Although I have done this for years, I am really enjoying your whole series which provides a sound basis for anyone wanting to start - and lots of tips for those of us who are more experienced. Although the "Godfather" Tony Wright set me off on kit building 20 plus years ago, I also found that being a member of an MRC put me in touch with others with far more engineering skill than me. but also with lots of tips that I have picked up on. One of them was to switch from .45 NS Wire to flat Copper strip for the pick up and where I have found far more stability - in other words, once a Loco has been running, the strip always stays in place whereas the wire does have a tendency to be moved out of place by the Loco's movements (especially on bends). My solution for the problem with the brake gear is to lop 'em off on the smaller engines that are tight on space - its not the thing to do of course, but nobody ever notices in operation!!! Keep up the good work - Dave
If I may ask, how do you replace the wire with flat copper strip? I mean, is it similar to the way this person did it or does it require modifications? I’m thinking of kit building and I’m asking for tips on it. (J72 chassis for GER C72 )
Thanks for covering the subject of pick-ups. great explanation and demonstration. Very impressed, not only by the standard of modelling, but also how you manage to do it all with the added pressure of that filming and commenting.
Buy glass fibre-backed copper clad. It resists soldering heat better. The thin paxolin stuff as used for sleepers does not stand re-soldering and the copper peels away.
It's generally considered recommended practise to install pick-ups both sides for DCC, but it isn't essential, providing the decoder is completely electrically isolated.
I'm not using acid plumbing flux... I presume you mean that your personal preference is 60/40 solder and rosin flux? As always in model building there are many ways to achieve the goal.
When soldering electrical connections, rosin flux is always used, unless you want your connections to corrode. If you use silver bearing solder, too much heat will be required.
Although I have done this for years, I am really enjoying your whole series which provides a sound basis for anyone wanting to start - and lots of tips for those of us who are more experienced. Although the "Godfather" Tony Wright set me off on kit building 20 plus years ago, I also found that being a member of an MRC put me in touch with others with far more engineering skill than me. but also with lots of tips that I have picked up on. One of them was to switch from .45 NS Wire to flat Copper strip for the pick up and where I have found far more stability - in other words, once a Loco has been running, the strip always stays in place whereas the wire does have a tendency to be moved out of place by the Loco's movements (especially on bends). My solution for the problem with the brake gear is to lop 'em off on the smaller engines that are tight on space - its not the thing to do of course, but nobody ever notices in operation!!! Keep up the good work - Dave
If I may ask, how do you replace the wire with flat copper strip?
I mean, is it similar to the way this person did it or does it require modifications?
I’m thinking of kit building and I’m asking for tips on it. (J72 chassis for GER C72 )
Thanks for covering the subject of pick-ups. great explanation and demonstration. Very impressed, not only by the standard of modelling, but also how you manage to do it all with the added pressure of that filming and commenting.
Thank you Mike, very kind of you to say. I have to admit, it isn't always done in one take... the wonders of digital filming! ;)
Great video and great ideas ! Thanks for sharing.
Buy glass fibre-backed copper clad. It resists soldering heat better. The thin paxolin stuff as used for sleepers does not stand re-soldering and the copper peels away.
I plan on doing this to a Westside Brass FEF-3
Nice helpful video.
On this video you only install 1 side pick up. For DCC, it should be both sided pick up, is it correct?
It's generally considered recommended practise to install pick-ups both sides for DCC, but it isn't essential, providing the decoder is completely electrically isolated.
@@cb01ttr Ok thank you.
Nice top!
Cheers mate, it's new...
Hello, are we lucky to see the fitting of the embellishments on the 4-6-2 DJH model? I have doubts for my kit :)
Hello Eric, yes I will be completing the model at some point, though I haven't been building much of late.
Just a suggestion, when soldering wire don't use an acid flux, I use a paste flux on mine, doesn't turn green if not washed off.
Hi Peter, thanks, I've not yet tried paste flux, might give it a go in the future. :)
I do the same as well - avoids any corrosion on the pick-ups later on.
Use 60/40 solder and always use rosin flux. Never use acid plumbing flux.
I'm not using acid plumbing flux... I presume you mean that your personal preference is 60/40 solder and rosin flux? As always in model building there are many ways to achieve the goal.
When soldering electrical connections, rosin flux is always used, unless you want your connections to corrode. If you use silver bearing solder, too much heat will be required.
Ok, thanks Dave.