My friend, you are a genius. Our old 106 had the notorius 'alien' sounds in the background and the 'hanging' note. Ran the test procedure and it pointed to be chip #1. Got my techie guy at work to de-solder and remove chip #1 then I followed your instructions to the letter. 2 days later, all the coating came off easily, techie re-soldered it back in place and IT ALL WORKS PERFECTLY!!! Thank you so much for sharing your skills with us all. Kind regards; Paul
I just tried this on a failing chip and it seems to be working very well now! To those interested, it took nearly three days in the acetone to really loosen the resin for my chip. Thanks for the excellent video tutorial! You saved me a bunch of money!
Great info! I just decoated six chips, 3 working and 3 with sticking notes, and ended up with 6 working chips. the chips that were working had a thin layer of silicone rubber covering the components to protect from the coating that they figured out would become conductive or capacitive DO NOT SCRATCH THE BLACK PATCHES ON THE CHIPS! They are precision laser trimmed (one or two tiny 1mm black lines partially across them) resistors. Note that I soldered IC sockets so I could plug in the chips.
I put a thin coat of clear silicone rubber on the component side (green) of one of the chips, let it dry, and then left it in the Juno for a day to bake. No problems so I coated the remaining chips last night and will reinstall them tonight and make the adjustments as described in the service manual. EVERY JUNO 106 OWNER SHOULD NOW ABOUT THIS FIX!!!!!
The uncoated chips have been running in the Juno for three days now and sound great! Make sure that the printed resistors (black patches) are clean. I used my finger nail to scrape off the remaining coating. I removed the coating by soaking them for 24 hours, removing what came off easily, and then soaking them again for a few hours at a time until they were clean. A pickle jar works great for soaking them!
EXCELLENT information. I purchased two repro chips for my Juno, and unfortunately just snapped the old ones off as I figured they would make good keychains. However, I have a friend (locally) with 4(?) dead/dying chips, and am going to recommend trying this out before we buy any repros. Thankyou for sharing!
Over one week of the 106 being constantly on and the chips all sound like new! I'm going to put a thin coat of clear silicone on one of them to make sure that it doesn't affect the circuit. The silicone is just to make sure that there isn't any chance that any changes in humidity will affect the circuit.
I just got around to attempting to fix a fuzzy chip on my Juno-106 today after having it like that for six years. I'll let you know what happens. I'd love for this to work and add a comment accordingly so that people will believe this works. You deserve credit for this one for taking the solution and making it easy to find on the internet.
I didn't use an Exacto knife at all. I soaked for 4 days, pulled the loose stuff off. Soaked another day, pulled the loose stuff off, etc. It's taken about a week doing it that way. No scraping or cutting necessary.
@@JMLRecording I didn't have a problem with it. On the other hand, it didn't actually fix what was wrong with the bad one, but now I have sockets installed and can easily replace old ones with clones as I need. So it doesn't fix everything.
Us Test Mode to determine which 80017A chip is bad. Power the Juno up with the KEY-TRANSPOSE button pressed. Now press Poly1 and Poly2 together so that both buttons are lit up. That puts the voice chips in rotary mode so that each time you press a key, one chip will be activated after another. The display will show which chip 1-6 is activated. 1=IC13, 2=IC11, 3=IC9, 4=IC7, 5=IC5, 6=IC3. Lots 41C and 42B are known to have problems which also happen to be the ones that were bad in my units.
I used an Xacto knife and magnifying glass (lupe) to CAREFULLY clean the coating from the laser cuts in the resistors. I didn't dig the blade into the cuts; just scraped the blade over them. Some of the chips had to be soaked for 24 hours, cleaned the coating that came off easily, and then soaked for another 24 hours. The acetone only seems to affect the coating; not the bakelite that the actual ICs are made of or the green coating on the chip which is actually a circuit board.
4 days with the 106 on constantly, testing it several times a day, and it sounds great! If it continues to work perfectly by this weekend, then I'm going to put a thin coat of silicone on one of the chips and then test it again for a few days before I coat the others.
i tried this on a 106 my bandmate got for $45 with a very very quiet #4 voice chip. took longer than as advertised for the coating to dissolve (soaked for about 6 days), but i got it all off. put the chip back, mounted the circuit board, etc. and it worked! for a little while. i left it on for a while, then went back to play it, and it sounded just as busted as it did before. it was worth trying though. time to save up for a new chip!
The resin coating tends to stick to the tiny (1mm) long laser cuts in the printed resistors on the chip so make sure that they are clean. They are coated with a thin plastic coating (lime green) and the laser cuts go through the plastic coating and through the printed carbon which forms the precision resitors. DON'T SCRATCH THEM but make sure that the laser cuts are clean. My cleaned chips sound perfect even without adjustment! I'll put a thin coat of silicone on the chips this weekend.
Just wanted to let you know that I did not give up yet. I did save the chip and continued to soak it in the acetone for a few more days, and successfully got most of the resin off of it. Now, hopefully I can find information on improvising new pins so I can go on with the project. Until then, courage.
so that was last night. today i ran the 106 in test mode and it turns out that it is actually a different voice chip which is broken now. so this did work!
That is probably a layer of silicone rubber which were on the the good 80017A chips that I decoated. The ones that didn't have the silicone under the coating were bad until I cleaned them.
54A. 2 out of 2 repaired. Though I accidentally snagged a jumper off of one, and now it resonates wildly. Will ramcur the only remaining one I have, and dnaab the rest. :D Turns out 5534 was working.
To prevent humitity from affecting the 10 laser trimmed printed resistors. Probably not necessary but silicone won't turn conductive like the original coating did.
Hello, I am a technician and have recently started to remove the coating from 80017A voice chips. I have found that a number of the chips have fractured internal solder joints. If you remove the coating from a chip and it still doesn't work you may want to get a tech (with a high quality soldering system) to re-solder the connections of the ICs and possibly the terminals on the chip.
Ties in with my reply to Joshua Lutz below... A few years ago someone suggested the resin becomes conductive. However this isn't actually the case; it expands and lifts the chip pins off a few microns, enough to cause them to become intermittent. When you remove the resin, the agitation of the process is enough to reseat the pins and are liekely to work again, but not always the case, hence the 60% success rate. What you actually need to do after removal of the resin is to re-touch the pins of the chips with 60/40 solder (don't use lead-free, it doesn't mix with the 60/40 it was originally soldered with).
@nokbient : regarding being worried about it drifting out of tune in the future due to removal of the resin / coating... While it may drift a little, the only thing it will drift on is VCF tuning, and only so slightly. As for VCA, only so slightly. The VCF tuning would likely not be detectable by the human hear as it is a filter, not an oscillator we are talking about. The VCA drift would amount to much less than 0.25dB! Which you would never hear or detect. The DCO is stable and independent of the VCF/VCA chip / circuit.
In my case, it took at least two days for the 80017A. It took 4 days for MC5534A. After the first two days, I scraped the three sides of each MC5534A then I kept them in for another two days. They come off incredibly easy if left in acetone for enough time. You will want to replace the stupid pins on these ceramic boards and its a good idea to put female headers on the mainboard. 80017A has regular 2.54mm pins but MC5534A uses 2.0mm pins so be careful :-) Also, I went 100% clean in terms of removing all visible remaining resin between the chip pins with a small needle. I didn't desolder the chips from the ceramic boards and clean underneath them. I had a small problem with one of the tree MC5534A ceramic boards. a surface mount component (capacitor or resistor I really don't know) the one closer to the pins, came off since apparently it was stuck to the resin much better than it was to the ceramic board. I can not find any information anywhere what this component is since I want to replace it. The one came off appears to not have any metal pins on it so I need a new one. I might remove the same component from another MC5534A and check with a multimeter but I would rather learn what it is from someone who knows what it is or even better from a schematic or some document. I would really appreciate any help if anyone knows what this SMD component is.
100% pure silicone rubber (sealant) is non-conductive. I've used it in high voltage circuits for TVs. The bad chips that I cleaned didn't have a black silicone coating inside but the ones that were good (I cleaned off the coating anyway) all had a thin layer of black silicone. Either Roland discovered the coating problem and solved it by using silicone under the coating or the company that actually made the chips took a shortcut and didn't apply the silicone layer before the external coating.
The coating IS the problem. Apparently, it semi-shorts out the circuitry which is precision tuned with laser trimmed resistors. I've successfully repaired 12 chips by CAREFULLY cleaning all of the resin off the circuitry; especialy the 10 laser trimmed resistors (dark rectangular patches) where the resin tends to stick in the tiny laser cuts that tune the circuit. I wish I could post a link to an image of one of the chips that I repaird. The good chips had a thin layer of black silicone inside.
Why did you pull he MC5334a chips? The six 80017A chips are what will cause random static and random stuck notes. When mine were sticking, the sound was very quiet. It wasn't like holding the foot pedal down.
I stripped the polymer off and my 800170 came back to life. I had to give it a second pass and dig out from between the IC pins a little better, but it worked. Now to find out why my VCF freq slider is not working anywhere below 1.5. Any tips?
This is an amazing fix will be trying this on my faulty juno voice tonight!! Thanks so much for putting up this tut greatly appreciated. I actually bought a replica chip about 6months ago and still havent got round to fitting it as was concerned about calibration problems. How did you find removing the actual chips was it tricky did you use a solder sucker?? Also can you possibly tell me how you got it into "voice number mode" on the dispay. I can't remember how to do it?!
Pics of the Laser trimmed resistors in the images folder of my red928 site called WholeChip.jpg and LaserCuts.jpg. I can't post the URL so you'll have to type it in the browser's address bar.
How do you know what's wrong with these chips? Do they overheat during use? The plastic package covering the chips is not the best heat contactor. Do these chips have defects in silicon that becomes worse and worse during use? I think someone will need a very expensive piece of equipment and a good reference datasheet to determine what's wrong with these components... I hate disposable electronics...
Hi! My 106 seems to have a problem with the filter resonans after I had new voice chips. I can't seem to get all six voices to track even with keyboard tracking when the filter is self-osclating. If I set it to poly 2 mode and only use one voice at the time i am able to play simi tones with it, but when it is in poly 1 mode and I play more then one voice, the voices doesn't tune up together. Do you know how I could fix this?
A few things that are suspect: 1) acetone evaporates very quickly, maybe it would be a good idea to used a closed container instead of an open cup (even in a coffee canister) 2) Probably not a good idea to touch acetone soaked chips with your barehands
Due to very strict laws restricting the sale of 100% acetone in my country, it is impossible for me to get a hold of enough to go through the whole fix. Can anybody think of an alternative to acetone for removing the resin off the chips? Maybe a heat gun or traditional nail polish remover + isopropyl alcohol afterwards?
Well, I was scraping the resin off tonight and a pin broke off. So now I have to abandon this project and just buy a new chip, I suppose. Thank you very much for this info, anyway.
I am asking the same question MarbleMad had... Does anyone know if this works long term? I did it to 2 chips on an mks-30 and it worked.. I am trying to sell it. Would it be a good idea to strip the other 4? I would hate to sell it and have another chip crap out a week later, but if this fix causes other problems down the road I wouldn't be comfy with that either. I am an electronics tech so I'm not really worried about damaging anything good on removal.
Hallo Nice and helpful video you did. :) Maybe you can help me with troubleshooting. All six voices of my 106 work fine. The only thing that's irritating is that when the VCF frequency is down (ENV up) e.g. for a bass sound, every sixth key pressed plays the sound as if the frequency knob was up (like open filter). I gave it a short check having detected that only happens when voicechip #2 is adressed. So might that chip be faulty or is it something about filter circuitry referring to some voice path? Unfortunately I do not know how exactly voices/filters etc. have been routed internally. :( I would appreciate any help. Thankies and greets :)
D'you think it's worth giving all your chips a chemical peel as a preventative measure or do you lean more towards the "If it ain't broke, don't fix it", philosophy?
I've watched a bunch of these videos in hopes someone explains WHY removing resin solves the problem. I'm sure it's legit but how on earth does removing the resin fix an electronic issue?? Makes no sense
A few years ago someone suggested the resin becomes conductive. However this isn't actually the case; it expands and lifts the chip pins off a few microns, enough to cause them to become intermittent. When you remove the resin, the agitation of the process is enough to reseat the pins and are liekely to work again, but not always the case, hence the 60% success rate. What you actually need to do after removal of the resin is to re-touch the pins of the chips with 60/40 solder (don't use lead-free, it doesn't mix with the 60/40 it was originally soldered with).
@@LEKProductions Welp, this is by far the most helpful response I've seen to date. Thanks so much for taking the time. I hope everyone reads this who is doing the job. The guy who made this video should add this knowledge to his video description as well, excellent. Thank you!!!!!!!!
My friend, you are a genius. Our old 106 had the notorius 'alien' sounds in the background and the 'hanging' note. Ran the test procedure and it pointed to be chip #1. Got my techie guy at work to de-solder and remove chip #1 then I followed your instructions to the letter. 2 days later, all the coating came off easily, techie re-soldered it back in place and IT ALL WORKS PERFECTLY!!! Thank you so much for sharing your skills with us all. Kind regards; Paul
I just tried this on a failing chip and it seems to be working very well now!
To those interested, it took nearly three days in the acetone to really loosen the resin for my chip.
Thanks for the excellent video tutorial! You saved me a bunch of money!
Great info! I just decoated six chips, 3 working and 3 with sticking notes, and ended up with 6 working chips. the chips that were working had a thin layer of silicone rubber covering the components to protect from the coating that they figured out would become conductive or capacitive
DO NOT SCRATCH THE BLACK PATCHES ON THE CHIPS! They are precision laser trimmed (one or two tiny 1mm black lines partially across them) resistors. Note that I soldered IC sockets so I could plug in the chips.
I put a thin coat of clear silicone rubber on the component side (green) of one of the chips, let it dry, and then left it in the Juno for a day to bake. No problems so I coated the remaining chips last night and will reinstall them tonight and make the adjustments as described in the service manual. EVERY JUNO 106 OWNER SHOULD NOW ABOUT THIS FIX!!!!!
The uncoated chips have been running in the Juno for three days now and sound great! Make sure that the printed resistors (black patches) are clean. I used my finger nail to scrape off the remaining coating. I removed the coating by soaking them for 24 hours, removing what came off easily, and then soaking them again for a few hours at a time until they were clean. A pickle jar works great for soaking them!
EXCELLENT information. I purchased two repro chips for my Juno, and unfortunately just snapped the old ones off as I figured they would make good keychains.
However, I have a friend (locally) with 4(?) dead/dying chips, and am going to recommend trying this out before we buy any repros.
Thankyou for sharing!
Over one week of the 106 being constantly on and the chips all sound like new! I'm going to put a thin coat of clear silicone on one of them to make sure that it doesn't affect the circuit. The silicone is just to make sure that there isn't any chance that any changes in humidity will affect the circuit.
I just got around to attempting to fix a fuzzy chip on my Juno-106 today after having it like that for six years. I'll let you know what happens. I'd love for this to work and add a comment accordingly so that people will believe this works. You deserve credit for this one for taking the solution and making it easy to find on the internet.
how did it work and is it still working?
I didn't use an Exacto knife at all. I soaked for 4 days, pulled the loose stuff off. Soaked another day, pulled the loose stuff off, etc. It's taken about a week doing it that way. No scraping or cutting necessary.
Could this possibly damage the components?
@@JMLRecording I didn't have a problem with it. On the other hand, it didn't actually fix what was wrong with the bad one, but now I have sockets installed and can easily replace old ones with clones as I need. So it doesn't fix everything.
Us Test Mode to determine which 80017A chip is bad. Power the Juno up with the KEY-TRANSPOSE button pressed. Now press Poly1 and Poly2 together so that both buttons are lit up. That puts the voice chips in rotary mode so that each time you press a key, one chip will be activated after another. The display will show which chip 1-6 is activated. 1=IC13, 2=IC11, 3=IC9, 4=IC7, 5=IC5, 6=IC3. Lots 41C and 42B are known to have problems which also happen to be the ones that were bad in my units.
I used an Xacto knife and magnifying glass (lupe) to CAREFULLY clean the coating from the laser cuts in the resistors. I didn't dig the blade into the cuts; just scraped the blade over them. Some of the chips had to be soaked for 24 hours, cleaned the coating that came off easily, and then soaked for another 24 hours. The acetone only seems to affect the coating; not the bakelite that the actual ICs are made of or the green coating on the chip which is actually a circuit board.
4 days with the 106 on constantly, testing it several times a day, and it sounds great! If it continues to work perfectly by this weekend, then I'm going to put a thin coat of silicone on one of the chips and then test it again for a few days before I coat the others.
i tried this on a 106 my bandmate got for $45 with a very very quiet #4 voice chip. took longer than as advertised for the coating to dissolve (soaked for about 6 days), but i got it all off. put the chip back, mounted the circuit board, etc. and it worked!
for a little while. i left it on for a while, then went back to play it, and it sounded just as busted as it did before. it was worth trying though. time to save up for a new chip!
The resin coating tends to stick to the tiny (1mm) long laser cuts in the printed resistors on the chip so make sure that they are clean. They are coated with a thin plastic coating (lime green) and the laser cuts go through the plastic coating and through the printed carbon which forms the precision resitors. DON'T SCRATCH THEM but make sure that the laser cuts are clean. My cleaned chips sound perfect even without adjustment! I'll put a thin coat of silicone on the chips this weekend.
Wow, you blinded me with science! Awesome experiment!
Just wanted to let you know that I did not give up yet. I did save the chip and continued to soak it in the acetone for a few more days, and successfully got most of the resin off of it. Now, hopefully I can find information on improvising new pins so I can go on with the project. Until then, courage.
so that was last night. today i ran the 106 in test mode and it turns out that it is actually a different voice chip which is broken now. so this did work!
That is probably a layer of silicone rubber which were on the the good 80017A chips that I decoated. The ones that didn't have the silicone under the coating were bad until I cleaned them.
This method worked for my Roland MKS-30 .... Thank you sp much...!!
54A. 2 out of 2 repaired. Though I accidentally snagged a jumper off of one, and now it resonates wildly. Will ramcur the only remaining one I have, and dnaab the rest. :D Turns out 5534 was working.
To prevent humitity from affecting the 10 laser trimmed printed resistors. Probably not necessary but silicone won't turn conductive like the original coating did.
Hello, I am a technician and have recently started to remove the coating from 80017A voice chips. I have found that a number of the chips have fractured internal solder joints. If you remove the coating from a chip and it still doesn't work you may want to get a tech (with a high quality soldering system) to re-solder the connections of the ICs and possibly the terminals on the chip.
Ties in with my reply to Joshua Lutz below...
A few years ago someone suggested the resin becomes conductive. However this isn't actually the case; it expands and lifts the chip pins off a few microns, enough to cause them to become intermittent. When you remove the resin, the agitation of the process is enough to reseat the pins and are liekely to work again, but not always the case, hence the 60% success rate. What you actually need to do after removal of the resin is to re-touch the pins of the chips with 60/40 solder (don't use lead-free, it doesn't mix with the 60/40 it was originally soldered with).
@nokbient : regarding being worried about it drifting out of tune in the future due to removal of the resin / coating...
While it may drift a little, the only thing it will drift on is VCF tuning, and only so slightly. As for VCA, only so slightly. The VCF tuning would likely not be detectable by the human hear as it is a filter, not an oscillator we are talking about. The VCA drift would amount to much less than 0.25dB! Which you would never hear or detect.
The DCO is stable and independent of the VCF/VCA chip / circuit.
Thanks! I'm gonna try sourcing used chips since I can't really afford 6 D'nabbs in one go.
I will be trying out acetone on mc5534 today.
In my case, it took at least two days for the 80017A.
It took 4 days for MC5534A. After the first two days, I scraped the three sides of each MC5534A then I kept them in for another two days.
They come off incredibly easy if left in acetone for enough time.
You will want to replace the stupid pins on these ceramic boards and its a good idea to put female headers on the mainboard. 80017A has regular 2.54mm pins but MC5534A uses 2.0mm pins so be careful :-)
Also, I went 100% clean in terms of removing all visible remaining resin between the chip pins with a small needle. I didn't desolder the chips from the ceramic boards and clean underneath them.
I had a small problem with one of the tree MC5534A ceramic boards. a surface mount component (capacitor or resistor I really don't know) the one closer to the pins, came off since apparently it was stuck to the resin much better than it was to the ceramic board. I can not find any information anywhere what this component is since I want to replace it. The one came off appears to not have any metal pins on it so I need a new one. I might remove the same component from another MC5534A and check with a multimeter but I would rather learn what it is from someone who knows what it is or even better from a schematic or some document. I would really appreciate any help if anyone knows what this SMD component is.
I would be great if you could do the video in HD as it is rather fuzzy and hard to see details.
I read a post in a forum from 2009 saying this video helped, it's a very old video
100% pure silicone rubber (sealant) is non-conductive. I've used it in high voltage circuits for TVs. The bad chips that I cleaned didn't have a black silicone coating inside but the ones that were good (I cleaned off the coating anyway) all had a thin layer of black silicone. Either Roland discovered the coating problem and solved it by using silicone under the coating or the company that actually made the chips took a shortcut and didn't apply the silicone layer before the external coating.
The coating IS the problem. Apparently, it semi-shorts out the circuitry which is precision tuned with laser trimmed resistors. I've successfully repaired 12 chips by CAREFULLY cleaning all of the resin off the circuitry; especialy the 10 laser trimmed resistors (dark rectangular patches) where the resin tends to stick in the tiny laser cuts that tune the circuit. I wish I could post a link to an image of one of the chips that I repaird. The good chips had a thin layer of black silicone inside.
Will this procedure help the MC5334a as well?
Where can I get broken unstripped 800017as?
Why did you pull he MC5334a chips? The six 80017A chips are what will cause random static and random stuck notes. When mine were sticking, the sound was very quiet. It wasn't like holding the foot pedal down.
Thanks for the video. That's great. What did you find over the long haul? Still working? Any more insight you have would be great.
This is great stuff. I will try this on two chips I have...
I stripped the polymer off and my 800170 came back to life. I had to give it a second pass and dig out from between the IC pins a little better, but it worked. Now to find out why my VCF freq slider is not working anywhere below 1.5. Any tips?
awesome video
This is an amazing fix will be trying this on my faulty juno voice tonight!! Thanks so much for putting up this tut greatly appreciated. I actually bought a replica chip about 6months ago and still havent got round to fitting it as was concerned about calibration problems. How did you find removing the actual chips was it tricky did you use a solder sucker?? Also can you possibly tell me how you got it into "voice number mode" on the dispay. I can't remember how to do it?!
great work
Pics of the Laser trimmed resistors in the images folder of my red928 site called WholeChip.jpg and LaserCuts.jpg. I can't post the URL so you'll have to type it in the browser's address bar.
How do you know what's wrong with these chips?
Do they overheat during use?
The plastic package covering the chips is not the best heat contactor.
Do these chips have defects in silicon that becomes worse and worse
during use?
I think someone will need a very expensive piece of equipment
and a good reference datasheet to determine what's wrong with these components...
I hate disposable electronics...
so you just take the resin coating off with that chemical solution, and that's it? no need to repair the chips inside? is it that simple?
I'm a bit reluctant to take off the resin coating as I'm sure it was put on for a reason. Worried about it drifting out of tune in the future
Hi!
My 106 seems to have a problem with the filter resonans after I had new voice chips. I can't seem to get all six voices to track even with keyboard tracking when the filter is self-osclating. If I set it to poly 2 mode and only use one voice at the time i am able to play simi tones with it, but when it is in poly 1 mode and I play more then one voice, the voices doesn't tune up together. Do you know how I could fix this?
Thank You!
A few things that are suspect: 1) acetone evaporates very quickly, maybe it would be a good idea to used a closed container instead of an open cup (even in a coffee canister)
2) Probably not a good idea to touch acetone soaked chips with your barehands
Did this ruin the glass you soaked the chips in?
Due to very strict laws restricting the sale of 100% acetone in my country, it is impossible for me to get a hold of enough to go through the whole fix. Can anybody think of an alternative to acetone for removing the resin off the chips? Maybe a heat gun or traditional nail polish remover + isopropyl alcohol afterwards?
Thanks for sharing. Time to fix mine and get my daft punk on!
Well, I was scraping the resin off tonight and a pin broke off. So now I have to abandon this project and just buy a new chip, I suppose. Thank you very much for this info, anyway.
I am asking the same question MarbleMad had...
Does anyone know if this works long term? I did it to 2 chips on an mks-30 and it worked.. I am trying to sell it. Would it be a good idea to strip the other 4? I would hate to sell it and have another chip crap out a week later, but if this fix causes other problems down the road I wouldn't be comfy with that either. I am an electronics tech so I'm not really worried about damaging anything good on removal.
Seven years later, does it still work?
Hallo
Nice and helpful video you did. :)
Maybe you can help me with troubleshooting. All six voices of my 106 work fine. The only thing that's irritating is that when the VCF frequency is down (ENV up) e.g. for a bass sound, every sixth key pressed plays the sound as if the frequency knob was up (like open filter). I gave it a short check having detected that only happens when voicechip #2 is adressed.
So might that chip be faulty or is it something about filter circuitry referring to some voice path?
Unfortunately I do not know how exactly voices/filters etc. have been routed internally. :(
I would appreciate any help.
Thankies and greets :)
Calibrate the synth as per the service manual.
Didn't work for me. My pins fell off. The coating help keep the pins on the chip.
you definitely want to replace the stupid pins and also install female headers on the mainboard.
D'you think it's worth giving all your chips a chemical peel as a preventative measure or do you lean more towards the "If it ain't broke, don't fix it", philosophy?
@rolandsh1000
Awesome. Thank you. I'm going to try it out. Here's hoping it's years :)
......i think i love you....
I've watched a bunch of these videos in hopes someone explains WHY removing resin solves the problem. I'm sure it's legit but how on earth does removing the resin fix an electronic issue?? Makes no sense
A few years ago someone suggested the resin becomes conductive. However this isn't actually the case; it expands and lifts the chip pins off a few microns, enough to cause them to become intermittent. When you remove the resin, the agitation of the process is enough to reseat the pins and are liekely to work again, but not always the case, hence the 60% success rate. What you actually need to do after removal of the resin is to re-touch the pins of the chips with 60/40 solder (don't use lead-free, it doesn't mix with the 60/40 it was originally soldered with).
@@LEKProductions Welp, this is by far the most helpful response I've seen to date. Thanks so much for taking the time. I hope everyone reads this who is doing the job. The guy who made this video should add this knowledge to his video description as well, excellent. Thank you!!!!!!!!
@@JMLRecording I may do a video on my channel about this...