Ok worked on hundreds of these. 2 methods we used: open vise jaws about 1/2" to support the crank arm with someone holding the bike while you tap on the cotter pin. Other method is keep the bike in the repair stand and find a long pipe that'll support the crank arm so you can tap on the cotter pin. Park Tool did make a cotter pin press at one time but discontinued due to slow sales. Cotter pins for that bike should be 9 or 9.5mm diameter. When reinstalling, cotter pins face opposite direction so the line up. Good luck.
The real problem with these pinned cranksets is that your crank arms are never _exactly_ 180 degrees out of phase. They're always a fraction of a degree off of the diametrical opposite - say, 179.9/180.1 degrees.
I hate cottered cranks and will not buy a bike with one due to having restored many with them over the years. I do have a stash of cotter pins though because I destroy them when removing them typically and replacing them is a must. I unscrew the bolt till its flush with the pin at threads and then hammer that bad boy out with a heavy hammer and quick blow. I don't care if its destroyed. Typically I will just replace the cranks with a non cottered one over replacing the pins though if its a sweet high end bike in good shape. Cottered cranks are always steel and super heavy in my experience and just not worth having. If its a bike like you have and just wanting to make it ridable with spending as little as possible then the replacement pins come in handy.
Ok worked on hundreds of these. 2 methods we used: open vise jaws about 1/2" to support the crank arm with someone holding the bike while you tap on the cotter pin. Other method is keep the bike in the repair stand and find a long pipe that'll support the crank arm so you can tap on the cotter pin. Park Tool did make a cotter pin press at one time but discontinued due to slow sales. Cotter pins for that bike should be 9 or 9.5mm diameter. When reinstalling, cotter pins face opposite direction so the line up. Good luck.
Thanks for the help. They were hell getting out. But the first time is always a bear.
I used these a long time ago. I learned to NEVER reuse them, always fit a new pin and make sure it is tight before applying torque to the pedals.
Good advice. I bought new pins to install. Thanks.
The real problem with these pinned cranksets is that your crank arms are never _exactly_ 180 degrees out of phase. They're always a fraction of a degree off of the diametrical opposite - say, 179.9/180.1 degrees.
Neat to know. When I was growing up, I rode one of these for years. I was just happy it got me where I wanted to go. Thanks.
I hate cottered cranks and will not buy a bike with one due to having restored many with them over the years. I do have a stash of cotter pins though because I destroy them when removing them typically and replacing them is a must. I unscrew the bolt till its flush with the pin at threads and then hammer that bad boy out with a heavy hammer and quick blow. I don't care if its destroyed. Typically I will just replace the cranks with a non cottered one over replacing the pins though if its a sweet high end bike in good shape. Cottered cranks are always steel and super heavy in my experience and just not worth having. If its a bike like you have and just wanting to make it ridable with spending as little as possible then the replacement pins come in handy.
I didn't even look for replacement pins, thinking that no one made them anymore. Thanks for letting me know.