Відео

My Schwinn had wabbling bottom bracket Bearings ran dry & rusted.

I have an 80s Trek early hybrid type only made one year it's got oddball sizes like 130 mm dropout yet it came with 26-in rims I can't even fit a 1.95 tire but I'm going to go through with and fix it.

Appreciate that Ed

Tough break. Working on things like bikes takes patience and a good attitude; seems like you've got both in abundance.

You need a steer tube die but I'm thinking that might be hard to find if its not standard 1". I know a lot of these old English bikes had English standard threading. Good luck!

Im getting that book soon

You need the Park FFS-2, we used to use them all the time. Otherwise put the fork back in the bike and use an oversize long pipe to give you leverage. The metal is really quite soft. If you get it halfway straight you need to make sure both wheels are in the same plain so it rides straight. Put the bike upside down to check. Good luck!

Park makes a 4th hand tool that does that but I simply squeeze the brake arm and adjust the cable. I usually leave it just a tad loose so the barrel adjuster on the brake lever can be adjusted for the riders hand. Now on these brakes, we see a lot of times the brake arm pivots get corroded which makes it hard to adjust the brake springs so the pads aren't dragging on the rim. We lube the pivots and that usually helps. Good luck.

There's a surprising number of people out there restoring old bikes. It's a great hobby with a lot of benefits. Keep up the good work!

The real problem with these pinned cranksets is that your crank arms are never _exactly_ 180 degrees out of phase. They're always a fraction of a degree off of the diametrical opposite - say, 179.9/180.1 degrees.

I used these a long time ago. I learned to NEVER reuse them, always fit a new pin and make sure it is tight before applying torque to the pedals.

I hate cottered cranks and will not buy a bike with one due to having restored many with them over the years. I do have a stash of cotter pins though because I destroy them when removing them typically and replacing them is a must. I unscrew the bolt till its flush with the pin at threads and then hammer that bad boy out with a heavy hammer and quick blow. I don't care if its destroyed. Typically I will just replace the cranks with a non cottered one over replacing the pins though if its a sweet high end bike in good shape. Cottered cranks are always steel and super heavy in my experience and just not worth having. If its a bike like you have and just wanting to make it ridable with spending as little as possible then the replacement pins come in handy.

Ok worked on hundreds of these. 2 methods we used: open vise jaws about 1/2" to support the crank arm with someone holding the bike while you tap on the cotter pin. Other method is keep the bike in the repair stand and find a long pipe that'll support the crank arm so you can tap on the cotter pin. Park Tool did make a cotter pin press at one time but discontinued due to slow sales. Cotter pins for that bike should be 9 or 9.5mm diameter. When reinstalling, cotter pins face opposite direction so the line up. Good luck.

❤

Strange, it says made in Canada on the bottom bracket, its actually a 1989. Most of the bikes from that era were made in Japan. Canada seems a little odd but I do know that Raleigh's were made in Canada for a short time too. You can typically date Shimano derailleurs pretty easy. I see two of them just like this on ebay and both are asking $600. They are pretty good bikes from my experience. That blue and white combo is timeless, still looks great today.

Awesome, I need a E tricyle

Early 2000's bikes can be restored for extremely cheap. Modern 8 speed drivetrains and paint you can both get basically for free if you know where to look, and both can make the bike look and feel like a new.

Down tube is also buckled as well just as long as it's not buckled up badly it can be repaired, BTW: The original fork could be straighten out as well by an well trained mechanic who will also be equipped with the proper tooling. I'm one of those bicycle mechanics who will have the know how and all the proper tooling to repair this bicycle.

Jolly good show from the uk .

RJ is a national treasure 😊

I just started working on this exact bike. Kicking my ass. Mine has a big old head light, generator not included.

Beautiful bike! It looks like the downtube is buckled, no? The fork looks OK to me but the downtube looks severely bent, probably due to an accident as you said. Edit: never mind, noticed the fork bend as well. I corrected such a fork bend on my '69 Schwinn Collegiate after an accident with a long piece of PVC pipe.

Time taken to recondition an old bike isn't lost without trace. You need to actually enjoy the journey. Plenty of satisfaction to be had getting things sorted. A good starting point is being somone who tends to keep used but good and not chuck everything out plus has a talent for reconditioning. Lots of kit will come good with a bit of patience. I realised how the industry was over 20 years ago and picked up a fair quality of parts to keep my bike going. Still end up picking up the odd thing here or there but being fairly self sufficient is kind of nice too.

I noticed the bent fork right away, it can easily be straightened with a Park Tool FFS-1 Frame and Fork Straightener but not sure if it's worth it. I have one but I haven't used it in years. Good luck

😊👍

Belongs in a museum or you could sell as an antique to buy bike parts you need for other bikes. 😊😊😊

I put that SA on a 64 Schwinn Speedster and a 1980 Collegiate. Very nice action, real solid amd precise.

You don’t want chain guard anyway!

Pathetic

Probably a soak in oil would restore the ratchet, failing that, remove the lock ring and the cogs separate from the hub, grasp the hub in the vise and unscrew, no special tool needed, the freewheel can be reassembled if theres no alternative

I searched for the video mainly to see HOW THE CABLE RUNS AROUND THE DERAILLEUR! and you show clearly the high low! I don't know about others? But I really have no need to see that clearly! please why and where can I find a video showing "CLEARLY" The route of the cable?!!! Or how it is supposed to run around the derailleur?

Well done. Of course those in the Netherlands don’t need a helmet. Has anyone seen how crowded many of the bike lanes are. Not all, but many. If they rode any slower they would be stopped. 😂

Just bought those Microshift Twist Shifters. They do look kind of cheaply made.

What adaptor kit did you use to get from 8mm to 6mm? How did that rear shock end up working?

Acera m3020 ?

How did u get it off the bike?

I seen a Chinese guy take one off with a quill stem and handlebars. It’s on UA-cam, was pretty ingenious

Bros voice is smooth like butter

Fork looks slightly bent back.

Thank you 👍

When I remove a freewheel on an old wheel like that I stick the too into a vice then sit the wheel down onto the tool and engage it, then grab the wheel on each side and with a quick push and pull turning the wheel to the left, it will pop loose then you can just spin the wheel until it comes off the freewheel.

God bless you

👏👏

Serious hack job. What model Centurion? Good bikes!

Tube was removed rim tape is probably loose and just moved

I have this bike, what free hub do these use?

Wow, did he pay you to do that? I would do a bike like that in that condition only if paid and paid well, like $150 plus parts and then It would still be a hard sell, I would have to be very bored lol I do enjoy tinkering with bikes though like you so I do get it. The problem with a low end rusty bike like that is there is no value in doing it for resale. A bike like that in my area you would have to give away to get rid of it. Its unfortunate but that is how it is here these days. I have a hard time selling a good clean decent newer bike. I thought for a minute that was one of those old Shimano Positron shifting bikes, ever see one of those? Shimano made those for like one year. The free wheel was in the crank not the rear wheel so the rear cog was like a fixed gear and the bottom bracket free wheeled so you could shift while not pedaling as the rear cog always moved. The shifter cables were stiff so the housings would bust open as they aged. Super strange set up and I've only seen two or three of them, rebuilt two of them but parts are super hard to find, mostly the cable and housings is what goes bad. If you never heard or seen one with Positron shifting, google it. Its cool to learn about and interesting. It was kind of a cool concept but they started them out on the lowest end bikes which they learned was a bad idea, always start at the top and move it down as once people think its cheap it can't move up to be high end, its much easier to move high end products down the lineup. I rebuilt a late 70s Vista road bike last month which was probably a slight step up from that bike. It was brutal, I relaced the aluminum hubs to a set of aluminum rims I had lying around, 27 inch 36 hole as I hate steel rims with a passion plus they were toast. The bike turned out nice looking but to me was horrible to ride. I hate the brakes and the shifting it was just horrible to me. I did put a nice set of wider drop bars on it so it had a pretty good feel but overall it just was not something I would even consider riding, way too old school for this old guy. I do hate to see bikes go to the dump so I just gave it away to a friend. All I really had in it was tires, tubes, those bars and I guess the rims which I would never need for anything anyway. Got rid of some parts, killed some time and moved a bike along and kept it out of the dump. #win in my book. I should have started a bike youtube channel years ago, oh well.

This little bike is adorable! Great work!❤

Dirt bag had a flat, repaired it and left their trash for someone else to deal with.

Dirt bag had a flat, repaired it and left their trash for someone else to deal with.