Useful information!!! Thank you. I think one has to actually have built a fence to appreciate this video. The thing is, in my limited experience, even if your site looks level, it's usually not, so one is, ultimately either high or low. Low rots the wood. High has wide open gaps ( as you've said ) But again, that slope isn't easily perceived until a level line of panels is installed...then a 'problem' appears.
I would love a video on how to build these: both of those last 2 you discussed. With the last option - if we're using sheep/goat panel, would it just be possible (and would it be reasonable) to set a very narrow, level trench and backfill to create the stepped up, stepped down method? Or is it simpler to go with the approach to slopes you first mention?
Hi Greg, I really enjoy how thorough your videos are from fences to roofs and more. I am building a privacy fence soon with 8ft long 2 3/8in galvanized posts (2ft+ buried) and was curious what your opinion is on the best method for longevity and strength. Would you reccomend "floating" the post to height after pouring the mixed concrete, or set gravel in the hole, then post, then concrete? I plan to have the concrete above grade and sloped away as you recommend. I'm just torn on whether floating the post is better than setting it on gravel first. My understanding is that the post inserted into concrete will have more surface area of the post to "grip" in the event of high winds since the interior and exterior of the post will be in contact with the concrete. Also I will be digging the holes 6in deeper than the post will be set (e.g. 30in hole for 24in of post in-ground) and dig out a "bell-shape" to prevent the concrete from lifting. The bottom of the post will be encased and theoretically unlikely to rust as it won't be in contact with soil (4-6" of concrete below the bottom of the post). Any thoughts on that method? Is the gravel method necessary for drainage? I'm curious if I have any blind spots, or I could do something in a better way. Thanks again and keep up the great work with these videos!
If you're using the gravel for water drainage, then it would depend on your soil and freezing ground temperatures. I'm still not sold on using gravel in areas with high moisture content in soil where the gravel could act as a water collector. Let me know if this didn't answer your questions.
@@gregvancom Thanks for the reply! I'm in the southeastern US, near the coast so rarely freezing temps but we get a decent amount of rain. In your experience or opinion, is there any downside to "floating/inserting" the glavanized post down in the concrete with several inches of concrete encasing the bottom (bell shaped hole)? I feel like it'a a good option but could be overlooking something. Thanks again for your insights and all your videos!
For the most part yes. You can use wood stakes also that would be driven into ground first and then attach lattice to stakes or a board that would attach to stakes that would run parallel to ground like a 2x4.
What is vertically level? I thought level was perfectly positioned horizontally and plumb was perfectly positioned vertically. Is vertically level a brand construction term?
@@gregvancom As a carpenter of 52 years experience, I've never heard vertically level. This is what I was taught as a carpenter apprentice: "A vertical framing member, such as a post or stud, is "plumb" when it's perfectly straight, and when a horizontal member has no tilt, it is "level." Never taught nor heard of vertically level. I guess anything can be anything if you decide to accept anyone's wish to change the definition of construction terms. Sounds like a transgender term for construction!!
I need to straighten a sloped garden, but my fence panels are like this at 5:43 If I add soil at the bottom of the slope, the soil will sit higher then the bottom of the fence panel that is lower. What would you recommend?? Would I have to build a retaining wall a few feet away from the fence panels around the whole garden?? Thanks
Useful information!!! Thank you. I think one has to actually have built a fence to appreciate this video. The thing is, in my limited experience, even if your site looks level, it's usually not, so one is, ultimately either high or low. Low rots the wood. High has wide open gaps ( as you've said ) But again, that slope isn't easily perceived until a level line of panels is installed...then a 'problem' appears.
Put that video on your future list. I would like to see your thoughts on how to construct a fence on a steep slope.
It's on the list and I will get started on it after I see more viewers requesting a sloping hillside fence building project.
@@gregvancom
Thanks, I'm interested as well.
I would be interested as well in this video. Your videos are well made and always informative.
@@gregvancom interest from this guy and my 4 boys as well.
I too am on a quest to figure out how to have a level fence with my back yard slope for days!
I would love a video on how to build these: both of those last 2 you discussed. With the last option - if we're using sheep/goat panel, would it just be possible (and would it be reasonable) to set a very narrow, level trench and backfill to create the stepped up, stepped down method? Or is it simpler to go with the approach to slopes you first mention?
Thank you for your useful video. Please make a video of how to build a fence on a shopping ground.
Educational and impressive. Question if you don’t mind. Installing pickets should you start on higher or lower ground?
Either and don't forget sometimes you can start in the middle. It's something I would measure and see what works best.
Hi Greg, I really enjoy how thorough your videos are from fences to roofs and more. I am building a privacy fence soon with 8ft long 2 3/8in galvanized posts (2ft+ buried) and was curious what your opinion is on the best method for longevity and strength. Would you reccomend "floating" the post to height after pouring the mixed concrete, or set gravel in the hole, then post, then concrete? I plan to have the concrete above grade and sloped away as you recommend. I'm just torn on whether floating the post is better than setting it on gravel first. My understanding is that the post inserted into concrete will have more surface area of the post to "grip" in the event of high winds since the interior and exterior of the post will be in contact with the concrete. Also I will be digging the holes 6in deeper than the post will be set (e.g. 30in hole for 24in of post in-ground) and dig out a "bell-shape" to prevent the concrete from lifting. The bottom of the post will be encased and theoretically unlikely to rust as it won't be in contact with soil (4-6" of concrete below the bottom of the post). Any thoughts on that method? Is the gravel method necessary for drainage? I'm curious if I have any blind spots, or I could do something in a better way. Thanks again and keep up the great work with these videos!
If you're using the gravel for water drainage, then it would depend on your soil and freezing ground temperatures. I'm still not sold on using gravel in areas with high moisture content in soil where the gravel could act as a water collector. Let me know if this didn't answer your questions.
@@gregvancom Thanks for the reply! I'm in the southeastern US, near the coast so rarely freezing temps but we get a decent amount of rain. In your experience or opinion, is there any downside to "floating/inserting" the glavanized post down in the concrete with several inches of concrete encasing the bottom (bell shaped hole)? I feel like it'a a good option but could be overlooking something. Thanks again for your insights and all your videos!
I’m trying to figure out how to cut lattice at a slope for sealing the underside of a deck. Is it the same method you showed here?
For the most part yes. You can use wood stakes also that would be driven into ground first and then attach lattice to stakes or a board that would attach to stakes that would run parallel to ground like a 2x4.
A full video would be amazing!!
I'm hoping to have a few more viewers like you showing interest before making it and thanks for your vote.
Yes, I would like to see a video on how to erect a fence with the space below to account for building a fence on a 16 degree slope for privacy
What is vertically level? I thought level was perfectly positioned horizontally and plumb was perfectly positioned vertically. Is vertically level a brand construction term?
Yes, a term I picked up when dealing with a variety of different trades, managers and owners. Plumb is vertically level.
@@gregvancom As a carpenter of 52 years experience, I've never heard vertically level. This is what I was taught as a carpenter apprentice: "A vertical framing member, such as a post or stud, is "plumb" when it's perfectly straight, and when a horizontal member has no tilt, it is "level." Never taught nor heard of vertically level. I guess anything can be anything if you decide to accept anyone's wish to change the definition of construction terms. Sounds like a transgender term for construction!!
hey I would to see a video on how to build a panel fence .
thANK YOUU
Noted!
I need to straighten a sloped garden, but my fence panels are like this at 5:43
If I add soil at the bottom of the slope, the soil will sit higher then the bottom of the fence panel that is lower. What would you recommend?? Would I have to build a retaining wall a few feet away from the fence panels around the whole garden?? Thanks