The truth about unwanted FROSTING or CHALKY painted miniatures!
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- Опубліковано 10 вер 2024
- KIMERA KOLORS: www.pegasoworl...
Painter: RICCARDO AGOSTINI / raminiatures
Frosting/Chalkiness is when you get unwanted white spots on the areas you paint and maybe even uneven coating. It usually happens with matte paints, so it's a relatively common happening with Kimera Kolors if you are used to paint in a certain way. This video will help you avoiding it and explaining you why it may happen to you. This is part of a series of Video Pills that will help you getting the best out of your Kimera Kolors sets.
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Thanks, this is a huge problem that I kept running into and led me to give up on a bunch of paints and half-painted models. This is one of the most useful painting tips I've learned yet!
Oh this is great to read! I’m glad it helped. Please help share it out as many people struggle with this without knowing it!
I have to come back to this video every few months as I keep running into these issues. Thank you!
I’m glad it keeps being useful 😆
Wonderful!! That’s what I needed the most when I started out.. thank you for covering such important topic so beautifully! Salute Maestro Agostini🙌🏼🌞❤️
You’re a legend Ricardo
Thank you 😊
Very helpful Riccardo! Especially liked that you showed everything you did on the wet pallet.
Thank you!
Great content! Hope you will do more of these!
We will, thank you! We hope the channel will grow over time
👍👍 Haven’t tried Windsor Newton matte medium before…bottle on the way - will know tomorrow🤔
PS +1 on the BenQ light. We dont use ours for painting, but as backlights for large monitors. For painting we’ve got quite a few LED 5K-ish floodlights mounted in cheap work light fixtures (HomeDepot/Lowes) in a circular pattern overhead shooting down on the painting work areas (and airbrush booth) at differing angles to pretty much eliminate shadows..if we want…can turn off individual lights to control directional lighting (shadows). We also use the LED floods for continuous lighting (indirect, masked & filtered) while photographing miniatures, sometimes a little fill flash (DSLR - yeah old fashioned but it’s hooked up through Capture One so that makes it easy for monitoring shots in real-time).
As always, YMMV. Just sharing. Nothing more. nothing less.
I love "hands-on" videos. Even though this one was a bit too long. Nice work Riccardo.
Thank you, we tried to cover all the possible problems to give people a good resource in case this happens to them.
So if I paint a basecoat of a matte colour black, it will fix this problem?
Most of the time yes. It also depends a bit on how you paint, how many layers and how big of a value jump you are doing. But for the most part yes
Thank you! I really love Scalecolor for some reason, but I keep running into this problem. As a beginner, I was so lost that I started using gloss medium as a workaround. I've been wanting to get a few sets from Kimera, but I've been afraid of encountering the same issue.
Great. Now I know, what I have done wrong. I guess I must wait until I get my base set if I want to do thin glazes!
Thanks, this tutorial will work with any type of matte paint in any case!
So to fix the ultramarine blue you would paint a lighter opaque base color first then apply the blue so the value jump isn't as much? Would multiple layers over a matte black base work as well?
Yes I would do the first thing you said. The second would work too but it requires many many layers that it would be a chore
Very good video
Looking forward to the video about airbrushing! Tend to avoid airbrushing Kimera Kolors, which is a bit of a shame.
really really helpful！！！
How can the flow improver be matte? It doesn't contain any matting agents. Unless it only contains things like solvents... Vallejo flow improver is glossy. I'm very interested if the winsor is matte. But how could it be? :o
It's not a matting agent, it just doesn't alter the properties of the paint. So if you use it with Kimera Kolors you'll still get a matte result.
Il Flow improver di windosor & newton è usabile anche per layering?
Funziona al posto dell'acqua, per cui ci fai un po' quello che vuoi. Io lo uso spesso per quasi tutto
@@kimeramodels grazie!
Ciao, non sarebbe meglio mettere almeno i sottotitoli in italiano nei vari lavori che presenti e presenterai ?Così da far capire anche chi non mastica l’inglese? Grazie e buon lavoro
C'è la traduzione automatica di youtube come funzione. Noi fisicamente non riusciamo a farli per via del tempo richiesto, ma dopo un po' youtube li aggiunge automaticamente. Se guardi il video precedente basta che premi su sottotitoli e poi su impostazioni scegli "traduzione automatica" e scegli l'italiano. Ho fatto la prova, c'è qualche piccolo errore ma si capisce. Su questo video la funzione non è ancora disponibile ma lo diventerà a breve, ci impiega un po' youtube a fare la traduzione automatica.
What is the best medium to avoid generating brush marks?
Brush marks don’t depend much on medium and more on brush control or the amount of overlapping layers that you do in different directions
@@kimeramodels Maybe I expressed myself wrong, what I'm looking for is a medium to help the paint self-level more.
I understood, it’s not about the medium though. It’s about how you use the brush. Unless you paint in oils, those are easier in this regard
Hi ! Would not a simple layer of canned matte spray over the black primer be enough to deal with the issue ? It seemed an easier process. Thank you for this video !
Also, any advice about how to have a better coverage when base coating with the phtalo green ? Having issues with this color
Matte sprays are fine, i use to do it with the airbrush eventually. My problem with can spray is that they tend to leave grainy results depending on the humidity of the room so I end up avoiding it. But results are very similar in any case. All the other methods though are because you may want (and it's especially my case) some parts to be more matte and other be more satin, so all these methods give you control.
As for coverage, just add a bit of white in the mix or black, depending if you want the color to be light or dark and you'll be fine.
Thank you! Very helpful video! I encountered something similar with Scale 75 Tesla Blue over already glazed other blue tones. It was really frustrating since it is such a nice and vibrant colour.
I also found that Kimera Warm Yellow clumped really badly while strongly diluted with water to use it as a glaze so no smooth surface was achievable. I had this issue with some other kimera colors which unfortunately let me avoid them all the time. Do you have an advice on that as well? Your paints seem to get so much positive reviews so I am asking myself why I can’t seem to get them to work properly.
It is the same kind of issue I think as i strongly diluted the warm yellow in the last part of the video. Or it is that you didn't shake them well, as they are super pigmented and the pigment can fall on the bottom of the bottle. Do not glaze over glossy surfaces with matte paints, that's the rule of thumb. Make either the paint satin or the surface matte. I hope it helps.
Thank you a lot, I will keep it in mind :)