends on gearing, tire size, weight, etc. Motor specs alone don't determine top speed. With 22" tires and 5:1 gearing I'll achieve around 120 km/h with this vehicle. With 3:1 gearing a person could reach 160 km/h, and so on. Power is a function of speed and torque, which also means that more speed = less torque, more torque = less speed. There's a compromise, so you need to gear it for the task. Asking what the rpm and torque is would be a better question. See the description for links.
Nope, I run her dry 24/7 bud. Only way to do it. Grease is for pussies with no $ to burn. I'm kidding, obviously. I didn't put fluid in it because I had to install a LSD conversion kit at a later date. There's a video showing that specifically. No sense adding fluid to a buggy that can't move yet just to take it back out and put it back in a few weeks later...
Special thanks to the following supporters - I really appreciate your help, you guys are awesome!
Rodrigo Quispe Sipe
Saravana Kumar
Michael Manning
Ashwin Jayaram
george
Lidio Páez
bill hayward
Levi Allen
Garrit Jacobson
MURAT AKSOZEK
Tim
Cian O'Malley
Don
Emeka Eruokwu
mklr
Craig Martin-Smith
sawyer90
Kevin Mccusker
Elias
David Morfin
Bruce King
Julien Dublin
FELIX DEHERRERA
Agalelei Toetu
Martin Lahm
nullstyle
Nikkiwuff
Anton Filonenko
steve stofiel
Leslie L. Isgrigg
David McAdams
John Walker
Remco Kok
יוסף כהן
antonio narciso
Rama Krishna
David Ponce
Jozef De Potter
grecco3631
Robert Smith
Ron Valerius
Alkhatim Almahdi
Andreas Dewatmoko
Joshua Burd
William Jewett
Jeremy H.
Islanderpc
David Franklin
Debanjan Talukdar
Oh the batteries
I WANNA SEE THE BUILD OF THE PACK!!!
We need a detailed vid on the battery pack assembly. Please lol
Love how much use this guy gets out of his angle grinders
OMG.... How satisfying to see you to work and to show your great engineering skills.
Got VERY excited when you showed those battery cells.
Looks great so far. I’m doing 0-60 times with mine right now. One thing I wish I would have is a two speed transmission.
wicked. im building an electric trike, first 'automotive' diy build iv ever done and its cost me nearly a year now and im still refining the brakes. learning so much along the way.
Another awesome video. I love the design work on this thing. Very well thought out, as usual.
Thank you! Cheers!
I love this. I’ve been dreaming of this for months, I have a micro sprint car and I was planning on putting a golf cart rear axle in it, but this is amazing. I’m so glad to see someone do what I’ve been wanting to do for so long. Please keep updating!
Your belt tensioner design is excellent
Really not sure to have understood what you did with the diff but this build is very clean and pro! Bravo!
Thanks. I put a detailed explanation of the modification in the video description.
Sir I love your videos. I know you have a lot of work to do. But I was sad that today I had only 15 minutes of joy. Can't wait for the next video.
Oh buddy! I like where this is going! Great work so far, just playing catch up as I've found this fantastic series late. 😁
Our man is here
I guess great minds think alike. I'm working with a Motenergy motor, Kelly controller, and LifePO4 cells in my project as well. So far, it is a great setup. Can't wait to see that battery build and how you will wire up all that power!
Very interested.
I have a lotus 7 with a Kawasaki ZX10R engine and I know I will have to take this route in the near future 👍👍
A thought... Jaguar I-Pace motor in the rear as the motor looks like a barrel with shafts ether end without a diff on the side it may fit between the chassis rails of the Lotus under the rear luggage floor ?? batteries in the transmission tunnel an some of the engine bay......
@@kylereese4822 Good idea. I will be enjoying the screemer for a couple of years yet. By then the batteries will be a lot lighter and better 😉
@@brad146 Sounds good to me... 😊 I`m part way of cleaning my collection of 18650s, currently I have enough for building 8 500 cell modules(could stretch to 10) just need the nickel strips, holders bms`s for each module and cooling tubing.... may put up a video of the module builds not sure yet... i also have about 4000 AA rechargeable batteries for running no mains supply garage tools possibly a welder... so i`m on the battery front very advanced in progress 😉...
Dams thats a big ass motor you got!
Please do not delete your channel and videos in it! 🙏🏻
Bro I like your work skill. I'm very excited when I get notification of your new video.
Inspirational. Hope to do this one day.
Nicely done 👍😎
Exactly what I’m looking for🇦🇺👌
this thing is going to be a beast
@JamesBiggar Thank you for this dream project. I just want to cry right now after watching these videos. Wish I could replicate this for my 8yo son but with less power (except the controller can limit the power). Unfortunately, Nigeria is a tough place to get projects like these done. 😭😭😭
Can't wait for the follow-up video
I am interested to know the details on how/when that clutch pack activates. Does the rear end simply free wheel until the input shaft starts turning activating the pump then the clutch pack? Reason is I would like to use this rear end in a buggy with a gas motor. If I can activate the internal clutches as needed then I don't have to run a clutch on the gas motor.
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Doing some research I see the later 2013 CR-V uses an electronic activated clutch. Wonder if that would work and how harsh the clutch engagement would be.
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Doing searches there is little if any info about this. Read on a forum post the 1st gen CR-V diff ratio is over 4 but can not confirm. I am also wondering if there could be a planetary reverse setup built to take the place of the pump and clutch pack.
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That would result in a complete tough differential package for a gas engine buggy. I need to find out more about these CR-V diffs and how the different generations are built.
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If any one knows where the gear ratio data is for each generation please reply and let me know.
I prefered the electric streetfighter but this project sounds interesting too
Awesome build...... Bravo!
Thank you!
Looking good, it’s gunna be a screamer!
Really cool parts, nice video!
Excellent work
Really enjoyed this video 🙂👍
Excellent project 👍
Hi real nice buggy you built I would like to ask were you got the motor drive sprocket from did you cut the center out of a stock front 530 sprocket. thanks for your info.
The next episode will be amazing😎😎👌, good job
Can't wait to see the results
Quick question - 10:39 - why just the one 'key' why not multiple slots in the shaft?
Cant wait to see it done 🙌🏽💪🏾⚡
Wow Wow my jaw dropped i watched all your videos Genious. Anon DK Q
Like I said before I'm more of a Hydrogen-fueled vehicle guy, but your ebikes and this cross kart are works of art, James. If I had the know-how to weld perfect and blend welds to the point where the vehicle frames look like they were casted as a whole piece, I'd be doing the same thing you're doing...
Except I'd use Hydrogen fuel and Nissan 5.6L engines lol. 😆
If you like ICE engines look at co2 neutral fuels which is a good alternative to electric. Scientist grow algae which produce all kinds of carbon based fuels like diesel petrol and Kerosin.
That’s a huge controller
looking forward to the new video 👍🏼👏🏻
I just purchased a 1929 Mercedes Benz kit car that i will be tourning into a golf cart with off road capabilities. Any ideas for the smoothest suspension possible for the golf course? I want it to just float.
I have the same motor except no water cooling.
I wont be going too crazy
Independent suspension. If you mean shock design, ie spring rate, travel, etc., that's going to depend on a few factors like sprung and unsprung weight, control arm length, angles, etc. Search out a spring rate calculator on google and use that for designing or consult a suspension specialist when you buy your shocks - they'll set you up with the right specs to suit your cart.
Now that’s Fabrication!!
The REAL Mad Max on STEROIDS...
Your work is a feast for the eye
wow so good
Were you not concerned by the change in force direction on the differential? (from the top rather than from the front) I am looking to do a similar project to this one and I have a good quality car limited slip diff that I want to use but was concerned about the direction of the torque.
No. I can't say it's better or worse than what others have done, just that it's a simple way to achieve limited slip instead of doing what most builders do and mount a sprocket to a solid shaft and put up with the understeering at low speed. I've had 0 problems with it, just have to make sure everything lines up as close to perfect as possible because any bit of misalignment will increase wear and tear on the chain and sprocket, and it'll noisy. The shaft for this diff is supported securely with standard radial ball bearings which are designed specifically to withstand radial forces like what I'm putting it through - it's no different than the timing chain and sprockets in an engine, same principle. There's another way to get the same result but with more work, basically involves removing the gears from a small diff, replacing the ring gear with a sprocket and building a custom housing for the gears to keep them lubricated while keeping the sprocket exposed. There are a few examples on UA-cam. It's more compact and I might try it later with a transmission. I've got a few mods in mind, but again, I've had no problems with it as it is.
@@JamesBiggar Thank you, I think this the route I will take as well in that case!
Did you ever make a video changing it to limited slip or full locking?
Yes: ua-cam.com/video/_z0ByDjlHTI/v-deo.html
Awesome keep it up brother
Awesome video as always
The differential was not designed to Handel the side loads the chain will impose. Another bearing in front will help it live.
Lol. Ok.
Im looking to build one of these as my senior design project, any advice?
Man I need to commission you to upgrade our Ford escape hybrid batteries, What you do is gonna be a 1000 times better than what's in it. Lmk
Good work!!!!
quick question: you welded the stainless steel shaft to the mild steel adapter plate with a MIG welder - is that OK to do?
Yes, absolutely. MIG is ideal for it, though gas gives better results in this app than flux core, usually. You can get stainless steel wire specifically designed for the job.
Shall we see a video on Making battery pack..?
Where is cell level strips
You mean cell level fusing or cell nickel strips. Where's the bms, where's the solder, where's the converter, where's the charger, etc. What else did I miss? Lol. Yes. A video will be uploaded covering the battery build, AFTER painting. No sense building the battery if I no where to install it yet. Patience is a virtue.
Hows it been with programming that Kelley?
Probably easier than a sevcon, Id assume.
Would you consider recording that process?
Amazing build.
Cheers
Haven't gotten that far yet - gotta get some paint on it first lol. I'll record how I do it when the time comes, though.
It will be very helpful for a lot of people. Great work. Keep it up friend.
Great vídeo. Whats the model of this diferential?
Thanks! Honda CR-V, '07-'11 I think
Ooh niceee
An interesting location for the disc rotor 💿
What's up with that?
CR-V hubs are built for drum brakes - I don't want drum brakes. This isn't much different than having one rotor on a solid axle like in other smaller karts or racing quads, it's just turned 90° and attached to the diff drive shaft. Brake rotors can't be attached to cv axles easily, not these ones anyway. One large rotor and dual calipers in a drier location will perform better than drum brakes, and they won't be in the way when it comes time to change the hub bearings. Nor will I have to remove the wheels to change the brake pads.
@@JamesBiggar plus u get more mechanical leverage being in front of the diff and not at the wheels
This is awesome, have you had any issues programming the Kelly controller? I am looking at getting one for my build with the same ME1616 but am told the controller does not come pre programmed.
You can request it to be. But it's not difficult. Just follow the instructions in the Kelly manual to perform the angle identification procedure when first hooking things up (ie syncing the motor with the controller). I've never had a problem with a Kelly controller. Curtis controllers are also a good option. Just be sure to get the RIGHT controller, for sine/cosine signal, not hall.
This build I'd f'ing sick man!!! Is anyone aware of any other electric Cross Karts out there on UA-cam?? I'm sure there's at least a couple that are out ripping it up, but I haven't seen any on UA-cam other than this one here. And I've been obsessed with these Cross Karts since I first seen em about 2 years ago on here.
Thanks! Check out Brian's kart at his XS Motorworks channel. I borrowed his idea for the diff. I think he's using the smaller ME1507 motor. I don't know of any other electric crosskart/buggies. But check out the Ghost EV TV channel too. He's building a small car using two of these motors. He was peeling the tires with just one. I think he's just about ready for a test drive with both motors and his new custom battery too.
@@JamesBiggar that is awesome!! I'll most definitely go check those out! Thanks!
Now I’m starting to fizz.
I am a fan of your welding machine !!
Which model ??
Really appreciate.. waiting for your next video...
But question is why such a high power motor (55kw) is required there
Can't we use 3 to 5 kw motor...?
Because this is not a boring commuter machine that putts along at a snail's pace on city streets. This is an off road race machine. Think of it this way - if you want to lift a heavy weight, what do you need? Muscle. If you want to lift a heavier weight, you'll need even more muscle. It's the same with motor vehicles or anything in life - you need the right force to do the work effectively. The more weight you want to move in your vehicle, the more power you need to move it or you're not going anywhere fast, if at all. 3-5kW is only ~6 hp at the most, that's barely enough for a 100 lb e-bike to climb steep hills. This machine will weigh between 750-800 lbs. 6 hp would yield a very disappointing power to weight ratio of only 0.008hp/lb. A gutless Prius has a ratio of 0.04hp/lb. It would be close to half the weight of a Prius, but only 1/4 of the power. It might as well be operated with pedals. It would feel like it's towing a bus on flat roads and it definitely won't climb any hills. With 55 kW, it has a similar power to weight ratio (0.1hp/lb) as a Tesla EV, or a stock Porsche 911. There won't be any stopping it unless it hits an immovable object. Power to weight ratio is what matters if you want to have fun with your vehicle.
To answer your other question, 55 kW is the motor's peak power rating, which it can sustain for ~10 seconds. Continuous power rating is 24 kW, which it can sustain indefinitely (hence continuous vs peak power). Like an internal combustion engine, a motor can't be operated at full power indefinitely or it will overheat catastrophically. There's always a continuous and peak power rating. The controller is rated for 240 amps continuous (not 200) and 600 amps peak, ie: ~ 23 kW cont and 57.6 kW peak which it can sustain for ~ 30 seconds. This is why I chose this controller for this motor. The specs are close to matching, and the controller can be programmed to use slightly less power to protect the motor and battery from overcurrent use, which is its job. The battery has a capacity of ~12 kWh...not a power of 12 kW. You're confusing terminology here. Kilowatt and kilowatt hours are related, but different. Kw is a measure of power or force, kWh is a measure of energy, energy storage, or work. Related, but different. The cells used are rated for 5 amp hours of capacity, and can deliver 15 amps of current continuously to the motor, or 50 amps peak for 10 seconds. Connecting cells in series increases voltage, connecting in parallel increases current discharge and capacity. The battery will be arranged in a 24P30S configuration, meaning 24 cells will be connected in parallel to form one large cell to increase the storage capacity from 5 Ah to 100 Ah, and will increase the current discharge capability from 15 amps cont and 50 amps peak to 360 amps cont and 1200 amps peak, and there will be 30 groups of these large cells connected in series to increase the nominal voltage from 3.2 to 96V. Ergo, the 12 kWh battery will be capable of delivering 96 x 360 = 34.5 kW of continuous power to the motor and 115 kW peak. As mentioned previously, the controller can be programmed to limit this power so that the motor doesn't draw more current than it can safely handle. The controller can be tuned all the way down to 1 kW if needed, though that would obviously be a huge waste of power and energy. But it's better to slightly oversize equipment like the controller and battery by at least 10-20% more than the power of the motor and use the controller program to limit current to a safe level so that nothing overheats and efficiency is maximized.
@@JamesBiggar Thank you
@@JamesBiggar Really appreciates your explanation.
One last question is, it seems it's an automatic gearbox,
what if you use a manual gearbox.
which one is better in terms of the load instead of speed.?
That's a differential, not a gearbox or transmission - all differentials work automatically except manual lock differentials. Ev's don't require transmissions, they produce more than enough torque for accelerating, unlike an ICEV. All ICEV's require transmissions of some kind.
RELEASE THE SHMOO!!!
Hi, how do you prevent battery from risk of explosion or fire? and what type of charging system are you using? thanks :)
Hi. LiFePo4 batteries don't explode or catch fire. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001954107923.html
@@JamesBiggar Thanks for this ;)
Will the differential still function if the clutch is locked? or is it just being used as a means of power delivery to the wheels? Awesome project :D
Thanks. It's the only way for the differential to function - if the clutch isn't pinned, the diff has a slip. I've detailed why in the video description.
Awesome!
Great video.
Could you please explain us why you decided on LiFePO4 cells ?
Thanks. Simple - they're a good balance between safety and energy density. If I run into a tree on the trail, crush the chassis and damage the battery, I don't have to worry about being trapped in a fiery inferno because LiFePo4 cells won't ignite like Li-ion and cause a runaway explosion. You could punch a screwdriver straight through one of these cells and it will just expand and maybe smoke a little, but no fire. These cells from batteryhookup.com are also sold at the best price that I've seen anywhere, and they're underrated. Most people are finding these actually have 5500-5700 mah capacity instead of 5000, but they rated them at an even 5000 just to be safe because their manufacturer says there's a +/-5% margin of error.
Mr James have you considered the idea of using LTO cells?
They have a little bit lower energy density but the power density is INSANE. you can abuse them and even fast charge them as much as you can.
I have a little pack (2.4kw) for my electric motorcycle and although it's range is lower compared to LFP or NMC always a charge of 15 or 20 mins is enough for calling it a day.
Yes. But the price needs to come down A LOT before I'm willing to go broke to build a large pack with them. I can barely afford LiFePo4 as it is lol
@@JamesBiggar Thank you for this detailed reply :)
@@JamesBiggar Are you going to try to fit all 4 boxes into it!? You'll have enough range to do a cross country trip! Or is it about the peak power draw you want for that beast of a motor/controller? You'll have less to worry about cooling wise I suppose to for sustained power if you have big ass pack.
How's the luck so far with those battery hookup cells? I ordered 144 of them for a 5p24s pack for a 72v 8000w electric bike. The pack is complete on a 200A Daly BMS, and the bikes almost finished.
I'm curious too as I've been needing to make a pack for my drift cart. What do u use to make yours? (Tools, battery holders, ect)?
@@Todd_G_FPV I use a 1200A spot welder with a pen probe at nearly max setting to work for .20mm pure nickel strip and 32650 cell holders (That is required for high amp draw from the pack, sometimes even 2 layers thick). Once the strips connect the cells it still is a somewhat flexible pack, so I wrap it with polyimide heat tape before cutting a large shrink wrap for the pack. Go for a Daly BMS, they are currently on Amazon at a good price.
Haven't started the battery yet, just finished building a brake to bend the aluminum body panels. Once I get everything done as far as the chassis mounts and it's ready for paint, then I'll shift focus to the battery. This will be my first time using these cells, but they have a good reputation. I'm using a Daly BMS as well, 20-24P30S configuration (haven't settled on capacity yet). Using a 5000W spot welder to weld 2 layers of .2x15mm nickel strips to the cells and then solder them to thicker copper busbars running between the cells on each end of the parallel groups to carry the final current through each series connection. Kind of like what's done with cell level fusing, but without the fusing. I considered doing that as well, but figured these are a lot safer than Tesla's li-ion 18650's so if one of the cells short later I'm not too worried about the entire pack catching fire on me. It could be a really dumb decision, too lol. My luck isn't the greatest...
@@JamesBiggar I also just noticed yours have the white ring insulator up on the positive of the battery, mine came with cardboard brown. I'm hoping they didn't re-wrap some k2 cells or something for mine or something. I'll be following along to see how your cells end up!
Highly unlikely, they're manufactured specifically for Batteryhookup. They do sell K2 cells, too, along with Headway, Topband, and others, but not with their company name printed on the side of them. They take a lot of pride in their family owned business and have invested a lot of time and $ into their cells and nickel fuse sheets, and make a point to call out scams when they see them (I've been following and shopping through them for a couple of years). I recommend searching out other battery builds on UA-cam using these cells, or other cells that they've supplied. They have an excellent reputation.
Wicked!
In the back of my head, I've been thinking of using my Goldwing 1832cc motor... Hmmm
Nice. ;- )
for the chassis. is there a place where you show the measurements or no? Btw i love your videos ❤️
Not yet. I don't like to publish too many design details until I've tested them - don't want to steer anyone in the wrong direction. If the test ride goes well and I don't experience anything crazy like death wobble or something, then a complete set of plans for the chassis and suspension, wiring schematics, etc will be available on the website.
ok thank you
How much did you paid for this motor?
When will you release pt 4 sir
1 week from today.
What is the highest speed of this motor please tell me
Depends on gearing, tire size, weight, etc. Motor specs alone don't determine top speed. With 22" tires and 5:1 gearing I'll achieve around 120 km/h with this vehicle. With 3:1 gearing a person could reach 160 km/h, and so on. Power is a function of speed and torque, which also means that more speed = less torque, more torque = less speed. There's a compromise, so you need to gear it for the task. Asking what the rpm and torque is would be a better question. See the description for links.
I'd probably have just degreased the clutch pack and reassembled it with a thin coating of JB Weld on the face of each plate.
That would work, if the coating is consistent enough. Otherwise there could be a higher risk of balance issues. Not a big deal for off road though
Сто килограмм батареек. Чтобы покататься один час. :)
I like you boss
👌💯
fucking brilliant
What range are you aiming for?
Aiming at ... sorry
What are the o rings in the chain for?
They serve as a bushing between the link plates to limit friction and wear, and help keep lubrication in the chain and dirt out.
@@JamesBiggar oh ok thanks for the reply 👍
I love you
Si bien ami
l want another electric motorcycle video bro
You'll have to wait bro. I've built 3 already and really don't need another one. I want to focus my time and resources on this project.
Just because you watch 20 videos on how to make one, doesn't mean you're going to get any closer to having your own)
True. At some point you just have to do it or move on.
@@morkovija *snicker*
Please post some pictures of this on your IG
I'd have taken that apart and instantly forgotten how to re assemble it...
12:33 You didnt put grease in it 😲
Nope, I run her dry 24/7 bud. Only way to do it. Grease is for pussies with no $ to burn. I'm kidding, obviously. I didn't put fluid in it because I had to install a LSD conversion kit at a later date. There's a video showing that specifically. No sense adding fluid to a buggy that can't move yet just to take it back out and put it back in a few weeks later...
Build a audi electric cycle plesssss
😯😲🤔
:)
600A...
Don't nuke yourself... Lol
Дьиикэй ди уол кытаат